France is a many splendid thing: A trip report
 

We landed at CDG and were disapponted the car rental gave us a Fiat instead of the Clio we always had. It guzzled gasoline and it did poorly on inclines and impossible to pass at times. We drove it through Burgundy and stopped in Auxerre for lunch. Our favorite place was closed so we opted for The Salamander and were not disapponted except for the oysters, too salty for our taste. The terrine de foie gras de canard aux figues and the filet of racasse with risotto cremeiux au safran was wonderful.
Not booked anywhere for the night, we started our search and found a cereal farm run but a very nice family. We ate that night in Chagny at the Hotel La Musardiere.
where many dogs were under tables, a sad yet happy observation. The next morning we had breakfast with our hosts and visiting relatives of theirs visiting from Normandy.
we set out for Provence, our first stop is St Paul-de Vence in the Cote D'Azur. My choice for the night a return to the Colombe D'Or as my birthday present. It always amazes me how warm the staff is there and they treat everyone like royalty.
Now on to Provence. We arrive in that enchantingh land that Colette, the French writer, called an Earthly Paradise and one of my favorite literary charters, Tarquin Winot said, "It is not an exaggeration to say that peace and happiness began geographically where garlic is used in cooking." (and for those like me who can claim a genuine liking for Pastis)
Every year we stay in Eygalieres, usually in the Auberge Provencal that was once the leading place to stay but the father decided to open a restaurant on the West coast, he sold it to his son who did not keep up its appearance and its cuisene but we remained faithful and got reduced rates. This is my favorite village and we love having pastis and sometimes dinner with the locals across the street at the Progress Café. Imagine our surprise to find we were the only guests at the Auberge. and we had a chef who arrived every morning to provide our petit dejeuner and dinner if requested..
Little did we know Deedee had sold the place and had the phone disconnected so we never got our expectd messages from friends expecting us. It was weird at night with not a soul in the three story building, but I consoled myself by thinking, how many others can have an inn and personal chef for themselves.
One day we lunched in Poet Lavel at Les Hospitaliers (Jean(underhill) I thought of you as I know you love this place) I had my first truffle salad, miam, miam !!!
Another day we dined at the Bistro du Paradou and I was able to retrieve Marcy's sweater that she left there in July.
Marcy, I sent a card to our favorite waiter there to thank him.
Finally got around to eating at La Valleé, owned by the daughter, Karine and spouse Hervé. Later that night we dined with friends in a nearby village in their home, and again the next night.
A day trip to Lourmarin to pick up some fragrances I adore at the Coté Bastide's beautiful boutique. I left a purchase there last year and she saved it for me. There was a fete going on so we lingered to watch some locals perform singing: the good and the bad! That night we dined in Maussane at the restaurant, "La Place." This spot was once the resto, "the center" but didn't last long and maybe went into chapter 11 because it was run by the Demery family who once owned the Souleiado fabrics and shops and lost them too. There are only ten tables but there are others outside on the terrace by the lovely fontain. Maussane is a favorite of ours in Provence. Every year we buy three bottles of olive oil at the coop Moulin Jean Cornille and visit a lady we met at the brocante who has a shop on the main street( L'Ange & L'Eléphant) that was once in her home that is this year a chambre D'Hote. After a drink she gave us a tour. Everything is decorated exoticlly, Morrocco and India being the places she travels to.
www.alpilles.com/chambres-ange.htm
this day we are off to Nimes. J. wants to see th Maison Carrée that we missed the last time. It dates back to 1758. Now off to lunch with our Provençal friends to treat them for lunch in the Camargue. They were forced out of the beach location and are now located in Salin-de-Gard (rte du Vaccares)
We were disapponted, not only because it's no longer on a beach but the fish you choose is no longer alive in the tank but now dead in a freezer. Prices have soared. Our grilled Loup was 5.80€ for 100gr.
Next day we take another long trip to visit Karen, the Presedent of BonjourParis, at her beautful home that sits in a vineyard in Seguret. First we stop at the vineyard where our friends'son works in Sablet to pick up a bottle of wine for lunch. A lunch that included figs from Karen's tree. It's a luxury to taste something freshly plucked for you. Her cat was entertaining. A beautiful afternoon spent with a beautful person.
Dinner at the Lóustalet Maianem in Maillane (agm of cape cod, I thought of you)
Another day we dined at Le Jardin du Quai in L'Isle Sur-La-Sorgue. This is a favorite and was sold last year and it's better. The chef was at the Mirande in Avignon before opening here. He'll be with 5 other well-known chefs in NY in November at the James Beard awards.
Our last night in Provence is spent in St Remy at L'Hotel, th Ateliers de LÍmage. It is situated on the main streetBd Victor Hugo but once you step inside, you would think you were in the countryside with the vegetable garden, the labyrinth, a small duck pond , and a view of the Alpilles.
This hotel is remarkedly laid-back. The young staff was fun and helpful.
Grandmere we did dine one day at the'Mas de Cure Bouse." Boo-hoo it is now sort of stuffy and the cooking lacks Madam Donzé's talented hands.
Time to leave this garden place of France.
I'll miss the perfume of the garrigue that never fails to stir me as I listen to the chant of the cigales, admire the twisted olive trees that endure the mistral. Provence with it's Spectacular colors makes you realize why all the great painters chose this setting. As Van Goth wrote, "Nature here is so extroadinaryly beautiful..."
The provencal skies were sunny and crystal clear as it is exceptionally so after the Mistral struck, as it did for four days before our arrival.
Next: on to the Gard.
My thanks t Scarlett and other friends and newbies for your kind words who know that even pets
were

Sorry, my fingers aren't performing well. I'll finish in awile after a rest.

Dear Mimi, what a joy to read your report. Welcome home. I will eagerly await for the next installment. Take good care, and rest your hands for awhile.

So happy to see a posting by our Cigalechanta!
You did make me hungry though :)

((F))

Cigalechanta....your descriptions are inviting..did you ever visit Provence in the dead of winter? We tried that about ten years ago..and found it all to be delightful...the bluest of bue skies, a nip in the air, and few if any tourists anywhere. We used two bases on that two week winter visit...one in St. Remy at the run-down Chateau de Rousson...aside from the classic very long drivewy guarded by plane trees, and the lovely back lot, the chateau could have used some restorative action. I've heard that it has since done so. Then using Aix for the second base, we found the in-town Four Dolphins (Qatre Dauphin) to fill the bill nicely and very convenient.

It snowed the day we walked up the hill to the Cezanne atelier, giving the grounds a handsome look.

We, too, enjoyed the Bistrot Paradou (people-watching par excellence) and one of the next-table luncheon guests told us about a way-way out of the way restaurant in the Camargue that we just had to visit the next day....at Saline (we crossed on the ferry) we got onto a dirt track over the salt flats for about ten miles until we came to the fishing village of Beauduc (all trailers) and Marc et Mireille's restaurant, behind a stable of white horses. Needless to say, we were the only diners..fabulous lunch of fresh caught fish, salades and wine (at the time 95FF total). Wonder if it is still there? A great getting-to and dining-at experience.
Stu

Hi stu, yes it's still there.
Forgot to mention our picnic. We went to Cavaillon to Gerard Auzet's boulanger. He was voted Best artison baker in France. Peter Mayle thinks the best in Provence but anyway, Mayle and Auzet have a book coming out in November about Auzets talents. His pastry was special. We headed next to
Fromagerie Des Alpes on rue Raspail. J. and I both think it's the best cheese shop we have visited and the guy who runs it is charming and knowledgeable about all the cheeses.
Now the Gard. We returned again to Uzé. Andre Gide's father said, "O little town of Uze were you in Umbria, Parisians would flock to visit you." This time we stayed at the Hotel du General d'Entraigues. We had reserved dinner but they said it was cancelled due to a booked wedding. We were happy!!!!! Several of you here said food was so-so. I had hoped to go one day, "Les Trois Salons." so I made reservations
We walked about looking for a lunch place but only after I insisted we visit Medieval Garden situated at the oot of the King's and Bishop's towers.
Sadly alot of the plants suffered from the intense heat they had. The pear espalier(sp?) looked in need of immediate help. After that depressing visit ( I feel badly for dying fauna too) we went to see the man who runs the Maison de la Truffe who is always helpful. www.lamaisondelatruffle.com
and he suggested we lunch at his friend's place, "Le Bistro du Grezac"
A great choice for us because we love fruits de mer. After that a chat at the Poterie Caltié to talk jazz. he's up on the new lumineries. I know the oldies.
Dinner that night at Les tros salons.
A great night, the food was, the company of the sous chefs girlfriend from Denmark who spoke not a word of French and we heard our first English speaking voices, except for Emily) from somewhere on the terrace. In the morning, we had breakfast in the Place des Herbs where the huge market was in progress filling the square and all the streets around it. We were grateful the hotel's Garage was also filled because of the wedding. They were asking 11€ a night!! we parked nearby and luckily our overnight did not get us a ticket.
We did get one later in another place.
Now comes the day I was looking forward too. Crossing the Aquaduct of Millau. It was much short for me. The view through the side were not much so we drove around to catch a view of it overall now that was impressive.
Our reservations fell through for a bed and breakfast in Puy L'Eveque but lucky for us, we found a logis in La Garde, Hotel Brunel/le Rocher Blanc run by a charming young man whose wife is sous chef and his mother tends bar. Everyone there as guests was speaking English. I jokingly asked him why he didn't allow French. Everyone laughed and said this year was exceptional becaue of the aquaduct, th Brits have been coming there to see Foster's work. After dinner we went to the salon and playd a game of pool and met the Brits who were drinking tea as we played and had our digestifs.Later all the staff joined us and it was a fun ending to our stay as they had us taste a few strange things.
Now on to the Loire.

Mimi, I'd love to just pick up tomorrow and follow in your footsteps! It's a wonderful report of a much-loved part of France. I'm sorry to hear of the downward turn of the Mas de Cure Bourse, but so many other places to go, as you continue to find!

We arrive in the village of Mariel sur Cher where we are staying on a goat farm for two days. It's located a half mile down the road from our friends Walt and Ken. They join us for dinner there, the Next day we have a lunch at their home. Their garden is a picture. The lush tomatoes, the squashes, the fruit trees. Ken's photos do justice to the vegetable garden. Walter's floral ones are also special. They live in a lovely area. When we leave the farm we buy goat cheese (chevre) to take to our friends in Bonnes. We stop in St Aignan that has the best zoo we have seen. The flora is magnificent. The Amazon bird section makes you feel as if you were really in the jungle as birds cross your path. The Manatees are in a pool with glass walls so you can view them under water. Unlike our local views, the animals have much more freedom and seem happy, no nervous pacing. Next onto the Vienne.

Cigalechanta, it's so good to see you posting :)

Your report is lovely (it is making me hungry as well, lol). I look forward to reading more....

I'm so enjoying your report! You and your husbanc really know how to make the most of a trip and have a wonderful time.

Hi Mimi! I'm so glad you got to go on your trip. I was going to call you to go to dinner while I was in Cambridge but saw your post right before I left that you were off to France. It's great that Marcy's sweater was still at the restaurant and that you were going there. I leave things all over Europe and have never been able to retrieve any of them.

I'm sending you an e-mail as I have a question about a restaurant on Newberry Street.

The near final end to our travel adventure. We visit our friends in Bonnes near Chauvigny. they have a talking parrot that speaks more French than I. But I can keep up with his merde and ca va. He also calls one of the dogs and the cat and mimics their sounds but I beat him when he only counts to three. They have a dinner party one night and the chevre is a big hit on the cheese tray. While in bonnes, we decide to visit Chateau de Touffou down the road from Michel's 12th century maison. It was closed on previous visits. The chateau was owned by David Ogilvy who had the huge advertising firm. His German wife still lives there so only a few rooms are open on the guideded tour.
One day we went to Chauvigny to the
Les Geants du Ciel-a spectacle of birds, like owls, hawks, eagles. who perform and fly over your head. The setting is spectacular in the medievile building but our local zoo has the same program with not as much talent as our
birds. Another day we spent in Angles sur L'Anglin www.AnglesSurAnglin.com a favorite beautiful village. All the nights were spent with our friends. When we left it was hard. I love one of the dogs who always remembers me and follows me everywhere. They have a private man made pond for fishing and I walk her there to see the swans and ducks. We say our teary goodbyes, they give us wine, bitch paté and wild boar Paté that Michel has caught and Marie claire has made. A few of their red peaches and a gift of a 30 year old wine that Michel says may or may not be good but to uncork it the night before. That we'll do the week-end as J. is anxious to try something that old.
Our last stop- in Normandy in Fourges at a chambre D'Hote that we go to every year our last night in France. In the Eure an hour and a half to CDG. First we stop in Giverny for a pastis at the Antiente Hotel Bawdy. We go to our Chambre D'hote and Paul greets us and as usual offers me a pastis. It rains so we have now been denied our picnic by the fish pond in paul's beautiful garden but he has set up the salon for us which we share with two couples from Belguim.. The next morning we all feel confortable with eachother and over a lingering breakfast discuss all sorts of issues. Pauls wife sends us off with a jar of her confiture Tomate vert that I stuff in my bulging back back. Our return flight has us on board waiting two hours before take off due to a faulty engine. A boorish American boarded with a suitcase he couldn't fit in where we had our backpacks and carry on wine and olve oil cartons. He tried to forcefully put in his baggage. it wouldn't fit he toppled our backpacks and wine. Meanwhile he is holding everyone up that is trying to be seated.
Eventually he finds bin that will hold his much too large luggage but alas, he shoved my backpack with it and broke the jar that Josette gave me and I had to throw out some clothing that I wrapped other glass bottled confitures with because of the sticky and many glass particles. Home at last. Late, tired, and laundry to do the next day.
I slept til 11Am today and still groggy.
THE END

A few things: Very quiet in provence and the Vienne. Business was suffering both places. Visiting St Remy several times, once to dine once for Le presse an another to dine we had no trouble finding a parking space.
Our Friend Michel's doctor is also the mayor of Chauvigny and he said that business was off.
Fashion in cote D'Azure we saw everything from swirling skirts to simple tasteful linen frocks to Garish tops and lots of cropped pants. For men cargo type shorts prevailed except for some model looking types who wore white pants and white linen tops.
Footwear waas the trendy moccasins, flip flops sandels and the espadrille.
In the Vienne we saw lots of blue jeans on both sexes of all ages and alot of trainer type footwear. We lunched at CDG at Les Halles in Hall D. The cooking has gone down hill, this visit.
Gas is more expensive in the North.
The cheapest unleaded was $6.20 a gallon.
J. kicks himself for not asking for a deisel.
thanks for reading-stay healthy.

Glad to hear you had a nice trip, Mimi, and that you are home safely!

Dearest Mimi, although I have never had the pleasure to go to France as I am sure you know I so enjoyed your trip report. What a pleasure it was to read. Thank you for sharing your trip...and I love your sense of humor along with all the informative details. Take care of yourself. My best wishes.

Wow, you sure covered a lot of ground! From the Cote d'Azur to Normandy and a lot in between. Makes me want to go right now.

Terribly disappointing re the Millau viaduct -- we were thinking of a detour just to see it but I will rethink now.

More important: you give us ideas for 1. the Uzes area -- and we got a great recommendation for accommodation from Anselm Adorne, who recently came to our home while visiting a daughter and

2. the Lot area. Maybe we'll stop around Puy l'Eveque or maybe St Cirq LaPopie on our way to the Dordogne...

We fly into Toulouse on Oct. 4 -- 2 weeks of joy after 6 months of 12 hour days.... Can't wait.

Thanks you wonderful friends here.
tedgale, it's only my opinion. Do not go by it because others have loved the bridge (that spoke to us at La Garde,)
It's longer than the height of the Eiffel Tower.
We stayed one year in St Cirq La Popie. Loved it!!
Be careful driving up the narrow road.
thanks Lara got your email and as always kind Ron and loveitaly, Nikki, Scarlett, seetheworld and sue,
I forgot to mention that picnic in Cavaillion was by a chapel on a very high hill that overlooks all of Cavaillon.

Welcome home Mimi! I hope you had a wonderful time.

I can't take the time to read your report right now. I'm remote assisting my niece with her PC and virus (again!) :-(

I'll savor reading it tomorrow. :-)

Ahh Mimi, I feel as if I were there. I can hear the birds and smell the lavender..and I would like to stomp on that fat mans foot for breaking your jar!
I am glad you are back, I know you wish you were still there :)
Now let's plan the next trip , where do you and J plan to go next year? New places?

Welcome back! I'm thrilled that you posted before I leave for Vence on Friday. I'm going to save your report to read on the plane as I know it will be wonderful.

Best wishes,

Maureen

Thank you so much for your wonderful report Cigalechanta. With all your descriptions it is so easy to hear and smell and taste France - thanks for that.

Mimi, glad you had a good trip. I will copy it for our trip in March. Hopefully I will see you at the Boston GTG on Oct 15th.

Sorry for the typos. I didn't keep notes, except for where I was. I left out a lunch day in Angoulime for the purpose of seeing The Cathedral of Sainte-Pierre(early 12C) and visted the covered market in Metal but liked the one we saw in a vllage as we drove to A. It was an ancient wooden one. We stopped, thinking I was going to take a photo of a lavoir. The place where you pick the fish was Chez Juju.
The L'Hotel in St Remy has a giant screen You can pick videos to play.
After a tapas dinner, we played a game of pool while someone had "some like it hot playing on the screen.
Indy, David dear, we didn't make it to saintes but did go back to Maitre Kanter with our friends. This time we ate inside not on the terrace. the fumes from traffic were unusually heavy.

What a lovely, descriptive trip report. How wonderful to have so many friends in France!!

I will save this for my next trip!

Your journal here... holds within it a lot of love.

Thank you ... for letting me share.

Mimi,

Welcome back. Your report is so interesting. It will help us as we hope to make our 14th straight visit to St. Remy in 2006. It can serve as a primer for all those new travellers who inquire should I visit Provence.

A song in Anything Goes has lyrics "There is no cure for travel..." Your enthusiastic trip report resonates like a Porter lyric.

Welcome home. We wish you many more years of travel and joy.

Anthony

Thanks everyone.
mvor, be sure to visit The Maeght Foundation in St Paul-de-Vence. It rivals the best art collection in the world, a temple of modern art.
The building was designed by the Spanish architect Jose-Luis Sert.
The gaesen full of great works is outstanding.

sorry-GARDEN...raining heavily here. This one handtypist is not faring well. ;)

Oooh, this sounds like such a lovely trip. You really cover a lot of territory, Mimi.

Hope you are well and that your beautiful France helped soothe your heart.

I enjoyed your report so very much. A delightful trip and read.

Thank you and welcome home.

gg

Great report - welcome home!

Welcome back. You certainly covered alot of ground.

Wow! Traveling is a gift, and you've given much to us in your interesting reportage!

I was especially intrigued to hear of your unique lodgings in Eygalieres, where we spent a week in August. What a way to travel! And, thanks to Underhill, I too have enjoyed the view and the food at Les Hospitaliers. It's fun to think of other people visiting these spots, as your remarks inspire sensory memories that are fun to revisit.

My uncle actually was hired by David Ogilvy, years and years ago...I'd forgotten about his French chateau. You may have read in David's book that he arrived in New York with essentially one suit before making his fortune on Madison Avenue. A remarkable person I am told. Another amazing story.

Glad that you arrived safely home despite the awkward return and the disappointing frageents of glass and ooze in your knapsack. Perhaps we could meet in Cambridge (my wife commutes there daily with our dog in tow.)

All the best and welcome home. Thanks again for the report!

I'd love to meet. Perhaps the MIT hotel would admit the dog for the fodors GTG in Oct 15 at the MIT University Hotel, in Cambridge on Sidney St. Worth a call!
Hope all 3 of you would come.

I've written that date into my book. What time does that start?

Bonjour Mimi !

J'ai adoré ton trip report/"compte-rendu de voyage" ! I loved the lively tone and appreciated all the details ! Bravo ! Bises. Marie

Bonjour latour. It starts at 12:30 for lunch. later that night at 7:00 at a Thai restaurant in Brookline. I can only make the lunch GTg.
More details/ Write Bob [email protected]

Welcome back, dear Mimi!

And many thanks again for retrieving my sweater! Having wonderful Fodors friends truly makes it a small world, doesn't it?

I enjoyed your trip report immensely- it sounds like a wonderful trip, and I could just imagine you there, taking it all in with your great enthusiasm and making new friends everywhere you went.

Thanks for sharing! ((f))

Marcy, you should have your sweater ( I hope) by Saturday before you leave for your trip to Switzerland and Italy?
I'll use this post to wish you a bon voyage. J. took it to the P.O. a few days ago, but it may not get to you til Monday though they said 4 days.

What a delightful report, Mimi. Welcome home. I am sorry about that annoying incident on the plane; but, it surely doesn't color your overall experience. You and John certainly live fully. It is a pleasure to tag along with you.