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-   -   A 5 weeks’ Family Road Trip through French Countryside-May-June 2015 (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/a-5-weeks-family-road-trip-through-french-countryside-may-june-2015-a-1679987/)

Paragkash May 3rd, 2020 05:17 AM


Originally Posted by Coquelicot (Post 17098385)
This continues to be fascinating. You packed a lot into each day. The warm colors of the buildings kind of surprise me; I think of warm colors as more like southern France.

Coquelicot, thanks a lot for the compliment. It means a lot when it comes from an avid traveler like you.

Paragkash May 3rd, 2020 05:19 AM


Originally Posted by geetika (Post 17098862)
Your pictures are absolutely stunning, the one with the dark clouds over the landscape looks like a water colour!
Normandie also has a lot of half timbered houses, though I don’t seem to remember these rusts and browns, need to go back and look at my pictures again...

Thanks Geetika for your encouragement. Hope this report continues to keep you engrossed in the times of lock down.

Paragkash May 3rd, 2020 05:23 AM


Originally Posted by rhon (Post 17099198)
The Alsace is lovely and your photos show it at its best. We have only spent a week there and that was way back in 2006. It really makes me want to return. One of the things we really enjoy about travelling around France is seeing how the house styles vary from region to region. The Alsace is very different, but the more areas you visit, the more differences you can see.

Thanks Rhon. You framed it correctly. France manages to retain your interest by offering you variety in all respects, including architecture, people, landscape and wines.
It remains my favourite place in France and wish to return again for a week, this time from Germany.

Paragkash May 3rd, 2020 05:30 AM


Originally Posted by kerouac (Post 17099616)
I am always thrilled whenever anybody promotes Alsace like this even though it has now become too popular during the summer months, especially with German tourists, who find it really exotic. That's what makes me laugh when people call Alsace "Germanic" -- the Germans don't think so at all. :lol:
If one good thing come out of the current health situation, it will be that a lot of pressure will be taken off the main tourist sights and those who manage to travel will be able to see them at their best.]

Yes, that's the beauty of Alsace. It has a blend of both the cultures, that makes it the most beautiful region in France. If one has a week more besides Paris, this is the place one should come to. It also retains that small village feel, just like the Romantic strasse or Vin strasse in germany.

"I am anxiously awaiting the next installments of your report.

"
Thanks kerouac. This surely keeps me going. I hope I keep you engrossed enough.

Coquelicot May 3rd, 2020 06:28 AM

Glad to see this latest installment. You know how to enjoy your travels, even down time. You lucked out on your lodgings so far.

I guess it's not too early to wish you and your wife a happy anniversary sometime this May or June!



Paragkash May 3rd, 2020 07:20 AM

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...709c69e800.jpg
Glorious sunset at Krattigen, Switzerland
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Some light moments on this free day
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Poorva made friends with the owner's cute dog.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...62d5fb2ec5.jpg
The owner Mrs Naja is an antique collector and has a lot of antique furniture, statues and paintings all over

Paragkash May 3rd, 2020 01:57 PM


Originally Posted by Coquelicot (Post 17101246)
Glad to see this latest installment. You know how to enjoy your travels, even down time. You lucked out on your lodgings so far.
I guess it's not too early to wish you and your wife a happy anniversary sometime this May or June!

Thanks a lot Coquelicot..
Our 26th Wedding anniversary was on 26th June 2015. We couldn't celebrate our 25th because my daughters Architecture college admissions.
So this was our silver jubilee gift/ celebration vacation. So didn't feel much guilty about the room prank :)

Adelaidean May 3rd, 2020 02:23 PM

Lake Thun is so beautiful. We have stayed in Spiez and in Thun on different trips.
It really is enthralling watching the changing mood of the lake as the weather changes.

I’m enjoying reading your account, and your family time, so special to be able to share these experiences with them.

Paragkash May 4th, 2020 05:26 AM

Day 7- 22nd May 2016- Switzerland-

Scenic drive to quintessentially Swiss villages, onto Lake Annecy, France
Weather:
13- 18 Degree C, Overcast and cloudy till 4 pm. Sunny after 4
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db9aeca8d5.png
Day plan was to visit some famous and some not so popular villages and to enjoy the scenery of the Bernese Oberland while we drive on the Swiss Roads.
This was my dream day. Driving through small quaint villages, with farms, cows, rivers, meadows and mountains around. I had done a lot of research for these 2 days.
I had been here thrice earlier by public transport. Our day 1 was well spent relaxing in our chalet. We wanted to see as much as we could on day 2.

Got up at 6 am to a lovely view of Lake Thun. Packed bags and checked out at 8.15 am. Had the most lavish breakfast, personally supervised by the owner Mrs Naja.
We had fruits, juices, Cornflakes, eggs , dry fruits etc.
Lot of antique furniture, statues and paintings in the cafeteria; and of course it had the stunning view of the lake.
We thanked Naja for her kindness and left the hotel at 9.30 am (1 hour later than I had planned) Weather was good. It was cloudy, but was not raining.
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The temperature gauge was unique. It showed 12 Degree C
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This was the best breakfast we had in the trip. The owner saw to it that we got everything we needed and much more.



We drove to Lauterbrunnen (Lauter= Lot of; brunnen= waterfalls) valley. Flat road along the lake till Interlaken. Uphill road after that. The road many a times goes parallel to the river and railway tracks. Passed through small villages.
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This is probably the Switzerland's most visited part. Lauterbrunnen valley and Grindelwald has access to many snow capped mountain peaks like Jungfau.
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Road goes along lake Thun till Wilderswill and the turns right uphill to the mountains
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I have been coming to Switzerland for 15 years and more. Have been studying these roads, reading books and travelogues. I know these roads better than my own country roads.
These road signs fascinate me.

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The drive is very scenic throughout
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The road many a times goes parallel to the river and railway tracks

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...49835a1eab.jpg
The quaint village of Lauterbrunnen is a community of shops, hotels and red-geranium-festooned chalets, many with rooms and apartments to let. Lauterbrunnen is a staging area for higher ski slopes and hiking trails. We Passed Lauterbrunnen station.

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Big waterfall right after that, which is visible almost from everywhere. Big parking lot there.

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The best view is from the road after the church. Covers everything that is quintessentially Swiss. A river, small bridge across, a small church with its high spire, winding road going up around it. Swiss chalets along the road, lush green meadows, tall pine trees groves, High granite cliffs surrounding from all sides with snow on top of them, and a giant waterfall perennially flowing from top. The picture remains etched in memory forever. Poonam drove after this point. I clicked a zillion photos
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This is one of the most spectacular scenery in the whole world. A box canyon cut eight miles deep into the Alps and never more than about half a mile wide, lush on its floor, steep on its sides, with some 72 waterfalls, and rising above you the snow-capped peaks of the Jungfrau, Eiger and Monch.
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We drove to Trummelbach falls. Didn’t go in this time. Took a short photo-stop and a Bio break. We met a lot of Indian tourists who had come with a guided tour.
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Scenery becomes more breathtaking as we go deeper in the valley
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0eb0a6f56f.jpg
Quaint villages along the road. If one has only one day in Switzerland, one should spend it here.
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We drove ahead into the valley, till Stechelberg where the motorable road ended. It is very dramatic and scenic. One feels dwarfed by the huge surrounding mountains. I remembered Lauterbrunnen when I first visited Yosemite Valley.
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There are many small villages with Chalets, lush farms, on either side.
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cows with bells, their sound mixed with a background music of waterfalls, smell of the alpine air with its chill; all this cannot be captured in any script or a movie. One has to be there.

We had gone up the mountains 5 years ago, to Murren by a cable car which was very thrilling.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab9504d612.jpg
We drove back towards Interlaken and took a right turn uphill towards Grindelwald
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https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cee1c2aa74.jpg
And a bit farther. Quaint village. We could see the valley below. Very picturesque area. There are lot of hiking trails. This is also a place where one takes a cable car up to Jungfrouch peak
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Grindelwald
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Mountain goat sculpture
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Grindelwald Bahnhof
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This view was overwhelming.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37b059d937.jpg
quaint villages beyond Grindelwald.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b587bbf179.jpg
This is what we were looking for. Unknown tranquil places.

Our motto wasn’t to see the typical touristy places but some offbeat places. So we turned back and drove to Kandersteg, a very small and pretty village. Picture post card place. Beautiful church next to the river and the bridge. Loved walking in the village centre. There are several walking trails from here. We will do those next time. This year, France was our main priority. Bought some grocery from Coop.
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back till Spiez along Thunersee
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8963c9220d.jpg
On the way to Kandersteg
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We passed a small tunnel to end up on the other side of the mountain, on our way to Kandersteg.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...afd47953e8.jpg
Picture perfect Kandersteg. It is well known among the hikers and walkers, but a usual visitor who visits Switzerland for 8-10 days fro the 1st time, never comes here.
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https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...07e02f9e7a.jpg
The peaceful holiday resort with about 1000 inhabitants with all its wooden chalets has maintained its village character
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Wooden interiors of the ancient Kandersteg Church.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e0a3da1130.jpg

We drove to Saanen via Spiez. Winding roads through mountains, valleys. Very pretty countryside. We followed the Golden Pass route. Reached Saanen via Zweisimmen by 3.15 pm. This is the region where one of the most famous n a Cult Indian (read Bollywood) movie is shot. The church. Station. Air strip. The bridge across the river near the station. Some road repair work going on there. Went to the church. We had a brief photo stop. Though the church interiors in the movie is shot at Montbovon.

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Saanen Church
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Saanen Church interiors
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...efd53e61c2.jpg
We were not hungry as yet. The breakfast was too heavy. We still had some snacks and sandwiches and fruits here.
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Bernese Oberland is indeed the prettiest part of Switzerland.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8a3392b6e2.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c93e97a66.jpg
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Snow shelter above the road makes sure that the traffic moves smoothly even in the harsh winter.
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A beautiful small church near Chateau De Ox
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Chateau de Aigle. There is a nice Wine museum inside.We almost followed the route of Golden Pass Express scenic rail journey, from Spiez to Zweissmmen, Saanen, Gstaad area of Bernese Oberland, the going down the mountains to the plains near Aigle, then onto to Chillon Castle, Montreux. We had stayed at Torgon near Aigle for 8 days in 2010 and done several trips on this Aigle-Montreux route by train. Had explored the area around well, like Montreux, Lausanne, Geneva, Gruyeres, Bern. It was nostalgic. We loved it. The road skirts along the Lake Leman (shared between France and Switzerland) towards French border. Then to Evian (famous for its Mineral water and Casino). We filled petrol at Evian. Beautiful scenery all along.
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It was sunny and comfortable by then.
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The road skirts along the Lake Leman (shared between France and Switzerland) towards French border.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...437b8a8e1b.jpg
We got some beautiful pictures.
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Crossing border from Switzerland to France.
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Driving through Evian. We had been here in 2010.

Yvoire – a Medieval Floral Town on Lake Geneva, France

We reached Yvoire after driving on scenic routes for 8 hours and 180 km in the day by 5.30 pm. We parked for free on the road just outside the village. Visted the Tourist office just opposite the entrance gate, for information.
Yvoire, named one of the “hundred most beautiful villages in France”, is a small but very romantic small village (population ca. 800) on the southern, French shores of Lake Geneva.

http://www.france-beautiful-villages...ages-of-france
I would rate it among the 1st 5 of the most beautiful 100 villages in France. The preserved fortified village is well known for its floral display and has been awarded by the International Trophy for Landscape and Horticulture. It is also listed as one of the best Floral Village with 4 **** flowers status in Ville fleurie. It is particularly attractive during spring and summer when it is filled with flowers blooming from seemingly every balcony and window sill
https://www.france-voyage.com/cities...euri-label.htm

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...90b380d47a.jpg
Really this village has everything. First of all it is a beautiful medieval village.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...319f4319cd.jpg
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It is a very attractive little village, dating back some 700 years. The stone doors through the ramparts, and the chateau, are existing remnants of this earlier more turbulent time. Because of its strategic position between the 'small lake' and 'large lake' the village was fortified in the early 14th century and for 500 years or so it had an important military role in the region. When times became calmer Yvoire reverted to a village dependent on farming and fishing but luckily kept the key features of its important past.

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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...48e86cf4d4.jpg
It has lots of nice boutiques and bars and restaurants.
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This traffic free village has managed to preserve much of its medieval look with town walls and gates, a historic castle on the shore, and narrow cobblestone streets.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...de19f09832.jpg
We reached The Place du Thay, the main square in the village where there is the church. All alleys lead to this place.
After the castle, the Church of St Pancras is the most visual historic sight in Yvoire. This small church dates partly from the eleventh century but it is a mixture of different architectural styles.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...380b89e720.jpg
Its most conspicuous feature is its onion-shaped stainless steel clock tower and steeple, which gleams in the sun and can be seen from far. The stainless steel structure was erected in 1989 to replace a tin original from 1854.

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It's position on the edge of the lovely Lac Leman with walks along the water's edge and small boats bobbing on the water in the small harbour makes it unique and most picturesque. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6453051220.jpg
Château d’Yvoire still dominates the small town today, as it must have done back in the middle ages. The castle (a private property- we could not enter.)is a typical Savoy design and reminds of many other medieval castles in the Lac Léman region, very similar to Chillon castle. Yvoire Castle looks the part with turrets, towers, few windows, and thick walls. Has a big French style garden inside. It has a commanding position right on the banks of Lake Geneva.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...72aab6d95c.jpg
Its streets are full of medieval buildings - alpine style - with stone walls, steep roofs, wooden balconies and shutters and from all around the village views of the castle and the church steeple.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a2cc7d6486.jpg
There is water on two sides of the village.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b28430df2.jpg
Every shop, boutique, cafe is tastefully done and is oozing with a lot of creativity.
We would have loved to sip a coffee in one of them. But we had to reach or hotel before it was dark.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9bec1c3700.jpg
We strolled through the narrow alleys and town gates, clicked many photos. It was a memorable visit. I was happy that we came via Switzerland and could visit Yvoire enroute. It would have been difficult otherwise, looking at our schedule for next 3 days.
We were still around 90 km and 2 hours away from our new resort. We left by 6.45. Drove through beautiful white mountains similar to Dolomites in Italy, Slovenia and Austria and awesome lake scenery right till our destination Doussard. We were in a very small village on the southern bank of Lake Annecy. Reached by 8.45 pm. There was still bright light around. We were on Target :)
Our villa was locked. Neighbour Eric and his wife helped us get inside the Villa and called the owner. He came and collected the cash. The young guy has a restaurant in Annecy and lives in the villa next to ours. It was a lovely 3 levelled well-furnished 2 bedroom villa with great views of the Alps and the meadows. It had a big lawn and a Trampoline too.

We had biryani and ready to eat vegetables, bread, yogurt for dinner.
We love this part where all of us share the responsibility of cooking, washing, cleaning etc.
Back home, all these are done by cooks and maids and we don't get a chance to hone our skills :). Packing is taken care of by DW. Planning and execution is my responsibility.
Dispensing Vitamin Tablets is given to my younger DD. We call her Vitamin Minister :)

We could see fabulous dark sky from our 1st floor bedroom and even better through the dormer window in the roof of the 2nd floor children's bedroom.
It was a memorable, long and fruitful day. Our next day plan was even more exciting.
We slept looking at the stars by 10.40 pm







kerouac May 4th, 2020 06:20 AM

I am a big fan of Switzerland as well as the French south side of Lac Léman. I disagree with the numerous people who say that Switzerland should be avoided because it is too expensive. While yes, it is at least 30% more expensive than France, you can easily offset the difference with careful shopping at Coop or Migros for food. And all of those chocolates in the dedicated aisles are outrageously cheap. I always return to France with several kilos to distribute to my friends.

Just avoid most of the restaurants.

Paragkash May 4th, 2020 06:41 AM

kerouac, You are right. If you rent a self catering apartment and make your food, avoid restaurants, Switzerland has a lot to offer for your buck.
The Swissrail pass covers intra city, intercity travels, Lake cruises, admissions to 400 plus museums, half fare to most of the Mountain peaks.
It was a great deal when it used to allow a child below 16 for free with a parent. A family of 4 of us could travel for 2 adult passes, 5 years ago.
Even with a car, Switzerland is a great deal. Its even better if one rents a car in Italy, Germany or Austria. Car rentals are expensive in Switzeland.
The scenery is the best in the world.
My daughters' opinion differs from mine. They feel that Switzerland is extremely beautiful and scenic. But it's more or less monotonous after 7 days. It is like 7 courses of sweet desserts. It doesn't offer the variety like France, Turkey or Italy in terms of Scenery, Architecture, history and weather.

I do want to stay in Switzerland for 3 weeks if I get a chance.

geetika May 4th, 2020 11:47 AM

My husband and I used to go to Switzerland quite often when we lived in Paris in the eighties, not many tourists then, especially from India. I went back in 2006 with my siblings and mom and everywhere there were bus loads of Indian tourists, all ticking off spots which featured in movies. Even the restaurants cater solely to the tour groups, one place turned us away even though we requested they seat just mom, who was old and vegetarian!

DH and I were in Zurich and Geneva on work a few years back but didn’t see many tourists, they probably head straight out to the mountains and avoid the cities.

I agree with you that France offers an amazing variety to the visitor, everyone can find something to his taste...

kerouac May 4th, 2020 11:54 AM

They shoot scenes of plenty of Bollywood movies in Paris, too. Nothing wrong with that. After all, we still put up with all of the Hollywood movies that are shot here.

Paragkash May 4th, 2020 12:44 PM

[QUOTE=geetika[/QUOTE]
Switzerland and now Spain have become the most favorite destinations for Indian tourists because of Bollywood movies.
Many people in India and even from other countries, travel to tick boxes, been there ..Done that.
We too initially travelled extensively n ticked many boxes. But also visited some offbeat places.
Now, I run away from big cities and the most popular attractions. Haven't seen Monalisa after 1999. Though I visited Paris several times after that.

Coquelicot May 8th, 2020 02:53 PM

Parag, I'm with you as regards rural scenery. I love all the small country roads that wind and climb and dip, passing by herds of cows or sheep, crossing rushing streams on small bridges, and going through a picturesque village every now and then.

I'm looking forward to seeing your photos of the France part of your trip.

I hope you're enjoying writing your trip report as much as we are reading it.

geetika May 9th, 2020 02:30 AM

Paragkash, every morning I check for a new installment of your travels​​​​​. Reading your TR is like a tonic in these times of lockdown, more so since there have been a few rather unfortunate comments recently on some threads.

We’re all hunkered down in our homes with international vacations on hold for quite a while to come, but we can travel vicariously with you and your pictures...👍

Paragkash May 12th, 2020 12:41 PM

Day 8- 23rd May 2016,- Saturday - Chamonix (HAUTE-SAVOIE- 3 nights 2 days)
WEATHER- 16 DEGREE C- BRIGHT SUNNYhttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...edb144e99e.png
We had planned to visit Chamonix and Montblanc this day. We had earlier planned going there in 2010 when we were near staying for 7 days near Aigle ,Switzerland and were very close, but had to cancel the plan because of bad weather,
Got up at 7.30. Had hot coffee and tomato Cheese sandwich for breakfast. Left at 9.30 am. (One hour later than our target again) Its important to reach there early if the weather report is good. By afternoon, it becomes cloudy up there.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a1f763d47d.jpg
We had a beautiful 2 bedroom villa, with a living, dining kitchen on the ground floor.
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Fabulous view from the top floor dormer window.. Cows grazing in the farm.
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Priyanka enjoying trampoline before we left in the morning
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It was bright, sunny and cheerful morning. We had one of the best view from our villa itself. Lush green meadows, picturesque village, cows in the farms, majestic mountains all around.
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Poonam cleaning the car glasses before we left. We loved our villa and its location. The scenery around was so beautiful, that we didn't feel like leaving.

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It was a 75 km distance. But it took us 2.30 hours to reach. I am surprised at the date on this map. I was ready with it 6 months prior to our trip. Usually these are done in the last month.
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The roads were excellent
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there were tunnels and bridges en route.
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We had beautiful alpine scenery on our way.
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We passed through Megeve Alpine village. It has a distinction of 3 flourie category. It was picturesque. We didn't find it very interesting.

Road via Ugine and Flumet was uphill, winding and slow, but scenic. We drove through Megeve, a pretty alpine village famous for skiing.

We reached Chamonix by 12 noon. We parked at the underground pay and park near a roundabout near the village centre. (6.60 Euros for 4.30 hours)
There was a weekly market at the plaza in the town centre. We had pizza slices and croissants on the way.
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Weekly market in the village square has fresh farm produce, flowers, plants and food stuff.
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Every balcony has these beautiful flowers. People take so much efforts to make each corner beautiful.
Chamonix:
In the shadow of Mont Blanc's majestic snow capped peak is the traditional alpine village of Chamonix - a quaint little town filled with historic churches and charming auberges (inns). Chamonix has been a world-renowned ski resort.
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Chamonix is renowned for its upscale atmosphere and fancy boutiques.
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Chamonix is indeed very picturesque.
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Statue of Balmat and Saussure.The statue in Place Balmat actually commemorates de Saussure, and shows him with Balmat who went on to accompany the geologist to the top of Mont Blanc in 1787.
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Chamonix has many picturesque churches. The tourism office is right next to it. We collected the necessary information from there.
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Interesting building facade
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The alpine water in the fountain is pure and potable.

We walked about 1 km till the tourist office and another 1.5 km till the Gondola station.
Reached the ticket office by 12.30 pm. It was quite sunny in the morning but a bit cloudy now. There is a live view of the top on the screens next to the ticket window. We should have reached atleast an hour earlier. But it was still clear and we had a very little time. We didn't want to miss it again.Mont Blanc is the highest peak in Europe. It lies at the intersection of the 3 countries; France, Switzerland and Italy.
The Aiguille du Midi is a 3842m peak in the Mont Blanc massif of the French Alps. This is the closest you can get to the summit of Mont-Blanc without hiking or climbing.
It is the highest mountain peak served by an aerial lift system. The name translates literally to "Needle of the Mid-day". The mountain lies to the south-east of Chamonix and when viewed from in front of the church it indicates that it is noon when the sun passes over its summit.

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The beautiful church and the tourist office next to it in the centre of the town.
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Interest architecture
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Ticket office to Aigle du Midi Gondola
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Gondola station
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Valley looks so beautiful
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Views are breathtaking.
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We took 4 tickets (219 Euros) to Aigle Du Midi. One needs to change 2 Gondolas to reach till the top. We reached by 1 pm. Breath-taking views of the valley and snow-capped peaks on the way.
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The 1st gondola ride
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The ride becomes increasingly steeper and more thrilling. This is the highest cable car in the world.
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What a feat of engineering. Can't imagine how they must have constructed this at such a high altitude.
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The top most point, the needle.
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Mountaineers getting ready for their expedition. Saw a lot of skiing and hiking enthusiasts and pros.

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We were lucky to get clear skies and could see all the peaks.
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It was so windy and chilly outside.
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Souvenier shopping At the 4 level terraces and souvenir shops.
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According to me, these are death defying stunts.
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The Aiguille du Midi cable car holds the world record for the highest vertical ascent: 2807m (from 1035m to 3842m). This is the closest you can get to the Mont Blanc on a lift system. From here, there is no cable car to the summit of Mont Blanc. The station of the Aiguille du Midi has several terraces where visitors can take in the spectacular views of the French, Swiss and Italian Alps.

Among other peaks, Dome du Gouter (4304m), Refuge Vallot (4362m), Mont Maudit (4465 m), Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m) and, of course, the summit of Mont Blanc (4810m) can be seen. On a clear day, it is possible to see the Matterhorn (4478m), the Monte Rosa (4634m) and the Grand Combin (4314m).
At the North Tower, there is a cafeteria and a snack bar open year round. In summer, the "3842" Restaurant is open. Situated at an altitude of 3842m, this is one of the highest restaurant in the world.
The Aiguille du Midi has its own postage stamp and a letterbox. Postcards and stamps are available in the souvenir shop, open all year round.
At the cable car departure arrival/departure point, there is a History Area featuring the story of the station. Also, the machinery of the lift system is showcased through glass windows.
It was -9 degree Celsius temperature outside and was very windy. We could get great views all around. It was worth every second spent there. We clicked a lot of pictures, did some souvenir shopping and left the top at 2.30 pm.Walked to the parking lot and drove out. There is a large parking lot right next to the Gondola station. It would have been wiser to get a map of the town with us and to park in this parking lot. Would have saved valuable time & energy and we could have had better weather. Here it is generally clearer in the mornings and gets cloudy in the later part of the day. One must always check the weather before planning a trip to Chamonix and Mont Blanc.

On our way back, near the Chamonix Railway station, 2 policemen stopped us for no reason. They checked our passports, International Driving Licence and other documents which were in order. He gave me back the papers and almost as an after thought, looked at the back seat and noticed that my daughters were not wearing seat belts, as we had just stopped for the police inquiry and they removed the belt as we stopped the car. They charged me 90 Euros for this, as if he had to charge us with something, as he didn’t find anything else. No amount of pleading helped. He looked vindictive and left a bitter taste in what was a dream tour.

We drove back the same way which is quite curvy and strenuous. We probably felt it more because of the shock of the policemen stopping and charging us for no apparent fault. This trauma stayed with us till we completed our tour. It would be wiser to take the flat toll road to Annecy which runs through the valley.

We bought Milk, grocery, bread etc. from the Carrefour enroute. Reached apartment by 6.45 pm. Had dinner, wrote some notes, called back home on video call and slept by 10.30 pm.
View from our dormer window at night was just awesome.
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Colourful sky at the dusk over the daughters' bed, through our roof.





Paragkash May 12th, 2020 12:57 PM


Originally Posted by Coquelicot (Post 17103310)
I'm looking forward to seeing your photos of the France part of your trip.

I hope you're enjoying writing your trip report as much as we are reading it.

Coquelicot, thanks for the encouragement.
I am thoroughly enjoying writing the trip report, its reliving my dream again.
I am glad that you are enjoying it too.
Thanks

Paragkash May 12th, 2020 01:07 PM


Originally Posted by geetika (Post 17103404)
Paragkash, every morning I check for a new installment of your travels​​​​​. Reading your TR is like a tonic in these times of lockdown, more so since there have been a few rather unfortunate comments recently on some threads.

We’re all hunkered down in our homes with international vacations on hold for quite a while to come, but we can travel vicariously with you and your pictures...👍

Geetika, its so encouraging to read your posts. It gives me the necessary booster to write the rest of the report.
We have to do the house work ourselves and have distributed the work among all the family members.
We have a large joint family of 9 people living in a large apartment. The work and conference calls keep me busy for some part of the day.
I have also taken it on myself to entertain the elders, my mom and mom in law, plus others in the family. We all watch a movie at 8 pm daily on our large screen home theatre.
The re-living of my dream tour is what I look forward to throughout the day. Have notes, photos, maps. Combining them takes a bit of time. I am loving it.
Am thankful to you for all the kind words. Am happy that you all are travelling with me.

Adelaidean May 13th, 2020 01:47 AM

I look forward to your instalments, too.

Your photos make me smile and I like reading about your experiences/ your joys/ ...but sorry to hear about your fine.


Paragkash May 13th, 2020 06:32 AM

Day 9- 24th May 2015-Sunday Lake Annecy,
Weather: 18 Degrees C- Bright Sunny.

Driving: 50 km
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It was supposed to be a relaxed day. We didn't have too many things on our agenda. Just wanted to soak ourselves in the surrounding nature. The next day was supposed to be a long day.
Got up at 6.30 am. Sunrise used to be at 5.30 am. Had egg omelettes and coffee for breakfast.
We still had the bitter residue of the traffic Police episode of the last evening. Such incidents shakes one's confidence of driving in a new country, especially when you cannot speak their language. We were only on day 9 and had a long 28 days' journey ahead of us. We needed to be upbeat.

We left by 9 am towards Annecy town. Very scenic area. We decided to drive a full circle around Lake Annecy in a clockwise direction.

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Doussard itself was very beautiful, a part of The Bauges massif Regional Nature Park. This park, which extends over 81,000 hectares, protects impressive limestone cliffs as well as beautiful landscapes of forests and alpine pastures, high meadows.

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It is surrounded by a rampart of limestone white cliffs that dominate the surrounding plains.
The village is flat and is used as a landing field by many paragliders, usually after they've taken off from the nearby Col de la Forclaz.

Our first stop was at the picture post card Chateau Duingt along the lake.
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Chateau de Duingt is a magnificent Chateau sitting on the edge of the lake in the beautiful, quaint, floral village of Duingt. Montblanc sits on the other side of the lake, both great photo opportunities. This one is typically Swiss and reminded us of the Yvoire Castle and Chateaux De Chillon at Montreux, Switzerland.
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This luxury hotel has one of the best view on the planet.
We met a diving couple there. They told us that they dive 40 to 50 meters deep and the 1st 10 meters depth of the water is not very clear, but below that it is crystal clear and tranquil with very few fishes. This lake is supposed to have the clearest water in Europe.
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We really enjoyed our visit to Duingt. This is a typical French/Swiss style village with lots of charm and character. The historic buildings alone are worth the venture and the Chateau is impressive set in such scenic views and by the fantastic Lac de Annecy.

It was a sunny day and people were out celebrating it by doing lot of outdoor activities, like surfing, scuba diving, boating on the lake. We bought Pizzas, Blackberries, Potato chips and milk at Carefour to eat n drink on the way. As we drove towards Annecy, the traffic increased. We tried parking in 3 pay and park parking lots, but all were full. We drove past the old city centre. We were lucky to get free parking in the residential area about 1 km from the centre, opposite the Jardins D’Imperial.
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We walked a kilometre along the lakefront to the old town of Annecy.
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Water in the lake Annecy was so crystal clear. The swans, almost like ballerinas, add glamour to this serene lake.
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We walked along the lake to the centre. Very scenic and pleasant walk. Lots of local people were playing basketball and other sports in the park along the lake. People were boating, cycling, running, skating, sunbathing. I was happy that we came here on a sunny Sunday and could be a part of the local people’s celebration. Looked like the whole town was celebrating out along the lake .
We went to the tourism office, learnt about some history, took map, used the toilets alongside. We walked small lanes of the old town. Went to the church 1st. The town has concentric canals and markets along them. Chateau in the centre. We had chocolate crepes. Charming and bustling town.
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Nestling between the mountain behind and the shore of the lake, Annecy is one of the most picturesque cities in France.
Running through the middle of the old city, the river Thiou is flanked by narrow quays or by buildings rising directly on the riverbank. The old city is also crossed by the Canal du Vassé, and it is the presence of these two waterways, and of other man-made canals, that has earned Annecy its nickname of the "Venice of the Alps".
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We spent hours wandering through the narrow streets of Old Annecy. Virtually the whole of the old city is a pedestrian area. With their colourfully painted houses, arcades, boutiques, cafés and restaurants, the streets and the riverside quays are an enchanting area just to wander round.

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What an interesting detail. A water spout in the shape of a frog, on the inner side of a well. That is the best part of wandering through place without any specific aim. We notice such small details, places and people.
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Notre-Dame de Liesse Church
The monumental neo-classical church was rebuilt between 1846 and 1851 after the previous edifice was demolished during the French Revolution. The only original element is the 16th century bell tower. The façade is typical of Sardinian neo-classical style with the sober façade surmounted by a classical pediment, but also its cruciform arrangement, the semicircular arches and semicircular window openings. The bell tower was built in 1539 on a base from the 14th century.
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Ornate interiors of the church.
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Inside, the elaborate high altar is dedicated to Notre-Dame de Liesse. It was nice to visit this place on a Sunday and be a part of the local ceremony. One of the non-touristy things that I like to do.


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Walking around Annecy old town is a real delight. With its charming canals, its flower-bedecked banks, its small delightful bridges and its beautiful houses with colourful facades,
The bridges were occupied by the street vendors selling various items.

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Annecy carries really well its nickname of Savoyard Venice. It was pleasant to stroll along its canals and walk around the lovely narrow pedestrian streets!
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It was a farmers' market on Sunday, where local farm fresh produce was being sold.
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We bought some strawberries and ate them while we watched people.
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Annecy is particularly visited for its location on the shore of Lake Annecy at the foot of the Alps, and for its very picturesque old city. Until the Middle Ages, the city was located on the top of a small rise to the east of the lakeside old city; but in 1107, a new city began to develop at the foot of the castle, on either side of the river Thiou, the outlet of the lake. This is the historic "old city" of today's Annecy.
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Streets were bursting with people, cafes, boutiques. Most of them were tourists. The place was absolutely vibrant.
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the most photogenic building in the old city the Palais de l'Ile, or the Island Palace, parts of which date back to the 12th century. Over time the building has served as a family home, a prison and a law-court. Today it houses an architectural heritage centre,
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We had some fries and burgers in the restaurant near the lake and relaxed for a while, after our walking tour of the charming town.
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Modern architecture in Annecy
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We walked back along the lake to our car
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Super bikes come out on Sunday mornings.

We drove back via Methon palace along the lake. There was a Sunday Flea market along the shore where local people had a garage sale. Walked and relaxed for half an hour on the shore. We could see the Chateau Menthon high up on the mountain.
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On the eastern shore of Annecy Lake, at the foot of the Roc du Chère, the village of Menthon-St-Bernard is dominated by its castle
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It was such a relaxing day. Away from the main tourist spot, we relaxed along the lake shore, where local young and old people came to have active and passive recreation.
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Le Palace de Menthon

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Surfing through a local Sunday Flea market is our favourite activity. Tells us about local people and culture.
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The fresh blackberries gave me company.
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This photo sums up the day. Sat on one of the jetties on the lake, removed my shoes, folded my trousers and immersed my feet in the cold clear water of lake Annecy. kept gazing at the azure lake and the mountains surrounding it. It was so therapeutic...

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We drove en-route, through a picturesque and charming old town of Talloires.

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Talloires was such a charming village.
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Talloires, is a small village located on the eastern shore of the beautiful Lake Annecy. Ideally situated in a charming setting at the foot of the sharp rocky ridges of the Dents de Lanfon and the Tournette mountain

We reached back by 4.30 pm and relaxed. Sat is outside our villa. The meadows and the mountain scenery was outstanding. It was our last evening in Haute Savoie.
It was such a pleasant experience being here. This area is uniquely different than any other place in France.
We had pizzas for dinner. Packed our bags for the next day and slept by 9.30 pm as we had to check out and leave very early the next day.
It was going to be our longest day in the entire trip.

Paragkash May 13th, 2020 06:35 AM


Originally Posted by Adelaidean (Post 17105319)
I look forward to your instalments, too.
Your photos make me smile and I like reading about your experiences/ your joys/ ...but sorry to hear about your fine.

Adelaidean, Thanks for being with me. Hope you like the next installments too :)

kerouac May 13th, 2020 07:02 AM

Don't believe that you were singled out for the back seat belt law. I know dozens of people who have been caught on that one, including my parents. One thing that is good about a rule like that is that you never get caught again after learning your lesson, unlike speeding. (The main reason you don't get caught a second time is that people learn to pull on their seatbelts at top speed before the police get out of their car!)

Paragkash May 13th, 2020 10:17 AM

[QUOTE=kerouac;17105409]Don't believe that you were singled out for the back seat belt law. ]
Kerouac,
The cops took documents somewhere and took almost 10 minutes to verify them.
Why I felt bad was that, my daughters were wearing the seatbelt while the car was in motion. They removed it as we were waiting for 10 minutes for the cops. He gave me the documents n said that all was perfect. As an afterthought, he looked on the back seat n thought of charging me.
I tried explaining him. He did understand English. But he didn't change his mind.
In the entire trip, we never exceeded the speed limit. Adhered to all rules. More so because I had the red number plate which immediately showed that I am an expat.
There is always a slight fear when I am driving in another country. I am used to right hand drive cars. New roads, laws, language. Such incidents can shake one's confidence.
As you rightly said, these experiences make you tougher, wiser.

Coquelicot May 13th, 2020 11:05 AM

Parag, I sympathize. That was unfair. You and your girls were obeying the law. When something like that happens to me I try to get over it as quickly as possible.

My husband, Leadfoot, has gotten several speeding tickets in France. At the time we got the first one you couldn’t pay online with a credit card and so that time our fine escalated to a painful level before we managed to pay it. After the second ticket my husband became a more careful driver (but only in France). So I have forgiven him and hardly ever even think of those two fines that cost us a fortune.

Your photos today are especially beautiful.

Adelaidean May 14th, 2020 11:27 PM

Such lovely scenery, villages, and moments.

kerouac May 15th, 2020 07:23 AM


Originally Posted by Paragkash (Post 17105520)
.
I tried explaining him. He did understand English. But he didn't change his mind.
In the entire trip, we never exceeded the speed limit. Adhered to all rules. More so because I had the red number plate which immediately showed that I am an expat.
There is always a slight fear when I am driving in another country. I am used to right hand drive cars. New roads, laws, language. Such incidents can shake one's confidence.
As you rightly said, these experiences make you tougher, wiser.

You could have almost certainly challenged the fine and had it cancelled, but I understand that this seems too complicated when you are from a foreign country. Even as a French citizen, I have learned (the hard way) that you can only challenge a fine if you have not paid it. While it seems that it would make you a better citizen to pay the fine and challenge it afterwards, I have learned that if you pay a fine, it implies that you have accepted that you were guilty.

rhon May 17th, 2020 05:18 PM

I am continuing to enjoy your report and lovely photos. Sorry about the fine. We have been lucky in France but P did get one from Italy. It does put a dampener on the trip. We have never been stopped by police in France although we have seen them stopping other cars a couple of times. They waved us on so not sure why we were an exception.
Where to next?

Paragkash May 25th, 2020 10:44 AM

Day 10- 25th May 2016- MONDAY - A day of Breathtaking drive, Geological wonder, Beautiful old towns
Doussard to Luan Le Pins, Fench Riviera

Route Napoleon, Route De Gentelly, Sisteron, Les Mees, Castellane, St. Paul De Vence
Weather- 17 Degree C, Bright Sunny
Drive- 450 km, 8 hours

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This was supposed to be the longest day (8 hours drive- 450 km) and the toughest drive in the entire trip.
This was against our usual way of traveling, to drive more than 4-5 hours or 300 km in a single day.

I had planned it meticulously. As per our earlier plan, we were supposed take an overnight halt near Castellane and were to explore the natural wonder Gorge du Verdon. We changed it and covered the entire distance in a day so that we get 1 more day at JLP as this whole trip was planned in such a way that we could have a 5 days of family reunion with my Brother in Law joining in from London along with his wife and Son Hrithik who is the apple of everyone's eye. It was also to celebrate his 6th birthday.

The route from Doussard to Juan Les Pins on the Riviera combines the historic “Route de Napoleon” and mountain drive “Route de Gentelly”. As per Michelin Route planner

Partial toll route- 431 km (142 km -1.27 hours on motorway) - 7 hours- Toll 15 Euros
Non toll route- 438 km—8 hours (34km-23 min on Motorway)- which we took. This is more scenic as it goes through beautiful landscape and pretty villages. ViaMichelin calls it the Discovery route.
Leaving early was the key. We had to reach well before sunset. 5.52 am was the sunrise at Doussard. We completed all the check out formalities last evening. Packed our bags. Got up at 4.30am. Packed breakfast, had coffee and left at 6 am exactly as planned.
I goofed up a bit. I forgot my Cartier Wrist Watch in the cupboard drawer. The landlord was kind enough that he couriered it to my Paris Landlord upon my request. We then collected it in Paris.
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The route was a combination of scenic & historic Route Napoleon and a breathtaking Route de Gentelly. We were coming from the Rhone alps to Cote d' Azur on the French Riviera. The entire stretch is mountainous.

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Doussard and its surroundings were so beautiful. We wanted to stay longer.

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Beautiful limestone mountains
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The toll road runs parallel for a long time. There are mountain ranges around all throughout the route.

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I had read these names so many times while studying the route. Seeing these road signs was a happy experience. Only I could relate to it among us.

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Grenoble marks the beginning of the Route Napoleon. All these places have a lot of history and things to see.
ROUTE NAPOLEON:
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Napoleon Bonaparte and his army took this exact route in 1815 during their historic march from Elba to Grenoble en route to Paris, where he reckoned he’d redeem himself as Emperor of France and everything would come up totally milhouse once more. In reality, he lost the battle at Waterloo.
Napoleon was escaping exile from the little island off the coast of Tuscany that he’d been banished to following his capture and the basically disastrous collapse of the would-be French empire. So, in commemoration of his ballsy antics, the Route Napoleon as we know it today was opened up in 1932 and has been making road trippers’ dreams come true ever since.

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We were glad that we didn't take the toll road. One cannot see much from the toll road as the barricade on the sides blocks much of the view. One doesn't get a feel of driving through the countryside.
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The entire route and the landscape around was extremely scenic.

SISTERON:
The non-toll road till Sisteron via Albert Ville (25km) & Grenoble (120km) runs almost parallel to the toll road and is quite flat and was fast in the early morning. We reached Sisteron 10 minutes earlier than Michelin/ Google prediction, at 10 am- 250 km in 4 hours. Me and Poonam drove for 2 hours each. This was our first milestone and a pre-decided halt. We took a photo stop. Parked in a parking lot along the river.
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First view of the dramatic setting of Sisteron.
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Known as the "Pearl of Upper Provence", the town of Sisteron is located on the Route Napoléon, on the banks of the Durance river opposite Baume rock and is dominated by its imposing hilltop citadel.
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Sisteron was a picturesque town.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66ae04362f.jpgA quiet, scenic place to stop, Sisteron sits right on the banks of the River Durance (and was a stopping point for Napoleon himself during his march to Paris). With its dramatic citadel mounted at the top of town and cliffs hanging either side, it almost looks as though Sisteron has just barely managed to squeeze itself into this corner of the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence.
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https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e212b8f82f.jpgThe historic centre of this Provençal medieval fortified town is very picturesque and contains much built heritage of interest to walkers, including the Romanesque Notre-Dame-des-Pommiers cathedral, fortification towers, narrow streets lined with old houses and little squares decorated with charming fountains.
We wandered a bit on the bridge and along the river. Clicked some photos

LES MEES: AN UNUSUAL ROCK FORMATION AND A GEOLOGICAL WONDER

Les Mees WAS a 25 km detour from our main route.
This is an unusual natural volcanic rock formation which is a geological wonder. We remembered our Cappadocia trip in Turkey. The road goes along a man-made canal.

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Seen far away from the road, the Pénitents des Mées are a strange formation of rocks. The rocks are about 100 meters high each and extend 2 kilometres.
These are known as the "Pénitents des Mées" because of their silhouette. As legend has it, they represent the monks of the Lure mountain who were petrified (literally) by Saint Donat during the Saracen invasions as punishment for falling in love with the beautiful young "Mauresques" women that a feudal lord brought back from a crusade.

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The rocks resemble a procession of hooded monks with their pointed cowls, filled with shame because of their unholy desires, if one believes the legend...

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We waited and clicked a lot of photos, then went ahead to the village not too far from the rocks.
The village is situated at the foot of the narrow rows of the "pénitents".
In medieval times, the village was enclosed by a rampart and the remains of the gate-ways can still be seen today ("porte St-Christol", "porte Baudouine", "porte Bertrand de Bras").
Came back to the rocks site. There are some caves there too. It is a nice picnic area with a sit out and toilets. We had Egg sandwiches and drinks that we were carrying with us. We wanted to keep it light on a long day.

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Route Napoleon- stretch from Sisteron to Castellane

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CASTELLANE:Castellane is a tiny village hidden away in the mountains. at the northern end of the Gorges of the Verdon in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, It is a lively and historic town at the crossroads of the Route Napoléon and the Upper Verdon and Lavender road in the heart of the Regional Natural Park of Verdon.
It has had a very turbulent history since Roman times.
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Stunning view of the mountain top church and the stone bridge on the river.
The town itself is insanely picturesque with a stoney bridge marking its entrance from the mountains outside and the azure waters of the Verdon River running below. Crane your neck skywards and you’ll see the Chapelle Notre Dame du Roc perched on top of a soaring hill overlooking the town. The Roc is a geological wonder in the Verdon Valley. It protects the town of Castellane, which is nestled at the foot of this majestic block of limestone, and dominates the Verdon at a height of nearly 200 metres. The Roc became a historically listed site in 1933. The ancient village of Castellane dates back to the Middle Ages.

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https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8dcea74647.jpgThe Provençal old town is a maze of picturesque narrow lanes, fortified vestiges like the Tour Pentagonale (five-sided tower) and Porte de l'Horloge (clock gateway), and the beautiful Place Marcel Sauvaire square – the heart of Castellane's action. 34 Rue Nationale is a house where Napoleon stopped to lunch on 3 March 1815 on his return from the island of Elba. There are a handful of shops and cafes skirting the town center, including an incredible boulangerie serving up the best pain-au-chocolat around.

The village, classified "city of character", has preserved and valorized its cultural heritage, and three monuments are listed. It was a pleasant to stroll through the typical alleys with its houses with colorful facades.

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ROUTE DE GENTELLY:Termed as one of the 10 most breathtaking, ultimate drives, the D2, winding its way North from the town of Vence near the French Riviera, 962 metres up to the Col De Vence and beyond, has played host to many a launch, for it basks in typically Mediterranean sunshine most of the year and offers some of the best driving you’ll ever experience.

I was skeptical about our safety while driving on this route. I posted this question on Fodors Forum too.
a Bike rider who has written his travelogue about this ride..
"My heart raced as I pulled up to the wall that was probably no more than 12-14” wide that separate me from a sheer drop of close to 1,000ft to an unquestionable cause of death!
This would be the place of nightmares for the squeamish and in fact this road has been known to be closed to vehicles in certain weather conditions due to numerous deaths over the years. If you take liberties here it will be your very last mistake! A fall over the edge here and you are history in the time it takes to free fall nearly 1,000ft ,or more.

I showed the pictures and youtube videos to my elder daughter, who is quite adventurous, and she was very excited about it. she said "what is the point of going so close and not doing it" This is undoubtedly one of the best, scenic and breathtaking routes in the world and we didn't want to miss it.

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Opened in 1898, it was initially used for transporting wood but soon became a curiosity for tourists. Indeed, thanks to its location at the heart of a majestic cirque with breathtaking landscapes.

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It’s a kind of road not for those who fear heights. There is little room for error on these roads. It’s normal for your palms to sweat looking at those photos, imagine what it must have been like before the barriers. It runs as a single track road along the mountainside for some distance with nowhere to pass another vehicle. Here one says a prayer that nobody is coming towards you until the road widens some kilometres further.There is nowhere to pull over on such a narrow road anyway.

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It’s often referred to as one of the most spectacular roads in France. The road, soaring above the valley, goes through several tunnels, providing a mighty scenery for photos. Interesting enough, there are barely any people here – besides a few cyclists. The road still remains an adrenaline-pumping journey and is definitely not for the faint of lungs, heart, or legs
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The last 13 km of this route is called “Route De Gentelly” which is supposed to be one of the ten most exciting drives in Europe. It becomes very thrilling as it goes high up in the mountain along a narrow gorge and passes through stone arches. It started drizzling as we entered this route. We took a video of this drive. It is not risky as we drove at a speed of 30km/ hr. and enjoyed the scenery and the drive. There are similar stone arches on the main route as well. This was a 30 km detour. This was one of the highlights of our trip. One of the best drives till now. I would have repented if we would not have taken this route.

We drove to Cole de Vence and onto Vence, another 17 km. We stopped at a beautiful stud farm on the way. Rich people got their kids here for riding. There were super cars parked outside. This was the first ranch I have been to.

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Hill top village Vence.

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Red poppies in the spring

St. Paul De Vence:
We did not stop at Vence and proceeded to St. Paul De Vence. We parked outside the city gate in a restaurant parking. They were closed after lunch and would open again at 6.30 pm. We had covered 412 km from Doussard out of our 435 km of total Journey till 4.30 pm. We had taken numerous photo stops on the way, but were still on target. We were relaxed as we had covered most of our journey in time.
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That's the first enticing view of the village. Built on its rocky outcrop and surrounded by its ramparts built on the orders of Francois 1st, St Paul is certainly one of the most beautiful villages in Provence.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e2e553431.jpgA story told in stones could be its unofficial motto. Very well preserved old stones! A typically Provençal village, Saint-Paul is completely encircled by its 16th century ramparts built by the order of King Francis I.
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The chilled, unhurried way of life in St. Paul de Vence.
Tourists and locals playing together.
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Lot of chic art galleries in this town
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Village well
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The walls that raise the village on its roost are from the mid-15th century, and have not been changed since they were built. Above them, Saint-Paul-de-Vence isn’t much more than one street, Rue Grande, with enticing crevasse-like alleys and stairways branching off it.

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We walked around the narrow and so picturesque streets of the village, from the Porte Royale to the Porte Sud via the (pedestrianised) and you discovered magnificent stone facades from the XVIth and XVIIIth centuries.
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The village is a maze of charming streets, the floral exuberance of the gardens, the little shady squares, ancient fountains, gateways and porches, or wonderful windows.

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The Collegiate Church (14th-18th c)
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There are only 300 residents in this village. That could be the lowest in France. Other shop and gallery owners live outside in farms and villas around the village.

The 1950s and '60s were the village's Golden Age. Saint-Paul became an amazing film set, hosting French and foreign movie stars drawn to the French Riviera by the Victorine film studios in Nice and by the Cannes Film Festival. Jacques Prévert lived in Saint-Paul for about fifteen years, occupying a tiny house right in the centre of the village called La Miette. He acted as a magnet on other film directors such as Henri-Georges Clouzot and André Cayatte. James Baldwin and Marc Chagall lived in the village for almost 20 years, but opted for the peace and quiet of the surrounding countryside. For over a century now, Saint-Paul de Vence has been forging its identity as a hub of the arts and culture. Its reputation now extends well beyond the frontiers of the French Riviera, boosted by the famous Maeght Foundation inaugurated in 1964.


We wandered the pebbled streets of this pedestrian town. Stone houses reminded us of Yvoire. Lot of art galleries here. Lots of famous artists lived here and many galleries host their artworks. We fell in love with Saint-Paul de Vence.

It drizzled a bit. We sat in a small street side cafe. I had a mushroom pizza. ( I am a vegetarian, other three eat fish and chicken. Pizza is a safest bet for me.)
Both daughters had crepes and sandwiches.

From the restaurant, I called up the JLP landlord on Viber and requested to me meet us at 7 pm. The 23 km drive from ST Paul de Vence to Juan les Pins via Cagnes Sur mer and Antibes was scenic and took 30 minutes. Filled Petrol 30 E-(20 Ltr). We reached 6.55 pm which was about 45 minutes earlier than the planned tour.

Very few days go exactly as per the script. This was one of the longest drives through mountains. I was happy and relieved.

The apartment has a secured gate to its parking area at the back of the building. The gate lock opens with a remote. The apartment landlord Fernando came up, explained everything and took a deposit of and the rent for for 5 days in advance. He promised to come at 6.45 am on the date of check out, which he did and returned our deposit. Good points about it was friendliness of the owner Ivana and her husband Fernando. Willingness to meet outside check in or check out hours. It was a well equipped apartment, tastefully decorated. Had a dining table in the balcony, that overlooked the town. Also gave us basic kitchen supplies like spices, sugar, salt, oil, tea bags Secured parking Good location for people having a car. Also close to public transport, restaurants, grocery shops Nice sandy beach at 5 min walk. We stayed here for 5 days. Bedroom was a bit compact, but didn't bother us much. We should have taken a sea facing apartment to get the feel of the Riviera, but could not get an ideal one near Antebes. Choice of this location was deliberately kept a bit away from Nice, yet close to all the places in the Riviera.
We had some red wine, which was well deserved and very relaxing indeed.
We walked 6 minutes to my BIL's (Rajesh) apartment at 9 pm to collect his keys as his flight from London was delayed.
Came back to the apartment. Rajesh, lil Hrithik and my MIL came down at 11.30 pm in a red Renault Cleo to collect the keys. Hrithik was exited that the whole family had come to celebrate his 6th birthday. MIL and BIL were happy too. It was a nice and warm feeling to have a family holiday. The last time we had such a holiday was 5 years back in Switzerland when Hrithik was 1 year old.

We roughly decided the plan for next 4 days. Slept at 12.30 am. It was a long day and satisfying day indeed.

Paragkash May 25th, 2020 11:01 AM

Thanks
Coquelicot, Adelaidean, kerouac, rhon for your encouragement and kind words.

Challenging the fine would have meant we going to the police station with them. It could have been traumatic for my daughters, as they were feeling guilty too.
We were driving carefully, even more carefully now. The beauty of the French countryside made us momentarily forget the Cops and fine.
We almost recovered the amount paid to the French government when we took non toll roads. Though, that was the original plan to drive through countryside, we did also planned to take some toll routes earlier. We had a lot of time on our hand too. Fine was a minuscule amount in terms of the tour. But it gave us some kind of strange satisfaction :)
When I look back, in most cases, non toll road are much more scenic and relaxed.


Coquelicot May 26th, 2020 06:31 AM

Driving down those smaller roads is what, to me, gives the real flavor of France. You have some spectacular photos here. Vicarious travel is the only way we can stay in touch with France these days. Thank you very much!

I recognize the satisfaction of the trip planner when seeing the road signs in person that you'd been visualizing during your months of planning. Nobody else gets that but the planner.

I'm looking forward to reading bout the family get together and the little boy's birthday.

geetika May 26th, 2020 10:42 AM


Originally Posted by Coquelicot (Post 17109861)
Driving down those smaller roads is what, to me, gives the real flavor of France. You have some spectacular photos here. Vicarious travel is the only way we can stay in touch with France these days. Thank you very much!

I recognize the satisfaction of the trip planner when seeing the road signs in person that you'd been visualizing during your months of planning. Nobody else gets that but the planner.

I'm looking forward to reading bout the family get together and the little boy's birthday.

Yes, in these times we can only indulge our travel bug vicariously. Paragkash, your latest segment brought back happy memories of our first visit to the Côte d’Azur. Some 30+ years back DH and I spent the day before Christmas wandering around St Paul de Vence. Later that evening we attended midnight mass at the cathedral in Cannes, standing right at the back as there wasn’t any place to sit. Much later still we drove back along the Corniche to our lovely family run hotel at Cagnes sur Mer...the crazy things you do when you’re twenty something!

eigasuki Jul 28th, 2021 07:32 AM

Really enjoying reading your trip report, Paragkash; travelling with you in virtual terms and reminded of a somewhat similar (up to a point) I did, planned to coincide somewhat with the 2014 Tour de France. I took breaks from following the Tour spending a few days based in Zellenberg and visiting Strasbourg, Colmar, all the lovely villages. i then did the overnighter in Switzerland, as you did, en route to Lake Annecy, though I spent the night in Gruyere. I then spend a couple of chill days staying in Talloire. One day I did the boat tour of the lake with a visit to Annecy, next day I treated myself to lunch at the fancy restaurant and hung out by the pool. It's super cool to see pictures of places I visited - some of them similar, though better quality , to my own

Then I dropped off the car in Geneva and flew to Toulouse to pick up le Tour again. Looking forward to your Provence and Dordogne segments, which I did on a previous trip

I know what you mean by the thrill of seeing signage that matches your planning. Travelling by myself, thorough planning is necessary to avoid stress and possibly putting oneself at risk. As a west Australian, I never get over the thrill of seeing signs for more than one city, let alone other countries. I'll never forget seeing a sign for Barcelona as I was driving in France, I think as I was leaving Carcassone or somewhere in that area

reetuthakoor1170 Feb 20th, 2024 08:42 AM

Amazing report
 
Hello Paragkash, just finished reading your trip report and found it brilliant. We are family of 3 and are planning a 35 day trip this May and your itinerary was very helpful and gave us plenty of helpful tips.
I wanted to ask, how many total kms did you clock for the full trip?
Also, if you don't mind, I wanted to know what was the total expenditure for the trip. (I know it was a long time ago, but a rough figure will help us get an idea of how much will be spent since we are also going for roughly the same period)

HappyTrvlr May 26th, 2024 07:08 PM

Paragkash, I am thrilled to have found your France trip report. It is a treasure! Thank you.

Moderator1 May 26th, 2024 08:58 PM

This recently topped Trip Report was languishing on the Road Trips forum. We moved the thread to Europe and tagged it for France

Coquelicot May 26th, 2024 09:44 PM

I remember this trip report very well and am glad to see it surface again. I had always hoped the author would come back and tell us more. But, sigh, real life always takes over once we get home.

kerouac May 26th, 2024 10:55 PM

This is really an excellent report.

tomboy May 27th, 2024 06:13 AM

Too bad those two policement showed up to harass the family.
It must have really depressed the family, pouring cold water on their otherwise enjoyable trip, to cause them to cease writing the trip report midway.
And not resume over these four years.
It would have been delightful to read the missing half of their report: their take on Provence, the Midi-Pyreenees, Lot, etc.

If I knew how, I'd copy the "police" text from this post, and email it to the cops' HQ there, as well as maybe post it on the local TI turisme ofice, so that they could see how widespread the knowlege of their ugliness could go.

Paragkash May 25th, 2025 10:53 AM

Hi all,
I am trying to complete the trip report of the rest of the 27 days of total 37. It was a trip of a lifetime, on which I had spent a lot of time researching. I feel guilty of abruptly stopping it at day 10, when many of the friends here on the forum were engrossed and were traveling with my family.
I could not complete this trip report 5 years ago. It has exactly been 10 years since we travelled. And this has been haunting me ever since. It has been a thorn pricking me.
We had a lot of things going on at home during Covid, in a bio-bubble. Luckily, we all escaped unhurt. My hard disk with all the photos and notes got corrupted. I finally managed to retrieve all the information and photos.
I hope to complete it soon.



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