Hi eks,
I was struck by today's review of NOOR (number 9) on the HO thread "Spain (Basque Country and Andalucía Restaurant Recommendation", in case you hadn't seen it. I'm not sure I agree with some of the 11 assessments, but to each his/her own. It did make interesting reading. I always appreciate when posters take the time to leave feedback about their dining experiences on HO.

Maribel, I had missed it and just now read his/her post. I don't know most of those restaurants but the reviews make me think that this poster is a lot more critical than I would be! Certainly a pretty seasoned visitor to Spain and yes, unlike a few others, it is great to hear the comments on all the places sampled..I wish everyone would do that!

I've got the date that Noor will take booking marked down on my calendar already...looks as if it is early next month. It's not a huge must for me, but I would like to go. It looks as if I have only 2 days in Cordoba when Noor is open but I don't think booking so far out will be a problem. As usual, I am booking restaurants before buying the plane tickets! Must do that this week.

Yes, eks, I thought the reviewer (to whom I've recommended several Madrid dining spots in the past) was much more critical that I would be, and interesting enough, more critical of a few places (Noor, Bardal) than the professional Spain food critics that I follow. But dining experiences are so very subjective, and I do appreciate those folks who take the time to leave their honest feedback.

A fairly recent review of Noor (by Julia Pérez Lozano, the wife of El País gastro critic, Capel)
https://www.gastroactitud.com/restau...urant-cordoba/

and from El Mundo
https://www.elmundo.es/metropoli/gas...4068b45cb.html

Maribona's reviews of a few Cordoba places
https://www.laverdad.es/gastronomia/...2716-ntvo.html

Noor has only 7 tables, so book as far out as you can.
Morales began Noor 8 years ago after a rigorous study of the cuisine of Al Andalus with the help of chef-historian Rosa Tovar. He's now into his 8th year of study and exploration.

At the beginning his goal was to replicate the cuisine of the 10th century, the Caliphate of Aberramán III, with only ingredients that existed back then.
Tomatoes and potatoes had not yet arrived from the New World, so he copied flavors, products and customs only that existed then.
In year 2 he based his menu on the Almoravide and Almohad empires of the XII and XIII centuries.
Year 3 was dedicated to the Nazari period, 14th century.
In year 4, 15th century, he incorporated ingredients that had arrived from the New World.

Morales´ 3 menus this season, the Mudéjar, Morisco and Al-Yazira are inspired by dishes that reflected the splendor of the Golden Age, 17th century.
So every season it´s a different dining experience.

To begin the meal, just as in the times of the Caliphate, diners wash their hands in silence in a copper aguamanil. Servers present the dishes in synchrony, and the maitre is said to be quite formal in his approach. All this may appear to some excessively robotic or somber.
The wine list is strong on Andalusian wines and sherries.

Here's a current Forbes review in English. The reviewer calls Morales a gastro-archaeologist.
https://www.forbes.com/sites/annabel...h=7a04dfef27b7

Booked plane tickets on Iberia. Only RT Miami to Madrid. Adding Jerez seemed way out of line price wise so will do that later....would you believe me if I told you that adding the one leg--business--from Jerez to Madrid, added more than 3000euro to the ticket price? And NO, I was not tipsy or tired when I read this..!!

So soon I will just get a one way from Jerez to Madrid..no connection needed so no pressure. Already booked my "new home" in Madrid (if only!!)

Interesting how one can relax after making these simple bookings.....mostly set and done now......

I am still dreaming about Mike's Zahara apartment......take the partner in the fall???

Hi eks,
Holy cow!
So glad you booked your new home in Almagro, such a beautiful neighborhood!
Yes, I think you should take partner to Zahara in the fall and stay at mike´s place....

I just read in the Córdoba paper that chef Del Mar, Angel León of 3 Micheli -starred Aponiente in El Puerto was in the city and went to dine at La Cuchara de San Lorenzo, the Bib Gourmand. I´d definitely put it on your list. He and his wife had patatas bravas, ensaladilla, flamenquín and salmorejo, among other things.

He also went to dine at another Bib Gourmand, El Envero, where he ordered mazamorra de anacardos, anchoas con polvo de tomate y mantequilla de Calaveruela, torreznos de Soria fritos con un toque de lima and fried loritos (raor fish).

And....they were staying at the Hospes Palacio del Bailío.

Noting these Cordoba restaurants, Maribel—many thanks.

And how exciting, Eks, that you’ve made some bookings. The trip becomes very real at that point.

parte 2 of "where the chefs eat"
Pepe Rodríguez, chef of El Bohío and judge of Master Chef was also in town, and he chose Casa Pepe de la Judería.
What he and companions ordered and shared: gazpacho cremoso de tomate y verduras asadas, tomate cherry asado con burrata y polvo de tomate, huevos fritos con patatas y jamón ibérico, croquetas cremosas de puchero y jamón, berenjenas con miel de caña, carrillada ibérica estofada and for dessert, coulant de chocolate y helado de avellana. Quite a feast.

Great to know, Maribel-thanks for sharing. What a sumptuous-sounding feast!

You´re going to need to make a second trip.:)

Clearly a second trip will be necessary!

Eks,
As you know Fall is a great time of year for Andalusia. We were in Zahara late September till mid October as you know, weather was spectacular crowds were thin and all restaurants were still open. Late October/November a lot of restaurants close up in Zahara. But I guess the weather is still great, just less options for dining. Marie’s apartment (Sunset Apt on Calle El Penon) books early as most guests are folks that return year after year (like me).

Eks,,
As mike says late October/November there will be fewer options in the towns directly on the coast (and in March as well before Easter) and El Campero in Barbate closes all of Nov/Dec. and Antonio is closed now in November, so I wouldn't go too late.

I want to rent Marie's apartment too, maybe for after Easter! Whenever mike and the other regulars that return year after year don't have it booked! When would be a good time, mike? Are you there the second week of October?

Yes Maribel, we will holiday 3 weeks in Andalucia next September and conclude with 10 days or so in Zahara. Looking at the calendar I would say September 29ish to Oct. 8ish. We will do Sanlucar for 5 nights prior to Zahara. Still not sure where to visit before Sanlucar. We always flew into Jerez via Madrid but the short window between flights had us miss the connection on three occasions and that is why we did Cordoba via rail from Madrid this year and then rented a vehicle for the remainder of our trip. Next year I am pondering direct to Madrid then rail to Malaga for a few days and then proceed via auto to Sanlucar and Zahara. I hope you get to Zahara in October.

Thanks mike. I envy your 3 weeks next September and late September to me is the perfect time to be on the Costa de la Luz.
Have you spent time in El Puerto de Santa Maria? It's another relaxing, laid back town in the sherry triangle.

Yes,several trips to El Puerto. Love it. Actually it was our first holiday to the Cadiz area and it was from there we discovered Zahara. Great beaches, ton of restaurants, history (Columbus), (12th Century Castle), very few crowds and as you mentioned Sherry, Sherry, Sherry. It’s laid back has a train station for easy trips to Jerez and Seville and of course the 30 min ferry ride over to Cadiz.

I love that ferry ride!

Just checking in to say we have had a death last night in the family so I will take a short break from Fodor's or a few days or so.......but still reading and very jealous of Mike's trip!!

Nos vemos pronto!

I'm so sorry ekscrunchy! I'll be thinking about you and you know where to find me if you need anything.

We have stayed in Cadiz three times and it was running only on our last stay . It would seem that the ferry cannot cope with any sea swell. Having said that on our return trip it was a bit like a big dipper white knuckle ride!! It is a shame the Cost de Luz coastline is so windy as the beaches are lovely.

I had a lovely trip over to El Puerto on the catamaran, but the return did have sea swells but not as white knuckle as you experienced. The Costa de La Luz is windy! That's why it's a haven for windsurfers, the windsurfing capital of southern Spain. We've experience several trips to the Roman ruins at the beach in Bolonia, once on a beautiful sunny day with no wind and another time with a levante wind so strong that it felt like it was going to sweep us away. And you never can predict when you're gong to experience a poniente or levante wind.

Indeed, we were once on a beach in Conil, lovely day, no wind, packed beach, the aponiente started to blow up and the entire beach cleared within half an hour. It got so bad you could hardly open your eyes and sand got in to every part of your clothes and body!

Sending condolences to you and your family, Eks.

Eks,
Just a few moments ago tonight in Barcelona during the Michelin star gala, Paco Morales' Noor just won its 3rd Michelin star. The phone will be ringing off the hook tomorrow for reservations! :) Although one has to book online with a c.c. guarantee. It will be Andalucía's hottest table.

Thanks, Maribel!! Good for him!

I've been checking the website to see when I can book for my dates..it looks as if table for 1 is easier to book than for two......I only have 2 dinners in Cordoba when they are open!

The 3rd star was actually predicted in the gastro press but with Michelin you can never tell. Lua in Madrid lost its star, as well as the Canarias cuisine restaurant Gofio.
Martín Berasategui now has 13 to his name (in other words, restaurants that he supervises), with 12 in Spain and one in Portugal. His newest is Club Allard in Madrid. We ate there when Diego Guerrero of D'Stage was the chef.

I´ve been checking Noor as well for our dates. It´s bookable now up until Feb. 23 (from Feb. 24-29 tables aren't available). The March calendar isn't up yet.

My dates in Cordoba when Noor is open are 5 and 6 March; I will be checking obsessively but if you happen to catch when they open those dates, keep me posted..I have no trouble waking up any time to book a table!!!

I liked LUA a lot when we ate there but that was a long time ago..any idea why they would lost their star? I think that was the trip when we went to Granada so at least 10 years ago, I think! That was the trip I had a table at Club Allard but got a little sick (the over-indulging type of sick!!) so we missed it....! In any case I prefer to go by Repsol than Michelin in Spain, for certain! But I did develop a strong liking for those crackers names something like TIM (??)

Now, Canarias..those islands have intrigued me but I fear that it is too much like Costa del Sol..built up with high rises and charter flights coming in from Northern Europe..am I all off base here???/

Hi ekscrunchy,
No one knows why Lua lost its star. Every restaurant that Berasategui supervises seems to get a star, except the one, Etxeko, that he opened in the Bless Hotel, which he promptly closed. He has the MB restaurant in the Ritz Carlton in Tenerife Abama, which is also a Virtuoso hotel.

We too prefer to go to the ones with a Repsol sun. They usually don't disappoint.

I've only been to Canarias once, Gran Canaria, and have felt no need to return.

But...after the "José Andrés and family go to Spain" episode on Lanzarote, I'm intrigued by the volcanic landscape and volcanic wines of La Geria and looking at it for next November 23-24 for the Saborea (Tasting) Lanzarote Enogastronómico Festival held in Teguise (not Costa de Teguise, where the large resort-like hotels and family hotels are located). The focus for us would be wine and gastronomy and cultural touring, not beach sitting. I would like to snorkel though. I´m looking at the Hotel Boutique Palacio Pico in Teguise or the Casa de los Naranjos or the César Lanzarote.

We might add Tenerife to the mix. We have friends who are headed to the Botánico there soon.

eks,
As I know you´ll want to go to MERCADO DE LA PAZ in Madrid for shopping and sampling the Casa Dani tortilla, if you don't get your full almadraba tuna experience in Vejer/Barbate/Zahara and are hankering for more.....

Petaca Chico, last Thursday, inaugurated its new ALMADRABA EXPERIENCE in the market, with a sushiman serving jamón de mar included. I'm going tomorrow to check it out. They had a store around the corner on Ayala, closed it and moved into the market last week.
Petaca Chico is the other brand, in addition to Herpac and Gadira that commercialize the almadraba-caught blue fin tuna.

Maribel:

Good news: NOOR is booked for 6 March!

Now, I'm working on the Cordoba eateries and as usual, have too many for the short amount of time (5 nights).
You've commented on most of these, but for traditional, and open on Sundays until 4pm, which allows me to have a late lunch (11:45am train should arrive in Cordoba with plenty of time to check in to the Hospes and go over to eat lunch, no??) which of these, or other:

CUCHARA DE SAN LORENZO
or
TABERNA DEL ALMODOVAR



And of those first two, I think CUCHARA DE SAN LORENZO looks as ifs it has a longer menu with more dishes that appeal.....

I can't thank you enough for all of your patience with this!!!

TABERNA DEL ALMODOVAR would be your traditional choice. CUCHARA DE SAN LORENZO is more creative.

Andrew Ferren has a 36 Hours in Córdoba article in this Sunday's NY Times travel section.

One more question, for something less traditional, but in the Jewish quarter: GARUM 2.1???

Yes, studenttobe enjoyed her recent meal there. And it sits outside of the “souk” of souvenir shops and offers creative dishes in a casual atmosphere. I enjoyed it.

Here's the link to the Andrew Ferren article in the Sunday NYTimes about Córdoba. I've gifted it.
https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/...smid=url-share

Dining in Vejer,
I know you´re returning to La Castillería during your stay (who wouldn't!!).
I just read today that Venta el Toro, also in tiny Santa Lucía, which I know you've passed right by on the way to La Castillería, won the Gurmé Cádiz award for "best venta of 2023".
While I wouldn't (couldn't) attempt what José Andrés does while vacationing in Zahara----go to Venta el Toro for an "aperitivo" of huevos fritos con patatas y jamón , then to La Castillería for grilled beef--- it might be fun to pop in there at another time to sample this iconic dish in María Luisa Gallardo's cute little spot.

I couldn't dine at those 2 places back-to-back! La Siesta offers breakfasts that I love (I think others might not feel the same; there is no buffet, but they prepare just about any breakfast-y dishes: Eggs, plate of jamon y quesos, sweet (and savory) breads..you will get the idea. But despite how good the breakfasts are, I will plan on skipping them one morning and driving to Venta el Toro in late morning, which will be the first time for me, as you know. I'm curious, because I can't imagine how a simple egg dish could excite so many diners (!!). But I know it will be great, and I bet I will love the atmosphere as well.

There are 2 places that new to me that I'd like try (you undoubtedly know this) : El Muro in Vejer and El Alfrerez, in El Palmar.

So now, with Antonio (want to visit more than once) and El Campero, plus La Castilleria and Venta el Toro......

AND, maybe: Yoko in Barbate (the young man who is/was the boyfriend of a female waitperson at El Campero--this couple carried my (very heavy) basket filled with the latas from Gadira (!) all the way from the restaurant to my car, which was parked near then Barbate market, was a waiter at Yoko. He had the opinion that Yoko was better than El Campero. Although it's ...hard to imagine anyplace "better" than El Campero, I might want to go there as well.

So....I already have my eating list overflowing with choices!!!!!!!!! Happy dilemma, though!!


.
PS...I just scanned the menu at EL ALFAREz. Oh, my goodness...there are SO many great-sounding choices!!! My dad used to tell me that "my eyes were bigger than my stomach" because I would always order more than I could finish. I predict that that will be the case here, and most anyplace else!! Its just overwhelming to contemplate, looking at this menu:
Maribel, have you heard first hand about this place, or tried it??



https://www.restauranteelalferez.com/sala.pdf

eks,
I have no first hand knowledge about El Alférez, as I put it on my list when I saw at the Repsol Gala this year that the team had won its first "sol". So, I'll be eager to hear your report!

I imagine you've seen the José Andrés & Family Go to Spain episode at the Feria del Caballo in Jerez. The oldest daughter, Carlota, declared that Venta el Toro was her very favorite restaurant! You'll have to save some room for those famous fried eggs, potatoes and ham! They're doing work on the venta right now, so I don't know when they're planning to reopen, but I'm sure that your inn can find out.

Hi eks,
I just wanted to report that on Monday at Madrid Fusión I got a sneak preview of this season's 17th century menu of NOOR.
Paco Morales and his entire team, including his second in command, his partner, Argentinian Paola Gualdini, his sommelier, his front of the house and all the servers did a presentation of the menu. It all looked very inviting, including the wine pairings.
I tried to book for us, but missed the cut off date and the only availability was for March 19 and we arrive March 21. Oh well, next year, for the 18th century menu! I did get his recipe for the steamed hake with. pumpkin and vanilla. Hope you enjoy it!

Córdoba this year had a big presence at Madrid Fusion with the presentation by Paco Morales, plus talks by chef Periko Ortega of ReComiendo, Celia Jiménez of her eponymous restaurant, Juan Luis Santiago of Garum 2.1, Antonio Jiménez of Taberna Montillana and Carlos Fernández of Karán Bistró. There´s a lot going on gastronomically this year in Córdoba. And presentations of olive oils, Pedroches jamón ibérico and wines from Montilla-Moriles.

Maribel, I have my restaurants sorted for 5 nights in Cordoba, save for Monday. I've written FIVE e-mails to the Hospes to ask them to book El Pisto for me on Monday and I must say that, apart from the first reply, when they told me they could not contact the restaurant as it was closed for vacation, I've not had any response from the hotel despite four e-mails in the past week.. I am not going to write again, and just phone the restaurant myself when I arrive. But I have to say that this is disappointing, and I do not consider myself to be a fussy, critical guest.

I see varying horarios for El Pisto..some say open Monday lunch and dinner (I would prefer dinner) and some say Mondays--lunch only. Their website says lunch only on Mondays so I think that is what I should believe.

On a brighter note, I received an e-mail from NOOR. There is a choice of three tasting menus, as you know.

I know that my appetite cannot handle the MORISCO menu, but on the good food site, HO, a respected member advised me that I would miss out by taking there shortest of the three tasting menus. I will probably go with his advice, even though some of the plates will depart the table half full.

In any case, I thought their e-mail might be of interest to anyone considering this Cordoba restaurant:
<<<<<<Good afternoon, Mrs. "ekscrunchy"

We contact you regarding your reservation with us for next 06/03/2024 at 20:30 h for 1 pax.

Attached, we send you our menus so you can see them and tell us which one you want to take. We recommend choosing them in advance to avoid waste, as well as so that in the event of any diner having an allergy, intolerance or food restriction, or a specific ingredient that they do not want or cannot take, have time to tell them fellow chefs to make the appropriate changes.

Note: The menus are for a full table, so all diners have to take the same menu.

IMPORTANT: Children under 8 years of age are not allowed in the establishment.

Cancellation policies: if you cannot attend your reservation, you must notify us 48 hours before the date of your reservation, otherwise €120 will be charged for each diner.

We are waiting for confirmation of your reservation.

Thank you

Best regards>>>>

And then they detail the three possibilities: The MUDEJAR ice the shortest menu, and the middle is the MORISCO.



https://noorrestaurant.es/en/

I received the very same email from Noor when I mistakenly booked for March 19 and then had to cancel, as we can't get to Córdoba until March 21, and they were already full for the 21st. Oh well, it will have to wait until next season, when the menu will be in the 18th century. I remember that TJ told you to take the 2nd tasting menu. FOMO. He's always right. He told me to go to Cávala in Málaga and that was a great suggestion.

Incidentally, Paco Morales has just opened a new restaurant in Dubai, called Qabú.

Well, Taberna San Miguel, Casa el Pisto is closed on Mondays, say Google, the restaurant's Facebook page and Repsol. So is La Casa de Manolete Bistró as is Los Berengueles as is el Bar de Paco Morales (the Monday curse).

However, Taberna Almodóvar IS open on Mondays as is La Cuchara de San Lorenzo (where we have a dinner reservation). Both are Michelin Bib Gourmands. Also Taberna Montillana, whose chef did a presentation at Madrid Fusión.