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MinnBeef Sep 25th, 2021 04:47 PM

A Wonderful 18 Nights in Venice and Sicily
 
Hi everyone. Posting some thoughts and photos on my trip to Venice and Sicily from last August and early September. This was my 5th trip to Italy and 3rd time to Venice but my first visit to Sicily. In total, I spent 6 night in Venice, including a day trip to Padua to meet up with my brother and two of his daughters, one of whom has been doing graduate work in Italy for the past year and will be interning at a winery in Alto Adige very soon, and then 12 nights in Sicily.

Overall, I visited Venice, Padua, Siracusa, Noto, Catania, Villa Romana del Casale, Caltagirone, Taormina and Palermo. I had planned all the time to also hit Agrigento (only a two hour train ride from Palermo) but by the time I got to that part of my trip, it was day 16 and I decided last minute that I more needed to sleep in than to visit Greek temples. :)

My top impressions from this trip:

1. It had been 18 years since my last visit to Venice and this one was by far my favorite. There are some personal reason behind some of that but this time, Venice just seemed even more beautiful than I remembered it. I also made it a point to rent an AirBnB in San Polo which allowed me to see more of the “real Venice” away from the tourist throngs in San Marco and Dorsoduro.
2. Padua is charming. The Basilica is beautiful and the Scrovegni Chapel is truly stunning. I could have spent an hour there easily but one gets only 15 minutes. No more, no less.
3. Delicious food can be found in Venice if you get out of the tourist areas. And I discovered the wines of Miani at Bancogiro, an upscale wine bar behind the Rialto market. Miani wines are stunning!
4. The Basilica San Marco is one of the most spectacular buildings on earth. ‘Nuff said.
5. Sicily is not easy travel due to the heat of August/September along with distances between sites. But it was visually, aurally and gastronomically stimulating at all times!
6 The mosaics in Palermo’s Capella Palatina, La Mortadana and in the Monreale Cathedral rival (and maybe even top) those in Istanbul and Ravenna.
7. Catania is very underrated as a travel destination and I loved it. Standing on the roof of Sant’Agata della Badia and hearing Etna explode in the distance behind the clouds was truly memorable.
8. Hiking Mt. Etna for a couple of hours was very enjoyable.
9. I was a bit underwhelmed with the mosaics at the Villa Romana del Casale but an still very glad I went.
10. I loved when I’d interact with Italians who did not speak English because it gave me 100% opportunity to practice my Italian. I’m not fluent but I’m pretty good and too often I’d meet Italians who’d reply back to me in English so that they could practice their English.
11. Palermo has an extraordinary number of beautify churches, filled not only with mosaics but many with beautiful Baroque architecture.
12. Wandering the Balaro market in Palermo was great fun.

Italy is truly an incredible country that’s would take years to fully explore. The food, the wine, the history, the art and architecture and the passions of its people are things all travelers need to experience at least once and preferably, multiple times. I know I will be back in the not too distant future for trip 6.

Here are some photos that I hope you enjoy.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ea02375d.jpeg
Basilica di San Marco, one of the most beautiful buildings on Earth!
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Beautiful mosaic of the transportation of St. Mark’s body from Alexandria (Egypt, not Minnesota!) to Venice.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6552ed23d.jpeg
St. Mark’s Square
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Campanile
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The entrance to the Grand Canal from the top of the Campanille.
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Veal with Tuna Sauce. (Note: I generally oppose eating veal for ethical reasons but it’s a famous dish of northern Italy. And it was delicious.
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Stunning Murano glass chandelier inside the Ca’ Rezzonico.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...14ebc1f82.jpeg
Rialto Bridge
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Padua’s Palzzo delle Ragione. Inside on the ground floor are all shorts of fun food shops.
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Basilica Sant’Ambrogio. . Padua.
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Tomb of St. Anthony inside his basilica in Padua
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Meeting up with my brother (seated) and two of his girls in Padua.
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The breathtaking Cappella degli Scrovegni in Padua. The walls are filled with incredible frescoes by Giotto.
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Jesus warns Mary Magdalene to not touch him after his Resurrection. Capella degli Scrovegni.
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Sunset over San Polo from my rooftop terrace in Venice.
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San Giorgio Maggiore from the vaporetto.
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Grand Canal
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Cool palazzo with what sure looks like gold leaf decorations.
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Incredible Miani wine with tuna tartare. Bancogiro in Venice.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1e0ea3ab9.jpeg
King Scallops, octopus and assorted seafood in a shop window the Cannoneggio sestiere in Venice.

.

MinnBeef Sep 25th, 2021 07:49 PM

BTW, I’ll post some of my favorite Sicily photos shortly.

tracilee Sep 25th, 2021 08:05 PM

Nice report, thank you! My fingers are crossed that I’ll be in Venice at the end of October. I just googled the Miani wine and - wow- it’s very expensive! But maybe I was looking at the price here in the US. Did you find it expensive?

cafegoddess Sep 25th, 2021 11:59 PM

Hi Minnbeef, thank you for your sharing your trip with us. After seeing your pictures of Venice, I wished I included a stop there. I am currently in Lake Como.

Your pictures are beautiful, Italy is truly an amazing country!

ToujoursVoyager Sep 26th, 2021 03:17 AM

Thank you for posting! I love Venice, and I think I love it more every time I go back! Your pictures want me to book a plane ticket right now!

TDudette Sep 26th, 2021 05:15 AM

Sighing for Italy. Thanks MinnBeef. Nice pix.

MinnBeef Sep 26th, 2021 05:58 AM


Originally Posted by tracilee (Post 17289934)
Nice report, thank you! My fingers are crossed that I’ll be in Venice at the end of October. I just googled the Miani wine and - wow- it’s very expensive! But maybe I was looking at the price here in the US. Did you find it expensive?

I guess it depends on what one considers expensive. My friends and I are big aficionados. It was listed on Bancogiro’s menu as a Coravin selection (allowing them to pour individual glasses without removing the cork). It was 15 euro per glass or about $17. Considering many wines by the glass in the US can easily be $12 or $13 per and often not to one’s liking, I thought the per glass price was a bargain for the quality. Certainly a bottle sourced in the US, once it’s gone through the 3-tier markup system would be very high. Probably $100/per.

MinnBeef Sep 26th, 2021 05:59 AM


Originally Posted by cafegoddess (Post 17289948)
Hi Minnbeef, thank you for your sharing your trip with us. After seeing your pictures of Venice, I wished I included a stop there. I am currently in Lake Como.

Your pictures are beautiful, Italy is truly an amazing country!

Hi cafegoddess. Hope your trip is going well. You will just have to go back to Italy on another trip and be sure to include Venice. As I mentioned, I gave it 6 nights/5 1/2 days which I am so glad I did.

MinnBeef Sep 26th, 2021 06:00 AM


Originally Posted by ToujoursVoyager (Post 17289963)
Thank you for posting! I love Venice, and I think I love it more every time I go back! Your pictures want me to book a plane ticket right now!

Thank you, TourjoursVoyager. Interestingly enough, that has been my experience also, of loving Venice more each time I visit.

MinnBeef Sep 26th, 2021 06:01 AM


Originally Posted by TDudette (Post 17289981)
Sighing for Italy. Thanks MinnBeef. Nice pix.

Thank you, TDudette.

MinnBeef Sep 26th, 2021 07:34 AM

Adding in some of my favorite Sicily photos.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4a668bd4c.jpeg
Ravioli with Baby Shrimp and Jumbo Prawns in a Pumpkin Sauce. Siracusa.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...813756d98.jpeg
Beautiful Siracusa Duomo.
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Joining the Siracusans on their evening passeggiata
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Fresh swordfish for sale at the Ortigia market. Siracusa
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Looking out over the gorgeous baroque city of Noto.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b95f38ffc.jpeg
Noto Cathedral
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La Pescheteria (fish market). Catania.
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Sea urchins for sale at La Pescheteria.
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The famous “Umbrella Street” of Catania.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0077d33a1.jpeg
Prickly pear fruit is in season in Sicily
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Sicilian puppets for sale in Catania.
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Mount Etna erupts over the vineyards right before we begin our hike.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...812b9bb71.jpeg
Hiking Mt, Etna
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Skyline of the interior town of Piazza Armerina
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One of the many detailed floor mosaics at the Villa Romana del Casale
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The famed ceramic tiled steps of Caltagirone
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Tile detail.
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Looking out over Catania’s Piazza del Duomo
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You can’t hear it but trust me, Mt. Etna is loudly erupting behind those clouds. Catania
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3aa354597.jpeg
St. Agatha stands guard over her city from the top of the Duomo on a steamy night in the gritty but delightful city of Catania.
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Piazza Bellini, featuring Catania’s grand opera house
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The water is naturally freezing cold at the bottom of the Alcantara Gorge
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Looking out over the harbor of Taormina
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The sun breaks through for a moment just before sunset over Taormina’s 2000 year old Teatro Greco
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Beach day at Isola Bella. Taormina
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One half of the Quattro Canti (Four Corners). Arguable the symbol of Palermo
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The over the top baroque splendor of Santa Catarina church. Palermo
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If you’ve seen The Godfather Part III, you’ll recognize Palermo’s Teatro Massimo opera house.
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Palermo Cathedral
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The sentiment runs strong in Palermo and understandably so.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a2f6dd2c2.jpeg
Stunning mosaics inside Palermo’s La Mortorana chuch.
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Death of the Virgin. La Mortorana
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17th century Italian rickshaw inside Palermo’s Palazzo Normanni
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Your jaw will drop the moment you enter inside Palermo’s Capella Pallatina
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Sta. Peter and Paul stand in judgment in front of Nero. Capella Pallatina
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A Sicilian Spritz, made with limoncello instead of aperol. Super refreshing on a hot and humid afternoon in Palermo.
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Archway in Palermo
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Looking over the Palermo skyline from the roof of the Cathedral
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Ballaro market in Palermo
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I paid $3.50 for these vacuum-packed sun dried tomatoes at the Ballaro market that would have cost me $12 here at home
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The beautiful alter and mosaic of Christ Pantocrator inside the Cathedral of Monreale
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Farewell Palermo and Sicily!

Leely2 Sep 26th, 2021 01:45 PM

I have been to Venice a few times in recent years (pre-pandemic) after not having been in about a decade. Despite people saying Venice is no good for food, that hasn't been my experience at all. There's a terrific food scene there now, but yes, you need to do some research and sometimes go a little off the beaten path. I had a great lunch at Bancogiro (which is central) in 2019, so thanks for reminding me!

Loved Sicily and hope to return some day--looking forward to your photos.

ETA: You posted your Sicily photos while I was typing. Gorgeous! Thanks.

MinnBeef Sep 26th, 2021 02:01 PM


Originally Posted by Leely2 (Post 17290119)
I have been to Venice a few times in recent years (pre-pandemic) after not having been in about a decade. Despite people saying Venice is no good for food, that hasn't been my experience at all. There's a terrific food scene there now, but yes, you need to do some research and sometimes go a little off the beaten path. I had a great lunch at Bancogiro (which is central) in 2019, so thanks for reminding me!

Loved Sicily and hope to return some day--looking forward to your photos.

ETA: You posted your Sicily photos while I was typing. Gorgeous! Thanks.

Thank you Leely2. Like you, I often enjoy reading the trip reports of others’ in places I’ve already visited. it takes me back to my own travels and sometimes, shows me what I missed and why I need to go back!

annw Sep 26th, 2021 05:00 PM

Thanks for the report and the fabulous pics! We'll be in Venice at the end of this week!

MinnBeef Sep 26th, 2021 05:34 PM


Originally Posted by annw (Post 17290159)
Thanks for the report and the fabulous pics! We'll be in Venice at the end of this week!

Enjoy! Hope you have as beautiful weather as I did.

tracilee Sep 26th, 2021 06:21 PM

Thanks MinnBeef, I will be on the lookout for the wine!

millie2112 Sep 27th, 2021 12:42 AM

Thanks for posting MinnBeef... I am planning a trip to Sicily. and your pics have enforced this. I just need to wait until we Australians are allowed out of the country.

geetika Sep 27th, 2021 02:44 AM

MinnBeef, many thanks for the stunning pictures and TR. Venice is undoubtedly a gem, we have made multiple visits over the last 40 years and the spell still enchants…

Sicily is on the agenda for late spring next year, have been to parts of the east, but this time want to tour longer and in greater detail. Your pictures just whet my appetite…😊

Adelaidean Sep 27th, 2021 03:25 AM

I fear I’m never going to get to Sicily, so thanks for sharing - this might have to do!

rialtogrl Sep 27th, 2021 03:48 AM

Great photos MinnBeef! I am glad you enjoyed your trip.

I just left Catania yesterday for Rome. Last week, Etna blew a giant mass of volcanic sand/rock thousands of meters into the air. The ground was covered in it, walking on it sounds like walking on corn flakes. I have seen Etna many times but never this. I agree Catania is underrated and Palermo was so full of garbage this time.. I hope they can get it together.

if you can ever go back to Padova, get a ‘double turn” ticket for the Scrovegni chapel. They only do it at night. You can be inside for 40 minutes. I did it once and it was two groups of people for fifteen minutes but I was the only double turn. So for ten glorious minutes I was COMPLETELY ALONE in the chapel. It was so amazing.. still gives me chills to think about it.

I’ll check out that wine next time I am in Venezia.




MinnBeef Sep 27th, 2021 03:57 PM


Originally Posted by millie2112 (Post 17290222)
Thanks for posting MinnBeef... I am planning a trip to Sicily. and your pics have enforced this. I just need to wait until we Australians are allowed out of the country.

I hope that that will be soon.

MinnBeef Sep 27th, 2021 03:57 PM


Originally Posted by geetika (Post 17290227)
MinnBeef, many thanks for the stunning pictures and TR. Venice is undoubtedly a gem, we have made multiple visits over the last 40 years and the spell still enchants…

Sicily is on the agenda for late spring next year, have been to parts of the east, but this time want to tour longer and in greater detail. Your pictures just whet my appetite…😊

Thank you. And good luck with your trip planning.

MinnBeef Sep 27th, 2021 03:58 PM


Originally Posted by Adelaidean (Post 17290230)
I fear I’m never going to get to Sicily, so thanks for sharing - this might have to do!

I’ll keep my fingers crossed that you find a way to get there in person!

MinnBeef Sep 27th, 2021 04:00 PM


Originally Posted by rialtogrl (Post 17290234)
Great photos MinnBeef! I am glad you enjoyed your trip.

I just left Catania yesterday for Rome. Last week, Etna blew a giant mass of volcanic sand/rock thousands of meters into the air. The ground was covered in it, walking on it sounds like walking on corn flakes. I have seen Etna many times but never this. I agree Catania is underrated and Palermo was so full of garbage this time.. I hope they can get it together.

if you can ever go back to Padova, get a ‘double turn” ticket for the Scrovegni chapel. They only do it at night. You can be inside for 40 minutes. I did it once and it was two groups of people for fifteen minutes but I was the only double turn. So for ten glorious minutes I was COMPLETELY ALONE in the chapel. It was so amazing.. still gives me chills to think about it.

I’ll check out that wine next time I am in Venezia.

Wow that would have been pretty incredible to have been in Catania when that happened? Was it scary or more cool?

Thanks for the tip on the Capella degli Scovegni. That must have been incredible having the whole place to yourself. I’m jealous!

john183 Sep 27th, 2021 04:23 PM

Your wonderful pictures make me miss Venice (last visit was 2012) and Sicily (visited in 2017) more than ever. We stayed a block away from the "Four Corners" in Palermo and liked the neighborhood a lot. Thanks for posting.

MinnBeef Sep 27th, 2021 05:21 PM


Originally Posted by john183 (Post 17290483)
Your wonderful pictures make me miss Venice (last visit was 2012) and Sicily (visited in 2017) more than ever. We stayed a block away from the "Four Corners" in Palermo and liked the neighborhood a lot. Thanks for posting.

My pleasure John. All the more reason for you to go back soon!

MinnBeef Sep 28th, 2021 11:49 AM

A few more favorite photos that I managed to originally overlook:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bdee1cb2d.jpeg
Archangel Michael slays the dragon. Basilica di San Marco
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...93b54016d.jpeg
Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore from the top of the Campanille
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f5b6dcf88.jpeg
Bridge of Sighs
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Recovery of St.Mark’s Body from Alexandria. Accademia Gallery. Venice
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fca029898.jpeg
The Magi Worshipping the Baby Jesus while Halley’s Comet passes over. Fresco by Giotto. Capella degli Scrovegni
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d37487249.jpeg
Piazzetta di San Marco from the water
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6096590ef.jpeg
A gourmet’s delight. Truffle products store. Canareggio sestiere. Venice
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4f4ee505e.jpeg
Siracua’s Piazza del Duomo
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I got this fresh oyster and a glass of fizz for just 2.5 euro at the Ortigia market
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...10d962ed9.jpeg
Noto
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6bdc6b40f.jpeg
Palazzo Municipale. Noto
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Hiking in a lava cave. Mt. Etna
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cb7a3b81a.jpeg
Sunset over Piazza del Duomo. Catania.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c3b8ace8a.jpeg
Mosaic of Jesus crowning the Sicilian king, Roger II. La Mortorana church. Palermo
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Melanzane for sale in the Balaro market. (My Grandma from Naples called these “mullanjohn”. (Sp?????)
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The story of Noah and the Ark. L-R: Building the ark, Loading the animals, The Flood, Ark comes to rest on Mt. Ararat, The rainbow covenant with God. Monreale cathedral

rialtogrl Sep 28th, 2021 12:01 PM


Originally Posted by MinnBeef (Post 17290478)
Wow that would have been pretty incredible to have been in Catania when that happened? Was it scary or more cool?

Thanks for the tip on the Capella degli Scovegni. That must have been incredible having the whole place to yourself. I’m jealous!

I was in the Milo area, not Catania.. around Milo the ground, cars, houses were covered in black. It blew in the morning. I was in Catania later in the day and you could see the cloud but it was not coming down in Catania. I guess this has happened a lot this year, more than other years..

bon_voyage Sep 28th, 2021 12:26 PM

MinnBeef, your report and photos brought back especially cherished memories of our family trip to Sicily—thank you!

MinnBeef Sep 29th, 2021 06:25 AM


Originally Posted by bon_voyage (Post 17290752)
MinnBeef, your report and photos brought back especially cherished memories of our family trip to Sicily—thank you!

bon_voyage: My pleasure!

Iwan2go Sep 29th, 2021 07:27 AM

Oh my gosh, Minn, these photos are beautiful! I have been thinking more and more about a trip to Sicily but had not done much “visual” research, and now it is firmly on my list. Sooooo much to see and experience.

BTW, though all of the mosaics photos are wonderful, for some reason when I saw the one of the hikers in the cave it really caught my attention. I don’t know if it was the quality of the light, the composition, the way one of the figures was blurred, or what - but I really liked it. It seemed timeless.

thank you!

MinnBeef Sep 29th, 2021 10:32 AM


Originally Posted by Iwan2go (Post 17290978)
Oh my gosh, Minn, these photos are beautiful! I have been thinking more and more about a trip to Sicily but had not done much “visual” research, and now it is firmly on my list. Sooooo much to see and experience.

BTW, though all of the mosaics photos are wonderful, for some reason when I saw the one of the hikers in the cave it really caught my attention. I don’t know if it was the quality of the light, the composition, the way one of the figures was blurred, or what - but I really liked it. It seemed timeless.

thank you!

Thank you so much. Glad you enjoyed them and hope to read about your own trip to Sicily down the road.

donghothongminhcahe Sep 30th, 2021 02:18 AM

Thank you, nice report!!

russ_in_LA Sep 30th, 2021 04:12 AM

Hey MinnBeef, I love, love, love your photos! I’m so glad you got back to Venice. Our trip there last year was definitely our favorite as well. I agree with you about the mosaics in Monreale. Unreal! We’ve never been to Catania, but adding to our list. Thanks for posting!

wanderinglia10 Sep 30th, 2021 04:46 AM

Hey MinnBeef,
Thank you for such lovely pictures. It's like a mini trip to Venice which is very tempting and pushing me to book my tickets for Venice and have fun around.

panecott Sep 30th, 2021 06:37 AM

Wonderful report, MinnBeef, and gorgeous photos. They brought back so many memories! Sicily is my favorite place in the world and it looks like you saw many of the highlights. I have been there 5 times so far and have never seen Etna in action! It has always been asleep during my visits so you were very fortunate to see some activity. I know it has been very busy in the past two years - just when I was unable to travel due to Covid!! BTW, you are the only other person I know - besides me - who was underwhelmed by the mosaics at Piazza Armerina. I even went back a second time, several years after my first visit, to see if I felt differently from a more "adult" perspective, but no. :( Anyway, if you go back to Sicily be sure to see the temples - not just at Agrigento but at Segesta and Selinunte as well. The Greek ruins in Sicily are more impressive than those in Greece!

Jsm1 Sep 30th, 2021 09:21 AM

It was a pleasure to read your post! Venice is one of my favorite cities and your pictures have me making plans to visit right now!

MinnBeef Sep 30th, 2021 04:00 PM


Originally Posted by donghothongminhcahe (Post 17291229)
Thank you, nice report!!

Thank you!

MinnBeef Sep 30th, 2021 04:02 PM


Originally Posted by russ_in_LA (Post 17291239)
Hey MinnBeef, I love, love, love your photos! I’m so glad you got back to Venice. Our trip there last year was definitely our favorite as well. I agree with you about the mosaics in Monreale. Unreal! We’ve never been to Catania, but adding to our list. Thanks for posting!

Thank you Russ. I guess the moral of that story is everyone needs to travel to Venice at least 2 times. 3 is better! Hope you do get to Catania. It’s definitely gritty but in a good way.

MinnBeef Sep 30th, 2021 04:05 PM


Originally Posted by wanderinglia10 (Post 17291250)
Hey MinnBeef,
Thank you for such lovely pictures. It's like a mini trip to Venice which is very tempting and pushing me to book my tickets for Venice and have fun around.

Hope to hear that you have done just that!


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