Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Trip Report A Swiss Alpine Autumn

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Nelson -

The 1.5 mile bit sounds great, the 2,100 foot climb, not so much. Did you find it worth the effort?

Mel, well in our case it was a great option. Our scheduled route was over the pass from Gruben, but it was snowing up there, calf deep, with zero views. Per the guide's suggestion we shuttled around the valley and did the bridge loop as a day hike instead. We also stopped for a fondue lunch at the Europahütte, which was great. There were ibex around the hut and under the bridge.

We stayed below the clouds and had some low views and enjoyed a great lunch, so in our case it was worth it. But hard to say for you. I can post a picture I took of the bridge if you'd find that useful at all.

" Great suggestion neckervd - we're not too fussed about the weather either way, but is the route you suggested one of those covered by the hiking pass or is it strictly train/bus and walking?"
Sorry, I don't understand what you mean with "hiking pass"

KUONEN BRIDGE
Randa railway station is at 1409 metres/4623 ft and the bridge is at 2075 m/6800 ft.
Europe Hut is at 2264 m/7430 ft.
The bridge makes sense if you do the whole Zermatt - Gandegg Hut - Theodul Pass/Teodul Hut - Upper Cimes Blanches Pass - Ferraro Hut - Bettafurgga Pass - Olen Pass/Vigevano Hut - Crespi Calderini Hut -Tirli Pass - Macugnaga - Monte Moro Pass/Oberto-Maroli Hut - Mondelli Pass - Ofentalpass/Antigine Bivouac - Cingino Pass - Antrona Pass - Heidbodme - Saas Almagell - Saas Fee - Seetalhorn /Graechen - Europe Hut - Taeschalpe - Sunnegga - Zermatt trail or at least the last legs of it, namely from Graechen or Randa via Europa Hut to Sunnegga.
People who are interested in the bridge only cliimb up from Randa or Taesch and go then down again to one of these villages. But people who are interested in outstanding mountain panoramas prefer trails in the Zermatt area, for example the continuation of the trail from Sunnegga via Lake Stelllisee - Fluhalp - Lake Gruensee - Lake Gornergratsee - Lake Riffelsee - Glacier Garden to Lake Schwarzsee or Zermatt or a part of it, like Riffelberg - Riffelsee - Gornergrat.

Thanks neckervd - we've done some of those hikes around Zermatt on previous trips - lots of beautiful options.

I think I've answered my own question about the hiking pass - I was referring to the Aletsch+ hiking pass - unlimited travel in the Aletsch Arena. We'll probably look into that for 1-2 days of our stay here.

October 6 -

I forgot to mention that during our bus ride to Kandersteg yesterday we unexpectedly got a peek of the Desalpe festivities – a procession of cows wearing colorful flowers and huge clanging bells as they made their descent from the alpine pastures to lower ground. Had we known we’d have planned a bit better, but so it goes.

We’d bought our bus/train tickets to Grengiols via the SBB app last night – 24.50 CHF each, half fare. We forgot to utilize our guest cards for the section between Mineralquelle and Hitzboden when we booked, but 80 rappen is pretty insignificant in the Swiss scheme of things.

Before tackling the impossibly steep path from our apartment down to the bus stop (I wouldn’t want to do this in the winter!), I made one last trip back up the series of steep narrow stairs to the recycling station to unload the last of what we’d accumulated.

About this time it dawned on me that it was Sunday and most grocery stores were closed, so there’d be no food in the larder for breakfast.

We caught the 9:54 am bus to Frutigen (making a mental note to look up Blausee for next time) and connected to the train to Brig (nine minutes late, very un-Swiss-like). The train was pretty full - but emptied out at Goppenstein. Once in Brig I made a mad dash into the station shop to look for milk for tomorrow’s coffee and then it was onto another train for the short ride to Grengiols (a stop on demand station), where things got really interesting.

As we stood at the train doors, the platform whizzed by below us. When the doors opened, we were met with a four foot drop to the rocks alongside the track – no platform. Hmmmmm… not sure what else to do, we climbed down to the rocks, and saw the engineer at the front of the train with his head out the window shouting to us. Then we saw the conductor running towards us from the station – he grabbed both our suitcases (bless him) and carried them alongside the tracks back to the station, explaining that this was not normal; they’d had a big group and had a longer train than usual so the train was too long for the platform. I’m just glad we looked down before we stepped off the train:).

And then, the steep climb up to the village of Grengoils, remembering immediately that neckervd had mentioned it was 100 meters above the railway station, and understanding why the host of our Air BnB had suggested sending a car for us – nah, we said, we could walk. Little did we know.

But we survived; and are now enjoying this very nice apartment; rebuilt in 1802 after a village fire in 1799, but 100% 2019 inside.

Google tells me that Grengoils is home to some 432 people and has two restaurants and a very small grocery store (closed). The apartment is situated right above a tiny restaurant that saved us from starvation and dehydration with bratwurst, rosti, beer and wine (31.50 CHF).

We spent the rest of the afternoon poking through the tiny village, admiring all the beautiful flowers, walking through the cemetery and just soaking up the peace and quiet.

Grenoils accommodation, five nights – total cost $474.25

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/2822261...Us9hTWDqAXuLCC

To be continued...

Love the colour on that front step, Mel.:)

I have begonia envy, check this out (Vipiteno)

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...03bf372e8.jpeg

Mel~
You simply must stop! (NO, Don't!)
I am hyperventilating with swiss vacation envy!
Travelling with you vicariously...
Went to Germany this year (BACK IN APRIL), and unsure what 2020 has in store.
Last breathed swiss air in May 2018- I feel 'homesick'.

Every day of your trip is such a delight for us! I love coming here every morning to see more gorgeous photos! And what a delight that you and Adeleadian are posting at the same time! Thanks so much!

mokka - I'll breathe a little deeper on your behalf.

Adalaidean - I didn't expect to see so many beautiful flowers this time of year - our growing season was pretty much finished when we left home.

swandav - glad you're enjoying the double dose of photos.

ALETSCH HIKING PASS
Good for journeys up to the crest (Bettmerhorn, Hohfluh), but not always the best solution for other journeys as with the Half Fare Card you get half fare anyway.
https://www.aletscharena.ch/cableway.../single-trips/
RT fares from Grengiiols with Half Fare Card:
Betten Talstation: 3.00 CHF
Moerel or Fiesch 3.60 CHF
Fuergangen: 6.00 CHF

The Aletsch Pass is of no use for hikes from Grengiols via Roman Bridge to Steinmatten bus stop and further on through the Twingi Gorge to Binn and Feld (along the Walser trail to Binntal Hut - Margaroli Hut - Zum Steg). Bus departures from Feld to Binin (10 min later) - Fiesch: 15.13, 16.13, 17.13. Last departure from Binn only: 18.23.
https://www.schweizmobil.ch/en/hikin...oute-0169.html

Thank you again neckverd.

We've crunched the numbers for the hikes and the cable cars we hope to take (going to the crest twice for two separate hikes, plus the trains to get to each) and the ALETSCH HIKING PASS looks like a decent deal - our understanding is that we get a reduction off the hiking pass with our Half Fare Cards too. I think we'll go for the two day pass.

BTW we took the walk to the GOMS bridge yesterday - beautiful day. I'll post that segment later today hopefully.

October 7 –

Quiet night, until the church bells went nuts at 6:00 am. A note about noise – Grengiols may be small, but it’s not all that quiet - we’re on the main square, across from a parking lot; trucks, cars and motorcycles all pass right under our windows – and we hear people talking as they come from the grocery store, the bank, the restaurant, etc. This little town is surprisingly active, but fortunately goes to bed early.

Our first order of business was stocking the apartment, so we made a beeline to the tiny shop across the street from our apartment as soon as it opened to pick up a few basics. The tiny Information Office was also in the shop and the cashier was doing double duty; we picked her brain a little bit and went on our way.

We then walked down the big hill to the Grengiols Bahnhof (clocked it at ½ mile, 11 minutes) and caught a train to Fiesch (booked on the fly, SBB app, 3.60 CHF each half fare, return – no ticket kiosk at the Bahnhof, so not sure how one would do it otherwise?).

After a bit of wandering in Fiesch, we eventually located the Coop and finished up our shopping. Then we found the ATM, a bakery for today’s breakfast on the go (5 CHF), and a visit to the Fiesch Information Office to gather more info about the Aletsch hiking pass (much more helpful here and we formed a plan for the upcoming days).

Then we caught the next train back to Grengiols and climbed the hill back to the apartment (another ½ mile, but 17 minutes this time – UP and carrying groceries).

And then the sun came out!

Then it was back down the hill, onto the next train to Lax (2.20 CHF one way, half fare), planning to walk to Ernen. We followed the signs and found ourselves walking, up and up and up….a road.

We eventually came to Neiderernen – we saw a trail far below us, but hadn’t seen it as we walked up the road – then it clicked, I remembered seeing a sign for Neiderernen, but not knowing we’d need to go through it to reach Ernen we’d passed it by. Oops.

As we walked through Neidereren we saw more switchbacks leading up to Ernen. I’d had enough walking on that steep narrow road - so we backtracked to the closest bus stop and we waited about 20 minutes for the bus to Ernen.

As we stood waiting for the bus, what should I happen to see? The trail marker to Ernen – directly across the street! Argh.

A van sized bus full of school kids pulled up. The driver told me to sit in the passenger seat, and Bill had to stand, but it was a very short ride – 2.20 CHF each, one way, half fare, purchased via SBB app while we waited, and it saved our poor legs quite the climb.

Once in Ernen we called in at the first restaurant we found – Seiler Sport Cafe and settled in for lunch on their sun terrace. The waitress was in a foul mood, but the food and atmosphere more than made up for it. We shared the Gommer Tapas (dried meat, local cheese, bread, pickles, pickled onions, fruit and nuts – 28.50 CHF) and just soaked up the beautiful day (47 CHF with beer and wine).

After lunch we continued walking through Ernen (I loved it here), down through the pretty flower-filled village of Mühlebach and up to the church. Then it was back on the trail which led through pasture and gardens. We saw more and more people – (school holidays here in Switzerland) out enjoying the pretty day.

We called in at Café Amy’s Schafstube for an alfresco Alpengluhn (crème Cassis and Prosecco), beer and a homemade hazelnut filled croissant – (15 CHF). Amy came out and introduced herself to every customer.

We finally made our way down to the Goms Suspension Bridge (280 meters across, 92 meters high) and then up to Furgangen, where we caught the train back to Grengiols (ticket purchased via SBB app again – 3 CHF each, half fare) to watch the sun go down from our balcony.

https://www.myswitzerland.com/en-ch/...ge-near-ernen/

To be continued…

The food looks yummy! Cheese and potatoes (organic!) for an unbelievably low price (by Swiss standards at least.) Love Ernen, a very charming village. Hope you checked out the church ... beautiful.

Oh my oh my!
Just beautiful!

Ingo -

No potatoes, I think you're looking at the bread?

We visited the church in Lax, but missed Ernen. We've stopped at every church we've seen so far (and cemetery), but managed to miss Ernen somehow.

FWIW - I'm glad we didn't stay in Lax - the whole town seems to be on a busy street (as pointed out by neckervd early on), so would have been too noisy for us.

I think Ernen would have suited us well, but I suspect the bus/train situation would have been a pain for day trips, as also pointed out - by you Ingo I believe - so I think we made a good choice with Grengiols - and the apartment we found here is excellent.

The weather doesn't look promising this morning. We explored the Aletsch Arena yesterday under beautiful skies (working on that section of TR) and had hoped to go up to Riederalp today, but having second thoughts. Will check the weather forecast for tomorrow and then decide.

Maybe kartoffeln on the sign?

Thanks for the report. it's a pity that you missed the hiking trail to Ernen. It turns left at the Z'Brigg bus stop, just after the bridge across the Rhone river.

As to the first picture of post 55:
"Gommer Bio Kartoffeln" means organic potatoes from the Goms Valley (the valley where Grengiols and Ernen are). They cost CHF 1.50/kg or CHF 1.30/kg if you buy a sac of 20 kg.
Cheese from Feselalpe (in the Leuk mountains, along the endless panoramic hiking trail at quota 2000m/6500ft going from Fafleralp (at the upper end of Loetschental) via Tellialp - Weritzalp - Lauchernalp - Hockenalp - Kummenalp - Restialp - Faldumalp - FESELALP- Niwenalp - Bachalp - Oberu - Tschaermilonga - Torrentalp - Wolfstritt (wolf pass) to Leukerbad) is sold at CHF 18/kg.
If you open the fridge, you will most probably find portions of cheese of different sizes with price tags. You then just take the piece you like and put the money in a box beside.
This kind of "self service shops" can be found all over Switzerland. I always buy my apples, pears (and actually plums) in this manner, at a farm along my favoured local hiking trail, just a few miles from Berne city center. There is even a box where you can TAKE OUT your change if you have only banknotes of 10 CHF (the smallest Swiss banknote).