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GALICIA in June...four bases in nineteen days...
I hesitated about beginning this report, as this trip will contain a lot (I hope) of relaxation and not much sightseeing. I will keep its brief and as usual, food will be a priority.
We were in Galicia for about 8 days last May, prior to flying to Lanzarote and this year, my partner needed rest as he recovered from some minor surgeries and generally not feeling very energetic. I've not traveled sa late in the spring since my college days of hitchhiking through much of Europe and Turkey. We did not want to encounter enervating heat, and we had so enjoyed Galicia last year, despite the ever-present rain and drizzle that we decided to retrace a portion of last year's trip, with a much longer stay on the Isla de la Toja. Because we were unsure if my partner could travel, I waited fairly late (early April) to book my hotels. This was unfortunate, as June is approaching high season in this region. I was able to secure rooms at the hotels I wanted, but I had to change around my dates and, in both paradors, accept room categories I would not have chosen otherwise. Our plan is this: HOSTAL REIS CATOLICOS, THE PARADOR OF SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA.. 3 nights EUROSTARS GRAN HOTEL LA TOJA, Isla de la Toxa (next to O"Grove)..8 nights CASA DE MARCELO B&B, Padron..2 nights PARADOR COSTA DA MORTE,, Muxia..3 nights We will rent a car at the train station upon leaving Santiago, and return the car at the Santiago airport before flying home We had a fine flight on Iberia, departing JFK with a connection of 1 hour 50 minutes in Madrid. My partner asked for a wheelchair and it's incredible how well orchestrated the "Sin barreras," "without barriers" system works at Barajas airport. So many wheelchair-bound travelers, all bound for different destinations, are transported by a series of buses, minivans, and wheelchair "pushers" from the arriving plane to the (for us) lounge, and then on to the departure gate. Many travelers are in a panic, fearing they will not make their flights but, somehow, it all works out. I can attest to this, as I needed a wheelchair last March and, although my connection was a mere 50 minutes, I had time to stop in the lounge, use the facilities, and sit down for two plates of lunch and a glass of wine, and still made the flight to JFK in time. Today we had an ample hour and 50 minutes between arriving from JFK and departure for Santiago, and the sychronicty of the workers at Barajas airport was really a marvel. We landed in Santiago about 1pm, collected our luggage, and took a taxi (long line of free taxis, no waiting) to the Parador for the flat rate of 25 euro. There is a sign in the hotel lobby warning that the taxi system in the city is near "collapse," and that travelers should request a taxi the day before. I'm not sure how this will work if we need one within the city, but we'll see. Normally one can walk almost anywhere here but my partner is not in the best of shape; I 'm not sure he can manage even a mile. But relaxation is a priority for him so I expect to do my market visits (II have cheese on my mind!) solo. The hotel is under renovation, so the entire facade is covered by those screens depicting what the exteriorl looks like. (What are those called?). I will inquire as to exactly what they are working on later in our stay. When I tried to book the hotel in April, their online system showed no rooms available, but I sent an e-mail to the reservation department and, within a day, a standard room was located for me. But with my partner now able to travel, we wanted a larger space and, happily, were given one upon arrival. I expected the worst, a tiny, dark cavern-like space but this room is lovely..two large windows in the bedroom and one in the bath where there is a tub and a walk-n shower. Several comfortable chairs upholstered in a dark brocade, and a handsome wooden headboard behind the two twin beds pushed together. It's so much nicer than I had feared! The price of this, their lowest category room, for two, with breakfast, is 390 euro per night. Hotel prices in Santiago are not inexpensive! The room was not ready when we arrived so we took advantage of the welcome drinks offered to us as Amigos of the Paradors, and had some people-watching time in the public areas of this vast hotel. I think we are the only guests not sporting shorts, clunky sandals, logoed t-shirts and sun hats. I've yet to hear any English spoken by a guest. It's quite an international crowd, by the looks of it, with the ages skewing more baby boomer than Gen Z. Tonight we will head for a restaurant just a few minutes from the parador, and I will check in next with the details of our dinner at LA HUERTA DEL OBRADOIRO. |
PARADOR IN SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA..standard room, #413
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...38a401db6.jpeg Bathroom, with tub and walk-in shower https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f7a0ed4e.jpeg Bedroom of standard double room |
On board for an Eks adventure!
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Loved Galicia! I’m onboard for the ride!
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You all give me so much pleasure to think you are reading this!
It's a lot hotter here than I anticipated. Temperatures today were over 80F and when we left the hotel after 8pm, there was an almost imperceptible drizzle but it was still 81F. I was also surprised at how many people, including those who were speaking Spanish, were wearing shorts, and these were not the obvious pilgrims. Leaving then parador, we turned right and walked down a steep street to LA HORTA DEL OBRAIDOIRO, where I had booked dinner a few days ago. This is a small and very cozy restaurant with eclectic decor. It has a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin guide, signaling good value. By the time our main course arrived, every table was taken. We were seated next to a couple from Atlanta who had just completed the walk from Sarria to Santiago, taking six days. They had some interesting stories about their Camino. We were treated to a puree of mussels that my partner, who hates "things with black shells," deemed "fantastic." And it was.....a mound of creamed mussels served on a handkerchief-thin cracker-like triangle. Following that was my partner's favorite: A round bread made with chestnut flour that had been gouged in the middle and stuffed with a. mix of Arzua-Ulloa Galician cheese blended with chicharrones. I ate less than a quarter and was sated. Unusual and very, very good, if a tad heavy for me. We shared that and planned to each order a main course: Hake in tempura batter for J. and for me, a rice with pork and artichokes. (I had very fond memories from last year of a similar-sunding dish at SeBe in Lanzarote) But our kind female server dissuaded us, saying that the rice was a very large portion and we should not order a second main course. I'm so glad we took her advice! Again, I could barely make a dent in the rice. In the end, I think we left at least a third or more of this dish on the plate. The rice was excellent, studded with quartered hearts of artichoke and with slices of rare pork solomillo on top. The meat was good but the rice (and the artichokes) were the star of this dish, for me. But, sadly, it did not come close to the masterpiece we had savored in Lanzarote. Service was warm and friendly and most of the staff spoke some English. I had one glass of Albarino, the signature white wine of the Rias Baixas, and with a bottle of water, our dinner cost a reasonable 44 euro. My partner made a beeline the hotel after dinner but it was still light out when we left the restaurant just after 10pm and I wanted see if I could scare up some ice cream. I was in luck! About a ten-minute walk along the 'main drag of the casco antiguo, at Rua do Vilar, #81, I found BIKO. Oh, my--they must have had two dozen flavors!! Not only dulce de leche but also salted caramel--those are two of my favorites. Some unusual flavors included cream de orujo, turron de Jijona, tomato, mustard and mushroom (!!) and others that you can see in the link, below. The company has many locations through Galicia. I'm not sure about mustard ice cream, but I intend to undertake more diligent research on this place in the coming days. https://bicodexeado.es/nuestros-sabores/ Tonight I had the smallest cup (3.30euro), with chocolate and orange, and salted caramel. I did my best to save some for my partner but it began to melt as I was walking back to the hotel so, not wanting to waste even a bite, I "had" to finish the cup. This was some really good ice cream!! It's now just after 11pm and it's only now gotten dark outside. We have the 9:45 slot for breakfast (we had to choose at check in), so I'll finish this up now with the promise of more, but nothing too exciting, to come tomorrow..... I am SO very happy to be back in Spain!! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...31fb58b56.jpeg Interior dining room of LA HUERTA DO OBRAIDOIRO restaurant in Santiago de Compostela, a few steps from the Paraddor https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...213905a31.jpeg Galicia may turn out the best bread (background) in Spain! In foreground is the entrante--a puree of mussels on an impossibly thin, almost transparent cracker https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...82a0758ef.jpeg Portioning out the chestnut bread stuffed with chicharrones and Galcian cheese--my partner could not get enough of this! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1653c64c.jpeg Close up of the cheese-and-chicharron-stuffed chestnut-flour bread https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b2a88fb6d.jpeg Restaurant exterior I neglected to take a photo of the pork rice dish. The menu is on the website; the restaurant goes by both its Castilian and Gallego names. https://ahortadoobradoiro.com/menu/ |
Oh boy, looking forward to more!
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Thank you - following along, this is an area we have missed when visiting Spain.
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This morning we overslept but had time for a good breakfast at the Parador; a highlight of the buffet is the Torta de Almendras, the signature almond cake of Santiago. (The better version, with fewer ingredients, is named Torta de Santiago, but this one was good enough for me to have three slices!) There is a choice of hot items, including various eggs dishes, at no extra charge. From these, I sampled a cup of Caldo Gallego, a light vegetable broth with greens, potato and white beans that might be the most representative dish of the Galician table. It often has pork added but this one did not:
https://followthecamino.com/en/blog/...aign=undefined After breakfast I made a beeline for the Mercado de Abastos, one of the most pleasant of the Spanish food markets that I've visited. Not crowded, no gawking groups of tourists clogging the aisles, lines of inviting eateries featuring the riches of Galician waters, from percebes to scallops to clams and much more. I was on the hunt for a few local cheeses and I bought two blue ones--one cow's milk which had no name, as it was made near Lugo for this particular cheese vendor, and the other, the raw-cow's-milk Savel, from prize-winning cheesemakers AIRAS MONIZ (they have another cheese that I will buy while I'm in this city). I bought the latter from the CHARCUTERIA HERNANDEZ stand, aisle 2, #127, where I was attended by an especially warm and informative female salesperson. I'm trying to recall which stand Maribel recommended to me last year and hope she will chime in with the details. The mercado is a real joy..samples of cheeses and pork products are handed out with a smile and the atmosphere is so much more welcoming than that in the Mercado central of Valencia, where it seemed like every stand bore a sign warning not to touch, not to take photos, and announcements over the loudspeaker emphasized the same. (The market in Valencia is glorious, but those admonitions might be a little off-putting to some). https://www.foodswinesfromspain.com/...d-promoted-by- I could not resist a kilo of cherries from the Valle de Jerte, the renowned cherry-growing region in Extremadura. These were priced by size, with the largest selling for 10euro per kilo. Before I arrived back at the Parador, I knew that I had found treasures!! (As compared to the mealy and dry specimens I had overbought at Whole Foods in NYC last week) From the market I wandered around, taking in the beautiful architecture of the historic center, bathed in sunlight today. I was surprised that so many people were wearing shorts but I guess that's to be expected if one is coming off the Camino. The streets and plazas are packed with travelers toting walking staffs and backpacks with dangling scallop shells. I veered out of the old city to pay a visit to Zara, a stop I can never resist in Spain! Wandering back to the Parador I found TENDA CESTA, a lovely food shop where I purchased a liqueur made in Ourense by Carabunhas from sabugueros, or elderberries. (15euro) I stopped up their last remaining bottle last year but now they have a good supply so I imagine Ii will re-visit this shop before leaving the city. https://carabunhas.com/producto/licor-sabugueiro/ I had a small rest on a ledge on the Praza do Obradoiro. Named for the workers who crafted the structures rimming this monumental public space, this must be among the most glorious plazas in Spain and the end point of most pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago. https://www.caminodesantiago.gal/en/...a-do-obradoirohttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...89f027bf7.jpeg Double file of food stalls offering the legendary shellfish of the waters off Galicia https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6e9ad87b8.jpeg Octopus awaiting transformation into the quintessential Gallego "pulbo a fiera," octpous in the style of the fair https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3a635dcd4.jpeg https://www.fascinatingspain.com/art...448068744.html https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...09e1d9bb0.jpeg Lovely cheese and embutidos stand where I bought cheese made by AIRAS DE MONIZ https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...54e8c3c0b.jpeg Close up of Galician cheeses including the Savel by Airas Moniz which I bought to snack on at the Parador |
Some random shots of Santiago de Compostela on a sunny Wednesday in June:
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f506eb59.jpeg One of several interlinked courtyards inside the Parador of Santiago, built as a hospital for Pilgrims by King Fernando and Queen Isabela https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f9d20714e.jpeg Possible day trips from the city, to surrounding points of interest, including the city of Porto https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4ec75a590.jpeg Rua do Franco, a Main Street in the historic quarter of Santiago, named for the French merchants and innkeepers who established themselves close to the Cathedral in medieval times. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0155c22cb.jpeg Praza do Obradoiro, with the Parador (under renovation) in the background https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9c26bcd2e.jpeg Seat of local government, the Palacio de Raxoi, facing the Cathedral |
More random photos of the interior of the Parador. I am afraid I feel quite inadequate after seeing the glorious photos Anju has taken of his recent trip to Abruzzo and Molise!!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1628ac6bf.jpeg Roofline taken from interior hallway inside Parador https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3a6872c67.jpeg Vignette from lobby area; just one of many spaces that invite relaxing for guests of the Parador https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...64694f11e.jpeg Many plaques inform visitors and guests of the Parador; staying here offers a sense of being a part of history that is almost unmatched by other hotels. It's a very special experience and not one easily replicated. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e91f17176.jpeg Patio de San Mateo, one of several interlinked courtyard inside the Parador in Santiago de Compostela; I am very happy that we are lodged here. The room matters very little (although our standard double room, the least expensive category, is lovely) ; it's the sense of history imbuing every inch of space that is so memorable. I recommend taking any available room, just to have a chance to stay here; much of the interior is off -limits to non-guests, even those on tours. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...334a58f08.jpeg Informative plaque inside the Patio de San Mateo After a small relax and cherry tasting, we walked over to the Cathedral. There was no line and, after a brief check of the inside of my handbag, we entered. Upon exiting at 4pm, the line stretched for about two blocks or more. Too I recommend checking the entrance; if you see a long line, perhaps return soon after as the wait times to enter seem to vary greatly. The guard at entry asks visitors to remove their hats, but visitors were permitted to enter even if garbed in very short shorts. Hera are a few (not very good) photos of the interior of the Cathedral: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8346a8036.jpeg While walking toward the entrance, these cheerful guys from Porto asked me to snap their photo; they had ridden from Porto to Santiago (Along the Camino Portugues; note that there are many Camino routes, all terminating in Santiago de Compostela) in two days and looked no worse for wear. They would return to Porto later today in a van, with their bikes and packs. They were one group of many, including a merry quartet from Tenerife, who were so happy to share commentary and to have their pics snapped. Everyone around here seems to be elated, for good reason...for many this is the trip of a lifetime. I heard tales off children pushing their devout parent in a wheelchair, all the way from the Pyrenees, and many pilgrims were "seniors," and not all looked in he best of shape. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf8befe93.jpeg One of two organs inside Cathedral https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e4f9abde.jpeg Cathedral main altar https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9509a8af0.jpeg Closeup..please do not depend on my details; we took no tour and had no notes or guidebook https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7ebdba2b7.jpeg Plaque In memorium of Pope John Paul II who had begun a European tour here in Santiago https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16827b318.jpeg The tomb of St. James Did I mention that, apart from the couple we sat next to in the restaurant last night, who lived in Atlanta, we have heard no American--and very little English of any kind since our arrival yesterday. Most people we have overheard are speaking Spanish. Our housekeeper in the Parador is a native of Santo Domingo; she works mornings in the Parador and attends dental school in the afternoons and at night. Again I am reminded of the opportunity that Spain allows immigrants, as opposed to the situation in the United States. |
always a pleasure to follow your trips to wonderful Spain 🇪🇸
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I’m also following along.
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Thanks so much to both of you!
We enjoyed our dinner last night, in the dining room at ABASTOS 2.0, and I will post photos soon. The menu was in Gallego only--no Spanish, or English, translation, so it was fun to see what we could understand before consulting the waiter! We hear Gallego spoken a lot, during our wanderings in Santiago, but many people have good knowledge of English, much more so, I think, than in Andalucia, my most usual vacation spot in Spain. I'm happy to report that, despite the extensive construction taking place at the Parador, our room is silent at night, and we are sleeping extraordinarily well. More soon.. |
Really enjoying the report!!! I love all your food stories and pictures!!
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Thanks, Jamikins! I'm glad to see you here; I remember so well your adventures in Le Marche and I see you are going to look for a house to buy there.
Please, please keep us up to date on the places you see and what you think!! I love to dream about buying a home in Italy or in Spain!! Last night we booked a table at ABASTOS 2.0, a restaurant adjacent to the Mercado de Abastos in Santiago where we had a wonderful dinner last May. Things had changed, however. While the dining room (they also have a room with bar seating also outdoor seating, just across the narrow street) had been full, with a festive atmosphere last year, last night there were only two tables occupied--ours and one long table seating a tour group of Americans. When we left close to 10pm, the restaurant was empty, save that large table. The menu, which is only in Gallego, with no translation to Spanish or English, is strong on shellfish. At least some of the staff (only two servers were evident last night) speak English. Our friendly wait person was Valentina, from Cagliari in Sardinia, and was adamant that we visit her home city in the near future!! We talked quite a bit about Sardinian food during our dinner, as Valentina is fluent in Spanish. She gave me her number and insisted that I phone her for details on where to visit in Southweatern Sardinia (She told me to forget Alghero and Stintino and that Cagliari and around was, by far, the best area to visit on the island) I began with berberechos, or cockles, which were prepared "al vapor," or steamed, and very tasty. We shared an order of heirloom peas from the adjacent province of Pontevedra, but these peas were not the delectable "green pearls," or guisantes de lagrima, that are revered throughout Spain and demand exorbitant prices in markets during their very short season. They were.....peas. My partner declared that he liked Le Sueur peas better (these are fairly expensive canned peas popular in then US and Canada). I would not go so far, but I did not think these were anything very special. Much better were the main courses: My octopus had a nice char which contrasted with then tender interior, and my partner declared his merluza (the omnipresent Spanish hake) to be "fantastic!" (I was not granted even one tiny bite. And this is a person who, when we met, told me that he "hated fish!" I guess travel expands one's world in many ways. With one glass of Albarino and water, our bill came to about 71 euro. (2 euro charge for bread and butter; the bread was not nearly as good as the night before, so I would pass next time) We turned down the offer of dessert because I was determined to return to BICO where I had had that excellent cup of ice cream the previous evening. Last night this sparkling white heladeria was packed and there was a line of people waiting to be served. We passed on the unusual flavors like mustard, cream de orujo, and tomato and each chose large cups: I combined dulce de leche and dark chocolate with orange, and my partner, dark chocolate and banana. This is some great ice cream; two large cups cost 8.60 euro. BICO is a mini-chain with outposts throughout Galicia. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9a22b951f.jpeg Last night's menu; there is also a reasonably priced tasting menu https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fe9906b3e.jpeg Berberechos (cockles), steamed https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1e613b42a.jpeg Guisantes de raza, heirloom peas https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a8191815.jpeg Octopus, served over a dark green https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...55134bfb8.jpeg That magnificent merluza (hake), a clean, white fish https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...04e1930d4.jpeg Interior of BICO heladeria, in the center of Santiago's old quarter; a large cup with two flavors costs 3.30 euro This morning, I walked to the Mercado de Abastos again, today in the light drizzle, to stock up on a few Galician cheeses including two from well-regarded cheese makers AIRES MONIZ--Savel and Terra, both made from cow's milk. https://www.tasteatlas.com/airas-moniz I also bought some aged Cebreiro..... https://www.fascinatingspain.com/art...448068744.html ..as well as a semi-cured cheese made from goat's milk, 1949 Coelerini from Ourense; I was told by the extremely friendly vendor at CHARCUTEERIA HERNANDEZ that cheeses made from goat's milk are quite rare in this region. I picked up a wedge of membrillo (quince paste) to eat with the cheese, three cans of Conserva de Cambados sardines (sardinillas) and finally, one of my favorite desserts, a Tarta de Santiago to carry back to the US. This is the DOP product, unlike the less expensive tarts de almendras (Almond cake). (The tarts de Santiago cost 11 euro for a fairly large cake, while the more usual tarts de almendras can be bought for 4.50). But I already know that there is a big difference in taste between the two similarly looking cakes, both round and dusted with sugar with the image of the cross of St. James on the top. https://www.thespanishchef.com/recip...ta-de-santiago Once I finish this post, I'll be off to a nearby peluqueria, recommended by a woman at the front desk of the Parador, for a much-needed haircut. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6ccc889a.jpeg Local liqueurs for sale in the Mercado de Abastos https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3665fc379.jpeg One of the interior aisles of this excellent market |
Oh these pictures make me hungry!!!!
Yes, we are going back to Le Marche this year for 2 weeks to scout out the area we are looking at and see what its like to just hang out there. Its more of a 5 year plan but we are serious! Loving your trip so far! |
I think I would need a separate suitcase just for stuff from that market!
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Enjoying this report and just_tina's ongoing report, and adding to the long list of places we have yet to see in Spain like Santiago.
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I'm so glad you are all enjoying.
Yesterday afternoon I walked over to(over and up, up, p--very steep street and many steps!!) to a small beauty salon recommended to me by a woman working at the Parador. It's always fun to have a haircut in another country. This was a tiny one-woman operation and the experience was excellent. Not only did I get a shampoo, excellent haircut and blow dry (for 35 euro, which is a fraction of what I have to pay in New. York and the haircut yesterday, I think, was BETTER than the one I get back home.). But I stayed way past my appointment slot, as the owner and I engaged in an interesting discussion about politics or, rather, about immigration politics. I've heard variations of this before from Spaniards inn other regions, but the upshot of the conversation was this: She was puzzled as to why our current president had been elected (and very curious about the relationship he had with his wife). BUT she remarked that she wished that Spain would take a much harder line on immigration. She went on to explain how immigrant families from Venezuela, Cuba and the DR had moved into her neighborhood and that many of the young people carried knives which were used in frequent disputes on the street. She related that the government offered much financial help to families, and the more children in the family, the larger the benefit. She worried that someday the Gallegos would be outnumbered by immigrants and that her culture would begin to erode. All of this, of course, is so familiar as most Americans (and probably many from other countries) have heard variations on the same theme, along the lines of...these immigrant kids drop out of school and join gangs, they sell drugs, the parents do not supervise them, and this will be passed on through generations, and because they have so many children, the immigrants will be in the majority someday........ She was aware of what was happening in Los Angeles and was not totally opposed to finding some, more peaceful, way of deporting people without the proper credentials..... I was surprised at how vehement she was and I suspect that she is far from the only person around who shares this sentiment. On to more pleasant topics.......we had the best meal of our trip so far, last night, at SIMPAR, a new restaurant that has already gained a Michelin star and two "soles" from the Repsol, Spain's leading gastronomic authority. It's a tiny, modern restaurant and every single element was perfect!!! SIMPAR is tasting menu only, with two choices--one of 11 courses and one of fourteen, plus the offer to supplement these menus with one or both of two prize-winning dishes: Croquetas de Jamon and a Galician version of the quintessential Madrileno dish, callos, which is a brothy, hearty stew containing, among other ingredients, pig's stomach, tripe, and garbanzos. As much as I love Spanish food, I've never tasted callos. But we did add the croquettes to our menu. I'll follow with photos of our wonderful dinner but want to post this for fear of losing what I've written. Ii also want to note that the restaurant opened at 9pm and we were the first diners to arrive. I'm surprised at how easily we are adjusting to Spanish meal times. It's become normal now to wander around and return to the room around 5pm for a nice relax and some computer time, then dress and wander out of the hotel around 8pm or so. The sun does not set until just after 1-pm, which bodes well for the next few weeks when we will have to drive to our dinner restaurant on most nights. |
Our third dinner in Santiago de Compostela, at SIMPAR:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b96f78227.jpeg I asked for a non-dry wine to begin; our waiter suggested this Basque cider and it was THE best cider I've ever tasted. I snapped this pic so I could look for it on a future trip to the Pais Vasco, which I hope will be in the not-too-distant future. Look at the tiny bubbles ringing the top of the pour. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1fc307394.jpeg This is the shorter of the two tasting menus; we do not normally prefer tasting menus--an endless parade of dishes--far too many disparate tastes and far too much food, and often, far too expensive. This was different and we LOVED it.... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d2e68bc69.jpeg Dinner began with SIMPAR'S version of "brunch:" Waldorf salad, in foreground, in half a Gem lettuce heart (notice the beautiful plate that holds it) ; "egg Benedict--" the yolk is savory meringue and the yellow is......downright delicious, but I forgot the ingredients!! Tartelets of almond in a frothy consistency, and "coffee," which was an intense and lovely hot mushroom broth, which we were instructed to sip after every bite of food. All as tasty as it is beautiful to look at, which would apply to the entire dinner. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...63e6a9af2.jpeg The award-winning (I don't know the Spanish gastronomic competition in which this took the prize) Croqueta de Jamon Iberico....this was far superior to the usual croquettes de jamon, although almost all croquettes are delicious...these were a supplement to the tasting menu but my partner can never resist a croqueta, and especially Ann "award-winning" one! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cbf03f10a.jpeg The béchamel and jamon filling oozes out after a bite; notice the exquisite dishes--a different showcase for each course..this one was shimmering gold inside and matte white ceramic on the outside. And notice, too, the impeccable fry technique...no oil stains the plate. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef19a8ad6.jpeg I did not know that olive oil was produced in Galicia, but production is increasing; this example was fruity and so aromatic. The Galician Brava and Mansa olives come from trees of which many are over a hundred years old, that grow in Lugo province..to the east of Santiago. I'd like to buy a bottle to bring home, although harvest took place last fall. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...36f205c89.jpeg Galicia bakes some of the best breads I've tasted in Spain and this was the best we've had on this trip, so far. Look at the pockets of air. If only I had a large duffel bag..and a tremendous freezer!!!! (I did bring a huge bread back from Matera once--it occupied almost my entire carry-on bag and I filled any extra space with bags of tarallli!!). The olive oil for dipping is shown in the white oval dish. |
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8c7b0024e.jpeg
Standing tall--a spear of white asparagus from Tudela del Duero, near Valladolid. According to our waiter, this town is the source of Spain's finest white asparagus. In the center is asparagus ice cream (!) These, and the exquisite leaves and blossoms sit on a pool of ajoblanco, the traditional Malagueña cold soup. Breathtaking to look at, and to taste! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1ba10ed9e.jpeg Bonito del Norte, a variety of Atlantic tuna, barely cooked, sitting on two consistencies of an emulsion made from pimenton (smoked paprika), garlic, and olive oil.... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...53667679b.jpeg Arroz meloso, a "wet" rice dish golden from saffron, with green asparagus...one of the tastiest dishes of many tasty dishes of the evening https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dceb45890.jpeg A disc of rooster (!!) enhanced by chocolate (!) and truffle. This bird, according to the waiter, is a relative of the Asturian pitu de Caleya, a huge specimen whose meat is mostly dark, as this was.....we had our share during our excellent trip to Asturias a few years back.... Notice the bits of gold leaf! A hungry person is urging me to get ready for breakfast, so I will finish this meal later on today... |
I’m glad you shared a photo of the menu, and the dishes, which I’m looking at while eating my posh dinner at 5 pm (cannellini beans, tuna, tomatoes, radish, corn, avocado) 😂
As always, I love your interesting food centric reports. |
And wow, the plating!
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Yes! SIMPAR was a wonderful surprise!
Here are a few more photos from our dinner (I neglected to snap a pic of the last course, three different dark chocolates with different percentages of cacao. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8d77764d5.jpeg Named "hierbas," (herbs) on the menu, this was a wedge of something frozen and delicious, presented on a cold ceramic block and covered with delicate leaves of herbs, flowers and vegetables.....it was fantastic, and we were given napkins soaked yuzu-sencted water to wipe our hands!!! A little different than the usual dinner at the ekscrunchy household!!! But all was presented with no pretension and we felt so at home. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a49fe497a.jpeg Closeup https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d2c51d0f.jpeg The penultimate course--a deconstructed tarta de Santiago. Even the white cross was edible!! The "egg," cracked open to reveal a rich custard...this was almost too beautiful to eat, but demolish it we did.... There was one last course--a trio of chocolate "in homage to Ecuador," the native land of one of the two married chefs; the grandfather of male chef Axel Smyth, came from Ireland, hence his non-Gallego surname. Walking back to the Parador, the streets sang with the music of the wandering, costumed "tunas," student musical groups that perform in many Spanish cities; I've also heard tunas in Guanajuato and other Mexican cities. https://frescotours.com/la-tuna/ https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...305dfa194.jpeg Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela; construction began in 1075 https://catedraldesantiago.es/en/cathedral/ The Cathedral at night was a sight never to forget: Random pics of Santiago on a rainy Friday morning, before we checked out of the Paradot. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e64f47072.jpeg Rua do Franco, the main tourist drag https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db4047805.jpeg Souvenirs for sale https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d0a290772.jpeg Walking sticks for sale https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f3ae5037.jpeg Drawing by local artist, a perfect portrayal of today's weather..yes---from drizzle to pouring rain, just in time for our departure from the Parador and our drive to the next stop on our Galician journey: La Isla de la Toja, where we are booked for eight nights. Maybe the weather twill urn brighter!!! This is "Green Spain," after all. But one can still hope!! |
Loving your report and all of the food pictures. I got to stay at the Parador a year ago after my camino.
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I have so much respect for you now that I have learned the difficulties of the Camino. I could never even think of walking even one day on th road, although my daily steps are doubled, or even tripled since arriving from New York.,
I fear that the next eight days will be not so interesting a far as this report. We plan to stay eight nights at the GH Hotel LA Toja, a more-than-a-century-old "Grand Hotel," My partner has suffered some ill health, now resolving, so we plan to take advantage of the thermal baths, the great seafood eateries within an easy drive, and the comfort of our sea-facing room. There are many much-lauded restaurants within aq half hour drive but we might not even want to venture that far....we will see how my companion feels each day... We taxied from the Parador in Santiago to the SIXT office, across from the Santiago railroad station. The ride cost about 11 euro. I spent about an hour chatting withe the SIXT manager, Alex, native to Asturias, about many topics. I will never again rent from any agency other than SIXT and am happy to offer more details if anyone is interested. I cannot say enough about this company. It is not the cheapest agency but I am so happy with their service that I am happy to pay a few additonal euros to rent with them. I was a long-time admirer of AutroEurope; My loyalty is now with SIXT. Again, more than happy to offer my reasons for this.... We checked out of the Parador in Santiago, after three nights, and took a taxi, as noted, to the SIXT office opposite the railway station. From there It was less than an hour's easy drive (well, despite one or two minor detours and a scary near-miss at a roundabout)--I live in Manhattan and am a very inexperienced drive)) through the town of O"Grove and across the bridge, to the storied Isla de la Toja (A Toxa in Gallego). I about kissed the ground to be back. As an aside, I am very pleased to have far less fear about driving in Europe than I had even four years ago...I almost fell as if driving in Spain is routine--OUTSIDE THE CITIES!! Despite the fog, GH A TOXA is. a gorgeous Old World waterfront hostelry and, as per my request, we were given th same room we had last May--a very traditional space with a small terrace facing the inlet, with two chairs and a small table. We were greeted so warmly t reception; I think there are not many American guests here and I have already promised to help two staff members with their English during the coming week. We've been here less than four hours and I already feel as among, if not friends, than friendly acquaintances. The warmth of the welcome is just astounding and I am at. loss at how to describe it.... This is their website: https://www.eurostarshotels.com/eurostars-gran-hotel-la-toja.html?referer_code=bs1gg11ww&gad_source=1&gad_ campaignid=280904818&gbraid=0AAAAAD-VyO5NnJCHUSaaOMtg7iBXIKXCZ&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3-fSk-zujQMVfqmDBx1J9zHQEAAYASAAEgId5_D_BwE We are now at the end of our relax time and set to drive across the little bridge to O'Grove, where we have a booking for 8pm at 'D'BERTO, scene of one of our most wonderful meals last year, and considered a "Temple of Seafood" in Spain; I am SO happy that the drive will be less than fifteen minutes! https://www.gastromondiale.com/2019-...eafood-temple/ |
Such beautiful food and gorgeous presentation!
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I am enjoying your trip report on Galicia, a region we also enjoyed.
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We had an 8pm reservation last night at D'BERTO in O'Grove a 5 minute drive from our hotel. Of course, at that hour (surprising that they even opened that early) we were the only diners in the restaurant but a few other tables soon trickled in. We had a superlative dinner last year but I think my expectations were tooo high, as last night was very good, but did not reach the heights of our last dinner. I was also pretty expensive, but we did order premium dishes.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6efbc2efe.jpeg Complimentary entrante--delicious Caldo Gallego in consome form. Lovely! I think I'm getting sick and I wish I had a tremendous pot of this to heat up in my room today. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...68a819851.jpeg This is virrey, or palometa roja, a red fish distinguishable by its very large eye. It has other names, too. My partner, who used to avoid fish, developed a love for this last year, so it was not surprising that he ordered it last night at ASADOR D'BERTO. Mix of cabbage and exceptional Galician potatoes in the rear. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...09e606263.jpeg I also repeated my dish from last year: Fried bogavante, a type of lobster. Very good but the meat was not as tender as I might have liked. A LOT of food--I left about half on the plate. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6ea991dc0.jpeg Galician potato chips, fried in olive oil, are famous throughout Spain, and on my trips home, I've seen travelers toting the large round metal tins filled with them on the plane. Much better than the usual ones we have in the US, these are also less salty. Look at then prices in NYC and you can see why people bring these home with them: https://despanabrandfoods.com/collec...Z_u56MMoAqN2WE https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f017911b.jpeg ASADOR D'BERTO, in O"Grove, a workaday seaport town in Pontevedra province; this is reputed to be the finest restaurant in town, but there are few others recommended by Repsol and Michelin including SANSIBAR and BEIRAMAR. Most restaurants are open only for lunch in June. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a7fb0285f.jpeg We learned that the nearby ice cream shops were closed, so we ordered chocolate helado for dessert--rich and extremely delicious Last night's bill came to about 190 euro---70 for the virrey and 90 for the bogavante, plus water, one glass of Albarino, and a bread charge of 5 euro. Former King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia celebrated their private anniversary lunch here last month, while on a visit to the nearby resort of Sanxenxo. https://www.diariodepontevedra.es/ar...251390871.html https://dberto.com I was happy that it was still bright outside when we drove home, just before 10pm. Today we've been resting, as I think I am getting a recurrence of a horrible cough that I had for a few weeks last month. I hope I don't get sick again!!!!! The weather has turned beautiful and it's a joy to just gaze out the window at the Ria de Arousa, one of several inlets that pierce this section of coastal Galicia, outside the hotel. I will take a photo to post later...right now I'm not sure we will even leave the hotel tonight to go for dinner.... |
I hope you’re feeling better tomorrow. Ahh the Spanish potato chips are soooo delicious.
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Originally Posted by Paqngo
(Post 17660480)
I hope you’re feeling better tomorrow. Ahh the Spanish potato chips are soooo delicious.
Thanks! I've been a little slow here; Saturday was a wash, since I felt pretty bad, and mainly rested in the room. My partner went down to the bar and had an order of croquettes..not such an exciting day. Yesterday I made my self go out, and we had lunch (details to come) at a restaurant facing one of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen in Europe! The water was crystal clear and that pale turquoise that I associated with certain Caribbean beaches. This was a Sunday and the beach was crowded, and many people were wading, with a few brave souls actually swimming. (Water temperature was recorded at 17.6C or 63F.). My photo does not show how glorious this beach was: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fcfb82e25.jpeg Playa Area da Cruz, San Vicente do Grove. The inlet is the Ria de Arousa. (I wish I knew how to post maps like ANUJ!) The water is much more beautiful than shown in this photo..I don't know why I could not depict the color as it was with my iPhone camera... We went on an adventure trying to find the restaurant..I'll talk about this later... |
Yesterday morning, Sunday, I woke up feeling pretty bad, and kind of sick, but I roused myself and, around 3:15pm, we set off toward our lunch at MELOXEIRA PRAIA, a beachfront restaurant recommended by Maribel, with a "sun" in the Repsol guide:
https://www.guiarepsol.com/es/comer/...ve-pontevedra/ We set the GPS in the car with the restaurant, in the beachfront area of San Vicente do Mar, and set out, arriving about ten minutes later. Easy!! The problem was that there was no restaurant with that name anywhere sight and the 4pm reservation time is fast approaching. So, I walk over to another restaurant and sheepishly interrupt the young server to ask about getting to "our" restaurant. Embarrassing, to stop into one restaurant, bound for another, but there was no one else on the street. Ok, she tells me that the place we are looking for moved about two years ago and never changed their address on Google maps...she was lovely and wanted to chat about New York City, where her GRANDPARENTS live!!!!! So we chatted for a few minutes and then were off, trying to follow her directions to a totally different area. We end up on an unpaved dead-end road at a beautiful beach. No restaurant in sight, and now it's nearing 4:30pm, a half an hour past the booking time. I walk down to the sands, and have to, once again, sheepishly, inquire of a couple trying to have a relaxing lounge on their towel.....where is this restaurant. they were lovely, and point me across the water and around the coast, to a group of buildings, and tell me that that I the area where MELOXERIA PRAIA should be located.. So now the partner is telling me we need to abort..that they will not let us in, as it's way past the last seating of 4:30. More twists and turns, and we finally spot out goal. But where to park? The entire narrow road is parked in.....oh, over there is a little eatery with a grassy area that tells us that this is for guests of THAT chiringuito only. Ok..I take a chance. (By now I am getting almost as wiped out writing this as I was yesterday, trying to find the place...) It's way past our reservation time when we walk in, only to be told that the kitchen is closed. And this was a point of pride for me, as I had told my partner not to worry, there was no way they would turn us away. Well, they did not. I launched into the long explanation of the fact that their address on GPS was incorrect, blah, blah, blah....and the guy was probably trying not to have to listen to more of my apologies, so he gave us the perfect table, on a wooden platform a the edge of a GLORIOUS beach. MELOXERIA PRAIA (the name is Gallego) is an excellent restaurant, not to be missed if you find yourself in the area of O'GROVE. Very limited hours outside high season, similar to many entries in this area. The terrace was filled with young families, many with much younger children, and it was a joy to relax and lunch on the lip of the pure white sands just below our table. Outstanding! Lovely service; staff spoke English well, as seems to be the norm in the restaurants we've visited. Menus in Castillano and in Gallego. Photos to come.. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...15ed819d0.jpeg Menu..Sunday lunch, 15 June https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b843802a7.jpeg Complementary mussels in escabeche.. one of those dishes where you dab up every last bit off sauce with the bread..this was so delicious, and a bit spicy..this is mussel territory, after all.... https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1e7bb28a2.jpeg Berberechos, cockles, with a mildly garlicky sauce. I forgot to snap a photo of the leek with "calabaicin" ("field pumpkin") sauce, but it was very nice. (I'm seeing leeks on a lot of menus lately...) Look at the color of that water in the background. People were dining here in shorts, t-shirts, and flip flops...the restaurant was full at 5pm and onward... A glass of Albarino on the side. Difficult to believe, but the hit of lunch was the marinated and grilled chicken with those fantastic Galician (fried) potatoes....this may be the best chicken I've eaten in recent years....if you are from New York you might remember the excitement when THE NOMAD began serving their famous chicken dish for two,. Well, the pleasure of this dish was way up there; of course, the setting had something to do with our pleasure. As soon as we returned to the hotel, my partner, who normally takes very scant interest in where we eat, asked ms if we had time to return here for another serving of the chicken.... https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a00180b0c.jpeg The bill, with one glass of Albarino, a bottle of water: 54.10euro. Recommended. Note the address ifi you plan to go, with the help of a GPS. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bbe2bc326.jpeg And what did I receive as soon we we got back to the hotel? An e-mail letting me know that since we had not shown up for our bookings, we would be charge 40 euro for a no-show!! I am sure I can resolve that... It was a lovely afternoon!! https://www.facebook.com/taberna.meloxeira/ |
Yesterday morning, Monday, I still felt poorly, but I was determined to go into the nearby town of (O"GROVE," across the bridge, about an 8 minute drive from our hotel--the same is Gallego) to stock up on some snacks because most restaurants are shuttered on Mondays, as in the rest of mainland Spain. Keep this in mind when planning your meals!!
Even for this timid driver, the ride to the municipal market of O"Grove was a snap--only one wrong turn--and we arrived to find ample parking in front of the port and market area. Most stalls were closed on Mondays, as the fishermen and shellfish gatherers rest on Sundays, but I was later told that Tuesdays were a top day to visit the market, as the fishermen go out late Monday night and into early Tuesdays, so the stalls would be filled with the freshest of creatures by 11am on Tuesdays. (Unfortunately, we have no kitchen, and I am not feeling 100%, so are remaining "home" today, Tuesday...2pm as I write this. SO..the municipal market, what we might call the Mercado de Abastos, was mostly deserted, save for one lovely female vendor who marked me as soon as I opened my mouth, as a Porteno, a person from Buenos Aires. When I told her I was not from that city, she then asked me if I was from Salta or Mendoza. "No, soy de Nueva York," I replied. She then asked me why, if I claimed to be from NY, I had an Argentine accent. As my Nana would say.."Go know!" Who knows...my accent in Spanish is certainly from the Western hemisphere but I am usually taken for a Mexican... Whatever, it pleases me very much to even have a chance to speak Spanish and have people think that this is my native language. I have to add a thanks here to my parents, to my Dad, especially, with his constant playing of Olga Guillot, Lucho Gatica, and his many other favorite LP records on the "victrola." Daddy, I am so very sorry that I always turned down your offers to teach me the rumba and the mambo. Thanks are also due, grudgingly, to another person, un Chilango from Mexico, who helped me very much to improve my Spanish. The relationship was a total disaster but my Spanish is very good, now!!! Ok, enough of that.. So: Some pics from the market of O"Grove, province of Pontevedra: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...87493bf55.jpeg The fish section of the market; large parking lot; the lone American tourist, shown here, is searching for a bench to park himself while his partner roams the market. The glasses are due to last month's cataract surgery, but he looks quite guapeton while wearing them. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...75c897fa1.jpeg One of a few market bars; you can order off the menu, or you can buy raw product and have them cook this for you....when I feel better, I hope to go back and do just this!! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0db90b124.jpeg Menu of one of the market bars.....welcoming and well-priced options for eating in O"Grove; market remains open until about 13:00. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e96dba57.jpeg The shellfish gatherers of the Ria de Arousa region are much lauded here, as this handsome sculpture attests. At the parking lot, we were approached by a few people selling boat trips on the Ria (inlet) with all-you-can-eat mussels. My partner does not eat anything \with black shells," but I have four more days to turn his opinion!!! A boat trip would be lovely!! It's in the high 80sF today, Tuesday.... For those who can understand Spanish, these posters are another testament to the honor accorded to the people who troll the offshore waters in search of the riches contained within. This explains the various fish and shellfish and the various artisanal methods used in their capture. (I've not yet had time to read them in full but they were impressive in their detail; posted inside the upstairs floor of the LONXA of O"Grove, adjacent to the municipal market.... https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f97f38902.jpeg Those working the waters in Galicia command a respect that I do not believe is shared in the USA. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...487a9e1c4.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...52b08291d.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01538c031.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e542bb88f.jpeg Various types of shellfish traps; we can see one of these from our window at the hotel......oh, the waters here are crystalline and so tempting, but a bit too chilly for me to swim... https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...86ae893f4.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e7ebcf4e4.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0650fd7b4.jpeg Look at the varieties of clams!!!! |
Fascinating.
And that beachside (late) lunch, wow. |
Originally Posted by Adelaidean
(Post 17661042)
Fascinating.
And that beachside (late) lunch, wow. That beachside lunch at MEOXIERA PRAIA was dreamy and I am still thinking about--of all things--the chicken! The trouble is that, outside of July and August many, if not most, good restaurants are shut during the week, or open only for lunch on selected days. I am feeling a bit more perky now than a few days ago, but truly, this report iS not very compelling since we are doing a lot of lounging around our hotel. I booked my room with the thermal spa included and yesterday (our fifth day here) I finally made it inside. I'm not familiar with many spas but this place was pretty great. The warm pool was just about long enough to swim laps, and myself and my partner were the only ones in the entire spa yesterday afternoon. They have all kinds of jets, baths, a sauna and steam room---and I even booked a salt scrub for tomorrow. Prices seem reasonable as compared to those back home--I think. Since I last wrote, we've had two dinners--one very good and one just okay; I will begin to describe briefly and finish once I get back to the room after my spa treatment!!! One thing I do not know if is if I am supposed to tip the woman will "scrub" me. If you see this, and have an answer, just let me know and I can always find her tomorrow. I mentioned that our hotel is on the island of La Toja, a very lush, small island connected to the workday port of O"Grove by a long bridge lined with beautiful street lanterns. Driving around here might be the easiest I've ever attempted outside the US. Little traffic, usually ample parking, sedate drivers..it's a pleasure!! Two nights ago we had dinner at BIERAMAR, a fairly sedate, cozy place on the Main Street facing the port of O"Grove, a five minute drive from the hotel. While O"Grove lacks the handsome stone buildings so prevalent elsewhere in the region (or at least on the main streets, where there are a lot of 4- and 5-story blocky structures) but it's a pleasant and relaxed town with the dominance of fishing and shellfish gathering obvious everywhere you turn. Here are the details of our dinner at BEIRMAR: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ceeaa7a6b.jpeg Portion of the harbor of O"Grove; many, many colorful wooden fishing boats https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5d1f94f89.jpeg Exterior of BEIRAMAR restaurant, facing the port; while we were eating, a fisherman and a shellfish gatherer entered the restaurant to drop off part of their daily haul, emptying bogavante (type of lobster) right into the large tank https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41058d2e8.jpeg The carta at BEIRMAR; very high price-quality ratio https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...65a022ee8.jpeg Our courtly and welcoming waiter presenting the lenguado (Dover sole) that we chose to share; unlike in the South, fish is not normally accompanied by olive oil, lemon or salt. |
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Complimentary plate of olive-oil-and-herb-marinated local cheese and green olives at BEIRAMAR https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4fc470695.jpeg One of the best dishes of the week' this is HALF of a shared order of artichokes prepared two ways: In a light tempura batter and grilled, with a sous vide egg yolk in the center. Exquisite!!! I love artichokes. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0b38269f9.jpeg Closeup of the artichoke dish; why are there so few artichoke dishes offered at restaurants in New York City? They are either those huge Globe artichokes, stuffed with bread crumbs, or thinly sliced, fried, and salted. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d7ef77f13.jpeg Those marvelous Galician potatoes, dusted with smoked paprika, served with a pile of the famous green peppers from nearby Padron, alongside my half of the Dover sole (It's "lenguado" here, with no mention of the name Dover, but it is the same Atlantic cold-water fish, solea solea, that bears as astronomical price in the US IF you can find the real thing, not the often mislabeled Pacific fish, known as "Slime sole" that sometimes masquerades as Dover sole. Do not be fooled if you live in the US and like to cook fish at home. NYC prices recently hovered around $50-$60 per pound. Much less and you are not buying the authentic "Dover" sole, but a common flounder which is not at all a bad choice, but not the same species. At BEIRAMAR this week, the restaurant's price was 75 euro per kilo, or $US86 per pound; our serving (more than we could finish) cost 56.25euro for two, with potatoes and Padron peppers. I prefer to order a whole fish by weight, rather than a single order, but I am not sure if this is a sound practice. Having to order a whole fish usually means that you need two diners, unless you have a big appetite or you can find a very small fish waiting on the ice. For those who know more than I do, is choosing a whole fish, to be filleted at table, a better plan than ordering a single order at a price listed on the menu? There is information here, on the real thing, which is an Atlantic flat fish: https://therockfish.co.uk/blogs/skip...9-Gz6OMBfzqXuD https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01f1d4bfe.jpeg Close up of the filleted sole....impeccable, but far too much for us to finish. This very good dinner at BEIRAMAR, in O"GROVE, cost us jut over 80 euro for two with one glass of Albarino and a bottle of water. https://restaurantebeiramar.com/en/ Closed Sunday dinner and all day Monday. We plan to return tonight. Following in the lead of ANUJ, but with a far inferior result, here are a trio of maps of Galicia: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fff579e96.jpeg The far NorthWest corner of Spain, north of Portugal https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fdaec1daf.jpeg Portion of the Rias Baixas area of Galicia. The "Rias" are the inlets that pierce the coast from the Atlantic Ocean and give Galicia an extraordinarily long length of coastline. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...de3e5e4db.jpeg Closeup of the Isla de la Toxa, off O'Grove and close to both Pontevedra and Cambados. On Sunday we will drive inland o Padron, fsee map just above) for lunch before returning to our La Toxa hotel. |
Second dinner at BEIRAMAR was a revelation. We had met a lovely, well-traveled and food-savvy couple from Lisboa who drive here (five hours) to feast on seafood in O"Grove. Tthey are guests at our hotel and I have had lovely chats with them about New York, about food in this region and about food in Lisbon where they live.
Their main course was a large shared platter of cigalas, a type of river langoustine, and were amazed that I had never tried these "langostinos del rio," or what we might translate as "crayfish of the river," but nothing akin to the crayfish of Cajun country in the US. For one thing, these are wild, not farmed. Not at all similar. Most of this type I see in the US are frozen and imported from northern Europe at incredibly high prices. Here they are stopped up ours before being brought to the restaurants, as I had seen two nights before when a man fresh off his boat in knee-high boots entered BEIRAMAR and carefully transported his catch, one by one, with the utmost care, into the large tanks that dominate the dining room. https://www.nytimes.com/2005/08/17/dining/lobsters-little-cousin-and-its-envy.html We returned to that restaurant last night for one of the best dinners of our vacation; here are some photos. The price of our lush dinner was less than 90 euro for both of us, with water and wine, and we were too sated to try their famous Galician cheesecake. Nintely euro for a dinner including fine steak and some of the most coveted shellfish in the world. For a main course, my partner chose solomillo, from two beef selection on the menu, the other being entrecôte which I think is rib eye but please correct me, as this is not a cut sold under that name in most butchers in my home city. Similar to the tenderloin we know in USA, he declared this among the best "steaks" he has had in recent years. It looked similar to a large, and more unevenly cut, filet mignon but I forgot to take a photo and do wish I had done so... A tremendous portion of beef, easily sufficient for two "normal" appetites, cost 26 euro and he managed to finish half of the portion. He ordered it "medium," (median) and it was perfect. He was SO HAPPY!!! The attire did not link an eye when I asked for it to be cooked at a greater degree than would be usual among locals. So much for foreigners being sneered at for ordering their meat to be what locals consider to be "overcooked," a topic I read about so often on forums such as that famous one popular for novice travelers, as well as more experienced ones. (Do not get me on the topic of TA forums about Spain, as many of them concern where to buy beer at a good price at the major tourist resorts on the Costa del Sol, Canarias, and Benidorm. TA forums on Italy seem to be more helpful but there is nothing like Fodors!!! Although for the food lovers among us, I have to put in a plug for the successor to Chowhound, www.huungryonion. org. This is no way a substitute for Chowhound but for English-language people interested in foos around the world, I've not found much better. (I do post there under my first name, you would not have trouble finding me, as I contribute about places that seem to be largely ignored by most travelers, so I do not get many responses, but those who do write back tend to be people that you guys might take a look at--many live in Europe and have much more comments of value than sometime travelers like myself....) About this current trip, similar to what yo've read here..but there are some VERY knowledgeable contributors, including the unparalleled MARIBEL, who gives us the travel "Bibles" of Spain, as well as much else; do look for Maribel's posts on HungryOnion.org. I'm not sure if it's ok to mention this here but I will proceed to say that Maribel is THE person to contact for a single, pair, or group of people interested in finding the "best' of any area of Spain, without battling the increasingly great mobs of tourists. I have personally recommended friends and these have rated about the series offered by IBERIAN TRAVELLER.com. https://iberiantraveler.com I did not taste the meat, but we had so much leftover that I suggested slicing it and taking it home for a cold lunch but we decided against this. I do hope that this extra food does not get thrown away but I do fear the worst....few except the desperate want to eat meat that has been slobbered over by another person. If you do not know this already, asking for a leftover "para llever," or to "take away," is common and not at all frowned on in Spain.. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a6a0af14.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...195c78648.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c791749d.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...77e11c08d.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...061f9d3f5.jpeg During our dinner the first night, they were at the adjacent table and we struck up a lively conversation. Such An incredible joy of traveling ice to meet and chat with persons fro other cultures, and to hear their stores, their views and they opinions even if the latter differ vastly from one's own. One this brief trip, and from only a few brief discussions, I noticed how v ital the issue of immigration was to persons of countries other than my own. Persons from very different socio-economic levels, from that working-class salon worker in Santiago who deplored the influence and life style of Venezolano and Dominican new arrival to her neighborhood, to a few Portuguese residents who were negative about the immigration issue in their towns and cities. Immigrants from Angola, who I thought has been widely deployed during earlier times, were not mentioned. This time the less-welcomed newcomers to Lisbon and other cities had emigrated from North Africa and, more surprisingly, from Bangladesh. This group seemed to be negatively viewed by quite a few Portuguese to whom I spoke, but my Portuguese, admittedly, is not great, so surely I missed something, and of course, their commentary must have been muted by my own birthplace. I have been, however, surprised about the support that our current appears to have among the minuscule percentage of persons I spoke with. From the shellfish gatherer to the market vendor to the housekeeper at the hotel, to the affluent guests of this and our previous hotel, immigration was a tremendous issue and from several people I poke with, a right-leaning move in elections was not viewed with great alarm in light of this issue. I am not political and I am the last person to delve into this topic, but the agreement on this one issue, across the board, has surprised me. And so...today if Friday, more guests have arrived. Many wear shorts and t-shirts. Two days ago, an elevate shoot for my ZARA took place outside the breakfast room and it was fun to watch the makeup and the preening before the shots could proceed. |
I had my comments cut off, as I took too long to edit....but most of the info is here..it's now almost 3pm and instead of braving the waters outside the home, I've been laboring over my editing....no surprise here but thanks to moderators for cutting short my endless screed about food...
Hasta luego.... Sunday afternoon will bring one of our most anticipated meals of this trip: Lunch at O"Pazo, in Padron. Looks like a good source of info; will read this later so for now, just linking. Also includes D'BERTO, where we've eaten twice and will return tomorrow: https://www.gastromondiale.com/2023-...n-2022-part-3/ |
During our spectacular dinner at ASADOR D'BERTO, last night, our second dinner in a few days, I learned more about these cigalas that I raved about, above.
What I learned, from the owner of D'BERTO, was astonishing, and I will return soon to discuss. Right now we are preparing for our drive to the town of Padron, for a long-awaited lunch. |
During our spectacular dinner at ASADOR D'BERTO last night, our second dinner in a few days, I learned more about the cigalas (langoustines; crayfish) that I raved about, above.
What I learned, from the owner of D'BERTO, was astonishing to me, and I will return soon to discuss. Right now we are preparing for our drive to the town of Padron, for a long-awaited lunch. I am in heaven here; yesterday a wedding party took over much of the hotel and, rather than being an annoyance, it was a fantastic experience for us, even if we did not received a coveted invitation to the festivities....the music alone was wonderful, and we could hear much from our room......more to come (if I have any readers left--I do admit that this report is not exactly filled with excitement but we ARE having a most marvelous, and relaxing, few weeks and the weather has been almost perfect!! |
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