CORDOBA..hotels, eating, to and from?
 

I'm planning to return to the Costa de la Luz, near Vejer, in March. I have about 5-6 days prior to my stay there to explore somewhere else. Since I've only been to Cordoba once, about 40 years ago, that city seems like a good idea for me. (Alternatively, I'm tempted to return to Jerez, where I spend a wondrous 3 nights last year). I'm open to any options within easy reach of Vejer.

I hope to spend a few days in Madrid before returning home, after my Vejer stay. So I wanted to avoid having to come into the city twice, but it looks as if the train from Madrid is the best way to reach Cordoba, since the city has no airport.

SO: Looking for a great hotel in Cordoba. Hospes Palacio de Bailio looks great but I wonder if it is too far from the main "sights?" If you've stayed there, do you recommend? And if not that hotel, where else might suit?

Just as important, I'm looking for restaurants/bars in the city. Far back, its reputation for dining was not the best but it looks as if things have changed quite a bit in recent years. I've long had NOOR marked down but in general, I like a la carte rather than tasting menus.

Lots of talk on this forum about LA REGADERA. And I like the idea of the roast meats at TABERNA DE ALMODOVAR, but I'm open to anything, really. Prefer dinners to lunches if I have my choice.

From Cordoba I need to pick up my rental car at Jerez airport....if I have time, might stay a couple of nights in Jerez itself but how to get there from Cordoba? (It's a 3-hour drive which is a little long for me to do alone but I could chance it...or maybe stop someplace interesting overnight between Cordoba and Jerez???? (For me, Sevilla is not a one-night stand, so I've eliminated this as much as I adore the city).

Please give any and all tips or advice....they will be welcomed!!

hi ekscruncy,
No, the Palacio de Bailío isn't too far. I was just there this past winter, before meeting you, and I walked up from the Judería. It's Córdoba's luxury hotel, private, serene, with indoor pool, Arbequina restaurant (Michelin recommended), lovely terrace, a member of Mr. and Mrs. Smiths, I-escape and Tablet Hotels. I can't promise that you'll love it as much as the Casa Palacio in Jerez but it has all the bells and whistles.

I have some Córdoba suggestions on Ziggy;s Hungry Onion thread, "Andalucía anyone".
Recently, the Ermita de la Candelaria, for updated traditional in a lovely setting, a former hermitage, the Taberna El Pisto for the Córdoban classics, La Cuchara de San Lorenzo (a Bib Gourmand), Garum 2.0 for one of the city's best salmorejos (very casual, tapas style), Terra Flea (another Bib Gourmand), La Casa de Manolete Bistró, housed in a beautiful mansion, the former home of the late matador Manolete, a contemporary bistrot (Michelin rec) .

If you want to go to Noor, it's tasting menu only. I've been three times to the chef's casual place in the modern quarter, El Bar de Paco Morales, and everything I've had there has been a bit hit. Very, very popular and must reserve. I got luck the last time grabbing an empty seat at the bar. Paco sometimes makes an appearance at lunch time.

La Regadera on the river walk is also casual and gets a steady stream of visitors due to its location.

From Córdoba to Jerez, either train (some trains are direct, others have a train change) or drive, stopping for an overnight in Carmona, which has a nice Parador (I've stayed there).

About el Bar de Paco Morales, which I love:
signature dishes, classic but with an updated, very creative twist: ajo blanco, papas aliñás, salmorejo topped with mozzarella foam and pine nuts, flamenquín (made in a different way with a roasted green pepper), roasted chicken croquettes (from his parents' asador), a mini baguette of calamares in a brioche bun, charcoal grilled bone marrow with tuna and almonds, tomato tartar. For dessert, orange sorbet with ginger and mint. He's constantly updating his menu with new creations, so you may not find all of these. Let your server be your guide.
https://elbardepacomorales.com/

It used to be named "Nanita Bar" but the locals told him to change it, to put his name on the place. Very, very popular with locals.

We'll be in Córdoba right before Holy Week, so unfortunately we'll miss you!

Several typos, including ekscrunchy
My day has been very hectic and my brain somewhat foggy.

Carmona info,
https://turismo.carmona.org/en/

We stayed at Hospes Palacio de Bailio and easily walked to all the main sites in Cordoba. We only stayed one night - I wish we could have stayed at least three. The breakfast was fresh, beautiful, and delicious. And as I recall, the floor in the breakfast room was interesting, too.
We did take a taxi from the train station to the hotel, and they arranged a taxi to take us back to the train station.
Definitely recommend Hospes Palacio de Bailio.

ekscrunchy,
Also the Palacio del Bailío is a Virtuoso selection. I remember that you've used Virtuoso hotels in the past.

I can only say that thanks to Maribel's excellent advice we will be staying at Hospes Palacio de Bailio for three nights at the end of Nov-start of December. I am happy to report back after we return. But I am VERY excited to stay there. I read pages of reviews and room tips on Booking.com as well. The staff have been lovely in my bit of correspondence with them regarding room type (as privacy and esp quiet are important to us--DH is a light sleeper) and a specific request (to have a kettle in our room, in addition to the Nespresso machine that is in every room).

Feeling jealous!!

ekscunchy,
Yesterday at the EU leaders' summit in Granada, the 2-Michelin starred Paco Morales was in charge of the gala dinner, for the European leaders and Zelenski, held at the Parador de San Francisco in the Alhambra.

These are the chef's own suggestions for dining in Córdoba
https://elpais.com/gastronomia/2023-...o-morales.html

Thanks to all! Maribel you are my star!

Will definitely book at the Hospes. Will return with more questions once I settled the dates.....the Cordoba part will likely be the first stop, so about 1 March arrival, or close to that....

Currently in your prized Vejer area now. Left Cordoba about 12 days ago. Just a suggestion, but if you cross over the Roman bridge away from the old part of town you will find several quality restaurants without the tourists and the overpriced tourist menus. Just solid neighborhood restaurants full of locals.

mike1728, do you have any specific recommendations in that area? based on one of your prior posts, we've reserved an apartment on *that* side of the bridge, so it would be lovely to have a dinner or late lunch in the neighborhood!

Yes,
highly recommend Sala Flamenca Ana Rodriguez (Calle Acera San Julian) read the reviews and check out the photos on Google Maps. Busy, popular place of locals, loud, but great atmosphere, and a wonderful menu. But our favorite establishment in which we ate three times was Bar Seneca (Calle Algazel). Again, check out the reviews and photos on GMaps. In a small neighborhood it’s a no frills loud, busy restaurant. But it’s a great atmosphere, the employees are very friendly and the food is delicious with very reasonable prices. Both restaurants are about a 10 min walk from the Roman Bridge on the Torre de la Calahora side of the bridge. For your apartment needs check out Deza supermarket (Carre. de Castro). Great medium sized market with fresh foods and a nice bakery and butcher.
Coffee every morning was at Cafe LLENKA. Very nice family run establishment for your Cafe con leche and pane with tomato and olive oil.

Thanks mike1728,
And Bar Seneca is even Repsol Guide recommended, with a "solete". It's been in the same family for 3 generations. Closed Wednesday.

Thanks, Mike. Where are you near Vejer? Any great meals around there? Where are you staying if you don't mind saying..?

I think mike's in Zahara de los Atunes, right, mike? Where Antonio is located out towards Atlanterra? We'd love to know the places you like in central Zahara!

Yes! Please.

Maribel do you know when Antonio re-opens in the spring, by any chance? I have a date in mid-March marked on my calendar for 2024; no. idea where I came across the information so far in advance (I must have written it months ago!) but I certainly hope they will be open for most of my time there...I have booked 8-21 March.

I checked our emails back and forth (I have an eskcunchy file. :) ), and I believe they told you they would open on March 15, 2024, although that could change. Seems like you'll be able to dine there during your stay!

"Restaurante Antonio tiene prevista su apertura en 2024 el 15 de Marzo, aunque es una fecha que podría variar."

Maribel is correct. We are in Zahara de los Atunes but sadly leave tomorrow after 11 wonderful days of pure sunshine, temps in the low 80’s with a gentle breeze. Ocean water is like swimming in a lake it’s so warm. Crowds are thin this type of year so the village is fairly quiet and there are long stretches of the beach with hardly a soul in sight. Although the Retinto Festival is October 11-15 so the village will be jam packed as most of the restaurants compete for the best Retinto based dish/tapas award. Eks, this a must for a “foodie”. As for the restaurants, I believe the majority of them are super quality especially those (95%) that are fish based. Spaniards drive for hours to enjoy the tuna based dishes. I say I believe, because we don’t eat seafood (I know crazy with the freshest seafood in Zahara). We enjoy Retinto based tapa and so we drive over to Barbate, (10 min drive) for smaller tapa portions. The restaurants in Zahara tend to be more full plates. Our apartment which is purely magical has one the best terraces in Zahara to view the beach and so we buy at the local butcher/markets for our food needs and eat Al fresco from our deck. On a clear day we view all of Barbate, Vejer, the Trafalger Lighthouse and Morocco, not to mention 6 miles of the incredible beach. And the sunsets here are legendary and again people travel here from other villages just to hang on the beach and watch the sunset. The apartment is on the VRBO sight with the title “Enjoy stunning sea views from this gorgeous sea front apartment”.

mike,
You're so lucky with the weather. From my perch it's still hot as Hades. I read about the Retinto festival going on soon and wish I were there. You've found your paradise!
And what a cute ocean front apartment, a great find!

Speaking of Retinta cows, have you seen them slowly meandering around Bolona? Here's a funny picture of one commandeering a bather's sunbrella on Bolonia Beach.

https://www.diariodesevilla.es/masco...588641830.html

WOW! I had NO IDEA that sea water would be warm this late in the year! Your trip, Mike, sounds like a dream for me! Could I ask you how you found the apartment and if you would post the link? I'm not sure I've ever seen the actual town of Zahara..I only know the road (A314) leading from the outskirts of Vejer down to ANTONIO. I've seen a lot of condos near Antonio, but not an actual town, unless I'm not remembering right..

I'm sure you're doing just fine with the non-fish tables! I may take my partner next time (not this March) and so will be accommodating a fish-shunner as well. Or at least a shunner of "anything with shells!"

Maribel, again, you are amazing!

I had the retina once, at LA CASTILLERIA. I'm not a beef connoisseur and I thought its was good but honestly, could not distinguish it from a lot of other beef. Is it usually cut thinner than the chuletas of the Basque regions? THOSE were out of this world and had lots of char. I'm salivating just thinking of that meat.

The retinal I had did not have char; it was too thin to get that...I will have to do some reading!!

mike,
I believe this is your VRBO rental, correct? I bookmarked it for a future stay!

https://www.vrbo.com/988787a?dateles...rtyId=33954639

My only comment about the apartment is: "Spectacular!"

I could eat every meal at ANTONIO, but then, I like seafood and fish.....that beach is a dream!! Good for you..enjoy!!

Yes,
that is my slice of heaven. Every September/October for the last 12 years. The apartment is the best I have ever stayed at in over 200 European rentals. Eks, Antonio’s Restaurant is located near the Atlanterra neighborhood that Maribel referenced, which is about a kilometer from Zahara’s old town or village area where I stay and where the majority of the restaurants, cafes, shops, markets are located. Atlanterra consists of numerous attractive rentals but the buildings are large 4 story complexes. Beautiful beaches but not quaint like Zahara village. In Zahara village you could eat fresh seafood at a different quality for days on end.

Mike, I am going to thank you in advance for giving me a great idea for next year!!!!
Maybe I can even drag the partner there in early June!

Maribel, Mike, etc:

Just sent request for 5 nights in Cordoba at the Hospes..might trim that down to four nights..remember this is my first overnight after flying from USA so the first night will be pretty shot except maybe for a dinner at the traditional place close to the hotel.....now I've also neglected to write that one down..maybe Taverna del Almodovar?. Casa el Pisto? Looks like arrival date is a Sunday which will limit dinners.....maybe just have lunch and call it a day..lots of time to think about this..

Looked at NOOR..although I do not generally favor tasting menus, for one thing they take so long and there is just too much food....I remember my dear Dad always sayi8ng that "your eyes are bigger than your stomach!!" Well come things never change..so much food to sample and so little space for it all.....

But might take a chance on tNoor due to emphasis on Arab-Andalus dishes..., as well as his Bar de Paco Morales.
Surely hotel will help with those places I can't book online, or I can just phone...

Just curious: Is Morales a name common Cordoba? Can you tell by one's surname which region they originated from?

(I did learn that "S" is pronounced different ways depending on which part of Andalucia one orientates from..can you imagine that in Vejer the "S" ir pronounced differently from the "S" in Sevilla?? Or at least that is what I thought I learned from my dear Jessica at my hotel near Vejer....."Serpent is th-erpeinte". Or am I confused, as usual?? These are things that fascinate me!!



Two questions for Maribel (in addition the restaurants queries above and I apologize for not having filed these restaurants away..now dealing with new laptop and having some "growing pains..or maybe the laptop is the one with the pains!!) and anyone else:


Maribel, I think you mentioned a new place near Vejer but try as I might, could not find the mention, which was in last few months....not Venta Pinto. As you know, I prefer not to drive INTO Vejer to dine but will do so if you highly recommend! Right now I have my usual faves.....Antonio, La Castilleria, El Campero, and my hotel has really nice food as well (if chef is the same as last year) so I tend to have lunches out and a small dinner. But you liked a newer place, or new to me....(??)

SO..is there a new place I should know about on the flats near Vejer? Certainly will now have a meal at Venta Pinto, which as I mentioned, I stopped only to muse the food (and wine!!) section in the front area..bought some tinned atun in Manteca which I've not yet sampled, and that bizcocho which I thought wonderful..like an American pound cake to the 100th power!! It was like a bright yellow and it lasted such a long time after I got to Madrid, and then back to NYC, where I first opened it and it was scrumptious!!!!!!

Next question and please forgive if I asked this recently..when should I begin looking for trains from Atocha to Cordoba, for first week March..more or less?

Do not have my flights from Miami to Madrid booked but will do so in another month or so....understand I need to leave three hours to get from Barajas to Atocha.....since I always have heavy backpack, etc...I probably will take taxi....I think I will arrive MAD on a Sunday....that allows me 5 days in Cordoba before moving on to collect car at airport in Jerez and drive to Vejer. ( It is extremely sad for me that Matteo has been adopted by a young nephew.....I do wish I had snapped a photo of my ursine companion who I adopted at the marvelous, fantastic HOTEL PALACIO MARIA LUISA in Jerez, which I learned about only throgh Maribel, our leader here!!! Assure all: There was a rigorous interview process before he was handed over to my care and he is doing very well up in chilly New England, as we speak!!)

ekscrunchy,
Sunday night dinner---La Taberna del Almodovar (Repsol recommended) is closed on Sunday nights, open for Sunday lunch only. So you could hit it for a late lunch and have tapas or room service at the Hospes for dinner. Casa el Pisto is closed on Sundays.

If you decide on NOOR let the hotel call for you, as they will have some "enchufe" (pull), surely on getting the best table. Clients of the Hospes will surely ask the concierge staff to make a reservation at NOOR for them, the city's most famous/gastronomic restaurant.
Morales is not a last name especially common to Córdoba. (Hijo de Moral)

Cordoba pronunciation is actually difficult for me, as many pronounce the "s" as a "z".

New place in Vejer: El Muro
https://www.lavozdigital.es/gurme/ca...6_noticia.html
https://elmurorestaurante.es

Iconic place next to La Castillería in Santa Lucía that you MUST try for lunch for their acclaimed huevos rotos that José Andrés absolutely loves and his daughter says in the Andalucian episode of José Andrés & Family Go to Spain, "this is my favorite meal of all time"------ VENTA EL TORO---he actually goes there for broken eggs and ham as an appetizer BEFORE his meal at La Castillería!!! (BTW, I loved this episode and especially the scenes from the Feria del Caballo in Jerez).
A gazillion articles have been written about this super well known place. The mother, Maruja Gallardo, who made these broken eggs with potatoes and ham world famous, has, I believe, retired and her son Alberto is now in charge (or maybe she still lurks in the tiny kitchen)
https://gotocadiz.com/vejer/restaura...oro#tab-con-11

Notes from my dining guide about VENTA EL TORO
*Venta El Toro— next door to La Castillería you’ll find José Andrés’ favorite breakfast/snack place that he loves to frequent for owner Maruja Gallardo’s acclaimed fried eggs.She’s been frying up (or rather poaching up) these ecological eggs and locally grown potatoes with extra virgin olive oil in her cast iron skillets for 40 years. When her mother died when she was only 13, she dropped out of school and became the cook for her father and many siblings.

Maruja’s modest kitchen doesn’t have a microwave or a deep fryer. Each day she serves up at least 40 servings of her eggs and potatoes at 6 euros each. Each additional topping costs €1.50. Andrés orders them topped with chorizo, morcilla from Ronda and Iberian ham as an "appetizer" before dinner at La Castillería!

For many, this is a 3-story dish with potatoes on the bottom, topped by a fried egg (but without the crunchy edges-the regulars don’t want them) and finished off with slices of Iberian ham from El Arahal in Sevilla.

She also offers traditional stews such as chickpeas with spinach and the locally famous pork sandwich, lomo en manteca.

This modest spot began in 1945 as a wine dispensary, was discovered by bullfighters, such as Paquirri, (thus the bullfight posters adorning the walls) and a few famous Spanish actors and now has added a small, plant filled outdoor terrace and another outdoor dining spot across the street, next to the brook.
It's open from 9:30 am-9:00 pm daily except Tuesday. Tel: 956 45 14 07
https://www.facebook.com/ventaeltoro/.

But you haven't yet tried VENTA LA DUQUESA on the road to Medina Sidonia, which has a female chef and has an excellent reputation.
Notes from my dining guide-Venta la Duquesa—on the A-396 highway south of town at kilometer 7.7, it has a female chef, Miriam Rodríguez Prieto who trained with the Roca brothers and as a pastry chef at the prestigious Hofmann cooking school in Barcelona. Vegetables come from the restaurant’s own garden, and the beef served is local retinto from La Janda. During the fall/winter, game dishes, such as creamy rice with rabbit or partridge (perdiz de monte), venison and wild mushrooms are featured. Desserts are outstanding, such as the rice pudding with lemon cream. Despite its moniker as a venta (=rustic roadside watering hole), this is a sophisticated dining venue. Repsol guide recommended. Menu in English. Open for lunch and dinner but closed Tuesdays. One can book online 24 hours in advance. It won the jury’s vote for best venta this year from Premios Gurmé Cádiz.www.ventaladuquesa.com.

Trains from Madrid Puerta de Atocha to Córdoba----If you want to try the snazzy new IRYO (Italian frecciarossa trains), they are on sale now for March (I just checked March 1)
www.iryo.eu
If you want to go on Renfe's AVE (since 1992), then they're also loaded on www.renfe.com because Renfe's AVE competes with IRYO now on that route, so they load their fares when IRYO loads its fares. (again, I checked March 1)

Sorry that el osito Mateo went to New England but I hope he's happy there and much loved.

Maribel you are my Numero Uno (Una??)

Ok..looks like my days in Cordoba include that one day when places are closed. Will I have the same problem Monday nights, too?

Enchufe!! I love it!!!!!

I've requested the stay at the HOSPES in Cordoba.. they have some kind of "deal" where they give a tapas spread to Virtuoso bookers....but very difficult to understand what that entails..I always like to book directly...anyway will keep you posted and thank you for the train info..that helps A LOT!!!!!!

I must have driven past VENTA PINTO several times en route to LA CASTILLERIA.....I think it is right after the turn off the larger road....not sure how I could have missed it but will be there this March, for certain!!

And VENTA LA DUQUESA..for certain! That is an easy road for me....I took it to the airport (Jerez) and it is fun to drive.....


I'm sorry for all this rambling....oh, Matteo!!! I almost want to book a night at the hotel in Jerez to see his brothers!!!!
Now THAT is a hotel!!!!!

Ah, yes, you know very well the dilemma of Sun-Mon restaurant closings. Both Paco Morales places are closed MON, as are Terra Olea, La Ermita de la Candelaria, Tellus, ReComiendo, Celia Jiménez, Choco by Kisko García, Taberna Los Berengueles

Córdoba restaurants OPEN on MON (you do have plenty of options)

La Cuchara de San Lorenzo, lunch only until 4 pm
*Terra Olea, lunch only but until 6---bookable on The Fork with a 9.8 rating
Almudaina---bookable on The Fork with a 9.5 rating
Taberna Salinas Casa el Piso, lunch & dinner
Taberna de Almodóvar, lunch & dinner

In the Judería or historic quarter
Casa Pepe de la Judería, lunch & dinner
El Churrasco, lunch & dinner
El Caballo Rojo (reinvented says the female chef), lunch & dinner
Garum 2.1 Bistronomic, lunch & dinner
Bodegas Campos, lunch & dinner
Regadera, lunch & dinner (daily, as it's very popular with tourists due to its location on the river walk)

CUCHARA DE SAN LORENZO..Manitas deshuesadas con foie y Jamon Iberico... Coca de Foie!!!


What else do I need to begin my stay on a Sunday in Cordoba??????? Then I can pass out in my hotel and sleep very well, I think!!!

I km from hotel.....!!!

Good idea?

TERRA OLEA looks great for Monday...and with Virtuoso I get some kind of "tapas spread," (not their words...)at the Hospes.......I never end up using all those extra Virtuoso perks but I must say that the Virtuoso person is much quicker to respond than the actual hotel has been.....hotel itself has needed two e-mails over two days and then got the dates all wrong..but who cares..sure it is fabulous and looking forward.....

Maribel, you are a dream, and my Mexican friend had a laugh today when I mentioned "enchufe.." He first was surprised and then had a difficult time trying to translate this into English ("pull??") but we get the point! How can I ever thank you? You know "....mi casa.." and all that, in NYC....

For enchufe, a better translation would be "connections", as in "who you know...."

On a Sunday, things are fairly quiet in Córdoba. I would just grab a map from the concierge desk and take a long stroll, having the desk staff guide you to interesting points close to the hotel, such as the Roman temple and the ground floor rooms and 12 interconnecting patios at the lovely Palacio de Viana, which is not a far walk at all.

The Palacio de Viana on Sundays is open from 10 am-3 pm. No need for advance reservation. Just purchase your downstairs, patios ticket, when you arrive.https://www.palaciodeviana.com

GREAT!!

This week will book train from Atocha to HOSPES for first destination of the trip..5 nights. I know many would say the is too long in Cordoba, but the first night I will be knocked out from overnight flight and train...etc... I just like wandering around and would be good weather, for me. Can always cut short by one day before departing for airport Jerez....

Amazing (to me, at least) how flight prices vary depending on time of year, or time of month.. (I guess I'm late to this topic and always nervous that might have to cancel for health reasons so tend to book late, and pay the horrific prices!!). Will not do the this time and will try for some kind of refundable ticket...

Just want to thank all, yet again, for making this so easy for me to organize an itinerary to what has become one of my favorite areas on earth for travel!!

Congrats to Real Madrid fans. Mbappe?

Two great restaurants in the Vejer/ La Muela area (near Santa Lucia) are Venta Los Tres Carrilles and if you get a taste for good Italian (hard to find in this area) try Pizzeria/Resturante II Forno (Italian owned) the restaurants are 1 minute away by car on a winding road above the main road the N-340. Both were recommended by locals from Zahara de los Atunes and both are superb. Far from any tourist area, the restaurants are packed with the locals. If you venture into Barbate I highly recommend El Retinto Tapas. Wonderful restaurant with an extensive tapa menu and very reasonably priced.

Eks,
On your several trips to La Castillería in the tiny (200 inhabitants) hamlet of Santa Lucía below Vejer, you would have passed VENTA EL TORO each time. It´s on the right hand side, coming into the hamlet, just before making the left turn to reach La Castillería, literally next door
It´s a little whitewashed house with a tables on the greenery-filled outdoor terrace, and a few tables below this terrace, and across the street there are several tables in another covered wooden terrace sitting above the brook. The restaurant terrace is where José Andrés ate with his 3 daughters in the Andalucía episode of JA & Family in Spain.

Everyone comes here for their famous fried eggs & potatoes topped with Iberian ham (or morcilla or chorizo or....all 3, like José Andrés orders!). It's totally unpretentious but nonetheless very famous in the area. .

Here´s the video by gastro critic Fernando Hidrobo

Maribel, of course I did pass the VENTA El TORO...and next time will do more than just drive past!

CASA PEPE DE LA JUDERIA in cordoba seems to be open Sundays and Mondays (you may have mentioned this already). Tried to make a trial booking and they seemed to have no tables for the near future for one or two, but I am sure I can work this out. Question is, should I be considering it? The location seems very touristic but the Repsol seems to like it.......


I booked the HOSPES with Virtuoso! Now on the the flights!

I have mixed feelings about Casa Pepe de la Judería. It was founded in 1920 and is a classic.

I've been several times, most recently before meeting you, alone, just for tapas at the marble bar, where the bar server ignored me for a long time while chatting with his local friends.

I've also eaten in the lovely upstairs dining room(s) with American friends on a day trip to the city. I chose it because I had a limited time to show them the sights, couldn't venture too far afield, and I wanted them to try typical Córdoba dishes that the restaurant does quite well.
We sat upstairs in atmospheric surroundings, with good service. They enjoyed it.

Gurmé Córdoba declares its salmorejo one of the best in the city, (along with Taberna Salinas, San Miguel Casa El Pisto, Garum 2.1, Bodegas Campos & La Salmoreteca in the food court, Mercado de la Victoria)

Yes, it's right in the middle of the tourist zone.

In an older Gastroactitud article, chef Paco Morales said about it, "sit on the roof terrace dining room (la azotea), come here for flamenquín, rabo de toro, berenjenas con miel, croquetas de cocido, queso de Sierra de Zuheros, jamón del Valle de los Pedroches (same quality as the Iberian ham from Huelva, Salamanca--Pedroches has its own D.O.P)

https://www.gastroactitud.com/pista/...es-en-cordoba/

But in a more recent El País article about where Michelin starred chefs eat (the Gastro section does this every Mon.), he mentioned these current favorites---

https://elpais.com/gastronomia/2023-...-morales.html-

You might find this Decanter article interesting, written by my friend Shawn Hennessey of Azahar Tapas
https://www.decanter.com/wine/cordob...lovers-488926/

My BFF, a luxury travel concierge, sends her high end clients, when on a day trip to Córdoba, to Almudaina, at the Plaza Campo de los Mártires, very near the Alcázar but outside of the "Medina". Open daily. I haven't been.

You have lots of choices here.

So exciting! Will certainly have at least one traditonal meal..

For that traditional meal, do you have a preference between Casa el Pisto or Taberna Salinas? The eggplant and the salmorejo would be essential for me at either, and anything else you can recommend and I can "fit" in!!! And now I have ALMUDAINA on the list; I may have to spend 2 weeks in Cordoba alone!

There is a restaurant. LA VARA, in Brooklyn (you probably know all this already) that is Andaluz influenced (male chef owner is Basque, I believe) and it was there that I had one of the best eggplant dishes, with honey, that I'd ever eaten, so quite excited to try again, closer to their kitchens of origin, or at least closer than Brooklyn..

Hi eks,
I thought I had answered your question but now can't find my answer.

They are both quite similar.
I prefer Taberna San Miguel Casa el Piso simply because it's outside of the Judería and gets one to see another, very different side of Córdoba, closer to the main square, Plaza de las Tendillas. It´s on a cute square, Plaza de San Miguel, the wait staff was friendly, they advised me well as to what to order and what to drink (I wanted a dry rather than sweet Montila Moriles wine), and it has a charming interior courtyard dining room lined with photos and that typical Cordoban charm.
Typical dishes---salmorejo, flamenquín, berenjenas con miel, Pisto, rabo de toro, etc. And before the main courses, they serve regañas, to which we've become addicted (from my 5-week trip I brought back 20 bags because we couldn't get them in Seattle---now we buy them every day here).
For dessert, tocino de cielo.