Help me enjoy Rome (because I didn't on my first trip)
 

I have been to Rome before and after spending 3 weeks all over France and Italy, it was my least favorite place. I don't know if it's that we stayed in a bad location (can't even remember the hotel), or if I just don't enjoy walking and walking to see something. I hear so many wonderful things about Rome but I never saw it. It just felt like another big city to me. Paris on the other hand was great. We stayed in the St. Germain area and enjoyed walking around at night, stopping in for a bite to eat or to have a drink, and just basically taking in the ambience. Just sitting out on our little balcony was pleasant. I even enjoyed Athens! I'm hoping to find a location in Rome that will give me that kind of feel when I go back this Spring with my two girlfriends. Can anyone recommend the best "location" for us to look for a hotel in?

loves2sing

I think you should start by reading some of the reports of the fodor's members. There is so much information that's what I did long before my trip to Rome and I'll tell you my family and I had the most wonderful 5 days. Yes we did a lot of walking but it was great. I stayed close to the spanish steps but i also like the area around the trevi fountain and campo de fiori.

Trust me, I have read many, many reports. I usually spend months planning my trips. I don't know, maybe its just that it was near the end of my trip all over the French countryside, and then all though Tuscany that I just didn't enjoy the "city" at that point. But I was just hoping someone could recommend a particular area that might be a good fit for what I described.

I've only been to Rome once, but it is truly one of my favorites. Among London, Paris, Florence, Venice, Amsterdam and Dublin, it's right near the top at this point.

We stayed right around the corner from the bottom of the Spanish Steps (cute little boutique hotel...can't remember the name). This was a terrific site full of ambiance. It was also near lots of good shopping and dining. Thanks to taxis and mass transit, it was easy to get around.

In addition to enjoying the Coliseum, Trevi fountain, the Pantheon and the Vatican, I just loved wandering down the narrow streets and back allies anxious to see what was around the next corner. More than once, I was greeted by a spectacular piazza.

You're right....it might have just been the place you stayed and the fact that it was at the end of what sounds like a long trip.

I'm hard to please and have high expectations. Take another look....I think you'll like it.

Rome is my favorite place. I have been fortunate enough to spend 45 days there over 6 trips since 9/05. I can't help with hotel suggestions, as I like to stay in an apartment, and for what you describe you will want a balcony, but I think my usual suggestion of the Piazza Navona/Pantheon/Campo de' Fiori area is till a good one for what you want.

I always stay just off the Piazza Navona, because it's my favorite area. Yes, it's one of the tourist centers, but if you want to just sit in a cafe and enjoy people-watching, the performers, and the artists, then this is the place to be.

A very short distance east of the Piazza is the Pantheon. There's nothing quite like entering the square with the moon hanging in the sky over the Pantheon, and of course there are also cafes there.

In the other direction, just a very short walk south of the Piazza Navona, is Campo de' Fiori, with the market where you can find flowers, fruits/vegetables, etc.

Rome is a city of walking, and the Piazza Navona is in walking distance to a lot of what you will want to see. However, it's also close to several bus stops where you can get a bus to most other areas of the city. I've used the buses a lot due to my arthritic knees, but there's no doubt you still have to do a good deal of walking in Rome.

Thanks ambage, it looks like I'm going to have to give it another try.

Susan, I was thinking I might prefer an apartment as well, and a balcony would be great. There will be 3 of us, very outgoing women in our 40's, and we will likely want to hang out there at the end of the day just watching life or people go by. So it sounds like the Piazza Navona area might fit the bill. Do you have any apartment recommendations that might have a balcony with a good view?

I have never had an apartment with a balcony, but I have used www.sleepinitaly.com 5 times with great results and service. They have a lot of apartments in that area, so check out their listings in your price range. You should be able to find what you want.

I think you need to identify what were the reasons you did not enjoy Rome the first time. You indicate a "location" that gives "that" kind of feeling. Do you think others can correctly identify what "that" is?

If the factors contributing to your lack of enjoyment are present at a new location, you would repeat the same experience again.

When I am in Rome, I expect to experience something different from what I experienced in Paris. I would be disappointed in Rome also if were to look for the St. Germain experience.

My suggestions were not meant to imply that it would exactly duplicate the "feeling" of St. Germain. Rome is not the same as Paris. Having been to Paris a couple of times and thoroughly enjoyed it, I was suggesting something that I hope loves2sing would enjoy. I also like the St. Germain area of Paris. Actually, I loved Paris and was surprised how much more I love Italy, especially Rome. That doesn't mean I wouldn't like to go back to Paris! :-d

Greg, yes I do think people can figure out what "that" kind of feeling is since I posted some things that I liked about Paris, things that are often common to many European cities that I have been to and I was hoping someone who had been to both, and enjoyed the same "feeling" and experiences, might be able to direct me to a "location" in Rome, that might be comparable. I didn't expect anyone to take me so literal. I also didn't think that someone would assume I would actually expect my experience in Rome to be just like Paris. Sometimes in writing on here, we just have to do our best to describe our needs and wants in the best way we know how and hope someone understands our point. Fortunately, I found Susan's post to be not only informative but VERY "perceptive".

Many people don't "like" Rome, maybe you are one of them. Maybe if you stayed in Trastevere it would be more of a homey feeling for you but not if you don't want to walk and walk. Why don't you try a smaller town such as Assisi, Florence, Venice, Siena, etc.

loves2sing, don't feel you are alone in missing that "something" that lures a person to fall in love with Rome after a first visit. I missed it also.

I think the city planners forgot to include those little parks so plentiful in a city like Paris--a soothing oasis from all the sidewalks and piazzas of concrete and stone. A place to stop and take a relaxing break during a long walk.

While Rome has so many wonders to behold, it doesn't draw me back like Paris, London, Madrid or New York.

I hope you can discover the pleasures of Rome on your next trip. I will try as well ;;) Deborah

The first time I went to Rome I didnt fall in love with it either. We stayed outside of centre and had to metro in every day. The 2nd time we went we had an apartment on via Guilia right by Campo di Fiori and it was wonderful. I still love Paris/France more than Rome/Italy, but I did fall for Rome much more.

The Pantheon/Campo di Fiori/Piazza Navona area is great for cafes, wine bars, restaurants, walking etc.

I would encourage you to pursue the idea of renting an apartment in the Piazza Navona/piazza della Rotunda (Pantheon)/Campo de' Fiori area. Unfortunately I can't recommend one with a balcony that would work for you and your friends.

Here is a thread from about a year and a half ago that also asked for help enjoying Rome. I think it has a lot of good suggestions.
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35043773

As I said in my entries on that post, I enjoyed Rome during my first two trips there but really fell in love with the city during the third trip when we stayed longer and rented an apartment in the Jewish ghetto. I hope you have a similar wonderful experience

If you want to know why all roads lead to Rome and what it means to the West, I suggest Christopher Hibbert's eminently readable book "Rome: The History of a City". It helps make any trip to Rome interesting and moving, despite the crowds and the noise.

For apartments, check www.slowtrav.com as they have tonnes of apartment reviews and advice.

What time of year were you there? In midsummer Rome can be absolutely hellish. We always do Italy in May - when it's warm but not TOO hot - and walking all day is pleasant rather than a chore.

And a centrally located hotel is key - preferably near a beautiful piazza with fountain where you can sit and have a drink or dessert after dinner.

Agree, that until you figure out WHY you didn't like Rome it will be hard to be sure you'll enjoy it more.

hi loves2sing,

my reaction to florence was the same as yours was to Rome [and not many folks here dislike Florence!].

but I loved Rome and can't wait to go back.

you might feel more at home staying out of the real tourist centre like we did [by chance, as our firstw choice of apartment was withdrawn by teh owner] in an area called Monti, just north of the colosseum, which has lots of local shops and workshops, and isn't just for tourists. it was close to everything, but not too close.

we booked through www.italy-accom.com. who were really helpful. what I like about their web-site is that you can search by area, or no. of people, or no. of bedrooms, or terraces, etc. etc. they will tell you if your apartment has a view.

good luck,

regards, ann

PS - I just looked on their web-site and they have several apartments for 3 with terraces, some with views, some not. the cheapest was €138 per night.

Dear loves2sing,

I love France/Paris as well and I've accepted I'm just not an Italy person. I like a lot of things about Italy but I just don't connect to it in the same way I connected to Germany, France, or even my recent trips to Stockholm and Prague. I must admit, Rome is very grand and I don't know why it didn't knock my socks off like Paris does... but vive la difference, no?

So, I think going with different expectations is a good first start. Think about the activities you do enjoy regardless of what city you are in, be they art, food, strolling, drinking, people-watching. Then research for those activities and plan to do those.

The beauty of this being your second trip is that you can skip all the horrible crowded "must see" things from the first trip and just focus on what you really want to see - new this time, or best-loved from the first trip.

For instance, a favorite thing I did in Rome was see a fantastic Chagall exhibit. Not a typical "Rome thing" to do but I love art from that period and it was excellent. Also, I enjoyed the Borghese and would return there again. I love that you must book a time in advance and it doesn't get too crowded. Plus we had a wonderful tour guide there. Also, we visited the Pantheon 3 times - no lines, no tickets, so easy and so wonderful to see in different light.

Lastly, many on Fodor's view the hotel as a place to just sleep. I disagree, especially in a busy city like Rome. Find a hotel that is a bit of an oasis for you in a location you will enjoy...a place you look forward to spending a couple hours each afternoon regrouping and resting before the evening. Pick a convenient yet charming location. (We also stayed by the Spanish Steps and very much liked our location as we could walk just about everywhere from there.)

Think of this trip as a time to enjoy your friends good company and don't focus too much on the city. I bet you will have a wonderful time.

And, yes, summer is a bad time to go so avoid that if possible...

gruezi

My first time in Rome was in July, tacked on opportunistically to another trip. It was so crowded and hellishly hot that I left after one day, went to Venice.
Next visit was in October. The weather was delightful, crowds far smaller and I had done a little research to assemble a list of sites/activities with lots of time for wandering. This was an entirely different experience, and while Paris remains my favorite European city, I enjoyed Rome on this trip and would not hesitate to return.

Our first trip to Rome didn't really do it for me. We were on a 2 city trip; Paris and Rome. Paris is my favorite city and I was kind of looking forward to Paris the whole time that I was in Rome. I had a so-so experience in Rome. I gave it another chance the following spring due to a fantastic airfare on Eurofly and really enjoyed the visit the second time.

Both times we stayed in an apartment in Trastevere. I liked the location and apartment better the second trip, that helped. I had a better idea of how to get around. We mostly walked but used buses and trams when necessary. We involved ourselves by running in the fun run portion of the Rome marathon; it was great "fun". We took a half day trip to Ostia Antica which I recommend. We did walks recommended from the Lonely Planet guidebook (any guidebook would have done). We just relaxed more as we didn't have any other destination the second trip. I came away really enjoying Rome and understanding why people love the city. Paris is still number 1 on my list of cities, but someday I would like to return to Rome.

I'm curious why you're going back on your nextx trip if you didn't enjoy the city. Not every place suits every one. Why not pick somewhere different?

I had been to Rome 2 times and on the third loved it. I know that one key reason I didn't like it was because the two previous visits were during incredibly hot weather and among large crowds. I hate both.

Last year I went to Rome for New Years and spent 8 wonderful days there. The city was surprisingly crowded but certainly it wasn't hot. We had cold but clear weather every day. In Rome I really enjoyed walking in the historical district around and among Piazza Navonna, Campo Fiori and the Pantheon. All areas are close together. The Trestevere area is somethng like the Latin Quarter and very lively at night.

For the record I've never been a huge fan of Florence and I thought that might also be because of the heat when I visited. Well I went on this trip too and it still doesn't thrill me. Rome just may not be your town!

It’s good to hear that plenty of people didn’t “get” Rome on their first trip either. To those who asked, I am going to Rome again because I am going with my two friends who have never been before and they want to go, and I am a good friend :) We will likely fly into Rome (from Los Angeles) and we will probably spend a few days there before going onto Tuscany. I’m hopeful that Rome will be more enjoyable this time. In the past I went in late May and the weather was wonderful and this time will likely be late May as well.

As to ‘why’ I didn’t like Rome, I think our hotel location had much to do with it, which is why I posted with questions about the best locations. I’m pretty sure it wasn’t in one of those listed. I do enjoy a more leisurely style of travel and I also think we spent so much time rushing around to see the sites that I never got to just sit and enjoy the flavor of Rome. I think the Piazza Navonna, Campo Fiori or Trestevere areas might be the ticket this time.

Thanks for all the empathetic responses and all the wonderful suggestions.

I have only been to Rome once for 3 days, but I did like it a lot. We stayed just outside the centre, within 2 minutes walk of the Piazza del Popolo. The hotel was nothing and the street wasn't great, but to be within seconds of that great square and Villa Borghese was wonderful.

One thing we didn't was "too much". We wandered at a pace that suited us, knowing we could always go back

Someone mentioned here that Rome's city planners forgot to add little parks. I am hoping the poster was joking.

I also suggest staying in the Piazza Navona/Pantheon area. A good hotel with balconies (but I don't know about triples) is the Due Torri. You would have to ask for a balcony room.

I like the Hotel Portoghesi for location. I don't think there are any balconies.

One thing about Rome's balconies is that they are more likely to NOT look out on passers by or a street scene. Streets are generally narrow and buildings are ancient.

(Doesn't the del Senato have some balconies? People here love that hotel, although it is expensive.)

Outdoor cafes are, at least in Rome, a better fit for sitting and watching the world go by.


Rome is ancient, dirty, noisy, crowded and at the same time glorious.

I have never been there when I didn't walk more than in almost any other place. Public transportation is limited. Most of the city's treasures are uncovered on foot, in tiny piazzas and streets barely wide enough for a motor scooter.

Rome is cool, but it is also a challenge.

Have you been to the Borghese? Ostia Antica? On the Scavi tour? Done the Caravaggio churches?

I ask because those are some of the things that I love in Rome. Which sights did you see?

The del Senato is probably a little out of our price range, and with 3 of us we’ll probably opt for an apartment. And we don’t have to have a balcony if, as you say, sitting in café is a better way to enjoy the ambiance of Rome. I do enjoy that too. To be honest, I can’t recall all what we saw, it’s a bit of a blur, and it was also about 8 years ago. I’m sure we saw all the standard places, coliseum, forum, pantheon, Vatican, etc. Unfortunately my friends will likely want to see all those places as well. I’ve already questioned them about what their top priorities are so we aren’t rushing to see everything this time. But I will definitely take note of the places you suggested and add them to my own personal list.

loves2sing:
After any length of time in the French countryside and Tuscany any big city will come as a shock, specially Rome with all its hustle and bustle. It has happened to us every time we have come into Rome from a peaceful, relaxing place like Tuscany, and we love Rome. After a couple of hours, we are in Rome mood and ready to go.

We always stay in an apartment in the Piazza Navona area. Of course, we do a lot of walking but we do use the bus system very often. We have always gone in the Spring except once during a heat wave in June and weather does make a difference in the way you view a place.

Do give Rome another try.

tuscanlife, actually I was not kidding and to refresh my first impression I again looked at my "Streetwise Rome" map.

It would appear from the map and as I remembered, the parks in Rome are outside the area most tourists would be spending during a first visit. Between Villa Borghese and Giardino del Quirnale on the north and northeast of Rome center there are not any notable greenspaces until you arrive across the river to Gianicolo and the Vatican and then again not until the south at the Palatine area near the Colosseo.

My husband and I spent over a week in Rome during some beautiful late fall weather and we walked between all of these locations. I generally love large cities but I also enjoy finding those little neighborhood parks to relax and people watch within a city.

Just my opinion, s'il vous plait ;;) Deborah

Sorry if I am repeating, as I did not read the answers...I love Rome but Madrid and Berlin hold no interest to me. (And I used to be a Spanish teacher in another life...)

Everyone cannot love every place. Someone could tell me of their love for a place and it may help me to *intellectually* appreciate it, but that is not the same as having a feeling for it.

I heartily concur with the Navona recs....Guess I did read some replies, :) but maybe Rome is just not your cup of espresso.

hi loves2song, you have received many replies and I am not sure if you will have time to click onto my report, but I wanted to tell you that my second trip to Rome was VERY different than my first. I enjoyed it so much more. Here is the link if you have a second:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35104443

And please do enjoy, I sure did.
Best wishes, Tiff

p.s. Here is a little snipit, just in case you do not have time:

<i> I feel very indebted to our Fodorites, Statia, gracie04, and tcreath. When I did a text search for charming and quaint areas in the city center, I found a thread they all posted on. I had this vision and their description of the Via dei Coronari area of Piazza Navona was like a symphony to my ears. It was exactly what we wanted. So thank you precious Statia, gracie04, and tcreath. DH and I feel very grateful.

Staying in the city center as opposed to the outskirts provided me with an entirely different picture of Rome. While last time I liked Rome, very much in fact, this time I just fell in love with it.</i>

I just returned from my first visit to Rome and I loved it. I spent a week in an apartment in the old Jewish Ghetto, which is a very old part of the city that still retains a medieval feel.

I think the Ghetto is a great area to stay in- trendy but not flashy, all very hole-in-the-wall with no gelato or souvenir shops. There are some restuarants, a popular bakery, some little bars and art galleries in the side alleys. It's lively during the day (with more Romans than tourists) but relatively quiet at night.

The Coliseum, Forum, Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Campo di Fiori, and Trevi Fountain are all within very easy walking distance and there are plenty of bus stops nearby as well.

For background I love Paris too, although I can't say I like St Germain de Pres all that much. Rome is actually a pretty small city and very compact with lots of pedestrian areas. I found it quite relaxing and slow-paced although the timing of my visit (the week after xmas) may have something to do with that.

If you're going with two girlfriends I know I would definitely want to rent an apartment. I'd also recommend a slow paced itinerary, maybe plan one main site or museum a day with the rest of the day and night free to allow for some spontaneity. And maybe think about splitting up from your friends for a day or two to do your own thing. You won't have much fun if all your sightseeing feels like an obligation.

love2sing - Rome did not enchant me... I have only been once and have no &quot;draw&quot; to return. I fell in love with Italy though; so it was not that.

I did not care for the area I stayed in - the Spanish Steps so perhaps stay away from that area?

I will say, I went to Rome at the end of a long two week trip with my two daughters and dh. We had an apartment (which I love &lt;apartments&gt;) and we had wonderful experiences with Context Tours. I just did not &quot;love&quot; it. I was tired though and ready to be done. ? I also did not love Paris on my first trip ( we were there a short time, after huge travel delays cutting our time there to 1.5 days) - I just returned from 10 nights in Paris and am IN LOVE with the city.

Did you go last to Rome? (Just curious) -

Sorry not to be of more help. I loved Florence and know it is not a favorite on this board.

Well I love Rome and have always loved Rome, so I'm probably not the best person to answer your question. It feels nothing like any other place to me--except, strangely, Mexico City in some ways.

In any case, I just returned this afternoon from another nine thrilling days in the Eternal City. On this trip I was with my mother and aunt, both in their 60s. Taxis are a great option if trying to see everything is stressing you out/overtiring your group. When &quot;The Moms&quot; were getting kinda exhausted, I put them in a cab, sent them back to our apartment, which I had stocked well with wine, cheese, salamis, bread, etc., and let them relax on the terrace while I tackled more sights.

Also, Rome, to me, is a street-by-street city. Some people do not appreciate the grotty little medieval vicolos (I do) because, well, they're grotty. In the center, you might prefer an apartment on Banchi Vecchi, via Monserrato, via de Coronari, via Giulia, etc. All are quite beautiful. Has any Fodorite stayed by Piazza Colonna? I love that square. And the Minerva has a fantastic location too. If you come up with some possibilities, people here can better advise you.

In Rome I feel sometimes I've got to be tough. In fact I think one of the reasons I love it so is because it makes me strong. But for those who don't enjoy that, hop in a cab and take a load off occasionally.

And to repeat what others have said, maybe Rome just isn't your thing. I'm not all that wild about Florence and I love Ren art. Weird!

loves2sing--I see from your other post on Tuscany that you are thinking of going to Rome for a few days, then to Tuscany for the rest of a week-long trip to Italy with your friends.

I think you are more likely to be disappointed in Rome again if you only spend a short time there. There is just so much to see and do that the city tends to be overwhelming if you only have a few days. However, if you limit your sightseeing it could still be a relaxing time.

Apres_Londee--I was very glad to see you had a good time in Rome despite the last-minute complications. As you know, I also think the ghetto neighborhood is a wonderful area of the city

There's no law of nature saying you have to love Rome - or that if it's not for you, you ever will love it.

I've never desperately warmed to the place: apart from anything else neither the classical Romans nor the Counter-Reformation Catholic church used particularly sensitive architects, and Rome has the misfortune to have a wholly disproportionate amount of their overwrought creations on display still. But here are a few things I've done over the years that have got me especially loathing it. Avoid them, and you might enjoy the place a bit more.

1, 2 and 3. Visit it in the summer. Don't, ever. Its mediocre public transport means that without careful planning you're bound to be walking a lot - and a lot of Rome just isn't a joy to walk in.

4. Visit the Big Attractions, at any rate without careful planning. St Peter's is dull, oversized and bombastic, a full-scale Papal Audience just a bunch of people coming dangerously close to idolatry, the Vatican Museums a crowded nightmare, the Foro Romano a dull expanse of unshaded, boring ruins and the Colosseum just a big sports stadium without a decent game to watch.

On the other hand, St Peter's during the right kind of service (we sang First Vespers of Advent, presided over by the Pope), the St Peter's excavations and a carefully rationed two-three hours in the Museums after buying tickets online were all tremendously rewarding.

But Rome's great dirty secret is that it has some of the dullest remains of classical Rome anywhere on the planet. There are hundreds of more rewarding classical ruins elsewhere in Europe (and the Greeks built so much more pleasingly than the barbaric Romans): practically nothing can make the Foro Romano interesting if it's not your glass of liquamen.

5. Get taken round as part of a group

6. See things because you've been told you ought to, rather than because you really, really, want to. If you're iffy about the Baroque for example, Catholics' vandalistic destruction of decent Romanesque churches in the 17th century will horrify you

Is there a solution? Partly:

A. Winter's great, spring not so good (because the closer to Easter the denser the crowds), though March and October weather can be fantastic. Avoid the city from the fourth Sunday of Lent until mid-October.

B. Get a really, really good guidebook (the Blue Guide to Rome: not the rather vaguer one to Central Italy) and choose a limited number of things you really want to see. Use your dismal experience to define stuff you don't want to go within a million miles of ever again. Broad-brush guide books (like Fodors) mostly just give lists of must-sees. In Rome, these are almost all must-avoids.

C. Carefully plan your wanderings so you can, if necess, go back to your hotel or flat in the middle of the day and lie down for a while. There's a reason Romans had a siesta for so long.

D. My list: Santa Maria Maggiore, Santa Sabina and the keyhole of the Knights of Malta Embassy (both on the Aventine) and San Clemente in Via S Giovanni in Laterano. And check current exhibitions at www.pierreci.it/en.aspx

Following this thread with interest. DH and I leave in a couple of days for 7 nights in Rome. Or--5 nights in Rome and 2 in Tuscany. Still debating.
I have already visited some &quot;big sights&quot; so I hope to do lots of wandering around.
The first time we only had one day and it was 102 F. We were all exhausted and cranky but we made the best of it.
This time we are hoping for less crowds, much better weather, and we are taking Rick Steve's book and doing his walks or not doing them. We'll see...

Thank you everyone for your thoughtful posts! I'm actually starting to look forward to Rome because of all the wonderful suggestions. I am definitely going to take it slower and just wander around more this time. Also, I'm hoping that since it’s at the first part of the trip (rather than at the end of a much longer trip), along with my friends wide-eyed wonder of it all, their enthusiasm just might rub off on me.


flanneruk: “<i>….a full-scale Papal Audience just a bunch of people coming dangerously close to idolatry…</i>” This comment made me laugh. So true!!