Definitely still reading!

I will get back to this very soon, and thank you so much for sticking with me.

In the past two days, we had what were probably two of the best three meals of this trip so far:

ASADOR D'BERTO (second dinner much better than the first)

https://winejournal.robertparker.com...rs-august-2013


ASADOR O'PAZO


Hope to fill in a few details later today.

If you get the idea that this trip was about not much more than swimming, relaxing, and me chatting up as many willing people as I could find and, of course, shopping for local food specialties (plus those cherries from Extremadura that are in season now and sold in much of Spain) and eating it, you'd not be wrong.



So this report is not going to be all that helpful for someone who wants to plan a visit to the highlights of the A Coruna and Pontevedra provinces. (I did write a report last year that was a tiny bit more focused on sights, but that trip was only abut a week in length).

But for us, it's been a wonderful stretch of time to relax and to allow my partner to recover after some, thankfully minor, medical issues. One of those resulted in two cataract surgeries, the second of which took place a few days before we left. (Whether or not he would accompany me was touch-and-go until a few days before my departure, but I had bought the much-more-expensive "flexible" tickets on Iberia,, my preferred carrier to Spain, which allowed cancellation at no charge). One critical part of our routine has been the four-times-daily insertion of three types of eye drops. Yesterday I had to do this, with an audience, at O"PAZO. And this is not an easy patient to administer to....just trust me on that.


We returned to D"BERTO for the second time on Saturday night, when I was feeling much improved, if not compltely healed, and it was there that I ate the best fish of my entire life. However, that virrery held the honor for less than 24 hours, because yesterday, I had a portion of grouper (mero) at 'O'PAZO, that now vies with D'BERTO'S virrery for the title of "ekscrunchy's favorite fish, ever." In ruminating on this, however, I think that D'BERTO'S virrey will retain the title. For now, at least.



Our first dinner at ASADOR D'BERTO, last week, had been disappointing for me but I attribute that to the fact that I had a recurrence of a horrible, fluid cough and was feeling so under-the-weather that I would have cancelled the dinner except that I could not allow myself do that since I did not want to miss one of the long-awaited meals of this trip.

I described D/BERTO at length, upthread, and will just say that I felt a lot better and for the first time in my life, I had a chance to taste the big-eyed red-skinned fish named vinrey, or palometa roja...or elsewhere, as alfonsino.

There is no fish in the world like this, and I have had my share of wonderful fish in Spain, particularly in Andalucia.

Without rambling on further, here are photos of our second dinner of this trip at 'D'BERTO which, happily for us, is almost walkable from our hotel and only a five-minute, easy drive, with parking in a dedicated, roomy lot belonging to the restaurant.

This time I had more time to chat with the owner, Berto, who is as kind and welcoming as I've ever experienced in a host.

This restaurant is worth a long drive and dinner here was a highlight of all of my many meals in Spain over the past few years, even though my appetite limited me to just a couple of dishes. We are thinking seriously about returning here next spring, (right now it's a choice between here and the Costa Brava) so hopefully, more dinners at D'BERTO will be in my future.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...46b7ad557.jpeg
Owner Alberto Domingo, known as Berto, a most welcoming host. He not only remembered what we ordered last week, but he remember what I had ordered (bogavante frito) during our one meal here last May!!! The restaurant specializes in the finest and largest specimens of shellfish caught in nearby waters (see Wine Spectator article, linked, above)
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...63c91462e.jpeg
Starter: A complimentary bowl of Caldo Gallego with a base of veal bones. This might be the richest and most delicious consommé I have ever tasted.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef2040625.jpeg
Notice the holes in their perfect dark bread; there were also raisin-studded slices but those were snatched up before I had even fighting chance to take one bite.
Galician bakers turn out some of the best breads I've sampled in Spain.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5744be2c3.jpeg
I drank this delicious sparkling Albarino.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...22162e99d.jpeg
Front dining room on a Saturday night about 9pm; there is also a rear dining room where I think the many VIPs are seated. There was a report in the local paper detailing the meal that then King and Queen ate at 'D'BERTO last month. But for a famous celebrity magnet, the service is as friendly as could be, and there is no sign that this is anything but a great, family restaurant.

Many male diners wore shorts and t-shirts, and some females had gauze-ey long cotton or linen dresses--I wish I had brought a couple of those.
Unlike what I spotted in Andalucia a few months ago, few people wore white sneakers!!! They did wear sneakers but for some reason, not white ones!!
The dress on both men and women was very different than what I've noticed in Madrid and in the South.


There is a type of razor clam here in Galicia, named longueiron. I'd not had this before so I ordered it as my first plate. Berto asked me how many I wanted (that's one of the best things about eating in Spain--you can often choose just how many pieces you want of a particular dish, or you can order by weight, instead of just accepting the size that the kitchen determines for all diners.

Remembering razor clams/navajas, I've had in the past, I replied that perhaps I should take half a dozen. Berto suggested that two or three would be more suitable, so I chose three, which turned out to be one too many for my small appetite. Imagine getting full after eating threee razor clams??? Impossible, right?? But eat three longueirones and see if you are in the mood for more food!!!

So I was filled up but of course, I had come for the virrey and Berto suggested that we share one order (@150 euro per kilo, our order was .60 kilo, a perfect amount to share)..I am always so happy at how helpful owners and wait people are in Spain to tailor the size of an order to diners preferences and appetites. I sometimes sigh when I read the many online reviews on TA where diners complain about the price of huge amounts of fish or shellfish. Did you ask before ordering about how large your order would be? Or did you just order "a monkfish," without asking about either the price per kilo or the size of the fish?? There are few restaurants in New York City that sell by pound, some of them high-end Greek, but I don't think that this is very common in the US. It's better, really, because you can order just enough and not too much on any particular day. And if you are dining alone, many restaurants will do their best to accommodate, with portion size.....as in offering a tapa-sized dish, or a half ration (media ration) instead of a large, full order. Do ask, if you have a small-ish appetite, or are dining solo.


After the razor clams, we shared an order of virrey, known as palometa Roja or, in some places, as alfonsino.

This is the Latin name:



Beryx decadactylus

Berto told me that the fish was caught at least 40 km off the coast, in colder waters and was found in great quanties off the Azores and else where in the North Atlantic.
This is an exceptional fish and I do not see it often but if you are fortunate enough to spot it on a menu, I recommend sampling; it is truly exceptional--so succulent and just deliciously delicious!!! This was the first fish that my partner, who usually avoided ordering anything from the sea, fell inn love with and now orders each time he spots in on a menu in Spain.
I'm not sure it's widely available in the south but it is THE fish to order at the Asturian seafood 'temple," Gueyu Mar, where I have other yet had the pleasure to visit.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01beb31b8.jpeg
A trio of longueirones--larger than any razor clams I've seen, and with a more intense flavor. I did sample local, tinned razor clams in a wonderful food shop in O\"Grove and they were some of the best tinned seafood I'd tried....ever. No sauce needed..just a bit of toasted bread, or just eat them plain.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b37510f67.jpeg
Close up..look at the size! In this case, larger IS better!!
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c05e3dab.jpeg
Our .60 kilo portion of Virrey, for two, from the tail end, to be fileted at table.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1082a5c9c.jpeg
After filleting, our waiter scooped off the meaty bits from the skeleton, saying these were among the best parts. He was right!!!
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1ebfb8b3b.jpeg
Half of the fish, served with cabbage and THE most excellent boiled potato. If only I could bring home a bag of these Galician potatoes..you cannot imagine how much better they are than any potato I have eaten before..... Only those in Lanzarote come remotely close...but these are more flavorful. Two sauces arrived with the fish; an oil with spicy red peppers and a wonderful mustard-spiked creamy sauce, shown here.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...49cb8ed25.jpeg
Virrey in the tank at D'BERTO, identifiable by its large eye. See the longueriones at the top, left. At above right: Percebes.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba65281a5.jpeg
Dinner bill.....121 euro with bread, wine and water. Truly a bargain for this quality of product.

Looks and sounds so good! Glad you're feeling better.

Your report is certainly very interesting and educational.
I have not been to Spain, but am sure that I would have been too intimidated to order in a restaurant like this, not understanding how ‘it works’ or what to try. I would definitely be a more adventurous diner when I eventually do visit.

Yum!

Ready to tear my hair out!! Just wrote a looong response, only to delete it before posting!


Have to begin again.

We had an outstanding lunch in Padron, at ASADOR O'PAZO, but I'm going to save that for later, since we've checked out of GH LA TOJA after 11 idyllic days, and driven on to our next and last destination, the PARADOR COSTA DO MORTE, outside the small port of Muxia.

We were both very sad to leave LA TOJA. This is one of those hotels that really comes to feel like home after a while; you get to know some of the staff, you know your favorite tidbits from the breakfast buffet, you can easily maneuver your car from the lot onto the street and you can almost drive into town with your eyes closed, or at least no need for the GPS.

While there we were treated to the festivities of an elaborate and elegant wedding, and I had so much fun photographing the wedding party. I was in my swim attire when they walked down the red-carpeted lane from the stone-encrusted chapel to the hotel interior, but I was spotted and some members of the wedding party wanted to pose for photos with me! After the ceremony there was a cocktail party with a fantastic band from Andalucia who had me in tears with their rendition of this modern Sevillana anthem, written in the 1980s. (We were told that the bride was from Gijon but, based on the music played in the afternoon, the groom may be Andaluz)


We had a superb view of the festivities from our room and, even though the music went on into the night, I was thrilled, and we were even dancing on our balcony after midnight, and I spotted other guests doing the same. (But if loud music would bother you, makes sure to check to see if your prospective hotel will be hosting an event during. your stay; June is prime wedding time)

Here are a few photos, none of them very good since I was snapping from behind hedges and trees, trying to stay as out of sight as possible:



https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...421aa6fc4.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e354de5f.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d25886ce0.jpeg
Gallego musicians played as the guests entered the dining room, from the chapel:https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fd99d50fb.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fa23ae254.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...587d9fa5b.jpeg



I don't often write reviews on TripAdvisor, but I left one before we checked out:


https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g662781-d267211-r1014873195-Eurostars_Gran_Hotel_La_Toja-O_Grove_Province_of_Pontevedra_Galicia.html

After leaving Isla de la Toja yesterday, we drove two hours to Fisterra (Finisterre), where we stopped for much at a restaurant famous for their lubina, sea bass.

The drive from LA Toja to the restaurant was beautiful, mostly on excellent, well-signed highways, and become more dramatic between Fisterra and our last stop, thirty minutes on, Muxia.


The narrower, but excellent and easy-to-drive roads, became shrouded with fog the nearer we came to the inlets of then Atlantic that penetrate this part of Galicia. The landscape was a bright green I rarely see, and the glimpse of the coves with pure white sand, rocky cliffs, and those timeless blocky. houses of gray Galician granite---and the horreros, the slitted stone granaries where farmers would store their crops--it's all glorious and I wish I had not had to put my foot to the pedal so hard, but we had been instructed that the kitchen of TIRA DO CORDEL would close at 3:30 and we were scheduled to arrive, according to the GPS, at 3:15.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...91f10fa7c.jpeg
Horreo Gallego, raised granite granary




I really did not need my passenger commenting, every few miles, that I was driving below the speed limit. And yes, I KNOW that I am supposed to accelerate when driving uphill. I KNOW that, but I REFUSE to drive faster than the speed I am comfortable.


What amazes me is that, as I've mentioned so many times, is that five years ago I would never had dared take the wheel anywhere outside the US. Even there, I HATE to drive, and because we live mostly in Manhattan, I rarely have to. But having a car allows me to explore SO MANY parts of Spain, and of Italy, that I would never contemplate had I been forced to rely on public transportation. I know it can be done, in many regions, but I would not want to depend on buses to get around this part of rural Galicia. And I'm not about to strike out on a Camino anytime soon.


So I have no photos from yesterdays drive, but a few from the restaurant TIRA DO CORDEL in Fisterra. When we arrived, our car was packed with all of our luggage and, before planning this leg of our trip, I asked a few locals if they thought this would be safe. Each person told me that they thought I would have no problem, so we took a chance.

We parked in the lot serving the restaurant and the beautiful beach, below, and park with walking trails reaching out from the parking lot. I would have loved to do some walking after lunch but my partner gave this idea a thumbs down. This is interesting because up until a few days before we left home, we were not sure if this would be a solo trip for me. I had very mixed feelings about that. I was very hesitant about driving alone, although I've been doing this in the south for the past few years. And I wanted the company. Besides, it's tricky to order a whole fish for yourself!!! I had quite a few internal discussions about this, and one with a trusted (let's call her) "friend," who was adamant that I'd have a better time alone!!!! TMI here, but I knew that I'd be fine either way and, as I said, I was conflicted about whether or not my partner would agree to join me. (I think I mentioned that he had had cataract surgery a few days before we left and felt unsure about all the drops needed, and just being away from his doctor if something should go wrong.....ok, TMI here again...by the way I ramble on in these threads, I suppose you can imagine how much I chat with people I meet while traveling, and why I often arrive late at wherever I am going)

I should mention that, although all of our luggage, plus my numerous shopping bags filled with cheeses, fruits, and two Tartas de Santiago, remained in the car, some of it on the back seat because the trunk was full, I took my (very heavy) backpack with passports and laptop and medicine into the restaurant. I guess they thought I was on my Camino!

Whew, lots of preamble just to get to photos of lunch! But a grand lunch it was----the main course, lubina, vied with two other fish for "best of the trip," and even my partner who hated fish when we first began traveling together, was overwhelmed.




https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0f3a9f25a.jpeg
Costa do Morte, "Coast of Death," so named because of the many ships wrecked off the coast in these rough Atlantic seas. This area was also the site of a disastrous oil spill in 2002 with the sinking of the tanker PRESTIGE which polluted thousands of miles of Spanish and Portuguese coastline and decimated the fishing industry. Oh, Anuj, how do you post those perfect, clear maps???? Sorry this one is blurry..will try to re-take and post later..
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...edf83afc4.jpeg
Beach in front of restaurant TIRA DO CORDEL, outside the town of Fisterra. Beaches as pretty as this one seem to be almost commonplace in this part of Galicia....some of the most glorious scenery in Spain, even in the fog. (This afternoon it's begun to drizzle lightly)
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1fcbf9f04.jpeg
Facade of the restaurant, TIRA DO CORDEL, a former fish salting factory, has two "suns" in the Repsol Guide of Iberian gastronomy (as does D'Berto, where we had two dinners in O"Grove last week, and as does O''PAZO where we had a splendiferous lunch last Sunday)

Tuesday lunch at TIRA DO CORDEL



https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9427b2d85.jpeg
Half of the carta: The main courses. The restaurant is legendary in this area for their lubina, sea bass, so that's what we chose.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...665ed7349.jpeg
Our fish, about 950 grams, presented before grilling
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cd03f3381.jpeg
One of two dining rooms in the restaurant, with large windows facing Langosteira beach and the sea beyond
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e98d1d02.jpeg
Green salad, with Volandeira in the rear
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c33378cc3.jpeg
Volandeira, served on a bed of the most exquisite caramelized onions I have ever tasted.....so sweet and flecked with large flakes of salt....this scallop: I have no words!!!!
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...28126cb6c.jpeg
Grilled lubina for two, with olive oil and large flakes of salt...outstanding fish, one of the three best of the trip!!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...802d1078e.jpeg
We chose boiled potatoes, instead of fried and they were, as usual, perfect. It will be a long time before I forget this lunch.

I'm home now, and feel sad to be far from Spain!

Our last three nights were spent at the PARADOR COSTA DA MORTE. This is an architectural marvel, only a few years old. The construction was connected in some way to the horrific oil spill of 2002 when thousands of kilometers of beaches in Spain and Portugal were desecrated by an oil slick caused by the foundering and sinking of a Greek-owned tanker. The fishing industry was drastically impacted but the people of Galicia did come together in a heroic efforts to clean the beaches. All of this, and much of the history of Galicia, is recognized in paintings and photographs mounted on the walls of the parador. One of the photographs that had a tremendous impact on me was this one, entitled EMIGRACION. The details are in the photo at the end of this group; they got mixed up when I posted.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...25cd83184.jpeg
Details of these three collages are below; sorry the captions and photos are not in order..I don't know how to change the order in which my photos sppear...
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2e51fda11.jpeg
See the trio of collages, below:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b6a635314.jpeg
The impact of the sinking of the Prestige is still felt today, everywhere along the Costa de Morte and beyond.
"Emigration," 1957. There was a tremendous flow of people from Galicia to the New World in the late 19th Century,, that continued well into the second half of the 20th Century, as Gallegos left their land to seek better fortune in Argentina, Cuba, the US, and elsewhere in in the Western Hemisphere.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5d2f63a72.jpeg
Details of this photo, that had a strong effect on me. The Parador is a virtual art gallery, with not only paintings and photographs, but maps, ceramics, and sculptures. The place is a museum, worth visiting even for those not staying overnight.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ad4ccfc21.jpeg
View of the Parador from the road leading to the nearby port town of MUXIA, where we spent time wandering and having dinner. It's the polar opposite of the common image of the Spanish parador, most of which are housed in historic buildings, such as the one we stayed at in Santiago de Compostela at the beginning of this trip. There was a swimming pool with a spectacular view of the countryside and the town of Muxia, beyond,, but the water was very cold for swimming!

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1af1f2dfa.jpeg
The view from our "standard" room; there is a walking trail that leads to this picture-postcard beach, below. We saw many sandy beaches like this one during our travels along the coast.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5988253dc.jpeg
The entrance to the Parador, which is on five levels built into the hillside. The picturesque fishing town of Muxia is about a six-minute, very easy drive away, on winding roads that were a lot of fun to drive, and there were never many cars on the roads--here and when we took our day trip to Camarinas. Driving was really fun!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11792265f.jpeg
Our bathroom--not what you imagine when you think of the bathroom of a parador! There was a skylight over the sinks that opened and closed with a switch on the wall. The room also had a freestanding, oval tub, and a walk-in shower. If this is the standard room, the deluxe ones must really be extraordinary.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fbe730925.jpeg
The elevator was on an incline, echoing the siting of the building, and reminded me of a cable car...it was fun to ride up and down!!



A few photos of Muxia; we ran into quite a few pilgrims here who had completed their Caminos.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...45d84e19a.jpeg
Mural of Claudina, a beloved \"percebeiro," gatherer of percebes (goose barnacles). This is an interesting article about the hazards of this profession, and you can watch videos of gathering these delicacies on YouTube; https://roadsandkingdoms.com/2016/barnacle-queens-of-the-seaside/
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...06a5bf5fd.jpeg
The pretty port of Muxia, on the \"Coast of Death," in Western Galicia. In June it remained light until after 10pm, when this photo was taken.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8a5c4c13c.jpeg
Another of the many murals decorating the streets of Muxia
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ed407aaf6.jpeg
Peregrinos--this way!!
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...36a22541c.jpeg
Fishing boats in the harbor, where there is also a sandy beach where kids were swimming in the very chilly sea.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ec4f74bb.jpeg
Sign announcing the availability of percebes (goose barnacles) and their price. These are some of the most expensive treasures of the sea, found in Spain.



I meant to add, above, that more than a million Gallegos left their land for the New World in the years between the mid-1800s and the mid-1900s. Of these, more than 600,000 went to Argentina. Some people find similarities between the landscapes and port towns of Galicia and Patagonia. I've never been to Patagonia so should not comment, but Galcia was as green a region as I've ever seen (I've not been to Ireland, either) and Patagonia does not look very green in the photos I've seen.




This blogger takes far better photos than I do; I don't know why the links I post are not always clickable, but this si worth the trouble of reading, and seeing the lovely photos:



https://notesfromcamelidcountry.net/2024/10/02/muxia-home-of-claudina-the-percebes-hunter/



Here is more about gathering percebes, but again, I wish I knew how to post the link so you could just click on it. Sometimes my links come out that way, but often not.



https://roadsandkingdoms.com/2016/barnacle-queens-of-the-seaside/



On our last full day, we took a drive to Camarinas, a port town famous for local women who still make elaborate and intricate designs in lace. The town is very picturesque, and the drive there was beautiful. I tried to photograph as many horeos as I could, but I was very limited with. my snapping since I was driving and often there was not a safe place to pull off the road, and if I did find a good spot, the light was sometimes not good for photos. But I did get a few decent ones. I drove very slowly and often had a line of impatient drivers snaking along behind me. So whenever I could, I would pull over and let them pass. I wanted to drive slowly to take in the spectacular scenery.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2d6635d48.jpeg
Drive from the Parador to Camarinas; about one hour.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...efac76b7a.jpeg
A detour along the route brought us here, at low tide
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7ba6781b2.jpeg
Horreo, the typical granary made of granite, and a symbol of Galicia (I may have spelled this wrong, up above)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...93cbcb4ea.jpeg
Facing the port in Camarinas; the typical glassed-in balconies protect against the frequent rain
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cbf818175.jpeg
Sculpture of two male Gallego dancers, on the Camarinas malecon....the ports we visited all had these wonderful promenades edging the sea and the marinas
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11fee8808.jpeg
Morning glories!! Along with tulips, these are my favorite flowers and I try so hard to grow them, with no success, even though many people see them as weeds. They are such happy flowers! (Like pansies, and tulips)
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0a559fd01.jpeg
View of coastline near Muxia
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f9698c485.jpeg
An horreo..raised up for protection against animals, near the Parador

Our three nights at the parador were the last of this trip.
I wanted to fly out of La Coruna, a city I've not yet visited, but the flights to Madrid that would allow a connection to JFK left too early in the morning, so we departed from Santiago.

The drive to Santiago airport, according to our GPS, would take just over one hour, but we left at 10am, just to allow for any traffic and for my slow driving and the possibility of a wrong turn.

Our flight was due to depart at 1:45 and we ended up having plenty of time to spend in the handsome, new-looking Santiago airport, where our tickets allowed us to relax inside the spiffy AENA lounge. The lounge was much nicer than I expected, with a wide variety of cheeses, meats, sandwiches, hot plates like albondigas(meatballs) and even my favorite Andalusian cold soup: Salmorejo. And plenty of slices of Tarta de Almedra, almond tart, the signature cake of Santiago. (I had entire cake in my checked luggage, which we will dig into tonight). There was even a TELVA magazine for me to browse, so I could keep up with the comings and goings the "pija Madrilena," the capital's smart set (thank you, Maribel for this info; I am doing my best to become a member but it's been tough going!!)


We had an hour and 40 minutes to connect to the JFK-bound flight, plenty of time, but our flight from Santiago arrived a half-hour late at the gate in Madrid due to traffic congestion in the air approaching Madrid. So by the time we got off the plane, we had less than an hour to pass through immigration and get to our gate at the far reaches of Terminal 4S, where, it seems, al the US-bound flights use for departure. My partner had ordered a wheelchair, which meant he was the last to deplane but I was not worried. I had gone through so many of these tight connection in Madrid recently that I was pretty certain all would work out. I had to break into a trot to keep up with the chatty woman pushing the wheelchair, but we made it to the gate just in time.

I like Iberia, and the AENA staff very much and am always impressed by how well Barajas airport seems to work, even for those with tight connections. Maybe I've just been lucky.

We had a great flight home and here we are now, having just avoided the 100F-degree weather that hit New York City last week.

Now it's time to plan the next trip to Spain. I certainly have plenty of tinned conservas, and cheeses, to enjoy until the time comes for me to return!

Thanks for another mouth watering and fun to read TR. Hoping to get to Galicia in the future.

Ditto 🍷

You're so welcome, both of you!

Article about Santiago, with emphasis on food:

https://www.the-independent.com/trav...-b2743554.html

Great TR as always, eks,
A little bit more about hórreos
https://www.thelocal.es/20240110/hor...spains-galicia

They're also abundant in the Minho portugués, where they're known as espigueiros, and interestingly enough in Navarra in the Valle de Aezkoa in the Pyrenees. In euskara, the Basque language, they're called garaiak. We were up there the other day and surprised to find such a collection outside of Asturias and Galicia.

The longest hórreo is found in Carnota, Galicia, and the largest collection next to the sea in Combarro.

And a little bit about the mariscadoras of Cambados here-
https://culinarybackstreets.com/citi...eid=e77ae6aa3d

Did you make it to a furancho?

About the pija madrileña thing, in addition to reading Telva and Elle (the Spanish version), one should get one's facial treatments at Maribel Yébenes on Velázquez, go to the hípica in season on Sunday mornings and then lunch at José Luis. (Hevia has eclipsed it, but closed on Sundays, the maids' and nannies' day off). And summer vacations in Cantabria. If you've ever listened to the song by my favorite catalán cantaor, Juan Manuel Serrant, "Una muchacha típica",---he describes the classic Niña de Serrano. I lived at the corner of María de Molina and Serrano and knew that type (long ago).