Ger’s Trip to Florence over Easter
 

Hello all:

My heartfelt thanks to all of you that contributed to my threads, when I asked for advice and information regarding a very late booked Easter trip to Florence – you are better than any guidebook, and I am in your debt.

For the planners, here are links to my planning threads:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...for-easter.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-which-one.cfm

Introduction
At the beginning of April, I decided one evening to spend a long weekend in Florence over Easter.

I have been to Florence four times before, but have not visited in about 6 years. Easter was definitely not the best time to go, as I knew it would probably be crowded, and the price of flights and hotel rooms, at this late date, would be astronomical.

As expected, the price of flights from London were outrageous, and most seats were booked out completely for Thursday/Friday out and Monday return on all airlines. So, I decided to add a couple of days, and fly on Wednesday afternoon, return on Tuesday evening. On Cityjet from London City Airport (my local) the cost was £360, as opposed to about £700 plus, if I flew Thursday/Friday and returned Monday. So I booked it!

The Hotels
I then started looking at hotels, and was even more disappointed, but I was committed!
All the great B&Bs recommended by Fodor’s travellers were booked, and regular four-star hotels were priced at about £1500 and upwards for the period. It became clear that staying IN Florence was not an option, unless I was willing to lay down a lot of money.

Bluestar (many thanks to you) suggested I check out Hotwire.com, which I did, and very late one evening, I found a ‘secret hotel’; a Five-star villa, about 10 minutes by taxi to the centre, at £820, considerably less than I would have to pay for an equivalent in Florence. It was easy to check which hotel it was, as there was only one in the region, and it looked perfect. So, I booked the Villa Omli in Bagno Ripoli:
http://www.villaolmifirenze.com/en/

Next morning, I got ‘buyer’s remorse’, as I really wanted to stay IN Florence, and it continued for a few days. I was quite relieved when NYFS jumped on the thread and validated my choice, so I knew I wasn’t buying ‘a pig in a poke’. Its always a relief when one gets a ‘thumbs-up’ from someone that one kinda ‘knows’ on Fodors, and a seasoned traveller. Other travellers validated the option of staying outside Florence, so I crawled out of my cave, and started planning.

I asked Fodorites about day trips, and did a lot of reading and planning, and I got so seduced by the recommendations, I extended my trip until Thursday, for £60 change fee for the flight. I once again went to Hotwire.com, and found another ‘secret’ Five-Star hotel in Santa Maria Novella area. Again, it was easy to identify, as there are only a few. It was the Montebello Splendid. I was very content, as I had stayed here before, and had been very happy with the hotel:
http://www.montebellosplendid.com/

The Planning
Fodorites provided excellent recommendations as to how I should spend my time in Florence and the environs. I did some preliminary scheduling of my days, but was open to changes, when I discovered that the weather predictions were fairly poor for almost my entire visit; anywhere from light rain to torrential rain almost every day. However, I discovered that weather in Florence in about as predictable as weather in Ireland, and ended up being pleasantly surprised.

I did book the Uffizi and del’Accademia before I left from the following site, where you can book all Florence museums:
http://www.b-ticket.com/B-Ticket/uffizi/default.aspx

What to wear (Tongue in cheek ;) )
Always a perennial favourite on Fodors! Well, this was MY Spring holiday, and I was wearing linen and cotton, regardless of any other advice and the weather forecast. As it turned out, it was a perfect choice, as temperatures were in the 15-18’s .

I can’t give any advice regarding spending 8 days in Florence with only carry-on luggage – its beyond my capabilities to pack like that. I intended to walk 8 hours a day, so there is no chance I would wear a shirt twice (eewww -ponging!), so that is at least 8 shirts, plus two for evening. I wore almost everything I brought. I will admit that bringing six pairs of shoes was overkill, and I am not sure where I was going to wear the pair of stilettos, but sometimes my shoes just need a vacation, and I can’t deny them :)

While I was wearing linen, the Italian women were bundled up in those ghastly black ‘puffer’ coats, topped with Burberry scarves, looking like the Michelin tyre logo-man. While necessary in Winnipeg and Wisconsin in November to March, I can’t understand why anyone could wear these coats in Firenze in April. Clearly, the ‘fashionista’ of Florence were in absentia.

Next: My intinerary

Best regards ... Ger

Oh, excellent start, and I love the villa!

My Itinerary

I considered the itinerary may times, and varied it during the trip, based on the weather and how I felt on the day. Of all the trips I have taken, this was probably the least I had planned, and yet the most successful. I think this was because of the brief planning period: I was more flexible, and not so committed to doing certain things on certain days.
Wednesday: Afternoon flight from LCY to Florence. Pickup by Limo to the Villa Omli. Dinner at the hotel.

Thursday: Dante’s walk through Florence. The Uffize. More walking. Lunch. Walk around markets.

Friday: Dell’Accademia. Day trip to Arezzo.

Saturday: A rainy day in Firenze: San Marco. Sante Croce. Churches. Lunch. Bargello.

Sunday: Firenze: The Easter Parade, Florence-style. The Exploding Cart outside the Duomo. Lunch. Santo Spirito area. P. Michelangelo.

Monday: Lucca

Tuesday: Pitti Palace. Lunch with Sarge. Boboli Gardens. Santo Spirito area. Palazzo Vecchio. Pizza in Santa Croce area.

Wednesday: Fisole. Branccacci chapel. Lunch. Piazza della SS Annuziata. Archaeology Museum.

Thursday: San Miniato al Monte. Giardino Bardi. Firenzi Synagogue. Lunch. Guicci Museum. Ferregano Museum. Santo Maria Novella church.

Wednesday 16th April:

London City airport is just around the corner from me (25 minutes by taxi) Cityjet is my favourite airline, but I was disappointed to discover on check-in that it had been sold by Air France to some German conglomerate, which invalidated all my privileges, including checking in two bags and overweight luggage allowance. So I stated the trip knowing that it was unlikely I could do much shopping. I checked in one 25 KG bag, already over the 22 KG. limit, but they let me away with it.

Flight took off on time, and there was the usual free wine, but no spirits or sandwiches, as was usual under the old regime. I missed by G&T!

I had checked out limo services the night before I left regarding pickup, but none responded, so I asked the hotel to order a limo to pick me up, for 60 Euro. I could have gotten this for 50 Euros from the Limo sites I had checked out, and probably far cheaper by taxi, but I had no idea where I was going, so I bit the bullet. – last minute planning comes at a price unfortunately.

Lovely Limo driver picked me up and deposited me at the Olmi. I have to say, I loved it from the instant I arrived. It was a sunny sunset evening, and the air was so sweet and clear. The staff was warm and welcoming. I arranged dinner that evening in the restaurant and a seat on the bus for next morning to Firenze.

My room was in one of the outer-buildings (one minute walk), and was taken by ‘golf-cart’ with my luggage. The building had about 4-5 bedrooms, with a full kitchen facilities, dining room (seating for 12), two sitting rooms, so I assume it could be rented as a villa for a large extended family.

My room was just perfect. It was large, with lots of closet space, nice view over the gardens, great big bathroom with Jacuzzi bath and separate shower. Very civilized indeed! I was at home. All my doubts just disappeared out the windows. I highly recommend this gem!

After a bath, I wandered back to the main building to the restaurant. It was quiet that night; there were a few tables occupied by Italian, English, French and German patrons. I ordered a calamari salad as a starter, and Sea Bass as the main dish. First was OK, but ill-conceived as a dish and the calamari was a bit rubbery, but the Sea Bass was very well cooked. Portions were very large. I ordered a bottle of wine, drank a quarter, and brought the rest back to my room for future consumption. The food was not great, just competent, and was expensive for what it was, as one would expect in most hotels.

Next: A walk around Dante’s Firenze, the Uffizi, Lunch, the Markets.

Sounds like a great trip.

O'Rielly, sounds like a great trip. Will be following along. Glad the hotel worked out so well.

I got a kick out of your description of the locals in their puffer coats. Years ago I was in Sicily in late February where I thought the weather balmy and spring like. Many Italian gals were wrapped in fur coats. I suppose they are used to so much hotter weather than those of us from colder climes.

Hello Ger,

Enjoying your report! Last time I was in Firenze over 7 years ago I swore I would never be back, it was so crowded. But you're making me reconsider... Looking forward to reading more!

Thursday 17th April Morning

The free bus leaves from the hotel at 0900 and 1000 each morning, and returns from Florence at 1730 and 1830 each evening to the hotel. There are also evening buses from the hotel at (I think) 1700 and 1800.

The birds woke me up, through my open window. I had slept hard and deep with that sweet air.

I was on the 0900 bus, and, as advised by NYFS, the trip takes about 20-30 minutes, not 10 minutes – important information to know if you have a definite appointment. Also, the bus deposits you at the sister hotel, the Hotel Lucchesi, on the banks of the Arno, due south of P. Santa Croce, a good 5-10 minutes walk to the Ponte Vecchio. You need to take this into consideration, if you are considering taking a train from SMN station, and build in the time.
http://www.hotelplazalucchesi.it/en/

I had purchased a ‘self-guided tour’ from Audible.com for this visit (available from Amazon also). There are four walks, and it is an excellent introduction to Florence. PDF maps are provided.

Walk & Talk Florence:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Walk-and-Tal...+talk+florence

I started the day with a walk around Dante’s Florence, exploring the oldest parts of Florence, which starts in front of the Duomo, and brings you through the streets through which he would have walked. Admire the magnificent doors of the Battistero and visit the Duomo, and marvel at Brunelleschi’s dome.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florence_Cathedral

It was Good Thursday, so the Duomo was closed for Mass, so I could not get in, so explored the streets until it was time for my 1100 appointment with the Uffizi.
http://www.uffizi.com/

I am going to state the bloody obvious - please book ahead! The line-ups were horrendous – I reckon about two hours. I picked up my pre-booked ticket and was in the gallery within 15 minutes. I explored every nook and cranny, but it was so very busy, so I had little opportunity to enjoy the masterpieces. I spent less time that I thought I would in the Uffizi, simply because it was too crowded to enjoy. I decided to leave. Normally, I would have spent at least three hours there, but one must now when its time to leave the party. I have to go back at a quieter time to really appreciate, but it was worth seeing.

I continued the walk with Florence Walks, learning about Dante’s Florence, and the growth of Florence from a back-water, to a power-house of medieval merchants, and the growth of the Medici family – from pharmacists to cloth dyers to Princes, whose blood runs through most European nobility today. Was there ever a more successful family of social climbers?

Just beyond the very ugly P. Della Repubblica, there are the tiny mediaeval streets where the battles between the Guelphs and Ghibellines were fought in the early 14th century, the merchant-class Guelphs eventually defeating the noble Ghibellines families (the feudal nobility). There are a few medieval towers still extant.

Time for lunch, and I had not planned. My Everyman Mapguide of Florence (highly recommended for ALL cities, and always provides solid restaurant recommendations), recommended Da Pennello (Via Dante Alighieri, 4R), which serves both locals and tourist trade. It was excellent. I had Tuscan bruschetta to start, followed by a very large and well-cooked pork chop with potatoes, a salad, two glasses of red Tuscan house wine and a large bottle of water. I am prepared to recommend this restaurant – all was good!
http://www.ristoranteilpennello.it/en/


After lunch, I continued my walk, this time around the Market area. I don’t care for this area too much – it is rather run-down in places. Way back, when I visited the market on my first visit to Florence, back in the mid-1980’s, the market stalls carried excellent Italian leather items, and there were real bargains to be had. As I wandered quickly through the market, the changes were obvious. Most of the stall-holders are Bangladeshi/Pakistani/Chinese, selling cheap tat probably made by near-slave labour in factories with poor working conditions. If you decide to buy, be careful, you may be overpaying for the items.

Next, I visited the magnificent St. Lorenzo church, claimed to be the oldest in Florence.
http://en.firenze-online.com/visit/i...rence.php?id=4

I finished the day walking down the Via de’ Tornabuoni, the very chic shopping street where all the major designers are represented. Then along the river Arno to pick up the bus to the hotel.

Here are some photos from the day:
https://florence17042014.shutterfly.com/pictures/8

That evening, I planned for the following day. I had already booked my visit to dell’Accademia for 9 am, and had booked a taxi for 0815. The weather was going to be sunny and warm, so I decided to visit Arezzo, just over an hour by train from Firenze.

While I was wearing linen, the Italian women were bundled up in those ghastly black ‘puffer’ coats, topped with Burberry scarves, looking like the Michelin tyre logo-man. While necessary in Winnipeg and Wisconsin in November to March, I can’t understand why anyone could wear these coats in Firenze in April. Clearly, the ‘fashionista’ of Florence were in absentia.>>

lol, those ARE the fashionistas, who apparently wrap up warm until May 1st, whatever the weather. In Sorrento in February, it was pretty warm the week we were there, 20C at Pompeii, but the italians were wearing their winter gear to a man! [or a woman]. Our italian teacher said that she was quite cold in those temps, but in the summer, when it's 40C+, she's comfortable whereas most of the students are boiling. It's just what you're used to, i suppose.

Great start - the hotel sounds very swish.

Hi guys, thanks for reading.

Muskoka (from Toronto?), yes, the villa was grand indeed, and I did not regret my choice at all. As a matter of fact, as the crowds descended on Florence for Saturday-Monday, I was actually glad I was not staying in Florence. If on had a car and intended to drive around Tuscany, it would be an excellent choice, particularly for the rate I paid.

Peg, it was a great trip, one of the best for years.

LDT and annhig: at least fur coats ARE a fashion statement (not one I personally would make :( ), but those puffer coats ...


Cruisluv, do reconsider. Personally, I would never visit Florence during the summer months, as it is crowded, humid and hot. But outside those times it can be very pleasant.

Best ... Ger

Sandralist, aren't you a real charmer!

<i><font color=#555555>"...a real charmer!"</font></i>

Talk about a buzz kill. I think I'd rather take a stab from the nasty-underwear stalker. Man-haters are always good for a laugh. After reading the greasy donut, I'm suddenly nostalgic for my younger 420 days, wishing someone would pass the bong, immediately.

NYCFS: What is a 'nasty-underwear stalker' and a 'greasy donut'? Or should I not ask?

BTW, many thanks for the validation of the Vila Olmi- clearly, I loved it :).

Some noise doesn't need to be explained. Life is already too short. I often write to amuse myself.

Delighted to hear you had a great time. Happy to help.

Sandralist,

You wrote:

"Turns out Fodorites go abroad sneering at Italian women they see who dress to stay comfortable and well walking around what is to them chilly weather since they don't live in Ireland year round. Ghastly black puffer coats!"

Wow, that's cold as my students used to say. As is so often reiterated on this forum, everyone travels in his/her own way. Some folks enjoy planning their wardrobes and do not feel that one carryon is enough with rinsing tops or whatever in a sink every night is their way to go.

Sandralist, aren't you the poster whom Janisj recently called "Zeppole"? (sp.?) Now I get it.

O'Reilly, please continue with your elegant trip report.

Thank you latedaytraveler, and I will of course continue :).

Sandralist: Perhaps you missed the introduction to that section, where I said:

<<What to wear (Tongue in cheek ;) ) >>. Perhaps you don't understand the term 'tongue in cheek'.

Regardless, I appreciate that you provided excellent advice when I asked for recommendations on day-trips from Florence, and I thank you for your time. I have no idea what prompted your vitriol. I will not respond to you again, and would appreciate if you do not visit this thread again.

Best .. Ger

Oh my, Ger! I was thoroughly enjoying your report and cannot imagine what prompted that nasty post by sandralist. So orry you were subjected to that.

Obviously, sorry not orry....should preview but don't.

Thank you Judy, very kind of you. Report will continue :)


Best regards .. Ger

Friday 18th April

Gallery dell’Accademia

Taxi picked me up at 0815 for the 20 minute drive to dell’Accademia (20 Euros).
http://www.accademia.org/?gclid=CLuM...FdShtAodERcAYQ

I arrived early, and was delighted to discover the gallery almost empty. Of course, we all go to the gallery to see David. I had never seen him before, as on every previous visit, I either could not get into the gallery, or he was off being restored. WOW, the statue is so stunning: his casual confidence, bordering on teenage arrogance, his androgynous beauty (well, from the neck up). He is alive, and had he broken out of his marble casing and walked out of the museum, I would not have been surprised. He is just sheer perfection, majestic, a legacy to total genius. If I lived in Florence, I’d probably visit every month, and see some new facet of his personality. Everyone will take away their own interpretation, but nobody will be disappointed.

But there are also some excellent religious paintings in the gallery that deserve attention. There are excellent early works from the 14th century, and I became a big fan of F. Lippi – such compelling devotional works. There is a room of Fra Bartolomeo paintings – he captures men’s faces well (as human beings, with a personality and a soul ), but his women are not humans– they are ethereal divine creatures, with NO personality – not surprising for a monk.

There is also a very bizarre room of plaster models, that defies description, but not to be missed – and do watch the video on how these plaster models were created and used to develop the marble statuary.

Although I saw most of what I wanted to see, I would have liked to revisit some paintings for a second viewing, but the gallery was filling up with tour groups, and the weather outside was fine, and I decided to leave, to get the next available train to Arezzo.

Next: A wonderful sunny and quiet day in Arezzo.

O'Reilly, we were in the area but didn't make it to Arezzo. Interested in your experience.

Agreed, the DAVID is magnificent!

Wonderful, Thank you, now on to Arezzo

Great info, Ger. I know exactly how you feel about spending the extra money for a car but it relieves lots of stress, eh? We noticed the same thing in Greece in May one year—we in shirt sleeves and the Greeks in warm coats. It is as annhig says; just depends upon what one is used to. DH and I saw those plaster models at Accademia. Very interesting. Come on Arezzo!

<i><font color=#555555>"this was MY Spring holiday, and I was wearing linen and cotton…temperatures were in the 15-18’s"</font></i>

I don't travel with linen until the temps reach a steady 29 (85 ºF). IMO, linen is a distinctly summer fabric. For me, April is a month for layers, and I'm never without favorite pastel silks and lightweight cashmere.

Temps in NYC have been hovering around the mid-to-high 60's this past week, but the winds have stirred up quite a chill. Too many silly-looking people on the street are wearing shorts, while I'm still wrapped in a scarf and wearing gloves. A lot of people just like to be naked, and they can't wait for warmer weather. The minute the sun shines and weather forecasters announce it's spring, off come the clothes, no matter what the temperature is outside. Today it's 42º.

Too many people don't like to think about clothing, especially among men. At least Ger gave it some thought.

<i><font color=#555555>"8 days…with only carry-on luggage – its beyond my capabilities to pack like that"</font></i>

I always carry camera equipment and a mini-digital workstation, so it is impossible to ever consider "only carry-on." I always check a minimum of two bags (for clothing and personal items). I am never without 4 pairs of shoes, because I truly care about my feet when I travel. I never walk barefoot. My luggage is not x-large, and I'm an expert packer. The bags are extremely lightweight when empty, made with strong wheels and retractable handles. It's very easy to strap other bags to my wheeled-luggage.

<i><font color=#555555>"Italian women were bundled up in those ghastly black ‘puffer’ coats, topped with Burberry scarves, looking like the Michelin tyre logo-man."</font></i>

The "puffy" coat was never flattering, especially on those shorter gals. But they were all the rage with models in the early 80's. The refined nylon fabric and the down filling were so sensual to the touch. Now the fiberfill crap is made in China, and the retread version truly looks and feels like auto tire. Still, I'm sure Norma Kamali is smiling at the design's return.

LTD, Mimi and TDudette: Arezzo report coming up within the hour :)


NYCFS: 85 degrees and I want to be naked, or more likely in an air-conditioned room - can't handle the heat at all! Re the puffer coats - I lived in Toronto for more than half my life, and of course wore appropriate gear, but as you said, the proper eiderdown filling. I couldn't imagine living in that cold again.

I don't travel with linen until the temps reach a steady 29 (85 ºF). IMO, linen is a distinctly summer fabric. For me, April is a month for layers, and I'm never without favorite pastel silks and lightweight cashmere>>

NYC - you clearly don't live in the British Isles. we are so keen to divest ourselves of our winter clothing as soon as the least sign of spring arrives that we'll do it some hell or high water. in places where the summer temperatures are more reliable, you can afford to wait.

I have never seen those plaster figures at the Accademia - i wonder how we came to miss them. When we were there last [7 years ago, I didn't have time to go in again when I was there by myself 3 years ago] we did see the musical instruments though. And perhaps they have changed the exhibits in the main gallery - some of the pictures we saw were real corkers [and I don't mean that in a good way].

looking forward to Arezzo!

:) annhig.

I went to a wine tasting in Old Billingsgate market at London bridge on Saturday, and wore linen. I froze my A$$ off walking over London Bridge, but as they day got warmer, and we moved to Soho for Dim Sum, and then onto Borough market for more wine, I was perfectly comfortable, and she was shvitzing in her skinny jeans and winter boots!

OK, almost finished the Arezzo section :)

Ger - the same thing happened to me today in reverse - this morning I dressed for the lovely spring day we were promised, and when I came out of court at 2pm I was greeted by cold mizzle. Luckily I had some warmer clothes with me.

By 7.30 when I got home, it was quite a lot warmer again.

Friday 18th April: Arezzo

I sprinted to SMN station, and bought a ticket to Arezzo. Unfortunately, there was no indication on the ticket as to the train number, departure time or ultimate end-point of the train (open ticket, all day, and ultimate destination of train unknown) which did not help me to find the platform. You need to be careful about this, as some trains are direct (just over one hour) to Arezzo, and some require changes, and the end destination is often not Arezzo. I checked all the boards, no luck. I asked a man in an official looking uniform, and he was bloody useless. I then found a set of manned booths (manned entirely by women BYW, who spoke perfect English) just behind the ticket dispensers, and one directed me to the train and platform. Don’t forget to validate your ticket before boarding.

Just over an hour later, I arrived at Arezzo. As you exit the station, on the right-hand side, there is a Tourist Office. Pity I only discovered this AFTER coming back to the station at the end of the day – DUH! There is also a Tourist Office at the top of the town, but I didn’t discover that one either until the end of the day – DUH! Well, no-one can ever accuse me of being an organized traveller. When travelling, my enthusiasm often suppresses my organizational capabilities and common sense, but at least I have passed on this learned wisdom to those more organized than myself!

Its easy to find the historic centre – just march up the road directly opposite the train station (Via Guido), beyond the Piazza Guido Monaco, and turn right at any point, until you reach the Corso Italia. The higher you climb along the Corso Italia, the more delightful the town, and its only a gentle climb to Piazza Grande. What a beautiful square! Here I started my tour, by purchasing a map of the city and a tourist guide book. Here is some information that might be of use:

http://www.visitarezzo.com/what-see-...-medici-turism

http://www.visitarezzo.com/map-arezz...arezzo-tourism

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/de...n-Tuscany.html

Sometimes you fall in love with a town at first sight, and I did with Arezzo.

The Piazza Grande is thought to be one of the most beautiful piazzas in Italy, but then most towns will claim that fame. But is it very lovely, with buildings dating from the 13th to the 18th century (I will attach some photos). It was beautiful to me, as it was almost entirely empty and eerily quiet, and after the frenetic pace of Firenze, the silence was very welcome. It is clearly an extremely affluent town, and a family town – well-dressed locals went about their business, pushing prams, dragging toddlers, greeting each other and doing their daily shopping.

If this Piazza was the only reason to visit Arezzo, then it is reason enough. I sat for a while in a cafe under the Pallazo delle Loggia, for a quick coffee, just to enjoy the square, and decide what I wanted to see, which I clearly should have done before I arrived, but I am a martyr to 'Just in Time' travel planning – mea culpa. This was difficult: As I reviewed my newly purchased guide book, I realized that this side trip really should take about a day and a half.

I certainly knew my first visit would be the Basilica of San Francisco to see the frescos. It was a lovely walk back down the town, though the medieval streets. I passed a few enticing food shops on the way and checked them out - what divine smells of meats and cheeses, and a myriad of beautiful doorways.

The Basilica San Francisco was built at the end of the 13th century, and is renowned for its fascinating frescos depicting the Legend of the True Cross, by Piero della Francesca (mid 15th century).

http://www.pierodellafrancesca.it/

The plain facade disguises the beauty within. The frescos are quite stunning, and tell the story of the journey of the cross, from its planting at the time of Adam, though the meeting of the Queen of Sheba and Solomon, to the Crucifixion, the conversion of Constantine and his defeat of Maxentius ... and onward. It is an engaging and imaginative tale, and the frescos are colourful and brilliantly executed. You should plan to spend a lot of time here, just to enjoy the art. Also visit the Bracci chapel, and admire its frescos and the cross of St. Francis of Assisi.

As luck would have it, there is a special exhibition in the basement of the church: L’oro nei Secoli della collezione Castellani (open until 2nd November). The exhibition showcases the work of the Castellani family during the 19th century – master goldsmiths that specialized in recreating archaeological jewellery designs. The pieces are divine and the workmanship outstanding. Here is information on the exhibit and the family.

http://www.artemagazine.it/arte-clas...-archeologico/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fortunato_Pio_Castellani

Time for a late lunch, and I certainly needed a glass of wine. My guidebook suggested Ristorante I Tre Bicchieri, Piazzetta Sopra il Ponte 3. I called the restaurant for directions, which were incomprehensible, and wandered for ages, but finally found it outside the old town, and in an alleyway beside a bank. In hindsight, I should have just sat down in one of the myriad of decent restaurants within the old town. However, the food overall was good. I started with the Tuscany bruschetta selection, which was a bit heavy for a warm day, but was very tasty, and followed with an excellent pasta al vongole, plus two glasses of red wine and a bottle of water. It was a very reasonable bill, and very friendly service. I would definitely try this restaurant again, and would love to have dinner there. Definite ‘thumbs-up’.

http://www.ristoranteitrebicchieri.com/

I wandered back up the Corso Italia, through very deserted streets, to the Pieve Santa Maria, a beautiful facade, church built in the 12th century in the Romanesque style.

http://www.medioevo.org/artemedieval...ediArezzo.html

I heard singing, and bad Catholic that I am, I suddenly realized that I had forgotten it was Good Friday, and the locals were in church doing the Stations of the Cross. I joined them, and participated for the first time in God knows how many years. I was late (it starts at 3 pm), and only caught the last three stations. The faithful varied in ages from babies in prams to the very ancient and infirm, and I was surprised at how many teenagers and 20-40s were there.

It was beautiful, and despite my long absence, I still remembered the response and the tune – Ora pro Nobis – pray for us. Joyful childhood memories flooded back, the years I spent in the choir, singing Gregorian Chant and celebrating the Easter Mid-Night Mass. Isn’t it extraordinary when you travel to a foreign land and find you have something in common with the locals?

As the worshippers faded away, I explored this gorgeous church, inside and out, and there is much to see. It is a real treasure.

I walked back up to the Piazza Grande, to the Palazzo del Tribunale (the Court House), and climbed the stairs up to the bell town for a rather lovely view of the Piazza and the surrounding countryside.

Onwards to the beautiful Palazzo Pretorio, a wonderful example of Arezzo’s medieval architecture. But, my energy was flagging and my feet hurting, as I had made a very novice mistake of wearing new shoes for my day in Arezzo. So, I just admired the exterior, but did not visit.

I wanted to see the Duomo, and its legendary windows. So I climbed a bit higher, got lost, and the finally found it. How could one miss it, it is a behemoth of a building. There is a lovely view of Tuscany from the gardens at the side. Inside the church, it was dark, as it was Good Friday. Hint: I used to carry a small torch and opera glasses for these occasions, so consider for your travels if you intend to explore churches. While the exterior is rather ugly, in my opinion, the interior is quite significant and rather lovely. The windows are definitely worth a visit, although in the fading light, I did not get the best view of them. There is a beautiful fresco of Mary Magdalene by Piero della Francesca, and a very colourful rose window on Descent of the Holy Spirit from the early 16th century. I wish I had more time to spend here, and I wish I had come earlier in the day.

I was frustrated – there was so much more I wanted to see in Arezzo, and angry with myself for not making it an entire day-trip, at the very least. I would have prepared to stay here overnight. The town just called out to me, I simply loved it. But, I had to head back to Firenze.

Here are some photos. Let me know if your can access, as this is the first time I have used this site (click on View Album – there are 80 photos):

https://arezzo18042014.shutterfly.com/pictures#n_5

I took the train at about 6pm for the journey back to Firenze. Took a taxi back to the hotel, opened the windows to breath in that sweet air, fell into bed, and went comatose.

Next: Rain, rain and more rain, and an itinerary adjustment.

Hi again O'Reilly,

Loved reading about your experience in Arezzo.

"I heard singing, and bad Catholic that I am, I suddenly realized that I had forgotten it was Good Friday, and the locals were in church doing the Stations of the Cross. I joined them, and participated for the first time in God knows how many years. I was late (it starts at 3 pm), and only caught the last three stations."

That sounds like a memorable experience.

Looking forward to more....

lovely to read about your visit to Arezzo, Ger. I don't think we'll be getting there this year, but it's definitely on my list.

Jumping on board...

Hi Ger! Loving your report!

I am going to have to put Arezzo on the list for next trip. Sounds great. Pics lovely!

I've got to get in gear and get my TR done, too. You've inspired me. (That's a lie- you make me feel guilty. However, I have an excuse. My most-beloved kitty was quite ill when I arrived home and I had to put him to sleep four days ago. I'm overwhelmed with grief, to say the least. But promise to get started soon!)

Best!
Paula

Oh Paula, I am so very sorry. I understand the heartbreak of loosing a beloved pet (many times, cats and dogs). Sending you massive hugs my dear lady.

I look forward to your trip report. I loved meeting up with you, and hope we shall do so again.

Warmest regards ... Ger

Ger, You really have me itching to get back to Italy. Great report.

sarge...sorry to hear about your kitty...I have one on borrowed time right now.

((H))

Thanks Maitaitom. I am in that post-trip depression phase, and writing the trip report is therapy. It does not help that it is pi$$ing out of the heavens here in London, and cold as November :(.

Brava, OReilly. DH and I hit Arezzo at siesta time so no church and the big piazza was torn up undergoing repairs. Thanks for showing what we missed!

Too bad we weren't in London at the same time.

Saturday April 19th

I had considered travelling to Siena today, but I checked the weather the night before, and discovered that there would be heavy rain, not the best conditions to walk around. I decided to see how I felt next morning. I slept well and very deeply, forgot to set my alarm, and woke at 0730 to the sound of pelting rain. I still could have made it to the station to catch a 9-ish train to Siena, but didn’t really feel like it. I decided on a day in Florence, and did a quick review of sites I wanted to visit, where I could spend as much of the day inside as possible.

I caught the hotel bus to the city at 0900, and was deposited at the Arno at about 0920, then hurried to the P. St. Croze, grabbed taxi to San Marco (if I forget to mention later, the major taxi ranks are to be found at S. Croce, Repubblica, Duomo, San Marco and Santa Maria Novell station). I reasoned that the rain would encourage people to stay indoors, and I would therefore have an opportunity to enjoy San Marco absence the crowds. I was right! I walked right in, and the only other visitors were a gaggle of teenagers from the Nodics with their teacher, and they were very polite and well behaved.

Museum San Marco

This museum is so very wonderful, and thank you annhig for the recommendation. Here is the website:

http://www.polomuseale.firenze.it/en/musei/?m=sanmarco

I suggest you buy the book (6 Euros) from the shop before entering – excellent photographs, but very poor text.

The ‘Pilgrims Hospice Room’, just to the right of the entrance, contains an astonishing collection of works by Fra Angelico between 1430-1450, all divine with vibrant colours, but there were three of particular note for me.

The first is the ‘Last Judgement’, where the Heavenly court arbitrates and decides on those that will be elevated to Heaven, and those condemned to Hell. There is probably an appropriate biblical text I should quote, but we were not big on the bible in my family, so I can just interpret what I personally saw in the painting. What interested me was that on the right-hand side of the painting, those condemned to Hell, included at least two monks and a cardinal/bishop. How brave was he to suggest that God’s holy anointed could be condemned to Hell.

The second is the ‘Doors of the Silverware Cupboard’ (not a promising title for such an extraordinary work). Each panel is approximately page-size, beautifully executed and it is a wonderful narrative, from the Annunciation to the Resurrection, which was appropriate for the Easter weekend.

The third is a set of three small panels (Lorenzo Monaco?), which are remarkable, as they are almost modern and surrealistic. Just a very personal perspective.

Exiting the room, you find yourself in the cloisters, where every bay is decorated by frescos, some better than others, but all lovely, Once again, I would recommend a pair or opera glasses or small binoculars to see the detail.

I spent a couple of hours exploring San Marco, and there were many more highlights, including Fra Angelico’s Annunciation and the Crucifixion, the monk’s dormitories, decorated with the frescos, everyone a gem. I visited Savonarola’s cell, of the ‘Bonfire of the Vanities’ fame, complete with his accessories, including his ‘hair shirt’ – I have intense dislike of this 15th Century Taliban-style terrorist.

Do visit the ‘Former Lodge’: It contains a selection of stone architraves rescued from the destruction of old Florence in the 19th century (around the P. Repubblica I think, and including the old Jewish Ghetto). In among the bits and pieces from medieval domestic dwellings and Catholic churches, I found stonework with Hebrew inscriptions, which may have come from the Synagogue. Who knows - all information on the pieces is written in Italian, so I am only guessing. It did remind me to add the Firenze Synagogue to my list of ‘must see’ places.

I would have spent more time in the museum, but the crowds were coming in, so I needed to leave. Schedule at least 2.5 hours at San Marco, and do it early in the morning to avoid the crowds, so you can appreciate the works.

I reluctantly left San Marco, and it was still raining.

Next: Santa Croce, other churches, and a long lunch.

so glad you enjoyed San Marco, Ger. I didn't buy the book, which was probably a mistake. Your experience was the same as mine in respect of other people there - there were very few people when I got there at about 8.30, and not very many more when I left about 2 hours later.

What a luxury to be able to look at these treasures, even the hair shirt, in peace and quiet.

looking forward to your long lunch!

Ger, again your prose urges me to put this one on my list. :) I recently read a historical novel that had this monster (Savonarola) at its center, so this will add to that read, for sure.

Sorry to hear of your crappy weather. Sunny and 90's here the next seven days. (33C)! Do come visit Texas some time. :)

On a side note, maitaitom- so sorry you have a sick kitty. I know you've had the worst w travel/pet worries. :( I am thankful Puck waited until I got home. He was completely stoic. I got his ashes back yesterday and know he'll always be with me in spirit. But he was my special boy and it's going to be tough for awhile. :(. Hang in there!

Ger- can't wait for more!!!