Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Trip Report A Swiss Alpine Autumn

Fodor's Travel Talk Forums (https://www.fodors.com/community/)

- Europe (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/)

- - A Swiss Alpine Autumn (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/a-swiss-alpine-autumn-1672418/)

I am jumping on the gondola and joining in on your adventure. Your pictures are lovely and I enjoy reading about your trip.

I am loving your mountain photos; the Smokies are lovely, but just not the same. Just curious, what inspires your (seemingly regular) visits to Switzerland? We loved the mountains in Austria and could never really get into visiting our neighbor.

Thanks for tuning in! Thought I'd try to post real time for a change.

Nelson - I hope there's a trip report in the making?

fourfortravel - yes, we've been visiting Switzerland on a pretty regular basis since the mid-90's.

We've been asked that same question by a few Swiss - it's hard to explain.

We live in the mountains of CO, but it's just not the same. Sure, we've got the elevation, but the mountains here in Switzerland are glacially cut and steep - the valleys impossibly deep, the landscape a glorious green.

We love the civilized way of hiking - taking a gondola up a steep mountain and then hiking to a beautiful bergrestaurant with lovely food and fabulous views - sitting on a sun terrace - preferably in winter - taking it all in and then setting out to hike some more.

It's the complete opposite of what's on offer at ski resorts in CO - we have very little public transportation, uninspired mass produced crappola in a handful of ski areas, a complete lack of groomed winter walking trails, etc. Ski resorts are for skiing. Sledging is practically unheard of. As is taking a cable car up simply for the views. Bergrestaurant with wine cellar? Ha!

We love the Swiss respect for the environment, the organization, the abundance of small, quiet villages, and the natural beauty around every corner.

Switzerland has always spoken to us. It appeals to our sense of order, our need for calm and our insatiable hunger for the outdoors.

October 4 –

We stepped outside our apartment door, walked about 25 feet…and the skies opened. So, it was back into the apartment to put on our waterproof pants. We then climbed the steep meadow behind the apartment up to the village – trading stairs and private gardens for a sheep poop minefield.

Adelboden was sleepy. The only evidence of yesterday’s festivities an abandoned beer mug sitting on a curb.

We popped into the church – eerily dark and vacant – startled when we suddenly heard organ music coming from the depths of the church. A woman was high above, practicing in the dark. We admired the stained glass windows Ingo had mentioned, struggled to find the door, and were on our way.

We walked all the way through town and continued up to Restaurant Hotel Schermtanne for lunch (~90 minutes from Adelboden); the place was hopping.

As we settled in, the couple next to us zeroed in on our English and offered to help us with the menu if needed, a kind gesture. When I asked the waiter what the house made soup was, both he and the couple struggled to find the word they were looking for.

They settled on “small grain” which I assumed meant barley, although when I said "Gerstensuppe" I was met with blank looks (I’m sure my pitiful pronunciation had nothing to do with it!). Sure enough the nameless soup was one of my Swiss favorites. Barley soup, Rosti mit speck, a glass of wine each and we were set (41 CHF).

We found the trail we’d missed on the walk in, and returned to Adelboden via the path alongside the river, which as luck would have it put us right at the cemetery. I have a thing for Swiss cemeteries. They're gorgeous no matter the time of year.

Then it was back to the apartment to figure out how to work the washing machine – always a challenge.

Later in the afternoon we climbed back up to the village to try the goods at Bäckerei Haueter. I’d never tried Swiss Vermicelles and figured it was high time I did – cooked chestnuts pureed with sugar, vanilla, milk or butter and pressed through a perforated plate, piled high on a meringue base and topped with whipped cream. Hmmmm….let’s just say that once was enough. No complaints about the house made hot chocolate though.

To be continued…

Had Vermicelles once in Sent, a much bigger portion than yours, and once was more than enough ;-) Ahh, the hot chocolate ... Yum! Glad you got your barley soup in Bernese Oberland, too.

Beautiful pictures as usual.

Thanks fro the report.
Thursday was nice. I hiked in the mountains of Leuk, at altitudes of some 2400 metres (7900 ft). Nothing but sun until 6pm and a snow line around 2800 metres (9200 ft).
But todayy, the only decent thing one can do from Adelboden is to go to sunny Piedmont:
Adelboden dp 7.52 - Domodossola ar 9.54 (change from bus to train at Frutigen) and to enjoy the big Saturday marked of this town, may be followed by a bus ride (Domo dp 11.30) to the mountain village of Bognanco San Lorenzo and a hike back along the sunny trail via Monsignore - Monteossolano.
....or a train ride to Lake Maggiore, Domodssola dp 11.58 - Stresa ar 12.34

I would probably head to Thun, has plenty to do also in the rain. Lots of castles in town and along the lake, Romanesque churches, a bit shopping, hot chocolate ...

We love the Swiss respect for the environment, the organization, the abundance of small, quiet villages, and the natural beauty around every corner.

Switzerland has always spoken to us. It appeals to our sense of order, our need for calm and our insatiable hunger for the outdoors.

Everything we loved about Austria, too. Except at lower prices. Though the Smoky Mountains don't quite compare to the Austrian Alps, it does feel good to "Climb Every Mountain" (pun intended) on our weekends. :lol:

mel, your description of why you love Switzerland resonated with me as well, and was about to quote the same two sentences that fourfortravel quoted in the above post. Sure we have big mountains here in Colorado - some corners of RMNP as wild and beautiful as anywhere I've seen - but it's not the same as sitting down to a nice meal and drink in a Swiss mountain inn or hut surrounded by that scenery. Nicely written.

I'll try to cobble together a short TR and post some photos from my trip, but it will be a few weeks out before I can hope to get to it. Meanwhile it will be fun following you and Adelaidean around the Alps. Thanks.

We love Switzerland for the same reasons. The only downside is the expense.

I hear you, Mel, love Switzerland too.

And the quiet villages where hikers go to bed at 9 pm :)
Love the tranquility. Haven’t had any inconsiderate hotel guests jabbering late at night or banging doors in Switzerland. They’re too tired, LOL.

Fourfortravel, might get you to create me an Austrian mountains/ lakes itinerary one day.

neckervd - just now saw your post! Where were you when I needed you?:)

October 5 –

Last night when I went online to find the name of the river we’d walked alongside yesterday, I stumbled upon the privately owned Hängebrüggbeizli, one of Europe’s longest suspension bridges – 153 meters high and 38 meters above the Engstlige – and not far from Adelboden.

https://www.adelboden.ch/en/s/suspension-bridge

We had a plan.

So this morning we walked down to the Mineralquelle bus stop below our apartment to catch the #230 bus. As we stood there waiting, the bus went sailing on by – completely full. The driver made a hand gesture that looked an L – (loser?) made with extended thumb and forefinger. The other people waiting didn’t seem bothered, and we assumed that they were either waiting for a different bus, or the gesture was Swiss for “another bus is coming”. Sure enough, a few minutes later an empty bus came by and we were on our way (5.20 CHF each with guest card and Half Fare Card).

We got off the bus at Holstaden and set across the bridge (1 CHF per person via honesty box, or purchase of a beverage at the restaurant across the bridge – we did both - plus some). The bridge and are owned by the same family who also run a small farm and offer eggs for sale.

What a great little find! We settled in at a picnic table and ordered a 5 dl bottle of Johannisberg (Sylvaner) Riesling (19 CHF). We were told they’d be catering for a group of 10 in a few minutes, but were offered the last two seats inside a small warming hut reserved for the group.

It was just too warm inside, so we retreated to an outdoor table. As we sat and sipped, we were entertained by the resident ‘killer’, a cat who captured a tiny mouse, and once bored, moved on to a slug, leaving both disabled, but still alive.

As platters of food passed by our table, I decided further investigation was in order. I went back to the tiny food/drinks shed and asked the young woman about what we’d seen go by…locally made cheese, regional dried meats and house made bread - and promptly ordered a platter for two. An excellent idea indeed (28 CHF).

We finally dragged ourselves away and followed the pretty 3+ mile ‘sculpture trail’ down to Fruitgen – just in time for the skies to open. The path follows the river, leads past a picnic and camping area and is dotted with various wood sculptures.

Once in Fruitigen we continued walking to the Bahnhof, egged on by the sudden burst of sunshine, thinking we might head to Kandersteg and take the Luftseilbahn Allmenalp.

Bill had gone up to the Allmendalp two years ago when we’d based in Kandersteg for several nights, but I had missed out, thanks to a problematic knee.

The once hourly train to Kandersteg arrived just as we reached the ticket machine; there was no way we were going to make it, but we noticed that a bus was leaving two minutes later, so we bought a ticket, located the bus and hopped on board for the 30 minute ride to the Kandersteg Bahnhof (5.60 CHF each with Half Fare Card).

Naturally by the time we reached Kandersteg the sun had disappeared again, so instead of going up to the Allmenalp, we poked through town, stumbled upon a gorgeous garden, explored a wanderweg and added another 3.5 miles to our daily total – and then headed to the Hotel Adler bar for some local Pinot Noir.

We were greeted with a big “Hello”. When I asked our waitress if we just screamed “tourist”, she explained that she only spoke English and was finding German hard to learn (I can relate to that). She was from Hungry (so obviously spoke Hungarian as well), and was on day four of her winter work contract in Kandersteg. Note: On our last stay in Kandersteg everyone we met in the hospitality industry was from Portugal.

After a chat and some pretty good Pinot, we called it a day – we walked back to the Bahnhof and returned to Adelboden on the 4:58 bus (9.30 CHF each with Half Fare Card – Adelboden guest card covered the section between Hirzboden and Mineralquelle – journey took about an hour with a short stop in Fruitigen).

To be continued…

ROPE BRIDGES
The suspension bridge starting at the valley station of the Fuergangen - Bellwald cableway (20 min by cog wheel train from Grengiols) is much longer.
https://www.myswitzerland.com/en-ch/...ge-near-ernen/
The Aspi - Itter suspension bridge, some 3 miles north of the mountain station of the Fuergangen - Bellwald cableway is as long as the Hostalde bridge at Frutigen, but much more spectacular.
Aspi-Titter Hängebrücke

Other popular suspension bridges in Switzerland:
Aletschji Bridge: Riederalp - Belalp trail (Aletsch Glacier area), 407 ft long
Charles Kuonen bridge, above Taesch (Zermatt Valley), 1621 feet long
Trift Bridge (Oberhasli/Meiringen area), 558 ft long
Lauitobel Bridge, mountain station of the revolving gondola Sattel - Hochstuckli (Voralpen Express line), 1227 feet long
Gummischlucht Bridge, Sigriswil (Lake Thun), 1111 ft long
Ossone Bridge, Val d'Herens (Sion area), 436 ft long
Carasc Bridge, Vineyards trail (Belllinzona area), 886 ft long
Leitereweideni Bridge, close to the former spa of Weissenburg (Simmental), 364 ft long
Traversinersteg: kind of suspended bridge with stairs where the southern end is 72 ft higher than the northern one,Viamala Gorge, close to Zillis, 200 ft long

Fair enough neckervd, I was merely quoting the literature. I've just researched the Kuonen Bridge and I think we'll give that one a pass - as much as I'd like to see it, the hike to get there might be a bit much for my decrepit knees.

And you were right about the walk up to the village of Grengoils - not that I doubted you, but it wasn't fun at all with luggage! We arrived in Grengoils just this afternoon.

The descent from Kuonen Bridge is the hell for all people with knee problems.

But the 3-4 miles hike from Lax or Fiesch Feriendorf via Aernerfeld - Ernen - to Muehlebach (both unspoiled villages) and over the suspension bridge to Fuergangen railway station could be a good solution if the weather doesn't allow trips to the glacier area.

The weather should get better tomorrow afternoon, however.
https://www.meteoswiss.admin.ch/home.html?tab=overview
If the forecast is correct, a trip to the Aletsch glacier area should be possible.
Last departure of the gondolas down to the valley:
Moosfluh: 16.30
Bettmerhorn: 16.30
Fiescheralp: 18.10
Bettmeralp: 22.50
Riederalp West:: 20.03
Riederalp Mitte: 21.03
After 10pm, the trains Brig - Moerel - Betten - Grengiols - Fiesch may be replaced by bus

Great suggestion neckervd - we're not too fussed about the weather either way, but is the route you suggested one of those covered by the hiking pass or is it strictly train/bus and walking?

Mel, we crossed the Kuonen Bridge on my trip last month. From the Randa train station to the bridge in U.S. units is about 1.5 miles, and 2,100 feet of climbing. From the south it's a bit longer, maybe 2 miles with the same climb, so not as steep. That's where most day hikers were coming from. A pleasant forest walk with great views if it's clear - it wasn't for us. Anyway FWI, have a great trip. Good luck with the weather!

Edit: Cross posting, sorry...