Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Another Italy itinerary question

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If you're not sure about Umbria, maybe you should consider Le Marche. The landscape is similar to Tuscany and Umbria. It's a long, narrow region, whose western border is the Apennine mountain chain, and whose eastern border is the Adriatic Sea. In between is a beautiful region of hills, castles, and walled towns. In many places you can see the sea and snow-capped (except in summer) mountains at the same time.

The best-known town in Le Marche is Urbino, which is a Renaissance hill town with one of Italy's most beautiful ducal palaces. It may not be the best town for a base, because of the long drive up and down the hill on which it sits, but I can suggest several towns that would be good bases for day trips.

Cagli, near the Umbrian border, is convenient for day trips both to Umbria and in Le Marche. The closest Umbrian town of any size is Gubbio. It would also be a good base for visiting Urbino, and for visits to several castle towns and medieval monasteries. North of there, Le Marche borders the eastern (and less touristy) part of Tuscany.

Further south, also near the Umbrian border, Camerino is a very nice but little-known hill town, which was the base of the Duchy of Spoleto in the middle ages. It also is on top of a fairly high hill, but there are several nearby towns in the valley that would be good bases. My favorites are Fiuminata and Pioraco, but there are also many agriturismo-type lodgings in the open countryside. This area is within easy reach of Assisi, Spoleto, Spello, Norcia, and Perugia, but there is also plenty to see and do in the surrounding areas of Le Marche.

If you want to be nearer the coast, the area around Senigallia, Fano, and the immediate interior is a good choice. Senigallia has probably the nicest beach on this stretch of the Adriatic, and is also a very lively and attractive town, that's not primarily a "beach town". It has some of Italy's best restaurants, including two that have two Michelin stars apiece (Madonnina del Pescatore and Uliassi). In the interior, anything near Mondavio, Monterado (where there's an inn in a castle) and Corinaldo (a jewel of a walled town) would be very convenient for day trips to Urbino and charming small towns and castles.

Another coastal town I really like is Torre di Palme, much further south, a tiny walled town on a cliff overlooking the sea. It's convenient to Ascoli Piceno, and other interesting places like Offida and Urbisaglia.

Thank you both for some great ideas to ponder!

zoecat: How long do you think one would need at Como? I have 10 nights to work with. And it seems a minimum of 2 nights for Ravenna?

bvlenci: I have to get the map out. BTW, how do you say Le Marche? "Mark"? Thank you so much.

<<zoecat: How long do you think one would need at Como? I have 10 nights to work with. And it seems a minimum of 2 nights for Ravenna?>>

I don't think you're spending too much time at Lake Como- I just recommend more time for Umbria (or La Marche) because there is so much to explore in those regions.

2 nights in Ravenna would give you a full day there. For me, it would be enough.

Holy cow! jamikins and bvlenci, you have really got me on a new track. So...
1. That area around Gubbio looks great, but jamikins, you make the driving sound awful. Fiuminata and Pioraco are within day trip distance of Gubbio?
2. My feeling is to stay somewhere "countryish", but close enough to drive to and from dinner in a town. Does that narrow down my possibilities? In looking at some of the agriturismos, they seem a bit remote.

zoecat; I thought Ravenna was a pleasant town outside of all the wonderful mosaics, no?

I think Bikerscott has taken liberties for humour! Some back roads were terrible but most are absolutely fine!

If we go back we are going to look at places around Cagli and Urbania if that helps!

I just love how untouristy and untouched the area feels.

I don't think Perugia or Assisi is a good base for Umbria. Perugia is too complicated if you have a car, getting in and out for day trips, and Assisi gets mobbed with tourists -- and its main attraction is "old" churches.

If neither you or your travel partner minds steep walks and stairs, then Spello or Montefalco are good bases. I like Montefalco because it has the most wide open views and also the best red wine, and if I am going to drink red wine, I like to stay in the town where it's made so I don't need to drive after drinking it at dinner. If you don't like the thought of a hill town, many people enjoy Bevagna.

I also enjoyed visiting le Marche, although I did not visit the parts with wide open scenic vistas. I saw more mountainous areas and caves, but also enjoyed small towns. I stayed near Urbino (at a place called Hotel NeNe, which served memorable food).

I once sort of did that trip the other way: Flew into Milan, started out at a lake, went to Ravenna, then to Le Marche, then to Umbria, then to Rome.

I spent 2 nights in Ravenna because I wanted to see all of the historic sites in town, plus the mosaic basilica just 10 kms south of Ravenna proper. Ravenna itself is a very pleasant town with good food. If you are coming from either Le Marche or Umbria, I think you will need to spend 2 nights in Ravenna or else you will end up arriving at your next stop -- Lago di Como -- in the dark.

Since you are giving up Venice to fulfull your travel partner's desire for vistas and countryside, would help if your travel partner is specific about what landscapes are desired. Many people very much want to see wine country and the views they have seen of rolling hills and cypress trees (and aren't put off by seeing many other tourists). Others really like a sense of adventure and a variety of agricultures, and maybe a few dramatic mountain views, or sea views (possible in Le Marche).

I will also point out that it is a little known "secret" that there are lovely hills, vineyards and towns with castles rather close to Ravenna -- Brisighella, Marradi, Dozza. If you wanted, you could take a train from Rome to Bologna, get a car and stay in Brisighella or Ravenna, and poke around.

http://www.brisighella.org/en/

http://goeurope.about.com/od/brisigh...from-above.htm

http://www.bestsmalltownsitaly.com/t...romagna-north/

http://www.locandalacavallina.it/locanda/it/dove-siamo

I meant to give you links to Dozza

http://italyproject365.com/dozza-emilia-romagna/

http://www.emiliaromagnaturismo.it/e...etails?ID=1327

and Marradi, which is not far from Brisighella if one wants a walk in the woods and a charming town

http://www.palazzotorriani.it/eng-marradi.htm

So there are all different kinds of landscapes...

We stopped in for lunch in Brisighella one trip and it was lovely!