Berlin lovers.... HELP please
 

It is my third day in Berlin ( Monday)... and I am not loving the city.. What am I missing????

So far I have seen; : Kaiser Kirche, Branderburg gate, Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, Reichstag ( did no go to the top - huge line up),Jewish Museum, Berlinishe Galerie, , Alexanderplatz ( and around - to some Soviet looking residential area) part of Prenzlauer Berg, Berlin Wall Memorial site( Brnaur Strasse, part of the Wall is still there), Checkpoint Charlie ( did not see the Museum), New Synagogue, Hackesche Hofe
I have plans to see Kulturforum( some of it..), Hamburger Bahnhof Museum, Helmut Newton Museum , , a bit of Pergamon ..New National Galery
/at least parts of it/

I have seen a number of museums and galleries in Madrid, Amsterdam, Paris, London.....
... what is it that YOU love about THIS city??
(sorry for the errors..)

Hi danon,

I have to say, I don't LOVE Berlin either, but I am dying to go back for a 2nd visit.

To me, it's too big of a city, too sterile at places (East Berlin), too commercial at others (West Berlin).

BUT, I love art and museums, and can never get enough of those in Berlin.

Apart from the museums, it's really the history that grabs me. So much has happened there, so much heartache and tears, that calls for my return.

So, with my upcoming visit, I don't expect me or my husband to love the city. Rather, we are going for the experience, the history, and the museums.

Well, first of all I DID go into the Checkpoint Charlie museum..why didn't YOU?

Have you considered visiting one of the two palaces out in Potsdam?

You know, perhaps if you simply chiiled OUT a little bit and went somewhere like the zoo or even to the KaDeWe and the food hall the place might not seem so bad.

thanks yk - just how I feel.
It is my first visit.
I don't think I will see all I would like to , but the city itself, as I told my husband who stayed home, is no Paris or Barcelona.....

For me, it was the fascination of seeing first-hand a city that had loomed so large in the American imagination and shaped American history, so seeing the Bebelplatz was striking, for instance. I also am a museum hound, although I didn't enjoy all the museums I visited in Berlin, but I certainly rejoiced in being able to visit the Pergamon, and the museum of the Berlin Mauer. The Reichstag dome is that the greatest work of modern civic architecture I've ever encountered, anywhere, and seeing made me reflect upon the importance of other great civic buildings to the people who erected them, and why they did that, and what kind of political stories political architecture tells.

I have specific interests in Bauhaus and German cinema, so that gripped my attention.

Hard to know what you expect from a city - Berlin has everything: art, culture, architecture, history, entertainment, shopping, food, people...

Here some tips:

- Visit the Pergamon Museum. Take time - two or three hours. If you are not impressed by the Ishtar Gate, nobody can help you.

- Go on a nightly stroll along Oranienburger Straße. Have a drink in the Tacheles and in a few of the bars there. Browse the art galleries along the street. Let the magic of the place encompass you.

- Walk Unter den Linden, from Brandenburg Gate to the Dom (Cathedral). You are not impressed by the architecture? What else can impress you?

- Walk across Gendarmenmarkt. Sit down in one of the open-air cafés and have a drink. Enjoy the scenery.

- Take the S-Bahn to Potsdam. Stroll through the park and see the gorgeous Royal palaces there.

- After dinner, go into Marlene Bar in the Intercontinental Hotel or into Harry's Bar in the Grand Hotel Esplanade. Enjoy the live music, sip a cocktail and watch the crowd.

- Go into the KaDeWe on the upper level into the food market. Pick something here and there and relax.

Well, first of all I DID go into the Checkpoint Charlie museum..why didn't YOU?''

because there was a line -up of many..
Bernauer Str. Memorial has all the info. one needs on the Wall ( part of the Wall is still there...)
I have done some shopping, relaxed by the river,and had more beer than ever ..

Well, Paris and Barcelona weren't bombed to smithereens, for one thing. Nor were they divided, crudely, into two cities with competing things to prove, fast. That said, I think much Berlin today is more authentically creatively vibrant than either city -- although that's a fist fight to be sure. But certainly more so than Paris.

If you are going around looking for antique or turn of the century neighborhoods, they largely didn't survive. And it wasn't just the allied bombing or communism. Hitler leveled all sorts of graceful things in Berlin so he could run tanks around with greater ease.

But why sweat it? Airfare out of Berlin is cheap. Trains go lots of places.

traveller,

I think to put someone beyond hope for failing to have a great time with the Istar Gate is not quite fair.

I'm quite predisposed toward such museum displays, but when I was at the Pergamon, the Ishtar Gate was not well displayed, lots of kids being marched through. The museum layout is somewhat in my recollection. It wasn't easy to get a feel for the grandness of the gates -- not to mention some people just aren't comfortable with a lot of the cultural looting that these collections represent.

Traveling is not a test. You cannot flunk it. Danon was curious enough to ask for a second guess on his or her private reactions.

I can't stand Barcelona, Gaudi in particular. Maybe Danon just hears a different drummer than you or me.

BTW, I don't think one has to LOVE a city in order to enjoy his/her visit.

I also don't think danon is saying that she doesn't find Berlin impressive - she only says she doesn't love the city.

I can think of many cities which I enjoyed, and which I would want to go back for a repeat visit, yet I don't necessarily love them (eg, Salzburg, Zurich, Rome... just to name a few).

<i>If you are going around looking for antique or turn of the century neighborhoods, they largely didn't survive.</i>

Not true, although they may have been heavily rebuilt. Prenzlauer Berg has pre-W.W.I buildings, as do other neighborhoods.

It's too late for the OP, but I generally recommend BerlinWalks by Fritzsche & Hewitt to get to know Berlin, including the old neighborhoods.

Thanks for correcting my post.

Maybe you are having a hard time fitting together what you are seeing currently with the history of the city. If you haven't seen the Story of Berlin museum it is great. Very good displays and interactive headset you wear for explanation, sound and music background. http://www.story-of-berlin.de/en/news and here is the description:

"The interactive exhibition THE STORY OF BERLIN enables you to experience the development of the city from its beginnings to today in 23 theme rooms, equipped with up-to-date animation technology and walk through sets. The museum is more than just an exhibition - it is an exciting journey through 800 years of Berlin history. Instead of the mere display of dates and facts about historical personalities, the priority is given to the Berliners and their lifestyle at certain points in history. Part of your visit to the exhibition is a guided tour through an original nuclear bomb shelter underneath the busy street Kurfürstendamm."

I LOVE Berlin, but I was there at Christmas and I think everyone walking around with gluewine :) and the Christmas markets and shopping made the city so festive.

You should go to the Gemaldegallerie to see the wonderful Vermeer "Woman with a Pearl Necklace."

You MUST go up to the dome of the Reichstag. It is absolutely WONDERFUL. Go early in the morning to get a place in line if you have to. GO GO GO!!

Over near the Rathaus and Nikolaikirche (near the Spree) there are lots of cute little shops and cafes. I really liked walking around that area, especially on a Sunday afternoon.

Thin

<i>gluewine</i>

And what is glued with it?

I love Berlin and am looking forward to my next visit. Visit the Guggenheim on Unter der Linden. The Gemaldegallerie that Thin suggested is a wonderful art museum (I love the Bruegel's). Stop across the street and visit the Philharmonie. Take a boat ride on the Spree. Join a walking tour at the Zoo, or rent a bike.

What I love most about Berlin is walking around feeling and breathing in all of the buzz, atmosphere and history of a city that has risen from the ashes.

I love eating a Currywurst in Prenzlauer Berg, a Doner Kebap in Nicolaiviertel, cake and coffee in Presslers, a beer in Pariser Platz, or an ice cream in Kuferstendamm.

Dutch, where's the Currywurst place? We'll be staying in an apt in Prenzlauer Berg.

Take one of Terry Brewer's Berlin walking tours.
http://www.brewersberlintours.com/

Nonetheless, I can totally understand appreciating what a city has to offer, and enjoying what you see and hear, but somehow not loving it, because that is how Paris is for me. (I can't say there is any logic to this at all.)

If you still have time, take a daytrip to Potsdam (I recommend with Brewer's Berlin for that too).

Also, consider one of the Berlin Free Tours.
http://www.newberlintours.com/nbt/

Make sure you are eating and drinking properly. Something as simple as that can affect your enjoyment of a city.

yk - the one I ate at was at a U-Bahn stop. They are all over the place, though. I also ate currywurst at the cafe in the VW showroom building on Unter der Linden. (Movenpick?)

Danon..if it's not too late, visit Potsdam...a 20 minute train ride from Zoo Station (a block from Ku'dam). With your stated interests, I can suggest getting off the train at Wannsee on the return trip..take a taxi to The Wannsee Konferenz Haus...a most sobering visit to this mansion on the lake...where in January 1942, the one-day planning session for the "final solution" was held (ironically, next door is The Max Liebermann Manse...he was a German-Jewish artist of world note...his work was banned..and he died in 1935).

Back in the city, you can visit the poignantly unique deportee monument off the beaten track at the corner of Levatow and Jagow Strasse. You'll probably be there alone.
It's a taxi ride...but I believe you can bus it, also.

http://picasaweb.google.com/stuarttower/Wansee05#

At any rate, Danon,I hope the remainder of your visit works out well...you sure have many excellent suggestions from the posters. One more, if German food does not appeal to you, may I recommend "Via Condotti" a superb Italan place, just south of Ku'damm on Fasenenstrasse (sp).(Kempinski Hotel is on the north corner).

Zeppole, noting your Bauhaus-Gropius interest, my brother-in-law was one of his associates in Cambridge for about 10 years prior to Walter's death. While we still lived in Mass. we were fortunate enough to meet him at an office gathering. His house in Lincoln, MA is now open to the public I've been told.
Richard built his own house in Concord with many suggestions from the "boss"...

Stu

Dutch, thanks.

Stu/tower, yes, you are correct that the Gropius House in Lincoln Mass is open to the public. It is managed by Historic New England. Apart from regular tours (excellent), during warmer season they also offer night time tours on selected Friday nights.
http://www.historicnewengland.org/vi...es/gropius.htm

In case anyone is going to Berlin soon and interested in Bauhaus, there's an exhibition on Bauhaus at the Martin-Gropius-Bau through October 4, 2009:
http://www.modell-bauhaus.de/index.php

Unfortunately, Bauhaus Archiv is closed for the next few months.

I think Berlin grows on you after a few days.

I was there the the second time a couple of years ago. I loved it more the second time. But we were there for 9 days and really got a chance to soak it up.

I second the suggestion of taking an all day walking tour with Brewers Tours. It was the highlight of my stay there. Puts the entire city into perspective, historically, and you'll learn tons of great trivia and see off-the-tourist radar sites. Excellent tour guides, too.

Definitely get up early and climb to the Reichstag dome, for sure.

And, consider hopping the subway/train to Sachsenhausen concentration camp. An excellent daytrip.

Thanks tower! Certainly he changed my life in ways I can't even begin to know. I think the NYTimes just did an article on the new exhibit yk mentioned. I enjoyed my visit to the Bauhaus Archiv, but it's too bad I can't make it to Berlin (I don't think) before that exhibit closes.

zeppole, thanks for pointing out the NYT review on the Bauhaus exhibit. I haven't been reading the NYT recently so I easily would have missed it. Now I'm even more excited! Looks like the exhibit will go to NYC's MOMA, so you can always plan for that instead.

In case anyone is interested, this is the link to the NYT article:
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/27/fa...-design27.html

''Well, Paris and Barcelona weren't bombed to smithereens, for one thing. Nor were they divided, crudely, into two cities with competing things to prove, fast. ''

zeppole, you are so right! What was I thinking...
I had something like Bebelplatz or Gendarmenmarkt in mind ( have seen both... lovely..)as Berlin.
Seeing the photos of what most places near the Wall looked like only 20 yers ago was an education.
I don't think I have the time for Potsdam.
Thanks Thin for mentioning ( some time ago) Melia - great location, big room ,and a very good price !
Thank you all for taking time to give me your ideas.
As I said, I have visited many great museums and galleries in Europe ( let's not forget New York!) but there is always more ... and never enough time.

''The Wannsee Konferenz Haus...a most sobering visit to this mansion on the lake...where in January 1942, the one-day planning session for the "final solution"''
tower,
there was a German film ( not a doc., but made in that style ) '' Wannesee' ( not sure about the title), I saw it yers ago ...

From an earlier report:

We also recommend the 3.5 hour round trip on the Landwehr Kanal and the Spree which gives a good view of Berlin old and new. The tour starts near the Jannowitzbrücke U & S-Bahn station. We had no reservations, and got the last seats on the boat. The commentaries are all in German, but we could have received a hand-out in English if necessary. The Landwehr Kanal goes through the old neighborhoods with their 19th century houses--although there are exceptions--while the ride up the Spree showcases all the brand new buildings around the government center.

Second the boat trip idea. Some really excellent views especially around the Reichstag and Museum Island. Breakfast at the Cafe Einstein on Kurfuerstenstrass or Unter der Linden is really nice too.

thanks again
I got the info. on Bauhaus, would love to see it... only two days left... my feet are no more ( I came here from Prague and Dresden...)

Sounds like you're warming up to the city somewhat,
Danon..yes, the 2001 film was not a documentary..it starred Kenneth Branagh as Heydrich, and can you believe Stanly Tucci as Eichman...they were both quite marvelous in their roles....but in the late 1980's, a German-made film I thought was decidedly better, less dramatic overtones..but that was exactly what made it a more powerful rendition..the "matter of fact" swaggers..the petty arguments between the talking heads, the power plays...just like any other business meeting...made it quite a bit more chilling than the Branagh version. Rent either one...

Stu

yk...thanks for verifying what I had heard from afar.
My BIL's place in Concord naturally has some aspects of the the Gropius house in Lincoln. It was funny when Dick (BIL) used to tell us how Walter craftily imposed his greater experience and knowledge on Dick's drawings for the Concord House..it's quite beautiful. Damn..now you've got me mssing Massachusetts! (been gone for 52 years).

Stu

You are staying at the Sol Melia?? Great!!

Did you walk along the Spree and cross over the bridge behind the Bode Museum to go to Prenzlauer Berg?

I love that little bridge. I will always remember it because on Christmas Eve I bought some gluewine and toasted my dead mother whilst looking up at the stars in the sky.

Don't forget that there is a Laduree in the basement of Galleries Lafayette on Friedrichstrasse. Go get some delicious macaroons. They will make you smile.

Really, danon, the dome of the Reichstag Building was the highlight of my trip to Berlin. I felt like I was in an eagle's nest looking down over the city.

Thin

There's a Laduree in Berlin!!!??? Thanks Thin! I'll be there.

I saw Bauhaus at the Martin-Gropius-Bau today .WOW - best of everything :the building, the location ( right next to the Wall) and ,of course, the exhibited work..
We have seen a great Kandinsky exhibit in Paris just this May , I did not know he was a teacher at Bauhaus...
Thanks for the NT link. Not much has been advertised here (in English) about the event. ....
I can order a meal and ask for my shoe size in five languages - German is not one of them.
Thin, I love Melia (and the bridge), there are some nice bars and restaurants by the river...
I have gone to Lafayette several times .. good food..

I have done a 'bad' thing and booked lunch at the top of the
Reichstag Building for tomorrow... well, it is my last day here....

Also seen Helmut Newton Musem today, love his racy (.. sooo German) photos.
Walked into the Kulturforum, but did not have time to visit any of the galleries.
Hope to go to Hamburger Bahnhof tomorrow and later to Pergamon for 1-2 hours.
Thank you all again for so many good ideas.
After five nights in Prague, two in Dresden and six in Berlin
I can say : it was a great trip!.. My only regret is that this time of the year there were no performances at the Opera (s) or concerts by the Berlin Philharmonic..
Some other time?

Just to let you know that if you have a reservation for the restaurant, you can by-pass the long lines; there's a side entrance to get to the elevators.

thanks Michael . Will do!

danon, thanks for the positive review!!!!! I'm really excited about it. Are there plenty of English explanation at the Bauhaus exhibit?

BTW, I emailed the Bauhaus-Archiv, and the reply was that the Archiv right now is EMPTY, but it's open for architecture tour, so one can actually see the Gropius building without being distracted by the displays inside. There are English audioguides for the architecture tour.

I guess I'll also have to make a lunch reservation for Reichstag. We did that on our trip 6 years ago, and I guess the lines are still as long now as it was back then.

I also have Hamburger-Bahnhof on my list too. BTW, I really, really would love if you could post a (brief) trip report when you return... please???

I think I went to the Reichstag Building on a Sunday around 10 AM and only had to wait 20 minutes to get in.

Yes, Laduree is in the basement of Galleries Lafayette--the Food Halls. Lots of goodies there. They even sell Mariage Freres' tea.

Thin

' Are there plenty of English explanation at the Bauhaus exhibit? '
'

Yes, I don't know what people who don't speak Enghish do when they travel the world...

' if you could post a (brief) trip report when you return... please???'

sure, I'll do it on the weekend.

'German-made film I thought was decidedly better, less dramatic overtones..but that was exactly what made it a more powerful rendition..the "matter of fact" swaggers..the petty arguments between the talking heads, the power plays...just like any other business meeting...made it quite a bit more chilling than the Branagh version. Rent either one...'
tower,
I have seen the German version.. as you said - it was chilling.