|
Our month on the South Island
5 Attachment(s)
We are partway through our trip to the South Island, NZ, and I’ll post a report as I go.
It’s 26 nights and we are following a standard, first timers itinerary. Read several trip reports and answers to questions on both Fodor’s and TripAdvisor NZ forums - excellent advice on best routing, realistic driving times and scenic stops between bases, scarcity of accommodation in Mt Cook (so booked well ahead), grateful thanks to all who contribute to these forums. Qantas : Adelaide at 6 am, Melbourne to Christchurch arr about 3 pm Our 26 night itinerary: Christchurch 1N Punakaiki 3N Fox Glacier 4N Wanaka 4N Te Anau 4N Queenstown 4N Aoraki Mt Cook 4N Christchurch 2N Chose March for weather, not school holidays, and not Easter this year. Journey planner for road trip https://www.aa.co.nz/travel/time-and...ce-calculator/ for road conditions/ closures, travel time, petrol stations, Weather https://www.metservice.com Road conditions https://www.nzta.govt.nz/traffic-and...l-information/ |
Day 2: Christchurch to Punakaiki
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd0b87d59.jpeg Weather : Clear and warm in Christchurch, cloudy then rain at Arthur’s Pass, cloudy in Punakaiki. After breakfast, we had an hour before checkout to revisit the Christchurch Botanic Gardens, the dahlia beds are lovely in March, and the gardens will need more exploring when we loop back at the end of our trip, as we have 2 nights in Christchurch then. Drive Christchurch to west coast (Punakaiki) takes 4 hrs with no stops, travel forum DE’s suggest to allow 6 hours for usual stops (we took 7 as we shopped at Greymouth) Left Christchurch at 10 am, it was easy driving to exit the city, and pleasant farmland en route, stopping at the Sheffield pie shop for an early lunch, beating the lunchtime crush. Then on to Kura Tawhiti / Castle Hill rocks, allowing an hour or so to explore. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...18fb27594.jpeg Incredible. Do not miss this, it looks interesting from the carpark, but the scale of it is so much more dramatic when walking between the eroded boulders. A great stretch of legs, good path, fascinating rock formations. There is a toilet at the carpark. Left about 1.30 pm https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ebf185f90.jpeg The car park at Castle Hill https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fc1977be6.jpeg Easy walk https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...542b69348.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d3fc5e9f3.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...87f599965.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4c2277c2f.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...97867191b.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6dc7387a3.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...123556bd4.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b767d42e5.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fe95d797f.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a1f409ef8.jpeg Back to the parking area It was raining after Arthur’s Pass, and we were a little time poor, so we did not stop at Devil’s Punchbowl. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a4b255c8e.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bb91cca7c.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a71e94be4.jpeg Driving notes : Good road. Mostly single lane bridges - slow down and keep back, even if your direction has ‘right of way’ another vehicle may already be approaching bridge, and trucks have less ability to swerve when you are too close Really lovely scenery. Thickly forested mountains. First sighting of tree ferns. And the road soon hits the coast. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2bb18816b.jpeg Stopped at Greymouth on the way for grocery supplies at the New World, an impressively large store with good quality fruit and veg, and meat choices. And free, clean toilets! No shopping in Punakaiki, but there are a few cafes and restaurants. We self catered meals. The road north is spectacular, with just a few roadside areas to stop - the sea stacks and the road hugging the coastal mountains is really dramatic. Have a 3 night stay in Punakaiki, at the Hydrangea Cottages (we chose the upstairs Rata suite) 4224 Main Rd, Punakaiki (NZ $915) https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cbf23698a.jpeg View from deck https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...489c17113.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4f4082bc2.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e084d05a6.jpeg https://www.pancake-rocks.co.nz/rata-suite https://www.pancake-rocks.co.nz/region-info Very nice apartment, with an adequate kitchenette and given we requested the portable bbq we were able to enjoy a nice dinner of bbq lamb chops, stir fried veg, potato. With a nice bottle of NZ Pinot Gris. I always appreciate the extras in an apartment, like books and a selection of tea/ coffee. Really nice property, and impeccably maintained and clean. Highly recommend. Huge tree ferns surround the accommodation and can see glimpses of the sea between fronds. Punakaiki is wedged on a sliver of rainforest at edge of a hillside and the sea. Spectacular setting. Makes a good base for a few days : https://punakaiki.co.nz/walks-old/ https://hikingscenery.com/nz-west-coast-short-walks/ |
Kia ora. What a spectacular start to your South Island trip. I wish you a wonderful month filled with memorable experiences. Look forward to following along with you.
|
Day 3: Punakaiki
Forecast : cloudy, then sunny patches later 18C max We decided to have a sleep in and have a gentle day visiting the nearby local sights (Pancake Rocks, Pororari lookout, Truman Track, and a short drive north) We didn’t venture up to Cape Foulwind which was our original plan - The walkway and Cape Tauranga seal viewing, and Mitchell’s Gully Gold Mine (take $10 pp cash and a torch if visiting) It is cloudy, windless, and a bit cooler. Long sleeve shirt, and sandfly repellent on. Today we visited- Pancake Rocks is the 45 min boardwalk to view the layered limestone rock formations and coast, it really is well done, with several viewpoints and natural wonders (cliffs, blowholes, ravines, sea stacks, sea coves) The site is very busy with tourists, good parking, a cafe, shop, we stopped for ice cream. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5831d3a3d.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf511e5d1.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6fd7e1d38.jpeg A blow hole https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c1b9a8f3e.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...252dcff5b.jpeg Another blow hole https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d09fd129a.jpeg Stunning coast https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9337f7496.jpeg We missed the Punakaiki cavern, which is nearby (take a torch). Slightly north of Punakaiki is the Truman track (a 20 min walk), this is so lovely, thick forest, mosses, tall tree ferns and tiny ferns, huge trees, nikau palms, then the coastal flax, and the beach. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...60a8a5d73.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...097f00f03.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a9dfc7b51.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4f1493c82.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5785c544a.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d49e9ea63.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a0084ac5c.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8610af423.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e0c993346.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e4dc8dd75.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...087c40846.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b7ea04877.jpeg Further north we stopped at Fox River and a few lookouts. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5652d0578.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af8c92a93.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...91a92388f.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...207aba3b1.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...81dbeeb22.jpeg We walked from Pororari carpark to the lookout, an easy and pretty 20 min track one way. There is a longer option, or the loop track. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3984867f3.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9df659cb.jpeg For those heading even further north, as per our original plan : Cape Foulwind: Drive to Tauranga Bay (car park has toilets), it’s 15 min to seal colony lookout,- can continue on along the Cape Foulwind walkway to the lighthouse. https://awaywiththesteiners.com/cape-foulwind/ https://hikingscenery.com/cape-foulw...oogle_vignette https://www.tripideas.nz/hokitika-to-westport https://www.doc.govt.nz/globalassets...aiki-walks.pdf caving options https://caverafting.com/ coal mining history Denniston https://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Attra...th_Island.html |
Thanks, tripplanner.
It’s been a fabulous intro to the wonders of NZ! I love the big drama stuff, but also the little things (the tiny ferns, and mosses) Day 4: Punakaiki Forecast sunny, 21C 10C when we got up at 7 am. Nice to feel cool, Adelaide has been so hot and dry. Had checked the low tide forecaster (9:40 am) and planned to leave before 8 am (20 min drive south of Punakaiki past Barrytown) to optimise timing for the walk to the sea stacks at Motukiekie Beach. Parked on a layby roadside (near the Kararoa sign, where there is beach access) and walked about 30 minutes, as the area closer to stacks are steep cliffs without access. Ideally begin walk about 90 min before low tide, to get some time to explore. Can’t walk the beach at high tide. It was still in shadow until the morning sun cleared the cliffs. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e9675785f.jpeg Beach still in shadow when we arrived https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d7feb6e09.jpeg Beautiful rockpools https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...70c123398.jpeg It was actually really windy https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...621367b1d.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2697279db.jpeg Fascinating geology https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a06d2cad4.jpeg More rockpools! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...26a660666.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...892a5b4ae.jpeg Reflections created a nice mirror effect https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e968ed31.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...53f34a855.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a3e034d1.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...72b58160b.jpeg holiday shacks https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...086c99533.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c4e7137a9.jpeg the cliffs are starting to lighten up https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d1b5be012.jpeg School kids exploring later in morning, gives some context to size of sea stacks https://www.zigzagonearth.com/motuki...h-new-zealand/ https://motorcamps.com/content/motukiekie-beach-walk https://www.intrepidlife.com/motukiekie-beach-walk/ they clamboured down the cliff, but it’s easier from the beach My photos are deceiving, there was a ferocious wind and it was gusty, so took photos and explored rockpools when wind dropped. Have seen photos of low tide and windless day, looked like could walk around the sea stacks. We spent about 2 hours wandering, without getting as far as the stacks themselves. A really stunning beach, the forested limestone cliffs, the rockpools, the layers of ancient rock, the thumping waves. Unfortunately, another vehicle clipped our parked hire car while we were on the beach, we had parked in a wide lay-by but those that don’t anticipate the turn in swerve too sharply at speed. We had checked out the parking options on our drive up from Greymouth, so were prepared. The next photos are from the Punakaiki river area, where the Punakaiki - Pororari River Loop walk can start / end, and Razorback Point later in the day (near our accommodation) https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7d9405011.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa6d1baec.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e496a8d1a.jpeg We did not visit Coal Creek Falls, but was a maybe on my ‘to do’ list. From my notes : It is just a few streets off the main road in the little town of Runanga. From Greymouth, head 10 minutes north on State Highway 6 (Seven Mile Road) Turn right into Seddon Street, right into Fraser Street and follow the road as it turns into Ballance Street. You will find the Coal Creek Falls track at the end of the Ballance Street cul de sac. There are a few parks here, or just park on the road side if it is busy. |
lovely photos.
|
Day 5: Punakaiki travel day to Fox Glacier township
Sunny day today. leaving Punakaiki and a last look at the sea stacks https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f3ff9d481.jpeg lots of haze Map : https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...81fd820b2.jpeg 250 km supposedly 3:5 hours non stop to Fox but shopped in Greymouth for supplies and petrol, and visited Hokitika gorge. Add 30 min each way for the drive in and out from Hokitika, plus 90 min for the walk. So we anticipated about 6 -7 hours We had a packed lunch and planned the Hokitika gorge walk (90 min return) The 30 minute drive from Hokitika town into the gorge area is pretty, picturesque farmland and approaching mountains. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23f0d8ef1.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d19815dcd.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...99de1d802.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b36bf55bd.jpeg Good car parking and toilets at the site. Lots of campervans. https://westcoast.co.nz/visit/discov...okitika-gorge/ This is a popular walk, we heard many languages spoken. A very well maintained track, easy walking, some boardwalks and suspension bridges, and just stunning. Turquoise river colour, the forest walk, it’s all so gorgeous. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...72a31e08b.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b03d472c2.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4832ab31d.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...63654e93d.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9783cf6bb.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3d5501a5d.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...25a341d84.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dd9171753.jpeg Our picnic lunch! Perfect spot. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d9536322a.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...50265efe5.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d64b5aea1.jpeg We ate our picnic lunch on the rocky outcrop at the riverside. Had my sandfly repellant on and long sleeve shirt. No bites. Return drive the same route, passing through Hokitika which looks a nice town. Hokitika town to Fox took 3 hours (roadworks) https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e76f609d6.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0dc4c0c77.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7146b93b8.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c17c81fed.jpeg Nice driving, skirts coast and farmland, distant mountain range, then into lush forest and twisting, hillside roads. Passed through Franz Josef, which was buzzing, lots of people at cafes, car parks full, looks a nice town though. Another 30 minutes of twisty road to much smaller and quieter Fox Glacier. We are staying here, just outside of town: Mt Cook View Motel 203 Cook Flat Rd, Fox Glacier https://mtcookview.co.nz which is on the Lake Mathewson Rd. NZ $840 (approx Aud $775) fantastic value for self catering accommodation bungalow over a long weekend. Older style, large roomy spaces, very clean, basic kitchenette. Very comfortable, happy with our choice. Apparently these 2 units will be remodelled next month. Owner’s dogs are an added bonus. They pop around looking for treats. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a00074e98.png https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...adeb409d01.png Checking out the potential https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c871dfbe8.png Nope, nothing appealing (we were having muesli) see ya! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...63cd2ad97f.png Oh yes! The neighbours! That’s more like it. They’re cooking bacon! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...72cfa0fc0.jpeg |
Thanks for sharing your trip. Love the photos.
|
Day 6: Fox Glacier
Cloudy, cool, still, max 18C Drove 30 min to Franz Josef to do the short walks there, lots of parking at end of the Glacier Access Rd (turn left from FJ after bridge) and toilets and several walking trails. Franz Josef Glacier Valley walk 30 min for glacier views, Sentinel Rock lookout is 20 min, Peter’s Pool is 20 min and can be joined with Douglas walk 1 hour. Seems incredible to be at a glacier, in this rainforest and so close to the sea. Stunning walks, understandably popular. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...734bcdcb4.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dc3197cb3.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...99d156065.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9ed40efc2.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...959968a03.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c9bb7902.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f1b90f810.jpeg we had our picnic lunch on a bench with this view… https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bfbfcc5cb.jpeg then a short wander to Peter’s Pool https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c610d4849.jpeg Peter’s Pool https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...714344526.jpeg We considered Callery Gorge 90 min walk had we not visited Hokitika gorge. This starts on other side of FJ township. |
Day 7: Fox Glacier
Cloudy, cool, no rain, max 18C Today we drove to the Fox Glacier Southside viewpoint walkway, just over the Fox River Bridge (car parking but no toilets). https://www.glaciercountry.co.nz/gct...kway-cycleway/ It’s a flat, wide, well maintained path to the first glacier viewpoint - and is absolutely stunning. Huge trees, encased in vines, fallen logs with mosses and lichens and tiny ferns, tall free ferns. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c3be281382.png https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...edf52dfc8a.png https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1b5ddb630.png https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...be3d99883c.png https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dc348851b3.png https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...112d070aa7.png https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dc2d486246.png https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0a4ccc88cb.png https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...298fe0063a.png https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11586dde57.png https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...427bf6d131.png https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6432550e74.png https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16a1736194.png https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b03741ed95.png https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7cdf404d63.png https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3a0dc7507c.png https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6e25a2b6fc.png The Moraine walk is a short walk that is just enchanting, a narrower path, steps, rocks, tree roots, fallen trees, a real magical forest feel. So delightful, savouring the little details, the fascinating life on the dead tree trunks, the roots wrapped around boulders, I didn’t want it to end. The Moraine path rejoins the Southside walkway. A bit cloudy for great glacier views, but just a wonderful walk. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e2e4d37c1.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c9691c1b4.jpeg We had packed a picnic lunch and ate on some rocks amongst the ferns. Perfect. We have been self catering since Christchurch, eating very decent stir fry veg / chicken, lamb chops, with pasta or potatoes, type of meals in our kitchenettes / bbq. Tonight we are dining out at Betsey Jane Eatery and Bar, just down the road. They don’t take reservations, and open 4-9 pm, so go early. We were there by 5pm, and shortly after it was heaving. There are few choices here that are more upscale restaurant, rather than ‘open all day cafe style’. Anyway, we had a great dinner and dessert, 3 glasses wine, coffee (NZ $141), and good chat with the couple at the neighbouring table who are from Switzerland (we love Switzerland, interesting to hear their view on cost of living and ‘too busy’), they would have moved to NZ if they were younger. They have travelled here several times and 50 days in a campervan this visit. Surprised that it is Saturday night of a long weekend and there are ‘vacancy’ signs out. Fox is much quieter than Franz Josef, but I did expect it to be busier. |
Wow Ade, that is such a rarefied part of the world for most of us. Love love love those river, ocean and gorge shots.
Incredible natural beauty and your itinerary seems bang-on to experience it. I am done. the Mother Nature TR |
Oh my! Thank you so much for sharing this incredible trip!
|
Simply stunning. I appreciate getting glimpses of the west coast of the South Island through you as I've not traveled there. Parts of it reminds me of what we enjoyed on the Kepler Track on the southwest corner of the island.
|
You know I'm in. Wish I was there.
So different from Adelaide, yet so relatively close! Enjoy all that green. |
What a wonderful trip, Adelaidean! Stunning pictures in a country really privileged with the so much natural beauty. I love to see the green, thick forest with moss and ferns, and also, the high mountains, beaches and rivers. You are lucky to be relatively close to it.
Thanks for sharing it. |
I’ve got to share the dinner as I want to remember to create the dessert…
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e0be459d.jpeg the steak and mushroom sauce was delicious, and the salad was great https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34f8f6795.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...186bd9a10.jpeg So good - I am going to try to recreate it the ever changing light on our backyard view: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...269728e23.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b775b30ce1.png https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ac15ce4c3d.png https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...86a3728d4.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9cb2bbe44.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e7d3db51.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ffa783993.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...abe5a3427.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fa2b392c7.jpeg thanks for your comments and interest. |
Day 8: Fox Glacier
Best day of forecast, sunny and 19C Of our 4 days, we had a single sunny day here, so our days were organised around that forecast - forest walks on the cloudy days and helicopter ride for him/ Lake Matheson for me on the sunny day. DH had booked the helicopter flight for 10 am, meanwhile I went to Lake Matheson about 9 am to walk the loop around the lake. Met at the lake cafe 2 hours later. The lake walk is supposedly best in morning or evening, on a clear still day, for those reflection views. It’s another lovely forest walk, with 3 lake viewpoints. The jetty section is best, and I had it to myself for awhile. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d84f95603.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...70b69bc6e.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5049aabd6.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...200e4375d.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b947cfc33.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7bcae993a.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e8855b897.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4e375b816.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...919812beb.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...75df0a47e.jpeg We lunched at the excellent cafe there (it’s for sale), really nice salad with my veggie slice. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...977193d37.jpeg Also drove on a bit to the Glacier View Access Road nearby, for views of the Fox Glacier. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...802438ed5.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b76644ae4.jpeg His day: it was the 2 glaciers and a landing, 30 min option, he loved it https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2890f9594c.png https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...97b180b3f1.png https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5a4a6bc21d.png That’s a mountain hut down there https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b5dd9ed463.png https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0feaff9b5f.png We did the Minnehaha walk before dark, although it is popular at night for glow worms. Starts at the edge of town, short and sweet, perfect for kids. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...73e62a08a.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2e21c5541.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08c4b9edf.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...793408e19.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f7fad1d53.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b5f0ba72b.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...219df5c6c.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...054f2e69a.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d18558d0b.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...47f1741e4.jpeg Not another person. So peaceful and magical. Another day in paradise. |
WHAT A TRIP ADE! Your remark about 'not another person' really puts that area into perspective.
That shot with the fence and the mountain peeking through is a Hall of Famer. Bookmarking then bookmarking again. I am done. the awe |
beautiful photos
|
Day 9: Fox Glacier to Wanaka travel day
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3befcada5.jpeg DE’s describe this as a demanding drive, winding road, with much to see so stop often, and recommend to do the short walks. Clear and 17C leaving Fox, mostly overcast rest of day. It is 4 hours of straight driving, but with a few stops (although not Blue Pools which is closed) we took 5.5 hours. Knights Point lookout has toilets/ car park, then 10 min to Ship Creek stop for Kahikatea Swamp Forest track 20 min walk + Dune Lake walk 30 min looks promising, but we didn’t stop. Stopped in Haast (early lunch of a seafood basket, shared) and then the road turns inland again. https://www.doc.govt.nz/globalassets...y-brochure.pdf This is such a ‘wow’ drive from Haast, the pass, the waterfalls, then the mountain ranges, and the lakes. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...615c5071c.jpeg Not much room on the single lane bridges.. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8cbd1838f.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e1b3537e9.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f8f7f3f1d.jpeg We stopped at some of the waterfalls and lookout points: Roaring Billy Falls (20 mins from Haast on the left, signposted with car park) 15 mins walk on a flat, rainforested track, easy and good leg stretch stop, falls are viewable from a distance away. Lots of sandflies! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d06d395a.jpeg Another lovely short walk https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e34528770.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...07b513c71.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a65c64191.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...915366ce0.jpeg Small falls across the river Thunder Creek Falls (40 mins from Haast, can park either side of road, 2 mins walk from car park, 28 m high, really pretty, do stop) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...796544702.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1e1b365a7.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...70755aadc.jpeg Blue Pools https://www.newzealand.com/au/feature/blue-pools-track/ currently closed due to open end March Then the lakes lookout points : https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f2d13eef1.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41facac3f.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cc8941351.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf06a8fe4.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...116aebd7b.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...627490999.jpeg All stops are well signed, with carparking, good paths, and they break up this beautiful drive. Settled in to our accommodation and shopped for our supplies at the New World store by the lakefront. The town is buzzing with people. It’s 25C and people are at lakefront, jogging, shopping, wandering streets. Spectacular setting with lake and mountains and beginnings of autumnal foliage. Our accommodation is so peaceful and quiet, as we are behind the main house which is on a 5 acre property, a 15 minute walk to lakefront. |
What an amazing trip so far, and gorgeous photos! I'm in love!
Thanks for taking the time to post them and thanks for all the links you are including. The trees, moss, ferns...I can't believe they "live" next to glaciers. We're planing a NZ trip next year, and I'm taking copious notes. The problem is that all that does is to make me add more days in a lot of places on the list, and add days in places I haven't even considered!! What a beautiful country! I hope you'll continue having good weather, safe travels. |
Adelaidean, Wow!!! I am so excited to see your report! Kudos to you for writing and posting "live". There is no way I could do that. I am so excited to relive our trip through your TR, and to also see places we didn't get to see. Looks like your accommodations in Christchurch are close to where we stayed. We walked to the Botanic Gardens and to Fiddlesticks. I recognize some of the buildings. It's nice that you took photos of the lovely homes. And happy that you enjoyed your meal at Fiddlesticks.
It's interesting to see your close up photos of the rocks at Castle Rock. We stopped there for a very short walk and to take photos but we didn't have time to linger. We were driving from Methven to Franz Josef that day where we had to cancel one night because of the road closure at Haast. So our only time to see the glacier was on our driving day. I love your close up photo of FJ Glacier. And it's so nice to see the Pancake Rocks in the sun. Our one day there was heavy rain and very windy. I did the walk myself (my husband stayed dry in the visitor center) in the pouring rain. It's nice that you spent 3 nights there. You were able to see so much. I really appreciate seeing that area in the sun through your photos. And I love seeing the Fox Glacier area, the Lake Matheson walk, and the drive from Haast to Wanaka through your photos. All of that was on our itinerary but we had to change our route because of the road closures at Haast. I always wonder about what I missed, so now I can see what I missed!:) Are you staying at Archway Motel in Wanaka? I think you told me that once before. That's where we stayed. A lovely place in a convenient location. The manager, Mark, is very nice and helpful. Looking forward to more! |
Adie, so glad I stumbled on this! This TR is getting saved into the "dreaming of future trips" area! Love those walking paths in the fox glacier area, posts #11 and 18 for example.That's our style these days. Safe travels!
|
Hi zebec!
You might recall us trying to choose between Spain and NZ last year. Your photos after your trip had me regretting our decision. But, this has been great. I love forests and exchanging our heatwaves for this cool and lush environment has been wonderful. Thanks xyz99, hope you have a fabulous trip. The paring down is hard. We have been very deliberately slowing down, and I think our pace isn’t the usual. Most seem to do our itinerary in 2 or 3 weeks. Thanks northie. Hard to take a bad photo. Hi Karen. You know how fun it is to read reports before and after a trip. What you are anticipating, then how did someone else do it/ experience it. Much of what we are doing would be very uncomfortable in the rain. So good weather is much appreciated. We are staying in a unit on a private property, not a motel. On writing as I go, I have all my links and plans on a document, so I’m just adding the actual details and photos. I would never get to it once home, I have a weekend off, then work. My father had a fall and is in hospital, my son is doing the domestics, plus hospital visits, so we have a lot going on. Decisions to be made, and helping my mother. Plus, my garden will need resuscitating, it’s been hot and dry. I’m expecting losses. The dog will be crazy happy. So there’ll be lots of love needed there too. If I don’t do it now, it’ll not get done. And I’m grateful to everyone that makes the effort to write a report, it’s how my itinerary came about, so it’s payback (or forward..) Nelson, nice to see you here. Your walks have always been much harder than ours. There are so many great day hikes or multi day hut to hut hikes, which we didn’t attempt. I recall your wife has ongoing issues with her back, but if flying and walks are in her future then there’s great variety here. We average 5-7 km of easy walking per day. |
Day 10: Wanaka
Weather : 22C, passing showers, windy, mostly overcast Very slow start, then coffee and pastry 10 minutes away in Albert Town https://www.pembrokepatisserie.co.nz Great way to start the day. Then checking out Wanaka’s lakefront, and bays, Eely Point, the very wild and windy Brenmer Bay, Glendhu Bay, the park. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...28b4cd9b2.jpeg Grey and windy https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...475c40d11.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...afc3ed1a7.jpeg Glendhu Bay https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...817fb0d13.jpeg Autumnal foliage https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f25993370.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11bdf8629.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4c113bbaa.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...faefee7d7.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...581d5e4c1.jpeg I have serious tree envy, the huge pines, elms, ashes, are thriving and enormous. We went to the Rob Roy Peak carpark to see the start of the trail.. It looks a tough hike. Way out of our fitness level. https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re...ys-peak-track/ it is described as ‘easy’ on this site, it sure didn’t look it. Other sites describes it as ‘moderate’, and a long slog. The views are spectacular, so it is busy. I found this online.. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1d4538e20.jpeg The queue for the view! Other options nearby: https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re...s/wanaka-area/ No shortage of things to do, plus a variety of excellent restaurants, and good shopping. We really like this town. It’s not overbuilt, and caters well for travellers. |
Day 11: Wanaka
Fierce wind overnight, cloudy, cool, max 15C Slow day, and walked a sheltered area of bay to Waterfall Creek track. Very pleasant and gentle walking about 5 km. This side of the bay hosts ‘the Wanaka tree’. I wasn’t sure why it was so well known and photographed, when water levels are higher it sits in some water, and can look quite interesting, but there are many much nicer willows on the lakefront https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4bb057584.jpeg The Wanaka tree https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...94fb62306.jpeg This one is striking… https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf26b94aa.jpeg These are also lovely trees And while I’m obsessing about trees, …look at these huge trees towering over this cottage… https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d531f108.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7cac5f250.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cf29da2b5.jpeg |
Day 12: Wanaka
Set the alarm today for 6:30am, as we have an outing booked - it’s 2.8C outside!! But, forecast is for 22C and sunny - (Which is forecasted to reach by late afternoon, lol, it’s only going to be 5C at 9 am) Best day of our stay so had booked this half day cruise Mou Waho Island. https://www.wanakacruises.co.nz/experiences/cruises/ NZ $169 each (3 hours: a 9 am cruise, booked 3 days ahead after checking weather) There are shorter options to other islands. Perfect morning, still and clear. Water so gorgeous. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...348c5be15.jpeg walking the lakefront https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c0c1ef5f8.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4e66b9ae4.jpeg at the wharf https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c9cb79493.jpeg Boat took 25 minutes to get to the island, and it’s an exhilarating ride. Mountains, the clear air, wisps of cloud. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...683c9d3a6.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ddb3e1f5c.jpeg And we followed our guide up the track to the rocky outcrop that overlooks the little lake (Arethusa pool) on this island. If you were brave enough for the cold and swam to the little rocky boulders in the upper lake you’d be on an island in a lake, on an island in a lake, which is on an island in the ocean. It is a 30 minute uphill hike. Amazing views. Department of Conservation do great work keeping it predator free https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re...anaka-islands/ most threat coming from rodents hidden in boats over the winter and then unwittingly transported by locals. Part of excursion cost goes to DOC. ***having trouble posting photos now, hopefully can add later** |
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08a62a186.jpeg
Arriving at the island https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d425f6f1e.jpeg Starting the hike https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b7afdb1f8.jpeg The lake on Mou Wahu island that is on Lake Wanaka https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7df85e4c9.jpeg The rock lookout is above https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0bf78d335.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...93336021d.jpeg Looking down on 2 separate lakes https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...120b2c682.jpeg It’s a beautiful day https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff1a6b808.jpeg Mountains all around https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9ef935822.jpeg Leaving the island https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7b2d98bd0.jpeg Fabulous day |
Couldn’t add photos that I’ve stored on my iPad. So went back to my phone.
Anyway, we had a great lunch at Bombay Palace, Melnq8 recommended it and so glad she did. It is upstairs, with a fabulous view, and we dined well on their sunny verandah. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...62137e4fb.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...505533653.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fb90f6222.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...46295b3cb.jpeg and our host gave me a garden tour, so that ended a great day https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...58fa3eb07.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b8dadafb5.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ffc503edd.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b0673e4ce.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b2bb92d0.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...07b712a00.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...531ed90ba.jpeg |
That last batch of phone photos are great - crystal clear on my 43" computer screen.
Glad you liked Bombay Palace! |
Your imagery has a freshness born of the fact that few Fodorites have been there. Most of us have never laid eyes upon most of those locations.
I am done. the ongoing awe |
I am fascinated by all the trees and vegetation. And the blue skies...
|
Adelaidean, love all of your photos, too. We ate at Bombay Palace twice, once in Wanaka, and once in Queenstown. The food is delicious at both restaurants, but the Wanaka restaurant is nicer than the one in Queenstown. The Wanaka restaurant has delicious gin and tonics!!!
For some reason we didn't see the Wanaka Tree. But agree that the trees on the lakefront are nicer. We really enjoyed Wanaka, too. Loved strolling along the lakefront. |
Wanaka looks gorgeous. We only briefly stopped there on the way from Aoraki to Queenstown. Definitely need to spend more time next time.
|
Testing my photos - some from the island cruise :
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2cf1defb7.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...afb4edf29.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5d2df25b1.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...710fa6657.jpeg the Buff Weka, protected on this island https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37e152d68.jpeg I ended up doing a screenshot of my photos, didn’t know how to convert file format And these are from after I changed format the morning we left Wanaka was calm and sunny, we had another wander before shopping - https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e8ff20cc.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...207e6cb2a.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...68286c3a3.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40f505862.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6ba39778.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...84b24ed03.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b7892773.jpeg Such a different experience to our first day, when it was so windy, and dreary https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d60e257ad.jpeg Interesting choices https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2d65fc066.jpeg NZ wines https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7595cfa01.jpeg My selection |
Of the 4 Whittakers chocolates in your first photo, we bought 3 of them except for the Nelson Pear and Honey. We also bought the Gisborne Orange and Hazelnut. Gave them away as Christmas gifts and kept a few for ourselves. They are all delicious!
|
Whittaker's...yum. I just bought a dozen bars in Sydney when I was there over Australia Day, but unfortunately am down to just two more.
|
Whittakers....yum....
|
Whittakers ... never had. Looks like tough to get in the States. My wife would like the 72% dark as that's about all she eats in chocolate these days.
Originally Posted by Adelaidean
(Post 17639698)
Nelson, nice to see you here. Your walks have always been much harder than ours. ... We average 5-7 km of easy walking per day.
Continued great report and photos, thanks! |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:12 PM. |