L'Ami Louis? (Paris)
 

A comment on another thread prompted me to think about this place of which I have heard such raves over the years. I would love to hear from people who have eaten there. What did you eat? How was the overall feel of the place? Total tourist scene? Approximate price? And is there anything (their style of roast chicken?) offered here that cannot be found at similar quality someplace else in the city? Bottom line is that I am wondering if I should make the effort and spend the money to dine there at least once. Thanks!

anyone??

My husband and I had friends who were friends with the L'Ami Louis owners. When we went the 2nd time to Paris, they called their friends and made a reservation for us.
We were there in the fall, I had the roast chicken and fries.. I honestly cannot say if it was the best I have ever had, everything in Paris thrilled me and I loved everything. It was very expensive, the food was good,and there was a lot of it! the people were very nice to us.
That is all I can say~
I hope you go to find out for yourself :)

Since there doesn't seem to be a lot in the way of first-hand knowledge I'll offer a hunch. I did find a few reviews: One in Pudlo Paris, another, Fodor's online, and a third, very brief, on a French-language Web site which suggested that the average price of dinner with drinks was 150 to 175 euros per person. I suspect you can eat as well or better in a number of Paris restaurants that charge less.

And I do mean with extremely pleasant atmosphere and good service. (Mind you, this is the opinion of an unreconstructed contrarian who rarely spends that kind of money for a meal.) Some people are attracted to certain establishments because of the "buzz" and there's nothing wrong with that. But what's "in" changes very, very quickly in Paris. If one hears of a place more than once or twice, it's probably already "over" or about to be.

Thanks to both of you. Dave, I know the price is very high. I am curious mainly because RW Apple of the NY Times often rhapsodizes about this place and he is a real food lover not interested in any buzz. I have heard about it for years and it is very hard to get a reservation so I wonder, who is filling all the tables and why are they filled at those high prices when It is far from a trendy place. Many cookbooks and food writers talk with awe about their roast chicken and potato/garlic cake so I am just wondering if it is worth it to put it on my list for next fall. Thanks!

I haven't been there, but if you want it, its worth it.

I was puzzled by the relative lack of reviews, finally just noting that the name of the restaurant is Chez L'Ami Louis. So I'll look again under the Cs, and also inquire of colleagues if any of them have ever dined there.

All right, one very, very quick review from a colleague, a Paris old-timer, who acknowledges he ate there "years ago."

His verdict: "terrific." Definitely have the foie gras and the chicken.

He also says it may be hard to get a reservation if you ask with an accent. So if you decide to go, have the concierge call.

There are so many wonderful restaurants in Paris, I'm not sure I'd get all bent out of shape if I missed this place. It's not like people are jumping on a bandwagon here or on any other travel forums...

Thanks to all. I know there are loads of fabulous places in Paris; I was just interested in first hand reviews of this place since it gets so much write-up in the food press. Would like to hear if people think it was worth the money and the hassle of reserving. I should say I am not too interested in multi-Mich-starred places; prefer to have a more relaxed atmosphere such as L'Ami Louis and many others offer. I am more interested in the food itself; less so in the atmosphere and level of service. The price is very, very high; just wanted to hear if people think the place is worth experiencing it once. It would turn me off if I learned that most of the other diners there are tourists. I belive this to be true at dinner, but not at lunch, but would love to hear more about it. RW Apple, who is a real food lover and very knowledgeable about Paris, celebrated his 70th birthday here and the dinner was chronicled in Gourmet magazine a few months back.

ekscrunchy,

>>"I am more interested in the food itself; less so in the atmosphere and level of service. The price is very, very high; just wanted to hear if people think the place is worth experiencing it once. It would turn me off if I learned that most of the other diners there are tourists.<<"

If you are mostly interested in just the food and not the atmosphere and level of service I am curious as to why you would be so turned off if you found tourists there? Any tourist who can afford the place would certainly be a credit to his species. Aren't you a tourist? If you ever do want "atmosphere" try McDonald's at the "Grand Arch" at La Defense or MCDonald's at the corner of rue de Commerce and Blvd.de Grenelle....really.

Anyway, I hope you have a great Paris experience in my second home town.

Larry J

Larry: Why, on the basis of my comments, would you suggest that I visit La Defense and in particular, their MdDo's? If a place is really good, and offers excellent food of the region, it will be patronized by locals as well as visitors. In my experience, places that are very high in price and dependent on tourists for the majority of their clientele are places that I might prefer to avoid. Your comment "...any tourist that could afford the place would be a credit to his (!!) species.." or some such...what does that mean? Credit to being a tourist? I asked for opinions from people who have dined at L'Ami Louis..care to offer a comment on your experiences there? Or perhaps on another place of that ilk: Chez Georges, Benoit (pre- or post-Ducasse)?? Paris is your second home so perhaps you can point us in the direction of some good, casual eating spots with excellent regional food. Can your offer some helpful hints on dining in your second home? Thanks!

As promised, here are the observations of a collague, who last ate at L'Ami Louis two years ago. I have edited out some remarks of a personal nature.

"This is the place to go if you want a great
feeling for old Paris, your one fling of a trip here. Everything is big,
including the portions and the bill. We tried to be abstemious at lunch and
ordered two first courses for three people, foie gras and escargots. The
one order of foie gras consisted of three thick slices. The single order of
escargots was a dozen snails. Both were over-the-top excellent. For the
main course, the two of us ordered the roast lamb for two and our friend
ordered the grilled veal. The waiter asked us if we wanted the rib or leg
portion; we chose the rib. The order was enormous, a large amount of meat
on tiny ribs, the skin crispy and golden, and the meat simply delicious,
seasoned with, I think, just salt, pepper and thyme. We could not
finish the plate and our friend could not eat all of his veal chop, which I
tasted and found to be cooked just right, veal being the only meat that I
find best when cooked through with no rareness. The accompaniments were
potatoes, two ways. First, there was a plate of potatoes fried in some
lovely fat - duck, goose or whatever - in a black cast iron frying pan, a
signature dish of L'Ami Louis, and a plate of thin shoestring pommes
frites. We had two bottles of the best burgundy I could find at even close
to a reasonable price (about $50 a bottle) and only our friend could manage
dessert. The bill totaled 373 euos for three people.

WOW!!!!! Thank you, Dave. Sounds like I just may have to save up and take the plunge next time..if I can get a table!!

The comments are from at least two years ago. I think you should try Chez L'Ami Louis for yourself and decide. Seriously what is considered excellent to another person may be true for you too or you may disagree. It's all a matter of personal opinion. For example, I didn't mind eating at Le Coupe Chou but others elsewhere said it's a tourist trap, management is rude, blah blah blah. On the other hand the same people complimented Le Vieux Bistro saying how great the food is, calling it one of the last 'vrai' bistros remaining, etc. I ate there and thought it was just okay.

Yes, thanks, Franco. I agree. It is very hard to know the tastes of someone else recommending a place to eat and how those tastes merge with one's own. But L'Ami Louis has received so much attention from food writers who I respect. That, together with Dave's friend's description of his meal there is so compelling that I cannot stop fantasizing about it. It is firmly on my list! I googled the place and came up with more accolades...sounds like a not-to-be missed classic Parisian experience. I will let you know after I visit..not until next October, I am afraid! Chez Georges is another one that gets cited as a great Parisian bistro; surprisingly, it gets little attention on this site...wonder why? I just may have to give that one a try as well!

Last March we tried to get reservations for Sunday dinner. The concierge from the Hotel Meurice tried to reserve a table for 2 one month in advance and all that was available was 6pm or 10pm....neither times were good for us and we ate elsewhere. So we are going to Paris again in March. What is the trick to getting dinner reservations there???

Wow...amazing that even the Meurice could not get you in at your preferred time, and that long in advance. Wish I knew the secret..maybe someone will help out here.

Those times, 6 p.m. or 10 p.m., may indicate two dinner seatings, four hours apart, so no one who comes at 6 p.m. is rushed. If this is indeed what they're doing, there would be no other starting time in the evening. In that case, glsebs experience wouldn't necessarily indicate extreme difficulty in obtaining a reservation. But if you object to dining with other visitors to Paris, you wouldn't want to accept a 6 p.m. seating.

What's the problem with the first seating? ekscrunchy's a visitor too.

Yes, I am thinking lunch might be better. I have lots of time before my trip so will investigate how to secure a reservation at a later dinner time, if possible. Your posts are still making my mouth water; check out what some others say by googling if you want to salivate!

I'm sure the food is fine, but clearly no bistro food is worth that kind of money. I think you are very mistaken by assuming this is not a trendy place. Of course it is, they couldn't charge those kind of prices otherwise. No, typical neighborhood people aren't going to be dining there because it's too expensive. Typical tourists won't either because it's too expensive, but wealthy American tourists will. I read one French review that said it was wealthy Americans' idea of a typical French bistro. It's where Chirac took Clinton when he visited, for example. You yourself said you've read rave reviews of it by NYT, etc., so you know it is trendy--it's the kind of place recommended by Forbes, and those kind of publications.

It's sort of interesting that Gayot said the food was good but that one of their "things" is serving humongous portions (which I find rather repellent in itself as a gimmick), but they frown upon sharing, and another one of their "things" is rude and brusque service.

Interesting comments. But I take issue with one thing: Just cause it was written up by Times correspondent RW Apple does not mean it is "trendy." I would hardly call places like Danube and Le Bernadin (in NYC) "trendy" for example. But they both have amazing food and are patronized by both locals and tourists who are willing and able to spend the big bucks. (I use NYC as a reference cause I live here and I love both of these places). RW Apple is such a gourmand that I thought his choice of the place for his 70th birthday might reflect favorably on the place. Patricia Wells, who lives in Paris and writes on food for the International Herald Trib, also comments in mostly positive terms about the place in her classic book, Food Lover's Guide to Paris. I respect her very much. The price sounds crazily high, although it is apparently mitigated by their use of quality ingredients and huge portions. I am still wildly curious about the place. Would you not assume that Chirac would take Clinton to a place with wonderful food and that he, Chirac, enjoys?

I guess we can understand your wanting to dine at one particular restaurant. But you make it seem like the end all and there doesn't seem to be that you have other choices in mind. Perhaps this is incorrect to assume. But it just seems that way. I'm not a foodie but I'd be open to other suggestions rather than to stick with just this restaurant.

I think you misunderstand me. I am not set at all on this place; just wanted to hear reports from those who have been there. I know the city has loads of fabulous places to eat, as I have had many many wonderful food experiences here over the years. Just had my interest piqued about this particular place and wanted to hear comments. I have disputed the negatives which have been posted by people who have never been to the place. Closer to the time of my visit I will decide where to eat....may have to give this place a try! And yes, I do plead guilty, I am food-obsessed!

Schrunchy's original post asked if the restaurant was a "total tourist scene." A 6 p.m. seating would be. Is there anything wrong with that? Not necessarily, though it can be quite nice to dine among French people, too.

I have eaten at Chez L'Ami Louis three times.

The food is absolutely wonderful and the signature dish is really the foie gras.A single portion of three thick slabs previously described by an other writer are enough for 4 people. The toasted baguette slices that are served with it come stacked about a foot high.

Whatever they serve is; the best , the biggest and just plain entertaining.

If you go in winter you will discover that the maitr'd will take your coats and literally throw them up onto racks on the wall.This is not Taillevant.

This is the kind of place where when my party was admiring some just in season cepes at the next table...the people at the next table seeing our interest sent some over to our table.

In summer it is half American but at other times it is mostly locals.

A writer mentioned that the concierge at the Meurice said he could only get 6 or 10 o'clock seating. The concierge was not truthful. You can not be seated here until after 8PM. The staff has their dinner before the patrons and finish at eight.

Go with the proper atitude and you will find the ultimate old fashioned, slightly seedy but absolutely marvelous restaurant...you will have a wonderful time at L'Ami Louis.

Stanley, thank you! I have put it at the top of my list! How long in advance does one need to reserve in October, do you think? Is it really that much of an ordeal to make a reservation?

We have never had any problem but why not make a reservation as soon as possible.

They won't forget you.

October is mushroom season. Ask for the cepes. Probably not on the menu.

I'm just curious as to why the prices are so high for this "old fashioned, slightly seedy" restaurant. As someone wrote it's not Taillevent. At least Taillevent is a Michelin starred restaurant that has beautiful surroundings and doesn't throw your coats against the coatrack.

The prices are not as high as they sound.

A portion of the foie gras which as I remember was a year and a half ago, about 35 euros. Certainly very expensive...but...this is the best foie gras anywhere and it served the 4 of us. 9 euros each. Not expensive.

It is like that with most things. But you must be knowledgeable and willing to order accordingly.

It is not haut cuisine but it appears on many foodwriters list of favorites for some good reason.

That may be fine for an appetizer you split 4 ways, but what about other dishes? Are you suggesting that one can split an entree four ways, or take food home in a doggie bag? I bet. It is Rudy Maxa's favorite restaurant, also.

People go here because it is written up (which is why it is so contradictory for ekscrunchy to want to go there exactly for that reason and then say it is not trendy), and the food is good, but every publication that writes it up calls it very expensive, so it clearly is by most standards.

Even Forbes said that the food was good but the prices put it in the bracket of Le Grand Vefour or Guy Savoy, but with less comfort and far inferior service, but maybe the movie stars in there will may you feel your 50 euro plate of asparagus is worth it. he he

I believe it was Calvin Trillin who wrote the article on it for Gourmet, and he did make it seem very inviting. Perhaps it is more "comfort food" than Grand Vefour, where I had a lovely "splurge" lunch but also where I probably won't return?

Huh? To pay the prices of a Grand Vefour or a Guy Savoy yet receive inferior service and sit in uncomfortable surroundings not to mention the tossing of the coats? To each his/her own, but if I choose to pay that much money the dining experience should be good all around. And, no, I still wouldn't feel justified in paying for that 50 euro plate of asparagus just because some French movie star may be dining there at the same time as I am.

I don't think it is about the "tossing of the coat" or even the price.
There are some people who have eaten at all the Big Name restaurants, who have done the 7 course, wonderful meals and who just like Really Good food and can afford to spend a lot on it regardless of the preciousness of the room - or lack of.
There are all sorts of budgets..some people go with money just for food, some with just for shopping and some are just happy to be there and stay in a budget hotel and eat crepes every day.
It all depends on the Traveler. Obviously, there are enough people who love eating at L'Ami Louis that this is not a problem.
Scrunchy- if you know anyone who speaks fluent French or better, if you know anyone who IS French, have them book the reservations now.
It worked like a charm for us and we had no idea at the time that it was necessary..( Our French friend just said, let me call my friend and get you a table..so my husband said ok. We didn't even know about the restaurant before that LOL)

I ate at the famed L'Ami Louis last spring and I must say I was sadly disappointed. I had such high expectations (informed by people like R.W. Apple and some other respected food sources). Unfortunately, I found L'Ami Louis to be an "institution," resting on its laurels. We saw several "beautiful people" and tv stars. The wait staff paid attention to these people and not to my party. The food is exceptionally expensive and is really not that remarkable, other than the enormous portions you get. The chicken is definitely NOT the best in the world. Judy Rodgers (at Zuni Cafe in SF, CA) destroys L'Ami Louis in the roasted chicken competition. Thomas Keller's roasted chicken at Bouchon in Yountville is also better than the chicken I had at L'Ami Louis. I WILL say that the snails were quite incredible...doused in garlic butter. The foie gras portion was huge, but was not the best I have had.
The atmosphere/feeling is a bit like Peter Luger's in NYC, but much smaller. With all that Paris has to offer in terms of food, I cannot say I would recommend L'Ami Louis.

My wife and I ate lunch at L'ami Louis 3 years ago. Our concierge could not get us a dinner reservation during the week even many weeks in advance. He called when we were in Paris to check again but no dinner reservations were available but we got a lunch reservation. We also ate at Taillevent and it was incredible but a completely different experience. We have eaten at many fine restaurants such as Le Bernadin, Le Cirque, Daniel, Peter Luger's and enjoyed them but also enjoy a liverwurst sandwich and plate of cheese, onions and crackers at McSorley's. Lunch was not touristy at all and the service was somewhat brusque. They certainly did not fall all over you, but the food was excellent. A few months before we visited Paris the NY Times Sunday magazine had a small column in which 5 famous chefs named there favorite restaurant meals and Wolfgang Puck said the roast chicken at L'Ami Louis. We had the chicken and it was the best I ever had. The pate was delicious and a huge portion. The waiters warmed up after a while. The chicken was roasted to order so we had about an hour to eat the pate and drink a bottle of wine. All in all it was an unforgetable experience and I would not visit Paris without a stop at L'Ami Louis. It is very expensive but it was vacation.

Hi all,

Here's a review from Forbes

http://www.forbes.com/2001/06/07/par...aurants_9.html

((I))

If you have not read the review in this months Vanity Fair, do so .... based on the colorful prose we will opt out from eating at Chez L'Ami Louis