WHY INDIA, PART II, THAILAND AND NEPAL
 

We last visited India in 2006 and it was only an 11 day Golden Triangle tour on our own with a driver and guides where needed. Some of you will remember that I was not overwhelmed by India itself. As time has passed and I have thought more about that experience I have decided that I was wrong and that in fact India is one of the true hotspots on the earth. For the last couple of years we have wanted to return there. We have enjoyed trip reports from Kathie, Craig, Dogster, Lcuy and many others making this desire even more intense.

So, with this in mind, I put together this year’s Asian trip. We will visit Thailand for about 10 days (our 15th visit there), then move to India for several weeks with a 5 night sojourn to Kathmandu, Nepal in the middle.

Finn Air, whom we have been very impressed with in the past on other trips, offers good service to both Thailand and India and had exceptional pricing, so I went with them for the trip. They also have excellent time schedules arriving in Bangkok mid afternoon and leaving Delhi mid-morning. We are able to collect American Airlines FF miles as well which makes it even better. To some the layovers in Helsinki might not work, but for us it is an added bonus (15 hours going and 22 hours coming home). They also fly air buses with 2 X 4 X 2 seating which is a plus.

I might note here that airline pricing from a major international location, like NY, DC or LA often lightens the cost load of a ticket… Flying from Boston on a combo ticket with Finn Air added a huge amount to the trip price, same with Korean. We could fly on jet blue and others to JFK, but I find it easier and cheaper to drive the approximately 4 hours in a one way car rental for about $100-125, instead of taking a car service to Boston Logan 2 hours or so before flight time and paying over $100 each for the flight to JFK. It only works because the Finn Air flight isn’t until about ~6PM. Coming home we will fly Jet Blue from JFK to Boston.

So with the main International flights in place I began my day to day planning for the 6 weeks. We talked with friends about joining us for all or part of the trip and in the end there were no takers. Gpanda would have called them victims…. We knew we wanted some Thailand time both in Bangkok and at the beach. The subject of getting from Bkk to India at a reasonable cost might prove to be a problem. I knew Air Asia had opened up flights which we might use through KL, but then they began service directly from Bkk. There were the Indian carriers as well and Thai air, the most expensive. Eddie’s pricing was not all that favorable this time ([email protected]) so I knew I would be on my own. I finally settled on Kingfisher Airlines, a highly regarded Indian discount airline (this week there are reports of trouble with them---damn). A one way flight through Expedia is $116 plus $65 tax each--perfect. So now we were all set to get to India. Our first stop will be Kolkata (Calcutta).

In the meantime I had some communications with Arvind at Castle and King in New Delhi ([email protected]). I told him what I was planning to do, and he has made the driver/guide arrangements for us for much of the India experience, but not all. I have done 100% of the hotels online myself. In Kolkata we will be 100% on our own and will not have any C&K help until the airport pick-up in Varanasi.

So the places I will ATTEMPT to tell you about below are the following: NYC, HELSINKI, BANGKOK, KHAO LAK, KOLKATA, VARANASI, NEW DELHI, KATHMANDU AND AREA, UDAIPUR, JODHPUR, JAISALMER, BIKANER, JAIPUR AND GURGAON. I hope to cut back on the details, but probably will not be able to do so as this is what I find so interesting myself about every Fodors report I read. In fact, sometimes I get mad when people are cheap with their observations and commentary.

Having given you this introduction I will print below the details I work with each day on the trip so I know roughly what will be happening on each day:



THAILAND, NEPAL, INDIA
OCTOBER 18-DECEMBER 1, 2011

M 10/17 Budget Car, Norwood--Pd
T 10/18 Bos-JFK-Helsinki Finn Air flt AY006 dep 1740 (8.10 hrs) 27 J&L
W 10/19 arr Hel 0850 Holiday Inn, Vantaa Airport Finn Air flt AY095 dep 2340 (10 hrs) 27 J&L
TH 10/20 arr Bangkok 1345 Marriott Resort and Spa, Bangkok-Br
F 10/21 B shop
S 10/22 B shop--books 3:30 GTG @ Maeng's--Side Pocket, Suk Rd
S 10/23 B dim sum?
M 10/24 B 8:30 breakfast at hotel orphanage Pook?
T 10/25 B-Phuket Thai Air flt 215 dep 1415, arr 1535 Pure Car JW Marriott Resort, Khoa Lak-Br none
W 10/26 KL
TH 10/27 KL
F 10/28 KL
S 10/29 KL to Bangkok Thai Air flt 214 dep 1525, arr 1650 Pan Pacific Svc Apt. Soi 55 Sukhumvit none
S 10/30 Bangkok to Kolkata, India (CCU) Kingfisher Air flt 22 dep 1615 arr 1730 ITC Sonar, --- SLC, Kolkata 2 D&E
M 10/31 K
T 11/1 K
W 11/2 CCU-Varnasi, India Jet Airways flt 2641 dep 1105 arr 1235 p/u by avrind's driver Temple on the Ganges
TH 11/3 V
F 11/4 V
S 11/5 VNS-Delhi, India (DEL) Kingfisher Air flt 336 dep 1240 arr 1440??? reconfirm -- Marriott Courtyard, Gurgaon, India
S 11/6 DEL to Kathmandu, Nepal (KTM) Jet Airways flt 262 dep 1240 arr 1440 -- hotel p/u-see hotel sign Kathmandu Hyatt
M 11/7 K
T 11/8 K
W 11/9 K
TH 11/10 K order -----
F 11/11 KTM-Delhi, India Jet Lite flt 7056 dep 1515 arr 1625 Av's driver Courtyard, Gurgaon
S 11/12 Delhi to Jaipur Avrind's driver 0930 make stop @ Neemrana Four Points Sheraton, Jaipur
S 11/13 J
M 11/14 J
T 11/15 J-Udaipur, India Sheraton Udaipur Palace-Br
W 11/16 U
TH 11/17 U
F 11/18 U add celebrity info
S 11/19 U-Jodhpur. India Ratan Villas, Jodhpur-Br
S 11/20 J
M 11/21 J start Malarone
T 11/22 J-Jaisalmer, India Nachana Haveli, Jaisal.-Br
W 11/23 J
TH 11/24 J-Bikaner, India Hotel Bhanwar Niwas, Bikaner
F 11/25 B
S 11/26 B-Jaipur, India Marriott, Jaipur-Br
S 11/27 J-Delhi, India Hyatt Regency, Delhi
M 11/28 D-----driver to shop
T 11/29 D driver to shop Marriott Courtyard Gurgaon
W 11/30 Delhi to Helsinki Finn Air flt AY022 dep 1050 (Av's driver) arr 1450 (71/2 hrs) Sheraton Kamp 27 J&L
TH 12/1 Helsinki to JFK Finn Air flt AY005 dep 1410 arr 1555 (8 3/4 hrs) 27 J&L
Jet Blue flt 1016 dep 1759 arr 1918 Bos 3 C&D



Finn Air locator -------------- 800-950-5000
Thai Air locator ----------



Hotels are extremely expensive in India so I wanted to see if I could cut expenses a bit here. I was quite successful. I have used some Marriott points; some Starwood points, plus cash; some free Hyatt nights from their initial credit card offer; some Hyatt points and finally some plain cash to secure decent accommodations throughout the India and Nepal portions of the trip. I am very pleased with what I have been able to find in this regard. Only one hotel, the Palace on the Ganges in Varanasi required the awkward pre-payment that many request. I did this through a wire transfer from my investment house.
Most of the hotels are 4* by Indian standard and 3 of them are heritage type small hotels.
I see no need to spend huge amounts of money for an Oberoi experience at say $400+ per night. All of our hotels are set for the trip. I find the earlier that you process your requests the better the pricing, especially with the International standard hotels. From time to time during the planning process I recheck the pricing, often finding lower prices for a short period, which I grab…

The trip begins on Oct 17 when we pick up our pre-paid auto rental from Budget (mid-size) at a local office--$89 all inclusive---the best deal I have ever found. We head for NYC mid-morning on Tuesday the 18th.

We arrive in Bangkok one week from today and look forward to it, flooding or not. Stay tuned for more.

Bob and

Bob and Karen

sorry the schedule came out so jumbled--it is fine on paper

Wow. Your first installment is longer than some people's trip reports.

Have a wonderful time. I'll look forward to hearing more of your adventures in Asia.

Thanks for the update, Karen. I love the caps and correct grammar!

shelley--- you know how brief i am

Can't wait for all the details. Have a fab time. By the time you are back we shall be meeting up in NYC.

Very interested in this.........having no real India experience.....and having it high on our list.
In spite of our differences, we probably have very similar requirements.
Really looking forward to hearing every little detail.

But Bob, please......take your time with the typing.....you know??

Very much looking forward to this report - I am sure everything will be 100% perfect over the 5 weeks you and Karen are in India ;-). I think its funny that you do the same as I do and note when to take your travel meds on your itinerary.

I'm sure you'll have an amazing trip! I look forward to your report and to your updates while you are on the road.

Will you be doing one of the Calcutta Walks while in Kolkata?

Gawd, Bob, why are you staying at ITC Sonar in Kolkata? It's 20 - 30 minutes away from everything. If it's just to save $$ and use points, it's not a smart move. The Taj Bengal is running 8,050 for your dates - much cheaper, closer and way, way better. Sadly, the Oberoi is booked out.

dog, i'll check it out

leigh---some of the fun of reading one of my trip reports is trying to figure out what the H i wrote..

nicky---looking forward to our meeting in nyc in mid-december...tell muffin wearing ermine is all the style and he will be mobbed by all the A listers..

Bob- what no seat assignments for these flights?

we just had the best indian meal ever, i guess there is no reason to proceed with our trip... even in the darkest needham, we have good indian food... lcuy can vouch for it..

Hey Bob, I am hurt you didn't ask me to come along, because I would have said YES!

Oh well, I know this will be a great trip and an even better report.

And I can certainly vouch for the Indian restaurant in Needham. It was great! You and Karen and I went there on our first (very blind) date.

Bob and Karen, Can't wait for your trip report! Have a fabulous time.

bill... the finn air flts are all in row 27---2 seater

He made a goof already. We are staying at Temple on the Ganges, not Palace. Got to watch him all the time.

Bob - I get what you mean about feeling underwhelmed with India. That was my initial impression, although ultimately my husband and i found the trip fascinating and were happy to have traveled there. We are just downloading our pictures - they are incredible and we can now reflect more on portions of the trip that already seem so long ago. What is most incredible though is that I have been having vivid dreams nightly, returning me to India. In all my travels this has never happened. India definitely gets under your skin.

Your report is so organized and off to a great start. Looking forward to your report. Make sure you dont miss the Lassa walla shop in Jaipur.

Bon voyage, Bob and Karen. Our thoughts will be with you as you honor Gpanda's memory in Thailand. Please let us know about changes to the BKK Mariott Resort.

I look forward to following along on your report.

Wow!

Will be jealously following along and taking notes. Linda and I will be in Japan the last three weeks of your trip getting home around the same day so I'll save our trip report till we get back as this one will be taking up all the oxygen in here :)

Utilizing points and good planning you would do well in Japan......you would overflow the onsen though......lol

Lucky for us Karen is around to correct and pick up after you.

Aloha!

I am so excited for your India trip to begin. We leave for India in 8 weeks, so I eagerly anticipate your trip reports and any last minute tips.

I've enjoyed everyone's India reports thus far, but think your traveling style may be most similar to mine and my husbands (for better or worse), and based on your recommendation I am using Castle & King for part of our trip. Look forward to posting our own report once we return.

Have fun. Hope you don't freeze in Helsinki.

We have some polar tech with us, which Bob doesn't think he will need. Ha! I am planning on wearing mine. Maybe even in Nepal at night.

I was in Nepal in November last year, and I don't remember it being especially cold at night, at least in Kathmandu. Phulbari, on the other hand....

"...I get mad when people are cheap with their observations and commentary."

LOL!

femi---you are not one of them!!

Have a wonderful trip Bob....well planned and a good start to a detailed report.
Looking forward to following along with you.

I am sure you will enjoy India.

Good luck with the flooding in Bangkok.
Bon voyage.

Whew!

we are all packed... the snow stakes have been placed in the front lawn even though the leaves are still on the trees. we've been to the dump and tomorrow the door storm windows go in. BRING ON BANGKOK!!

Boy, the things some countries will do to keep Bob from returning: a flood of historic proportions in BKK!

Have a great time.

Hoping you remembered wading reef boots (as per lcuy on my facebook post) and a life raft (as per one of my BKK friends who frequents the PL)!

I am packed as well, and should probably start my own trip report thread!

See you soon.

C

Bob - Can't wait to read your report. I have re-started my own trip report from the beginning and promise to try to finish it before you get to that portion of your trip.

I wanted to thank you for your recommendation of Castle and King. Arvind, the company owner is a real gentlemen. His drivers were all extremely competent and we felt safe with them at all times. On our return to Delhi, we met with Arvind to pay him for his services. I could not believe he didn't want money up front. Upon meeting with him, he offered us a complimentary car and driver for our first day in Delhi as his driver was available. Suni was a wonderful young man and spoke English quite well. Unfortunately, at the Lotus Temple, my husband was pickpocketed. This was at the end of our day so we returned to the hotel to cancel credit cards. Arvind emailed us upon learning of the pickpocketing and kindly offered us money and assistance if we needed it. We would recommend this company and its services highly. Thanks again.

glad you enjoyed C&K's services.... i am anxious to use them again next month when i am in india...

i will be looking for your report june. i so enjoyed your past ones and of course karen loved your vn notes... even though at 75 pages they were way tooooo brief...

we had dinner at similans in cambridge tonight (thai food) with mrs gpanda and a friend and it was a great prelude to the next two weeks...

Hope you had a great flight to BKK. So envious of you trip and sad not to be meeting up with you guys in BKK this year, sigh.. Will have to miss out on our BKK winter sun fix. looking forward to your trip report.

So, the trip begins……We departed the ‘dreaded’ Needham about 10AM in our rented Sonata headed for JFK in NY. A short stop at K’s mother’s to drop off some of K’s nearly famous meatballs and pasta for her dinner, and we were on the road. Traffic was light and it was a bright dry day for the 4 hour drive to JFK.

We had a quick stop just north of Hartford, CT at Rein’s Deli to enjoy good sandwiches for lunch and then back on the road. We had 2 brief slowdowns and arrived at JFK with plenty of time. The car rental area is off to one side of the airport entrance and the overhead free tram is right there to whisk you to your terminal. There is a gas station right there too. Our car rental was a pre-pay from Budget for about $90.---excellent rate.

Finn Air is in terminal 8. We were 2nd in line to check in and 1st in line for Immigration. It all was a breeze. The waiting area is very comfortable and the passed quickly. While we were waiting a small group of secret service types had formed next to where we were sitting. The incoming Finn plane arrived and a middle aged red headed woman was greeted by what appeared to be embassy people and she was escorted away---no immigration, etc.
We began to board about 5:10 for the 5:40 departure… The over head bins on this airbus 330 are medium size and my carry on needed extra prodding to fit. The seating is comfortable but tight… We are in the 6th row of economy, just at the front of the wing.

We pushed back 5 minutes early and are 7th in line to take off. The seating is tight but comfortable in the 2X4X2 configuration. Dinner is served not long after takeoff and complimentary wine (r & w) is served. Drinks are available from the drink cart for a fee. No entrée choice—chicken/turkey with a delicious sweet sauce, fried potato cubes and green beans. Wine service was repeated 3 times more.


The on board video system offered about 15 movies, video games, tv, and other options. K used it a bit but I listened to music for the whole trip. A sandwich was served before arrival in Helsinki---good multi-grain roll and really good ham and cheese.

We arrived in H 30 minutes early at 0820. quick move through Immigration—2nd in line… No bags to pick up as they are checked thru to Bangkok. Out to the curb for our free shuttle bus to the airport Holiday Inn, where we had stayed before. I chose it because the restaurant was good and decently priced in this very expensive city.

We were in bed by 0215, Boston time. We slept for about 7 hours getting up about 4PM Helsinki time.

Our plan is to have a nice dinner in the next two hours and leave for the airport about 9PM for our 2330 flight directly to Bangkok where we should arrive about 1:45 PM---yeas, no late night arrival!!

Bob-I thought you usually do not check bags and go with just a carryon? I take it your not concerned about the checked bags getting lost. I'm trying to see if I can pack in just a 21 inch rollie for my 3 week trip to Myanmar because I am concerned about the checked bags not arriving in Yangon when we do.

we always check bags... on our plane you would have had trouble getting your bag in the overhead... in cental rows bins it probably would have fit..

its just too much trouble to carry everything on... my carry on is an 18" i think..

Shelleyk - We always take a 22" roll on and a backpack each as carry on. Never a problem except occasionally on small airlines and then it hardly matters as those are usually to and from small airports where nothing is getting lost anyway. You'll find you can pack a lot more than you think in those small bags. Usually my back pack has only a book (this time a kindle) and my camera. You can use the extra room to bring back souvenirs.

Sounds as if the VIP on your incoming flight was Tarja Halonen, President of Finland (separated at birth from Conan O'Brien)
http://tinyurl.com/3mvccn8