DUBLIN: a "MUST-SEE" or a WASTE of time?
 

Is Dublin a must-see or a waste of time? Please tell us why?

I am planning on spending 2 nights in Dublin on our first family trip to Ireland next summer. (Unless you talk me out of it!) Any tips for making sure our visit is worthwhile?

We are planning to make Dublin our last stop. We will turn in our car, and rely on public transportation for Dublin.

Dublin will be the last stop, after visiting Dingle Peninsula, Western Ireland (Cliffs of Moher, Burren), Killarney National Park, Cashel (or Galway), Boyne Valley (Trim, Newgrange), and Northern Ireland (where my Irish grandmother came from.)

Thanks for your thoughts on Dublin!

I liked Dublin, mainly because it's on the sunny side of Ireland. But also because of the connections with great literature - from the remarkable Book of Kells to James Joyce and Oscar Wilde - and my friend's friend, a famous Irish playwright. We had some wonderful food.

So Dublin means for me great literature, great conversation, good friends, and terrific food.

Your visit to any place to what you make it. Hope you will find Dublin a must-see also! :)

I live here so I think its great but its not everyones cup of tea. Dublin is a small city and very walkable. There is enough to keep you busy for 2 days and relax before you head home. What are your interests and what do you like to do? This will give us a better idea for suggestions for you.

S

I loved Dublin and can't really see how anyone could dislike it! There's plenty to keep you busy for 2 days and plenty of great restaurants. You can't go to Ireland and miss it!

Made my first trip to Ireland (11 days) about a month ago and spent only 2 days and nights in Dublin. I loved Dublin and plan to spend more time there next time. Great food, great great people, great pubs, great traditional Irish music, great parks.......I thought it was great!

Larry J

Dublin is great. There are some fine historical walking tours of the city that leave from the Trinity College gate, on Grafton St. I believe. Some tours cover general Irish history and others cover 1916 in particular.

Let me echo everyone else: I loved Dublin. Wonderful museums, great walking tours, lovely people, and just a really nice city.

I loved Dublin as well -- it's such a nice little city! It's bizarre seeing a downtown without skyscrapers, though --

I've been there both trips to Ireland, and will be going again next trip, but only for a couple days. There are LOTS of other places to see and things to do, even just in that area, other than the city. North to Newgrange or Trim, south to Glendalough or Dun Loughaire --

In answer to your posted question, Dublin is neither a 'must see' nor 'a waste of time'. I wouldn't, for example, drive all the way from the west coast to spend time there. But if it came logically at the end of a great two weeks of travelling in other parts of Ireland, why not?

We spent three days there, which in no way qualifies me as an expert on Dublin. As a tourist, however, we found some bits interesting (Book of Kells, St. Stephen's Green, Temple Bar area, etc.), but didn't leave with an overall impression of a fascinating city that we'd be yearning to return to.

Onerof the favorite sites my husband and I visited in Dublin was Kilmainham Jail. The jail was built by the occupying British and was in use from 1798 to 1920. Many historical Irish figures were imprisoned here, most notably the leader of the 1918 Easter Uprising. The jail really gives you a sense of Irish history and the hardships that the Irish people endured.

Thanks for the feedback on Dublin! WHERE did you Dublin-lovers stay in Dublin? Sometimes this can make a big difference.

EASYTRAVELER: Where did you go in Dublin and what did you do to celebrate Dublin's connections with great literature? I love writing and reading!

SIOBHANP: Great to hear from a local! Would love to hear a local's view of your favorite places in Dublin. I'll be travelling with biologist hubby and 2 young adult daughters. That makes 3 writers in the family and 2 avid readers. Our interests are Irish history, culture, music, and dance. I want to experience what's authentically Irish (not touristy). We also love interesting and unique shops and cool bookstores. Would enjoy pubs or restaurants where we might meet some locals. My Irish grandmother has passed on a love and deep curiosity regarding Ireland to me. Thanks for any input! Also, if you had to stay in a Dublin hotel, which neighborhood/hotel would you pick?!

LARRYJ: What were your favorite spots in Dublin to hear traditional Irish music? Your 2 favorite restaurants? Your fav park? Glad you enjoyed Dublin.

GREENDRAGON: A city without skyscrapers, YES! I love it already. (Skyscrapers make me feel claustrophobic.) Can you recommend a hotel in Dublin in a great neighborhood? You have been to Dublin twice, so what are your favorite memories (pub? restaurant? museum? Anything that stands out for you.) Thanks!

RICKMAV: Thanks for your opinion. Yes, Dublin fits logically into the itinerary, as it's most convenient for us to fly into Shannon and out of Dublin.

MNAPOLI: Interesting that you would mention Killmainham Gaol. I am drawn to visit it for the sense of history I think it will give us. did you by any chance visit the Book of Kells and the National Museum as well? If so, for you, how did they compare?

Please help me prioritize Dublin sites as we will only have 2 nights there which is 1 full day of touring. Here are some we'd like to see:

-Killmainham Gaol
-Book of Kells
-National Museum
-Dublin Writer's Museum
-traditional Irish music
-walk: historical area
-Grafton St. shops
-Temple bar area
-Number Twenty-Nine Georgian House

Any ideas of how to trim this list to a great do-able full day visit? (Spending 2 nights in dublin.) Thanks a million!

Melissa--
My friends and I were able to spend only one day in Dublin. We took the hop on/off bus tour, which we actually liked (there was an actual person narrating). We had a good overview of the city and could walk around when we wanted to. Don't miss the Book of Kells. It's amazing! Enjoy your trip!
b

Melissa:
Let me just tell you I returned from Ireland two days ago and I was in the same sort of situtation. Many people were telling me to skip Dublin and it was crowded, dirty and a waste I COULDN'T DISAGREE MORE!! We had a blast in Dublin and decided to stay a third night instead of the original two. However, the only reason we chose the third night was because we arrived late on the first day and didnt have much of a chance to see the city so it really was more like two full days. Personally, we did alot of shopping in St. Stephans Green and Temple Bar. But I would say the Book of Kells is a must!!! We also went to the National Museum and Guiness Factory which I also think is a must. I am not a big Guiness drinker myself but I thought the seven story factory with all the info was great! ENJOY DUBLIN.

Great responses, thanks so much!

BTEWALT: I want to take that hop-on, hop-off bus too. It's a bonus that the narrator is a real person.

SURVFAN: Did you like the St. Stephen's Green and Temple Bar areas better for shopping/strolling than Grafton St., if we have to choose? I'm glad you had a blast and didn't let the dire predictions stop you from seeing for yourself if you'd like it. ANY ADVICE on how to make the most out of Dublin? Am especially interested in a Dublin visit which leaves me feeling like, Hey, I couldn't have experienced this anywhere else...this is unique.

THANKS EVERYBODY for both the positive and negative comments! When I put both together, I really get a more realistic feel for Dublin and your experiences will help everybody reading this post!

Melissa,

I'm back from Ireland just yesterday after a 10 day trip. We covered Dingle, Kinsale, Cashel and Dublin (in Dublin 3 nights). Our plans took us in different directions, in the areas north and south of the City. We spent one day driving up from Cashel and stopping at Glendaloch along the way; spent a day going to New Grange and most of the third day doing a cliff walk from Greystone to Bray and eating in Dalky. That left us a half day to do the Jail, the Book of Kells, and Trinity College tour. The jail was the most interesting. I only had to wait about 10 minutes to get into see the book of kells. The library above that area was more interesting to me and if you are rushed for time or lines are long, I would skip the Book of Kells.
The stores close pretty early so we didn't get much shopping in, but did get to Grafton Street and the Temple Bar Inn. Music doesn't start till 9:30 and we were always too tired to get that far.

Your itinerary sounds pretty rigorous to me (much like the one I set up.) Mostly what I heard from my traveling companions (my sister, nephew and his girlfriend) was that we were on too much of a schedule. By the time, we got to Dublin, they were ready to just "chill". We were all exhausted.

That's probably more than you wanted to know. I did enjoy Dublin, but didn't get enough time. Next time I would make sure I do the hop on/hop off bus, be moe spontaneous and go back to top three the places that interested me most.

Melissa5,
I will be going on my 1st trip this October and am planning 3 nights in Dublin, 2 days of sightseeing and will let you know what happened.

Please forgive the interruption to your thread, I just gotta know....

SURVFAN: So...did you love it? Where did you end up staying in Dublin and Doolin? Did you get to Dingle? Very relieved to hear your thoughts on Dublin as I was feeling the same doubts about the time there. Thanks!

Answer to Melissa5:

The Temple Bar district provided all the traditional music I needed; as for restaurants I prefer to eat in Pubs so I can meet local people. I made friends with a great older guy (my age) who operates a horse and carriage service in town and met a really nice young 30 ish couple who invited me to Wales next year. For a great park you can't beat the beautiful St. Stephens Green park. I spend 3 months a year in France but now I must give Ireland two weeks each spring including the Connemarra, Dingle, Kenmare, Tralee and of course Dublin.

Larry J

Hi, Melissa!

For Oscar Wilde, I really enjoyed his statue in Merrion Square. The statue is kind of hidden behind trees and bushes from the busy streets. One side of the statue's face is smiling and the other side is sad. Near the statue were a couple of low stone pillars carved with some of his wonderful, pithy sayings: "A cynic is a man who knows the price of everything and the value of nothing." Great literary genius, but such a sad life.

James Joyce: there's a bust of him in St Stephen's Green.

My favorite James Joyce site was the Martello Tower at Sandycove. The Towers themselves have quite a history, having been built to defend Ireland against Napoleon. Joyce actually lived in a part of one tower with two other young men. You can visit the small room where all three of them were crammed. Downstairs is a Joyceana where you can buy copies of his books, etc. The area around the Tower is quite attractive, however, Sandycove may be too far for a one day visit to Dublin.

I highly, highly, highly recommend the hop on/hop off bus. Some of those bus drivers are hilarious.

I also highly, highly, highly recommend the Book of Kells. Try to get there early. I had the opposite impression, the library upstairs was just "OK" for me but the Book of Kells was an outstanding experience.

We stayed with our friends, so I can't recommend any hotels. Also our friends chose the restaurants, so I don't remember the names of the restaurants. I do remember one day, when we were on our own, we went into a Wagamama's and my overriding impression was "Oh, Aghhhh! Is THIS what some Europeans consider as Asian food? Oh,Arghhhh! Aghhhh!" Otherwise, the restaurants, big or small, were all great.

Have a great trip! :)

LARRYJ: Thanks for telling me about your favorite places in Dublin. I agree meeting the locals is an important part of travelling. Happy world travels. I just impulsively bought a book called "1001 Natural Wonders You Must See Before You Die." Gorgeous photos, great way to get ideas for more trips!

EASYTRAVELER: Thanks for an intriguing glimpse into the literary side of Dublin. I think we will start off our day with a morning visit to see the Book of Kells. I have to see where that hop-on, hop-off bus goes to, and where it doesn't go.

With only 1 full day I really need to prioritize sites! I'm trying to pick all of your brains so I can figure out what our priorities might be! We might get 1 full day and 1 half-day as well (2 nights).

We have to pre-plan because we each have different interests and that way everybody is assured of seeing something that interests them.

If it were up to me alone, we might spend the whole day seeing "literary" Dublin!

12 perfect days:

I loved Ireland and everything I saw. We did not make it out to Dingle as I was told by many to skip it because of the bank holiday crowds but other than that had a blast. We did b&b most the way except in Dublin ( Burlington Hotel) which was very nice and stayed one night in Killarney at the Great Southern Hotel. I really enjoyed Killarney, the national park, Ross Castel and the shopping there. Killarney was def a tourist area but I think worth it.

Melissa:

I prefered Temple Bar for shopping but whatever you decided to do dont get to stressed and have fun that is the important thing.

I really enjoyed the National Museum. Seeing the gold jewelry and pieces from far earlier times is fascinating. It makes sense to believe in the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, when folks uncover these treasures. Also, walking through the University library and seeing the National Harp sticks in my mind.

SURFVAN: we won't have any trouble finding interesting things to do for 2 nights (1 full day) in Dublin. Sounds like you planned a great trip!

DANNA: I'd like to see the National Museum for insight into history/culture. How many hours did you spend there? Also, where is that harp you mentioned...is the University library at Trinity College? You mean the same library where they have the book of Kells? Thanks!

I think 2 nights in Dublin will be just right for us, long enough to see something but not long enough to get tired of the city.

Hearing everyone's views on Dublin is helping me figure out what we would enjoy or NOT enjoy there.

I second (third?) the suggestion for the hop-on, hop-off bus. My guide sang to us several times during the tour -- it was great!

I really enjoyed the trip through Phoenix Park, as well as just strolling downtown and people-watching. I also loved the shopping, and I'm NOT a big shop-a-holic.

My two times in Dublin didn't involve staying IN Dublin -- once I was in a B&B north of Dublin, and once in a B&B in Dun Loughaire, south of Dublin. I rented a car both times, and yes, I drove in Dublin. That was my first time driving on the left, too! I survived :) (and I was alone... no navigator).

The people are the best part. They are delightful, friendly, and musical, far more than Americans are. They truly do sing at the drop of a hat. Yes, there are kitschy areas of Dublin, but some of them still appeal to me, being a tourist.

One of the most peaceful moments was watching the sunrise on the beach at Dun Loughaire.

I think 2 nights is perfect. Enough to see the city but you also leave a good amount of time to see the explore the best parts of the country:) Sounds like a great itinerary. I'm jealous:)

Hi, Melissa!

The Dublin bus has its own website. Just google/yahoo "Dublin hop on bus" and you should be able to access the website. The buses are very frequent: about every 10 or 15 minutes. Beware, however, that they advertise the entire loop as being about an hour and half - well, NOT during peak traffic hours!

If you all have different interests, you might split up and each stop off where each one wishes. The loop covers all the major sightseeing locations. Meet up at night for dinner or back at the hotel.

Have a fine trip! :)

Yep, in Trinity College, above the Book of Kells. This just looks like a library you want to be able to climb up the ladders and poke about!

Everyone's answers are a real EYE-OPENER as I never expected so much interest in Dublin. Many thanks!

GREENDRAGON: I want a singing bus-driver too! Big cultural difference there. Can you imagine a bus driver or guide in the USA singing? How cool...I've heard some singing cooks in the USA, but they are usually foreign-born...Do we just stifle the songs out of people here in the USA?

Greendragon, which did you enjoy more, staying just north of Dublin or staying just south of Dublin? Do you recommend a particular B&B? Can you advise me on the following options:

I'm debating whether to stay in Dublin, within walking distance of some major sites, and near the hop-on, hop-off bus route...
OR AS AN ALTERNATIVE stay in Dun Laoghaire for 2 nights, take the DART into Dublin for the day, and also enjoy an evening of Irish song & dance near Dun Laoghaire held by "Comhaltas Ceoltoiri Eireann" at the Cuturlann na Eireann near the Seapoint DART stop (www.comhaltas.com). Ahhhhh! These Irish names are challenging!!!!!

By staying in Dun Laoghaire we'd probably see a bit less of Dublin though. Also we'd probably arrive later to the Book of Kells, and have to deal with more crowds.

EASYTRAVELER: Good to know the hop-on hop-off Dublin buses run so frequently, every 10 or 15 minutes. Very convenient.

DANNA: So that's 3 reasons to see Trinity College: the Book of Kells, the old library, and the national harp. Sounds good to me.

Thanks everyone!

Hi Melissa.

I love south Dublin, it's where I stay with friends when I visit. However, as you have only 2 days and a pretty full itinerary I would stay in the centre if I were you. You could always use the Dart to go to Dun Laoghaire and attend the song and dance evening.

I havn't read all of your posts but the National Museum in Dublin is actually 3 different Museums

Collins Barracks in Benburb Street - Arts, social and political History.

The Archaeological Museum in Kildare Street - Celtic Viking and Medieval Art.

The Natural History Museum in Merrion Street - stuffed animals

The Archaeological and natural History museums are close by but Collins Barracks is on the other side of the Liffy.

Helen

The suspense is terrible. I hope it will last.

The B&B I stayed at in Dun Loughaire was in one of those voucher books -- I didn't keep good notes on that (my first) trip to the UK, so I don't know which it was. It was clean and pleasant, but nothing spectacular.

I very much enjoyed the area of Dun Loughaire more than the area I was in north of Dublin. It is more laid back and gracious, IMHO -- I stayed near a fort on the coast.

Somwhere at home I have a photo of our singing tour-guide. here's the excerpt about him in my travelogue at www.greendragonartist.com/TDCireland.html :

Out of Trinity College, and onto the nearest bus stop for the on-again-off-again city tours. We got our all-day tickets, and did our first round of sightseeing. We passed the Guinness factory, Phoenix Park and Zoo, and of course the famous statue of Molly Malone. Our tour guide had a wicked sense of humour, even though you could tell most of his jokes were pre-written and standard for the guides. However, he also serenaded us with a selection of songs, including 'Molly Malone'. In addition to his wonderful singing, he told us of one of the nicknames of the famous statue: "The Tart with the Cart". He showed us the statues of two other ladies, with shopping bags on a nearby bench, called "The Hoors near the Sewers" or "The Hags with the Bags!".

He was great! Email me at [email protected] and I'll send you his pic, so you can pick and choose him on your trip :)

Hi Melissa I have been away and just caught this.

Ok do try the hop on/off bus as it fits most things you want to see. for Music try the Musical Pub crawl at the Oliver St John Gogherty in Tewmple Bar or try O'Donoghues in Merrion Street. It gets crowded and they pub is a bit old but it can be fun.

There is a literary Pub crawl most evenings starting at the Duke Pub on Duke Street off Grafton Street. And the bigger book shops are Eason's on O'Connell Street or Kildare street has Hodges Fidgus and Waterstones opposite sides of the road from eachother.

The Chester Beatty Library behind Dublin Castle is my favourite place. It houses the largest collection of Asian Arts in Europe, has a Fantastic gift shop with all sorts of unusual items and the cafe has great food with a med/arabic belnd. I love the felafel and their coffee. I would put this on my list!

For accommodation I assume you will need 2 rooms...well there are a wealth of place but I would avaod Temple Bar due to noise factors but I need a price range from you as I could give you hundreds and many areas are nice to stay in. For example an adorable small hotel on Northumberland road is the Schoolhouse (It was once) or Jurys in Ballsbridge/Christchurch. Or blow the bank and stay at the fourseasons :-). Give me a guideline and I can help better.

There is a book shop on either S. Anne Street or Duke Street (Both off Grafton St) that sells old books and is interesting. They are helpful if you have anything specific you are looking for and helped my uncle find a book from his schooldays.

The park in Merrion Square where the statue of Wilde resides is wonderful and a little haven. Artists shpw their painting here at the weekends and there is some nice artwork on show...and some awful stuff too!

I've been to Dublin 2 times and are planning to go back for 3 days next May. Dublin I think is a must -- just don't try to drive it. It holds so many things to do and see. The energy there is great. I've seen different things both times I was there.

carkat

Hi there,

I stayed at the Morrison hotel which was very nice and central. I think we got a special deal from lastminute.com as otherwise I think it is a little pricey.
Kate

HELEN: I think you are right, I will stay in Dublin but try to take the Dart into Dun Laoghaire for an evening of song and dance. Since we only have 2 nights in Dublin that makes the most sense. (Though Dun Laughaire is VERY tempting to stay in...)

Helen, thanks for mentioning the National Museum is 3 museums and not all the same location...naturally, hubby will choose the Natural History museum, I will choose the social and political history museum, and daughters would probably prefer the Archaeological Museum. Have you seen all 3, and does anybody have a suggested amount of time to spend in each one? (I have been in museums that you can see in 1 or 2 hours and others which take all day...)

GREENDRAGON: Your Dublin singing tour guide sounds fun. I dived head-first into Irish geneology research and haven't had time to e-mail you yet (or Helen either!) Thanks for the great tips and also your enthusiasm is catching!

SIOBHANP: I appreciate your recommendations for Dublin musical pubs, and good bookstores are always #1 on my list. Yep, hard to drag me out, but hubby will manage. (But I will have to drag him out of the Natural History museum!)

SiobhanP, I'd love your B&B or hotel recommendations. Appreciate the tip on avoiding noisy Temple bar area hotels. You asked our price range. We will need 2 double rooms and are willing to spend up to 150 euros per night in Dublin ($180 USA dollars...eek!)

I prefer clean rooms, QUIET at night for sleeping, with some local character...if they are run by a friendly Irish family, even better. Prefer B&Bs with character but will accept a Dublin hotel if it has convenient location and is quiet.

Since my beloved Irish grandmother had a delightful brogue, which she never completely lost, I am partial to hearing the Irish speak, and would prefer to stay in a friendly Irish-family-run place where possible. Thanks for your recommendations!

B&B or hotel location convenient for visiting Trinity College in early morning would be great, either on foot or near hop-on, hop-off bus route.) Also Dublin B&B/hotel in convenient location to take DART to Dun Laoghaire for evening of song/dance would be ideal.

We enjoy hotels or B&Bs in interesting walkable neighborhoods.

Many thanks for all your help and any hotel/B&B recommendations for Dublin!

Hoping to spend LESS in B&Bs throughout the rest of Ireland though.

Try Trinity Lodge its a small hotel on S. Frederick street in a renovated townhouse. We get a business rate of 135.00 euro but see what they give you. Its in the city beside a nice italian cafe with Real italian food and close to the museums. Check out www.trinitylodge.ie Or Jurys christchurch for cheap and cheerful.

M5..Can't recommend " hop on/hop off" enough. Dublin is most interesting.Great Georgian buildings and the Book of Kells..Magnificant!!! You will return I caqn promise you as myu husband and I are goint to do Sept.4 on our way to Paris from chicago. the most economical fare to Paree was Aer Lingus through Dublin. How could we turn that down?? Do not miss Newgrange burial site and Trim castle either. My maternal grandfather came from county Antrim..It was like going home. Have a great time.

Hi M.5 Another thought..We rented a car through Dan Dooley. Had a terrible time with it due to an immoblizer but exchanged it with no fuss at all in Belfast after driving from Dublin. The staff was great...Check them out..

I have had better experiemces with Dan dooley than hertz in Dublin. I would reccommend them.

Looks like you've gotten good advice on
Dublin so far, Melissa, and I like your list. You've covered what we enjoyed several years ago, such as Writer's Museum, Book of Kells, National Museum, Kilmainham, etc. Patriots Pub nice across from the Gaol. And of course the trad Irish music such as in Temple Bar area...actually Temple Bar itself along with Fizsimmons and Oliver St. John Hogarty.

In Dublin we did lots of walking and we are seniors. Stayed at the Charles Stewart Guesthouse (there a lots of such B&Bs) on O'Connell St. across from Gate Theatre. Which reminds me that we took in two stage plays, one there and the other of course at the Abbey. And if you are on north O'Connell you will of course stop in to see the murals in the post office. Would also mention Evensong at Christ Church and Dubliana display there. Would also say skip the Guinness tour though liking dark ales.

BTW, Dublin friends, is it true that Bewleys on Grafton is no longer in business?

So a yes to Dublin along with Cashel and Newgrange and Glendalough and the lovely West in Ireland.

Ozarksbill
[email protected]