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"Museum San Marco"
I had forgotten how much I really liked that museum. As Bob Hope might say (if he were still alive), "Thanks for the memories!" ((H)) |
O'Reilly, great description of San Marco. Gracias.
Hope that you had good weather sometime before you left Florence. :) |
Hello guys:
Beth: Jump in anytime with your comments. Hugs TDudette: Unfortunate timing, as always happens in Italy. Its worth a visit next time you explore Tuscany. Annhig: The text in the book is appalling and incomprehensible (reminds me of Babblefish translations from a decade ago) but the book pictorially shows the highlights of the exhibition very well. You might be better off purchasing the Italian version, and translating for yourself. I thank you for the restaurant recommendation :). Sarge: Re Savonarola, I just weep at all the beautiful art and crafts treasures that were lost in his ‘Bonfire of the Vanities’ – unforgiveable. If a God created a human, and endowed the human with the gift of creating things of beauty, how could beautiful objects be a sin against the God? What is the book BTW? Weather is getting better here in London, and we anticipate a warm long weekend. Glad that Puck (what a great name) hung in for your return so you could say goodbye. I know how difficult this is, so what can I say? Hugs Maitaitom: You are welcome. I equally enjoyed your London/UK trip report. Latedaytraveler: Weather got better and worse, but all was good, because I decided to be flexible with my itinerary. Thank you all for your feed-back, as it encourages me, or perhaps shames me, to complete the report. Best to all ... Ger |
O'Reilly, good reminder for any traveler:
"Weather got better and worse, but all was good, because I decided to be flexible with my itinerary." |
Ger, reading this has been great.
On the "other end" of seasons, I couldn't believe, when I lived in Florence, that people broke out their fur coats in September. To me, it was the kind of weather in which one started out in the morning wearing a sweater, and by noon one was so warm the cardigan came off. "Dopo cena" in the evening, if going for a walk, one might need to don a sweater again, but I simply couldn't fathom the fur coat. (Well, ever, actually, but especially in September.) I'm glad to hear of your hotel stay especially. I was trying to think of a website I used to use when I had last-minute travel changes, and would book myself into hotels with certain star ratings or amenities and in certain areas of my selected city. It may have been lastminute, but I'm not certain. And I'm so glad to were able to see the exploding cart! Once you've seen it, you never forget it. Savonarola's influence can be seen especially in Sandro Botticelli's works. They transform from "Primavera" and "Birth of Venus" to the "Mystical Nativity", hence the sensuous to the more sacred in nature. To be denounced by this monk, though, surely meant certain professional death, and I can appreciate how artists feared him. Looking forward to more. BC |
Saturday April 19th : Santa Croce
After a short taxi ride, I arrived at the well-loved Basilica Santa Croce. http://www.museumsinflorence.com/mus...a_s_croce.html I have visited previously, and it as always been a highlight, specifically because of the Giotto frescos – who can resist the delights of Giotto? It was still pelting rain, but there was no line-up for entrance, so I got straight in. I could not rent the free audio/video guide, as I had not brought my passport. This happened a few more times during the visit, so please take note – bring your passport if you want to rent the audio/visual guide. On entering, I ran straight up to the Bardi and Peruzzi chapels to see the Giotto frescos. I was standing there, entranced by the frescos, when an Italian lady approached me, waved at the frescos, and I think asked me the painter’s name. ‘Giotto’ , I said, hoping I was answering her question. She turned to her friends and said ‘Giotto!’ They all smiled and thanked me. I felt pretty cool that I was providing advice to Italians in Santa Croce! Here are some images: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ba...w=1062&bih=558 And information on Giotto: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giotto I love this church, every inch of wall contains a jewel, be it a fresco or a memorial tomb. The large square outside the church is simpatico, and conjures images of medieval life. I do love this area, and was destined to return a few more times during my visit. It was still raining when I exited the church, so I needed to secure a nice place for lunch, which, given the weather, would be a long one. Before I had left the hotel that morning, I had checked out a posting from annhig, re a lovely neighbourhood restaurant in Sante Croce, on the Borgo Santa Croce – the Trattoria il Giova, which sounded perfect, as the day called for robust food and wine: http://www.ilgiova.com/contatti.html I walked from Sante Croce Church, through the streets in a really lovely neighbourhood, noted it for future trips, and located the restaurant. I booked a table for 45 minutes hence, as there were a couple of churches I wanted to briefly visit before my lunch. The first was just a 2 minute walk from the restaurant – Sant’ Ambrogio. It is situated in a small square, with avenues radiating from it, like sunbursts, and it is at the heart of the community. There were traders selling their goods, and even one of those wagons selling tripe. I remembered my Nana, who loved tripe boiled in milk and onions – absolutely vile. She claimed it was a cure for stomach ulcers, and used to force-feed it to my father. It’s a lovely local church serving the community, dating from the 13th century, has some interesting frescos and art-work, and contains a splendid tabernacle from the 15th century. If this were my ‘local church’, I’d be a regular attendee on Sunday. I’d like to live in this little village in Firenze. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sant'Ambrogio,_Florence The second, the Santa Maria Magdallena dei Pazzi, is about 7 minutes walk from the restaurant, and is decorated in high Baroque style – not my favourite style, but you have to admire its artistry. The church was in darkness, as it was the Saturday before Easter Sunday and awaiting the ‘Light’ at midnight mass, so the Chapterhouse was closed. Well worth a visit. Next: Lunch, wandering and the Bargello |
Saturday April 19th : Lunch and the Bargello
Time for lunch, so I retraced my steps to il Giova. It is a small, neighbourhood restaurant with about 10 tables (24 people?), and that lunchtime about four of the tables were occupied. I ordered a glass of house red (very good) and a bottle of water as I perused the menu, which was in Italian. I could make out most of it, and the owner translated the occasional word I couldn’t. The menu is very meat-based, so not an ideal choice of restaurant for a vegetarian. I ordered a ricotta/spinach stuffed ravioli with truffle oil to start, followed by what we could call a ‘rib-eye’ (I think?) as the main course, with a mushroom topping. I had come prepared for a long lunch - I brought my iPad loaded with the second series of the Walking Dead. As soon as I took my iPad out, the owner gave me the wifi details, which was unexpected but welcome, so I was able to get on-line. The Senora, who speaks excellent English, quizzed me on what I was watching. I was embarrassed to tell her, as I should have been watching Fellini, but she responded –‘The zombies, my daughter loves that!’. Jeez, talk about the Global Village :) . The starter was delicious, if a bit too large – half would have sufficed. I ordered another glass of red as I waited for the main course, and watched my series, as the rain continued to pour down outside. The steak was large, perfectly cooked for me (rare-medium) and delicious. The mushroom topping was ill-advised, and a bit too strong. Again, the portion was a little too large. It was still raining hard, so a good excuse for another glass of wine, and another episode of The Walking Dead. This was my first two-hour, three-glass of wine lunch in a long time, and I was enjoying the decadence of it. When the rain finally eased up, I asked for the bill, and it was accompanied by a glass of lemoncello. The bill was ridiculously small for what I had eaten and drunk. I highly recommend this restaurant for good honest food and excellent friendly service. I was just a tad giddy leaving the restaurant, and needed a long walk. So I wandered around the streets between Santa Croce and the Historic Centre. Many shops were decked out for Easter, and the locals were doing last-minute shopping. Santa Croce is a really nice neighbourhood, and I am sure their antecedents, going back to the middle-ages, probably engaged in similar rituals. There is a sense of continuity in these streets. It looked like rain again, and, as luck would have it, I found myself outside the Bargello (have been before, but always worth another visit). There were no line-ups, so I bought my ticket and entered. http://www.museumsinflorence.com/mus..._bargello.html http://www.polomuseale.firenze.it/ In addition to the wonderful standing collection, there was an added bonus of an exhibition of Baccio Bandinelli and his contemporaries. I had never heard of him before. Here is a very scathing review of him in the Guardian (often very pompous): http://www.theguardian.com/artanddes...aissance-italy And another that is quite positive, a forgotten artist of the Renaissance: http://www.tickitaly.com/blog/2014/03/2363/ Who am I to judge? Make up your own mind. I enjoyed it, there a few other artists thrown into the mix, and the room is well laid out and documented. Then on to the main exhibitions, floor by floor., and I visited every room. You must give this museum half a day. I explored it all, until I was footsore. Highlights for me on this visit were as follows: Michelangelo’s Bacchus: It is such an amusing statue of the inebriated god, and the wicked little brat behind him sucking on the grapes. After consuming three glasses of wine and a lemoncello, I was simpatico with Bacchus. The Ivories Room: All wonderful, but seek out the Byzantine pieces in particular - the Diptych of Adam and St. Paul is quite extraordinary. Work of this calibre was not seen again until the Renaissance IMO. The Donatello Hall: I had seen Donatello’s David before, and marvelled at it. However, I had never had the opportunity to compare it to Michelangelo’s David, which I had seen the day before. Well, comparison is probably unfair, but I could not resist. Donatello’s David is certainly beautiful, but does not have the machismo, charisma and quiet arrogance of Michelangelo’s David. The ringlets and silly hat does not help – its like Auntie Gladys is in her garden to dead-head her petunias. I am being very wicked and unkind, and apologize. Donatello’s David is divine, and the whole gallery is breath-taking. The Giovanni della Robbia Rooms: It took me a while to appreciate the mastery of the della Robbias, as it is a bit too garish for my taste. However, now I am a devotee. I particularly loved the Portrait of a Young Girl. The Verrocchio Room: Noblewomen with Bouquet. The hands, the lace, the way the dress falls on the body – the fabric must be the finest of silk or tissue muslin (was it called Swiss Lawn?). It is one of those marble statues that you feel compelled to touch. How can an artist convey movement of fabric in marble? It was a great visit, and I had completely sobered up. It was raining again when I left the Bargello, and I made my way back toward P. Sante Croce to pick up the bus back to the hotel. I had sufficient time to catch the 1730, but was thinking about doing something else, and catching the 1830 bus. As I stood in P. Sante Croce under my umbrella, I took out my guidebook, opened up the map, and a pigeon SHAT on it. Well, I often believe that there is such a thing as divine intervention, and clearly a pigeon was sending me a very definite message to get back to the hotel. I walked to the Hotel Lucchesi in time to pick up the 1730 bus to my hotel. That night, as I was thinking about my planning for the rest of the trip, I realized that I should not be so rigid. Today had been a great success, as I had worked within the confines imposed by the weather. The weather over the next few days would alternate between sunny and rainy, and I had to adjust accordingly. Here are some pictures of the day: https://florence19042014.shutterfly.com/pictures/8 Tomorrow: A gloriously sunny Easter Sunday, a parade, and an exploding cart. |
Hi O'Reilly,
Great report with so many details. "Santa Croce is a really nice neighbourhood, and I am sure their antecedents, going back to the middle-ages, probably engaged in similar rituals. There is a sense of continuity in these streets." I had the same feeling when I visited on a rather drear winter day some years ago. Loved the description of your leisurely lunch and later observation at the Bargello Museum that"After consuming three glasses of wine and a lemoncello, I was simpatico with Bacchus." Touche! Nice pics too. Noticed an Irish pub among them - for future reference... |
A very detailed report that I am loving.
Enjoyed your photos. I would have liked to buy those two monkeys. |
Ger - i am so pleased that you enjoyed il Giova - and spent so long there!
lovely pics too. |
OMG- I keep waiting for a pigeon to target me, but (thank heavens!), it has never happened. I hope it was a laminated map. haha :)
I love your descriptions of the art you like/don't like. I, too, marvel at sculpture with fabric that surely "moves". It is mind-boggling sometimes! |
Wonderful, OReilly!
I think that 'lawn' is an Egyptian cotton. Can't think of the origin though. At one time (perhaps yet?) Egyptian cottons were considered the best in the world. Just googled it and wiki suggests 'lawn' comes from town Laon and that the fabric was originally linen. |
Sunday April 20th – Easter Sunday.
Below is a link for the photos for todayare photos from the day. https://florence20042014.shutterfly.com/pictures/9 There were two potential highlights for the day – the ‘Scoppio del Carro’ and meeting up with Paula (Sarge56) at the P. Michelangelo. The Procession and the "Scoppio del Carro" blowout of the chariot ceremony. It was a gloriously sunny day, and after the poor weather the day before, I was enthusiastic to explore Florence in its finery. I took the hotel bus into the Florence and made my way to the Palazzo della Signoria. I had missed the beginning of the Parade (it must start at around 9am), because I had not done my research, so don’t let this happen to you. Although I knew about the exploding chart in from of the Duomo, I was not aware that the procession started from there, so I only caught the tail-end of the procession, but it was delightful all the same! The cart, built in 1622 and standing two to three stories high, is pulled by a pair of oxen decorated in garlands through the streets of Florence to the Duomo. The chariot is accompanied by a historical parade of locals in Renaissance costumes, preceded by drummers and flags, each flag representing different districts of the city. Apparently there is flag-tossing, but I missed that :(. The participants looked as if they had stepped straight out of a Renaissance painting; when stripped of the vestiges of the modern world, they looked identical to their ancestors (note: In my research, I discovered there is a ‘Tuscan gene’ (not the technical term obviously) so many of these people are directly descended from the original tribes that settled this area in the 12th century B.C. – talk about continuity!). I followed the procession through the streets, which did not seem that crowded and was soon to discover that was because, at this stage, the cart was in place outside the Duomo, and the crowds assembling. But I did get to meet the gorgeous white bulls, as you can see from the photos. On to the Duomo. I was somewhat concerned about the crowds that might be around the square, and was proven right. As I approached the Duomo, I got caught up in a surge of people that pushed me onwards, and was unable to extract myself. I could barely breathe because of the crush. People were standing on benches, and all I could see was the back of their knees. I tried to fight my way out, as it would be impossible to see anything from where I was, but was like a salmon swimming up-stream in mating season. I was getting panicked and hot and sweaty. After getting particularly aggressive in my pushing, I finally broke free. The Duomo was on my left, so I bolted for the side door, and inside the relative quiet and cool of the church, there were people flocking around the main aisle in preparation for the ceremony. I took up a reasonable position, where I could not see the entire cart, but behaviour was reasonably civilized compared to the outside. The ceremony started with a procession from the church of priests and the bishop to the forecourt. There were prayers and hymns, in the best Catholic tradition, for a long time. Then a long procession back into the church, the religious and the civil authorities of the city, some more prayers, and then the games began! I couldn’t see this, but apparently, a priest lights a fuse, attached to a small papier-mache figurine, representing a dove, which runs along a wire inside the church, to ignite the chariot, and the fireworks begin. I saw the dove flying down the wire. The fireworks continued for ages , and the was a truly a spectacular sight, even with my limited view. Another Fodorite, in the audience outside, had a better view than I, so she should jump on this thread and describe her view of it – come on Paula (Sarge56)! The ceremony is such an extraordinary fusion of the Pagan and the Catholic, and some form of it was probably celebrated long before the dawn of Christianity. I love watching ceremonies that date back to our ancient pagan roots, adapted by Christianity, and used for their purposes. For example, in Ireland, the cult of the Virgin Mary and Saint Brigid was strong, because it replaced the worship of the pagan Goddesses, and former worship sites for these Goddesses were ‘re-labelled’ as shrines to both. The ceremony is also a testament to the Florentine precarious (at the time) celebration of the religious and the profane, as in the pursuit of money. This experience is ‘up there’ as one of my favourite travel experiences, but I did not plan well. For future reference, for those if you that are organized, I suggest getting to Palazzo della Signoria for 0830 to enjoy the organization of the procession, then follow along. At some point, leave the procession, and get to the Duomo to secure a good position to see the fireworks, either inside or outside. Sarge56, as an ex-Marine and a tall person, found a good position outside, and stood her ground, and had a better view than I had. As a short person, I’d prefer a good position inside the Duomo. Next: Wandering, lunch, Oltrano and P. Michelangelo. |
bookchick: You are a great writer , and you should write us a story about your experiences living in Florence for a year - How wonderful that must have been. I will check out the Botticelli story - many thanks.
Latedaytraveler: <good reminder for any traveller: Weather got better and worse, but all was good, because I decided to be flexible with my itinerary.>. Yes, you are right. When travelling, we have to make some difficult decisions, and accept that we must be flexible, and perhaps miss highlights that we thought un-missible, and just make the best of it, and perhaps explore an even better alternative journey. It was an interesting lesson for me. <After consuming three glasses of wine and a lemoncello, I was simpatico with Bacchus.>. OK, I admit I was a little inebriate, which only made my appreciation of Bacchus a more ‘personal’ experience:) . Mimi: I have a particular treat for you in a few days – a visit to the Guicci museum, with pictures. I was thinking of you and my sister F, because I know you would both adore it. Annhig: Thanks for the recommendation – it was a perfect place to spend a couple of hours, and the food was really good Sarge56: According to my Nana, old Dublin wisdom said if a bird shat on you, it was good luck, and generally meant money in your future. I got back to learn that my company are giving out bonuses this year. Please jump on the thread re your experience of the exploding cart – you had a much better view than I had. TDuddette: Thank you. I think Egyptian cotton for sheets are still considered the best. There was a particular muslin fabric, I think coming from India at the time, very fine and delicate, that was mimicked in Europe later. Best regards ... Ger |
Thank you so much for the detailed report, and the many very useful links. You've given me a head start on planning for next year!
Yvonne |
Hi O'Reilly,
What great pics and descriptions of Easter morning in Florence. Enjoyed the familiar backdrops like the Palazzo della Signoria and the Duomo. Loved the costumes and pageantry. And let's not forget the bedecked white bulls (?) oxen (?) "The participants looked as if they had stepped straight out of a Renaissance painting; when stripped of the vestiges of the modern world, they looked identical to their ancestors." Touche. Obviously you secured a good seat in the Duomo to get such great closeup shots. I will share your photos with a few dear friends who love Florence. Look forward to more... |
Nice shots and enjoyable TR, OReilly.
"The ceremony is such an extraordinary fusion of the Pagan and the Catholic, and some form of it was probably celebrated long before the dawn of Christianity." Don't quote me, but I think the first church leaders did incorporate pagan practices. |
Ger, thanks for the props! :) If I'd known the bird "shat" would get me some $, I'd have volunteered long ago! hahah
I will give a thorough description and have pictures and video to share of the "Scoppio del Carro" in my trip report. I hope to have it done this weekend. (I had over 400 photos I had to sift through and tag, so a bit of a chore.) For your fans, I'll just confide that getting to the Piazza del Duomo by 9am should garner you a spot at the barricade. However, as you stated, the "crush" starts around 9:30, and you must be prepared to a) stand your ground and b) stand- period- for over 2 hours. The procession of young men in period costume showed up in the Piazza del Duomo almost precisely at 9:30. The actual "explosion of the cart" commences at 11am. In between, there is much pomp and circumstance, including the cardinal's blessing of the crowd and firemen applying safety measures for the event. When my TR is posted, I'll (with your permission) float back here and provide a link. :) You're a hoot and I hope you'll come visit me in Texas soon! Paula PS My taxi driver in Florence (for a trip up to Sal Mineato) assured me that the "Scoppio del Carro" was deeply rooted in religious culture in Florence and dated back at least 600 years. I now have a curiosity to do more research on this event to find out exactly how/when it actually started. :) |
Hey, Ger, are you coming back to finish your TR??? :)
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Hi Paula:
Sorry, my trip report was interrupted by a business trip to Belgium, followed by a weekend in Paris :). I am now up to my ears with a client, on-site every day this week, which is impeding my opportunity to update the report. I intend to finish it at the weekend. best regards ... Ger |
nice to know you're so busy, Ger. In these straightened times we need to make the most of those sorts of opportunities - especially if you can squeeze Paris in as well!
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Wandering, lunch, Oltrano and P. Michelangelo
I wandered for a while around the crowded streets, and started to think about lunch, as the crowds were irritating me. I had read about the Fusion Bar in the Ferregamo hotel, specializing in sushi and a blend of far eastern and Italian flavours. I was desperate for some good Asian food, as I hadn’t had a chilli for days, and had a real craving. The hotel is situation on the Via dell’Oro, just a short walk from the Palazzo della Signoria: http://www.lungarnocollection.com/en...-florence.html Unfortunately, the restaurant was only serves sandwiches and salads for lunch, so no luck there, but definitely worth checking out for dinner, and I would dearly like to stay at this hotel one day. Next on my list was the Four Seasons. Annhig had written of it in one of her trip reports and reported a delicious buffet, including oysters, and all the champagne and wine you could drink for 70 Euros – jeeze, I have often racked up a bill of 70 Euros on oysters and champagne alone,so they would not make a profit on me. So, I walked to the Four Seasons, which is about a 15 minute walk from the Duomo. What a stunning hotel, and when I win the lottery, I will definitely stay there. I asked to see the menu. All-inclusive lunch was not available, it was a la carte, and the prices were outrageous, as one would expect. A quick calculation of the prices on the lunch menu indicated that, with wine, I was unlikely to get out of there short of about 150 Euros, so I decided to leave, and walk back to the Historic Centre. Third choice was La Posta, a traditional Tuscan restaurant situated around P. Della Republica. I was in the general area, but couldn’t find it, so I called and, luckily, the man who answered spoke perfect English, and directed me – when I got close, I saw him waving at me . No wonder I couldn’t find it, as it is in a small side-street opposite the main entrance to the Post Office (hence the name). It was warm and sunny, so I took a table outside in a nice shaded garden terrace, ordered a Prosecco and bottle of water, and reviewed the menu. I ordered the pasta alla Vongole to start, and the special Lamb lunch with peas, and a half-bottle of a decent red. I was in for a long lunch! The pasta was excellent – its a simple dish, but sometimes not well executed. The wine was very good, but probably not the most sensible choice on a hot sunny day, but what the hell, I was on holidays. The lamb was good, but it wasn’t lamb IMO, it was hogget, a young sheep about 1-2 years old. I am very ‘precious’ about lamb, and the best lamb I have tasted has been from Ireland, Wales, Spain and Quebec (the very best). I am generally disappointed with lamb in Italy and France – its just not as tasty or sweet. Overall, I would recommend this restaurant – food was good, environment and service excellent. Sarge56 was in Florence, and we had been texting, and had agreed to meet that evening at P. Michelangelo, at about 1900, to enjoy the sunset. So, I made my way to the Oltrano, and explored. The side streets were wonderful, but as soon as I approached the streets around the Ponte Vecchio, it was crowded and awful. Footsore and tired, I took a taxi up to the P. Michelangelo. I had been there a couple of times, when it was peaceful. I was not prepared for the cacophony of it on a long weekend. It reminded me of a song by Christy Moore – Lisdoonvarna (which only the Irish may appreciate): The multitudes, they flocked in throngs To hear the music and the songs. Motorbikes and Hi-ace vans, With bottles – barrels – flagons – cans. Mighty craic. Loads of frolics, Pioneers and alcoholics, PLAC, SPUC and the FCA, Free Nicky Kelly and the IRA. Hairy chests and milk-white thighs, Mickey dodgers in disguise. Mc Graths, O’Briens, Pippins, Coxs, Massage parlours in horse boxes. There’s amhráns, bodhráns, amadáns, Arab sheiks, Hindu Sikhs, Jesus freaks, RTE are makin’ tapes, takin’ breaks and throwin’ shapes. This is heaven, this is hell. Who cares? Who can tell? (Anyone for the last few Choc Ices, now?) OK, definitely an exaggeration, but it was really unpleasant – don’t go there at the weekend! I got table at a bar, and ordered a bottle of water. Then, I got a text from Sarge to say she was unwell, and would probably not be able to make it. Very disappointing, but we agreed to meet up at another time. I grabbed a taxi back to the pick-up point for the bus back to my hotel, and planned my trip to Lucca the next day. Next Lucca in the rain. |
Ger - sorry that the four Seasons let you down; it might have been that because it was Easter, they weren't doing the set price lunches. i've never found their websites very good at telling you about these "bargains" when they do have them - I've always had to e-mail and ask about them specifically.
I agree about the Piazzale Michelangelo - it was madness when i was there to, but the bar, under its north-west corner, was a haven of peace, perhaps because of its prices! PS - only half a bottle of red? you weren't really trying! |
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bookmarking to read when I have more time.
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More please here, and for Paris!
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Sorry. I am working on the next instalment, but work is getting the way.
In the meantime, here are my photos of Lucca: The Photos: https://lucca21042014.shutterfly.com/pictures/143 Best regards ... Ger |
OReilly, thanks for the great pics of Lucca. Been to Italy several times but never made it there - always curious. Towers reminiscent of San G.
This may sound like a dumb question, but I will ask it anyway. When a person posts on Shutterfly which suggests "order prints," who gets the remuneration? I am not into photography and don't know how these sites work. |
Meant to add that I am looking forward to your Paris adventure....
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Ger- disappointed by the Four Seasons and ME on the same day! How rude! ;)
I've got to finish my Florence piece and I'm done with mine. Hope you have time in the near future to browse some of my pics (and what were we thinking that we didn't take a selfie after lunch????... too much wine! haha). |
Hello all:
I'll post an update tonight. I am off to Dublin for a long weekend tomorrow morning - family party :) annhig: thanks for that link. I am hope it was not available Easter weekend, and I didn't miss it! TDudette: working on it! Latedaytrveller: No idea, but I assume the site will get the revenue. Yep, I will try to write a report on Paris, before I forget it :). Hello Paula: I was VERY depleted that day :). I am saving your trip report for this weekend, and looking forward to reading it. Where next? I am committed to doing a long weekend somewhere at least once a month. So wonderful to meet you and we need to do it again soon. Best regards Ger |
Lucca in the Rain: Monday 21st
Weather forecast predicted a rainy day in Lucca, but, but I wanted to do it anyway. I absolutely needed to get out of Florence and its hordes. I took the 1010 from Florence, and arrived at about noon. It was a short walk from the station to the walled city. What a delight, despite the inclement weather! I walked around the walls for a bit, and was annoyed that I had not set out earlier, so I could do the entire circuit. There was intermittent light rain, so I decided to walk the town before the light rain became a deluge. I wandered around the town, enjoying the market, shops and the wonderful churches, and fell in love with this town, and would defiantly consider an overnight stay. Architecturally, it is quite lovely, and an almost intact medieval town, with elements added from other eras, in very good taste. The architecture suggests a long history of confidence and affluence. Check out the photos of my tour of Lucca. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucca Time for lunch, as it was starting to pelt down. I had made a booking at the Giglo: http://www.ristorantegiglio.com/temp...io.com/static/ I sat outside, under the awning, as the rain continued to pour down. Enterprising Africans were selling umbrellas, and were doing a brisk trade. I ordered my favourite to start, Pasta alla Vongole, and Sea Bass to follow. Both were excellent, and accompanied by two glasses of white wine and a bottle of water. By the end of the meal, the rain had stopped, although it was still dark and cloudy and a little cool. My first stop was the magnificent Cathedral of San Martino, a stunning building, built and added to from the 12th -15th century. http://www.italyguides.it/us/italy/t...-st-martin.htm The facade is as beautiful as any I have seen, and the carvings very fine, and almost move before your eyes. The interior is splendid, and there is much to see, but I will call out two pieces. The Tomb of Ilaria del Carreto - a very delicate and beautiful portrait in marble of a young woman. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ilaria_del_Carretto). The Holy Face, contained in a magnificent and highly ornate temple. This is “an effigy, believed to have been carved by Nicodemus, as the time of Christ’s Crucifixion” (according to my guild book). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holy_Face_of_Lucca. It has an interesting legend. Story to continue when I visited the museum. After an hour of enjoying this monumental piece of architectural extravagance, I went next door to visit the cathedral museum, where the real valuables are stored – don’t miss it - it has treasures from the 11th century. The most stunning treasures are on the ground floor, an entire ‘dress-up box’ of gold artefacts (14th – 17th century) that adorn the Holy Face, when it is taken on parade on the 13th September every year. There is a crown, a necklace, and a skirt, all beautifully crafted, by masters. I had two reactions to this: Firstly, that I would love to see the procession; Secondly, that it is rather obscene to dress the Crucified Christ, a poor carpenter from Galilee and all he preached, in these fine and expensive vestments. Next: More of Lucca |
annhig: thanks for that link. I am hope it was not available Easter weekend, and I didn't miss it!>>
lol, so do I, Ger. i suspect that it wasn't available over Easter and they didn't bother to amend the website; let's just tell ourselves that anyway shall we? thank you so much for sharing Lucca with us. DH and I spent about 1/2 a day there more years ago than I care to remember and found nothing to interest us. Yes, really. Clearly we didn't look very hard or very far. I am currently listening to a detective story in the car [a Thomas lindley mystery] that is partly set in Lucca so your report has helped me to visualise it. |
Wonderful shots, Ger. I loved the doors, windows, shutters and arch. details.
annhig, DH and i did the same. Arriving at siesta time was a partial explanation for us. |
TD - perhaps we got there at the wrong time, but after 30+ years, that sort of detail has got lost somehow!
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Next: More of Lucca
Apologies for the long absence – I came back to a while load of work, a trip to Dublin, a trip to Paris and then a whole load of more work! We continue ..... More of Lucca SS. Giovanni and Reparata http://www.turismo.intoscana.it/site...eparata-Lucca/ Yet another Church: It occurred to me that I had visited more churches over the last few days than I had in the last ten years, when I only go for baptisms and weddings, and thank God have not had to go for funerals. This one is very special, because of the opportunity to dive into the past – the many layers of Lucca. Inside the church, you can go underground for a fascinating look at the archaeological excavations dating from the first century BC through the eleventh century AD including Roman remains, part of an early Christian church, and a medieval crypt. Not to be missed. San Frediano: I made my way to Basilica of San Frediano: a beautiful gem, built in the Romanesque style in the 12th century, on an earlier church from the 6th century. There is so much to see, including the rather stunning facade, a spectacular baptismal font and some rather impressive frescos and paintings. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_di_San_Frediano I sat in the pews, behind a small tour group, just to enjoy the loveliness of the church, and overheard the tour guide telling the story of its foundation in the 6th century, and was delighted to learn that San Frediano, was a monk from Ireland. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fridianus This was during a period when Ireland was known as the ‘Isle of Saints and Scholars’, when Irish Monks travelled to Scotland, England, France, Germany and Italy, established monasteries and learning, and converted the pagan hoards. This was completely unexpected, but wonderful to know that a distant ‘cousin’ had been in this town fourteen centuries ago, and made is mark. I was proud! Anfiteatro Romano Next on to the iconic Lucca image. What can I say? Lots of restaurants, few of which I would want to dine in, and touristy shops. I did not linger for long, as there were hoards of people doing ‘selfies’. I would probably enjoy the lovely area in the ‘off-season’. http://www.italyguides.it/us/italy/t...anfiteatro.htm Torre dei Guinigi Needless to say, at this point I was foot-sore, and had diminished energy. Regardless, I had one more site that I had to see: http://www.turismo.intoscana.it/site...ower-in-Lucca/ I am fairly fit, so the climb was not awful, but it is challenging at the end of a long day of walking. Let me please advise you, that this should be your FIRST experience in Lucca, not the last, after six hours of walking, and a couple of glasses of wine. It is well worth the climb for the view of Lucca. San Michele http://www.italyguides.it/us/italy/t...le-in-foro.htm On my way back to the train station, I could not resist the opportunity to visit San Michele, which had been closed earlier in the day. Another jewel, with works from della Robbia and Lippi, surrounded by a perfect square. I had to dash to the station for the train back to Florence, as the skies opened up and the rain pelted down, picking up a bottle of local wine and a bit of cheese on the way for tonight’s repast. Lucca should not be a just day-trip from Florence; it is a destination in itself. There is so much that I didn’t see. I could easily spend three days or more in Lucca, spending some time exploring the surrounding region. Lucca: The Photos: https://lucca21042014.shutterfly.com/pictures/143 Next: Meeting Sarge, and other stuff |
Meeting Sarge56, and the Pitti Gllery
Florence: Tuesday 22nd This was the day I moved into Florence, to the Montebello Splendid, and had stayed there before: http://www.montebellosplendid.com/ I was a little sad to leave the Villa Omli, as it was perfect in so many ways: so peaceful, such great service, such a big room and such a wonderful bathroom! I highly recommend the Villa Omli: http://www.villaolmifirenze.com/en/ Taxi picked me up at 0900, and drove me to the Montebello Splendid. Excellent service, and lovely room, but about half the size of the Villa Omli, as one would expect. My itinerary was fairly fluid for today, as my main focus was meeting with Sarge for lunch! Pizzi Palace http://www.polomuseale.firenze.it/en...m=palazzopitti I wandered over to the Pitti Palace, which I had not visited for a decade. I had not booked, but the line did not look so bad, so I took my place. Within 20 minutes, I had bought my ticket and was in the door. First stop was the Costume Gallery. I was hoping for some historic costumes, from earlier times, but that was not to be. However, I was delighted with the collection of 20th century couturier outfits on display. I then walked through all of the rooms – yes all of them! There are some extraordinary works of art in every room, in addition to some works of art on the ceilings. The Pitti is overpowering on the senses! I got to a point of choosing my favourite artist in each room and appreciating just one painting. Its exhausting - they should take the major art works out, and place in a separate gallery, and leave the poor paintings in the Pitti, so one can ignore the paintings and concentrate on the interior design. Lunch with Sarge56 Sarge56 and I had missed the opportunity to meet at P. Michelangelo, as she was unwell. We agreed to meet at a restaurant in Oltrarno. I had read her posts, and thought she was someone I would travel with, or enjoy meeting on my travels, and she most certainly is! I knew her as soon as I saw her, and the two-hour lunch was fun from beginning to end, and far too brief. She is an extraordinarily person, strong and good, and I am so glad to have met her. I wish we had had more time to spend together, but she was off home the next day. Hugs Sarge, I hope we meet again in Europe :) |
Florence: Tuesday 22nd Evening
Having left Sarge56, I decided to use my Pitti Palace to walk around the Boboli gardens, and got hopelessly lost, but it was lovely, so late in the day, with so few people. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boboli_Gardens I wasn’t ready to go back to my hotel, so I wandered around the Oltrarno for a while, then over the bridge to the Piazza St. Croce Pizza. I felt a bit hungry, looked up my guide book, and discovered, just up the road, there was an excellent Neapolitan Pizza joint. Pizzaaliuolu, Via de' Macci 113/r, http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaur...e_Tuscany.html It was about 1930, and the restaurant was full, and there were line-ups for dinning in and take-out. I didn’t fancy my chances of getting a table, but for some reason the lovely hostess managed to squeeze me in. Excellent food, excellent wine, excellent service, unbelievably cheap! This is a MUST in Florence, particularly for families – book ahead. I took a taxi back to the hotel, to plan my trip to Fiesole, and the rest of the day. |
Hi OREILLY, glad you back and continuing your report. Waiting to hear about FIESOLE...
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