Terminal 3 at the Delhi airport is a real surprise, it seems that almost everything is still open at 4:30 in the morning. Transitting it has become much easier, no transit visa required anymore.

Bob, Muffin said I have zero. Hance of getting him to India, so either I go solo or with a pal... Ahhh the dilemmas in life, although to be honest India is not high up my list....

Bob- keep the reports coming I'm enjoying hearing about the "challenges" that always seems to be a part of a trip to India. For us- when we vacation - we would rather avoid any challenges. We want to be pampered- no roughing it, no surprises!

Just reading and trying not to laugh too much (just kidding) - I am looking forward more than ever to you and K sharing your experiences with Smeagol, David, Jeane and I in NYC in December.

Nicky, I am going to personally make a pitch to David to travel to India with you - I am sure that will make a great first impression...

david would last about 5 minutes here before he blew his top and stormed back to the airport---someone has to set the standard and i can't think of a better person to do it!

All in all, Bob, you are enjoying your trip...it appears!

When we travel, it's always a trade-off between staying in the old city, right in the thick of things and putting up with B&B's, small hotels etc with various levels of upkeep OR going for the modern hotels but slightly outside the main hubbub of the old city. Most of the time we put up with the small hotels in the old part of the city....and then, take a day or two off to stay in a modern hotel....usually a chain just to calm the nerves. This we do all over the world, Europe included. Hopefully, you will have better luck when you check into a heritage hotel sometime in your trip.

And now you have been to, perhaps, the one continuously occupied oldest city (Varanasi) and seen an orthodox pilgrimage city. You deserve to get a certificate saying "I survived Varanasi". M & I are adding Varanasi on our next trip to India, perhaps next year.

Waiting for the next segment...Kathmandu, I believe.

Mag---take a look at palace on ganges for your varanasi stay.
more $$ but worth it.

Sunday Nov 6


Even though we were in a fantastic Marriott Courtyard, more like a JW, I did not sleep all that well. We did love the hotel.

Saturday night we talked to two different men in the club lounge: one a nice guy from Indiana who sells systems in India, Africa, and S. American and another Indian American who is working on setting up cancer clinics in India. Maybe I am repeating myself??

We had nice drinks and hors in the club. Later we had Marriott burgers in our room. We never have room service.

This morning our pick-up was at 10:30 for our flight on jet airways to Kathmandu, Nepal. The drive to the airport was only 20 minutes. Check-in and security were very swift. Luckily we got a ride to our gate, #9, because it must have been ½ mile and there were only a few walking sidewalks in this wing.

The flight loaded quickly but late. We were seated in an exit row and I was told I could not sit there as I require a seat belt extender (for fat people). Eventually I moved further forward to an aisle seat and a free middle seat. I was surrounded by ladies going to Nepal with habitat for humanity. I had a nice conversation with two of them. K stayed in her exit row seat and had the whole row. We had been told the flight was oversold.

We had to circle KTH for perhaps 20 minutes as traffic was heavy. The landing was fast and the plane lurched to the left and I thought we might turn over. It was a bus gate. We already had our visas so we were about 5th in line while about 300+ others stood in the visa on arrival line. The airport is very old.

Getting the luggage was a cartoon for sure. Belts are way overtaxed and stopped a few times. There were 2 or 3 flights at the same time in a small area. The floor was strewn with huge suitcases. Think trekking eqpt.

We had trouble finding our driver, but eventually an unshaven man held up a hyatt sign. Instead of getting into a nice hyatt van we were put in a scruffy old mini wagon. We sort of felt like we were being kidnapped. The sign holder eventually talked to us a bit and we relaxed. I let the hotel have it when we arrived. We will see if they adjust the price.

The hotel is quite attractive on the outside and the rooms have a colonial feel about them. I am paying with points or free stays. We are on the club floor and its drink time. TTFN.

Drinks and hors were good, especially the French Himalayan cheese.

We are trying the Med restaurant tonight.

Waiting for more. Get out of the hotel and explore for us! I especially want to know how different Nepal is from India and if it is worth visiting if one doesn't plan on doing a great deal of trekking.

Definitely worth visiting if you don't trek. Did you read my TR from last year? Less hassle than India.

Loving your report - thanks for the weather update.

We'll be on an escorted tour so it will be different than what you're experiencing. We usually prefer something along the lines of what you're doing - some days on our own, some of it with a hired driver or guide for part of the day. Wondering if fodorites would be interested in hearing how a group tour actually is vs. DIY. There might be value in letting people feel superior in their independent travel - not stuck with a bunch of tourons in a herd ;)

You were charged for your Hyatt airport transfer? When we were there it was free, and they used a hotel van. There were probably half a dozen of us in the van.

I'll be interested in your impressions of Kathmandu as you are coming from India.

It is late morning now and we spent 1 hour waiting for the travel agent in the lobby to help us and 10 minutes booking 2 1/2 day tours. $70 each day in private car with guide.

we plan to go out shortly and wander around and drop off laundry near the big stuppa as a shirt washed in the hotel is almost $6.

The main circular road we drove in on yesterday was very dusty and heavily polluted. There were many shops along the road and a few markets. The Hyatt is an oasis in the city about 1.5 miles from the city center. This is an hotel for westerners. In general i think this place may be cleaner than india, but far more dusty. Thus far the people are very lovely and friendly, just as in india. I think the chaos here is different from indian chaos.

Monday Nov 7


Decent breakfast, then spent some time with the travel agent in the lobby, although 2 hotel employees had already approached us about tour plans. We settled on two 3 hour tours, one tomorrow at 10 to Bhaktapur, and one the next day at 11 for a tour of Patan and Kathmandu Dunbar Squares, where we may return on our own on our last day along with a visit to Tammel. $70 each day with guide and car.

We caught up on a few things in the room and about 11 headed out with our laundry to the main street. We walked right by it and had to double back. Stuff takes 2 days. About $6 for a ton.

It was just a short walk down to the main gate to the large stuppa. We paid our 150 ($1.75) each to get in, and the stuppa and allied activity were fun and interesting. Lots of tourist and some nice shops ring the stuppa, as well as many roof top restaurants.

We looked with much interest at “singing bowls” but have not bought one yet. They are alms type bowls made of 7 metals and when rubbed properly vibrate and “sing”.

We stopped at a roof top restaurant about 1 for some momo—chicken dumplings. It was fantastic overlooking the stuppa and the square from the roof top. We visited a really nice antique furniture shop in the same building---the chest I wanted was $200 (without any bargaining), but $500 to ship.

We walked more and then headed away from the stuppa becoming a bit lost. We asked for some directions and finally took a cab, about the size of a skateboard, back to the hyatt. There are two prices here, local and foreigner. For the taxi I paid 200 and a local would pay 50-70.

K is currently ironing on a doll’s ironing board and I am doing internet, as the sun begins to decline.

BTW, today we can see some large hills out of our room window. The smog causes us to cough a lot.

Another update…. The alleys and streets we were on today were in far better repair than in India, and we saw very little trash around. People use their horns here too but not as much as India. Having said that, I do feel that India is more colorful. There are way fewer beggers too. People seem cleaner here as well. Lots of ethnic outfits here as well, but most people have western dress. The cars seems older and smaller here and there are way less motorbikes.

Dinner will be in the hotel tonight, a la carte from the main restaurant after drinks and hors in the club.

Bob and Karen, Thoroughly enjoying your report. Can't wait to see Karen's purchases.

I'm heading to Tibet, Nepal and Bhutan in about 18 months, with maybe a return to India. I'll be interested in hearing more about Katmandu and look forward to your reports when you get back to India and visit Jaisalmer. I missed it and have always regretted not going. Let me know if the regret is worth it : )

Look forward to seeing your photos too!

Bob, I have just written to Karen about where to buy a singing bowl - Patan. You'll want some time in Patan not only to see the lovely Durbar Square there, but also the fabulous museum located in the old palace. There os a fabulous fair trade handicrafts shop between Patan and Kathmandu that I have recommended to Karen.

Enjoy!

kathie we did reread your trip report last night for some pointers.

Tuesday Nov 8

We ended up with not needing any dinner last night…


Our driver, and guide (Gangga) were waiting for us at 10 as promised. Gangga is an older man which matches perfectly with my mobility needs. We drove south east to Bhaktapur, about an hours drive. We even got to ride on the so called china highway which china built for them in the 1980’s. Traffic was moderately heavy. The sights along the road were interesting as were some of the buildings. Gangga told us the day might be quite clear as we could already see the hills quite well. December and January have the best visibility.

At the entrance to the airport we saw a squad of policemen with battle gear—rifles, shields, helmets, sticks. We were to see more later in the day.

At the end of the road we came to a large gate and this is the entrance to the world heritage site, one of the best preserved and most authentic looking ones we have visited. Entrance fee was 1100 Rs each ($13.75)….

Immediately after passing through the gate your eyes feast on many fantastic buildings, shrines and decoration. This is a living agricultural town where people live along side the tourists. It goes on and on. There are tons of small shrines, and many big ones too. There are large animal sculptures lining stairways going up to the tops of shrines. There are muslim holy places, we could not go, but we could look in.

The wood and stone carvings are unreal and very intricate. Some are exotic/pornographic and some are very religious. Some depict daily life and farming.

The town is famous for many things but its carved windows are especially popular. They are intricate for sure. Many reproductions are available and I am considering one, just as Kathie did in 2008. Pottery, especially black pottery, is thrown here, primarily by people who do not own land.

The town is full of shops selling both junk and high quality items. K bought a very nice red pashmina for $85—he started at $200. She feels she paid a decent price--$50 would have been better. It is amazingly warm and very thin… it can pass through one of her rings—a demo the shops like to perform.

We visited the chicken market, we saw lots of rice being combed over on the street while it dried on mats. I took a ton of pics of people---they were about 95% willing.
We saw the famous religious paintings which are done in B..

Everywhere you look there are carved items... The detail is amazing. The 55 window palace, renovated in the 1980’s is amazing. The royal baths with the fantastic animal spickets were dramatic as was the bath itself … We saw a golden gate, a peacock window, tons of shrines and very friendly people. Of course they all love a fat man.
This is one of the best ½ days we have ever spent. We look forward to Patan tomorrow.

The late afternoon was spent in the lounge over cookies and cold drinks, and later in our room peering out the windows at the hills and snow caped mountains as well as the large stuppa with its gleaming gold top.

Now I'm hearing enthusiasm. Wasn't sure you felt the same in Varanasi. "one of the beat days we have ever spent" makes me want to pack my bags!

sorry if anyone read negetive into my report... i found the ghats an interesting experience, but honestly the rest i could have done without, esp the hotel i chose--- it was ok, but our bathroom was not up to par.

we are loving it here even though the arrival situation was not the best.

after so many asian journeys our bar is very high.