Kathie - I'm not sure Bob is confused about the cows on the road...may he is figuring that there is a lack of cows as they are being eaten by the Muslims. My husband who could eat hamburgers daily, longed for a good burger while we were in India, but to tell you the truth, I thought it was quite a turn off when you see the garbage those city cows eat.

We here in HI know all about rhkkmk's <i> mistakes</i> (mostly on purpose). He likes to see if we are paying attention to what he writes......don't humor him. Probably craving a hambie right about now.....

Aloha!

you got it!! but not an HI hamby

We ate in the hotel at the general restaurant. The buffet is 1500 Rs but we did not want that much so we ate a la carte. I had a shrimp and chicken marsala pizza and K had chicken stroganoff. Our young waiter insisted that we have a dessert from the buffet which he would choose. We ended up with a plate of 4 western cakes/mousse, all chocolate and a plate of 4 indian desserts (two delicious custard type dishes and a small cheese ball with honey and a boring cake soaked in something). WAY MORE than we needed or wanted for sure---but we were not charged for it---extra tip for him.

Bed and tv followed (Anthony Boudane (sp) in Italy.


Tuesday Nov 1…. 11-1-11

FINALLY SOME MEAT TO THIS REPORT… Breakfast buffet leisurely. The concierge had scheduled the same driver we had from the airport to take us around the city for 5 hours (1500 Rs)… I chose an 11 AM pickup which we were told was perfect as we would avoid the morning traffic.

We told him, the driver, that many of the places on k’s list (prepared from a nice booklet that the concierge had given us) would only be drive-bys but that we would want to visit some buildings… My camera was ready and I was pleased with the quality of pics thru the windshield and side window….I sat up front and K spread out in the rear.

Driving here is like driving in most of India---a bit of a chance. We were often cut off and we cut people off often. We squeezed thru tiny spaces with only an inch extra to spare. He proved to be an excellent driver.

Construction is everywhere, but that could be new or decades old—nothing is ever finished here. We drove past Eden Gardens, a large park area and cricket stadium. There were goats being herded in 3 places there---quite amazing in the middle of a city of 15 million people---8th largest urban agglomeration in the world. Eventually we reached St. Pauls RC Church, which is set in a small parkland of its own. The outside is very English in many ways, but the inside was quite a disappointment. A couple of stained glass windows, a simple alter—more like a school stage and tons of fans hanging from the ceiling.

BTW, we again found the temp/humidity to be quite pleasant---no sweating at all. K also reported in her notes that our hotel was about 20 minutes into the central city, not 45+ as many others had suggested.

From there we did a drive-by with a photo stop of the Victoria Memorial, which today is a huge art museum, which did not interest us at all (150 Rs/). It is a very impressive building looking somewhat like the US Capitol.

We then drove around Ft. William, a very large military reserve right in the middle of the city. It has its own golf course plus tons of fields and military buildings. We drove along Red Road, a large avenue upon which Indians were prohibited from walking in British times. We drove by a number of football clubs (soccer) which is popular here in Kolkata.

We reached the Hugli River and got out to see the activity there. Quite interesting but filthy. Kolkata is a huge worldwide port city. Thru the rest of the afternoon we were to see the river quite a bit. People were “cleaning” themselves, washing clothes and having religious experiences there. It is sort of Ganges lite.

We drove to the High Court buildings which are very attractive. We drove right on to the grounds and thru the busy streets around it. Traffic was unforgiving and heavy. Attorneys wear very formal clothing. Their frocks are all black and long, looking much like a US graduation gown. They wear a stiff white shirt with a high pointed collar and some sort of additional white neckgear.

We saw men with typewriters on the street preparing documents, etc. BTW, carbon paper is still widely used here. We passed a sidewalk tea shop where local workers were sipping small cups of tea. K points out the parking situation which was non-existent, so cars were just parked helter skelter.

Next we visited St. Johns Anglican Church. Our driver said that many by-pass this place, but we found it probably the best stop of the day. Set in it’s own grounds, the golden building really does not look too church-like. It does have a spire, very much like small English churches. On the untended grounds there are a number of graves and memorial buildings. One of the most interesting is the memorial to the black hole of Calcutta, which was moved there in 1940.

We drove by the impressive GPO and the near-by Writers Building, both of which are impressive colonial style buildings.

We later drove by the old buildings (only 1 remains) of the East India Co along the river.

Nearby is a huge market area.

We then drove across the famous Haora bridge to the city of Howrah. We passed another large market along the street and the huge railroad station. The flower market is in the same area but winds down after 8AM.

From there we traveled to the back door of the Botanical Gardens. We parked there and entered for 50 Rs each. Shortly thereafter we boarded an electric tram which took us all around the garden for 30+ minutes. The driver pointed out many rare species of trees. We saw only 2-3 areas of flowers. Much of the garden is overgrown with weeds.
This is a favorite meeting point for young men and women. Almost every bench was their afternoon perch.

We drove back to the city over the “new” bridge which is quite impressive.

We made a short 30 minute stop at the new market. K bought a new watch for 400 Rs. Any bets if it continues to work thru dec 1??? She looked at shoes, but did not purchase.

Our last stop was at the Sisters of Charity. Located down an alley, this modern venue developed by Mother Teresa is very impressive. Her room and her grave are located there.

It was approaching 4PM at this point so we headed back to the hotel.

This had been a perfect day for us and was exactly what we wanted to do. I gave the driver a 30% tip as we were very pleased with what he had done for us.

Last night during dinner the chef, who roams the dining room, asked us what he could make for us. We had already ordered but discussed local possibilities for tonight. They will prepare a chicken roll-up -- to be described after we eat it.

The driver will come for us tomorrow at 8:45 for our 11:05 flight to varanasi via lucknow—jet airways-- $26 + $60 in fees.

A good start to our India adventure..

Bob, it's fascinating to read of your introduction to Kolkata. We spent one and a half days with Calcutta Walks, and what we saw and what you saw had very little overlap.

I look forward to hearing your impressions of Varanasi.

Great start. Amazing, isn't it - how buildings remain incomplete all over India. Kathie - did you do a report on Calcutta? I'd be interested to compare your notes.

I did - it's toward the end of last year's trip report
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...p-to-india.cfm

remember kathie that my mobility is not what yours is these days..

Enjoying your report. I especially like the food descriptions and how you do not feel obliged to eat all Indian food all the time ;)

I can't figure it bob is eating Marsala chicken (Italian) or massala chicken (Indian)!

ok, the chicken... When we got to the dining room no msg had been left about our meal... fine. we described what limited knowledge we knew about the product and they understood.

Essentially what it is is a warm chicken rollup on a flaky roti and then surrounded with a paper to hold it together. The inside was delicious spicy (almost too spicy) cooked chicken pieces within a thin egg omlette, chillis, peppers, marsala and maybe some other tid bits.

We asked about having something with it, but they really did not understand so we had it solo. For dinner, we could really have had something else too, but we survive. The waiter brought us another sweet curd/yogurt pudding, and i had seconds. It was the sweet pudding we had loved the night before. 1300 Rs with 2 big waters.

Now for my Kolkata GM experience--- you knew there had to be one. This morning i asked for a copy of my bill, based on previous sheraton experiences. I found the room rate was almost double what my confirmation showed.
I explained it a number of times and the clerk kept saying something about exchange rates. Finally he saw the light.
I told him we would come back after dinner. We did and it was not ready. odd. He gave it to me and we went into the lounge to listen to the quartet play while i checked it. He corrected one night but not 2. Back i went, but i was not as nice this time.

We had noticed a large group at the front door awaiting someone important. The GM stuck out in this group. We saw him later and I inquired if he is the GM---Yes. I told him my simple story and my new found annoiance. He apologized and said he would check with the front desk. I thanked him.

TV and bed.

Great start to your India trip Bob....except for the bad cold.
Glad you are almost over it.

Can't help noticing that you found the skype phone helpful. Is this a stand alone phone...or do you add this feature to an iphone...or what? More details when you get a chance,please.

Bob, gpanda would be laughing his head off!! What's with Bob and hotel GM's.

I can't figure it bob is eating Marsala chicken (Italian) or massala chicken (Indian)!

As for skyping - we also used skype while in India. If you have an iPhone there is a skype application you can download. Be aware that unless you have a sim card or unless you have a free wireless connection, the cost of using your phone can be expensive. If you put your phone on airplane mode it will prevent extra charges. The skype costs pennies to use if you have a wifi connection. I was also able to use my iPhone for free Internet service whenever I was connected to wifi.

Well, bravo Bob, you've managed to miss out on Kolkata entirely. Not easy - but you've done it. Enjoy Varanasi.

Kathie - thanks for the link. I missed your report first time around but loved the pictures and your wonderful description of your first trip to India.

au contrare.. we have visited kolkata and have come away with what we wanted.

i have skype on my computers and i just call it up and then dial phones anywhere with the small credit i have in the system. i put in $10 and it refreshes from my checking a/c as necessary. long calls home only cost pennies and are super clear.. margaret will explain it to you. haha

Very much enjoying your report.

Au contrare.....is that French for "jelly donut"? Time to wake up and continue please.

Aloha!

more coming later today... it is almost typed... power is out just now at hotel

Not much different from Connecticut (starting day 6 without power)...