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Paragkash Apr 17th, 2020 01:51 PM

A 5 weeks’ Family Road Trip through French Countryside-May-June 2015
 
“Viola” (Waa-La)-here it is!!!
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With triple exclamation marks; said my wife when she held my travel diary of my Road trip through countryside France. I had lost it somewhere soon after we came back from our dream adventure in June 2015. She got it while doing the house cleaning. It was stuck in the space between 2 drawers. I had searched all possible places frantically, but in vein. I was so happy to get it back, when I least expected it. I had lost hope. I started reading it and it was re-living all the golden moments, as if it happened yesterday. I decided to convert my travel notes into a travelogue in the Lock-down period in April 2020. “Viola”(Waa-lah)is the word we heard the most in our trip and I had thought that this should be the most apt name of my French travel memoirs, as that’s what France did to us- “to suggest an appearance as if by magic” as per Merriam Webster Dictionary.I am posting it after 4.5 years after my trip, but my memory is fresh. This would be my 1st trip report and also would probably be the 1st posted after 4 years of travel. Please pardon me if I make mistakes. I don't even know if one can post photos on the trip report on Fodors. I used to read trip reports with links to other sites for photos. I guess that has changed. will try some. Some details may be trivial, but may help people planning a road trip and also writing so that we can re-live those wonderful moments. Too bad, real life always has to intervene right after a trip, when we're all wanting to take it easy and bask in the memories.
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Every road tells a story. We wanted to explore many of them.
.
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When our flight took off from Mumbai, I was a bit anxious, excited and nervous at the same time.

This was our most coveted, ambitious and longest tour till date. 37 days road trip through French countryside. I had been dreaming of it for last one and a half tear. Spending quality time with the family on a road trip and in one of the most beautiful places, was so exciting and the biggest plus.

ABOUT US:

We are a family bitten by travel bug. My Wife Poonam, 47 and me, 48 years, both architects from Mumbai. My elder daughter Priyanka, 21 is studying medicine 2nd year and will be a doctor in next 2 years. My younger daughter Poorva, 19 is studying architecture 1st year. We have been traveling within India and abroad and have visited 28 countries in Asia, America, Africa and Europe till now. We love Architecture, culture, nature, small villages, picturesque routes, architectural marvels.,
I always research well, plan meticulously and we travel on our own and have achieved an equilibrium within us, between frantic sightseeing and relaxing. Europe remains our most favourite place. We used to travel by Eurail earlier. Since 2010, we have started renting a car for most parts of our trip and fly in between. Driving abroad and that too a left-hand drive car was a big mental block. Overcoming that has created a whole lot of opportunities for us. I also like to live like the locals, buy grocery at local stores, interact with them and be temporary residents of the place. All of it is not possible everywhere. But I look forward to such holidays

After visiting several countries in various continents, I have come to a conclusion that it’s more rewarding to travel to our favourite places, rather than travelling to new countries to get more stamps on our passports.

We used to plan our trips based on the travel brochures of Thomas Cook et al. Have done a “9 West European countries in 35 days” and “8 countries 17 days” Eurail trip to Scandinavia and Eastern Europe. After doing the orientation we became more matured and ambitious and started visiting 2 countries in a 21 to 30 days. This was a much more rewarding experience.

My destination is the journey itself. Small villages and beautiful places on the way on the road trip. This I find is the best way of family bonding. I did not want to leave a lot of France unseen and for the next trip as I do not know if I will come back to France

Our last travel was a 33 days trip to USA and Canada, in 2013, but that was only Poonam and I. Our last family trip together was way back 5 years ago in 2010. Last 5 years were full of rigorous studies for both my daughters as these were the career deciding years. They were also very taxing for us. Both of them could secure admissions in their choice of courses in flying colours. This was the time to reward ourselves.
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WHY FRANCE:

Art and architecture, Cultural and historical heritage sites, Prehistoric caves, Religious places, Geological wonders, picturesque villages trails, beautiful Vineyards, Charming towns, Grand cities, Fairy-tale castles, Scenic landscapes, Alpine meadows and snow-capped peaks, beautiful lakes, azure blue coastline, beautiful beaches, floral carpets, fruits, delicious food, Wine tasting, Michelin Star restaurants, great culture and warm people, wonderful climate with 300 days of sunshine; France has it all.

This was one trip which I had in mind since a long time but kept postponing it because of my ignorance. We have seen Italy, Switzerland, Austria, Germany, Greece, Spain in small parts in 3 or 4 trips to each of them. Had never studied France much and didn’t know much beyond Paris and Nice. Had been to Paris twice earlier. I always wanted to visit all those Chateaux and Cathedrals that we studied in History of Architecture. The images that captured my fancy were the Lavender fields, picturesque Mont Saint Michel and the magnificent Chateau de Chambord. One thing I was sure about was that I wanted to see the France beyond the tour brochures and off the beaten track.

PLANNING:

Finalizing the itinerary for France was the biggest problem. Such a big and diverse country which has so much to offer in all respects. I started doing my research one and a half year before our travel date.

This for me is the most interesting part of travelling. Sometimes the study and anticipation is even more interesting than the actual travel. I started my planning almost 18 months ago, in Jan 2014. After a bit of web searching, I posted my question on Fodors Forum in Feb. 14 asking suggestions about a 3 weeks itinerary for a perfect road trip in France. It was only a wish list and got some valuable suggestions along with a lot of strong criticism for my ignorance and silly and superfast itinerary. That gave me an inspiration and a certain direction. I did a lot of research and posted another question on Forum for a 30 days Itinerary help. As I studied more, even more fascinating places came up and the choices became harder. I had based my itinerary loosely on Rick Steve’s 21 days itinerary. Added some more days to it to experience the places and their culture. Original plan was to witness Lavender bloom in late June early July. Getting such a big holiday from my work and also from my daughters’ colleges was difficult. May and 1st 10 days of June are holidays for the colleges in India. So we dropped the idea of lavender bloom and decided to travel in mid-May. One main reason also was the excessive heat in Europe in June. It becomes intolerable even for people like us living in hot climate. The more I studied, the more I realized
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That's the best part of the trip..planning, sketching, writing, studying culture, history, architecture.
that I needed minimum 30 days, which finally became 37 days. This was going to be my longest and most ambitious travel plan. Also the longest time I rented the car for.

I have been devoting a lot of time on studying places and deciding the perfect itinerary. Have almost reached a conclusion that there is nothing that is perfect and no one can see it all even if one wants to make a number of visits in a lifetime.”
There is also a fear of Deja Vu factor after a while, which we call as ABC syndrome.. Another Bloody Castle/ Church. So we zeroed in on places to stay for 3 to 4 nights and have listed attractions as per priority. Didn’t want to see more than 2 to 3 places a day. Whatever I could see and absorb. Didn’t want to miss the fun while trying to execute a perfect plan. Journey is the destination in itself.


France has an extremely well-developed tourism network. They have designated places like

a, les-plus-beaux-villages-Beatiful villages with history and character and those that have population less than 1000 people./ b.Historical Monuments / c.Natural site / d.Conservation area / e.Cities Art and History / f,Small Towns of Character /g.villages in Bloom- Where they give star rating to the villages that have the best and flowers. 4 flowers is the maximum rating./h. Castles/ i. Religious sites./ j. Geological wonders./ k. Themed scenic routes./ l. Palaces/ m. Big cities

One can select an area and cover the places of interest in a route. It’s a problem of plenty.

1st step was to decide a rough itinerary and to decide the entry and exit points and number of days. We had planned to rent a car as we landed, take a route through our desired destinations to form a circular loop and drop it back after the trip and see Paris on foot and with public transport. The original plan was anticlockwise almost circular route starting from Paris and ending in Paris. Eventually we reversed it to a clockwise loop. We had ruled out an open jaw ticket option as we wanted to cover all the possible locations. I tried to keep distance between 2 bases limited to max 300 km/200 miles, so that I have time to see places on the way. Stu Dudley's(He helped a lot in planning on Fodors) favourite punch line..
“Spend more time being there and less time getting there”


Next was to fine tune the itinerary. This was the toughest part of the entire planning. There is so much to see in every province. What to leave and what to see was a big dilemma. I was charged up now. Used to spend most of my free time reading, surfing internet, interacting on travel forum. Fodors Forum was my best Guru. I followed 4+1+4+1 theory. Stay at one place for 4 days and do day trips to see places around. Take an overnight break for 1 day at an interesting destination to break a long journey to another enchanting place for 4 nights. This worked very well for us. I wanted to see the beautiful countryside, quaint villages, scenic and breath-taking drives. Deliberately avoided staying at big cities except Paris and Nice. I also made a Pictorial Power Point Presentation of our tour itinerary for my family and myself.
OUR FINAL ITINERARY:
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CHAMPAGNE 1 N/1D

DAY 1 –Land at CDG, Rent a car n drive to Eperney 1 N

ALSACE- 4 N-3D


Day 2 -Chamapgne route and wine tasting
Drive to Alsace via chalons and Nancy
Beblenheim- Alscae - 4 n

Day 4,5,6 Strasbourg, Konigsberg castle,
Wine route, Colmar
Black forest- lake Titisee

SWITZERLAND- 1 N-2 D


Day 7 -Drive to Switzerland- stay at Krattigen- 1 N
Spiez, Lake Thun, Kandersteg, Lauterbrunnen

RHONE ALPS- 3N/ 2 D


Day 8 -Drive to Doussard- (Lake Annecy)- 3 N
enroute visit Gstaadt and Saanen
plus Yvoire Castle

Day 10. 11 Chamonix, Mont Blanc, Megeve
Lake Annecy, Menthon palace

FRENCH RIVIERA- 5N/4D


Day 12-Drive to Juan Les Pins - 5 N
via "Napolean Route" Grenoble to Gap etc

Day 13, 14, 15, 16 Nice
Eze and menton
Grasse perfume factory
St Tropez, Antebes

PROVENCE 4N/3D

Day 15 -Drive to St Andiol ( Near St. Remy)- 4 N
En route- see Cassis and Marselles
15, 16,17 Gordes, Rossilion ect.

CARCASSONE (
Languedoc-Roussillon) 1N

Day 20-Drive from St Andiol to Carcassone

DORDOGNE (
Aquitaine) 3N/ 2D

Day 21 -Drive to Beynac, via Cahors, Monpazier etc

22,23 Boat Trip at Gogec

SALERS- (
Midi-Pyrenees- Lot )1 N

Day 24 -Drive to Salers - 1 N
Rocamadur, Padirac etc

MASSIF CENTRAL- 1 N


Day 25 Drive to Le Puy – (2 N Planned Originally)
en route- visit some villages
26 Ley Puy Local

LOIRE VALLEY (EAST) 4 N/3 D


Day 26- Drive to Loire vally (Onzain) - 3 N
and see Chambord in d even.
28, 29 Chenoncea and Cheverny, Chaumont
Blois, Amboise
LOIRE VALLEY (W) -1N/1D


28 -Drive to Loire West- near Saumur- 1 N
Visit some more chateau

NORMANDY/BRITNEY- 2 N


Day 29 -Drive to MSM- 2 N
En route- See Fogere's
30 See MSM- Drive to Dinan and back to Mont saint Michel

VERSAILES- 1N


Drive to Versailes
Paris- 4N/ 4D


Day 32

Drive to CDG Paris- drop the car- 4 N
34,35,36 Paris

Day 37 Return to Mumbai by flight



REFERENCES & BOOKS & WEBSITES:

Books I referred are

France DK Eyewitness Guide- Has the best pictorial details and notes. Has architectural details, cross section of important structures, Birds eye view of historical precincts with a walking tour route and much more.

France Lonely planet Guide: It has important details and highlights about regions, sights, local transportation, maps etc. These two books together make the best combination guide.

Michelin Road Maps: I ordered 2 books online from Amazon.com USA. One was a big fat detailed book and a small handbook. This had fantastic maps in detail. Probably the best maps available. Frankly, with the great navigation on phone, we didn’t need this much.

Websites:

https://fr.wikipedia.org/

https://www.les-plus-beaux-villages-de-france.org/fr/

Frommers.com for maps of Walking tours of all the cities

http://www.france-voyage.com/cities-towns/labels.htm

https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/ Fodors Forum has been by far the best guide each and every time.

AIR TRAVEL

2nd step was booking air tickets. I booked our tickets Mumbai-Paris-Mumbai via Doha on Qatar Airways on 24th October 2014. I realised that we could have got some better and cheaper connections in February 2015. 3 to 4 months prior to the departure is a good time to book tickets out of India. Booking tickets on Tuesdays and Wednesdays also can get a good deal sometimes rather than weekends. Now my trip dates were fixed to 15th May 2015 to 21st June 2015.

ACCOMMODATION:

I booked all my apartments and hotels through booking.com, which allowed me to cancel and rebook without any penalty. This process of “quest for the best” continued almost till we left.

We booked self catering apartments with a kitchen at most places. France has a very good system of family run home stays and villas/ apartments. The call it “Gite”. One can rent an excellent place for a week starting from 300 Euros for 4 people for a week upto 7-800, 100 Euros a week. The longer you stay, better it gets for both. There are websites for that.

One does have to see if there is an airconditioner. We didn’t check that and did suffer at one place in the first week of June.

LOCAL TRANSPORT & LOGISTICS:

4th Step was to book the car. I tried various rental options almost for 6 months. Our main requirement was to accommodate 4 bags of 24” size and have a zero excess insurance that covers everything. I have a separate thread on forum about what to look for while booking a car and how to get a better deal. The 2nd best deal was through Autoeurope from Hertz. It was for a Renault Captur for 835 USD plus additional zero excess insurance. This car could take only 2 bags. The best deal I got was long term rentals/ ownership from Renault Eurodrive for 33 days for :Renault Dacia Duster 4x2 petrol Tce 125 cv GPS Europe for 928 €. I also got a free Tank full of Petrol worth 90 Euros as Special Offer when I confirmed before March, 31. This was a plan where I bought a brand new car and sold it back to them after 33 days. (This plan is available for rentals over 17 days period) I pay only the difference which was effectively 838 Euros. I was treated as an expat and the car had a red coloured number plate. This plan covered total zero excess insurance cover, road side assistance, no charges for lost keys, facility of dropping the car anywhere at 40 locations of Renault Eurodrive throughout France and Europe, without any return or pick up charges. (I didn’t need any of these) Free built in GPS, Unlimited kilometers, insurance any number of drivers free of cost.

NAVIGATION:

ViaMichelin.com maps and navigation was much better and realistic than Google Maps.

I planned all the routes in Viamichelin.com. Did a lot of research on Google maps. Saw Street Views several times of several routes.

We bought a Nokia phone for my daughter and downloaded HERE MAPS as in 2015, these maps were the only option for offline navigation, if one doesn’t have a Tomtom or Garmin.

We also had Google maps in each of our Android phones. We had downloaded offline maps of France, Switzerland and Black Forest, Germany.

We eventually got the car with a free built in Navigation, which we used all the time. Many times, HERE MAPS gave us better directions.

In addition to this, I was carrying a TAB which we used for carrying all the route maps, information about places etc. We thought this was a better and eco-friendly way to be traveling light.

ROADS & TOLL:

There are Toll roads which usually bypass the villages and are fast. Tolls are high. As per my calculations on ViaMichelin.com, we would have had to pay close to 200-250 Euros as toll.

Tolls are to be paid either by cash, card or a prepaid Card sticker. Speed limit is usually 90 to 110 km/hr

There are non-toll roads that run parallel to the Toll-roads, which go through the small villages and are more scenic. Speed limit was 50-70-90 km/hr. In the villages it comes to 30km.

Both road quality is great. Didn’t make much difference at all places, as we used to leave early on a long day. We used more of country roads and less of toll roads.

INSURANCE

We bought travel insurance online for 250,000 USD for the entire duration of our travel after comparing on Policybazaar.com. I received the policies on email. This is required to be done before the Visa application.

VISA

We took an online appointment for Schengen Visa with the VFS France in Mumbai. Gathered all the documents and applied around 6th of April 15, about 4o days in advance. Received it in 7 days.

DRIVING LICENCE:

We applied 3 weeks prior for International Driving License valid for 1 year, from Tardeo RTO, Mumbai. Got it in 2 hours. That’s required along with the valid local driving licence.

MONEY:

We bought Euros currency notes in India. Besides this we carried Credit Cards. On the hindsight, we think that we should have carried a Foreign Currency Card with Euros preloaded, as many petrol stations accepted only these cards and no cash. We had Priority Pass for International Lounge Access.

FOOD:

We carried ready to eat Food packets, Tea, Coffee Sachets. Carried an Electric Kettle to make all this. Typically, we used to buy local bread, eggs, cheese, desserts from a local bakery or super market. Made our breakfast and dinners mostly in our apartments. Had lunches outside. We didn’t carry small Thermos for hot tea, coffee during the journey, which we added in our next trip.

PACKING:

Nest stepwas one of the most exiting one. Shopping and packing for the trip. I was working overtime to complete my projects in hand. We were all set for the dream trip of our lifetime. We carried 4 soft luggage bags of 24”+2” of wheels(650mm)+ 2 small strolley haversacks, a small shoulder camera bag. Flat Waist Pouches to be worn inside the trousers to carry cash. Carried Travel jackets with inner pockets and carried Passports and driving licences all the time on body.

Carried layered clothing as the weather in each part was different.

TELEPHONE and DATA:

I had decided that I will buy a LEBARA prepaid Phone and Data card locally when we land at the airport. The shop at the airport wasn’t selling the data card that I needed. I thought we will buy it later. The next day was a Sunday. We postponed the decision of buying the card as we had wifi in every hotel/ apartment. We eventually didn’t buy a card, which we should have. There is an option of pre-ordering the card which should be chosen. We corrected this error in our next trip.

CAMERA:

I CARRIED MY Nikon D 7000 Camera with 17-50mm f 2.8 as walk around lens/ 50mm f 1,4 portrait lens/ 70-200 f 2.8 for details and people / 11-16 f 2.8 super wide for landscapes














Adelaidean Apr 17th, 2020 02:24 PM

I remember your planning...looking forward to your photos and descriptions.

Paragkash Apr 17th, 2020 03:02 PM

Dream journey begins...
 
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The adventure begins. The 4 Characters of this story.
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Flying over the AlpsDAY 1- Saturday 16th May 2016

Adventure begins- Mumbai Paris flight and Drive to Eparney, Champagne

Left home by 00.45 hrs by Ola cab. Reached by 1.15 am. Check in and security done in 30 min. Boarded by 4 am.

Qatar Airways flight

4.40 am – 5.35 am- (3.30 hours flying time)

2.35 hours layover at Doha, Qatar airport

8.10 am – 14.10 pm Doha – CDG Paris

Qatar airport was very nice.

Boarded flight A 380, the largest aircraft ever, for Doha to CDG Paris journey.

Very spacious. Generous leg space, push back reclining seats.

Good choice of in flight entertainment.

I watched my favourite Classic war movie “Where eagles dare” for the n th time. Poonam watched Mardani and friends. Priyanka studied and slept. Poorva also slept well. Good food and wine on board. We landed at 14.10 hrs. Immigration, getting luggage etc took 1 hour. Wheel of one of our 4 bags was broken. Tourist info at the airport was pathetic and didn’t have any information or brochures. Tried buying a mobile sim card at Relay Shop at the airport but it had a 7.50E calling card without internet (for 9.90 E). Data was a must for us. Thought of buying it elsewhere. (We didn’t eventually buy the card during the trip, as we got WIFI at all the hotels and apartments. It was a mistake but didn’t matter much)
We found a free land line phone and called Renault “TT Cars” He called us to Gate no. 2 on Departure level which was one level below arrival level. Nicholai came there within 5 minutes with a big van. Took us and our luggage to his office which was 5 km away. It was one small structure with a large surrounding area where many cars were parked. My brand new white SUV Renault Dacia Duster (Petrol manual) was ready for us. He copied my passport, I signed a contract document in 5 minutes.

We left at 4.30 pm, took a Toll road (2.10 E) to Eparney and reached by 7.30 pm. Approx. 156 km with 89km on motorways (toll 6.10E) out of the 2 hours drive.

Was a bit careful and slow in the beginning as the car, roads were new and I was driving a left and drive car. In about 15 minutes I was whistling and all knew I was very comfortable.

The car had a very good GPS cum entertainment touch screen system.

I had noted down Google coordinates of all the hotels and apartments. So we never lost our way or had to ask for directions to anyone.
The roadscape became very scenic as we left the toll road and entered Chamapgne region towards Eparney.

Enroute, in Champagne region we saw a Mansion being renovated. Owner Nicholas was proudly explaining us the interiors.

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On the right is the 5th and very important character of our story. Our Duster. It was brand new, Done just 90 km run to the yard. We could tell that from the smell inside a new car. It was going to play a lead character in our story.. ..
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The owner explained us the details of the renovation of his 300 years old Chateau. He was going to convert it into a "Gite" Holiday Villa.
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The proud owner Nicholas with the Chateau.

We took a photo stop at a pretty village Châtillon-sur-Marne lies in the valley of the Marne River, surrounded by the Parc Naturel de la Montagne de Reims. The village stands above sloping vineyards and fields.

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Village Centre of Châtillon-sur-Marne. We parked our car here and walked up to the castle.
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Statue of Pope Urban II, Châtillon-sur-Marne.
Parked our car and walked 5 minutes up the hill to see the Statue of Pope Urban II. Beautiful view of vineyards and villages from there. That was our first glimpse of rural France. I knew we were in for a great trip.
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View of the Marne river valley from top of the hill.
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View of the Marne river valley from top of the hill.
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We covered 160 km. Drove for about 3 hours including photo stops. Reached Eparney by 7pm. Just about a perfect time to drive just after landing. I wasn't tired.

Bought grocery ar Carrefour Eparney.
Reached hotel Premiere Classe Eparney. Compact room with a double bed and a bunk bed and very compact toilet.
Watched a glorious sunset over Eparney from our 2nd floor room window. Had dinner in the room & slept by 10 pm.

1st day was exactly as planned. I was happy.

cafegoddess Apr 17th, 2020 08:39 PM

Looking forward to reading your adventure. It sounds wonderful!

Coquelicot Apr 18th, 2020 05:24 AM

I remember when you were planning this trip and I figured you would write a great trip report for us. So what if it took five years? I'm glad your wife found the notebook. Reading about your planning and your successful first day has been a real treat. Looking forward to more.

geetika Apr 18th, 2020 08:21 AM

Paragkash, IMO misplacing your notebook was
quite providential! We’re all in travel withdrawal and look forward to going along with you on your journey...😃

Paragkash Apr 18th, 2020 12:46 PM

DAY 2- Sunday 17th May 2016- Taste of Champagne and Drive to Alsace

Weather: 18 C- A Perfect Sunny day

Eparney was meticulously chosen as our overnight stop to break the journey between Paris and Alsace. It is just 2 hours’ drive from Paris. We wanted to stay away from big cities and towns. It is popular yet a small town that is home to many of the world’s most celebrated Champagne houses. It is the best place for touring cellars and sampling bubbly and also makes an ideal base for exploring the scenic Champagne Routes.

We got up at 7 am. Quite fresh now and didn’t feel any fatigue of travel on the earlier day. Had breakfast in the hotel. Cleaned the car and left by 9 am. Drove about 1.5 km to Eparney centre. Parked the car in the by lane just off the main Avenue. It was a lazy Sunday morning. Not many people around. Tourist buses from Paris were yet to arrive for a day trip.

Avenue de Champagne is the most glamorous but quaint street that has the big wineries like Moet and Chandon, Pol Roger, Tattinger, Mercier, Laurent-Perrier, Bollinger and Dom Perignon occupying palatial buildings on either side. This is where all the grapes on the surrounding hills come to be elevated into Champagne.

Walking on this quiet tree lined street, you will not realize what lies beneath. Millions of bottles of champagne! There are miles long tunnels & large cellars built into the chalk rock, beneath the streets, in which the wines which are bottled and stored and processed to mature. Above ground, it looks like any other town. Underground however is another story. Covering 110 km, underground tunnels and caves dug out of chalk are part of everyday life for the Champagne Houses. At about 30 m under the Avenue de Champagne, staff can be seen driving little buggies, checking on wine, riddling (turning) the bottles and taking visitors on tours. France produces close to 300 Million bottles of Champagne every year.

Moet & Chandon (which alone produces 28 million bottles/year) tour was on my itinerary but it was closed for renovation.

It's an easy stroll down the street to the centre of town. Visited the City hall neoclassical “Hotel De Ville” beautiful gardens.

Eparney has a long and turbulent history that dates back to Roman times since 5th century. Having to endure more than most towns ever would, Epernay, has been completely destroyed and plundered around 20 times in its history. Last ones were the 2 world wars. It has been painstakingly rebuilt and what looks traditional and old is actually built in 19th and 20th Century.

We clicked a few photos and left at 11.30 to explore the most beautiful countryside.

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The scenic Route du Champagne goes across the “Grande Montagne” (large mountain), realm of Pinot noir, and follows the edge of the “Parc Naturel Régional de la Montagne de Reims” (a protected natural area) with the remarkable village of Verzenay and Verzy, a very ancient wine growers village.


schnauzer Apr 18th, 2020 01:38 PM

Great report! Worth the wait, so glad you found your notebook. I’m along for the trip as, of course, mine’s been cancelled.

travlsolo2 Apr 18th, 2020 03:18 PM

Enjoying your report. Looking forward to reading more.

Paragkash Apr 18th, 2020 10:10 PM

Hi cafegoddess, Coquelicot, geetika, schnauzer, travlsolo2
I am glad that you guys are following the trip report.
Actually, i did think that writing a report for the first time and that too after 5 years was a weird idea.
But it is surely giving me a pleasure of re-living those moments.
Trying to make a constructive use of the lock-down period.
As an added benefit, it has also given me some positivity in the otherwise gloomy period.
Thanks all for the encouragement.

Adelaidean Apr 19th, 2020 01:37 AM

Yes, Paragkash, we need the positivity too. Thanks for continuing.

Paragkash Apr 19th, 2020 08:33 AM

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Beautiful streets of Eparney.
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I realized it after coming here that Hotel De Ville is not a hotel but a Town hall :) and is usually one of the most opulent building in the town/city. This one is no exception. Ornate with lot of statues and handsome architecture. Has a beautiful garden attached at the back. We got some good photo ops.
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This is the reason for Eparney to be called as the self proclaimed capital of the Champagne. The Superstars of Champagne makers are here. Moet & Chandon owns huge estates and hundreds of acres of vineyards around. It alone makes 28 million bottles of Champagne every year.

Paragkash Apr 19th, 2020 11:35 AM

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Unhurried and relaxed Absorbing the surroundings rather than trying to see
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Route goes through some picture post card villages
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Lessons in French learnt on day 1- Vegetables are called Legumes and bread is called Pain :) Buying grocery and local produce from the local "boulangerie" bakery shop is what we love when we are on a vacation. We try to speak a few words in the local language and that breaks the ice. It also gives us the feeling of being temporary residents of the place and not tourists.
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Route touristique du Champagne
Goes through one of the most scenic landscapes
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The scenic route passes through beautiful green landscapes and picture postcard villages. All very well signposted
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These could easily pass off as windows Wallpaper Best Scenery. Beautiful sunny day
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Beautiful
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Eglise Du Mutigny.. The church on a hill has a beautiful setting. Its surrounded with vineyards
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That's the slide I made in my presentation to show the location of Champagne region in the North East of France and the best thing it produces.
villages

Coquelicot Apr 19th, 2020 12:46 PM

You've take some great photos but the scenery makes it easy. Nice to see the four of you smiling and happy. Do the women in your family know how much pre-trip work you did?

Paragkash Apr 19th, 2020 12:48 PM

DAY 2- Sunday 17th May 2016- Taste of Champagne and Drive to Alsace ( Continued)

We went on a scenic route through Champagne villages and vineyards, drove East to Ay. Took a photo stop. We had great views and drove in the middle of the well known vineyards of Pommery , Moet-Chandon , Veuve Clicquot The villages are delightful and we had a lovely drive. We stopped at Mutigny Church up the hill. It has good views of the surrounding vineyards all around. We were slightly hungry and thought of having some waffles that we had picked up from Eparney and some snacks that we were carrying. It was nice to view the countryside from Mutigny Eglise (Church)

This region has some of the best champagnes in the world! Especially the small and unknown champagne houses are the best and what makes the champagne region that amazing! We wanted to find out how the champagne was discovered at the birthplace of Champagne.

Our next customary halt was a well-researched small family owned Champagne maker called “Champagne Zimmerlin Flamant” at Mutigny. This was really the highlight of the day's trip! It is run by Philippe and his wife. It is a very small set up. He probably doesn’t have his own vineyards. Not knowing French can be a problem in the small villages. They had a Dutch artist and his wife with them who knew English, as he lives in New York for some moths of the year. The owner lady and the artist took us on a small tour and explained us the art of making of Champagne. The tour is free. You pay for the tasting per glass. We already knew a few things and learnt a lot more about the history and the process.
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1. A unique stand for the bottles. The are always stored inclined.
2. Philippe showing us how the Champagne bottle is rotated slightly every day. to reduce the buildup of bubbles in the unopened bottles, This procedure, called "riddling," is still done today by hand in the most prestigious champagne houses.
3. Their vessels where the grapes are crushed
4. The small set up of the cellar.

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1. In the courtyard of the small winery. 2. Method of corking the bottles. They are always inclined till they come to the shop.
2. We tasted 3 of their best collections and picked up one bottle. They tasted better after knowing how much of history and technology goes behind it.

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A procedure called "disgorgement." This involves uncorking the bottles during the second fermentation

What we understood after the informative tour that had a personal touch.

“Champagne is a light sparkling wine which is made only in the Champagne region of north-eastern France.
It is different from all other sparkling wines in the world for three major reasons:

1. a wine can only be labeled as "champagne" if is made in the Champagne region of France.

2. to be called "champagne," it must be made only from the Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, or Chardonnay grapes which grow in that region.

3.true champagne, as opposed to other sparkling wines has to have gotten its bubbles by undergoing the fermentation process twice: once in barrels and again in bottles. Champagne can be produced elsewhere, as long as credit it given to the "methode champenoise" on the label.

A near-blind Benedictine monk named Dom Pierre Perignon was given the job of being its chief treasurer and cellar master. When he first took over in 1688, the wine being produced by the abbey was adequate but pale. Perignon feared that the deep red wine from the neighboring region of "Bourgogne" (Burgundy), was gaining favor with the King . The lighter red of the wine produced in Champagne was becoming a problem but was unavoidable due to the cooler climate of the region.

In this northern region of France the grapes had to be harvested early and the wine barrels became too cold during winter months. Unfortunately, even though it had not reached peak fermentation, the pinkish juice had to be bottled. After all, there was a royal demand for the product, and it was up to the monks at the abbey to deliver. But while the chilly winter had temporarily halted the fermentation process, the warmer spring climate "reawakened" the fermentation after the wine had been bottled. The result, of course, were bubbles!

Because Perignon and his abbey brothers were frustrated by the presence of the "bulles" (French for "bubbles"), they began altering the wine's chemistry by blending several types of grapes and removing the skins. What resulted was the art of blending, and the first white wine ever produced! Yet, unfortunately, this new elegant pale wine persisted in fermenting after it was bottled!

The bubbles were considered by the monks to be a serious defect in the wine, and the cause of production disasters: bottles were exploding all over the cellars! Nevertheless, Dom Perignon did not give up; and legend says that when he tasted the new lighter bubbly wine he was pleasantly surprised, and exclaimed "Come quickly, brothers! I'm tasting stars!" If the elegant bubbly could just be bottled without exploding, the monks could introduce a truly exciting new wine. Dom Perignon began by changing the shape of the bottle and using heavier glass. The stronger bottle eliminated the explosion problem, but now the effervescence of the bubbly wine persisted in blowing out the hemp and oil stoppers. Perignon turned to Spain for stoppers made of cork, and Voilà . . . the cork did it! The king's court was delighted with this new effervescent pale colored wine. The abbey's reputation was saved!

Nearly a century passed before a young woman named Nicole Clicquot would implement ways to enhance bottle fermentation of sparkling wine. The "Veuve (Widow) Clicquot" took over her husband's champagne "house" at the age of 27 when he died unexpectedly, thus becoming one of the "grandes dames" of champagne, as well as a business woman far ahead of her time. In an attempt to reduce the buildup of bubbles in the unopened bottles, her cellar master began rotating the bottles slightly every day. Tah-dah!! This procedure, called "riddling," is still done today by hand in the most prestigious champagne houses.

The House of Clicquot also perfected a procedure called "disgorgement." This involves uncorking the bottles during the second fermentation to dislodge the yeast sediment that had accumulated. The bottles were stored at an angle so that sediment would settle in the neck . Upon releasing the cork, pressure forced sediment to be expelled from the bottle. An expert "disgorger" could then quickly re-cork the bottle before losing any of the precious bubbly.

The true French way to make champagne still relies on blending grapes, fermenting the wine in bottles, riddling the bottles to reduce pressure, and disgorging the sediment from the neck. Any current producer of sparkling wine who strictly follows these procedures can legally use the expression on their label.”


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There are approximately 58 million bubbles in one bottle of champagne.
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A carved water fountain , Ingenious equipment that can only be seen in a small scale winery...... Signature cork


We paid 2 Euros per glass each for the 2 varieties of Champagne Blend and one of Chardonnay. We also bought a bottle Zimmerlin-Flamant Cuvee Prestige Brut. We were slightly richer in our knowledge of the divine magic potion, at least for the time being.https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c1f883cb64.png
A unique wine bottle

Campaign tasting done, winery visit done. One box ticked. We loved it. We continued the Scenic route.

We have resolved the problem of driving after wine testing. Only one of us tastes the wine and the other one drives after that. So Poonam drove after that. We drove till Verzeney. A beautiful little village. Drive all the way was extremely scenic at every turn. Saw the windmill. Kids were sleeping at the back. Clicked some photos and cut short our route by 2 pm and drove towards Nancy.

We loved Champagne and were glad that we chose to stay and spend one and a half day there. Two-three days in Champagne would be wonderful and relaxing. But to think of it, it would have been the same beautiful landscape for some more time. Looking back, I think it was just right.

We stopped along the motorway at Rest area food plaza at 2.30 pm. Had some light snacks and hot coffee. Whenever we are on the move and have to drive long distances, we don’t eat heavy meals, but eat small portions after some intervals. That keeps us alert. Another rule that we follow is that, we change drivers between the two of us after every 2 hours or after the first yawn by the driver, whichever comes earlier, generally, try and take at least a 5 minutes halt n stretch after every 2 hours. Strictly avoid driving after sunset.


NANCY:

We took the fast toll road and reached Nancy by 5 pm. It took us about 30 minutes to find a parking space. We could not locate the underground parking places. We finally found a place on a road side near the centre, as it was a Sunday; we could park there for free. (We try and plan our visits to big cities on Sundays and try and reach there early in the morning, as there is less traffic and parking laws are relaxed)

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We had a long drive. 50+20 km in Champagne and 330 km from Champagne to Beblenheim in Alsace almost on Germany Border. 400 km in a day with sightseeing and Champagne tasting was just as we planned.
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Along the road to Nancy
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Stanislas Square... One of the best in Europe. Its bursting with locals and tourists. Very Opulent and lively place.
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Fountains of Neptune and Amphitrite
Generous use of gold plating and ornamentation on the splendid wrought-iron gates

We chose Nancy as our halt, as the former capital of the Duchy of Lorraine has architectural marvels around every corner, from UNESCO-listed 18th-century squares to baroque palaces and elegant art nouveau villas., It was built by Stanislas Leszczynski, father-in-law of Louis XV, king of France, and unhappy pretender to the Polish throne. Its main pedestrian square “the Place Stanislas” is one of the most opulent of the royal squares in Europe and is one of the best urban spaces or plazas in France.
It looked more opulent in the golden sunlight in the evening because of the richness of its architecture and ornamentation.

The place is plush with generous use of gold plating and ornamentation on the splendid wrought-iron gates that decorate the open corners, the Fountains of Neptune and Amphitrite of the sculptor Guibal, the Fountain of the Place d’Alliance by Paul-Louis Cyfflé. All this makes this ensemble a veritable masterpiece.
Cafes full of tourists, musicians were making it more vibrant. We soaked ourselves in the atmosphere for some time. We had to still go a long way. so left by 6 pm.

DRIVE TO ALSACE:

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Entrance to the 7 km long Maurice Lemaire tunnel through Vosges Mountains. Great feat of engineering. Winding mountain road after we crossed the tunnel.
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1.Toll Road from Nancy to the tunnel. Road-scape and sunlight were fantastic thoughout 2. A 7 km long Maurice Lemaire tunnel through Vosges Mountains. Great feat of engineering. Speed limit 80 km 3. Interesting tall sculpture to welcome us to Alsace on the other side of the tunnel
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1. Beautiful landscape that was totally different from Champagne. Sheeps grazing at the foot of the Vosgage Mountain. 2. We had reached Beblenheim, Alsace; well within time. It was still daylight at 8 pm.


We wanted to reach our apartment in Alsace well before the sunset. We took N333 and then the toll road N59, converging into N159. Passed through a 7 km long Maurice Lemaire tunnel through Vosges Mountains. Great feat of engineering. We emerged on the other side of the mountain in Alscae and the scenery changed drastically. It was much cooler too. We drove down through winding mountain roads. Beautiful scenery around. We reached on the planes below and reached Beblenheim after driving for 135 km from Nancy by 8 pm. Total driving on the day was about 380 km. We paid 8 Euros- toll till Beblenheim. There was still twilight in the sky. We manged to reach before dark.

A very small village. Our apartment “Gite Du Vignoble” on the 1st floor was a part of an old family home where the landlord’s family lived. Small family run place with an entrance courtyard. Place had a Character, central location, close to all important villages. Village is small and quaint. Has well equipped kitchen, washing machine. Value for money. We loved it at that price. Apartment is on the 1st floor with a small flight of steps. We had to take the bags up the stairs but that was ok.

We parked our car outside on the road outside the Apartment. The apartment was large, with one Bedroom, Living cum bedroom, kitchen, dining, bath and wc. Had free wifi, TV and an equipped kitchen, washing machine. We could see the church spire through our window. The landlord was a very humble old man. Could speak only German and French. We somehow managed to communicate. His teenage granddaughter also helped us by conversing in English. He had kept a complimentary local Reisling wine bottle for us. We had dinner at home and slept by 11 pm.

We had a long drive. 50+20 km in Champagne and 330 km from Champagne to Beblenheim in Alsace almost on Germany Border. We were carrying our luggage right from the time we checked out at 9. We stopped at minimum 5 places, including 2 big cities, with the luggage in the boot. We had to take the risk against the advice of many veterans. Luckily, we were safe. 400 km in a day with Eparney and Nancy sightseeing and Champagne tasting was just as we planned.

Paragkash Apr 19th, 2020 01:09 PM


Originally Posted by Coquelicot (Post 17095893)
You've take some great photos but the scenery makes it easy. Nice to see the four of you smiling and happy. Do the women in your family know how much pre-trip work you did?

Coquelicot, Thanks, Yes, You are right. the scenery is so good that the photos look better, even by an armature photographer by a simple phone camera.
Having said that, I do research on the photography of a particular place, which place (especially monuments) gets better light at which time. I also carry a calendar with sunset and sunrise timings. Try to click in the Golden hour for particular places. If possible, see sunrises or sunsets. It becomes difficult in Europe, as sunrises are at 5 and sunsets are after 9-9.30 pm in the summers. Burning the candle from both sides isn't possible every time. I also study and carry the required heavy lenses and an SLR camera. Study frames and angles. It just gives a slight edge. After all I accept that I am not a professional photographer but a hobby photographer.

Yes, we all in the family enjoy travelling to new and sometimes offbeat places. Though the extent of passion cannot be the same. Road trips are the best for family bonding.

"Do the women in your family know how much pre-trip work you did?"

I am amazed that you thought of this question. It always is at the back of my mind. But never spoke to my family about it.
The women do see me reading and researching. They somewhat know but do not probably know to what extent and how much thinking, meticulous planning and efforts go into it.
If the trip goes well as planned and everything falls in place, it is a combination of Hard work, luck and God's grace finally.

patandhank Apr 19th, 2020 01:15 PM

Wow what a trip! Some great details.

You have a lovely family.

rhon Apr 19th, 2020 05:06 PM

What lovely photos . This is a pleasure to read as so many of us are suffering withdrawal at the moment. I am looking forward to travelling along with you and your lovely family. Perhaps we will see places we have visited as well as new places to add to the ever growing list.

geetika Apr 19th, 2020 10:23 PM


Originally Posted by patandhank (Post 17095904)
Wow what a trip! Some great details.

You have a lovely family.

Paragkash, am so enjoying your travels and stunning pictures, especially the ones from the champagne region. We spent an extended weekend there in 2017 and loved every moment, reading your experiences brought back those memories. We drove to to the Loire area from there and then back to Paris.

Your family probably knows how much planning you do even though they may not talk about it. Usually one person handles this part and the others come along. And from personal experience half the fun is in researching and working out your itinerary...😊

Paragkash Apr 20th, 2020 12:41 AM


Originally Posted by patandhank (Post 17095904)
Wow what a trip! Some great details.

You have a lovely family.

Hi Patandhank, Thanks a lot. Touch wood.
I am really happy to know that you people like it.
I have read your trip report a few months ago. Am not going beyond.
Probably will do only Romania and Bulgaria. Am following almost the same route as yours. May add more days in Transylvania.
Thanks again.

Paragkash Apr 20th, 2020 12:56 AM


Originally Posted by rhon (Post 17095972)
What lovely photos . This is a pleasure to read as so many of us are suffering withdrawal at the moment. I am looking forward to travelling along with you and your lovely family. Perhaps we will see places we have visited as well as new places to add to the ever growing list.

Hi rhon, Thanks a lot for appreciation.
I had read your thread about cancellation of your trip to France. It's probably a blessing in disguise. You took the right decision at the right time.

In fact I had read your trip report before we went for this trip. We have also come to a conclusion that rather than adding stamps of new countries on your passport, its better to visit the same countries that you like, See some new places there and re-visit the places that you liked a lot. I have been doing that on a smaller scale in Austria and Bavaria. That's how we would like to do our trips some day, when we will be done with our responsibilities and can spend 2 weeks in a Gite in one very small village that probably people back home or the tour companies have never heard of. Migrate for 2 months. Love the way you travel.
I am feeling the pressure of you experienced people reading my report.

Paragkash Apr 20th, 2020 01:02 AM


Originally Posted by geetika (Post 17096015)
Paragkash, am so enjoying your travels and stunning pictures, especially the ones from the champagne region. We spent an extended weekend there in 2017 and loved every moment, reading your experiences brought back those memories. We drove to to the Loire area from there and then back to Paris.

Your family probably knows how much planning you do even though they may not talk about it. Usually one person handles this part and the others come along. And from personal experience half the fun is in researching and working out your itinerary...😊

Thanks Geetika. I am happy that you liked whatever little I posted. It's a great relief to interact with like minded people in this period of quarantine. Hope you guys are safe and are taking utmost care.

I hope my family knows about it. You are absolutely right. Researching is the most fun part of it. I think anticipation adds spice to it.

Adelaidean Apr 20th, 2020 01:13 AM

I am the researcher in my family.

We joke that as we get seated in the plane my husband asks....“ so where are we heading? “

....it’s not really like that, it just feels like it when I have spent months choosing the base locations, then look at day trip options, then accommodation, and so it goes on. I love it.

Such a wonderful experience to share with your family.

geetika Apr 20th, 2020 05:17 AM


Originally Posted by Adelaidean (Post 17096030)
I am the researcher in my family.

We joke that as we get seated in the plane my husband asks....“ so where are we heading? “

Same story with me also, in addition we always take one multi generation family vacation every year with my brother, sister and her family.

Choosing the destination is a joint decision and we kind of figure out the itinerary and tours we’d like to do. Then I work out the details and research everything. Luckily we have similar tastes, so it’s not too hard. Then of course we split up to do our own stuff and give each other some space.

We were in Andalucia early March and just made it back home before borders closed. A trip to London and Barcelona for May was of course cancelled...

Paragkash Apr 20th, 2020 02:03 PM

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ALSACE: 4 NIGHTS 3 DAYS
Alsaceis the Germanic region of France. It is a narrow vertical strip of land lying on the west bank of the river Rhine, between the Rhine and the Vosges mountains. To the north and east it shares a border with Germany. Historically speaking, Alsace was part of the German-speaking area of central Europe. In the last two centuries, Alsace has passed from Germany to France and back , and back again; consequently, it is a region that was not part of France at the time of the makings of the modern-day nation. In terms of heritage and culture, with its villages of brightly-painted steep-roofed half-timbered houses, Alsace is definitely Germanic than French.

DAY 3- Monday- 18th May 2016- STRASBOURG & NORTH ALSACE WINE ROUTE (Lower Rhine, or Bas Rhin)
Weather: 20 C- A Bright Sunny day
Drive: 170 km

Got up at 6.30 am. Had Upma and Tea as breakfast. Cleaned the car screen. Left at 7.50 am for Strasbourg via the main A35 road. No toll here. Filled Petrol at Selestat, off the highway.

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This was unusual for us, as back in India, there is always an attendant to fill petrol and collect money.

It was fast moving traffic but we got some traffic before Strasbourg. Reached by 10 am. (68 km) We parked the car in the parking area on the centre divider, about 500 meters from the station at 20, Boulevard De Nancy. We walked to the station “Gare” The old building was covered with a big curved glass dome facade. Went inside the station to the Tourism office. Bought map. Bought Donuts and coffee there and we sat there sipping coffee and watching people.
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Unique design of Strasbourg Station looks like a flying saucer.

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Unique glass dome envelops old structure
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A mobile charging cycle which keeps you fit while it charges the phone.
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Walking Tour Map of Strasbourg

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Golden light coming through the stained glass windows of Église Catholique Saint-Pierre le-Vieux

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The Petite France section of Strasbourg is known for some of the most postcard perfect views. The half-timber buildings lining the canals, flowers spilling out of window boxes on buildings and bridges alike will have the shutterbug in you sighing and snapping all over this little area.
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Spring in Strasbourg
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Cafes are getting ready for the lunch time

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Streetside cafe
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The Barrage Vauban

This fortified bridge was a cornerstone of the city’s defenses from the 1600s when it was built, until as recently as the Franco-Prussian war in 1870. The walkway inside has some interesting stonework your camera will love, but even better is:
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The Ponts Couvert is the true entry into Petite France, and is a set of fortified bridges between tall square towers. The name seems deceptive since these bridges are no longer ‘covered’ (yet the Barrage Vauban is!), but when originally built in the 1300s and up until the 1700s, the bridge did have long roofs covering them. After the Barrage Vauban was completed these weren’t necessary anymore, and were eventually taken away.

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Petit France is the most charming area of Strasbourg
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Monster in the corner near the entrance of Strasbourg Cathedral
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To the northwest of the cathredral, still in the same square, you can’t miss the Kammerzell House. This incredibly preserved house is called by some “the most beautiful house in Strasbourg.” The foundations date back to 1427 while the ornately decorated levels of the house were built between 1467 and 1589.


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In some time, this area would be full with people who will be wining and dining
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Interesting door
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Signages
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This famous landmark of the Alsace region was the tallest building in the world from 1647 to 1874, and still has the honor of being the 6th tallest church in the world, and the tallest building still standing that was built entirely during the medieval period. Today, if you climb the North Tower (all 300+ steps) you can see as far as the Black Forest on a clear day.
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The spot where the Cathedral in Strasbourg was built was originally home to a Roman temple, emphasizing the long history of the city. The first version of the cathedrale started to be built in 1015.
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Interiors of Strasbourg Cathedral or the Cathedral of Our Lady of Strasbourg,

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The Rose window of the Strasbourg Cathedral is one of the biggest.
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beatiful lighting inside the cathedral
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Altar
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Astronomic Clock, Strasbourg
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Light of faith

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Street Character
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Gutenberg Square, it is believed Johannes Gutenberg perfected the idea of printing with movable type here in Strasbourg. Gutenberg Square is a tribute to this famous resident, with a statue dedicated to him in the middle, and a colorful and thoroughly enjoyed carousel beside it.

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Ornate Street light in Gutenberg Square

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Shopping street
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Tram Tracks over the bridge

Nice old town with canals, bridges and watch towers, half-timbered houses. Nice walk along the canals in Petit France. Cafes, souvenir shops dotted the streets. The old cathedral was really magnificent and iconic. Nice astronomical clock inside. Used the washrooms on the right side of the cathedral. Vibrant plaza outside. We completed the walking tour and walked back towards the station. Bought a straw hat. Had Pasta in a street side cafe at 3 pm. Bought grocery at Carrefour. One more lesson in French pronunciation that Carrefour is "Ka-fu" We bought a frock for Priyanka as it was her birth day the next day. We walked back to the car. We were very tired by then. We left at 4pm.

Took A35 and turned right towards the inner route, which is narrow, slow, quiet and scenic. We went to the 1st village enroute, which was Obernai. Parked the car and walked a bit. The village wasn’t very small because of its proximity to Strasbourg, but was very interesting. We bought a cake for Priyanka’s birthday.

More of a city than a village, Obernai is the second-most visited town in the Bas-Rhin, after Strasbourg. Its city hall, bell tower, wheat market and ramparts are its main curiosities. It’s a very lively city, with old-fashioned charm is well worth a visit.
OBERNAI:


Obernai street
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Rampart
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Half timbered buildings, curved streets
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Interesting plazas
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Colourful buildings
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Beautiful houses
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Obernai is almost a town rather than a village
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Ancient well
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Weather vane
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We took the slower and scenic route on our way back, which goes through several small and beautiful villages, vineyards, castle and countryside.

Poonam drove after Obernai. We passed many vineyards and small villages like Dambach-la-Ville, Eichhoffen, Itterwiller, Nothalten, Kintzeim; before we went up the hill on the right to Haute Koenisburg. It looks like a fairy-tale castle on the hill. Scenic drive uphill and panoramic view from top. The castle had closed at 5pm. We met some local cyclists there who clicked our pictures.
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Vineyards on both sides
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Vineyards
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Mittelbergheim, Picture postcard Village
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Typical street
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Beautiful roads
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We drove back to Beblenheim and reached by 8 pm.
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We enjoyed the Reisling wine given by the landlord, had pizza for dinner. Cut the cake to celebrate Priyanka’s 21st birthday. We slept at 10.30 pm as we needed an early start on the next day.

Paragkash Apr 20th, 2020 02:05 PM


Originally Posted by Adelaidean (Post 17096030)
I am the researcher in my family.
We joke that as we get seated in the plane my husband asks....“ so where are we heading? “
....it’s not really like that, it just feels like it when I have spent months choosing the base locations, then look at day trip options, then accommodation, and so it goes on. I love it.
Such a wonderful experience to share with your family.

Adelaidean, Thanks.

Adelaidean Apr 21st, 2020 12:42 AM

Those photos made me smile. Thank you. Oh, to sit at one of those outdoor tables right now....

We have been to Alsace 3 times now, really lovely region.


Paragkash Apr 21st, 2020 06:00 PM

ALSACE
Day 4- Tuesday 19th may 2015- Lake Titisee, Black Forest (GERMANY), Colmar and Egisheim (Alsace)
Weather: 15 C- Cludy and a little rains in Black Forest. / 19 C and Bright Sunshine in Colmar


Got up at 6 am. Had Omelette and coffee for breakfast and left at 8 am for Lake Titisee, Black Forest, Germany.
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The route went via Colmar and we crossed River Rhine to enter Germany. We went via Freiburg, the capital of black forest. Went up the mountains through dark coniferous trees which give the name Black forest to the region. Reached Titisee Neustadt. Parked in some hotel parking lot near bahnhof. Reached by 9.15 am. Walked 10 minutes to the lake Titisee. There were lot of Grand gift shops along the lake which displayed and sold the famous cuckoo clock that is made in this region. It is a centuries old art of making precision mechanical clocks that work only on winding. It was cold and rainy. The lake was very beautiful. Would have looked better on a sunny day. We did some shopping.
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Crossing the river Rhine from France to Germany.
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It was cloudy when we left Colmar and it looked very serene. We were a bit worried if it would be raining in Titisee.
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The Black Forest or Schwarzwald in German, gets its name from the 100-mile stretch of pine trees so dense the sun struggles to reach the forest floor.
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We passed beautiful villages enroute.
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We chanced upon farms and barns on the way.
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This detour was not planned
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We always wanted to visit a real farm
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The farm is in a remote rural area but is managed very professionally with latest technology. Each cow has a computerized tag in the ear.

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Birthday girl had a great time
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We could see the farm very closely
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The house of famous Drabba Cuckoo Clocks. Black Forest cuckoo clockmakers preserve the rich history of the region, using the same means as their forbearers to produce hand carved cuckoo clocks famous for their quality and craftsmanship.
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We did some shopping near the lake. We had Black Forest cake which was my daughters' wish. Black Forest cake is not named after Germany’s Black Forest but rather a specialty liquor from the Black Forest region. Distilled from tart cherries, Schwarzwälder Kirschwasser is what gives Black Forest cake its flavor.
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The lake Titisee (pronounced as Titty ZAY) was very scenic but it was very windy and cold. Roman general Titus camped near the lake, which he loved so much he named it after himself.

We ambled alongside the lakefront. Went tome boutique shops like Drabba. Admired various types of Cuckoo clocks. The clocks are not made here but at some place away from Titisee. I would have liked to see the factory. I bought a Statesons cap and a hat while kids at a burger. Did some shopping. We walked back to the car park and left at 1.30 pm.

We wandered around the German countryside, went to a real farm with cows and cowbells. It was fun. Clicked some photos.

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Freiburg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b208164971.png
We visited Colmar and Eguisheim On our way back

We crossed the French border again and reached Colmar by 3 pm. parked the car in a lane outside the city centre. Ate egg sandwiches. We walked to the tourist office. Collected a map. Used toilets nearby.
Colmar is the capital of Haute or upper Rhine in the south Alsace. It is the third largest city in Alsace after Strasbourg and Mulhouse. It still has a small town feeling. It is so pretty that it doesn’t feel real. Cobblestone streets run next to canals lined with half-timbered houses in shades of rose, sky blue, lemon, peppermint, and apricot, many dating back to the 14th century.
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charming lanes of Colmar
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A beatiful sculpture in a courtyard
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Little Venice... So much beauty everywhere
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Monster heads to ward off the evil
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people with a common thing... Zest for life
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street side cafes are the best places to people watch
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little Venice
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Projecting cast iron & wrought iron signs are a characteristic
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Each of them creative and different from the other. Depicts their line of business in a very creative way
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Few of the things that make Europe, Europe


We did a walking tour of Petit Venice. Old town centre is a very lively place with lot of canals and pretty half-timbered houses, fountains, plazas, outdoor cafes bustling with tourists.
We had some sandwiches there.
Poonam was very tired, so we wound up our tour and walked back to the car. Drove to a small village Eguisheim.Surrounded by vineyards, nestling in a fold of green hills, Eguisheim is a medieval village whose narrow, concentric streets highlight the architectural merits of its half-timbered houses, lovingly decorated with flowers. Since 1985, this passion has been rewarded with the "4-flower" rating of France's National Floral Award.


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Most charming village

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A small plaza... of Egusheim Scale
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It is undoubtedly the prettiest village in Alsace
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Each street corner calls yu to come and explore further
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Signages

While Colmar was stunning, our trip to Eguisheim was even sweeter.
The village is arranged in two concentric streets around a central square and at every turn we found ourselves stopping and take yet another picture-perfect snap. In fact, we did that during our time in both Equisheim and Colmar. Eguisheim is to wander the pretty streets, taking it all in and stopping for lots of photos. It’s like an open-air museum.

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Statue in the centre courtyard
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Centre of Eguisheim

“It’s just like the village in Beauty and the Beast.”
This was my first thought when arriving in the tiny village of Eguisheum, just down the road from the equally charming town of Colmar in France. With cobbled streets, candy-coloured houses and wooden beams, it was like stepping into a scene from the film I’d watched just a week before. I half expected Belle to appear and the whole street to burst into song. It was a fairytale bought to life

Explored this unique village: historic fountains, tithe manors, a yellow sandstone church with a 13th century "Opening Virgin" statue.
Strolled along its narrow streets and admired the broad spectrum of its coloured houses, where ancient inscriptions can be deciphered on the stone lintels. We fell in love with the personality of this most typical Alsace villages.

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It has a walking route marked on the concentric layout. Makes it easier to do a walking tour.
Would have liked to spend some more time in Eguisheim.


We left at 7.30 pm and reached Beblenheim at 8.15 pm.
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Somewhere on the Route de Vin and Beblenheim

I explored Beblenheim, a very small village, but centrally located on the Route De Vin. Good thing is that it is beautiful and non-touristy, as it is not among the star villages that anyone would visit.
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Beblenheim Church and my Gite next to it. Still golden sunlight at 8.30 pm
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small and charming
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Cuteness personified

We had “Ready to Eat” vegetables and bread and desserts for dinner and slept by 10.30 pm.
It was a long day since morning. We drove about 110 + 120 km , total of around 230 km.

Paragkash Apr 21st, 2020 06:03 PM


Originally Posted by Adelaidean (Post 17096475)
Those photos made me smile. Thank you. Oh, to sit at one of those outdoor tables right now....
We have been to Alsace 3 times now, really lovely region.

Adelaidean, :) I feel good that I am not the only one who wants to BE in Alsace again and again.
You are extremely fortunate. Touch wood.
We clicked maximum photos in Alsace. Posting some of them. They are still a lot. Is that normal?

geetika Apr 22nd, 2020 05:53 AM


Originally Posted by Paragkash (Post 17096827)
Adelaidean, :) I feel good that I am not the only one who wants to BE in Alsace again and again.
You are extremely fortunate. Touch wood.
We clicked maximum photos in Alsace. Posting some of them. They are still a lot. Is that normal?

DH and I haven’t been to Alsace in a very long time, somehow we’ve focused on other parts of France in the last 10-15 years.

Please keep your photos coming Paragkash, they bring back so many happy memories, they also add that extra zing to your narrative...😉

Paragkash Apr 22nd, 2020 09:50 AM


Originally Posted by geetika (Post 17096932)
DH and I haven’t been to Alsace in a very long time, somehow we’ve focused on other parts of France in the last 10-15 years.
Please keep your photos coming Paragkash, they bring back so many happy memories, they also add that extra zing to your narrative...😉

Hi Geetika, Thanks a lot. It's my pleasure.

schnauzer Apr 23rd, 2020 02:42 PM

Still enjoying your fab report. I got all teary eyed over the Strasbourg photos.. I took my Mum there not long before she died , I’ve photos of her in the same spots as your photos. Thanks for the memories.

great photos of everywhere... well done.

Paragkash Apr 25th, 2020 06:01 AM

schnauzer, you and your mom are lucky.
Very few people can take their parents to these lovely places.
Thanks for the kind words

Paragkash Apr 25th, 2020 09:16 AM

ALSACE
DAY 5- Wednesday- 20th May 2016- STRASBOURG & NORTH ALSACE WINE ROUTE (Lower Rhine, or Bas Rhin)Route De Vin villages- Relaxing day (Upper Rhine, or Haute Rhin- South Alsace)
Weather: 17 C- Partly Cloudy Day
Drive: 42 km

Got up at 7.30 am. Had breakfast and left at 9.00 amhttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fa736b78ef.png


This was our last day in Alsace and we wanted it to be a bit relaxed. Roamed around in quaint Alsace villages. This is one of the most scenic part in France.
We drove on the Route De Vin. Picturesque landscape with church spires, small villages nestled in lush green vineyards.
Our first stop was

Hunawihr- ***
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Sleepy laid back village. On the Alsace Wine Route, in a vineyard setting, Hunawihr is a typical Alsatian village, classified among the "Most Beautiful Villages in France". Hunawihr was founded in the 7th century by Hunon. His wife, Hune, the saint of washerwomen,gives its name to the village. The pilgrimage of Saint Hune, who was canonized in 1520, grew up around the fountain situated at the foot of the village, the tradition claiming that she came there to wash the clothes of the poor.
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Colourful half timbered houses are common in all of them
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Overlooking the village, the 15th/16th century Church of St Jacques le Majeur, surrounded by a fortified cemetery, has preserved an unspoiled environment, and is a good example of the unity of the Alsace region. This Church also served as a donjon where the inhabitants could take refuge in case of attack.
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We could see the castle on the way
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Hunawihr now has only 504 inhabitants
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This charming flowered village is an ideal starting-point for visiting neighbouring tourist sites, and also offers a history trail. notable places are- The church and its fortified cemetery (with Historical Monument status), the Schickardt House, the Renaissance Town Hall, The Fountain of St. Hune, the Stork and Otter Reintroduction Centre and the Butterfly Garden.
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circular bastion
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Heading towards Riquewihr, it becomes apparent that the visit to this village nestled between a wooden glen and protected from north winds by the Vosges Mountains, will live up to all expectations. The shades of the half-timbered houses are typical of Alsace: in red, green or bright yellow, adding a very picturesque stamp to the site.
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Riquewihr is the jewel in the crown - famous for the Riesling and other great Alsace wines produced here - and looks today exactly as it did in the 16th Century. Riquewihr is a wonderful and romantic little medieval city
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There is a small tourist train that takes the visitors through the main streets
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Riquewihr currently has 1228 inhabitants and is a member of the Association of the Most Beautiful Villages in France. It's bigger than Hunawihr or Eguisheim, but much smaller than Colmar
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All the signs are unique and beautiful
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These signs add the essential flavour
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Storks are there in almost every village, adding to their fairytale feel.
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It drizzled for some time. After visiting the "Hotel de Ville", Town Hall, we decided to take a small break
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The restaurant was beautifully decorated and served good Italian food. We had some soup and Pizzas.
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Beautiful street signs
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The street has several beautiful restaurants. We missed visiting the "Michelin Star" restaurant. Realized it late.
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Shops cell some local handicrafts
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Sitting in a beautiful small cafe and watching people is the most favourite activity
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The Route De Vin is extremely scenic
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With origins dating back to Roman times, Turckheim is another of the lovely towns on the Alsace wine route that is well worth a visit. The main pleasure of a visit comes from strolling along the cobbled streets in Turckheim, lined with brightly coloured half-timber houses. En-route you can admire its three fortified gateways and remaining parts of its ramparts.
The medieval gates of Turckheim The medieval ramparts that still surround Turckheim are accessed by three distinctive gateways: – the Munster Gate (through that gate, the tortured witches were lead to the square to be burnt at the stake). The Munster Gate has windows decorated with scallops which suggest that Turckheim was a stopover for pilgrims on the Way of St. James.

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We started our walking tour in the main square in Turckheim which is very attractive with its fortified gate, a lovely 16th century building which is home to the tourist office, and a selection of pretty half-timbered houses. We then wandered along the 'Grand Rue' to see more of these attractive half-timbered houses and lots of wine houses offering tastings (degustation).
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The old town of Turckheim In the town centre, many buildings reflect the prosperous past of Turckheim, which was a member of the Décapole: the Guardhouse, the Town-Hall, the parish church, as well as several half-timbered houses.
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A good place to start your visit is in the main square in Turckheim which is very attractive with its fortified gate, a lovely 16th century building which is home to the tourist office, and a selection of pretty half-timbered houses.
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Spring flowers
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half timbered houses
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pastel houses
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main street, we had waffles here
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main square is extremely attractive
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The red-coloured guardhouse was originally used as a covered market and a town-hall before being assigned to the guilds in 1575. The gable wall is decorated with an imperial eagle. The guardhouse houses a bell in the tower which dates back to 1658. The fountain standing in front of the Guardhouse was mentioned in 1667. It is surmounted by a statue of Mary the Virgin with Child.

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This medieval town was originally mentioned in 1227 when Emperor Frederick II of the Holy Roman Empire acquired a castle in present-day Kaysersberg. Initially named “Kaisersberg” (in German) or “Emperor’s Mountain,”
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Curio shop
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Even with a population of less than 3,000 people, this charming town on the Alsace Wine Route is bustling with colorful buildings and quaint architecture. Having been growing wine for over 400 years – and still being one of the main economic sources for this town
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In 2017, Kaysersberg was named France’s favorite village, beating out 12 other finalists. It won due to its friendly locals, walkable streets, and adorable architecture (look at all the half-timbered houses!). To be honest, due to the German influence, it felt like I was in a German village most of the time.
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Through the gun hole on the bridge
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The city of Kaysersberg and its viticulture are dominated by the castle ruins, which only consists now of a beautiful round tower.
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Beautiful lanes
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The river Weiss passing through the town makes it unique and different than others.
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River Weiss cascading through the village
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The famous Fortified Bridge (1514) replaced an old wooden structure. Unique in Alsace, it spans the small river of the Weiss which separates the old city and the upper part of town. It is equipped, on both sides, with parapets and arrowslits, in order to prevent any action that may occur along the Weiss River.
In the middle of the bridge, is an aedicule surmounted by the coat of arms of the German Holy Roman Empire and of those of the city (which had an emblem of a pouch) which houses an 18th century polychrome statue of the Virgin. Residents who had committed minor crimes were locked up here, and who, for a short time became the laughingstock of the town.

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picture postcard hoses are so well maintained by each individual. The immaculately painted houses have beautiful flower beds on their windows.
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The parish church of Kaysersberg is dedicated to the Holy Cross. Tradition has it that Empress Helena discovered the real cross in 327 in Jerusalem.
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The (modern) statue of the saint is placed in a niche in the pediment of the church and the statue of Emperor Constantine, her son, on the beautiful fountain in front of the sanctuary.
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Out of the villages we saw, I would rate them as
Riquwihr- * * * *

Kayeserberg- * * * *

Turchheim- * * *

Eguishem * * * *

The villages are picture post card and the most beautiful in France. One can visit these 4-5 villages to get the best out of Alsace.
I would have liked to visit the car museum at Mulhouse and Ronchamp Chapel designed by Le Corbusier.
We came back by 4.30 pm and chilled at the apartment. Packed bags.
I wrote my travel notes and revised the details of the next day.
Had “Ready to eat vegetables and bread and slept by 10.30 pm.
We had a long drive the next day and were planning to leave early.

Coquelicot Apr 25th, 2020 11:24 AM

This continues to be fascinating. You packed a lot into each day. The warm colors of the buildings kind of surprise me; I think of warm colors as more like southern France.

Calabria62 Apr 26th, 2020 07:23 AM

Thank you so much for posting this. It's fascinating, and readers are benefiting from your generous and painstaking report. The photos are making me rethink my now, postponed, itinerary.

Much appreciate it.

geetika Apr 27th, 2020 02:25 AM


Originally Posted by Coquelicot (Post 17098385)
This continues to be fascinating. You packed a lot into each day. The warm colors of the buildings kind of surprise me; I think of warm colors as more like southern France.

Your pictures are absolutely stunning, the one with the dark clouds over the landscape looks like a water colour!

Normandie also has a lot of half timbered houses, though I don’t seem to remember these rusts and browns, need to go back and look at my pictures again...

rhon Apr 27th, 2020 10:10 PM

The Alsace is lovely and your photos show it at its best. We have only spent a week there and that was way back in 2006. It really makes me want to return. One of the things we really enjoy about travelling around France is seeing how the house styles vary from region to region. The Alsace is very different, but the more areas you visit, the more differences you can see.

kerouac Apr 29th, 2020 02:00 AM

I am always thrilled whenever anybody promotes Alsace like this even though it has now become too popular during the summer months, especially with German tourists, who find it really exotic. That's what makes me laugh when people call Alsace "Germanic" -- the Germans don't think so at all. :lol:

If one good thing come out of the current health situation, it will be that a lot of pressure will be taken off the main tourist sights and those who manage to travel will be able to see them at their best.

I am anxiously awaiting the next installments of your report.

Paragkash May 3rd, 2020 05:14 AM

SWITZERLAND : 2 DAYS
Day 6 Thursday- 21st may 2016- Drive to Krattigen, Lake Thun, SWITZERLAND
Weather: 15 Degree C- Cloudy and with showers
Drive: 230 KM- 3.15 hours

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The owner of our Gite in Beblenheim was really very sweet and humble. Gave us personal attention.

Our destination for the 7th night was on the banks of Lake Annecy, France. Drive to Annecy through France via Besancon Via N5 A41 would have been an 9 hours& 397 km drive through mountainous region with an estimated Toll of €105. As we had decided to not do such a long journey on one day, we had to look for some night stop in between. We decided to take a shorter and cheaper route Via Switzerland and re-visit some of our favourite places. This was our 4th Visit to Switzerland. We had taken Eurail or Swissrail pass on our earlier trips. Driving on Swiss roads and going to the stunning places in between the small picturesque villages was the main attraction.
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Got up at 5.30 am Had Breakfast and left by 7.15 am for Switzerland. I was realizing by then, that 1 hour was not enough for all of us to get ready, have breakfast and leave. We were 45 minutes late as per the original plan. Though it didn't make any difference on this day. So I was cool.

Filled petrol at a pump at 9 km from Beblenheim. Petrol was slightly cheaper on the inner roads.
We crossed Switzerland border near Basel. Paid 43 Euros as a one-time yearly toll sticker to enter Switzerland. Crossed 3 tunnels after that via Olten, Bern into the Bernese Oberland. It was raining throughout our journey. The roads were excellent. So was the scenery. But the grey skies made it look dull.

We took a smaller road downwards towards Spiez on Lake Thun. It was still drizzling and we thought of not getting down. The lakeside and the castle are beautiful. We just had a photo-stop. Poonam took the wheels then. We went along the lake. Saw the Picturesque Spiez castle along the shore. Didn’t get parking anywhere. So drove ahead towards Krattigen.

Reached our wonderful Chalet Hotel Seeblick after a pleasant 2.15 hours drive by 10.30 am.
They allowed us early check in. Gave us the best room no 113 with the best view on the 1st floor.
This suit has one bedroom, Living room with a sofa cum bed, kitchen and a toilet. It has a 6 feet wide wrap around deck. The beds were very comfortable with fresh super-white linen. Situated high on the hillside above Thunersee Lake, every apartment has a balcony overlooking the lake and surrounding areas from Thun to Interlaken. Apartment was spacious, with proper kitchen fully stocked with pots, pans, utensils, etc The interiors were immaculate.
This suite had a breath taking 270 degrees view of the lake Thun and father away, Brienzersee; surrounded by snow-capped Alps, green meadows, and countryside and tiny. hamlets around. We could see waterfalls on the mountains and ships in the lake. This place has some of the best views I've seen in my travels. Indeed an unforgettable experience! This hotel is one of the most wonderful hotels I've stayed in.. ever.
In 15 minutes, the door bell rang. At the door was Naja, the owner lady herself, with an exotic bouquet of flowers from the hotel garden.
Wish you a Happy Wedding Anniversary! She wished me. I had almost forgotten that I had asked for the best possible room as it was our wedding anniversary. She did give us the best room indeed. My anniversary was one month later, but this was our customary annual trip around our anniversary. So though it was not 100% true, it wasn't false too. This works almost every time. She was very sweet. I hope she didn't see the element of surprise on my face.

We made our ready to eat lunch and had it with local french bread that we had bought. Had some nice milkshake.
It was still raining outside and was cold and breezy. From our apartment we had the best view of the lake and the alps beyond. We were stunned by the wonderful view from our apartment. It had everything that Switzerland had to offer. We decided to gaze at it and just laze around on the cosy bed and get the much needed rest. The two of us slept in the afternoon while the girls checked their whatsapp and FB messages on Wifi. We got up at 4.30 pm. Had a cup of hot coffee and cookies.

We had cancelled our sightseeing plan (Lauterbrunnen valley and Grindelwald) on that day due to rains. But decided to explore the area around. Left at 6 pm.
We drove 5 minutes downhill to the shores of lake Thun. It looked like a busy road connecting Interlaken. Parked at a designated parking lot next a lake side café. Parking was free after 6.30 pm. We had a lazy stroll along the shore of Thunersee, admiring the beauty for about an hour. Drove back to the hotel. We missed one turn and entered a tunnel that took us almost till Interlaken. Took a turn back and reached hotel. Had a wonderful dinner on the dining table. There was a blue light in the sky. We saw one of the most glorious sunsets from our deck, while we enjoyed our desserts. The Sun was glowing through the clouds. It was getting very cold. It was a good idea to look for a place with a view, or this rainy day would not have been memorable.
I was hoping to have good weather the next day, so that we could visit some quaint places. We slept at 11 pm.

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View towards Spiez
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View towards Interlaken.
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Our beautiful Chalet.
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The panoramic view from our apartment.
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The cafe on the lakeside
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a relaxed time on the lawns
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Stroll along Thunersee
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We had a tranquil time which helped us forget the feel of being on a trip and looking forward to something, rater than living in the moment.
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Sunset from deck
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Cosy dinner
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It looked so ethereal in the blue twilight. The pendant light reflecting in the window. People must be so lucky who can have this view for a lifetime. Such moments make me feel like giving up my city life and settle down in some tranquil village surrounded by nature.



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