|
Z, wow, your trip report is incredible, definitely going in the Fodor’s Hall of Fame! Thank you spending all the time it took to create such a masterpiece!!
|
TW & HT molto grazie both. Few realize that TW has been in the al Fodoria prison for some time now after their arrest for removing sand, plus other items, off the beach at Marina dei Erchie ('marina of the bright pink sand').
Fuhgetaboutit: its an in-joke. Time to wrap up this TR. Here we'll conclude with Minori, Amalfi, Scala and Atrani. Our Part Two further down the road will focus on Ischia. That one is titled 'Beyond Capri: an Ischia TR'. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b7ab28deee.jpg The classic perspective of Atrani, a money shot if ever. That tiny place has become an extension of Amalfi, but don't tell that to folks from Atrani! The arches shown were the setting for the finale in The Equalizer. Does anyone know how one gets a job as a location scout? Just asking. For more coverage of this essential destination, check out Progol's excellent TR. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...71aad360ee.jpg A sign in Atrani's main square directs those who may be tired from the crowds to find some solace by going up via SM Pansa (shown here). Climbers are rewarded by a small pair of piazzas, good places to chill. As this foto shows, it was not crowded during shoulder season. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0b46ab5bba.jpg Atrani's modest marina was a good place to relax too. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...70c1b8e792.jpg Typical Minorese architecture. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dd61af1c47.jpg As above. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af297df98b.jpg Minori's S. Trophimena church. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...17eb6c8f37.jpg Not all stained glass is aged. This pretty modern display was found in that church basement. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...90a1f11193.jpg We had covid. She had the Black Death. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7479ebfc40.jpg It was a pleasure to have rented so close to the church. We enjoy the bells and the activity. One afternoon, a mixed gender scout troupe assemble in the church courtyard right below our side terrace. The kids were rehearsing some sort of show. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c6b49d03e4.jpg Tiny, perfect Minori marina. The small sunny bay with its lungomare was the obvious focal point of social activity. It never felt uncomfortably crowded (there are only 2,000 residents), but there were increasing signs of preparation for Opening Season. Crews trimmed trees, painted parking spots, repaired pavement and made plans to install Lido-style booths on the beach. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...29ceff0954.jpg High tech equipment for subterranean usage. Again the irony. Computer chips being utilized right below a 1,000 year-old church. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...595cbeb7ec.jpg That's amore! The guy on the right says, "Is that a moray?" https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f4a14425c3.jpg These anziana loved Mrs Z and greeted her every time. Their wives knit just behind. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7bbadded19.jpg One of the friendlier staff at Sal de Riso. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f1c7d1e3c.jpg Lazin' on the lungomare. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a4f30778be.jpg Til recently, Angela led a local folk troupe. During May, september and October, one may experience live musical troupes performing in spots spread all along the famed Path of the Gods hike: 'sounds of the gods! It seems that Montepertusso is a good place to experience that music. Who knew? In her honor, a childrens library has been named after her. This likeness does not do her justice. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b3f88ae912.jpg A sign nearby said, "Only 50 steps (up to Hotel X), but worth it!" https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0f03a7cc14.jpg Vase reflection. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c89c8bab00.jpg Minori actually has its own, very modest ancient villa, dating from the 1st century AD. Various historic floods buried the site and preserved it in the process. A small antiquarium/museum is onsite. Above: a modern example of the sort of marble once used by ancient Rome. We got permission from one of the museum staff to pour water over the chunk to enhance its appearance. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8d2573805e.jpg Archaeologist Danieli teaches us about the scavi (excavations). He was in turn, amused by my stories. I told him about my time as a security guard at a Canadian archaeological site back in '82, when my rascal German Shepherd 'Chimo' nearly got me fired after some unauthorized digging of his own! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d41b190f77.jpg Danieli's archaeologist partner Francesca is seen here removing dust off of a bull mosaic. She'd already cleared a dog mosaic. Before... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e58810d209.jpg and after. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...38305878f9.jpg Now onto the seaside resort Amalfi. Covid cancelled our original AC trip. Back then, we'd arranged to rent here as well as a number of other local places. But as it eventually turned out, we were content instead to treat Amalfi as a daytrip. It was plenty busy during our stay, even during so-called 'shoulder season'. We need bases with less bustle. Above: Arab-Sicilian Duomo S. Andrea, with Basilica dei Crocofisso to the left. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...719d22a6c3.jpg Amalfi secret-sharers: "And then he..." https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e4195695ca.jpg In the main square by the fountain, this pair devour a traditional treat, the local lemon cream pastry. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...63d1705a8d.jpg Historic pastry shop Pansa (1830) is a great place to relax at an outdoor table to people-watch. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fa3c8b50c4.jpg Amalfi is also a visual treat. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5a647156e.jpg Chiostro del Paradiso. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7e8d376898.jpg Another perspective, with the Cemeterio Monumentale looming above. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...51687e2f7f.jpg Arty reflection near La Grande Mela (the Big Apple), Amalfi's largest supermarket. an essential address for self-caterers. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e7e61b7661.jpg Vescovado=bishopric. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba12e920ad.jpg Now for a bit about our 'Le Zinefra' rental. We've got a number of PMs about this, including from folks over on the Rick Steves forum. Shown here are the stairs in this former Bishop's residence. they are manageable--one of our neighbors was a 90 year old! But its cute wooden antique, 2-person lift made a big difference. I can still hear its squeaky hinge. Only a dozen easily-handled steps are left to get up to Le Zinefra after taking this aged elevator. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d72b1dbcf8.jpg You can see Le Zinefra's big terrace here. Its the sheeny surface just to the left of the tree line, sandwiched between those autumnal leaves and the straight-line pier. Look close and you might see my underwear hanging up there to dry. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6c630cac21.jpg At the very top is the rental Villa Principessa. We had originally booked that splurge in late 2019, only to have our plans dashed due to covid. Nice place, but we are soooo glad to have instead rented the far-better located Zinefra. Zinefra was stylish, convenient and excellent value for a longer, off-season stay. Principessa may have access to a communal infinity pool, but its doors open directly onto the road. No sidewalk either. Apparently, its male neighbor is prone to nude sunbathing! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ddef3042f5.jpg Villa Principessa can be seen in this smoky shot as well. A nearby neighbor had broken the law regarding when one's trashed may be burned. *This foto was taken from Torre, at Mario Arzano's home. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fa149f8136.jpg Another coastal view as seen from Mario's home. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...495cc9872a.jpg Mario and Filomena's fire-oven. Among their groves and near their tiny church, they live an authentic lifestyle . We salute them for that. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0224205d6f.jpg This view at the end of Minori's pier is where Stanley Tucci ended his local AC episode, as he sipped limoncello with Sal de Riso himself. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6f19b3d3f0.jpg Beach lifeguard Tony Siragusa's wife, Bianca Rosanerro (she kept her maiden name). Here, she is seen en route to telling Tony that she was leaving him for Denzel Washington. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b8852f4dcc.jpg Local man with striking image. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dd3b246386.jpg Fountain reflection. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66a885ce4a.jpg Colorful cloth for sale in Amalfi. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4d0505edb3.jpg This, right here, is why we travel. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f8a5726f9.jpg Local young woman. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bdbf04957c.jpg Candles at the Otium spa. We twice went for massage/jacuzzi at this atmospheric place across from the 4-star Hotel Villa Romana. The company is owned by former mayor Andrea Reale. Personable staffer Milena will lead you through the process. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5257b41333.jpg Pepe Josef is a regular on the lungomare. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1168de60cd.jpg We are nearing the end of this TR. These next half-dozen shots are all from Scala. A wonderful, much less hectic visit awaits travelers there. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...be05557e69.jpg Cuoco cuoco. Far niente. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...49391a64bd.jpg The church at neighboring Minuta is another very popular wedding location. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7027421938.jpg Marble griffin at Scala church door. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e1deb883e3.jpg Detail from church door. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6525d7a02.jpg We sincerely hope that you find your own future travels to be fruitful. Tante Belle Cose. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0af1ce864e.jpg A pair of bumbling Canuck travelers, lost somewhere along the Path of Lemons. Peace always. |
Zebec, this is an amazing selection of photos! I love the photos of the people, the stairs, the different angles you capture, the reflections in water! They all tell a story of where you've been. You have a good eye for composition and details. Just curious. Do you ask the people for permission to take their photos? The close-ups add so much more to your story. I'm always afraid to take someone's photo unless I ask but I'm usually not brave enough to ask. You must be very outgoing!
Love the photo of you and your wife! It's so nice to put a face with the names. What month was this? March? April? Some days must have been chilly. I see some people wearing heavy coats. |
Hi KW, this was March. What may have felt chilly to those folks was not the same for us, keeping in mind that we hail from the land of ice and snow.
We prefer to ask permission for fotos but realistically, that's just not always possible. Close-ups can result from being outgoing. Sometimes I make eye contact, then tap the Nikon while shrugging and making the 'Is this OK with you?' open-hands gesture. During our final days from this trip, we visited the Jardin des Plantes in Paris. There, we chatted with a local dad and his 6 yr old daughter. I explained to her that the cycad tree which we all were standing in front of, was a major source of food for dinosaurs back in the day. As well during that lovely extended chat, the father excitedly explained how his family was days away from their first-ever African safari. So there was already a repoire established. We were permitted to take their foto, but will keep our promise to dad: he insisted that their portrait not appear on the NET. Btw, the daughter wanted our contact info! Cute. Note that we had a number of child and/or family portraits taken with parental permission on this trip that did not make the cut coz the results were sub-standard. Mrs Z and I actually prefer the shot of us together at the end of our 'Deep in the Desert' TR about Jordan. I am done. the turning of attention to Ischia prep |
Just terrific!
Coincidence: Last night I made spaghetti with oil, garlic, parsley, and Gennaro's colatura from Acquapazza one of my favorite restaurants in Italy! I schlepped home that as well as two large bottles from Delfino Battista. Love that dish, that restaurant, and above all, that town. |
Zebec, you must have made a jailbreak, since you're back to your old tricks. I suppose the WC escape helped you perfect your technique.
The supervolcano has its caldera directly under Pozzuoli, a bit north of Napoli. It has numerous active steam vents. Lately it is experiencing increasingly numerous small earthquakes, which raises fears that it's getting ready to blow. We once visited Pozzuoli with a group of friends from our local ski club. One of our group got a little too close to a steam vent, which caused his theretofore secret toupée to curl up dramatically. Balena is the usual word for whale. Cetaceo Is probably what you were thinking of, which is a little-used synonym for balena. Cetaceo also is used for "sea monster". |
The artichoke itself is a flower. The yellow flowers you mention are probably fiori di zucca. Where I live, the zucca flowers in early summer. It has male and female flowers. Once the male has done its work, it is no longer of interest to the plant, and it's then harvested, while the female starts incubating a full-grown zucca. I've never seen its flowers in the market outside of the summer months, but I live much further north.
|
In Italy, a woman's legal name is the one she was born with. If a woman wants to take her husband's surname (but why??) she has to go to court.
In fact, our housekeeper, who is from Moldova, had to get a legal document from the Moldovan consulate when she applied for Italian citizenship, stating that her surname had been legally changed when she married. For the purpose of becoming an Italian citizen, there was a problem because the name on her passport didn't match the name on her birth certificate. When I was young, long ago, it was common for American women to retain their birth surname when they married. It seems this is no longer so, or am I wrong? With the incidence of divorce and remarriage, it must be inconvenient to repeatedly change the documents, and the monograms on the linens. Or do the linens always retain the woman's original initials? I've always bought my linens at the supermarket, unembroidered. |
Loved the final installment of your report. And appreciated your response to Karenwoo’s question about your photos. I had the same question. The photos are all so wonderful and evocative. Thanks for sharing your TR.
|
Jardine des Plantes?! What the hell was I thinking? That visit was actually part of our most recent trip, which was Brittany. Got them conflated in my mind.
Eks, I was hoping that you might appear here coz I remember your Atrani experiences. FWIW, we've booked the next direct flight to your town, and should be there at your place by dinner. Spaghetti with colatura! We'll bring some fabulous Ischian white wine (the Romans called Ischia 'the land of wine'). BV, I was also hoping that you too might appear here coz of your status as a resident. Grazie for those corrections and clarifications. Could've sworn that Bourdain once described Cetara as meaning 'whale' but my memory is not what it once was (see above Paris vs Rome). And you are also 100% right about those edible flowers being instead from zucca. Again, I'd been confused. Btw, 'Zucca' is also the name of our fave restaurant in Venice. As for Pozzuoli, our Ischia report will include a shot or two of that very coastal area. Our rental's side windows faced it and there were some fairly dramatic storms with clouds over Pozzuoli. One of my late mother's closest friends lives in Pozzuoli. More about that in our Ischia report. Studenttobe, you are welcome. Incidentally, that whole issue of photographing people was once the topic of I am done. the permission form |
For those who may have missed it, a reprise. A weekend chuckle.
(from a post back in the spring) 'We visited the ancient Roman excavation of Herculaneum a month ago. Many Fodorites will have been there or at least recognize its status as a sort of smaller cousin to Pompeii. As we arrived at opening time, we both visited the WCs near the entry ticket booth. No fun walking around with full bladders, yeah? However, upon my trying to exit the mens room I got stuck--the damn door was jammed and would not open. That, despite 15 minutes of me trying 'everything', saying many bad words plus poor Mrs Z wondering, "What's taking him so long? No more beans for breakfast." I ended up climbing out through the bathroom window. What made things infinitely more interesting was the school group that was just then passing. You should've seen the looks. "Hi kids! Um...buongiorno raggazzi!! Em, mi chiamo Gregorio..ehhh, mi moglie Elena y mi sono Canadese, turistis eh? Mi retiro anziana insegnante di sosteno..." (blank stares; the teacher stepped between us) I continued trying: "Um...buona fortuna in Ercolano raggazzi , OK?!" The teacher then waved to a security guard in the distance. Poster Little Patrizia Santedicola, class prefect and all-around teacher's pet (whispering to her above teacher): "Eh Mrs Giordano----he was wearing a camera around his neck into the WC!" I am done. the police interview |
Now THIS is a TR Zeb
As far as the photos, you must be channeling Ansel Adams |
You got stuck in the bathroom????? You really had to climb out the bathroom window?????
|
Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17518648)
You got stuck in the bathroom????? You really had to climb out the bathroom window?????
|
Yes, that WC story is 100% true. I originally planned to include a foto of that very WC (which I took as we were leaving) with this TR. But it too did not make the cut--too monotone and dull.
My only embellishment was the security guard. The teacher never waved to any such person. Lucky me that there was a window! Could've been on the third floor too. *I included footage of the Beatles doing a walk-through rehearsal of 'She Came in Through the Bathroom Window' as a jokey tie-in, during my original post about this back in the spring, the one titled 'He came out through the bathroom window'. Millie grazie to everyone above. Ischia soon come. I am done. the f$!9d**$#?g door |
Could've sworn that Bourdain once described Cetara as meaning 'whale' but my memory is not what it once was (see above Paris vs Rome) |
Originally Posted by bvlenci
(Post 17518707)
Maybe Bourdain was confused. The two words are similar. After all, he's a chef, not a zoologist.
The restaurant answered and I told them I was trapped downstairs in the ladies room. It apparently wasn't the first time this had happened, but I was the first to call them to get rescued. My colleague had the same reaction as your wife. She was afraid our meal, or a surfeit of truffles, had given me dysentery. |
Thanks for sharing your experiences and photos from this trip in March. Gives me hope that I can look forward to a report about your trip to Brittany in October some time in the next few months.
|
Originally Posted by bvlenci
(Post 17518494)
...
When I was young, long ago, it was common for American women to retain their birth surname when they married. It seems this is no longer so, or am I wrong? With the incidence of divorce and remarriage, it must be inconvenient to repeatedly change the documents, and the monograms on the linens. Or do the linens always retain the woman's original initials? I've always bought my linens at the supermarket, unembroidered. |
Originally Posted by Trophywife007
(Post 17518898)
Maybe that was a regional thing? My grandmothers took their husband's surname, as did my mom and all my aunts... and I'm no spring chicken... young in my heart, of course.
I know there was a court decision sometime in the 1960s that clarified the situation, declaring that a woman could informally add her husband's surname to her own, but that legally she could only be identified by her birth surname. I asked my husband, whose mother married around 100 years ago, what surname she used when he was a child in the 1940s. He said she had always used her birth surname. The only time I've ever seen a husband's surname used is in funeral announcements, when a woman was from a different area, and her family name was not well known in the town where she lived. Then the announcement might say, "Maria Rossi in Verdi", where Verdi is the husband's surname, and "in" means that she married into the Verdi family. |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:25 AM. |