Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Trip Report A Swiss Alpine Autumn

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or to the lesser-traveled Arabian peninsula. Time and resources will be our guide.

forfourtravel - if you get the chance you must go to Oman. One of my favorite nearby destinations when we lived in the Middle East.

Marg and Ingo - thanks for the fruit ID - I like quince, just haven't seen it growing before. The tree was one of many on the grounds of the Stockalper Palace.

Ingo - ah, but I'm just getting started on the Nusstorte...

Yes -quinces - my favourite. Need long, slow cooking.

I'm loving your trip report, Mel

October 10 –

The skies didn’t look terribly promising, but today was our last full day in Grengiols and we had the second day of our hiking pass to use, so off we went to Fiesch on the 9:43 train. Lucky for us, the weather forecast was correct and the sun came out before we even reached Fiesch.

And here our inefficient day began – upon arrival in Fiesch we got on the waiting bus to Fieschertal…and thinking we’d made a mistake, we then got off. We walked the 10 minutes up to the Fiesheralp gondola station, soon realizing that we had indeed been on the correct bus and by not taking it we’d missed the connecting gondola to Fiescheralp…so we had to wait 25 minutes for the next one. Argghhh.

After all that, our visit to Fiescheralp was rather anti-climactic. It was sleepy, cold and windy, the views weren’t quite what we’d hoped for and the station was a full on construction zone (the Eggishorn gondola is currently closed and my understanding is that it’s being replaced). There were a few hotels and restaurants, but not much of interest.

On the way back down, the gondola stopped mid-air twice, once completely enveloped in cloud – and we dangled there, worried that we’d miss the next train. As soon as we got back to the station, we, and a few others, made a mad dash to the Bahnhof to catch the 11:29 train to Mörel (no connecting bus this time). We made it with two minutes to spare.

Once in Mörel, we took the gondola to Riederalp Mitte (there are two gondolas, the other goes to Riederalp West) and walked through very quiet Riederalp to the Moosfluh gondola station, and then went up to the top (2,333 m).

Moosfluh was cold and windy; the overlooks were slippery with deep mud, but the views were incredible. We’d hoped to have lunch up here, but there wasn’t a restaurant, just a snack shed…well, technically, a retired cable car turned into a snack shed.

NOTE: There is a restaurant between Riederalp and Moosfluh, but it didn’t look easy to reach.

We eventually returned to sleepy Riederalp hoping to find a place for lunch; skeptical as prospects didn’t look good on our first pass through.

Luckily, we found the Walliser Spycher Hotel Restaurant open for business. The waitress told us the cook spoke English, and sent him out to take our order.

We both ordered from the Tagesteller menu – a meat sauce on noodles for Bill, house made Spätzle with vegetables for me, both very good (56 CHF each with one beer and one glass of wine).

When we left, the cook came out and told us it was nice to hear English ‘up here’, which we took as a reference to the large Asian tour groups we’d seen here and on the Bettmerhorn (either that or he was just chuffed that we’d both cleaned our plates).

After lunch we walked towards Riederalp West and climbed up to Riederfurka - a steep rocky walk – and then up to Villa Cassel, which is under renovation until 2020. There’s a one hour loop trail that we would have liked to walk, but our inefficient start was catching up to us – the day was disappearing and our energy was fading.

So instead, we soaked up the wonderful views and had a drink on the sun terrace of the self-service drinks kiosk.

Note: We could see part of the trail that runs from Riederalp to Belalp via the Aletschji - Grünsee suspension bridge from up here - as tempting as it is, I sincerely doubt I could handle that one, even if I had the five hours needed to do it.

We returned to Riederalp via that steep rocky path and took the Riederalp West gondola (two stages, you can also get off at Ried-Mörel) but we stayed on it for the entire journey back to Mörel.

We turned in our hiking passes – got our 5 CHF each refund and waited 30 minutes for the train back to Grengiols.

Then it was back up the steep hill to our Grengiols apartment one last time.

To be continued…

Thank you! For continuing to feed us wonderful nuggets of Switzerland...

Thanks for tagging along mokka4!

Love the name ‘Moosfluh’ and your photos are divine, adding that to my bucket list :)

Thanks for report and pictures.
I was just in the area yesterday (train and gondola Bern dp 8.06 - Riederalp WEST ar 9.56), had a coffee in the always open restaurant a few steps from the gondola station and went then first to Riederfurka (where I saw that the restaurant offers even sunbeds with Matterhorn view), continued then through the Aletsch Forest to Moosfluh (too much people IMO), then all along/above Aletsch Glacier to Lake Marjelen and finally through the tunnel to Fiescheralp, by gondola to Fiesch (arriving just 5 minutes before the train's departure!) and back by train to Bern ar 19.54).
As to your adventure: I suppose it might have been easier to walk from Fiescheralp to Wurzenbord (not more than 1 hr), to go down by gondola and to continue on foot along Bettmersee and Goppisbergeralp to Blausee (not more than 1 hr) and finally to Moosfluh (another 30 min).
But at which place are you now, Melnq?

neckervd -

You've just proven what we've been thinking the whole time - that the Swiss know how to time things much better than we inefficient tourists do! We're always the ones sitting at the station long before the locals turn up, or arriving just after the gondola has left. We do our research, but tend to get distracted or waylaid en route. But, we're on holiday, so schedules sort of go by the wayside.

We're in Flims right now - here until Wednesday morning. We had a wonderfully inefficient day today, watching a cow beauty contest in Laax, eating at our favorite Ilanz establishment and taking the trip up to Vals, just because we wanted to see it again in a different season.

Tomorrow, Bargas.

And FWIW, Bill wanted to do the walk from Wurzenbord to Fiescheralp the first day, but I didn't listen...

neckervd -

Do you happen to know if there are walks at Zervreila - above Vals? Or how far a walk from the bus stop to the reservoir?

The Zervreila bus stop is less than half a mile (on a road) from the dam. All buses leaving Ilanz between 8.35 and 15.35 go up to the dam. They leave the Zervreila stop fo Ilanz at 10.05, 12.05, 15.05, 16.05, 17.05.
There is a small about 4 miles long road (closed to vehicles) from the bus stop up to the end of the lake.
There are also rather strenuous paths from the bus stop to Lake Guraletsch (2000 ft higher) and from the end of the lake to Lenta Hut and Zapport Hut, both belonging to the Swiss Alpine Club.
Hikes above Flims (from the gondola stations Naraus, Grauberg and Saint John's Rock are more panoramic and much easier, however.
Have a look at lake Cauma and the Ruinaulta Gorge viewpoint Con
https://www.myswitzerland.com/en-ch/...e-gorge-route/
or visit the menhirs of Falera if you are interested in.
https://www.graubuenden.ch/en/explor.../parc-la-mutta

Thanks again neckervd.

We've walked to Conn a few times on previous trips and have also walked through the gorge from Ilanz to Versam Safien - during a heat wave no less. It was memorable to say the least.

Bill wants to walk from Conn down to Versam Safien, but I'm a bit worried about how steep it might be. Have you walked this? How is the terrain?

October 11 –

Sunshine!

We tidied the apartment, dropped off the last of our recycling and headed down the long Grengiols hill one final time; much easier going down with luggage than coming up (I was tempted to let my suitcase roll down ahead of me and meet it at the bottom, but I resisted).

We’d purchased a Super Saver Ticket online before we left home – 24.50 CHF each with Half Fare Card, train specific – 10:43 am departure from Grengiols via Andermatt, Disentis and Reichenau-Tamins with bus from Tamins Post to Flims Dorf (more on that bit later).

The train going towards Andermatt and the train going towards Brig arrived at the same time – again – so a train was between us and the train we needed – we knew from the past few days that this has a way of working out – we just waited for the train to Brig to leave, and hoped our train would wait for us - it did.

We’d been riding the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn throughout our stay in Grengiols. Today our journey took us through the 15.4 km Furkatunnel, which links Oberwald with Realp – that’s one long tunnel – we were in the dark for a long time.

All went to plan until we arrived at Reichenau-Tamins…a station we were unfamiliar with - we walked it from end to end looking for the bus stop – we walked up the street - no bus stop, no signs, no nothing.

Bill finally did the unheard of and went inside the Bahnhof restaurant and…wait for it…asked for assistance.

The SBB app indicated the bus stop was a four minute walk from the Bahnhof…ah…no. We were told to climb the hill (of course) cross the river and turn right, then left then right again, and we’d find the Tamins Post in 10 Swiss minutes. By now, we’d spent a good 15 minutes of our 27 minute connection time trying to find the bus stop - so we hightailed it up the hill dragging luggage – searching – and hoping we’d find the Tamins Post in time for our bus, which according to our watches we’d already missed…meaning we’d have to wait an hour for the next one, turning our six hour travel day into a seven hour travel day.

Hot, bothered and unhappy, we finally found the bus stop…and as luck would have it, the bus was running late! We made it!

Some 20 minutes later, we arrived at Flims Dorf.

We’d spent a week in Flims in late November last year so we're familiar with it; we’d booked the same Air BnB (five nights, USD $549.46).

Flims is much busier than the last time we were here – businesses are actually open, pedestrians are out and about enjoying the brilliant sunshine…and we're surprised at how warm it is.

We got settled and then walked back up the hill (a recurring theme) and over to the COOP to pick up provisions. The evening was spent catching up on laundry. Exciting stuff.

To be continued…

October 12 –

As I mentioned previously, we usually visit Switzerland in the winter. There are definitely some advantages to visiting in October though – longer days, most gondolas still operational, flowers galore, fall color, no need to plan meals based on what restaurant might be open, considerably less clothing to deal with…and best of all – no need for traction cleats!

But there are a few disadvantages too, at least from our perspective – higher accommodation rates, more people, busier trains and buses, more kids (school holidays), busy restaurant sun terraces, more bugs – lots more – and of course almost too warm weather – for us anyway - we much prefer hiking when it’s cool – and I think we’d burn up in some of these apartments.

That said today was absolutely beautiful. Perfect weather for a cow beauty pageant; how could we resist?

After breakfast we walked up to the Visitor’s Center for some maps and info, and then walked to Laax to witness this:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7893d8b792.jpg

The walk took about an hour - just under three miles – a paved path runs alongside the road and then cuts through a small section of forest and countryside - it’s not a particularly scenic walk. There’s a shuttle, free with guest card, but we chose to walk.

The Miss Arena Alva event began at 10 - and it was a hoot. Cows were led (many unwillingly) into an arena accompanied by polka music. They were judged…on what I have no idea. Udders? Grooming? I assume the event was similar to an American 4-H competition.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...20ed8171ad.jpg
Cow contest, Laax
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1babf12136.jpg
Cow contest, Laax

Vendors were selling handicrafts, food, wine, clothing, sports gear, etc. Kids were jumping on trampolines, riding scooters, playing in hay and just having a grand old time.

And there were alphorns!

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ca2d0331a7.jpg
Laax

We then caught the free shuttle from the Laax Talistation to Lax GR Posta and connected with the 411 bus to Ilanz via Sagogn (I rather like the drive through Sagogn; it’s a bit of a thrill ride along a very narrow winding road and through tight corners, inches from buildings - 2.60 CHF each, half fare.)

The whole point of this exercise was to reach Restaurant Obertor in Ilanz in time for lunch – home to some of the best Bizochels we’ve ever tucked a fork into - we discovered this little gem when staying in Ilanz a few years ago.

We weren’t disappointed – we both had the Bizochels Sursilvans – heaven on a plate - 62 CHF with one glass of wine each - worth every franc and calorie.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4ebb082a35.jpg
Bizochels Sursilvans

After lunch we walked to the nearest bus stop and caught the bus to Vals - where the 4.4 mile hike to Hängela-Hütte in June 2017 damn near killed my knee - 6.50 CHF each, half fare. I love the drive to Vals – it’s beautiful – there’s quite a bit of road and bridge construction going on at the moment so it was slow going.

We considered going to Zervreila, which we’d missed last time as the road was closed, but we didn’t know enough about it to make an informed decision, so we took a pass.

Upon arrival in Vals, we followed the path along the river and up to the Vals Talistation - beautifully green – flowers in bloom everywhere – and a heck of a lot busier than last time we were here – lots of people were out and about, walking, biking and many on scooters coming down from a hotel above town. And the Vals Therme appeared to be hopping.

We visited the church and cemetery and then sat on the sun terrace of Hotel Alpina where I tried my first Aperol Spritz – Aperol, prosecco, Valser (Swiss mineral water from the mineral springs in Vals, 8.50 CHF) – with a copper straw! (neckervd – please enlighten us about all the copper in Switzerland – copper is very expensive where we come from, but we see it everywhere in Switzerland). The terrace was a bit pungent - cigarette smoke on one side, streaks of cow poo on the other. We didn’t linger.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c335f26951.jpg
Vals
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c758a11c80.jpg
Vals
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e7a6048ed2.jpg
Vals
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...610e6812aa.jpg
Vals
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01ed52c0c2.jpg
Vals
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...038fab08dd.jpg
Vals
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...97560cd5a2.jpg
Vals
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6973f325b.jpg
Vals
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bfca587b7c.jpg
Vals

Then it was back on the bus to Flims, with a change in Ilanz and a change in Laax – booked via SBB app – 10.10 CHF each, half fare.

A beauty of a day.

To be continued…

Fantastic day! That cow contest is indeed a hoot! And what about Capuns??

Why didn't you take the chair lift from Vals up, walked (flat) to Zervreila reservoir bus stop and took the bus back?

Hi Ingo -

The chairlift wasn't moving, we thought it was closed. Does it go to Zervreila?

The days are just too short to fit everything in - so much time is lost getting to and from places - public transport is wonderful, but somewhat limiting as we're at the mercy of the schedules, so time consuming.

Never fear, Capuns are on our list.

Mel - it's gondola, not chair lift, sorry. Yes, it is still in operation, always ten minutes after the bus arrives. The gondola goes up to Gadastatt, from where it is a quite short walk to Zervreila. See the panoramic summer map here.

Cannot wait to read about Capuns ;-)

Mel, tracking your route on a map, you keep introducing new regions to me...

On copper, I kept photographing the copper roofing for my husband, can’t believe it (at a house build here even the copper piping is at great risk of being stolen)

So loving your report...so many small villages and corners that you take us to, so very wonderful!

Also really like the comparison of Fall vs. Winter travel. I used to travel in winter only to ski (though I did hike around Zermatt when I found the skiing too mind-numbingly cold), so it's interesting to see the comparison of two seasons of hiking. Germany doesn't clear as many hiking trails in winter, so the options in my neighborhood are fewer than in Switzerland. I do love the photos of your winter hikes though.

Oh...I attended a sheep judging contest here in Garmisch....

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b87d0e3b00.jpg
The guy in the long black coat is the judge
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...82449d9857.jpg

I was also interested to see lots of mugs of beer all over, including the judge's table... and yes it was about 9 a.m. Anyway, love events like this!

s