Well I'm glad I didn't lose all of you. Thanks for the encouragement. Tracy, I am so jealous!! I hope you have a wonderful time and I know you will. Have a drink at the Buza Bar for me.

Nikki: You know to be honest I didn't really notice. I sat on the other side of the room from where the bras were. The delightful waitress/owner did take my art business card for the wall though. I met a couple sitting next to me who were just so interesting, Americans living in Singapore - he Deputy Chief Executive of Workforce Development Agency, so quite frankly, I did not notice that they were gone. It is my favorite little bistro in Paris. It is tiny, not a star place, but good honest, Parisian food. I think it would be tres romantic to go there with the one you love.

Barb, I have a bone to pick with you. Ever since reading this report, I've had Croatia on the brain!! :-O

It's a pain
to have Croatia on the brain,
and hard to restrain
the need to get on a plane!!

Please give us another installment. :-)

As others have said, definitely keep going...even though it is making my travel decision harder to make. :)

Geesh, this darn work is sure making it hard to get a trip report done. Doesn't my boss realize this? ha. I'll try to post the rest of Dubrovnik tomorrow.

Barb,

:) doesn't work get in the way? Don't they realize what's more important? Give me my paycheck and then let me deal with my travel obsession. :)

boy, I am so with you on this one!

Hi Barb--

We were in Dubrovnik at the same time! I'm loving reading your report, reexperiencing our trip all over again. Nevva mind your boss -- keep writing!

Grrrrr - I just wrote the last of this report and somehow managed to delete the whole thing!! So,here goes again.

10/9 - after visiting the Franciscan Monastery and the Church of St. Blaise, I was off with my upstairs neighbors to Cavtat. We caught the bus just outside the Ploce Gate up on the main road and paid on the bus (12kuna). OMG Cavtat, how I loved it. There was hardly any other tourists there, it was a warm, picture perfect day. The water here is crystal clear and the most beautiful blue. Lots of cute waterfront cafes lining the little harbor. We strolled along the tiny streets up from the harbor. It was so quiet - we were the only people there, except for a few kitties who followed us around. We stopped for lunch at a family run little place on the harbor. I had a very delicious octopus salad and white wine, plus gratis grappa. There is a lovely walk around the waterfront that was lined with pine trees and gorgeous beaches. They wanted to take the bus back, but I opted for the boat and boy am I glad that I did. There was one couple and me on the boat. The warm breeze coupled with the sea spray on my face and the very picturesque coastline made it one of those goosebump moments. Also seeing the walls of Dubrovnik in the distance - ahhh!!

I decided to walk through the Rector's Palace on the way home. Very opulant and magnificent. Needing to just relax and absorb the atmosphere of Dubrovnik and sort of store it away for the winter, I headed to, you guessed it, the Buza Bar. I had the little table in the corner by the railing. I hate to repeat myself, but it just doesn't get much better than this. The very nice young Irish couple sitting next to me took my pic, which is now sitting on my desk here at work and puts an instant smile on my face and such wonderful memories of that moment every time I look at it.

Well I just deleted it again - what's up with that! Man I'll never get this finished.

So, I met the couple from the night before outside my apt. at appointed time. We decided to go to Proto for dinner. Well, it was just outstanding and probably the best meal so far. We shared some appetizers and a bottle of the house wine. I had a filet with Bernaise sauce and crab on top and potato croquettes. OMG it just melted in my mouth and I savored every single bite. We shared a very decadent, very large, very dense chocolate cake dessert. 150 kuna for mine. Our waiter was so cute and the service was impeccable. I then introduced them to the Troubedor and who should be there too but the Irish couple from the Buza Bar, what a small town. The drinks are pretty expensive here, but I think, very worth it. The sole waiter is a hoot - he does not smile, but he is just amazing the way he whirls around with a huge tray full of drinks, never forgetting an order and such stamina!! He even surprised me with a little smile as I was leaving. Walking home at 1:00 am the streets were totally deserted.

10/10:

I can't beleive how great I have been sleeping here - maybe it's just me.

I woke up thinking seriously about returning the same time next year, but for a longer stay. I bought a bus ticket at the nearby tabaci (6kuna) to the New Harbor to buy my bus ticket to Trogir the next day. It's an easy 10 min ride to the Autobusni Kolodvor. I was told there was a "direct" bus to Trogir every day at 11:00, so this is what I bought for 110 kuna. The New Harbor is very large with big gorgeous yachts and wooden masted sailing ships, very cool. You can jump on any bus and it will take you back to the Pile Gate. After buying a very yummy hazelnut/chocolate gelato, I made my way to the old harbor to buy my boat ticket to Lokrum for the afternoon.

Having just missed the boat I decided to have my last meal of Calamari and went back to Peskarija where Jeff and I had our first dinner. It was just as good as I remembered it! It was as short boat ride to Lokrum. It was very beautiful, quiet, tranquil island with lovely rocky beaches, water that was crystal clear with torqouise water, fragrant pine woods and peacocks that walk about freely. The botanical gardens seemed a little unkempt to me and I was the only one there. When I come back to Dubrovnik, I will spend a whole day on Lokrum, basking in the sun on the big flat rocks on the beach, swimming and just relaxing. There is an amazing little lagoon complete with a rope swing that looked heavenly. After returning to Dubrovnik, I stopped at Gradskavana, a lovely restaurant terrace just off the Standun. I ordered a prosek, which is a delicious local liqueur (15 kuna). This is a terrific place to watch the people walking by. I was feeling very sad watching the obvious new arrivals when I had to leave the next day. So then it was back to the apt. to pack. Nerio stopped by to say that he would pick me up at 10:00 a.m. to drive me to the main bus station, sigh...
Dinner was at Spaghetteria Toni, a little place tucked into a tiny side street. I had resisted eating any pizza or Italian food while in Dubrovnik as I wanted to experience all the local cuisine and because Rome was next on my agenda and you just can't compete with Roman pizza, in my opinion. I had pasta with mushrooms and chicken in a cream sauce that was absolutely delish. With bread and wine 71.50 kuna. I was pretty tired, so I just decided to turn in early and I set my alarm for 6:00 a.m. so I could up and stroll around and take some photos before the city awoke. Great idea because the streets were empty, except for the few delivery people. The market was just getting set up when I set out. I took lots of photos without any people in them. I decided rather than pack a lot of food for the bus trip that I would have a nice big breakfast, which is exactly what I did at my fav breakfast place on the Strandum. I even had bacon and eggs, well it was more like ham than bacon and it was rather limp, not crisy, but good nonetheless.

Nerio was there promptly at 10:00 and he carried the Big Boy down the stairs and drug it all the way to his car. We chatted on the way - I told him what a great time I'd had and how I loved Dubrovnik and how I thought the people were just beautiful. I told him maybe I would come back and meet some handsome guy and never go home. He smiled at me and said "I have many friends" and then he winked. I said, great, now you tell me, why didn't you tell me this 6 days ago! He told me to keep in touch with email and with a quick peck on the cheek, he was gone. I noted that there are lots of taxis at this bus station and lots of "sobe" people waiting for new arrivals. I also noted that if you have more than one bag, they charge you extra. Also, watch the seats when you get on because some are broken and they are in a permanent reclined position. If the person in front of you reclines it is like being in a cramped airplane. I must say, it was not the greatest bus I've ever been on. It was supposed to be airconditioned, but... Also sit on the right side for the views. Right before we pulled out, I realized with a heart thudding scare that my passport, inside my money belt, was in my suitcase, now in the bottom of the bus!! I ran up front to tell the driver. He turned off the bus and with a huff, opened up the bottom and retrieved my suitcase, which was of course under tons of other ones. I was apologizing profusely, feeling so stupid, when he said it wasn't the first time.

Well this was soon to be known as the bus trip from hell. Their idea of direct and mine are certainly different. We stopped at every single little town on the way and for every single person standing on the side of the road. And... rather than take your money BEFORE you got on the bus, they wait until you are on and then with strange little handheld machine, you pay and he prints out a receipt. I wondered what would happend if you didn't have the right amount of money, or forgot your money at home. Would they stop and put you out on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere?? Luckily it was not an issue on this trip anyway. I was kicking myself that I didnt have a map to see what all the little towns were along the way. Some very charming, some not quite so charming. At the Bosnian border, we stopped and the guard boarded the bus and actually looked at each one unlike in Montenegro. I was looking out the window at the guard booth and there was a guy sitting in there with a big assault rifle, in pieces, he was cleaning it. Another guy picked up two hand guns from the counter, walked outside, yelled to a guard across the way, twirled the guns, gunslinger style and laughed. I was stunned. Sure not like at the Peace Arch/Canadian border back home. It was a hot, long, cramped ride, even though the scenery was really breathtaking. By the time we got to Split, I was really ready to be off that bus. More people got on, a rather large woman sat next to me and almost immediately we became bonded (her heavy sweating thigh becoming bonded with mine). When we stopped in what I thought might be Trogir and what I also thought would be the end of the line, I was the only one getting off!! I made sure it was Trogir and the driver who was not my biggest fan, gave me the yea, duh look. So I was standing on the sidewalk, Big Boy by my side as the bus sped away. Hot, sweating with a big wet spot on my thigh, I headed across the street to Trogir.

Barb, you are so great with descriptions! I can just picture your seat companion and the gunslinger! Love this report, you are making me miss Dubrovnik and I have never been there!

Naive me thought Trogir was going to be this tiny little village and my hotel would be right there. Ha, well I trudged across the busy street, through the wall gate and asked the first shop owner where Hotel Pasike was - she just pointed - outside the wall - after walking a few more blocks in the direction she had pointed, I asked again. I really need to figure out meters because when someone says 30 meters, I'm like ok, is that feet, miles, or what. I just happened to see the sign down an alley off the street I was treking down. I was totally exhausted by the time I drug myself into the lobby. The receptionist dressed in traditional costume carried Big Boy up the three steep flights of stairs, bless her heart. My room was tiny, but very cute and quite modernized, even though it was a very old building. After freshening up, and changing out of those damp traveling clothes, I set out to do a little exploring of Trogir. My legs were actually a little weak and wobbly from being cramped up for the last 5.5 hrs. Trogir is an interesting little town, lots of winding, narrow streets. It's pretty small so you can see most of it in a few hours, but really warrants more time than that. Because I was exhausted, I opted to just have dinner at the hotel's restaurant, which is just across the tiny alley. The food was not bad, certainly not gourmet, but tasty. I had grilled lamb with a rather less tasty rice and vegetable dish. The musicians who were playing were great. One guy was on the mandolin type instrument and the other a guitar. I don't know what it is about music and getting all sentimental, but I found myself choking back tears, again. The waitress came over and asked if everything was ok and I told her in a blubbery way trying very hard not to sound like a total mental case, that I just loved Croatia and I was very sad because I was leaving the next day. The next thing I know, the musicians were playing, for me!! Wow, now there was a regular waterfall. I think the owner sent over a free limoncello, of all things, maybe hoping I would get it together and not cause a real scene. It worked. I ended up chatting with the "band" and leaving them a big tip. One of them asked if I was going home to Canada??? hmmm how did he know that??? hotel must have shared my passport information with them. Or maybe when I started blubbering, they were wondering if they might have to notify somebody back home. On the way to the room I asked the receptionist about the free ride to the airport the next day and when did they recommend leaving. My flight was at 4:20, so I'm thinking maybe 2:00, 2;30. She said 3:30 - really??? She said it would only take 5 min. I was a little skeptical, but was too tired to argue. Fell into bed, thinking I might watch just a little TV, but all I could get was a porn channel! Watched for a minute, ha, and fell asleep and slept like a log.

Boy did I sleep good - maybe it was the x-rated tv.?? I decided to repack Big Boy a bit, which was easier said than done. I thought maybe I could find a tote bag or something that I could put some stuff in. Had breakfast at the hotel. I was pleasantly surprised. It was a really good little buffet of crusty bread and various rolls, juice, tea, coffee, cold cuts, cheese, cereals, yogurt and fresh oranges and apples. I walked around the harbor and around the whole town, wandering down some more streets, peeking into shops. There is a very large open air market where you can buy just about everything. I ended up buying a cute Diesel backpack, solution to packing problem. Stumbled upon a little atelier/studio and chatted with the artist who is there in the summer and winters in Prague. He is also a philosopher of life, art, love, men, women, you name it. Intersting guy. Stopped at a waterfront cafe for a glass of white wine. There was a huge beautiful sailing yacht right in front of me, flying an British flag. I imagined what it must be like owning and sailing aboard a yacht like that. Dream on. I like Trogir, if I ever go back, I would probably stay a little longer. Checking with the hotel again about when to leave, even though she said 3:30, I insisted on 2:30. I still had to pay the airport tax on my Europebyair tickets, so I wanted to make sure I had lots of time. They carried my bag down to the lobby and I set out to have lunch. I know Karmelengo gets good reviews as does Top Balloon, but both places were just opening and there was no-one else there, so I opted instead for Fontana on the waterfront and was not disappointed. As a last tribute to Dalmation fresh seafood, I ordered a seafood platter of grilled octopus, shrimp a very small lobster? and whole small fish, together with the traditional side salad which I love - always a little lettuce, tomato and very thin slices of cucumber and slightly pickled cabbage. Delicious and would be enough to satisfy me until dinner in Roma!

Well,, it's a very small airport and it's very obvious where to go to pay the taxes - 229 kuna, no charge cards, so I had to go to the cash machine there. Now that I'm not in Dubrovnik and in the traveling mode, I just wanted to be in Rome. All this luggage, it's just disgusting, Rick Steves would have a fit. Traveling days are tough, but you gotta do what you gotta do.

So, I made it to Roma! Very short flight, just up and down basically. The limo driver Fabio was there to pick me up -- just kidding, but he did look like he was straight from central casting - handsome, very slicked back black hair, white starched shirt open to reveal a great looking chest with a gold chain, dark suit, gold bracelet and did I mention, handsome! He spoke a little English and with my very little Italian we communicated just fine. Because I had told him I had been to Roma many times, he took a different route to the apt. than I usually get to see. I think maybe it was the back way because we arrived in Trastevere from over the Giancolo hill instead of from the other side of the river through the historic district. He said most drivers take people that way so they can see all the sights along the way. So I felt honored in a way, that he took me the way of the locals, ha.

My little apt., home away from home, was just as I remembered it. I was tired, and just needed to walk around a little, so declined S's very kind offer of dinner, (she did cancel my reservation in Assisi for me for the next day as I had decided to bag it and just stay in Rome) and unpacked some and then headed out. Wow, what a culture shock. Noisy, dirty, chaotic, throngs of people out, music blasting from a nearby bar, it was a little overwhelming to say the least. I knew it was a temporary feeling though, so I tried not to let it get me down. After all, I love Rome. I just settled on a little restaurant I've been to before, La Villetta, Vicolo Del Buco, 2. I had pasta with a tomato cream sauce with peas, mushrooms and bacon. A little salty, but total comfort food for a weary traveler. I really looked forward to a good night's sleep.

The next morning started off on the wrong foot and rather frustrating. I was all set to have a nice warm shower, wash my hair, but as I was turning on the shower, the shower door fell off! I managed to sort of hold it up with one hand, and maneuver the hand held shower with the other hand. Then, when I went to dry my hair, my blow dryer did not seem to work in the bathroom plug. I plugged it in in the kitchen and it immediately glowed bright red, so I quickly turned it off. I guess I had used it once in the US when I had travelled to Seattle and totally forgot to switch it over to Euro voltage. Luckily, it did not fry it and once I turned it back to euro volt it was fine. TG. But the plug in the bathroom never did work, so I had to do my hair in the living/bedroom.

Stopped in the Campo Di Fiori, at my fav little cafe, had a cappuc. and then got my TIM card for my phone, so I was all set for my 1st day in Rome. Because this was my 7th time in Rome and because I have basically seen all the "sights", this visit was mostly just strolling around new areas, sitting in cafes, eating a ton, drinking my fair share of good vino and visiting with friends. So, I won't give you a day by day report, but I did want to mention a few new places I found to eat and some maybe helpful hints.

For a great little snack for very little money, you should try La Fiaschetta on the Campo. You can get very tasty bruschetta, many different varieties, and a glass of wine for under 6 euro.

Following Degas' great directions, I walked to S. Pietro in chains, Michelangelo's Moses is just amazing. How in the world did he do that?? From there I walked to S. Clemente. Lovely church, but the best part is the scavi under the church. Absolutely fascinating. Looked for Degas recommended restaurant across the street from S. Clemente, but it was closed, so I went around the corner to a very nice little cafe and had spaghetti carbonaro and 1/4 ltr. vino - yum. Sorry I didnt' get the name of the place but it was a wine bar too. From there I hiked up to S. Giovanni in Laterno and boy am I glad I did. Amazing!! It is huge, ornate with gold everywhere. It is the most important church in Rome after St. Peter's. Huge statues of the Apostles, six on each side of the nave. The papal throne is reserved only for the Pope. In fact, he must take his seat there to become Pope officially. Pretty awesome place.

Don't have a heart attack if you go to an ATM and ask for 300 euro and it tells you you do not have enough money in your account. I almost did. But then I asked for 250 and it gave it to me. Turns out, I had more than enough money in my account, just some of the ATMs will not give you more than 250 at a time.

If you have curly hair and you straighten it, you have to buy some Phyofrisant relaxing balm (12 euro) from a local farmacia. This stuff is amazing - it's like a miracle!! I stocked up. It's like $22 here. The cream shampoo that smells minty is great too.

I discovered something about myself too. I always have this very romantic idea about how wonderful it will be to shop at the open air markets, lots of veggies, fruit, cheese, meats -- and then make some great meals at the apt. Well, by the end of the day it's not looking like such a hot idea to me anymore. I ended up giving S. most of my market finds, including the two gigantic porcini (19 euro) that I bought and which she cooked up for me. We had a great dinner at her place - small whole fish, roasted potatoes and, of course, my porcini - she even went out and bought a special grill pan for them.

Also noticed that literally every nice clothing shop I went into the first thing the sales clerk would do was to look at my shoes - no, I'm not kidding. I guess my well worn Eccos didn't impress because some of these sales clerks were a little on the snooty side. Also be forewarned, most of the clothing in most of the shops look like they were made for stick people, although I guess if you got a much bigger size than you would normally even begin to try on, you will probably be fine.

Don't tell anyone else, but Sorra Margherita in the Jewish area is the best little place for lunch. Try to keep this a secret, please. I had THE most delicious meatballs, two gigantic ones to be exact, OMG,melts in your mouth, of course the fried artichoke and gnocci that almost floated off the plate they were so light and scrumptious. As I said, let's keep this our little secret though.

Only rude person I encountered in my whole trip - at the grocery store - she asked me something which I totally did not understand - in my best Pimsleur Italian I told her I did not understand - she rolled her eyes, her hands flew up and she said something to the lady who was behind me in the line and they both laughed at me and then in very loud voices said something. I think they were making fun of me and it made me feel very bad. I left feeling not too happy about that place.

To be continued ....

Had great meals at:

Da Lucia in Trastevere, Via Mattonato 2. Lots of locals and good Roman home cooking. Beautiful setting on a tiny, narrow street. Great for a warm evening dinner.

Maccheroni, Piazza delle Coppelle, 44. This place was really jumping on a Sunday afternoon for lunch. Large groups, big families, tons of food being consumed. I had a little table tucked in a corner where I could observe the room and the dishwasher, lol. The house wine is pretty darn good too. I had pasta with eggplant and tomato sauce with a very tasty salad. When I left, after a very leisurely lunch, they were lined up outside, so I would advise getting there early for lunch on Sundays.

Da Augusto, in Trastevere, Piazza Di Renzi: This place is great, but get there early. I think it opens at 8:00, so I was there at 7:45 and I and a few others just sort of wandered in and sat down - again I was lucky enough to find a small table in the back corner, great spot for observing the whole room. The waiter, a cute guy with gorgeous chocolate brown skin and energy and charisma that is amazing, hustled around putting paper tablecloths, on all the tables, then forks, then knives, then glasses. By this time the place was filled - he then brought out white and red carafes of vino - it was like being at someone's home for dinner. I just had a great time there, watching the whole scene. The food is good and cheap. My three course dinner with vino was 20 euro. Highly recommend it for a fun evening.

Il Conte Tacchia in Trastevere. I was actually looking for another restaurant at this address, but apparently it has closed and this place is now there. Well lucky for me! Small, intimate, all locals. I am sure I was the only none-local there. Food was outstanding, simple, but fresh, fresh. I had a delish whole grilled white fish, grilled potatoes and spinach with a lovely little almond torte for dessert. 32 euro with vino.

Da Armando al Pantheon, Salita de' Crescenzi, 31 - just around the corner from the Pantheon. Well this was a real treat, even though it was a little pricey, for me, for lunch, 36.50 euro. The antipasto was probably the best I've had. Perfectly grilled veggies, eggplant, red peppers, zucchini and a whole small artichoke with the stem pointing upwards in the middle of the plate - this was sprinkled with a crumblike topping and browned in the oven. I really wanted to take a pic, but I just didn't feel comfortable in there doing that, darn. I savored each bite. The grilled lamb was robust and crispy on the edges and the roast potatoes were done just right. I even had creme brulee for dessert. I couldn't help but notice other plates of food being delivered to neighboring tables that looked even better than what had ordered. The service was exceptional. This is a busy place - I had a table for two and even though people were being turned away and were now lining up outside, I never felt rushed and did not receive my bill until I asked for it and it was given to me with a smile and such class. Loved this place!

Something I have wanted to do, but just never seemed to get around to it was to visit the Galleria Moderna Arte. Well I made it finally. I broke down and took a taxi from Trastevere as it is quite a walk. It was fabulous! I was quite impressed. I got there early enough that for the first hour there were very few people there. I spent 2.5 hours there and could have spent more, except I was getting a little weary and needed food. Ha, reoccurring theme.

So sadly and reluctantly I left my apt. at 3:45 a.m. for the airport for my 6:20 a.m. flight. Ughhh... Noticed there was a rather large group of older people who were obviously part of a tour group judging from their little badges pinned to the front of them. Turns out they were from Seattle!! Alki Tours. So, my two seatmates from Rome to Amsterdam were part of this group. Really nice ladies. Well, the four-hour layover in Amsterdam turned into a 6.5 hour layover due to a delayed flight. Lucky for me I got to hang out with the senior citizens,who incidentally were just a hoot. Boy I hope when I'm that age I have half of the energy and spunk most of them had. One lady was 86 and suggested we all go the bar and have wine to pass the time, even if it was only 11:30 a.m. She had three glasses!!! But it did put us in a better mood.

Unfortunately for me, my seatmate on the flight to Seattle was like the worst nightmare. He was young, rather grimy looking, but when he sat down I notice huge chunks of what I assumed was dandruff in his hair. He also had one of the worst cases of acne with really large infected looking pimples all over his face. He also had a really bad odor about him, rather like rotten teeth or something. I hugged the window!! He kept picking at his face and then biting his fingernails and scratching his head and other body parts, Ewwwwww. Needless to say it was not the best trip home. And, because of the delay in Amsterdam, I missed my connecting flight in Seattle to home. As we were landing we were told that all missed connections had been rebooked. So, without stressing too much, I walked to the Horizon gate only to be told that no, in fact, I had not been rebooked and that flight and the last flight of the night was full! He said my only option was the Airporter, which is a shuttle bus and which I knew would take 2.5+ hrs. to get me home. I was totally and completely exhausted and just on the verge of losing it. My luggage was on the way home hopefully, but not me. I was told to go to baggage claim and make sure my bags made it onto that flight. While I was down there, I was told I had been booked on that flight, but it was probably going to be cancelled due to weather. Remember, this is how this whole trip began!! So faced with chancing that it might not be cancelled, but if it was, maybe not having a way home that night, I decided to take the Airporter. The driver kindly lent me her cell phone so I could call my friend who was picking me up at the airport at home. Very tired, and very relieved I pulled into the Value Inn and there was my friend - she never looked so good to me.

So... another great adventure. And like childbirth, I have now forgotten all the pain of the trip home and I'm looking forward to maybe another great adventure next fall - I'm hoping maybe back to Dubrovnik???

oh, barb...i almost threw up as you were describing your seatmate to seattle. It reminded me of my flight from London directly to San Francisco. This man in front of me kept standing up in the aisle next to me and he had a mild "gas" issue...and think about it..if someone is standing and you're sitting...

I was soooo happy to land!

lyb: OMG - Gag, gag, how horrible. I almost would rather have had the plump sweaty Croatian lady sitting next to me, but I really missed the lovely tour group ladies. Ah, the joys of flying.

Just found a good article which mentions two of the restaurants I loved in Trastevere. The article is written by Anthony Capella who wrote Food of Love, fun little novel set in Trastevere, which I just happened upon and read two years ago while staying in Trastevere.