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A Week in the Bernese Oberland or Somewhere Else?
Season's greetings to Fodorites all around the world. As I expect may be true for some of you as well, festive gatherings involve trading travel stories as well as planning new journeys. We're near committing to a week in the Swiss Alps over the last few days next August (7 to 9 nights), staying at one base, at most two.
We are looking for some place with plenty of easy-to-moderate half-to-full day hike options, up to 8 hours. Our objective is to be in the mountains rather than in the cities, as beautiful as it may be (I've enjoyed the limited time I had in Geneva many years ago). A good bit of our research has pointed us to the Bernese Oberland, although it seems like late-August may still be crowded in this part of Switzerland. I'm interested in feedback from those who've visited the Oberland during this time of year, and how crowded it was, as well as suggestions for other parts of the country that perhaps we should focus on instead of the Oberland. Thank you. |
I haven't been in Switzerland in August, but assuming the weather and crowds permit, I agree that the Bernese Oberland would suit your interests. That said, you might also look at the Engadine, upper or lower, or if you split bases, half in each. GORGEOUS and. I think, much less crowded as a rule than the Bernese Oberland.
Hope that helps! |
Hi tripplanner001,
Yes, I agree with kja above -- it would be worthwhile investigating the Engadin if you can only travel in August. While both areas may be crowded, I've found the crowds to be different. In the BE, the crowds are more like gawkers, with cameras, who sort of congregate at souvenir shops and at scenic vistas. In the Engadin, the crowds are more likely to be German-speaking families of hikers, geared up and heading to a cable car or trailhead to start a hike. Not to say there aren't hikers in the BE, just that there are many more folks who are mainly interested in snapping a few fabulous photos. I found there to be far fewer souvenir shops in the Engadin towns I stayed in/visited. I hope Melnq8 will pop in and link a few of her Trip Report threads, which are very informative. Have fun as you plan! s |
Personally, I'd avoid the Berner Oberland like the plague in the summer months. We haven't been to the BO for several years, but when we last visited (December) it was uncomfortably busy even then.
Switzerland has seen a marked increase in tourism over the last few years and the BO is one of the most visited areas, as most first timers head there for the reasons swandav has mentioned. Fortunately, Switzerland is full of beautiful areas and many are well off the tourist path. You'll find excellent hiking just about anywhere. We're fans of the Engadine too, although we've only visited during summer once, as most of our trips are Sept-Oct and late Nov-Dec. There were no crowds when we were there, but it was early June, which is a bit early by Swiss standards. With a bit of research you'll find many beautiful areas that will suit your hiking needs. You'll find several detailed trip reports from our many visits to Switzerland by clicking on my screen name and scrolling down through my trip reports. Our local resident and transport/hiking expert neckervd will no doubt have plentiful suggestions for you as well. |
"Switzerland has seen a marked increase in tourism over the last few years"
According to the official satistics: 35 million nights in the year 1980 37 million in 1990 35 million in 2000 39 million in 2020 42 million in 2024 |
Bernese Oberland:
There is some overtourism around Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen-Muerren-Wengen-Grindelwald. But the biggest part of Bernese Oberland is not concerned. Hiking Trails: There are more than 40 thousand miles of well signmarked panoramic hiking trails all over Switzerland. Areas with big clusters of mountain hiking trails, running mountain railways, rope railways, gondolas and frequent local buses:: Verbier Haute Nendaz Crans-Montana Gstaad Lenk Kandersteg with Loetschental (which can be reached from K'steg by train and bus in 30 min) St-Luc (Val d'Anniviers) Zermatt (more than 300 miles of trails, some of them in Italy) Sas Grund - Saas Fee Riederalp-Bettmeralp Lauterbrunnen-Muerren-Wengen Grindelwald Hasliberg Engelberg Airolo (rather noisy and not scenic at all) Flims-Laax Lenzerheide/Lai Arosa Klosters-Davos Scuol St. Moritz - Celerina - Pontresina Possibilities get much bigger if you don't mind to move a bit by frequent local trains or buses in order to reach other trails. You could then check places like Les Marécottes, La Fouly, Ferret, Evolene, Grimentz, Zinal, Fiesch, Andermatt, Disentis, Poschiavo..... At most places visited predominantly by Swiss and German people, high season ends mid August |
neckervd
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We spent a week-plus in the Swiss mountains in late August of 2022, including some time in the Berner Oberland. We stayed in Kandersteg, which is in a different valley than the most popular part (Lauterbrunnen, etc.). We didn't find it that crowded. By contrast, we went to Grindelwald one day for old times' sake (we had a memorable family trip there in 2002), and it was quite a a bit busier.
On that same trip, we spent four nights in Saas-Fee, which we loved, and I don't think we scratched the surface with hiking. The few trails we did hike were quiet. There were people around in town, but it was nowhere near as crowded as the BO, and it seemed like many were there for the summer ski school and/or summer skiing on the glacier. Zermatt, a valley over, was jammed with people, however. All that said, I'm not sure our experience in August 2022 is comparable to today, as it seemed like things were still returning to normal from the pandemic. It's been a few decades since I was in the Engadin, but it's definitely on our radar. |
Thank you everyone, as always. This seems to confirm what I've read so far about crowds in the Bernese Oberland, in which case we will avoid. Seems like the Engadin is the recommendation, but it may be crowded too?
kja, while I'm drawn to the scenic vistas and the myriad day hiking options there seems to be, we won't enjoy it if we will be dealing with crowds everyone. When you say the Engadine is gorgeous, do you have favorite parts in mind? swandav2000, you seem to suggest that crowds in the Bernese Oberland congregate at scenic viewpoints while crowds are along the trails at the Engadine - is this what you mean? In other words, we are more likely to get away from crowds on the trails in the Oberland than in the Engadine? Melnq8, your trip reports are on my agenda to review. Given that most of your trips are outside of the summer, as you mentioned, I wonder how much different it would be in August. neckervd, based on the number, it does not look like the jump in numbers is that great. Perhaps Switzerland has been crowded for a while but I don't recall that in 2010. ms_go, I will look into Saas-Fee and other places, but I'm wondering if going to Switzerland in August is a bad idea these days. |
Copy of a list of hiking areas I sent you some 8 hrs ago and which is ttill hidden by a moderator:Bernese Oberland:
There is some overtourism around Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen-Muerren-Wengen-Grindelwald. But the biggest part of Bernese Oberland is not concerned. Hiking Trails: There are more than 40 thousand miles of well signmarked panoramic hiking trails all over Switzerland. Areas with big clusters of mountain hiking trails, running mountain railways, rope railways, gondolas and frequent local buses:: Verbier Haute Nendaz Crans-Montana Gstaad Lenk Kandersteg with Loetschental (which can be reached from K'steg by train and bus in 30 min) St-Luc (Val d'Anniviers) Zermatt (more than 300 miles of trails, some of them in Italy) Sas Grund - Saas Fee Riederalp-Bettmeralp Lauterbrunnen-Muerren-Wengen Grindelwald Hasliberg Engelberg Airolo (rather noisy and not scenic at all) Flims-Laax Lenzerheide/Lai Arosa Klosters-Davos Scuol St. Moritz - Celerina - Pontresina Possibilities get much bigger if you don't mind to move a bit by frequent local trains or buses in order to reach other trails. You could then check places like Les Marécottes, La Fouly, Ferret, Evolene, Grimentz, Zinal, Fiesch, Andermatt, Disentis, Poschiavo..... At most places visited predominantly by Swiss and German people, high season ends mid August |
Some 5 hrs ago, I sent you a long list with descriptions of Swis hiking areas. It is still hidden by a moderator.
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neckervd
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Originally Posted by tripplanner001
(Post 17620685)
kja, When you say the Engadine is gorgeous, do you have favorite parts in mind?
My visit was at a rapid pace, with (by choice) walks of no more than 4 hours IIRC, but I found both the upper and lower Engadine breathtaking in different ways. I also included the magnificent Convent of St. John in Mustair in that part of my wonderful month in Switzerland. From my trip report: Day 14: Take the Bernina Express [I had been in Lugano] as far as Pontresina and then go to Mustair (night in Mustair). Day 15: Visit the Convent of St. John, move on to the Lower Engadine and visit Schloss Tarasp, walk from the castle to Tarasp-Vulpera, move on to Guarda (1st of 2 nights in Guarda). Day 16: Explore the Lower Engadine: Walk from Guarda to Ardez, visit Lavin, Scuol, and Sent (night in Guarda). Day 17: Move to the Upper Engadine; visit Diavolezza; night in Pontresina (1st of 3 nights in Pontresina). Day 18: Visit the Val Bregaglia: Take the bus to Soglio, walk to Castasegna and then through Bondo to Promontogno; return to Pontresina (night in Pontresina). Day 19: Walk from Muottas Muralg to Alp Languard; explore Pontresina (night in Pontresina). Day 20: [Leave the Engadine], taking a train through the Albula Pass .... |
Another vote for the Engadine that I never found to be crowded - not even in August (but don't stay in St. Moritz proper.) The Upper Engadine is at higher elevation but - surprisingly - feels like a wide open valley, while the Lower Engadine is at lower elevation but has a narrow valley floor (the villages are at the sunny slopes, mostly a bit higher up, though.) Both have their highlights. The Upper Engadine has more glaciers, the incredibly beautiful lakes. The Lower Engadine has the more beautiful (unspoilt) villages and is even less visited.
Some favourites in the Lower Engadine: - villages: Scuol, Guarda, Ardez, Sent - hikes: gondola to Motta Naluns - Prui - Ftan - Ardez (- Guarda maybe); Sent - Val Sinestra - Zuort - Vna; Pass dal Fuorn - S-charl; Pass dal Fuorn - Lü - Müstair; Buffalora - Munt la Schera - Il Fuorn - sights: castle Tarasp, convent Müstair (UNESCO world heritage site), National Park visitor center Some favourites in the Upper Engadine: - villages: Zuoz, Pontresina, Sils - hikes: Muottas Muragl - Alp Languard; Furtschellas - Marmore - Fex - Sils; Murtel - Fuorcla Surley - Hotel Roseg; Maloja - Lake Cavloc and back; Sfazu - Lake Saoseo and back (all these have variations - shorter or longer) - sights: museums in St. Moritz, churches in Pontresina and Celerina, viewpoints Diavolezza, Corvatsch, Muottas Muragl by cable cars, Bernina train ride - excursions: Bregaglia valley with village Soglio, Poschiavo, maybe Tirano with Bernina train Another plus IMO is that hotels in the Upper Engadine give you a card that includes bus, train and cable car rides in that area during your stay. If you stay in the Lower Engadine you ride the buses and trains in that part of the Lower Engadine for free (around Scuol e.g.) or you can buy a Graubünden pass which includes trains and buses in the whole Engadine (plus Bregagle and Poschiavo and even some neighbouring Austrian and Italian valleys.) |
Thanks again, everyone. Seems like we could base ourselves in the Engadine for the full 7 to 9 nights, perhaps splitting between Upper and Lower. Of the different suggested bases, would any be easier if we are relying on public transit and hope to walk to restaurants and shops?
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UPPER ENGADIN
Buses between Maloja - Sils Maria - Surlej - Silvaplana - Champfer - St. Moritz - Celerina - Pontresina - Diavolezza cableway and from Samedan to Celeriona - St. Moritz - Silvaplana - Surlej run at least every 30 min. So do the trains between St. Moritz - Celerina - Samedan - Zuoz- S-chanf Trains from St. Moritz to Pontresina - Diavolezza cableway - Bernina run every hr. So, public transport is no problem. You find groceries and restaurants in every village. There are restaurants at all cable car stations and along hiking trails. Jewelries, luxury clothes shops and banks at St. Moritz only. ATMs are omnipresent |
In the Upper Engadine all the villages have excellent bus and/or train service. I would base the decision where to stay on my prefered direction of excursions/hikes. If more toward Bernina pass then Pontresina is best, if more around the lakes and Bregaglia valley then Sils or Silvaplana. Samedan is another favourite of mine, mostly a place for locals and a railway hub.
In the Lower Engadine Scuol is the place to stay. Transportation hub, charming upper and lower village, inbetween a lively main street with shops, grocery stores, restaurants/cafes and - I forgot to mention in my previous post - the wonderful mineral spa. If you don't want to change bases then Zuoz would be a good village to stay, sort of half way between Upper and Lower Engadine (belongs to the Upper). Charming, quiet, train station, hotels, apartments, grocery etc. Just keep in mind it will be a half hour plus/one hour plus train ride to your points of interest. |
neckervd and Ingo, danke schon. Which part of the Engadin will give us snow-capped peaks and lakes?
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Upper Engadin for sure. Some old photos for illustration:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42786acf9f.jpg Muottas Muragl, toward Bernina massif https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7482e5f8e9.jpg Muottas Muragl, toward the lakes https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5902b2f927.jpg Piz Bernina and Piz Roseg from Fuorcla Surlej https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...597fcee824.jpg Bernina train ride, Piz Bernina from Montebello curve https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...390d68bba3.jpg Bernina train ride, lake Bianco https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...87d669fa3f.jpg Bernina train ride, view from near Alp Grüm |
Last picture of Ingo: Lake Palu, along he hiking trail Bernina Diavolezza railway station - Cavaglia railway station - Cadera railway station - Poschiavo.
There is another lake (Lake Caralin) behind the rocks where the creek comes down (hiking trail from Lake Palu). There are no glaciers worth to talk about in the Lower Engadin. There are big glaciers more in the East, however: Orltes.Cevedale group (along the border between Valtellina, South Tyrol and Trentino), Oetztaler Alpen (20 - 40 miles East of Scuol). |
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