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I've never been to Wroclaw but was just as surprised at how attractive the old quarters of Krakow and Warsaw are. Those dwarfs are fun; I wonder if there is a dwarf trail of some sort. And those tulips - when were you there?
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Day 10: Wroclaw (daytrip to Swidnica)
Train ticket PLN 22 (54 min journey) bought at ticket machine as the Koleo App wouldn’t continue to payment. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b0e438881.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cca6e9b2d.jpeg I like to check the upcoming stations The Swidnica Peace Church (built 1657) and Jawor Peace churches are the last remaining of these incredible timber framed churches (only allowed to be built from impermanent materials and in a short timespan) https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1054/ It was a really cold day - my phone told me Swidnica 9C, feels like: 5C and I didn’t disagree; luckily it was a short 20 min walk to the Peace Church from Swidnica train station. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...38595160a.jpeg The entry https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d24ff958c.jpeg The grounds are pretty https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...626760ea9.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...61f2eadc0.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9d468846.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...943699b79.jpeg Stunning interior https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ac0699d52.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c34a1ec9b.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...128e5af7f.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...91112e483.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a82897d33.jpeg The grounds : https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab79d4ac5.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3b74baf21.jpeg Cemetery https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a304641bc.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4cb7a2a8a.jpeg School Then a wander around the Swidnica old market square and a visit to the Museum of Old Merchants to escape the cold (it contained a lot of historic weighing scales, typewriters, cash registers, old coins, ..) https://dolnyslask.travel/en/obiekt/...nego-kupiectwa https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4263daa01.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f8d1f6ea.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf5bae141.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6e26ccd4b.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ee090711c.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff84b3ae4.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2b4cfdbf4.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d11cea173.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f05a0a38.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff17eea69.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4638e63c1.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ac09b4cec.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42b641dc4.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...614debebb.jpeg (I did need a haircut and there was an empty looking hairdresser so popped in and booked a haircut for after my church visit, a fun experience with hand signals and I have no doubt I was her only Australian tourist client, lol) Rookie mistake - buying return ticket in Swidnica at the machine, pulled out the paper ticket from dispenser and wandered off to look at the departure board and on checking the ticket found it was a receipt probably from previous travellers purchase (mine hadn’t printed yet). Lucky I checked. Of course my ticket was gone by the time I returned, so bought another, but it’s cheap, at least I discovered this before I boarded. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...61e31dc35.jpeg It is distracting trying to figure stuff out sometimes Once back in Wroclaw, went via the Monument of the Anonymous Passerby as it reflects the disappearance of citizens during communist regime. There are 14 life size figures that disappear into the street. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2084a8887.jpeg They start to disappear into the ground this side of street… https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2de7acb2a.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...73594593e.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8105b7fa2.jpeg And reappear other side https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16ad9f6ba.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cebba4422.jpeg (My father had told me of a neighbour when he lived in Silesia, who unwisely made some negative remark about the ruling communist regime that was reported to authorities and was taken from his home; no one dared to ask his whereabouts or situation - he returned 6 months later, again, no one dared ask what happened) Walked 10 km today most of that is to and from train stations - can take tram to Wrocław Glowny or bus to the church in Swidnica but I like the discoveries on walking. |
3 Attachment(s)
tripplanner - I visited the Botanic Gardens only a few days ago, maybe 10 May..
I was surprised and delighted the tulips were still in peak condition Day 11: Wrocław Another cold day today. Decided to visit the Japanese gardens https://dolnyslask.travel/en/obiekt/...i-we-wroclawiu but took the tram to save my legs. The walk between the tram stop and the entry is through a lovely public park. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...138d1bd41.jpeg What a fantastic site. So beautifully displayed and organised so that visitors follow a one way route but with lots of spots to sit and enjoy. Azaleas and rhododendrons in flower, and so green and lush. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f13d513ef.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...14a44af8e.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6e01a855b.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...30b261b96.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bda5e941c.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0fe3ef779.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c252cdc8d.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ed17ac30a.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...24822ba74.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6912126dc.jpeg it must be gorgeous in autumn too… On return I walked via the multi media display https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56da23e7b.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0a910d253.jpeg -which must be great at night https://dolnyslask.travel/en/obiekt/...-multimedialna - to the Zoo tram stop Public transport, contactless, no ticket, show your card https://www.wroclawguide.com/en/more...rt-in-wroclaw/ I had used the ticketless scan with digital wallet but a ticket check by conductor led to a bit of agitated Polish and when I didn’t understand her she just got louder - then another conductor came by and did a read of my phone and all ok. I used Maps on my phone to help decide on trams numbers and stops and that worked well. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...86f8b77a61.png https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e9e18d6496.png https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...43e7c7429.jpeg Had a much needed warm and cosy late lunch in a tiny restaurant, Pod przykrywką, which is near my hotel and has a small menu of regional cuisine. I had a horseradish and potato soup and pierogi with sauerkraut and mushrooms. Tasty and filling. More dwarfs https://visitwroclaw.eu/en/discover-...plore/dwarves/ https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c7018529a.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f39eaa614.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c30bc47f2.jpeg If I had a few more days : Hydropolis Museum https://hydropolis.pl/en/ St Mary Magdalene church footbridge St Elisabeth Church tower University of Wrocław : Aula Leopoldina https://visitwroclaw.eu/en/atrakcje/...roclaw-museum/ National museum Battle of Raclawice painting - is timed entry https://mnwr.pl/en/branches/panorama...-of-raclawice/ Książ Castle 3rd largest castle in Poland https://www.zamkipolskie.com/ksiaz/ksiaz_eng.html Huge castle set in a forest, beautiful gardens How to arrive using public transport Attachment 9624 train to Walbrych, then bus There’s plenty to see here. |
Thanks for introducing me to Wroclaw. Definitely putting it on my list of places to visit.
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I like Wroclaw a lot. Been there a couple of times but never overnight. Brilliant pictures here again! That peace church in Swidnica is indeed gorgeous - still on my list.
Btw, Dresden is Germany's sister city of Wroclaw. They gave us one of those dwarfs - it is on the western side of the town hall. |
Oh thank you Adelaidean for your photos and writing about The Swidnica Peace Church!
I have just read the link you attached and am now going to spend some time looking into the history of this region and the conflict/s that saw the building of these churches, all of which is new to me. Your travels have opened up a whole new learning field for me, so again, thank you. |
Wow! I had no idea that Wroclaw was so lovely. And I have to assume many other Polish cities are too. Need to think about a trip there but maybe not this spring. As usual Adelaidean - great photos!
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Thanks for your comments.
Day 12: Wrocław to Stadt Wehlen I could have used a regional train and buy on this route on the day : regional train Wrocław to Zgorzelec to Görlitz €33 (which deserves a full day, so didn’t plan on stopping there) Then ongoing train to Stadt Wehlen is €29. However DB offered an IC option - so I pre booked on DBB €31 (total price, surprisingly cheaper than the regional train option) : IC train to Hoyerswerda with a 9 min transfer, arr Dresden Neustadt then to Stadt Wehlen Then ferry across the Elbe River. It sounded too good to be true, and it was. The train departing from Wroclaw left 40 minutes late, and I missed my connection. The Hoyerswerda train station looks like an abandoned apocalyptic industrial wasteland, the station was locked, it was freezing, no people around, and there was no warm cosy cafe to pass the time in. Fortunately the next train was only 30 minutes away, a few passengers trickled onto platform, and the train was welcomingly warm and quiet. But the train connection following this was absolutely packed - new routing now - I was one of the few able to squeeze in but we were standing for the next hour. Others could not get on board (public holiday crowds). Arrived mid afternoon, to a sweet tiny little village surrounded by forest, and a teeny tiny hotel room overlooking the little market square. Heaven. Reunited with my cousin and her DH, and we wandered up to the castle ruins for nice views. The visitors here mostly consist of hikers and cyclists, we have heard mostly German. The square was buzzing with people from their walks and bike rides, enjoying a beer or ice cream. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4ee35bc4a.jpeg View from my room https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dfa09fc2a.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08889bf5e.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...96e41463d.jpeg The little ferry on the right is our transport across the river https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...175e5a702.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff6b3c398.jpeg Train station across river too, view from castle ruins https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d982264e7.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0a358c968.jpeg Castle ruins https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...540344742.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f186f3577.jpeg Lovely dining room for dinner and breakfast, watching the river boats pass https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...92ae7b280.jpeg Square from my room https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6173b2a6e.jpeg I have previously visited the very popular sights here, including the Bastei bridge, and Konigstein fortress, Dresden, but the region has lots of tiny villages and lovely walks so met a cousin here for a more laid back part of trip. This area is on the train line between Dresden and Prague, on river Elbe, lovely hiking, beautiful river, forests, gorges, very popular with locals, good transport, accommodation and dining options. We dined at our hotel tonight, half board is offered, but we opted to try different restaurants over the stay. |
Welcome to my (almost) backyard ;-)
Very sorry about your train experience :( It has been a zoo lately. Too many carriages in maintenance, so not enough room for passengers, endless delays and cancelled trains. That IC train connection Wroclaw - Leipzig was only introduced last December (I think), so it is still quite new and doesn't work properly yet. It is also ridiculous that it ignores Görlitz and Dresden, runs a more northern route so passengers to those bigger cities must change to regional trains (and spend long waiting times at deserted stations like Hoyerswerda ...) The pictures of Stadt Wehlen are beautiful. Seems you were lucky with the weather. Spring is wonderful with all the fresh green and blooming flowers. Looking forward to the next chapter! |
The green is amazing, Ingo, so beautiful here.
Day 13: Stadt Wehlen We have a local guest card from the hotel, for transport (free ferry and regional train / bus). Wonderful long slow breakfast today, with those serene views over the Elbe. We chose to walk a portion of the Malerweg, first the ferry across river, then through this charming village and on a trail through the forest, clambering up and down steps, lunch at a tiny inn, and continued on to Rathen. So lush and green. Absolutely beautiful forest trail. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66eda554a.jpeg Waiting for the ferry https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...25675dae9.jpeg Fantastic public transport, runs ‘on demand’ https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8a05d9256.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bfef0e6a4.jpeg On the other side now https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...78ade2bfb.jpeg Can take other boats up and down the river https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...756f72c21.jpeg Heading to the trail https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da22fa01a.jpeg Following the M (Malerweg) sign on tree trunks https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1dde789f7.jpeg Gorgeous forest Malerweg ‘The Painter’s Way’ Is a 110 km 8 day walk https://thedetoureffect.com/blog/mal...-trail-report/ Malerweg https://whatifwewalked.com/malerweg-guide/. Most choose sections to walk and use bus/ ferry back. Very typical local foods, had a lentil soup, rye bread, plum cake for lunch. Excellent walking sustenance. There are a lot of steps and stairs. Some steps built between boulders are really narrow, and quite the squeeze. It’s so interesting with lots of panorama points, occasionally viewing the Konigstein fortress, or the Bastei bridge. Arrived in the lovely town of Rathen, where we stopped for excellent icecream, then a few minutes train journey and ferry back to the hotel for a rest, then the (on demand) ferry for the 30 second trip across river and a 1 minute walk to a restaurant for dinner. Lovely laidback day. We walked 8.5 km and 29 flights of stairs equivalent Can’t load photos so I’ll try again tomorrow… |
Day 14: Stadt Wehlen (day trip to Meissen)
It has been cool, but really pleasant: 3-13C in Meissen today We took the direct train to Meissen, and it’s a short walk to the historic town; great luck that this weekend the annual pottery market is on, so a great atmosphere with food huts, stalls, and interesting locally crafted products. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8519276cb.jpeg poking around the shops first .. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...59c108365.jpeg Modernised traditional Christmas decorations https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f85aa940c.jpeg Traditional räuchermann https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5b8a7c4ae.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...527eed9e6.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...72d5d5244.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aad97f701.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...80fc6e693.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9ed0c4617.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0e1e544f.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a45658d61.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d6d3d45ed.jpeg We had a short visit to the Albrechtsburg https://www.albrechtsburg-meissen.de...astle/history/ the oldest castle in Germany, and the original site of porcelain manufacturing. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eec4ae6b5.jpeg X https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f611d62c1.jpeg Cathedral next to the castle https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...73ed6df3a.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eaea31e64.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42b40aeef.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...27d49c23b.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e8a0f744d.jpeg Early Meissen porcelain https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a47a54f66.jpeg Then a stop at the Cafe am Dom for excellent cake, before wandering the market stalls, indulging in some hot Chemnitzer krapfen (yeast donuts) and trying some local wine, chatting to other locals from Dresden (me not keeping up) https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...498be6d82.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1700fee5c.jpeg We returned to Stadt Wehlen for dinner - mine was a tasty locally made pasta with salmon and white asparagus (it’s spargel season). Then an evening walk around this sweet village, with the lovely fading light. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c693f5fb.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f939c7581.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c573400ac.jpeg Stadt Wehlen is pretty small https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23e0e55a5.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...09b00af7c.jpeg Steep hillside https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a34f57204.jpeg Evening light on the river Walked 8 km today |
Two wonderful days, it seems to me. Right up my alley. I have done the Rauenstein hike a couple of times - always fantastic. I noticed the prices went considerably up in that small Berggasthaus, though, with the new guys running it now.
Love the reflections and evening light on the river. Meißen is always worth a visit. So picturesque. And the cake looks yummy! Btw, I prefer the Schieler wine (a local specialty) dry. |
Thanks. This mix of well known and lesser known towns in Germany and in the former Habsburg Empire (Breslau was part of Austria until 1740 only, whereas Prague and Rovereto left Austria 1918, after WW1) looks very interesting.
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Day 15: Stadt Wehlen
https://www.saechsische-schweiz.de/e...l-stadt-wehlen Today the sky is clear and we wanted to walk part of Stage 1 Malerweg from Stadt Wehlen to Uttewalde Grund and on to Lohmen, as it passes through woods, gorges and interesting rock formations. It was peaceful, and so pretty. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c6bc375d5.jpeg Heading to the trail https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...523584fee.jpeg Perfect! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6109a5059.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d6af5ad76.jpeg the gorge is damp, with mosses and ferns https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...497e61b68.jpeg Some rocks are wedged in the narrow gorge https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...75810860b.jpeg The town of Lohmen had a lot of old farms converted to homes and garages, with nice gardens. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9db0811bc.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...986f88d62.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...097b15257.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7fa538999.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5cef39003.jpeg We ate at a very basic outdoor beer garden, a hearty bean soup and a beer, before catching the bus back. Dinner was at our hotel restaurant, which also makes its own pasta. Walked 10 km today. |
A fairy tale landscape. Love the glens around Wehlen. Nice and cool even in the summer heat. Beautiful pictures!
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Day 16 Stadt Wehlen (to Hohnstein)
We start every day at 8:30 with our excellent long breakfast and plan our day, my cousin popping in to the TI next door to check we have the details correct. Today we took the train to Pirna, then the bus to Hocksteinschänke bus stop, picking up the Malerweg trail there, intending to walk to Hohnstein via the Wolfschlucht (gorge) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...53ca0a91d.jpeg This is what rush hour at the ferry stop looks like https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...54de305f8.jpeg It was a lovely trail, through forest, up high on the rocky outcrop, down through the narrow chasm, into the valley, then uphill to the Hohnstein village. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...177a482ac.jpeg The start of the trail https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...018b41608.jpeg At a rocky outcrop https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d7564845e.jpeg The village across the valley, we still need to go down and back up https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...57850618a.jpeg Heading down via the ravine and a lot of stairs https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34c490daf.jpeg The exit out of the rock https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...96ef3606a.jpeg So green and quiet in the forest https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a921cc59.jpeg Entering the village after that slog uphill was exhausting, but astonishing to see the Burg Hohnstein towering on the ledge overlooking the village and backyards of locals. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a2f7c0bc1.jpeg Their back garden with the castle overhead! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e722fdd87.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c9de55736.jpeg What a charming village https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...edd2a653c.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b7b7eb89.jpeg Parking spaces are tight https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1ea497542.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13b9eb64a.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8ec84cf21.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b508dd91f.jpeg We ate a late lunch at the castle terrace cafe, I had a tasty Solyanka sour soup with bread, and poppyseed cake. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e5a5f0cb7.jpeg It is now a youth hostel https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...173d5547e.jpeg The upper castle https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...86d84912b.jpeg We took the bus to Bad Schandau, which passes through gentle countryside of farms and small villages, then the train to Stadt Wehlen, which follows the river, the overall trip took about an hour. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...92a8a32dc.jpeg Heading ‘home’ Walked 8 km and 23 flights today |
I like that rush hour a lot ;-)
The fresh green is amazing. You are so lucky with the weather, too. Castle Hohnstein will undergo major reconstruction works in the next couple of years. I am not sure I like that - it will probably lose most of its patina and charm. |
Those stairs would have done me in! I admire those who have no problem walking on those grids. They make me feel very insecure (and anyway right now lots of stairs are out!!) But what a gorgeous area you are in at the moment. So lush, green and the houses so pretty. I liked that castle a lot and hope if "ingo" is right about the restoration they leave the outside walls alone.
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What a wonderful trip! Love all your photos.
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Adelaidean – I’m late on board. Catching up after returning from a trip to South America.
Loving reading your report and all the stories and information. Great photography! I enjoyed seeing Singapore, looks amazing but so far for me. Seeing beautiful Prague brought back good memories of our visit of 2016. The Basilica of St Peter and St Paul looks stunning! The tulips in Wroclaw, wow, a real heaven! And Stadt Wehlen, lovely! Had to do some additions to my long list… |
Day 17: Stadt Wehlen (day trip near Bad Schandau)
Again, we used the ferry to cross the river, and then the train to Bad Schandau. Another passenger was asking how to get to Schmilka and I jumped onto the DB App and explained timing and platform and my terrible German led him to ask “From where you come?” 😂 so we continued in English. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3ffa3cbd8.jpeg You can see the Bastei bridge from the train https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ea728a148.jpeg The unusual sandstone mountains Once at Bad Schandau, we crossed the river by ferry again. Then took the Kirnitzschtalbahn (old tram now electrified) https://www.vvo-online.de/en/leisure...ahn-196.cshtml and walked the forest trail to the Kuhstall, a natural stone arch. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2adb3d54f.jpeg We are headed to the Kuhstall https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a9f6dd78f.jpeg So lush and green https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd8c69e7a.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...49642caf6.jpeg This man was helping his wife tackle the uphill path, an admirable effort by both of them. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...704155a10.jpeg The arch https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...521291950.jpeg The arch https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...992a1c737.jpeg Lots of crevices in the rock, some narrow access steps we did not attempt https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...414227ae4.jpeg Lunch https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ccde3d862.jpeg Lunch https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b026db262.jpeg The beer garden It is another wonderful forest walk, and some German gemütlichkeit at a beer garden there, with a lentil soup and bread; lots of hikers and a friendly chatty atmosphere, with those at our shared table helping me understand the menu. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...15aaace1c.jpeg Bad Schandau https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cbeefcabe.jpeg Bad Schandau https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f81bedf5.jpeg Return ferry to train station Bad Schandau https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e4d4ca1d1.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4256f020c.jpeg We returned to home base and had dinner in our market square, which had a bit of extra excitement as the village sirens went off, as they did last night just before midnight. Some locals ran through the square, hopped on a quad bike and raced across to the ferry. Quad bikes a sensible mode of transport for first responders in these steep hillsided villages and rivers to cross. We then had a final walk along the river in the evening light. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...63043681c.jpeg Evening stroll along river https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4f3a51c45.jpeg The ‘train line’ side of Stadt Wehlen https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cb7595867.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4db640728.jpeg Nice homes on steep hillsides https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e299bee6.jpeg Some of these homes had flood indicators from terrible floods in 2002 and 2013 https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ea7eb4b7.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bcceeba67.jpeg Today we walked 10 km, 13 flights All transport covered by the guest card today. This was our last day in the region. Really lovely and relaxing holiday base. I will farewell my cousin and her DH in the morning. (We meet sporadically, and it’s an unlikely relationship as they remained behind the Iron Curtain in the 1950’s and my mother had left before significant border restrictions, then emigrated to Australia. I had visited other family members in the 1980’s prior to the fall of the wall, but they were both working in positions in government and were unable to have contact with ‘the West’ and they were both sent to Cuba for 4 years - so we have not had the family connections until later in life where they have met me on various trips.) You will not run out of trails to enjoy - Hiking bus routes: https://www.saechsische-schweiz.de/e...-bus-wanderbus Or a bit further - To Bad Schandau ferry over Elbe, then the Wanderschiff, to Hrensko in Bohemian Switzerland Czechia, hike / visit the gorges. National park brochure and map https://www.nationalpark-saechsische...e-Englisch.pdf The Malerweg stages: https://thedetoureffect.com/blog/mal...-trail-report/ Ingo, you live in a gorgeous part of the world! |
Wonderful pics Adelaidean. So great you did a bit of Poland. A wonderful country with amazing food,
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Adelaidean, thank you for reminding me. After a while you get used to it and it's nothing special anymore. It takes a wonderful trip report like yours with all the details and brilliant pictures to recall how beautiful the region is.
You're off to Quedlinburg, right? Another picturesque town. Have a great time there! And keep posting ... I'll follow you virtually on your journey. Thanks again. |
Still following along and very much enjoying it. Are you getting up to Dresden at all? I know I've looked at Saxon Switzerland when researching Dresden.
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Thanks for your comments, it has been a nicely paced trip of great variety so far.
Ingo, that’s the same for all of us, I think, regarding appreciating where we live. But also travelling, that first sight of a castle and I’m snapping away, then next day I walk past barely glancing at it, lol. Tripplanner, I did not visit Dresden this time, but I have been before. Certainly a stunning city with many sights and fascinating museums. It would be a wonderful base to explore the region, as a 30 min train ride brings you to these walking trail options. I just needed a nature based week after 2 city bases. |
Day 18: Stadt Wehlen to Quedlinburg
Our final breakfast together and I hopped on the ferry to the local train station, then train to Dresden, to pick up the pre booked IC to Magdeburg, then regional train to Quedlinburg. I took an earlier train than the DB App suggested, given potential delays (quite a busy line with freight trains to and from Czechia). Worked well, there was a 10 min delay and I still arrived at Dresden HBF with plenty of time to seek the facilities, a lunch purchase, and locate platform. Dresden HBF easy to navigate and the IC train departed on time. Very comfortable 1st class carriage, only half full, arrived on schedule. Quedlinburg is a historic, wealthy trading town with a large number of preserved half timbered (fachwerk) houses remaining. https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/535/ It lies in the Harz region, and together with Wernigerode, Goslar, Halberstadt, Stolberg, and others, features as some of the prettiest medieval towns in Germany. The train from Quedlinburg to Thale is is 12 minutes, for easy hiking in the Bodetal. It looks like the Brocken steam railway, and Rammelsberg mining tour are also popular. The walk to the hotel in Quedlinburg is short and pleasant. This is definitely a nice part of town. My room is huge, and quiet. The hotel is only a 5 minute walk from the castle and the market square. Had a short wander and dinner, then a stroll a few blocks around my hotel, admiring the gracious mansions (not half timbered in this part). Plus really well kept parks, now busy with dogs getting their evening walk. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f8072e42.jpeg The castle, abbey, church above the town https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9f22cfa6.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0011dc877.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...411bf7f22.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f9bd22c4e.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1816e0f53.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13644727f.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ebca45925.jpeg Waterworks building https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8eb6cdd0d.jpeg The historic waterworks building, built 1885 https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8892cbbec.jpeg Nice parks surrounding the waterworks https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37f7b7fdd.jpeg Very elegant buildings in the block around the hotel, with beautiful large trees and gardens https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2dacd255a.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1274dde9c.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13b9daa3c.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7af0ab685.jpeg Public green spaces, well tended https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a95b63b28.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9dd3e2c5.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...31dc45c10.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...de6967ff2.jpeg Walked 6.5 km today |
The buildings look gorgeous. Do you know if it is post-WWII reconstruction or are the buildings originals that escaped the world wars?
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Enjoying the "unseen" Poland, we've only been to Gdansk, Warsaw and Krakow. You've covered a lot on this trip !
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Tripplanner, Quedlinburg escaped the wartime destruction that so many other towns and cities endured.
But there are some East German era buildings that are just ugly. Aesthetics were not a priority. https://www.thegermanyinsider.com/quedlinburg-guide/ |
Day 19: Quedlinburg
A charming breakfast room, and another excellent breakfast. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dec190922.jpeg A short wander to experience the town before the day trippers descend and many of the visitors are not yet out. Really like this time of day, locals walking their dogs and heading to work, the car drivers waiting patiently for the rubbish collection to come through the tiny lanes, not yet busy with tourists. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2c8ff5818.jpeg Carparking is minimal when you live next to a castle https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ced7a3e34.jpeg Managed to squeeze in a front garden https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b7ac008ec.jpeg Narrow lanes https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...abd46e160.jpeg Narrow lanes https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9637ed43e.jpeg Quiet early morning https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bb6a7c037.jpeg Decorative wooden detail https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...871957497.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2637fe4ea.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e675c8097.jpeg Larger buildings with communal entry areas https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eea024240.jpeg Bookstore tucked away in this lane https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e578bb367.jpeg Scary German fairy tales featuring witches https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5b1c2813b.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4eb879c75.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db97ac6cb.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...48b3a4bad.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ca6e28b81.jpeg Where the locals were doing their everyday shopping https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8da100424.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ec130ea51.jpeg Tiny front spaces https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5cc4a1acf.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bef8c8fd9.jpeg Squeezing in 2 cars https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a3b000ed1.jpeg Tiny houses https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da378a66a.jpeg The Marktplatz was busy though, with stalls being erected, as there’s an upcoming annual city festival, the Königstage (King’s Days) Passed through the main historic centre and to the less touristy outer ring where you find hairdressers, and optometrist, etc. It was a very interesting stroll. Then back for a rest. Returned to the historic centre, and the now open stores with goods spilling onto footpath - it’s a completely different, more lively street vibe. I was drawn in by a garden store, which I noticed also had simple lunches on offer, so I entered this unexpected sweet and cosy cafe with indoor and outdoor eating nooks. Had a very good vegetable soup, and a strawberry ice cream. Then lots of meandering, into churches, down alleyways, with no plan. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...defec9c15.jpeg Please don’t block my driveway! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...258a7ac2a.jpeg Stores wares on footpath https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5cea63c81.jpeg It changes the atmosphere as stores open up https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f9f472f8.jpeg Ate here at the garden centre https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...75f2b4432.jpeg A little cafe out the back https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...73b8aa3a3.jpeg So cosy! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...480548ad8.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...04b3a9a65.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6eadb00e3.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f332f581e.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce0cc02ff.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2bf3d021e.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af8008d10.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...962e3d0f1.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01cf5d034.jpeg Small cars only… https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b29f1358.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c7eb02fb4.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e4076201.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...35dd4d196.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...327e0c653.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ee00816e6.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9939b7a14.jpeg Frontage straight onto street but has a walled back garden https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5ab407b8d.jpeg Walled back garden Walked 8 km today, mainly wandering the alleys. |
ANUJ and Millie, yes, Poland was wonderful, and just a taster.
Hambaghale, glad you were able to log back in to Fodor’s. |
Adelaidean, just got caught up with your time in Stadt Wehlen, and now Quedlinburg! What charming towns and gorgeous countryside. I have to look them up in the map to see where they are, and now have to put them on my list to visit in the future. Thank you for telling us about these lesser known places outside of the big cities. So many places... so little time.
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Adelaidean - you make look Quedlinburg so charming, so picturesque! And it is exactly that ... however, somehow I never really enjoyed my visits there. Maybe it was the lousy weather (March), the crowds (Advent weekend) or the mediocre food and still run down houses back in the 1980s. It looks so beautiful on your pictures! I realize I must go back and give it another chance. So far my favorite in the area is Wernigerode.
Cannot wait for the next chapter! |
Somehow can’t add any more to my TR, when adding photos I get the message “you are no longer logged in”
maybe I’ve posted too many photos, lol but can just add a written reply - Ingo, on choosing bases, everyone I spoke to had their favourite. My cousin said Goslar, my friend said Wernigerode. It would definitely be bleaker in March. I prefer trees greening up, and flowers. And blue sky 😎 There are no charming canals and flowerboxes like those Alsace villages, and Bavaria. yk, yes, I like to mix it up a bit. |
Adelaidean,
What a wonderful on the go trip report you have, I thoroughly enjoy the journey through your photography. I also like the way you travel, a morning riser, and with a wonderful mix of cities with nature. No driving travel is my motto too. Sorry for your loss, and it was great that you were traveling to parts of your ancestors homeland. I had just returned from my recent trip to Greece and southern Italy. I will tag along your remaining journey to northern Italy. All the best for your journey. |
Wonderful photos Adelaidean, thank you! I love seeing a part of the world I don't know at all. As already said - too many places, not enough time.
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Someone at Fodor's helped - and sorted it all. I absolutely love the contrast between the early morning walk when places are not open and the later one with all those fascinating store fronts and things for sale. What an amazing small (I assume ? ) town!
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I've been following along Adelaidean and as always what a trip report you have here. I had to laugh when I saw your pictures of the Wroclaw dwarf statues. I have pictures of some of the same ones from when I was there. I now know what this area looks like when there isn't a ton of snow all around. You make me want to go back as there is just so much more to see and love. I had vowed to get up early when in Prague, but I now know what I missed. Hopefully with a small break, you can continue to post more pictures.
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Thanks, glad it brings back memories or is of interest.
Agree, we can’t see it all, and virtual travel can also be fun and enlightening. But… still can’t post photos. I’ll wait for tech support to help. |
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