|
Died & Went to Heaven! - Six Days in Provence One Night in Paris!
We took advantage of the Air France fare sale last May and booked as far out as we could. We left on March 4 and returned March 12.
The AF flights from ORD-CDG and back went smoothly. They have 2-4-2 seating in "steerage" which was very comfortable. I was very impressed with the level of food service and enjoyed the complimentary wine and cognac. TGV from CDG to Avignon was relaxing. Surprisingly there was snow from Paris all the way to Valence. At Avignon we picked up our rental car from Europcar arranged through AutoEurope. Rental cost including limited insurance coverage (Diner's Club picked up the rest) was under $300. this also included a free upgrade. We received a brand new Peugot 370 four door sedan with CD player and power options. The 5 speed transmission was very peppy. I felt like James Bond driving through the hilly hairpin turns from St. Remy to Les Baux. I was very proud of myself for not only not having anyone overtake me but passing a few cars myself. We arrived at our destination - le Moulin de Greoux just outside the village of Maussane-les-Alpilles. This is a beautifully restored and renovated olive mill dating back to the 1700's. We were greeted at the gate by the most friendly retriever "Coco." We were weary from our overnight flight and train ride but the sight of this setting was most exhilarating. The main house has, I believe, three guest rooms but we stayed in a seperate guest cottage named the Forge. This petite maison has it's own living room with fireplace, bedroom, bathroom and fully stocked eat-in kitchen. Patricia had a fire going in the fireplace, a bottle of wine, loaf of bread and olive tapenade, etc waiting for us. How cool was that! Whoops! Gotta go. More later.... JoeG |
PLease tell more about your trip. I will be in Paris at the end of May but one day I would love to visit Provence.
|
Sounds terrific, Joe.
|
Joe G
I have made the same trip a half dozen times. I vicariously enjoyed your notes (We stay in St. Remy), Any good restaurants on your visit? Thanks. Anthony |
As if our arrival wasn't enough to die for, we were invited to join Patricia and her husband Alan for dinner. After unpacking and freshening up we ambled across the courtyard to the main house.
We were given a tour of the house. The level of restoration and furnishings is amazing. Each room looked like a photo from Architectural Digest. The antiques and collectibles could provide enough material for an Antiques Roadshow mini-series. Normally with this type of setting the atmosphere is cold and stiff. And yet with three (friendly) dogs running around, the atmosphere was warm and homey. This was further enhanced by the gracious and laid back manner of our hosts. The kitchen is truly too die for. I have seen smaller apartments. This is not a "trophy kitchen" however. We were served a great meal that featured a herb crusted pork filet that was so tender and juicy you could cut it with a fork. After several glasses of wine and a sumptuous dessert we were invited to join our hosts for a wine and cheese tasting event in Arles the next morning (Sun.) at 10:00AM. After being awake for nearly 36 hours we returned to the Forge where we promptly crashed. Next - the wine tasting.... JoeG |
Joe, is there a website for le Moulin de Greoux? It sounds wonderful!
|
ttt
|
|
Joe, Enjoying your report. My wife and I spent a few days there in the late 90s and loved it, also.
((H)) |
Joe, we will be in Arles in September. I visited the website, but there is only pictures of the forge. How expensive was this? Did you do any of the cooking classes? I e-mailed them for more information, as this looks great, just hope it is within our price range. How many nights did you stay?
|
JoeG:
You're making me extremely jealous! I would normally be right there at the moulin this time of year, cuddling Coco (who, by the way, was bought at the market in St-Rémy - best market purchase ever!)and helping PB whip up delicious things in that kitchen, but my plans had to be scrapped this spring. Glad you had a great trip. I bet you had a bit of wind, though, eh? |
StCirq,
You are correct - the wind - Mistral was intense. Someone said that "You know it's a bad wind when they give it a name." Brilliant sunshine though. Anyone that is interested in more info can contact Patricia at [email protected] - she has excellent photos. Sunday morning we made sure that we didn't oversleep because we really wanted to do the wine tasting. The drive to Arles was a familiar stretch as we drove this route many times on a visit to this area two and a half years ago. The village of Fontveielle has many inns and an inordinate amount of what look to be neat restaurants. The wine tasting took place in gymnasium of what must have been the equivalent of Arles High School. What fun it was to go with someone that spoke the language fluently with all of the vendors. All we had to do was drink wine and eat cheese, sausage and all kinds of food items. Not your usual Sunday morning activity. I was quite taken by the number of wineries represented and the relative reasonable cost of the wines. California wines have gotten so expensive. Lynn bought two types of mushrooms - morrel and one other - really expensive. 40E for a small paper bag full(it seemed illegal). We also bought some frozen escargot that had the garlic butter sauce already in the shells. More about these later. It took a couple of hours to poke through the entire event. I lost count of how many wines we sampled but it seemed to enhance a delayed jet lag reaction. On the way back, we had to pause while a sheep herd crossed the road. Lynn took several great photos of this event. Particularly good was the shot of the rams eyeing her with bad intent. We returned to the Forge to take a short nap. Once rejuventated, we ventured off on a long drive through the countryside. We started getting hungry around 5:00 and noticed that one of the bakeries in Maussane had re-opened. We proceeded to buy at least one of everything including bread, pastries, chocolate, even pizza. When we returned to the Forge we combined all these goodies with the wine, sausage and cheese purchased earlier, built a fire and proceeded to stuff ourselves silly. I was pleased to discover that my iPod worked great with the small stereo so we spent the evening cozying up by the fire, reading and listening to great tunes while the Mistral howled! More later...... JoeG |
Monday we decided to drive into the Luberon, an area we never really penetrated on our previous visit. Our only regret with visiting at this time of year was that nothing was in bloom. The upside, nothing was crowded. It was extremely picturesque driving through the countryside and the hillside towns of Roussillon, Gordes, Menerbes, Bonnieux. We stopped in Roussillon for lunch at one of the few places that was open. We did get lucky and had a terrific meal.
Upon our return later in the day, we were invited to have dinner with our hosts and a house guest of theirs from the States. What a treat! Patricia whipped up another excellent meal featuring a Coq au vin entree that melted in your mouth. I brought a bottle of 1988 Duckhorn Cabernet from home and hoped it hadn't turned bad. The first taste was a little iffy however Alan poured it into a decanter and after letting it breathe for awhile it seemed to open up quite nicely. I've kept a fair amount of good wine dating back to 80's vintages and I've come to the conclusion it's better to drink it right away. Eating great food, drinking good wine with interesting people in a fabulous environment, what could be better than this? Tuesday we had no agenda and Patricia suggested Pont du Gard. We were off. This was another sight we had not seen and it was quite imposing. I can't believe that they let people walk across it. It looked like this attraction is set up to accomodate hundreds if not thousands of visitors. On this day we saw no more than 8 or 10 other people. From Pont du Gard we drove to Uzes where we poked around in the village and had lunch in a tavern that was bustling with what seemed like locals. It's so fun to just sit and absorb all the atmosphere. Even in this establishment which we would characterize as "bar food" back home we had a great plate lunch featuring steak au poive. We had been out and about for three days now and I still had not heard any English speaking tourists. That evening we had dinner reservations at La Petite France. Two years ago we had a very memorable meal there. It was very formal with many courses. Since then they apparently "turned in" their Michelin star. It is now less formal and is called Bistro La Petite France. We thought the changes were for the better. Much more relaxing atmosphere, not so stiff. You could order ala carte but they had a prix fixe four course meal for 25E that we thought was a great value. Lynn had a guinea fowl that was rolled with vegetables, herbs and spices that was extremely flavorful. Now instead of the cheese carte, they have a cheese course featuring four unbelievably yummy local cheeses. We also had an excellent, reasonably priced bottle of wine from their well crafted wine list. Next - market day in St. Remy. Joe |
Joe,
Loving your report as we will be there next month. Keep updating us on this trip. Sounds like you had a great time. Ginny |
Joe -- your report is bringing back wonderful memories of past trips to Provence and great anticipation of our next trip there in October. Thank you! We just used our tickets from that same Air France sale for a long weekend in Paris for the annual soldes in January.
|
I too am enjoying your report. We were in Roussillon during the Mistral once. We were actually sitting outside at one of the cafes in the square when the wind struck up and all of a sudden the umbrellas started flying everywhere (they were not the types that went through a hole in the table). Got a little dangerous, but it's a fun memory. |
Joe, it's wonderful to read your account. Thanks so much.
The mistral ...the Michelin guide says that Madame de Sévigné described it as "that bitter, freezing and cutting wind," and isn't there a saying in the south of France that the mistral can tear the ears off a donkey? It certainly is miserable when it strikes. Anselm |
Wednesday we departed early for the
St. Remy market. There is a very easily accessible municipal parking lot as you enter town from the south. It's only a few short blocks before you get into the heart of the shopping district. In spite of the Mistral there were many vendors spread out over a several square block area. Because we enjoy cooking and had a fully equipped kitchen, we were looking forward to buying fresh vegetables as well as goodies to bring home. Lynn bought some kitchen towels and two really nice scarfs. We also bought some neat containers of sea salt from the Camargue, which is probably a big rip-off but who cares? We got all kinds of vegetables (for potato leek soup), salad fixings, bread and several pastry and dessert items. We figured that we could add the escargot that we bought at the wine tasting event on Sunday and together it would make a good meal. Lynn had been looking for the Joel Durand chocholate shop and on the way back to the car we found it. They have many flavors of chocoalate candies each with a letter on it. You can combine these to make someone's name. They wrap these in nice little boxes and they end up making great gifts. We spent a lot of money at this place and returned on Thursday and spent even more. Lynn claims this is the best chocolate that she ever had! On our previous visit to this area we became hooked on the local olive oil. We brought some home with us and of course ran out of it very quickly. Since that time I've been ordering from France from various places on the internet. The shipping is very expensive and it takes four or five weeks. I've recently found a place in Seattle - chefshop.com that carries it. Very expensive to buy but cheap to ship and it takes less than a week. Long and short of it - it costs three to four times what it costs to buy it in France. The olive oil that we like the most is Mas des Barres right in Maussane. As luck would have it is just down the road, walking distance from Moulin de Greoux. We stopped at the little store that they have at the mill and bought four litres. I would have gotten more but was concerned how much I could fit in my luggage. We also bought many bars of soap, olives and tapenade. There was a very sweet girl working in the gift shop that spoke a little English and was very helpful. We returned to our our petite maison with all the booty collected during the day. Lynn made the soup and and I made some homemade croutons with the olive oil for the soup and salad. The Forge was filled with pleasant aromas. Since Patricia's house guest had left and Alan was away on business we were thrilled that she accepted our ivitation to join us for our little meal. It was especially good since she brought little gadgets to fish out the escargot from the shell. We made a fire, put on some music, opened a bottle of wine and had a very enjoyable little meal. Next....... Wine and Tripe for breakfast!!!! JoeG |
JoeG, I think your title is right on the money: reading about your vacation does sound like you died and went to heaven! Aren't the markets wonderful? My husband and I returned from Provence with suitcases stuffed to the brim with goodies purchased at the market in Uzes. Food and pottery were our favorite finds. My friend Marcy, who just came back from a trip to France, was bemoaning the fact that the lavender honey she brought back is now sadly finished, as is the olive oil...good reasons for a return trip, heh?
|
Anselm,
I think we saw a few loose donkey ears blowing around! LOL. mermaid, We brought an extra suitcase that folded flat in our luggage and packed it full on return. It was really, really heavy. The Mas des Barres has their olive oil packed in tins so they are easier to pack than bottles. Airport security at CDG wanted to know what all the metal objects were. KT Tomlinson, What did you do for your "long week-end in Paris?" I love that concept. I think we have one in our future. The cheap air fares really make that a possibility. JoeG |
Joe and Lynn Just the sort of report I have been looking for. My husband and I are heading off to Uzes for a week and Paris for a week. Could you advise if its best to get the train to Avignon or Nimes if we want to pick up a car and drive to Uzes?
Thanks for a great story. |
LynM
>could you advise if it's best to get the train to Avignon or Nimes< Having done both, it seemed much easier going through Avignon. It's a new station with easy access to all the rental car companies. The cars are on a surface lot and it is easy to get in an out of town. Travel time from Nimes to Uzes is probably similar but it is a much older station and the rental car situation can be much more confusing. The cars are parked in an underground lot and as you depart the station you can get lost quite more easily. JoeG |
Welcome home, Joe
Somehow I missed seeing your trip report until just now. The title of your thread is perfect! I've poked around a few of the same places ,in Provence , that you and Lynn did. < We made a fire, put on some music, opened a bottle of wine and had a very enjoyable little meal. > Oh, I like your style.:-) Looking forward to your wine & tripe brekkie chapter . Judy |
Ummmmmmm, Yummmmmm.
|
LynM, just another vote for Avignon TGV as a gateway. As JoeG points out, it's very easy to get your rented car in and out of the TGV station.
When you leave the station, drive north a short distance to the Rocade Charles de Gaulle (a ring road around Avignon). Head left on the Rocade and watch for signs for Nîmes ... follow those up onto the Pont d'Europe, which will take you west across the Rhône. Once you're on the bridge, you're on the N100. The N100 will take you to Remoulins, where you'll see signs for Pont du Gard and Uzès. The driving time from Avignon TGV to Uzès is about 40 minutes. Anselm |
Anslem and Joe
Really appreciate your responses Lyn |
Thursday morning we wanted to go the Maussane market with Patricia. Before going to the market, she took us to her favorite cafe in town for coffee. Soon we realized this must be a weekly ritual as she was joined by several colorful artist friends. Apparently all the locals know Patricia. Wherever we went people would stop and warmly greet her.
The cafe was more of what we would call a small local bar. Given the time of day, it was quite lively and filled with all the local characters. It seemed like Lynn and I were the only two people not smoking. At a table next to us there was a group of five or six men, all smoking and drinking wine. They were being served a huge platter of what we were told was tripe. I must admit that it smelled pretty good. I had my camera with me and wanted to take a picture of this scene it the worst way. I don't think that I will have too much difficulty recalling this image in my mind. What a slice of life! We finished our coffee and headed to the market. Small in size but well represented, it seemed to have all the vendors we wanted at then some. Lynn bought a couple of pictures(I want to say decoupage?), a tiny little container of saffron, and a huge container of paella. They also had the pizza wagon. I remember when we stayed in Arles last time, at dusk these would suddenly pop up all over town. These are medium size trucks with fully equipped fold out pizza kitchens in the back. We headed back to the Forge and I made a delicious omelette full of the cheeses, tomatoes, shallots, ham etc. that we had accumulated in the fridge. Having a kitchen can be a blessing and a curse. Without one, you are forced to go out for all your meals and we missed out on a few local restaurants that we wanted to try. However, we loved it. It was so fun to buy all the local stuff and come back and enjoy it. Lynn decided that we needed to go back to Joel Durand's Chocolate Shop and so we did. On the way back I decided that we needed to go back to Mas des Barres and pick up a couple more liters of olive oil. We stopped in town a picked up a few more delicacies at our favorite local bakery. When we returned to the Forge, we sadly began packing for our Friday morning departure. We had accumulated so much food that we decided to eat-in for dinner again and finish everything including the small vat of Paella that Lynn bought at the market. The Paella always looks so tempting when you see it cooking. I'm glad we tried it, but a better choice may have been the pizza wagon. We made a another fire, polished off our wine and spent the rest of the evening finishing the books that we were reading. Next.... On to Paris JoeG |
This has been so much fun reading your experiences. I'm going to Provence forthe first time next month and have made accommodations, but I really want to go back now and stay somewhere with a kitchen and go to the Markets and cook. Are you really an incognito public relations for Provence?
|
You have me reading on loving every delightful little morsel. What a wonderful description. It sounds so laid-back and lovely. How many times have you visited Provence to have everything so relaxed sounding but so productive? We are leaving in 6 weeks I can hardly wait. You two will inspire me !
|
nancyz and jazzyred,
Thank you for your kind remarks. So much of what we learned came right here on Fodors. There is such a wealth of high caliber, current information on this forum. JoeG |
Hi Joe
You were going to tell us more about the escargots in garlic butter(hope i didn't read over it) I have started writing menu ideas for the days we don't eat out from some of your ideas. We arrive on a Friday so we can go to the markets on the Saturday. We will have a week in Paris after Uzes so any left overs that are transportable will be taken with us. When does anybody get any work done or sleep reading Fodors? Lyn |
Lyn, I've been thinking the same thing ...about the work and sleep! This is highly addictive!
|
Lyn, I regret hijacking Joe's thread again, but I just wanted to mention that you'll find wonderful food in Uzès. On market days, you can buy fresh fruit, vegetables, fish, meat, and cheese in Place aux Herbes. There are several colourful regulars there. The "brébis boys," as my wife calls them, sell cheese from the Camargue. They are cheeky--one of them was selling cheese to my sister-in-law a couple of years ago and said it was "jeune at douce, comme vous." Also look for the man who nets live fish from a tank ... he taps them on the head with a wooden stick and cleans them before your eyes.
We've tried all the butchers in town and have settled on the Boucherie Martinelli on rue de la République as our favourite. They sell wonderful roast chickens and cooked hams, perfect for light meals or picnics. If you're looking for wine, drop by La Cave du Suisse d'Alger, also on rue de la République. They have a good selection of wine from Languedoc and Provence. If you need any grocery store items, there is a Casino on the boulevard around the town, but the Carrefour on D981 just south of Uzès offers far geater choice, including beer and inexpensive wine. Anselm |
Hi Anslem
Thank you for your great information. This is our first adventure in Europe so your knowledge is invaluable to us. Lyn |
What happened in Paris, Joe?
|
Joe -- we try to do this once or twice each year and and have the luxury of not planning a whole lot, instead just walking around and finding things serendipitously. We try to rent flats, but sometimes that can be difficult for just a few days. We were lucky this year and got a terrific one bedroom in the 7th. We did get tickets to a marvellous concert (string octet and horns) on the first level of the Eiffel Tower one evening, did some gallery hopping in the Marais, went to an antiques fair in Bercy, did a little shopping, had several wonderful dinners with our plunder from Rue Cler, and went to Pere Lachaise for an afternoon (my husband had never been there). I am so looking forward to Provence in October (we're staying in St. Roman de Malegarde), especially after your wonderful reports! Hope your stay in Paris was wonderful, as well.
KT |
ira, I didn't forget about Paris.
We loaded up the Peugot, said our good-byes to Patricia and Alan (and Coco, et al)and vowed to return. As we were driving through the gates of Moulin de Greoux, I saw the pool in the rear view mirror and said to Lynn, "We are definately coming back when it is warm." On our first trip to Provence, we left Arles for an early TGV departure from Nimes to CDG. We made our flight home with very little margin for error. This time I remembered that there is a Sheraton Hotel at CDG right up the escaltor from the the train station. Our Air France check-in is only a couple hundred yard from the hotel lobby. I decided that it would be very convenient to stay at the Sheraton, venture into Paris for an afternoon of shopping and dinner. Saturday morning we could, sleep in (breakfast in bed)and leisurely get ready gor our afternoon flight. and so this is what we did. We asked Patricia if she could make a dinner recommendation for us in Paris. Without hesitating she said "La Romantica!" She explained that it was actually an Italian restaurant outside la Periphique in Clichy. We kind of had our minds set on something more in the heart of Paris. Plus Italian in Paris??? But I learned one thing - Patricia knows what she is talking about! Especially when it comes to food. We arrived at the TGV station in Avignon with time to spare. Plus our train was "retarted" by 45 minutes. We were delighted that they were running at all since there was some sort of general strike the day before. The train ride to Paris was delightful as usual. Very quiet, smooth and relaxing. The scenery is picture perfect. Mostly farms, olive groves some vinyards, gently rolling hills with quaint little villages sprinkled in between. Plus I got these fares at Prem rate for only 20E each. What a bargain. We arrived at CDG @ 1:30PM and just as I anticipated, it was great sliding right into the Sheraton. Now I know there are others that would say, "why don't you stay in Paris?" or "who wants to stay at an airport?" but given the short time frame, this worked out really well for us. The room was well appointed and totally soundproof. Planes were taking off every two minutes and I swear you could not hear a sound. We dropped off our luggage, freshened up and checked with the concierge regarding tranportation into Paris and potential shopping destinations. By this point, mostly out of frustration, Lynn dropped all pretense of trying to speak French. She would just go up to the concierge or clerks in the store and blurt out Anglais! Anglais! Or worse yet, she would speak broken English with a weird French accent. Like somehow they would understand this better than well spoken English. Even more strange, everyone that she spoke to truly felt sorry for her. The clerks became her new best buddies. I could only stand back and watch in disbelief. My only explanation is that Lynn does not have an insincere bone in her body and her good nature must have shone through and overcame the language barier. Anyway, the concierge was most helpful. We told him that we had an 8:00PM reservation at LaRomantica. Since it was now 2:30PM, he suggested that we take the Roissybus right in front of the terminal to the Opera House where there were plenty of shops (Galeries LaFayette). The stores were open until 7:30 and we could taxi to the restaurant. The problem was that I had no idea what he was saying, Wussypuss? Wozzybus? We kept walking through the terminal until we saw it. Oh - Roissybus The fare was @8 euros each. We were finally venturing into Paris. It was Friday afternoon and traffic exiting the city was incredible. Fortunately we were going in the right direction. We arrived at the opera house and lynn had no problem analyzing the shopping situation. I don't know if it was typical but the stores were packed with people in a total shopping frenzy. The buzz was electric and Lynn seemed to feed on this. There was some type of 30 or 40% off sale. Lynn went crazy! She looked like a kid in a candy store. I just found a comfortable spot to plunk myself down and people watch. Periodically she would come back and say, "look at these ear rings I bought, look at this purse, etc. etc." Finally it was time to leave and we went outside. We were totally blown away by all the sights and sounds of Paris. Lynn had been here briefly in college and "sort of remembers the Louvre." After walking around for a while we got in a queue for a taxi and realized there were probably 20 people ahead of us.Fortunately the line moved rather quickly, still we were freezing by the time we got to the front of the line. The driver had a little trouble finding the restaurant and dropped us off about a half block away. Alan had told us that there was a sign LaRomantica and a doorway at the sidewalk. Once inside you walked through a long corridor that opens up to a courtyard. On the left is La Romantica. Once back inside we noticed a warm fire blazing in the fireplace and received an equally warm greeting from the host. We were seated at a cozy table and since it was Lynn's birthday we ordered a glass of Champagne for an aperitif. This actually was an Italian sparkling chardonnay that was unbelievably smooth and tasty. We decided to get a bottle. I had a scampi first course and Lynn had sauteed artichoke hearts with a mushroom cream sauce. Awesome. For a main course I had a Sea Bass with some type of black risoto that looked like caviar. Lynn opted for a house specialty (recommended by Alan). they brought out a fifty pound parnesan cheese wheel on a carte. it was slightly hollowed out in the middle. Our server poured in a generous amount of cognac and ignited it. Whoosh! What a spectacle. After the flamesw dies out he scraped up pieces of the softend cheese and went back to the kitchen. Moments later he came back with homemade pasta and cream sauce and mixed everything together in the cheese wheel, returned the mixture to the pan, plated it and served the birthday gal. Stupendous! For desssert, I ordered the winner. it was the nightly special. Aparfait served with raspberry puree, fresh rspberries and pistachio nuts. the texture of the parfait was so light and creamy. Mixed with the puree, fruit and nuts - too die for!!!!. We polished off the champagne (okay sparkling wine), finished with a cup of coffee and our taxi was ready to whisk us back to the Sheraton. We had only gone a few blocks and I realized that I had left my shoulder back with digital camera, etc at the restaurant. Lynn shouted to the driver, "GO BACK! GO BACk" He apparently didn't understand so she yelled "LA ROMANTICA! LA ROMANTICA". By now he figured out that we had forgotten something and turned around. Unfortunately the restaurant is on a one way street and it took him several tries to find his way back. When we finally returned I opened the door to get out and was immediately greeted by the maitre d' who handed me the bag. "Bon soir, Monsieur, he said, Merci beaucoup. I replied. We returned to the hotel without further incident. Back at the hotel we decided to linger at the bar for a nightcap. In the morning we did order room service and had a delightful and relaxing morning before departing. Once through security we realized that we were still flush with euros and well, we went nuts at the duty free shops. Fortunately, I had enough room in my back pack to carryon all the wine, chocolate, fragrances and yes another purse that we managed to buy before boarding the Air France flight home. Before returning to reality we also vowed to return to Paris for a real visit. JoeG |
Sorry,
I spent a fair amount of time correcting spelling and grammar mistakes and adding a few tidbits but it ended up posting the unedited version. JoeG |
It was incredible. I haven't enjoyed a trip report as much as yours. Thanks for sharing. You made staying at a CDG hotel romantic - what a feat! Congrats on a great trip to you and Lynn and hope you will be able to return soon.
|
>><i>Or worse yet, she would speak broken English with a weird French accent.</i> My husband does this too. One time I actually heard him say, "Me take zee photo, no?" Great report of a memorable trip. . . |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:32 AM. |