Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Trip Report 13 Glorious Autumn Days in Spain!

Plaza de Espanya, Triana, the Metropol Parasol, and Some Hit and Miss Meals

We started our third and last day in Seville with breakfast in the apartment and then began our 1 mile walk to the Plaza de Espana, passing through the Murillo Gardens and past the monuments to Christopher Columbus and El Cid to the entrance to Maria Luisa Park. It was a lovely walk on a beautiful day. As we entered the Plaza, my mind was blown by its beauty. The buildings, the canal, the bridges, the towers, and the fountain all blended harmoniously to create a visual feast. We walked past the tiled alcoves representing the various provinces of Spain, climbed on the bridges to pose for photos, searched out the location used for the city of Theed on the planet Naboo in the movie Star Wars: Episode II – Attack of the Clones, and thrilled at the rainbows created by the fountain in the center of the plaza. I bought some painted fans from a delightful elderly vendor who kindly corrected my Spanish when I attempted to say that I spoke only a little. When I said “Hablo un pequeno de español,” he gently explained “Pequeno es para joven” (pequeño is for “young”) and indicated that I should use “poco” (little) instead. We both smiled and enjoyed one of those exchanges that creates good travel memories.

All in all, the Plaza de Espanya was one of the highlights of our time in Spain. However, I wished that we had come either very early in the morning or near sunset because even though we were there by 10:30 in the morning, the sun was high in the sky and made it difficult to take good photographs. I could only imagine how breathtaking it would look during the “golden hour.”

From there we walked toward the river and again saw the Torre del Oro in the distance. We strolled the path that ran along the Guadalquivir River and crossed at the Puente (bridge) San Telmo into Triana, the “scruffy, vibrant old quarter” of Seville. We continued along the river on Bettis Street for a little while and then turned left to find the Iglesia de Santa Ana de Traina (4 Euro admission for two), built in 1276 in the Gothic-Mudejar style. It was a small but lovely church well worth a quick stop if you’re “into” churches as I am (and as my husband patiently endures).

By this time we were hungry and stopped at the Bar Santa Ana at Calle Pureza 82, which was recommended but disappointing as the service was poor and the food was just OK. We had heard about patatas bravas and decided to try them here. The dish seemed to be (perhaps) cooked frozen French fries with a so-so sauce. The gambas were two very large prawns on a plate with a few shreds of lettuce. I can’t remember what the third plate was and can’t identify it from the photo but it looks like some kind of pork with a few fries. With drinks, lunch was 14.50 Euros.

We wandered some of the narrow side streets and enjoyed looking at the beautiful ceramics on the buildings and sold in the shops. We finished our walk through Triana with a visit to the Mercado de Triana and purchased some amazing looking pastries for breakfast the next morning in a pastry shop called Manu Jara Dulceria – a croissant dior covered in a gold frosting, another croissant covered in raspberry frosting, and an apple pastry. It was a lot of deliciousness for 7.40 Euros!

We passed by the Chapel of El Carmen before crossing the Puente de Isabel II, a pretty arch bridge that led us back into Seville proper. I had been searching for churros and chocolate and stopped at the Chocolateria at the end of the bridge (4 Euros for one order), which had been recommended to us but was another major disappointment. We have much better churros in Houston, and the dipping chocolate was nothing like I had imagined it would be. We don’t shop very much when we’re travelling but do try to find a little something for our son, daughter, and grandchildren, so we looked into some shops on our way back to the apartment, where we packed for our departure from Seville the next morning.

As sunset neared, we made the 15 minute walk to the Metropol Parasol, also known as Las Setas de Sevilla (The Mushrooms of Seville), and were glad that we arrived early to purchase tickets and take the elevator to the top as the lines quickly grew long (6 Euros admission for two). It is said to be the world’s largest wooden structure and has a museum housing archaeological remains found on site, restaurants, shops, and at its highest level a panoramic walkway that offers beautiful views over the city. Walking high above the city and watching the sun set was a truly memorable way to say farewell to Seville.

On our way back to the apartment we stopped at restaurant La Bartola at Calle San Jose 24 and had a wonderful dinner for 26.60 Euros. We shared a plate of three homemade croquettes of the day (3.50 Euros), Iberian pork cheek stew with potato puree (4 Euros), roasted lamb with cous cous (5 Euros), zucchini spaghetti with prawns (7 Euros), which was the best dish of all, and two drinks (5.10 Euros). Staff was pleasant and the restaurant was light and bright.

Miles walked 8.45

Lunch 14.50 Euros

Dinner 26.60 Euros

Pastries 7.40 Euros

Churros and Chocolate 4 Euros

Admissions 10 Euros

Gifts 73 Euros

Apartment 108 Euros

Photos to Follow!