Favorite memories/ experiences in Greece?
 

Thanks in advance for some lovely ideas. Fodorites have been so helpful in making my fall trip to Italy so wonderful.

Planning a week in Greece in October. I know that a week is not enough time, but it's the amount of time my friend has available. I know October is "late" but that's the time frame that is open. Hopefully, there will be a return trip that will be longer in the next few years.

Current plans - a couple of nights in Athens. A couple of nights in Oia on Santorini at my bucket list (too expensive) hotel with terrace overlooking the caldera. That leaves 2 nights to be decided. A (much) more moderate hotel near the water/ beach on Santorini or maybe another island. That part of the vacation would be a mix of images = Mamma Mia meets Shirley Valentine. Walking to a local restaurant/ bar at night. No big plans. Just being there.

Please share some of your favorites memories/ experiences and if you have a particular hotel and/or restaurant/ bar on Santorini OR a suggestion of another island a ferry ride away, please tell me about it. This will be more of a "slow" trip than a busy one. But all ideas are welcomed!

The beaches on Santorini are not all that great. Oia is a nice place to stay. We stayed at the Filotera Suites in Oia hanging off the cliff. It was very nice and very expensive! We went to two other islands; Paros and Mykonos, which are both a ferry ride away. We did not go to Naxos which I understand has some very nice beaches. Paros is very quiet. Beaches were so so. Mykonos is more lively, although will be fairly quiet in October. We stayed near the beaches rather in the town. Mykonos town is all shopping. It is a short ride away on a quad bike or by taxi. We stayed at Nissaki hotel and it was very nice. We could walk to two beaches. It was on the water and we liked the location. There are restaurants within walking distance. I am not sure how much is open in October?
There is a larger island near Santorini, Crete. Crete has two cities and lots of beaches and if I ever get back to Greece, it will be the island I will go to. It has more year round occupants I think.

This is EXACTLY what I need/want to hear!

I want my two days of doing not much of anything other than spending time on that terrace (or nearby) and looking at that view. I'm paying enough for the room. I'm going to soak in that view!

But your descriptions are just want I needed to hear. It sounds like a second location closer to water at Santorini is not what we are imagining. Paros sounds lovely.

I DO hope to return and see a lot more of the Greek islands. I had hoped to go to Greece in October this year, but planned another trip. A friend PM'd and said "let's go somewhere" and we tossed out ideas. She was excited about Greece too, but we know there's a challenge to fit things in during the time frame.

She would like to take the ferry to/from Athens, but I'm concerned about 7.5 hours on the ferry from Santorini to Athens. Maybe fly to Santorini. Take a ferry to another island. Then a ferry back to Athens from said island and at the end of the trip, I won't mind being on the ferry for an extended period of time. I have booked a hotel near the Athens airport for the night before departure.

girlonthego, thanks for your suggestions as well. Very helpful.
We aren't really looking for a "beach" vacation but I thought that staying closer to a beach or a town would be a good contrast to our two nights (each) in Athens and Oia.

We aren't looking for the "perfect" trip. But a nice one and knowing full well that a return trip will be wanted!

Facts:
-Santorini is a stunning geological marvel.
-many thousands agree with that assessment and thus crowds are part of the deal, pretty much year-round.
-it ain't especially cheap.
-there are numerous additional isles, some close to Santorini, that would make nice, lesser-crowded foils, after a visit to Santorini.
-one can record their next album on Santorini (see Black Rock Studio---ask Joe Bonermasa).

Opinions:
-clever travelers who've done their homework can mix a stay at say, laid-back Perissa Beach, followed by the kind of caldera-hugging hotel that our Starrs refers to above.
-a most sympatico hotel @ Perissa would be ZORSIS.
-only a fool would overlook Zorsis; the owner couple are 2 of the kindest, most helpful hosts that a traveller might meet.
-those pondering which caldera hotel, should also consider instead renting=VG idea IMHO.
-perhaps the best music combo of Greek styles-meets-rock would be the great, underrated Canadian band Max Webster's song 'America's Veins' (honorable mention: their song 'Coming Off the Moon').

*With your time frame, Starrs, I would stick to Santorini.
ENDAHKSI!

I am done. The Tzaybek dance.

Next time: Folegandros (reached from Santorini).
I am done. The end.

Loving these! I edited the list a bit.
15 years ago I decided on my Oia hotel because of the clip-clop of donkeys' hooves. A friend rented a 3 bedroom villa and was in the back room. Woke up in the wee hours of the morning, hearing a strange sound. She later realized, she was hearing the clip-clop as donkeys walked the road above her head. I've wanted to go there ever since!

Octopus! Want grilled octopus!

I'm staying for "free" in Athens and an Acropolis view is an option. I was hoping for a upgrade but I may go ahead and "pay" for that room type.

Socrates...and Paul. My friend is in seminary (second career) and "our" week is the week break in her studies.

"Sitting in a waterfront taverna as fishermen arrive..." - When I said "beach", I probably should have said "waterfront". The beach is not important, but I would like to be close to the water for a night or two.


"Having dinner outside in a neighborhood taverna..." = my friend's #1 goal is drinking ouza with the locals one night. Just hanging out. This taverna sounds exactly what she describes.

SO very appreciate for these lovely vignettes!

Perissa Beach is where I've been looking. Zorsis sounds wonderful!

I'm trying to leave the 3rd place open for my friend to decide after research, but a full time job and research for paper leaves little time. I'll share this suggestion with her!

The Oia hotel is my splurge. I've been wanting to go for 15 years. The Athens hotel is "free". The 3rd hotel/ location can be any price range but moderate is better.

If you haven't already seen my trip report, you might take a look at it. What I liked best = post # 26.
https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...1460735/page2/

Mykonos has a lovely beach. We stayed at the Mykonos Grand outside of the town.

Gorgeous photos, Richard, and you look great!

Thanks, kja! I'll go look now.

zebec, it appears that they have no availability for our dates. They may already be closed for the season. I'll email to confirm.

And Oia.

Gorgeous!

Perissa was merely part of our 'shaking off the jetlag' strategic plan for the first few days. Beaches are not normally our thing. Frankly, we were happy with Zorsi's pool and treated the beach strip as simply part of our sympa sunrise/sunset walking path. I totally agree with HappyT (note the cadence) that lesser-known islands not yet totally surrendered to commercial tourism are the most compelling destinations, with a higher quotient of authenticity. There are so many isles to choose from and which are best remains a topic of fiery debate. Bowie apparently favoured Cyprus, plus Patmos off-season, but so would you and I if we too were being hosted/feted by Brit royalty (posh voice of female royal relative):

"Would you like some more tzatziki, or moussaka David? Fancy more retsina? What's that you say, hash? B-but David, we all finished that final chunk last night. D-don't you remember?"

I am done. Memories to follow.

PS Starrs, poster 'brotherleelove' over on the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree forum, also posts on Rick Steves' site. He has been to Santorini a smazzillion times and seems to have roots of some sort there. Friendly guy. I'm sure that he'd be happy to answer any and all questions from you.

Your friend might like to visit Patmos where St. John was banished. We saw the grotto where he is said to have dictated the Revelation to a scribe. One of my favorites was the temple of Athena Aphaia on Aegina. The ruins are on a hilltop where the wind blows around the columns, and I got more of a sense of a civilization "gone with the wind" that I've ever felt anywhere else. There were not many people there on the day I saw it, and I will never forget the experience.

For a future trip, don't miss Delphi.

Memories:
-1985: waiting for some of my tardy young offender students to arrive for their lessons at the Toronto public library, I killed time by perusing travel guides. Not yet a seasoned traveller, I had to make do with the fantasies generated by those guidebooks. The red Baedekers 'Greek Isles' edition particularly grabbed my imagination:
"Santorini is best reached by boat, preferably arriving at sunrise..." How I salivated over such imagery.

-1988 Crete: a group of us complete strangers, all shapes, sizes, genders and ages, teamed up to rent a van together. Our goal was to head up into the mountains that day. Everyone hit it off, there wasn't a single killjoy in the group. The result was the quintessence of travel---- laughter, food, laughter, wine, laughter, and meeting plenty locals. At the outset, I approached each person with a serious expression and an imaginary form that needed filling out. My explanation: the van rental company owners were demanding everyone's weight, due to the load-bearing limitations of the vehicle. Everyone believed me and complied. After 'listing' everybody's data, I went into the office only to return moments later with an equally serious face, "Now they need all our shoe sizes" (see 'ice-breaking'). After some mock slapping of my rascal face, we all set off.

The raucous party atmosphere lasted right to the end. Turning one final corner as we snaked down the mountain, we chanced across a solo donkey munching grass in a field. He must've just been watching donkey porn because he had the largest erection that any of us who were not whale scientists had ever seen! We all laughed so hard that I feared my ribs were broken. Even funnier when the suggestion came to consider photographing the donkey, with one of our Tilley hats atop his head, so as to thereafter sell t-shirts bearing the picture, with the label 'Donkey Dick'.
After a great day, a pair of the young Scandinavian gals among us invited us to their house-warming party that night. They were married to local men.

-1992 Folegandros: alone on the isle during off-season March, I had no choice but to interact with locals--I was the sole tourist. My entry into that island world was an impossibly-cheeky 9 year old who alone among his mates, spoke VG English. Turned out that his mom was from London. Most visitors compare the main Chora village square there to be akin to a theater set. Well, for a week, my little companion guide and his parents were my intro to the remarkable cast of characters who lived there on that picturesque set. One such person: the boy's late grandfather, who as a 9 yr old himself had been, wait for it.....mailed to Athens by his impoverished parents nailed inside an orange crate; at least there he could possibly scrounge a meal.

Enough. Next....
I am done. The end.

what oia hotel is the splurge?

I was wondering if we could do Delphi on this trip.

Thanks for the other suggestions!

We'll be together in a few weeks so can gather notes and make decisions.

The orange crate story reminds me of these deliveries -
https://postalmuseumblog.si.edu/2013...eliveries.html

For an interesting combo of Greek musical style mixed with rock, check out the below link for the song 'America's Veins' by Canada's great 'Max Webster' band. It dates from 1977. There was no 'Max' but their zany guitarist-singer, Kim Mitchell, had once played in a back-up band for a famed Greek vocalist all across Hellas and its isles (he's second from left on the album cover photo). Honorable mention song by same band for its Greek influence: 'Coming Off the Moon'.
If you could possibly spare the time, please listen to this remarkable music and crank the volume as loud as you can withstand.
Endahksi! Opa!


I am done. The deaf.

<<Current plans - a couple of nights in Athens. A couple of nights in Oia on Santorini at my bucket list (too expensive) hotel with terrace overlooking the caldera. That leaves 2 nights to be decided. A (much) more moderate hotel near the water/ beach on Santorini or maybe another island. That part of the vacation would be a mix of images = Mamma Mia meets Shirley Valentine. Walking to a local restaurant/ bar at night. No big plans. Just being there.>>

I would not move hotels in Santorini, stay in Oia the whole time, if you want beach time in October (too cold for me) you can take the bus to Kamari or elsewhere/rent a car. You can also have a dip at Ammoudi where there are several traditional tavernas. Much is said about the crowds, if you have your own terrace overlooking the caldera you will have the views to yourself. We stayed at Old Oia Houses in one of the lower level rooms, had a large terrace where we took breakfast. It was hard to tear ourselves away from the views, it was quiet, you would never know there were crowds elsewhere. Very traditional accommodation carved out of the rock. And the mules & donkeys should not be ridden in Santorini, they really do suffer bad treatment.

If you want Mamma Mia type scenery, head to Pelion. Beautiful traditional villages, very green, mountainous with cliffs right down to the sea, part of Mamma Mia was filmed around Damouchari. It's a very pretty part of Greece.

We want different experiences. When I said "beach", I was describing the experience more than an intent to swim at the beach. It's October.

Last night I was looking at options on Mykonos. I found a beautiful place but it was a bit isolated. Was looking at options in Mykonos Town.

Perhaps I am not describing this well. We will be moving 3 times. Athens for a couple of days. The Oia hotel, with a view of the caldera. The 3rd location = TBD, but one that offers a different feel. Walkable to restaurants/ bars. Less expensive than our Oia option. On Santorini is fine. On another island is fine.

I have reservations back in Athens for the night before our departure home. Now I'm wondering if we should return to Athens earlier and go to Delphi, etc.

Thank you! Researching...

Starrs,
You might find Kaisarianni Monastery to be an interesting place to visit. Removed from the main Athens crowds, nice atmosphere. Its a low-key place and we recommend it.
Endahksi.
I am done. The end.

Thank you! I just checked it out on TA and it sounds like a great idea.

HappyTrvlr, both of those ideas sound wonderful.

Thoughts of rental cars for visiting Delphi and Meteora from Athens?

<< We want different experiences. When I said "beach", I was describing the experience more than an intent to swim at the beach. It's October. >>
I still say that moving hotels in Santorini is not something I would suggest. You can visit beaches, the area around Perissa is ok, the Red Sand Beach if safe enough to visit is very interesting. Maybe a different island or another beach area on the mainland would be better for a beach experience.

We've rented a car from Athens and driven to Meteora, then to the villages of the Pelion (very very beautiful beaches in Pelion eg Milopotamos and tavernas above in the cliffs), then to Delphi, a stop in Galaxidi (recommended lovely town) and back to Athens. A trip such as this gives you a mix of everything, beach, mountains, pretty villages, unique experiences and a city.

I think that may be the perfect solution.

If we do that route you just suggested, where would you suggest we stop for the overnight(s).

Monday and Tuesday at Oia
Wed - back to Athens and driving route
Thursday - exploring
Friday - back in time for an overnight stay in Athens before a flight out the next morning

Fond Memories Part 1
When I was a teenager living in California I was required to read Edith Hamilton’s enduring work, Mythology : Timeless Tales of Gods and Heroes, for a high school English Literature class. At first I was bored. I thought those old stories were silly and not worth my time. But soon my imagination was stimulated; the book became one of my favorites. Later, when I was in college, I enrolled in a course titled, “Myths and Legends of All Nations.” As it turned out this same book was one of the required readings. I still remember my first day of class when the professor’s love for these classic myths inspired me and helped transport me through time to Ancient Greece where I was stirred by the heroic deeds and mischievous acts of the Greek gods, causing me to vow to someday make my way to that enchanted country to find for myself what countless others before me had already discovered.

Many years later I happened to watch a movie called “Summer Lovers,” a romantic comedy that takes place on a Greek island. I was strongly drawn to the village and the house where the main characters lived, because they were so appealing and because they somehow seemed very familiar to me. I knew that if I ever had the chance I wanted to find that village and have a closer look. At the end of the film I saw that the island's location was listed as Santorini. I’d never heard of it but I was determined to go there some day.

The opportunity eventually presented itself in 1985. I sold my business, put everything I owned in storage, hopped on a plane and went travelling for the very first time in my life. After two wonderful weeks exploring Athens and the Peloponnese, it was time to go to Santorini. I’ll never forget the approach by sea from the deck of the ferry boat. At first, from a distance, there didn’t seem to be anything special about the island, but as the ferry moved closer I began to make out its unique shape and geological qualities. I heard others around me talking about the island’s unusual origins. The mysterious "Lost Continent of Atlantis" was mentioned more than once. As we approached from the north it was obvious that this was no “ordinary” island but the remains of a volcano that had erupted many times to create the alternating layers of red and black lava rock that formed its foundation. Apparently this volcanic mass had exploded violently 3500 years ago, creating a giant tidal wave that wiped out the Minoan Civilization on the north shore of Crete 75 miles south. Subsequent eruptions caused much of the original island to disappear into the sea leaving behind the crescent-shaped island I was seeing for the first time that day. Perched on the cliffs high above me were several villages of whitewashed houses cleverly built into the exposed layer of white ash that over the centuries had settled and compressed since the eruptions had ceased. Known as “cave houses” because they were constructed by digging into the ash instead building on top of it, they were interconnected by zig-zag pathways meandering over and under, through and around each cluster. Eventually these clusters grew into what I was seeing that day, small communities overlooking the volcano's caldera. I can still hear the ship’s horn blasting out the announcement of our arrival, and the surprising echo as it bounced back at us off the cliff face.

Once settled in the island capital of Fira I was more determined than ever to locate my “dream village.” After finding a map of the island I started my search at the south end, taking the bus to Akrotiri where Santorini’s most important archaeological site is located. It became obvious to me right away that I was in the wrong village. I was enjoying this exploration, but as I made my way from village to village over the next two days I began to worry a bit that perhaps I was on the wrong island. Finally there was only one village left on my list, Oia (pronounced ee-yah), at the very northern tip of the island. I made plans to be on an early bus the next day.


Fond Memories Part 2
My first bus ride to Oia was something I’ll never forget, for a variety of reasons The bus must have been the oldest on the island, pre-World War 2 vintage, and looking like it had barely survived the conflict. It had definitely seen better days. Then there was the road itself. There were stretches along the way where the bus could fall at least 500 feet or more if the worst occurred, with no guardrails to prevent this from happening. In some spots the road was so narrow that no other vehicle except a motor scooter could pass by at the same time as the bus.

Large chunks of asphalt were missing. The bus bounced and rattled on its way north, stopping occasionally to pick up or drop off passengers. On the positive side, the views of the far side of the island visible from the high road were spectacular. Beautifully terraced fields separated by walls of lava rocks formed a vast checkerboard over the landscape down to the shore off in the distance. Out in the Aegean are several neighboring Cyclades islands, including Anafi, Amorgos, Koufounisia, Naxos and Ios, to name just a few. While sitting on the bus taking it all in for the first time it occurred to me that what I was seeing had not changed much at all in the many centuries since the island had been repopulated once the volcano fell silent. The closer I got to Oia the more I felt like I was traveling back in time, and the more excited I became.

There’s a precise spot on this winding mountain road where Oia suddenly comes into view off in the distance. Words cannot describe how I felt when the bus pulled around that last curve and I beheld Oia for the first time.

Even though I was not yet there, I knew in my heart that this was the village I had been searching for. I could hardly contain myself as the driver coaxed his rusty old metal turtle the last few kilometers into the village. Strange as it might seem I felt as if I were returning home after a very long journey, and by the time we pulled into the bus square I was convinced that I had found what I was looking for. I stepped off the bus into the brilliant sunshine. The excitement I felt only strengthened my conviction that I was exactly where I needed to be. I inhaled the clean, fresh morning air and started into the heart of the village along a narrow, winding cobbled footpath that led me towards the view of the sea I had come to find. This was not the main walk into the village, more like an alleyway, but I was drawn to take it nonetheless.

I made my way through more back alleys to the main thoroughfare which I followed to an overlook where I stopped to enjoy the view. I was in the heart of the village surrounded by timeless architectural beauty, dazzled by the bright sunlight reflecting off the snow white walls of all the quaint blue-trimmed houses cascading in disorderly array down the face of the cliff. I couldn’t help thinking what a fantastic place for a painter or photographer this must be, with the intense light and shadows and angles and colors. It was truly an artist’s paradise.

As I stood there admiring my surroundings something remarkable happened. I noticed below me, just a short distance away, a familiar group of houses. I suddenly realized that I was looking at the house from the movie! Without ever having been there before, with no idea of where it might be, I had instinctively been drawn right to the very house that had inspired me to go there in the first place. I just stood there speechless, not believing my own eyes. Finding it this way was such a strong validation of my decision to go to Greece that I decided to stay in Oia for a while to see what else might happen. I rented a small house and didn't leave for 6 months. It was the best summer of my life so far.

I met many interesting people from all over the world that year, made some lasting friends and experienced Greek life in all it's wonderful facets. I have returned to Oia many, many times since that first wonderful summer and will continue to do so as long as I am able.

Wonderful story, brotherleelove! I watch the same movie, just for the scenery. I can't wait to be there!

Odin, I'm not sure why not. I've used Google Maps to check the distances. It seems fairly easy to get to those locations. Remember, I will have started the trip earlier with three days in Athens. Can you share more information as to why it's not doable. Maybe I'm missing the obvious.

Thanks and thanks!

museum in Athens
 

I'm not sure if this has been mentioned or what your Athens plans are but I'm hoping you've put the Byzantine and Christian museum on your Athens itinerary. It has icons, amazing icons and other items such as vestments, parchments, in a lovely, cool, well signed building. It has much more than what most people would picture of the usual icons - for example a wooden board, maybe three ft. by four ft. with maybe 30 O.T. scenes painted in miniature - I could have spent quite a bit of time in front of just that one item. Since your travel mate is a seminary student, I would think it would be very interesting and meaningful. It is not difficult to get to by public transportation and IMO a lovely way to spend several hours seeing some very unique historical items.

And wondering about what you decided about the ferry from Santorini. My visit to Greece, we ferried both ways to Naxos. I thought it would be a quintessential Greek isle experience - we got bored, even with adult beverages and making some friends to play cards with. The food onboard was horrid It was interesting when we pulled into ports, but there weren't many, watching all the passengers pour off but I found it several hours too long. So I'd advise flying back to Athens. I also think it would be preferable to move to another part of Santorini rather than adding another island (unless a very close one) or a driving trip. Are you planning a caldera rim hike while on Santorini? - that would be nice in Oct.

I loved the food in Greece - fresh grilled fish, the wonderful Greek salads, lamb, and eggplant! esp. the friend eggplant. Enjoy your trip!