I Left My Kids and Indulged in a Week of Pizza and Polizia: A Trip Report to Rome and Florence
 

My trip was from May 12-19th. I've mulled over writing a trip report, but my mind was blocked with the OMG of turning 30, DH deciding to quit his job and general kid chaos. The first two issues have been resolved (kid chaos is here to stay)...I can finally begin....

After my husband told me to leave the kids with him and indulge in a solo trip to Europe, I immediately came to Fodor's to celebrate.

Big Thanks to those Fodorites who helped me work out the details of this trip.

Another big thanks to the rest of you who write trip reports: reading your adventures motivated me to keep making my own.

A bit of background:

I'm obsessed with travel. I've been to Europe five times so far and I've visited Scotland, England, Amsterdam, Belgium, France and Italy, twice.

I'm a stay-at-home Mom to three children: daughter age 4 and twin boys, 1.5 years. Yes, my hands are always full. And yes, I live in chaos. :)

Motherhood is a blessing, and at times, a test of a woman's sanity. My three kids have driven me to the edge many, many times. I've avoided falling into the abyss of crazy, due mostly to my amazing husband Aaron, who sees the cuckoo in my eyes and steps in to rescue us all from the fallout.

I guess crazy was on my horizon however, because by the end of December, he told me I needed a week for myself to figure out whom that "self" was when not consumed with the demands of three loud, sticky children. After the shock and disbelief wore off, which took only a few minutes, I was far away in la-la land, daydreaming about airplanes and hotels and cafes...and freedom.

After a bit of help from Fodor's and my January issue of Smithsonian Magazine, which touted "28 Places to See Before You Die," I decided I would spend my week in Rome (because it's one of my true loves) and Florence (to see Botticelli's paintings in the Uffizi -- which Aaron has no interest in ever seeing.) Because my last trip to Italy included my daughter at 1.5 years old, my main goal for my upcoming trip was to experience all that I missed before: quiet cathedrals, quiet museums, quiet restaurants, slowly drinking coffee during a quiet morning......

After I picked my destination, I had four months to get my appearance together - and I looked a mess. I showered maybe once a week. Instead of changing clothes, they were rotated. No makeup. Hair brush - not likely. What was the point, really? Where did I go other than my daughter's preschool and Target? Italy became my reason to spend time on me. Funky sweats in Rome -- totally unacceptable.

Leaving my family was fun to daydream about, but the reality was, it was gut-wrenching. I had a lot of guilt. Friends and family asked why I chose a week in Europe as a break from my life. Why not start with a day at the spa? Or maybe a weekend away, close by. I never knew how to answer this question, since jetting away did seem slightly extreme for someone who never left the house.

Then while packing my bags, consumed with anxiety and guilt, I realized that only a plane heading to Europe, could take me away from my family.

And man, am I glad it did! :)

To Be Continued....

Hi mebe!

I was hoping you would have time for a trip report. I'm so glad you enjoyed your time away.

Johanna

I can't wait to read the rest! I do a girls trip each year so can understand the need for a break. Keep writing please:)

Yeah! Glad to see you back here. I do remember your original post.

I believe this is where your adventure began on Fodor's for folks that want the back story:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35096957

Hi Mebe - REALLY looking forward to this. Sometimes I want to get away by myself so I'm hoping you will inspire me!

I'm looking forward to your report!

Thanks Everyone!

I'm working on more (reviews of hotels, guidebooks), but it may take awhile...I still have to clean dishes, make lunch, entertain two boys who insist on climbing the furniture...

It’s nice to relive the memories of my solo life….

Cant wait to read more!!! Great start!

I’ve been blessed with two boys napping for 3 hours and counting…

I flew out of San Francisco on British Airlines, connecting through Heathrow. I sat in Economy Plus. This is my fourth flight with British Air and my second time in Economy Plus and my first time transferring through Terminal 5. No problems with the air line or Heathrow. I would fly with them again in Economy Plus, without a doubt.

I used Rome Cabs www.romecabs.com to get back and forth from the FCO. Excellent service, but pricy for one person. To my hotel it was 45E and my 5AM pick up was 50E.

About the Hotels:

I began and ended my week in Rome and spent the weekend in Florence.

In Rome I stayed at Teatropace 33
www.teatropace33.com

It’s a small hotel tucked down a tiny street, a few minutes from Piazza Navona -- excellent location. I had a single room for 115E. I expected the room to be tiny and it was. But it was clean, nicely decorated and had two huge windows which opened up over an inner courtyard. It was so quiet I could hear birds chirping and seagulls squawking (more about that later). I always felt safe. The walls were thin; the whole building could hear you call for help. As a side note, my bathroom window was next to another room’s window. When both windows were open, I could hear everything the two ladies discussed, including a concerned inquiry of “are you okay in there?” I did not hang out to hear the response.

Breakfast was brought to your room. You pick the time (from 7 to 9, I believe) and type of coffee, cornetto and yogurt you want. I LOVED THIS! My cappuccino was always tasty and the cornetto always hot and soft….yum. Plus they brought a small roll with cream cheese and chocolate spread. Every day should begin with spreadable chocolate.

I would definitely stay here again.

In Florence I stayed in Hotel Casci
www.hotelcasci.com

This place is highly recommended here and on slowtrav.com. The location is a few blocks up from the Duomo and a block from San Lorenzo. The Lombardi family is very kind and helpful.

This room was also a single, for 110E. It was covered with olive green paneling lit up with a florescent light that gave me a migraine. My only window was a glass door opposite the bathroom that opened onto a tiny terrace. Okay, I thought, keep the green curtain closed and just crack the door to listen to the church bells and rain. The sounds were magical, the smell was not.

Other than the color scheme and the stench of sewer, the room was fine. I got a double bed, the air conditioning worked and it was clean.

Breakfast was in a breakfast room and consisted of an assortment of cornettos, cake, toast, boiled eggs (soft or hard). It also had internet access.

I don’t think I would stay here again. I loved the family-friendly atmosphere, but not the location (I think across the river next time, but more on that later) and not my room.

I love to research a trip and I read many books, watched DVD’s, scanned the internet and lived on Fodor’s. Sadly, I didn’t make a list of all that I read or watched. But a few favorites were:

Simon Schama: The Power of Art – A series on PBS that you can rent through Netflix. I love this guy. He introduced me to Caravaggio, one my favorites.

I studied Italian using pod casts on Itunes. It was free and convenient.

And I would strongly recommend going to the Library and looking at books in the Kid’s Non Fiction section - especially the Eye Witness books. The history isn’t all that detailed and definitely watered down, but it does build a great foundation for learning about the Roman Empire or the Renaissance. And the pictures are always colorful and fun.

Hello mebe, I have thought of you and wondered if you had taken your trip. I am happy to see that you did. I always remember your trip report when you, your husband a your little daughter were in Italy. And then the joyous news of your twin boys! Noisy and bouncy I am sure but you are truly blessed.

Love your comment about the bathroom windows in your Florence hotel,lol.

Now, pizza I understand but the Polizia??? Did you try to pick one up (there was one in Rome I will never forget, sigh) or did you almost get arrested pray tell.

Thanks for The Power of Art suggestion. Sounds like a great preparation for a trip to Italy.

The polizia part has me interested too! Lol...

Hi Mebe, I'm on the edge of my seat waiting for more.

jdc

Sorry to hear that your stay at the Casci wasn't ideal. We stayed there several years ago and had a great experience, and and all white/neutral room, lol! Can't wait to hear more:)

This is great! More, please!

Hi mebe -

I also remember the report of your Italy trip when your daughter was younger. What a contrast this trip will be! Looking forward to more . . .

Come on, mebe!!!
WE WANT TO HEAR THE DIRT! (Polizia story)

mebe, as a mother of three also, I can understand why you sometimes need to get away (and I remember the days of not-daily showers!)

Looking forward to more.

You have a way with words and I would love to hear the rest... and I am also interested to hear about the polizia part....

Good for you and bless your husband for allowing you to go to Florence and Rome. We love those cities.

Your post reminds me of a card I sent to a friend today. Here's the webpage. http://anyhorribleoccasion.com/produ...products_id=40

I'm looking forward to hearing about your time in my favorite country.

For "allowing" her to go?????

Kattttttieeeeeeeee! Shame!

Before I forget, here is a link to a post that might help other Moms who need (or want) to leave their kids.

http://www.fodors.com/forums/pgMessa...reen_name=mebe

hnberlin -- I'll do my best to offer a little inspiration :)

LoveItaly and LCBoniti-- nice to hear from you both again! That was a great trip with my daughter. She doesn't remember a thing, lol.

To say the boys are bouncy is an understatement! They're more like leapers, and have the scared knees and bumpy heads to prove it. They are also absolutely sweet, worth every moment.

mms - I was also a bit disappointed after all the raving I heard. But like I said, the service was excellent, it was just my room. Oh well.

Okay -- about the polizia -- I did not get arrested. I'm obsessed with them. And one nice man gave me a lovely squeeze... but that happened in Florence, so you'll have to wait awhile for the rest of that story.... :D

Well mebe I am jealous as the bello polizia in Rome did not give me a hug, but I will share that story at the end of your trip report, lol.

mebe-great report so far.
I admit a certain admiration for the Roman polizia myself. On my last trip I saw one of these incredibly gorgeous men in uniform, in the <i>ladies</i> restroom of the Borghesi gallery nonetheless!

Sounds like a fantastic trip - I went to Florence for the same reason to commune with the Botticellis and Venus never looked so good. AND I loved the Simon Schama series - I really hope that people take a look at it, he's so good! Carry on....

I find this thread REALLY interesting and I am really looking forward to the next installment of the saga.
A question to the Editor of the forum, though: Is it possible to bookmark the thread and not the whole forum? Saying this because with the number of posts we run the risk of losing the header in the depth of the screens.
Thank you
Lp

Thanks for this report. I'm green with envy.


I second and third SIMON SCHAMA'S POWER OF ART. I bought them on Amazon and LOVE them. I loan them to everyone. A great gift for a traveler too.

Lualpa-if you click on the title of the thread it will take you to a page which is specifically for that thread. Then you can bookmark that page in your computer.

simple enough
dumb me
thank you

Lualpa,

Also, by responding in any way, you have bookmarked the thread in a sense. If you click on your screen name next to &quot;Welcome&quot; at the top of the page, all the threads to which you have added will appear in the left column.

Dear mebe,

What a treat to find your report today! I was definitely wondering how things went and if you'd have time to share with us.

Can't wait to hear more about your trip.

gruezi

mebe
I can really relate to your post. I went to Italy with my parents and grandma. My husband took off time to watch our two very small children. Besides the quiet I remember really enjoying eating &quot;hot things hot and cold things cold.&quot; Nor did I have to get up for anything when I started eating.

I had a third since them and three years ago we took all of them. Really fun too--but different.

Mebe, please come back with more. It sounds like a wonderful trip. Do you have the link for the report from your trip with your daughter? Thanks.

Since mebe is undoubtedly busy catching up with her family, here is the link to her other trip report (one of my personal favorites):

<font color="blue">Call Me Crazy - I went to Italy with a Toddler , and Loved Every Moment (almost...) A Trip Report: Rome and Tuscany</font>

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34802236

Thank you LC.

Thanks LC.

Yes, I am. But I'm not folding laundry and working on some more. :)
~M.

I am really enjoying this, thank you, mebe.

I've done this myself a couple of times, but your tale is an inspiration for more as it helps relieve some of the requisite guilt... :-)

Gruezi -- I've thought of you often -- it's nice to hear from you!

Kristina -- I was a big fan of your trip report to Rome and I remember your polizia in the bathroom! They can get away with anything, can't they? ;;)

Here is a bit more...

I left on the afternoon of May 12, the day after Mother’s Day. That morning, Aaron slipped in the kitchen and dropped Chase on his head. Chase cried; I held him, my hand against his growing bump, thinking, this is a bad omen. I will die in a plane crash and the 24 hour new shows will label me a bad mother; the ticker tape asking the audience: “what was she doing on a plane, anyway?”

At the airport, I was anxious and sat fidgeting with my bags. I was near a French mother and her little girl, about three years old and I actually ENVIED her. Really, I scolded myself; you want to sit on a 10 hour flight with a three year old? Look at the fatigue in that mother’s eyes. You want to exchange your worries, for hers? I heard a baby cry, and I looked around, my chest tight, biting my lips, wishing my tears away, missing the cries of my babies. Really? Are you serious? So I gave myself a pep talk: pull-your-sh*t-together. You can cry once you get to the hotel, but not a moment before.

On the plane I sat next a business man traveling to London. His company was working to make 2012 Olympics environmentally friendly. We began chatting and I did enjoy the mystery of a lone woman traveling to Rome. He asked if it was for business:
No, I said, for vacation.
(A little pause.)
Then he told me about a trip he took to Tuscany with his wife. So I gave up a bit of mystery and told him that I also went to Tuscany, with my husband and daughter.
(Another pause.)
My husband suggested I take a trip on my own to get a break from our kids; we have three now.
You have three kids? Wow, you look too young to have three kids.
Thanks. ;;)
(Slightly longer pause…)
You must not live close to family. Otherwise, they could watch the kids and your husband could go with you.
Actually, we live near both sets of grandparents. My husband thought I should go alone. And he wanted to spend more time with his kids.
(R-e-a-l-l-y long pause)
That’s…interesting…
And our conversation ended.

Heathrow was easy. We landed; I quickly departed the plane (another bonus to Economy Plus) and briefly waited for the train. Right before security they decided one of my bags was an inch too long, and they instantly checked it. I flew through security, found my gate, and waited for my plane. When I almost burst into tears, walking by a diaper dispenser in the woman’s bathroom, I reaffirmed my promise to “keep my sh*t together until the hotel room.” I then climbed onto the plane and fell asleep while flying over the cliffs of Dover.

We landed in Rome in rain. Worried and uptight Brits from my flight surrounded me. That used to be me. But now I was in Italy. And there is something in that Italian air… I watched group of Italian men, standing together in an intimate circle, talking and gesturing. They were middle aged and not handsome, but their hair was coifed just so, their olive skin silky smooth and their Italian flowed beautifully like lyrics to a poem… My chest was tight again, and I bit my lip again, but too late, my eyes flooded with tears -- of pure joy. Oh My God. I’m actually here. I’m back in Rome.

I picked up my checked bag. My driver, a lovely woman in a white leather jacket, greeted me with my name on a sign and a genuine smile. I fetched Euros from the ATM, sank into the backseat of her Mercedes and eagerly awaited the great adventure of driving to my hotel.

I love the confident ease that Italians have while driving. She sped down the road, whipping in and out of traffic, while chatting on her phones and reading her daily planner.

I asked her if she was from Rome, and she burst into another smile and said “Yes!” and asked where I was from. I told her California, near San Francisco, and she immediately apologized for not speaking to me earlier. She said “I didn’t talk to you because I thought you were English; your flight came from London. I don’t like English… or French. Americans I like because friendly.” Yes, we do tend to be friendly I said with my own smile, my eyes cast out the window, blissfully absorbing the gritty Roman streets.