![]() |
We LOVED Santorini. We'd never been to Greece before, and were so enthralled with the beauty there. We are not beach people, so we didn't miss that aspect of it. Stayed on Santorini 5 nights, and these are my notes with some pictures:
We liked the Gold Suites @ Imerovigli very much. Very small hotel, about 15 suites, excellent personal service, breakfast served on your private patio, best views anywhere on the island, small pool with nice food served. There were several nice-looking hotels along that section of the caldera walk. The walk is romantic & gorgeous, especially at night. A nice wine bar is in a hotel, right on the pathway. Imerovigli has a bus stop and is easily served by taxis. It's a tiny town, with a market and a cafe or two. In the middle of the caldera. We found a fabulous restaurant that's on the walkway at the top of the caldera, about 10 minute walk from our hotel. It's called La Maison, which is a bad name because it's not really French. It has an amazing location looking over the water. It's simple & contemporary, with an exciting menu and good service. I had a local fish, wrapped in seaweed and fried till crisp, with lime foam. And my appetizer was a wonderful scallop dish. http://www.lamaison-santorini.com And another restaurant we liked a lot, was just before the La Maison, on the opposite side of the path. Larger and busier, but good food and service. (Can't remember it's name, but you can't miss it.) Also, we took a half-day sunset swim/snorkel cruise. We chose a boat that only had 14 clients on it, arranged through our hotel. They grilled shrimp and chicken for dinner. Lots of drinks of all kinds available all day. Very nice. We walked to Fira from our hotel. Really beautiful walk along the caldera. About 20 minutes from our hotel. The town is too touristy, being right at the ferry dock. We took a bus to Oia for the afternoon, from Imerovigli. Oia a classier town than Fira. More expensive. Lots of jewelry shops. Still touristy, though. Too crowded for sunset. Better views from our hotel patio @ Imerovigli. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bef5d351f0.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...84e8ef1812.jpg Our private patio, with breakfast delivered every morning. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da036488e8.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3cf8c623d2.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...00684e0b76.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cf8fc7e641.jpg |
This thread has been very interesting for me. My 20-something granddaughter just spent a couple of days last week on Santorini and put some videos online of the crowds gathered in Oia for the sunset. I have been reminiscing about my visit to the island in April,1984, when we (my husband, 12-year-old son and I) arrived by ferry from Heraklion (the Portokalis Ilios) where we had spent a week. When the ferry docked, many locals met us with offers of accommodation and we went with the Hotel Santa Irini on Perissa Beach for the drachma equivalent of $9 per person bed and breakfast. The room was Spartan with three single beds and a private bath, but spotlessly clean and perfectly adequate for our needs. The next morning, breakfast was a full English, surprisingly. The person in charge had a very interesting accent when speaking English and it turned out that he had been living in Glasgow for a long time and had returned to Santorini to help his relatives in the hotel. We decided to try to stay our second night in Fira, and when we checked out we learned that the total bill was $9, not per person! We then decided to splurge and booked the Atlantis at around $50 for the night. Not luxurious, but with a wonderful terrace overlooking the caldera. That day we visited Akrotiri and wandered around Fira. In one shop, my husband was invited by men who were having a drink to join them. One of them introduced himself as the mayor. The next morning we checked out of the Atlantis and went to the in-town office of Olympic Airlines to check in for our flight to Athens later in the day. They took our checked bags and told us to return to the office later to be taken to the airport. With time to spare, we decided to take a taxi to Kamari Beach to enjoy the warm, sunny day. The black sand beach was not crowded and we enjoyed a bottle of wine. Later we went back to the Olympic office, boarded a bus and went to the airport to await the arrival of the plane that would take us to Athens. While we were waiting, outside the building where everyone was smoking, we saw two men arriving riding donkeys. One of them dismounted, took his bag, and went into the building. The other rode off leading that man's donkey. (Note: our son had a serious allergy to cigarette smoke and our travels in Greece presented quite a challenge from time to time.) The plane arrived and we left. I would love to see Santorini again, but think I would like to go there very off-season.
|
Originally Posted by suec1
(Post 16941557)
And wondering about what you decided about the ferry from Santorini. My visit to Greece, we ferried both ways to Naxos. I thought it would be a quintessential Greek isle experience - we got bored, even with adult beverages and making some friends to play cards with. The food onboard was horrid It was interesting when we pulled into ports, but there weren't many, watching all the passengers pour off but I found it several hours too long. So I'd advise flying back to Athens. I also think it would be preferable to move to another part of Santorini rather than adding another island (unless a very close one) or a driving trip. Are you planning a caldera rim hike while on Santorini? - that would be nice in Oct.
Thanks for the tip on the museum! And I'm really looking forward to the food too. I love Greek food (in Greek restaurants in the US). |
Maybe the following belongs over on that recent 'Go Ahead & Brag' thread? Anyway, a memory from our most recent return to Folegandros via Santorini (October 2014):
'Welcome to Athens Airport for those about to fly to Santorini on flight #126. Olympus Airlines is now currently overbooked, I repeat overbooked.....and we offer a free bonus flight, a free overnight hotel plus 500 Euros cash to any passengers who are willing to fly on a subsequ....." Mrs Z and I made like Usain Bolt to the desk before the airline rep had finished the sentence. *Be decisive, my fellow travellers. I am done. The lucky day. |
P.S. When we visited in October a few years ago, there was a ferry strike which stranded many people on Santorini. We were lucky a local concierge had told us about it, so we bought airplane tickets in advance. So, pay attention to the local news, just in case.
We had taken the 'fast' ferry to Santorini from Athens, and thought it was fine, but we were happy we hadn't taken the ferry both directions. |
>Last night I was looking at options on Mykonos. I found a beautiful place but it was a bit isolated. Was looking at options in Mykonos Town<
starrs, I'd be very happy to help you with this. Can you give me a wee bit more info especially where you've found the beautiful place to lodge at. Even the hotel's name would be enough. I will happily also give you some ideas for the town of Mykonos. Lee, thank you for your posting and in so many ways how you felt reminded me of when I discovered Mykonos, almost six decades ago. It was independent travellers in those days and there weren't many of those. General tourism had not yet arrived. I remember asking an elderly man how long it would take me to walk from Agios Ioannis to the town (no buses in those days and I wasn't brave enough to ride a donkey). He thought carefully and said 'four cigarettes'. I understood exactly what he meant! Bill |
|
Originally Posted by starrs
(Post 16941451)
Odin, I'm not sure why not. I've used Google Maps to check the distances. It seems fairly easy to get to those locations. Remember, I will have started the trip earlier with three days in Athens. Can you share more information as to why it's not doable. Maybe I'm missing the obvious.
|
Wow, Bill, almost 60 years ago! And I thought I was an "old-timer" at 34 years. Mykonos must have been amazing then, close to the beginning of it's reputation as the must-see, go-to Greek island of the jet-setters. And I love the anecdote about the 4 cigarettes! That sums it up in a nutshell.
|
Originally Posted by starrs
(Post 16942442)
Will you be renting a car? That could be a real benefit but only if you wish to get some time away from the hotel and the area it is in. Taxis to/from town will be pricey. I think it’s worth mailing the hotel and asking them about the frequency of their shuttle services as that could be crucial. There is a bus service to Kalo Livadi from town, around 3 times a day, but the timetable isn’t showing at the moment. Unfortuately, I think by October they may have stopped operating it. Here’s the link: https://mykonosbus.com/bus-timetables/ Ano Mera, the island’s second town is much closer and there you will find a few historical sites. Mind, it’s a 20 minute walk and uphill all the way. Apologies almost all of this is about the hotel’s location but it’s a very important factor to consider. Great if you just wish to relax and do nothing. If you want to explore then possibly somewhere closer to the town of Mykonos may be better. Possibly Agios Ioannis, 10 mins by bus to and from town, where the movie Shirley Valentine was filmed? Just checked and the hotel used in the movie is taking reservations up to 6th October, no doubt closing after that date. Manoulas Mykonos Beach Hotel and Resort |
Originally Posted by brotherleelove2004
(Post 16942450)
Wow, Bill, almost 60 years ago! And I thought I was an "old-timer" at 34 years. Mykonos must have been amazing then, close to the beginning of it's reputation as the must-see, go-to Greek island of the jet-setters. And I love the anecdote about the 4 cigarettes! That sums it up in a nutshell.
I know you’ll understand when I say that although I’ve travelled to many places in this world, Greece is the only one that pulls me back year after year. We were such innocents though. Four of us had just left school and had confirmation we’d all been accepted for university. As a well-done gift, our folks paid for the island-hopping trip. Not one of us had been abroad before nor been out of Scotland. It was planned we’d buy simple accommodation on arrival at each island. The first was Syros, the second Tinos where, unfortunately, we got food poisoning. Trying to stick to timetable, we took the short ferry ride over to Mykonos but we shouldn’t have. A few men were waiting at the port and one had two rooms available in his small house overlooking the town. He and his wife had us for a week rather than just a few days as the sickness continued through much of it. None of us ever forgot the kindnesses they showed us during those hellish seven days. Santorini was to be the final island but we never got there. We continued to return to the same family year after year and they ‘adopted’ us. In fact. it’s their kids who now come to visit me! Yes, it’s now a completely different island but only to a certain extent. I’ve often heard that it was Jackie Kennedy who was responsible for it being ‘discovered’. Some local folks agree, some do not. I was never there when they came but would have loved to have seen them both. It is said that after Jackie married Onassis they visited Mykonos regularly and she used to buy unique Cycladic-styled jewellery from a local craftsman (now world-famous) and when back in America folks asked her where she’d got it. Those folks were equally famous people, celebrities etc. who then started to visit bringing with them large entourages. The ball had started to roll and for me it was very noticeable. Always I say to folks to listen to the islanders because that’s how you learn, especially about local peculiarities etc. I remember being told about the large number of Mykonians who have a direct Russian connection going back centuries. Indeed, I once met a great-grandmother there who still used a Russian first name. Finding out why those windmills and houses were/are painted white. How the islanders suffered during WW2 and what they did to survive etc. etc. For me it’s all about listening, learning, confirming and passing it on. I feel sure it is the same for you. |
Originally Posted by billbarr
(Post 16942710)
Apologies almost all of this is about the hotel’s location but it’s a very important factor to consider. Great if you just wish to relax and do nothing. If you want to explore then possibly somewhere closer to the town of Mykonos may be better. Possibly Agios Ioannis, 10 mins by bus to and from town, where the movie Shirley Valentine was filmed? Just checked and the hotel used in the movie is taking reservations up to 6th October, no doubt closing after that date. Manoulas Mykonos Beach Hotel and Resort
|
Originally Posted by billbarr
(Post 16942717)
Finding out why those windmills and houses were/are painted white. How the islanders suffered during WW2 and what they did to survive etc. etc. For me it’s all about listening, learning, confirming and passing it on. I feel sure it is the same for you.
|
What a wonderful story about your Greek "family", and what lovely memories you must have. I made everlasting friendships on Santorini that continue to this day, although my closest friend there just died about 2 months ago. I was fortunate enough to have 2 wonderful 6-month seasons in Oia, Santorini before everything started to change into what is now an unpleasant and wildly-overcrowded caricature of itself. My god, there's even a McD's in Fira now! But still, yes, I'm always drawn back to Greece no matter where else I go. Nothing compares, does it? In fact, I'm just beginning to make plans for my next visit in 2020. Going to try some new islands this time.
|
Originally Posted by zebec
(Post 16940429)
For an interesting combo of Greek musical style mixed with rock, check out the below link for the song 'America's Veins' by Canada's great 'Max Webster' band. It dates from 1977. There was no 'Max' but their zany guitarist-singer, Kim Mitchell, had once played in a back-up band for a famed Greek vocalist all across Hellas and its isles (he's second from left on the album cover photo). Honorable mention song by same band for its Greek influence: 'Coming Off the Moon'.
If you could possibly spare the time, please listen to this remarkable music and crank the volume as loud as you can withstand. Endahksi! Opa! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBSH...nnel=GordonYYZ . |
You're welcome.
|
Originally Posted by starrs
(Post 16942811)
That's exactly the information I was looking for! The two nights in Oia are that kind of nights. I think my friend would prefer to be closer to a town.
|
Originally Posted by starrs
(Post 16942812)
Now I have my homework assignment. THIS is the kind of thing I'd like to learn more about!
|
Originally Posted by brotherleelove2004
(Post 16942813)
What a wonderful story about your Greek "family", and what lovely memories you must have. I made everlasting friendships on Santorini that continue to this day, although my closest friend there just died about 2 months ago. I was fortunate enough to have 2 wonderful 6-month seasons in Oia, Santorini before everything started to change into what is now an unpleasant and wildly-overcrowded caricature of itself. My god, there's even a McD's in Fira now! But still, yes, I'm always drawn back to Greece no matter where else I go. Nothing compares, does it? In fact, I'm just beginning to make plans for my next visit in 2020. Going to try some new islands this time.
|
Like me, you can rely on websites like this one to keep you in touch with your beloved Greece. Between that and visits from your Greek family hopefully you'll keep the flame burning. I'm actually now thinking about not waiting until 2020. I've found some very favorable flight fares for this coming September and have located a fantastic apartment on Chios that's calling my name!
|
brotherleelove: If you are considering Chios then I highly recommend it. It's a beautiful Greek Island filled with history that's heartbreaking but also inspirational. The Mastic Villages in the central and south of the island are a must. There is spectacular mountain scenery, beaches, secluded or easy to get to, and the abandoned mountain top village of Anavatos is a must. The Neo Moni Monastery is one of the most beautiful I've been to and it's location is outstanding, however it's history is an emotional roller coaster. There are other abandoned villages worth exploring in out-of-the-way and secluded areas.
I was there in early October and the tourist presence was minimal, especially the further your get to more rural areas of the island. Even Chios Town was mostly locals out and about. Off season is perfect for travel to Greece. I stayed inside the Kastro Walls of Chios Town and found it a great place to base myself for exploring the rest of the island. It's more of a Greek Village than anything else, has a very "lived-in" character with a lovely town square with numerous shops, markets and tavernas. It's only a short walk to Chios Town filled with numerous options for everything and it was great to get back to my studio inside the Kastro Walls for a quiet and peaceful night of sleep. I can highly recommend Frouri Apartments in the Old Town (http://www.chiosfrourio.gr/). It was one of the best accommoadtions I had anywhere in Greece in a lovely restored and updated building and even had a washing machine! Chios is truly one of Greece's nicest islands and worthy of a stay especially if you have a number of days to explore the entire island. Check out my Chios photos here: https://tinyurl.com/ycgkrqza and my Chios Trip Report here: https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopi...n_Islands.html |
Thanks, Crazyh! Booked my flights today for September. Couldn't believe how low the fares were this time!
|
The mastic from Chios is very famous, I use it in Greek or Cypriot baking such as flaounes at Easter. It’s wonderful in ice cream too, I’d expect some fantastic mastic ice cream in Chios, I wish I was going, September is such a great time to go, |
If you do make it to Chios go to the village of Mesta and try to find the liquor called Souma. It's made from figs and it can only be found in the village. Since' it's not "legal" the locals put it in any liquor bottle they have. I stopped at a taverna and asked if they had any. They brought a sample for me try and it was delicious but definitely high octane! I bought a small bottle and saved it till I got home.
Mesta is one of the best preserved of the Mastic Villages. If there were no utility lines or outdoor lighting you wouldn't know if it was the 21st century or the 15th century! |
Thanks, I'll try it. I'll be there from Sept. 4-14.
|
Originally Posted by billbarr
(Post 16943043)
Not a problem. Happy to give you the details here if you'd prefer not to do too much homework!
|
Originally Posted by billbarr
(Post 16942717)
Always I say to folks to listen to the islanders because that’s how you learn, especially about local peculiarities etc. I remember being told about the large number of Mykonians who have a direct Russian connection going back centuries. Indeed, I once met a great-grandmother there who still used a Russian first name. Finding out why those windmills and houses were/are painted white. How the islanders suffered during WW2 and what they did to survive etc. etc. For me it’s all about listening, learning, confirming and passing it on. I feel sure it is the same for you.
|
Originally Posted by clausar
(Post 16945067)
Dear Bill, this must have been some kind of misunderstanding, as there are no Myconians of Russian origin.. The first name you are referring to could have been a Greek name... many Russians have Greek religious names that are part of the common Orthodox religion.
In all the years I’d travelled to Mykonos I’d never heard about the Russian connection. The daughter of the elderly lady explained it to me and I got confirmation at the island museum years ago. They told me that during the Turko-Russian war 1768–74, Mykonians strongly supported the Russian cause. By that time, the Russian forces, moving against the Ottoman Empire, had already occupied Mykonos and the surrounding islands of the Aegean. They thought that is the reason many Russian names were introduced to the island. BUT, the lady in the bookshop on Matogianni whom I have known for many years told me when she was at school they were all taught that the reason for many Russian female names on the island was much earlier than 1768-74. She said that when Greek men returned to Mykonos after being made to fight for Hayreddin Barbarossa they found their women and children had died from plague. Barbarossa's generals arranged for Russian and Turkish women to be brought to the island. The woman's daughter told me that using Russian forenames on the island stopped around the time of the Cuban-missile crisis when the islanders felt it was not a good idea. In fact, her first name starts Russian and ends 'oula'! |
Thanks so much! My friend has a bit of a break in her schedule so I've pointed her over here for all of your great suggestions. In the next few months, we'll have to decide whether to ferry over to Naxos (or other) for the last two days or go back to Athens and the mainland to see Delphi and maybe Meteroa. I'm fine with whatever and since I chose the Santorini location I'm hoping she'll make the decision for the third segment of the trip. I'll be happy just to be there! We do have a reservation near the Athens airport for the last night. Thanks again for so many great ideas!
|
To put the taste of tzatziki on your tongue. It only ever takes 5 seconds of the following, or any of its ilk, for me to sense the taste.
This song, now more than ever. I am done. The end. |
For everyone visiting Greece an Ancient Drama performance will be one of the best experiences. Oedipus Rex or other scripts of Sophocles aged 2500 years old is a life time experience everyone should have
|
Originally Posted by Heimdall
(Post 16940665)
My favourite memories are listening to spontaneous Greek music on the island of Antiparos. Sometimes there will be a wedding party in a restaurant open to other guests, sometimes there will be musicians playing mandolins on the street. One time when I was at Pavlos Place restaurant the son of the owner (an advanced bouzouki player) was performing along with his instructor. These are things put on for the Greeks themselves, not for tourists. |
Lois2, if you have any plans to visit Santorini there's a restaurant on the south end of Fira called Santorini Mou. The owner plays music and sings for his guests. Sometimes other musicians join in and sometimes there's spontaneos dancing. It's a great place to go for dinner because of this. Call ahead and get an outdoor table to join in the festivities.
|
Thanks for that tip!
|
brotherleelove...thanks for that tip...those places are hard to find as a tourist.
|
Lois2, yes there is lots of music on Antiparos still. Every July, during the Antiparos International Photo Festival are performances at the kastro (castle) every evening, and Pavlos’ son is still performing at the taverna. This summer have been several performances of traditional Greek dancing and music at a permanent outdoor stage near the ferry landing. Friends load videos of performances on the Facebook Antiparos Photo Group. |
Originally Posted by carolyn
(Post 16940385)
Your friend might like to visit Patmos where St. John was banished. We saw the grotto where he is said to have dictated the Revelation to a scribe. One of my favorites was the temple of Athena Aphaia on Aegina. The ruins are on a hilltop where the wind blows around the columns, and I got more of a sense of a civilization "gone with the wind" that I've ever felt anywhere else. There were not many people there on the day I saw it, and I will never forget the experience.
For a future trip, don't miss Delphi. So right now, we are considering the 2 "extra" days on the mainland. Delphi is at the top of my list, based on Fodorite recommendations. That would mean - 2 nights in Athens Fly to Santorini 2 nights in Santorini Ferry back to Athens 2 nights on the mainland = would love recommendations Night before flight near the airport Would you recommend day trip to Delphi from a base location - taking a tour or on our own via bus or car? Depending the night IN Delphi and moving on to next location? I need to get out my guidebooks to read, but wanted to ask for your ideas first! |
We spent 4 nights on Santorini a couple of years ago and LOVED it. Stayed at Kirini Suites, right on the caldera, classic whitewashed buildings. Gorgeous. Make sure to walk down (and up!) the steps to Amoudi Beach, there's a great restaurant down there we went for lunch, Ammoudi Fish Tavern--it was delicious, right on the water, beautiful. Also liked Meltini, smaller mezze type dishes (like Greek tapas) also very good. We did the walk from Fira to Oia one day (bus there, walked back), right along edge of caldera, loved that. Also, one of the favorite things we did was a catamaran with Santorini Sailing--five hours, from 10-3. Picked us up, had the trip, drove us back. Loved our time on the water, stopped in a few great swimming places and we all jumped off the boat for a dip in the water, and served us a great lunch on the boat. Not sure if that will be an option as you are going in October (we were there in September so was a bit warmer) but highly recommend if weather permits. Enjoy!
|
starrs, you will return like we did. You need to visit some of the less touristed islands and spend some time in Napflion too where many of the majoy antiquities are found.. We have been in your locations in October, a nice time to visit. We hope to go to Greece for a third time too to see more of the Dodecanese Islands off the Turkish coast. I hope you enjoy Athens, filled with so many wonders... but, thinking of your Naples post! |
Originally Posted by almesq
(Post 16988967)
Also, one of the favorite things we did was a catamaran with Santorini Sailing--five hours, from 10-3. Picked us up, had the trip, drove us back. Loved our time on the water, stopped in a few great swimming places and we all jumped off the boat for a dip in the water, and served us a great lunch on the boat. Not sure if that will be an option as you are going in October (we were there in September so was a bit warmer) but highly recommend if weather permits. Enjoy!
I will check on that! |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:04 PM. |