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Just trying to post a photo. If it works, it shows the town hall and our hotel in Wernigerode.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9bf27cfd8e.jpg Town hall and Hotel Gothisches Haus in Wernigerode back in 2010 |
Day 21: Quedlinburg to Leipzig
Used the Saxon Anhalt (regional) day ticket €35 as also valid on the Leipzig tram network. Added the Leipzig Move App for convenient ticket purchases while here. It was a 3 connection train journey, then a tram, and progressively more crowded as I approached Leipzig, from Halle it was a standing room only option, hot and no room to move. Leaving the Leipzig HBF for the local tram was an exciting entry into urban diversity, with fascinating dress and awesome makeup thanks to the Wave- Gothic festival, the worlds largest gothic festival https://www.leipzig-leben.de/wave-go...effen-leipzig/ I did not pack enough black to blend in. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b53996bff.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05d659448.jpeg waiting for a tram has never been so much fun.. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d299499d7.jpeg And 3 tram stops later, close to my accommodation, I pop into a local street produce market (with my suitcase lol) which is in an area popular with those of middle eastern background. Some very promising aromas from nearby kebab stores. But I was cooking tonight. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6c391163c.jpeg So convenient, HBF then tram, then 4 mins to apartment https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2fa4c47fb.jpeg Proving to my DH that I still know how to shop and cook… Picked up some fresh produce, located my apartment (so many apartment blocks here), and waited for my cousins to arrive. We had a wonderful evening catching up, and readying ourselves for our nostalgia tour tomorrow. Had an evening neighbourhood stroll, a lot of families in the local park, men playing soccer and basketball, kids on bikes, so different to our suburban life where we withdraw into our houses with our own gardens. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b39bd02e3.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d82769090.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...74619f313.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1307c9058.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5202a06a6.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d595ddef3.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3fd5355e3.jpeg |
Quedlinburg is heaven for a fan of timber-framed houses. Gorgeous!
And Leipzig is another favourite cities of mine. So vibrant, beautiful architecture, and easy-going. Very glad you can post photos again! |
Here I am! Here I am!! Frantically jumping up & down and waving from the back of the room.
I'm late to respond to your glorious report! But I have been here since the beginning, really enjoying your photos and notes. Those nighttime photos of Prague are just stunning, worthy of framing and hanging to get you through your next heat wave. I cannot tell you how many of my destination wish-lists were born from your photos! Lol but now I've cracked the code and realize it's how you find the quiet corners of the sweetest towns, and I'll probably be more discerning from here on. But really! You do serve up the best bunch of town-appetizers to tempt me with! Carry on! s |
Day 22: Leipzig (daytrip to Kohren-Sahlis)
We drove to Kohren-Sahlis today, an old Saxon pottery town, the childhood home of my father and aunt. The family had fled Silesia in January 1945 as the Russians were approaching, and became refugees Villagers were informed by the mayor that the River Oder was to be the ‘battleground’ where the Red Army were to be confronted. The village was evacuated, residents intending to return after hostilities were over. They left all belongings behind, assuming they would be returning soon. Most able bodied men were already conscripted into the army, so it was mostly women, children, and the elderly, in this convoy of farmers carts which carried those unable to walk. My grandmother took the 2 young children and whatever heavy warm clothing she could carry (she wore my grandfather’s boots). The villagers kept walking through that harsh winter until the surrender of Germany in May, arriving near the village of Kohren (350 km) where the refugee villagers opted to remain. His father, meanwhile, was injured in Czechoslovakia and then moved to a military hospital. His parents discovered each other’s whereabouts as the common point of contact by mail was family in Berlin. So my father, his sister and mother travelled by train to see his father in the hospital. Details sketchy after this (he was 8 years old), but he recalls returning by foot (80 km!) as no further trains, after days of walking. My grandfather later deserted the army, throwing his uniform into a river and stealing civilian clothing, returning to his family. This coincided with the shambles at the end of the war, so no repercussions/ imprisonment. So, they were reunited in troubled times, and started lives again with nothing. Property was nationalised and land was allocated and could be built on, and farmed, but one did not own it. Post war deprivation was less in the countryside, and his father was a resourceful man, a bricklayer in times where there was a lot of rebuilding needed, he built their home and bartered home grown foods and labour for other necessities. They had a goat or 2 and therefore milk and cheese, a pig, ducks, geese (sold for Christmas dinner), and rabbits, and a productive garden, a cellar to store winter vegetables. They occasionally travelled to Berlin to supply family there with food. They received produce as part of their wage for work on the farm opposite them (the Rittergut, a former manor house, nationalised under communism and now in the process of restoration). We had heard the stories of childhood and early education- school in the post war years (the unfortunate villager suffering years of wartime imprisonment in Russia, therefore learning the language and once he returned home he was required by the new regime to become the teacher of Russian at the local school, constantly reliving his nightmare), life’s hardships (eating flour soup/ potato peel soup, the many shortages), changing times as the region became Soviet controlled, the rise of Stasi informers, the need to be in the Communist Party to be promoted, the building of the Wall, yearning for adventure and escape to the West as a teenager. But also the good stuff, the Communist system valued education, guaranteed employment, disability support (a friend affected by polio had his mobility needs met in order to continue his education), and there was no speculative investment in property. Ironically, he lived about 30 km from Chemnitz where my mother was born. She left before strict travel restrictions were implemented, moved to West Germany, working until the glossy advertisements enticed her to emigrate to Australia. My father escaped in 1957 (his second attempt, the first time he was imprisoned for a short time) and lived in West Germany for awhile, until he too also took the ‘assisted passage’ option. They met in a migrant hostel in South Australia, and eventually moved to the outback. As so many of their friends they made in Australia were also escapees, we had heard a lot of their personal stories (a 15 year old Bulgarian secretly building a raft and successfully escaped) but I wish I had interviewed and documented them. Some stories from those who escaped https://listverse.com/2017/08/12/top...e-berlin-wall/ The Lives of Others is an excellent movie about the Stasi “the Stasi was one the most effective and repressive intelligence and secret police agencies in the world” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Lives_of_Others and Night Crossing about the hot air balloon escape https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/East_G...balloon_escape (the balloon actually landed near my aunt’s new home, she left East Germany before the border was controlled) Anyway, our day was very interesting, as my cousins had stories to share as we walked the village, past the house our grandfather built, the garden my grandmother created, the school and church the children attended, and the most incredible good fortune of wandering up to the Rittergut (manor house) to find a man there with the keys and willing to show us around. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e711e9582.jpeg The old manor house https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c59a09b4b.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c2c2c14de.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce5b35f0e.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf70b8732.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9e940b3a.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...077370ee6.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ef6d960c.jpeg It needs so much work https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3bcccd254.jpeg Aerial view shows the symmetry of the old gardens, and the pond behind, our grandparents house abutted the pond https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fdba2f058.jpeg the village below the church, school and towers https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6bb76067d.jpeg It is a small village https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...78944ba65.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa9600dae.jpeg Nice gardens https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e7a5225d5.jpeg Renovated homes https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...87bb9a6ad.jpeg Old pottery https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...94baf164b.jpeg Main Street https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...76f605842.jpeg The old school https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4216994b7.jpeg The new school https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...72a6c6987.jpeg The church https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...45dfe9bf8.jpeg The old school https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0504103ea.jpeg The pond is the family homes backyard Turned out he was the owner, a developer of historic monuments, who was working on obtaining investors in the project (? future education facility as its only 30 min from Leipzig, care facility, restaurant, special events eg wedding, concerts) but of course heritage requirements were pretty challenging and it has been so rundown in the years since reunification. https://www.chreans.com/aktuelle-pro...kohren-sahlis/ After the war and Soviet occupation, the Russians took much of value from the town, the locals helping themselves to what was left (my father remembers his father discovering a long thick woollen army coat, a real find, and had a seamstress remodel it into a jacket and skirt for his mother) We had a very quick visit to a house museum, with a collection of items from manor estates and farmhouses: furniture, Kohrener ceramics, textiles and hand weaving loom, even a salt cabinet as the house held the right to dispense salt. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...619ee4810.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4e09caa17.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b47772c8b.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...caae12d55.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bda593fd1.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...297d81c89.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8834777b1.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...72e72ae78.jpeg The salt cupboard https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8f3e40406.jpeg It was a 30 minute drive back to Leipzig, but in the early 1950’s my father (then 15 years old) used to catch the 4:07 am train from Kohren to Frohburg then on to Leipzig for a 7 am start at trade school. And get home at 7 pm. It was a very sentimental day for all of us. |
Day 23: Leipzig
Today I caught the tram to the city centre and met up with my cousin, at the St Nicholas Church (no entry possible due to service). This is the site where the weekly peace prayers occurred from 1982, until the massive peaceful protests in1989 which contributed to the collapse of the Communist regime (the peaceful revolution). 70,000 people were on the streets calling "Wir sind das Volk" (we are the people) https://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-50003305.amp We wandered the streets a bit, passing the old town hall, the St Thomas church, the passages and Art Nouveau buildings really add character and interest, enjoyed a fabulous lunch, had some interesting people watching throughout the day as Gothic festival participants continued to enjoy the long weekend, and took the train to the Monument to the Battle of the Nations (commemorates the defeat of Napoleon’s army at the 1813 Battle of Leipzig). https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...80d5c4a7f.jpeg The Leipzig train station https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...30927f59b.jpeg Heading to the centre https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b2f2b4235.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...580145eb7.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a84003103.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a77e42883.jpeg St Nicholas church https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6160fbf4.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fa6254dff.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5d7827b32.jpeg Passage https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eeda4fd0d.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a3f554f7.jpeg Old town hall https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1aab37a69.jpeg Everyone I asked was happy to be photographed https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...550a53a48.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...733dc4705.jpeg He has been to every Leipzig Gothic festival https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b11b2226a.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...864e17912.jpeg St Thomas church https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1e44f4420.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5147e4be9.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f690b1ee.jpeg So delicious https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cf17ebe63.jpeg Say that quickly… https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f67a34a29.jpeg The Memorial https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6cba74b2b.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c9dea66c.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...50ab36c7f.jpeg Welcome shade, it’s quite warm Our final evening spent on my balcony on this balmy evening. |
Yes, glad I can post again, Ingo, easier to keep track of things and post as I go, too hard once I get home.
swandav, you know I love the smaller places, so the city visits have been a bit unusual for me, I’m taking my time to feel more comfortable in them and getting around by tram. When the crowds and noise are too much, I take myself off to a garden or park. Cherthor, Kay, sassy, Hambaghale, thank you. |
What an experience it must have been, to be closer to your family and heritage. I hope I will be able to do this too someday.
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Wow, Adelaidean, what a fascinating family history! It must have been a VERY emotional day for you in Kohren-Salis, exploring the traces of your family.
I can relate, having lived all my life in the DDR/East Germany. My father is from German minority in Hungary and was expelled twice after WWII, the second time for good. Nowadays we cannot imagine how hard these times were. |
Day 24: Leipzig (daytrip to Chemnitz)
It is an hour train journey to Chemnitz Saxon-Anhalt day ticket €35 (rather than pay for tram, and x2 single €23 tickets) My mother was born in Chemnitz in Nazi Germany, before WW2. She had an unhappy childhood and her schooling was poor. The children missed school through the war years, and those who were allocated to work as ‘teachers’ during that time were not necessarily equipped to do so. The stories of the mistreatment of these poor children is shameful, my mother’s sister complained of a terribly painful, infected ear in class (parents would not have cared) and in response, the teacher slapped her hard across that ear; another time she had ‘the runs’, asked to be excused to go to bathroom, was denied this and soiled herself - teacher had other children encircle this humiliated child and sing “you’re a dirty pig”. The parents struggled with the challenges of survival during the war, but were unconcerned about the welfare of their unwanted children; and the 4 children stole food, foraged in forests eating raw mushrooms that caused frequent gastro, wore ragged, inadequate clothing, lacked any healthcare. Girls in her region and of her lower class were expected to marry or work in service or, as a result of a shortage of men through war, work in physical labor jobs. She completed her 8 years of general school in her local area, then had 2 additional years in the senior school further away, where she encountered students who were not at ‘the bottom of the heap’ like her, and it opened her eyes to another way of life, where parents cared for their children, their futures, and enabled opportunities. In order to escape her home life, she then opted for agricultural school for 2 years, which was a boarding situation. (She had a friend whose mother had died, the father was an alcoholic, the 5 children slept together in one straw mattress bed, with the youngest wetting the bed so they all smelt of urine. At age 14 the children had to leave school to work, and hand their father their pay. The 2 oldest colluded to not hand over their pay one week, and they only did that once, having received a brutal bashing. Beatings were common and bruised and battered children and wives were normalised) Following the war, East Germany (the German Democratic Republic) was under Soviet control and the focus was on seizing of industrial assets, denazification, land reformation, production, education and enabling women to enter the workforce (increased labor participation). War tends to lead to great social change: my mother believes that post war East Germany women’s rights were far ahead of West Germany’s - and that socialism did bring about enormous advances for poor women. This is interesting to me as I was most curious about the restrictions and surveillance and hadn’t considered that aspect. https://thetricontinental.org/dossie...atic-republic/ So, some welcome policies - childcare, education, training, work for all, women’s rights, health clinics, rent control, wage parity; but suppression of protests, limited consumer goods, food rations, general shortages, censorship, state surveillance of citizens and increasing restrictions on travel. And of course, high-ranking party members had better housing, income, food, and education. The general population queueing for hours in the bitter cold hoping for bread or other basic goods and living in poor quality crowded housing, while party officials / elite had privileges such as better housing and educational opportunities for their children and access to special stores with Western goods and luxuries. Those citizens who were deemed unpatriotic might find the children withdrawn from their nearby good school or university. The “Worker’s Paradise” of East Germany was high on propaganda, but so many young citizens, mostly now qualified or trained, and professionals, left for West Germany, which welcomed healthy, young workers (and so began the restrictions of movement from the east). Growing up in a very low socioeconomic class and under Nazism, the war, the post war period, under Soviet control, they were well used to poverty and deprivation, and while the new socialist policies did improve their lives, the allure of the ‘West’ was too great. In 1956 she was able to leave by being approved a temporary ‘pass’ to visit her sister who had already moved to West Germany. She did not return, and never saw her parents again. The border restrictions increased, eventually leading to a fully patrolled closed border. https://www.militaryhistories.co.uk/.../early_borders https://alphahistory.com/coldwar/east-germany/ The establishment of border defences https://www.militaryhistories.co.uk/berlin/igb https://www.militaryhistories.co.uk/berlin/border Moving to West Germany in 1956: There was much war damage and housing demand was greater than supply, so she share rented a tiny attic room with 2 other women, 3 adults in 2 single beds (2 adults slept ‘top and tail’ in a single bed) on the 3rd floor, no other furniture, a communal toilet was in the cellar; and worked in a printing factory. In West Germany it was still possible for a man to forbid his wife to work, and women were only paid 75% of men’s wages for the same work. Many men were injured, or did not return from war. Women who were left to support families in these devastated cities often became the rubble removers - spending their days clearing roads and cleaning stone/ bricks for the rebuilding process. It wasn’t easy to improve one’s life, and despite many new freedoms of living in the west - to travel/ shops with goods, she remained penniless, so the advertising brochures of a new life in Australia were very appealing. Anyway, back to the trip - most travellers don’t have Chemnitz on their itinerary. It lacks the grand historical monuments of other cities, although it was once a gracious city. I recall some lovely squares and a lot of depressing, grey, boxy flats from a very brief (and restricted, - because it was still the old east Germany) visit in 1986 when it was Karl Marx Stadt (East German government changed name from Chemnitz to Karl Marx Stadt in 1953, and after reunification it was returned to its original name). It has a mix of the older and the new architecture and the Soviet era buildings are part of the history. I had limited access to my family at that initial visit (needed to declare who one would visit, and not wise for some there to connect with the west), as the regime did not disintegrate until 1989, but did have a bit of a whirlwind family tour in 2010, and reconnected with some long lost relatives then. We also attended my mother’s school reunion in Chemnitz back then, such interesting stories of their lives in the old East Germany, the children of a friend were quite academically gifted and allocated university places for dentistry and medicine in the 1980’s …but in communist Poland, not Germany, as there were not enough vacancies …so had to learn the language as well (although they were provided with language lessons). It was once a wealthy industrial city (textile industry, mechanical engineering, railroad construction - also known as Saxon Manchester), but much was destroyed during the war, as it produced military hardware and there was a nearby oil refinery. The lack of liveable housing meant those with an intact home were allocated to share with others (a friend of my mother had 17 people assigned to live with them in their home) Chemnitz was the 2025 Capital of Culture, so a lot of investment and upgrading of old under utilised buildings, and is now an interesting mix of repurposed industrial buildings, pockets of historic Art Nouveau, some ugly Soviet era buildings, some more recent glass structures, a very few half timbered houses, ‘East Modernism’ https://wildeast.blog/en/chemnitz-modernism/ I simply walked from the train station to the bustling weekly market at the red tower, passing Theaterplatz with the opera house and St Peter’s church, the Karl Marx monument, the town hall square, enjoying the atmosphere of the market. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...19c587a65.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...726e60421.jpeg X https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6026bbf0f.jpeg X https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...77c281da7.jpeg Old and new https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...274e9e69d.jpeg The red tower survived New buildings surround it https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...540ecee8b.jpeg Theaterplatz https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...58c0c483b.jpeg Karl Marx monument https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...abf3e0292.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5b81412bb.jpeg Park https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...63b599e6b.jpeg Pedestrian and cyclist friendly and great public transport https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...177339db1.jpeg Approaching the red tower and the weekly market https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b4e9228a4.jpeg Yes please… https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...533d0aa01.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e3283af77.jpeg For the spargel lovers https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...51e84fd62.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...142c1cf53.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f2633741.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...36b523ae7.jpeg Lunch with plum cake https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6f698f0a5.jpeg A square of apartments right in the centre https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...06735e32c.jpeg Lots of eateries https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...09c31289c.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...001b8ea20.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dcc76ff8b.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db4647099.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...73c89ba56.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0caa46e9.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...54e792673.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...55f79d8fa.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...be7978f39.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6cc78dc20.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...54fe38f32.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6b1857f95.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0d6fd872d.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8da10c62c.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...227698468.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...933609144.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b656f2a7.jpeg The street at the train station It is now a city of 250,000 and it was great to see an ethnically diverse population. And such a surprising change from the bleak and grey city I had visited before. It feels really open, with wide streets and footpaths, good tram connectivity, street trees, green spaces well tended, no graffiti, really clean, the apartment buildings look more modern, the old and the new didn’t seem as jarring. A really interesting day. There are museums and historic districts and canals / ponds / parks I could have explored as well, but I was flagging by then. |
More great photos - I particularly loved the "Pottery building". It looks so pretty!
I suppose hundreds of thousands arrived in Australia on that "Assisted Passage" programme. My mother and half sister did - in 1950 they went to Melbourne. My sister told me a lot about the fun on the ship - and I told her about the fun on the ship to South Africa! (1952). What your family went through before that though Adelaidean is an amazing and blood chilling story. So great you are able to visit the places they loved and share the photos with us. |
Another thanks for sharing this family background. It is very interesting for someone like me - who grew up in the late DDR/GDR - to read how life really was in East Germany. ;-)
Chemnitz is IMO a city well worth a couple of days. The various museums are world class, it has a pretty good opera house/theatre/symphonic orchestra, very different, vibrant districts with architecture from late 19th/early 20th century (Kaßberg, Sonnenberg), medieval times (Schlossberg), a lot of parks, castles and is great for outdoor opportunities (hiking, cycling, swimming ...) |
Day 25: Leipzig
I planned a fairly slow and quiet day in Leipzig today. Took the tram to Augustusplatz, a large square with more modern architecture - the university, opera house, concert hall, and panorama tower. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1339c9214.jpeg Enormous crowds at the peaceful protests in 1989 https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7fdc1eec2.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8ed9a30f9.jpeg Panorama building and University https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8823c08b3.jpeg Walked to the new town hall, such a vast and striking building. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...babe0193d.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7051cac93.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c4f02a82.jpeg Circled back as I forgot to visit Mendelssohn house - he lived in a flat on the second floor from 1845, and it has been reconstructed as it was (music salon for weekly concerts, lounge, study, etc). Additionally the lower floor has been created as a space to listen to recordings of his work, with digital access to his music and a room where one can ‘conduct’ his music and control the orchestra. It is really clever. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b7f8af0ff.jpeg Listen to music https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...793c0e4bd.jpeg Listen to music https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0891207ae.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...22b9b0071.jpeg Be a conductor https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...adbea3bcb.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a45376143.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f530a6e25.jpeg The music salon https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...291881622.jpeg Study https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab9fbec4b.jpeg A lounge Returned to the St Nicholas church, as it wasn’t open for visits when I last passed, you can buy your ‘right to photograph’ inside, it’s such a stunning interior, really light. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f4abe2e3.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...04bd5fdda.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e5d3d0eca.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f6b3cdf0.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e25f14d8e.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2e201612f.jpeg Walked through the rather exclusive Mädler passage, and then intended to return to our excellent lunch spot of a few days ago, but eeeek, the crowds! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9423ab698.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b91804cef.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d4fcb996e.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e4e44b40.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...62aaf29f4.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7ae3fa593.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...75e44c182.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...be8221d64.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1fadd9e85.jpeg It was impossible to wade through the soccer fans. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...52a89f847.jpeg St Thomas church area https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...296c1c074.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...056ec1af7.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a17698777.jpeg Get me out of here… https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6144c5d7a.jpeg Even returning to the station was swimming against the tide I hadn’t anticipated this and found it suffocating, so abandoned the rest of my plan, which was the Museum Zeitgeschichtliches Forum and/ or the City History Museum. Leipzig has a lot to see and a good hub from which to daytrip, had I more time, Erfurt, Naumburg, Weimar, Eisenach, would have been on my radar. |
Yes, Hambaghale, I am getting old and sentimental! It meant so much to revisit and it felt like a connection to my family history.
Ingo, this whole region is very interesting and would be a great trip in itself. But, heading to Italy next. |
Very interesting, and appreciate your sharing family history.
Looking forward to your Italy musings. |
Sorry, Adelaidean, really bad timing. These soccer fans can be a pest and indeed, a big brawl was reported for that evening. At least the bars had good business.
On to Italy! (Btw, did you notice the figures on top of Kroch building on pic 2 were created after the model of those on the clock tower at Piazza San Marco in Venice?) |
Day 26: Leipzig to Rovereto
Long travel day today, train to Munich, then Rovereto. Price today for that train ticket is €275 I purchased the train tickets €77 in December as a ‘Super Sparpreis Europa’ fare by early purchase. Only hiccup was that the train was reconfigured and had less carriages, so my carriage and therefore seat reservation, no longer existed. Nor was I provided a new one. Conductor told me to “find an empty seat” which is easier said than done, when some had ‘reserved’ on them (presumably those that booked after the reconfiguration?) and the others were like me, scrambling for an empty one. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0b315fffd.jpeg The scenery is getting better https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fd2191446.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...59c722bba.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...869c56f53.jpeg Vineyards on the valley floor https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3d583d31c.jpeg Castle on an unlikely perch Anyway, I have 12 N so 11 full days. I like to ‘settle’ in a place for a bit longer at the end of a trip. Rovereto is a small town in north Italy in the amalgamated Trentino/ Alto Adige (South Tyrol). Chose Rovereto for excellent public transport (train and bus), and access to the very popular nearby sights without the tourist frenzy. I have visited the region several times, and love it. My accommodation offers a Trentino Guest Card which provides regional transport on the buses and trains, and discounts to some attractions (museums, castles). https://www.visittrentino.info/en/ex...ences-included Guests add this to the MuoVersi App And then scan as validation on bus and train. I arrived at my apartment about 5 pm, went to the Coop 3 minutes away for my immediate shopping needs, then headed out for a walk, plus maybe dinner. First impressions are great. A lively town, with lots of locals about, easy to walk around, a historic centre of disappearing alleys, people sitting outside at the local bars, kids playing, people walking their dogs, restaurants starting to put out their chairs and open their doors, a castle, a river. I did pop into a restaurant and mistakenly ordered overly rich food, but ended with a brilliant tiramisu that I did finish.. So far, so good! First night in Italy. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42e8a5661.jpeg Main Street from train station https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...737cdf6e6.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8f1434a2c.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...481879d62.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b0ce54668.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eede63b62.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...246c3654c.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...632b93f6d.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a0082499b.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...83a57d62e.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bdd10ce52.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d626f3418.jpeg Eggplant parmigiana https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f77cd1250.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...26b1513d6.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b30606089.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a444e8411.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f13e51777.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b475e9ffb.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...81fe18fd1.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a3b67b577.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1bfa85134.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2c0d24a7b.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4273eb724.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4d7778f42.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...903dbb2da.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b5fcb0298.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4767aaf45.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4c8f68397.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6811fad17.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3a2c9ca1a.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d5c10e5b7.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c1671c01e.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...76d2aace5.jpeg |
Day 27: Rovereto (daytrip to Riva del Garda)
It has been pretty warm, so decided to visit Riva del Garda on Lake Garda which would be cooler. Also wanted to avoid the busy weekend. The bus was a bit of a mystery, the schedule on the App differed to what was posted at the bus stop. Apple Maps turned out to be really useful this trip - plugged in my destination and method of transport and the bus stop / schedule appeared. This is new to me, maybe old news to everyone else. Helped me in Leipzig too. Anyway, while I used my Guest Card for free transport (validate using the QR code on the bus), you can buy tickets from the driver but only with cash (no contactless payments system). (Have rarely needed cash this trip, apart from the occasional ticket, coins for toilets that don’t offer card payments, or some restaurants). It is an enjoyable bus ride, of about an hour, and a dramatic arrival to the lake. I have stayed in Malcesine previously, and used the ferry to visit Limone and Riva del Garda, the mountainous north end of the lake. Today I wandered Riva, lunched, and walked to Torbole. Lots of cyclists, and water sports, families with kids, there are camping grounds right at the lake. Return trip was heavy with traffic heading towards the lake towns (it is single lane each way). https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b195af8d3.jpeg Nice bus ride, beautiful day https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9043d74d7.jpeg Heading down to the lake https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b5425da2.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c6f5e62e4.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7805d1750.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...100e33d7e.jpeg Riva del Garda https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c923d3ab7.jpeg Local market https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...940abd65f.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d354743cd.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...07ba668c5.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d982c5836.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...02fbf8899.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9b7b2368.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...91e90af38.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42d589ca8.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c1a3f5db2.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c3b84aacd.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...39a6ce4c6.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...39befa741.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bc4662433.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...15d679cf5.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1e5c2a7e6.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6003a698c.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...edd9acffc.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0517a8462.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...119644104.jpeg The river at Torbole https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...603fe2249.jpeg Bus ride home |
I just returned from South Italy a week ago, now I am thinking about Northern Italy and Germany. Oh boy, just too many beautiful places in mind. On top of that, Norway is saying how about me. Oh, my!
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You probably took the same route to Italy that I took! Nice train ride, especially passing the Alps. I remember the stop Rovereto, wondering if it would make a good base for exploring Trentino. Now I know, thanks to you, Adelaidean! Beautiful pictures of your day trip to Lake Garda :-)
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Lake Garda looks beautiful and such a contrast from where you've been in Central Europe. I've not made it to any of the Italian Lakes yet.
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Tripplanner, we have stayed in very north of Lake Como, on Lake Maggiore in Stresa (and Locarno, but that is Switzerland), have had 2 daytrips to Lake Lugano annd 1 to Lake Orta, and stayed in Lake Garda previously.
It is hard to choose! Ingo, the train is very convenient from here, part of the reason I chose it. Cherthor, I haven’t ventured into south Italy. |
My evening wanderings last night..
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c8c598f18.jpeg Mozart held his first concert here in 1769 https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2c03de4f8.jpeg Mozart’s first private concert in Italy was in Rovereto https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...70b99d5ba.jpeg Lovely small stores https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c04193f7a.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e1a46fb4a.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...858e6b437.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f5a359f0.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ad6e126b2.jpeg Menswear - very stylish https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4ed954e7d.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cf07cc90a.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7599161cd.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...35830cb4c.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd6f6ea1b.jpeg |
Day 28: Rovereto
Slow morning, had an espresso at the nearby square where a tiny food market had set up. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c36e4fc5.jpeg Then headed to the castle. It’s 5 mins walk from my apartment, and included in the Guest card https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cd300cc65.jpeg The walk to the castle is a pretty nice 5 minutes! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cfdc97568.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b32d9c87.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a6df1889b.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...20f944253.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...decb15b46.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7978a2469.jpeg The original fortress was built around 1300, came under Venetian rule in 1416, and redesigned with towers and improved fortifications after that. In 1509 it was ceded to the Habsburgs. The castle now houses the Italian Historical Museum of War. Rovereto lies on the WW1 frontline between Italy and Austria-Hungary and the collection preserved is enormous. https://museomitag.it/en/the-castle/ https://museomitag.it/en/ This is a most incredible museum. It’s set in a castle, so that in itself is a challenge of modernising and accessibility and it is so fantastically well done. The museum displays are excellent, I’m too deaf to use an audio guide but the signage was clear and very readable (pet peeve- too many museums have difficult to read labelling, pale script on glass, or over lit and causing reflections) There is an enormous display of weapons and uniforms. Each space has a theme related to war, for example, changes in technology and strategy, propaganda to encourage nationalism and conscription, communication systems, life in the trenches, the human cost. There are personal letters, photos, short films, it is very moving. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2f9371f93.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ad579cf45.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...177f6f032.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a2ee1dac.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...304e7bc67.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0dddcf17c.jpeg Fill up your water bottle - but just look at that tap! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f12c3daa2.jpeg Toilets in a castle https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...81236396b.jpeg Not that door… https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa314a6c5.jpeg Nor this one… And you wander through rooms, and tunnels, and outside to panorama viewpoints, and into towers (displays of archaeological finds and medieval weaponry). https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...38f343f9a.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...06a5d3503.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...153a53765.jpeg Personal items https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d1f319a8b.jpeg Tobacco advertising back in the day. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2da7daefb.jpeg There are a lot of weapons.. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6e04ce8b.jpeg And uniforms https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b8ee90803.jpeg Elaborate headwear https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f3c0c2983.jpeg War Photographs https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...642f1555f.jpeg Cut out showing plane interior https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e92cb7db8.jpeg Photographer captured an explosion as troops advance https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5ae502e86.jpeg No words https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a02a29944.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...29a51fb2e.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...38a993f2e.jpeg Refugees https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...810dc3785.jpeg In between you get to wander to viewpoints https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...19942c31e.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...767309d22.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...73cbb9544.jpeg Alpine fighters https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a939694bb.jpeg Winter requirements https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...547450ae2.jpeg Fighting in the mountains https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d039bf409.jpeg mobile kitchen facilities https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...739bd998f.jpeg A propaganda film produced by a Turin company in 1916 https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f08b3d6d.jpeg A prosthetic leg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bc4823a1c.jpeg Views to the hills https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...79152a2f2.jpeg Views down to the river https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0074dc69.jpeg Beautiful https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...812edc498.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fd585e426.jpeg Armour detail https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f35113d36.jpeg More armour detail https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6dda6eabe.jpeg And more https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...65dd073dc.jpeg Fortress towers held the older displays https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...203698bf8.jpeg Archaeological finds https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...27c326263.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4f201cd0b.jpeg You exit the tower through a tunnel https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...adb1ec174.jpeg More views https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9019bbb0f.jpeg Heading home, nice carport https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d7b9d494c.jpeg This is the view near my door, hillside village barely visible Could ‘chat’ to the museum attendants, (without a common language but Google translate) because it’s so quiet. They also guide you through to the next space as it’s not purpose built and some access via external walls or through tunnels. So enjoyable after having been in Prague castle and the tourist frenzy. I spent nearly 4 hours there. So, by the time I emerged, Rovereto had gone to sleep, post lunch. Most places shut, so headed back to my apartment to refresh a baguette for my very late lunch and a rest. |
That castle is right up my alley. Beautiful pictures, moving exhibit. Rovereto looks more and more appealing.
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On the whole, I am not a museum goer, but I do like to visit to castles and fortresses. I truly enchanted by this museum inside the fortress. I just wonder how do soldiers put on those heavy armors. The details of that prosthetic leg is amazing.
Thanks for the inspiration! |
Day 29: Rovereto (daytrip to Ala)
Ala is about to host stage 6 of the Women’s Giro d’Italia: so thought I’d visit before it got hectic. This town is just a short 10 minute train ride south of Rovereto. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9c1ffe61b.jpeg Ala is a small station https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...92f9dbcfe.jpeg View from station Ala is also known as the “City of Velvet”, as it was a landmark city for the production of silk velvet between the late 17th and 18th centuries. Hence the elegant town centres and palazzos. https://www.visitrovereto.it/en/disc...alazzo-taddei/ This would have been interesting https://www.initaly.it/en/articolo/g...pubblico-15466 but I missed it What a sweet and charming town. Wandering rather aimlessly along the narrowing lanes, into the historic centre until I was in need of coffee and searched for a cafe. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b5bdf1bf6.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...54b045964.jpeg Getting ready for the bike race https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16f201c89.jpeg Nice murals https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3ffdd4325.jpeg Even the street art is good https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6820eb959.jpeg Lovely alleys https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...683818cde.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fcb213740.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4c0b2a8a1.jpeg Oooh tight parking… or too much vino… https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...073895727.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab1050796.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eb1f795f6.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...45e54ab62.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...47e03b3c6.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a87a140bb.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...880cfe0bc.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...21f196f0f.jpeg Off street parking https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e48dbd71e.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2dddd10c6.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1edd2f9de.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...85c6a349c.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aafa62eae.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a26066eb5.jpeg Lots of pink flowers ready for the race https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a33f0db7.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a25f3a670.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3f8706ef4.jpeg Ohhh yes https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9ecd9af01.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d5982b240.jpeg I had the one on the right - sooo good https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cc4b439d1.jpeg Ok I had the custard one too https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f041c2e0.jpeg 2 different creams inside a crusty layer, with almonds, best pastry combination yet €6.60!! Double espresso and 2 pastries. I think I’m going to move here… https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...822349ef6.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9a6179439.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5f18dc2b.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fcc4b007c.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a85d108a9.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16070b693.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...760d8e1ce.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37ecae94b.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bea622a68.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bc0cc4c35.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8bcd19a8b.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5cae628fa.jpeg A bit more wandering and then an easy train ride back. The afternoon was spent at the MART, Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, not my favourite thing to do, but it was hot, and the museum free with my Guest card. I’ll post those photos later as my host has just arrived .. |
Ok, the host is siliconing the shower…
so MART photos, … these I liked… https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...44bbc9ff9.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7509237a8.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...438808aff.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...65b9bf20e.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0a1456d94.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ebfcd9339.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...acd562916.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...17a16a78d.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eee04241f.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f830e0617.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5373dbcca.jpeg these not so much… https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...12de9f7f1.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3631b9348.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c86185ddb.jpeg The building is interesting… https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a09f662d0.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bc7d05ba5.jpeg and the walk home very photogenic, plus several gelati stores on the way so… https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3d3bf4575.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eb8ae8331.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...02ed93f92.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e19e1af1e.jpeg |
What a find! Ala is super picturesque! However, there is NEVER too much wine! ;-)
The first batch of MART pictures I like, too. The second batch is ... interesting. I need gelato also! |
Ingo, my hosts just took me out for an aperitivo, and we have had those snacks you get with it, so now I hardly need dinner.
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Ala looks very quiet but great for wandering on foot. Makes me think of our most recent visit to Semur-en-Auxois in Burgundy.
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Adelaidean, we just returned from a trip to Ireland, so this is the first chance I have to start reading your awesome trip report. I skipped ahead to Prague since we have visited twice, and I wanted to read about what you did there and see your photos. Wow!!!! Your photos of Prague are spectacular!!! So much better than ours! You really captured the beauty of the city, especially its architecture. You have a great eye for composition and focusing on details of the buildings and the best angles. Your photos make me want to return to Prague! During both of our visits, we did not visit any of the parks. They look so beautiful, especially at this time of year.
So wonderful to see your photos of Vysehrad. We first visited Prague in 2003 when our youngest daughter studied in Prague. Her classrooms were held in Vysehrad, so she took us there to see her classrooms. We fell in love immediately with this area of Prague that was not crowded at all in 2003. We love the Sts Peter and Paul Church and the lovely National Cemetery. We also visited the Communism Museum, which at the time was located either above the McDonald's or right next door, which struck us as very funny. When I have a chance, I will next read your installment about Wroclaw. My mom's mother was born in Poland, and my Dad's parents were Polish, too, but born in the US. We visited Krakow on our first trip to Prague, but we haven't been back since. I would love to return to Poland at a future date, as long as our health and mobility is in our favor, at our ages. |
Day 30: Rovereto (daytrip to Trento)
We previously overnighted in Trento when we did a family trip to north Italy, loved the city, so knew it’d be a nice and easy day out. Decided to take the bus to Trento (60 min) and the train back (15min). I enjoy the bus rides, I’m getting on with the nonnas as it’s mid morning, and passing through the little towns, it’s a slice of suburbia too, and quite a different view than the trainline. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...03c4cda2e.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d4a696d8f.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3ed06012f.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8323d958d.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...67641e10e.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...705516318.jpeg The Guest card is valid, just remember to validate using the QR code on board the bus, and the code is next to the validating machines at the train stations (before you board). Trento is such a spectacular city, I just wandered the lovely squares and admired the facades, and had lunch in a quiet back lane, before heading to the river for the Sardagna cablecar, but it wasn’t running today. So I’ll return another day. The castle is very impressive, we visited it last time, might revisit again. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...541465678.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c64572cc.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...39ce4b4f6.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dcba2e54e.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...76df59820.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5a86101c5.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5960743de.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2b4de00e0.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f1c321d92.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a10d0c6c8.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dcaa865e2.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5fd057f52.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0d3b9b404.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f3402b21e.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...906f6ddbe.jpeg cablecar wasn’t running https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d049fc423.jpeg The bus station and train station are next to each other, and a 2 minute walk through a park to the historic centre. On my return to Rovereto, I passed the local museum (Museo Civico) and thought I’d pop in. Well, turned out to be a fascinating museum of (some gifted) collections related to the regions and a donated collection from a Rovereto archaeologist with an incredible coin display. https://www.visitrovereto.it/en/disc...-museo-civico/ The staff tried so hard to find me some English pamphlets and even chased after me when I left as I’d missed visiting the astronomy section. Natural history, fossils, archaeology, astronomy - it really was a great visit. Free, quiet, and on my way home. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fae42a04f7.png https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1d8d18355.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9904841dd.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e0ac03bd.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...807492b03.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa6ebe809.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aca6b8c88.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c3bc2ff96.jpeg Fascinating coins https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce1ff1ee4.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1812f05b0.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1394cbd73.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab175aaaa.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...adaa430f6.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b14489ce5.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f7baa7a7c.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ad0654363.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f325d6fe5.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c86e858f1.jpeg I rarely visit museums, and I really enjoyed it. I had to use a translate app, but it was so quiet and I wasn’t holding anyone up. Then decided I needed to do the Italian thing and walk 100 m to a piazza and have my late afternoon aperitivo, watching the locals sit with the sport papers or chitchat with passersby. €5 well spent! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db68ba2fa.jpeg |
Tripplanner, there’s no doubt those smaller places in France were some of my favourite also.
Karen, I think you might have been the poster that led me to include Vysehrad, so glad I visited. But it was a big day of walking. |
Fantastic pictures again, Adelaidean! Another city I have to visit ... Trento looks very interesting. Aperol Spritz?
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Enjoying your report, and the useful information about Rovereto and Trento, haven't been to either of them.
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Lots of great photos. I am a sucker for a good military museum.
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Adelaidean, I just finished your installments about Wroclaw. Wow!!! I had no idea Wroclaw is so beautiful! It is so pretty with the colorful pastel-colored buildings! The main square is stunning! The pastel colors and architecture remind me a little bit of Telc, a small town in the Czech Republic, but on a much grander scale.
That plate of pierogi reminds me of my childhood when my grandmother made home-made pierogi all the time. We grew up on piergoi, golompki, kielbasa, borscht, and cabbage soup. The Disappearing Figures is so sad and profound. A unique way to commemorate the victims and heartache of that time period. And those tulips!!! Wow, Wow, and more Wow's!!!! |
Day 31: Rovereto (daytrip to Verona)
Thunderstorm warning for later today, so headed out early. DH (not with me this holiday), our 2 teens and I had a wonderful 4 nights in this stunning city about 10 years ago, when I had gifted my DH a David Gilmour concert ticket at the Arena (remains one of his best travel experiences ever). It is a short train ride, and only €7 A short walk to the historic centre, the Arena, the very busy main streets and piazzas. I escaped the crowds by walking the riverside (dog walkers and joggers and parents with strollers) and having an espresso at a tiny bar. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...93712b82c.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cdd248fc0.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3b2367199.jpeg The Arena https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ed5df145a.jpeg Verona Arena https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f1a262e63.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bbc534832.jpeg This is early, still ‘quiet’ https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5830ac035.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd108eb60.jpeg Porta Borsari, Roman gate https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f69137791.jpeg The Porta Borsari https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1ec384e60.jpeg Escaping the crowds https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...67a795e92.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...07222a985.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c1b6c19e.jpeg Gardening in cities https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...30520245b.jpeg A bit of green when you have minimal space https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4deea8dee.jpeg The riverside is a lovely area https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e0d35a94.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c59ba3173.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...922488863.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e37ee07f4.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7ed0aff99.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dda8120ca.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b8e398ec7.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...deeb3fb46.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d0b8611b8.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d9a03bf8b.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...013cba726.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6ce08cca3.jpeg Those little coffee / wine bars that seem tiny, but have lots of little rooms, and even some garden spaces https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a237b2510.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...97a4a4b1a.jpeg Impressive greenery - a successful attempt at privacy https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...98c4391d3.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f681ad6c9.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...92b84f479.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d859c9a53.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1872ecca7.jpeg It was just an ambling kind of day, no real plans; as we had visited before. Which was fortunate, as I hate crowds; it felt kind of crushing and suffocating and I just needed to escape once I re-entered the fray. Returning ‘home’ to a cracking thunderstorm, heavy rain, and then that gorgeous stillness afterwards. Spent the afternoon reading. |
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