Just catching up. Great report! Gujarat does look interesting--particularly Bhuj. I am trying to recall Mahashivarati because we were in India a couple times during this festival. Is it right before Holi?

CaliNurse---Thanks for sharing the new photos too. Amazing places you have visited.
My trips have been mainly to the bigger cities and have missed all these secret spots most tourists do not even know.

I think you had good guides to assist you. Now you are an inspiration to all travelers dreaming of visiting India.

Your photos have captured the real India.

Have a great evening and enjoy the memories and of course, keep sharing, so we can enjoy too.

Yes it used to be called circle campus originally. Now its in the IMD or Illinois Medical District with us, the legendary Cook county Hospital, now Stroeger, West Side VA and Rush.

If you are ever in Chicago let me know. I would love to swap stories and treat you to a meal out.

Enjoy St. Johns. Sounds like the break you need right about now. :).

@JulieS: glad you are enjoying--especially has you've spent so much time in india! Mahashivaratri was about there weeks before Holi . I think the Shivaratri is celebrated at different times of the yr, but the Maha(great) Shivaratri is usually in February.

@Ileen: I really appreciate your very kind and generous comments!! Yes i did feel very humbled and happy to see small, off the beaten track, rarely seen places. Having a great local guide helped tremendously in Gujarat. Many people, unlike in the larger cities, spoke no English...or only a little Hindi.

@Jacketwatch: Thanks for the info on "Circle" --and especially thank yo for the sweet invitation!! How did you know about me needing a break? Great RN assessment skills!!

Having returned a couple days ago from relaxing in beautiful Coral Bay,St John USVI, with lingering laid-backness,I'm feeling naughty for neglecting this thread, and am posting the next flickr album. Will write accompanying narrative soon in future trip report entry; meanwhile, there are brief descriptions attached to each photo. Enjoy!!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...57682527180025

Again very good pics. Having been to India 7 times I think your pics capture it. :).

Seven times, JW!!? Since you know the country JW, both in visits and via your knowledge via your wife and her family, your saying the photos capture the country means a lot. Thank you!! Apologies for delay in replying, and completing the trip report. In London now but have "good intentions" (you know what's said about those!) to add more after returning home next week.

Simply amazing, enjoyed reading every bit of your TR! My family is from Gujarat, I too haven't been to several places you have been to. I wish you had been to Modhera and Patan, just a couple hours away from Ahmedabad.

Cali is your passport running out of pages? :D.

Ashwin, thank you!! I went to Modhera, and Patan, (and Siddhpur that day too!) and those "chapters" with photos are coming up!! Check this page in the next day or two.

Jacket watch, fellow nurse--- lol. My first passport did indeed run out of pages and I had to go to the local USA Consulate, in Bangui, Central Africa Republic, to get the folding pages attachment. That was in 1971!! That passport is one of my most treasured positions and includes stamps from all over Europe, Africa, Turkey , Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan India and Nepal. Ahhh...those were the days!! But I digress...

Just back from a week in England and will continue Gujarat report shortly. Apologies for the delay. Thanks to you guys for your interest, which keeps me motivated to post more.

Ok. Awaiting..:).

Oh, good! Can't wait to read about the rest of the trip and see your wonderful photos! Almost like being there!

Your old passport has quite the collection!

It's always a great day when I wake up to a new CaliNurse post....

Thanks for the smile JW. Thank you, Progol and Sartoric!! Sartoric, I hope your day is great...so I'll try to have another album ready by tomorrow!

Without further ado, and as before, with descriptions under the photos, here's another album. This was the "winding down" part of the trip, with the usual mixed emotions that come with awareness it would be over soon. For me, India trips always end, simultaneously and intensely, with "I can hardly wait to get home" and "I can hardly wait to return"!! bet y'all know the feeling!

Interesting to see Gujurat's wild and very pretty asses (-: compared to the asses wandering the tropical Caribbean hillsides of St John USVI where they are the "butt" (haha) of lighthearted jokes, tee shirt insignia, etc. I'm not sure of the Hindi (JW--help?) or Gujarati term, so maybe it doesn't sound funny in translation.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...57679893455394

Really enjoyed viewing the rest of your Flickr albums. My favorite way is to click on the first picture up to full screen slideshow, then stop the slideshow and navigate at leisure with keyboard arrows. At that size I felt I was there with you! What a fantastic trip. And so much wildlife in Little Rann of Kutch! You certainly enjoy contrasts, going from that harsh dry landscape to the verdant lushness of St John!

I also love the photos! I'm so amazed by the women leading their camels carrying their children and belongings! Fascinating.

I even love that you went to a place called "Little Rann of Kutch" - sounds like something out of Edward Lear, doesn't it? I agree with rje, though, the contrasts you experienced are amazing to see. I'm really enjoying viewing your trip vicariously!

@Rje: ah, the contrasts! Not just between the desert here, and the Caribbean's tropical "verdant lushness" you characterize well...but even that day, the desert to the beautifully landscaped grounds of that night's accommodation. See photos--never did bougainvilleas look more welcoming!

@Progol: yes, the nomadic travelers, with their entire households, were amazing to see. Yo got me!! I had to look up Edward Lear!! The Little Rann of Kutch. Could be a nursery tale. Or a Latin story., with echoes of Charo and "Cuchi cuchi!" There's also the White Rann Desert. And Kutch has numerous spelling variations, including Kachchh.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...57683446699696

OK folks, we're close to the end of Gujarat adventures. These photos were taken on my last full day there. The next day, I headed up to Rajasthan. There is one last Gujurat album once it's sorted, for a future post. AshwinB, if you're still following, this album includes the photos of the Patan and Modera areas you mentioned.

As with previous shared albums, I've added descriptions/comments to each photo.

To appreciate the "thought I'd died and gone to Heaven" comment about Rann Riders, you have to know just how bad the previous place, Shaam e Sarhad, was. I posted about it on March 29, above, and have written a detailed tripadvisor review, should anyone be tempted to visit it. In the album above, the first photo is especially for you Progol, as one of our first Fodors Forum conversations related to closed vs open showers in India!!

Years ago, Dogster posted that he hated Rann Riders, but I didnt recall him giving specific reasons. Yatendra , who's been accompanying guests here for yrs, explained that 'til about five yrs ago, RR was going way downhill--mice (or worse!) in the rafters, maintenance and cleanliness problems, mediocre food, etc. Then, a new place opened a few miles away.Because it was modern, and lower-priced, people flocked to it. Rann Riders owner took notice, and cleaned up --literally--his hotel's act. It is now beautiful, with lovely rooms (round huts/cottages) and landscaping, attentive and courteous staff, and very good food. And after an afternoon in the desert heat, the ac felt marvelous!!

Beautiful photos CaliNurse, so evocative and colourful. The Rann riders hut reminds me of where we stayed in the Sunderban, although not nearly as decorative and the food was more like your previous lodging (dreadful).

CaliNurse, beautiful photos of those buildings in Siddhpur. Great colors and textures. I tend to love the buildings the most that have a bit of age showing, and patina.

I understand the relief you must have felt when you got to Rann Riders. I have had my share of Shaam e Sarhady type places, and when they are followed immediately by a great place, it feels wonderful!

And how funny about the Google app, but also a great idea! Reminded me of when we happened to see a Google vehicle in Vientiane photographing the streets for Google Earth. That was jarring! Especially because it looked so incongruous, being all covered with bright shiny multi-colored Google branding

CaliNurse,
You're too funny! Of course I remember the exchange on Fodors about open vs closed showers! The lovely shower at Rann Riders is discreetly separated, though, with a small step - unlike some of the open showers I've seen! But I see it's not enclosed - was the water nicely contained or did it spray everywhere?!

LOVE your photos - the architectural photos, showing the lovely pastels, are wonderful -- I have to admit, I'm partial to the unrestored houses, though of course, if I were actually living in one, I'd want to polish it up, too.

And I loved the shots of the schoolchildren by the stepwell -- the blues and pinks (oh that gender identification!) really stands out against the browns and subtle greys of the structure.

Rann Riders does look lovely! Whatever motivated the owner to clean up the place, he did a great job.

Love the photos. Bookmarking.

The best I could come up with is gadha in Hindi and ganhedo in Gujarati.

However I am not the guy to ask about language. During our first trip to India I was told of a term of respect in Hindi for an eldest SIL but when I tried to say it to her she and two of her lady friends were aghast! Turns out I mispronounced it so badly it came across as "she is my old goat." :D.

Fortunately they were all English teachers so it took them but a short while to figure it all out and they got a good laugh out of it. I felt very lucky. Thank God. :D.

Jacketwatch-(-: at different meanings conveyed by tone and pronunciation the world over, with sometimes hilarious results--as in your experience.

OK gang, this is the last of my Gujurat Flickr albums. It includes photos taken at a village that's off the beaten track, in the north of the state. The gracious warmth and friendly curiosity of the people was touching and wonderful, part of a lovely last evening in Gujarat which included visits to the local royal family's horse farm, and a delicious dinner at their home. Comments/descriptions are attached to the photos and as always, I welcome comments/questions.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...57681883237241

The trip continued for another four days across the border into Rajasthan (three days in Udaipur) and then a flight to Mumbai for the last day. I'll post those pix and mini-reports separately.

Wonderful photos CaliNurse, so evocative and alluring. You might recall I mentioned earlier the five years between our first and second trips to India. Well, DH threw a casual "when we go back to India" into the conversation tonight, so I'm ecstatic. Looking forward to your take on Udaipur and Mumbai.
Thank you !

Love the report! Great way to spend a morning. And the pics!

I (or more, my family) have always been a little apprehensive about India, mostly because of the impression of it being full-on pressure. From videos, reports and such, mostly. We've enjoyed trips in tout-ish sort of places (Morocco, Cambodia) but India seemed like a step up from that.

I think I'd really enjoy Gujarat though, from your report. Being able to move around and see a glimpse of local life without being followed and all that would be great.

Thanks so much for sharing it.

CaliNurse, I so love these photos! The shots of the villagers are so intimate and they clearly felt comfortable with you in the way they engage. I have loved all your photos on this trip - you've captured the color, craziness and warmth that is so special in India - but I'm especially captivated by the many faces in these pictures! Beautiful photos, amazing trip!

Oh, and the shot of the dog and the terracotta horses -- priceless!!

You saved some of the best for last of this amazing trip!

I imagine those goats cautiously approaching the "Bump Ahead" and stepping gingerly over it, minding that they don't scuff their hooves!

I have fond memories of the Aravali Hills. There are leopards in them thar hills!

I agree with progol, the POV of the dog gazing at the terracotta horses is wonderful! It looks as though he is addressing his troops before a battle!

Love that village near Danta. You took so many fine portraits there!

Thank you all very much for your comments, and for following along through this! You've kept kept me motivated!!

@Sartoric: Agreed--it's an addictive country! Coincidentally, on that last evening I met an Australian couple who were not only staying at the same small place, but also had their trip planned/booked by Tim@Indianpanorama. Before Gujurat, they'd been to Odisha and said it was amazing (and Odisha is not a "dry" state(-: ) It's already on my "next time" list.
Tim recommended this place and it looks great--not just the lodging, but visits to/ interaction with nearby folks. It's owned and managed by Leon, another Aussie. So you'll feel right at home (in good ways!). http://www.chandoorisai.com

@Progol: Indeed, I treasure the times, throughout this trip and previous ones, where there's a chance to speak with or even nonverbally "talk" with people. Wonderful welcoming smiles, without the least bit of hassle, made this trip very special! LOL the dog checking out the mini clay horses. Despite my attempts to lure the monkey down from the tree to join in the fun, he was having none of it!

@Rje: Yes, leopards and even tigers, per the villagers. In the Udaipur photos (coming eventually, in separate TR thread) you'll see pix from the 'burbs of Tiger Lake, eponymously named for the occasionally seen big cats in the surrounding hills.
The Canine General addressing the troops--love it!!

Thanks for that link, will have to work that village into our next India trip. Orissa sounds cool.

I've been working on another trip for later this year, first it was Laos, then Borneo, but I think we've finally agreed and locked in Sri Lanka ! As dogster would say "India lite", works for me...

"India lite" works for me too--looking forward to hearing about it! Dogster used to also sarcastically refer to "The Oberoi Bubble" but those occasional bubbles provide needed if brief breaks from intensity unique to Incredible india

Gujarat is Modi's State so money has been poured into it. The people have a better standard of life than the rest of India. Good to read your report. Must follow it if we follow our Gujarati friends there.

It's not 'Kai say ho' but kaisa hair.
In other words you are asking them the level of health they possess.

Danyavad pr Dhunyavaad is an pretentious old fashioned way of saying thank you.

Kaisa(y) ho- How have you been.

kaisa(y) hey - How are you. (Present context)

Subtle . Alphabet 'y' adds a degree of respect.can replace 'a' with an 'e' too minus the 'y' though.

Danyavaad - (Sanskrit) Thank you for giving.Not old fashioned but puritanical expression.Sparingly used.

Shukriya (arabic more commonly/widely used) - Thank you.

Weebale Nyo Nyo Cali!!! What a splindid report indeed!!

Thank you Inquest. Ahhh...you would have to remind me of wonderful Uganda!! Great memories of my trips,. and your fantastic trip report.

A puritanical "Dhanyavad" back to you!

Incidentally, I once used "Shukria" and was criticized for it. Go figure!