Maybe having the extended family show up for meet and greet is why Indian (and some other Asian) airports don't let you in without a ticket.

Weren't women's temperance groups a big reason for Prohibition in the US?

The haveli sounds nice, how did you pick it? Good to see a woman traveling solo. I did meet one in Goa on my 2010 trip, but in 2001 everyone seemed to be traveling in family groups.

Women's temperance was the key reason for prohibition.

Thursdaysd, I chose French Haveli after research on alternatives to House of MG, which is "the" place to stay in Ahmedabad, but is relatively expensive, and has a reputation for snootiness and unpredictable rooms (some great, others not). After checking with my always-reliable travel planner/agent Tim from Indianpanorama, who once again planned a great trip, I learned that other clients had enjoyed French haveli. I decided to try it and was glad for the decision. I also loved being able to support a good cause-- preserving the architectural treasures of the city. All guests I met there were women, mostly traveling solo, but also two designers from Mumbai who were in town to check textiles.

Jacketwatch, I enjoyed your comments. Great nurse minds think alike. The Chase Reserve CC is a great deal! Do you follow Million Mile Secrets? Darius, who started it, is of Indian descent.

Frst full day in Gujarat, in Ahmedabad:

The guide for the Gujarat trip arrived to French Haveli. In pretrip research, I'd read an article which mentioned their knowledgeable guide,Yatendra Ramlawat...and heturned out to be my guide! He didnt even know about this article! Here it is, with warning that it may entice you:

http://cda.thetimes.co.uk/tto/travel...cle3853534.ece

The reason for a driver as well as a guide in Gujarat? In most states of India, the driver doubles as an unofficial guide of sorts, although he isn'ta "licensed" guide. Fodorites who've had great drivers whose knowledge adds so much to a trip, will know this. However, in Gujarat,--probably due to its low numbers of foreign tourists--drivers speak/understand little or no English. Tim told me of French clients who had loved all their other trips to India, but despite his advice, refused a guide and ended up wishing later they had not! The few "foreigners" I met who traveled with drivers, also traveled with licensed guides. This reminded me of trip to remote northern Vietnam where likewise, a guide is a necessity if you want to understand or be understood in anything beyond sign language and facial expression.

So, we walked through the pol's twisting streets to the main road. Yatendra said, "Don't be surprised by the staring people--there are so few foreigners in Gujarat." I'd already noticed this --it didnt bother me, and a big smile is a great way to respond to stares. I also found immediately that surreptitious smartphone pix were taken of me. See Facebook group pages highlighting strange tourists!

Sharp contrast between the relatively quiet pol neighborhood of French Haveli --a few shops, lots of kids, a small Jain temple--and the busy main street. Noise of people's voices changes to loud horns, motorcycle rumblings, traffic. However, what I saw of Ahmedabad was relatively orderly and clean, compared to other big Indian cities. Amazingly, no near head-on collisions. As with all cities in India, there's huge amount of construction. One side of the river is the newer side. There's a riverside promenade which looks new and fresh and adds to the "cleaner" impression.

First stop: The Calico Museum. It contains spectacular collections of textiles, and other items (including miniature paintings, and Tamil Nadu bronzes). The grounds and buildings are beautiful. The tour guide resembles Seinfeld's "soup nazi"--while very much into and knowledgeable about the exhibits, her stye is such that you expect her to whip out a ruler and rap your knuckles should you misbehave. Every once in awhile you are "allowed" to sit for about ten seconds. Although the tour is 2.5 hours, it feels rushed. There are few written or oral descriptions along the way. Still, it is fascinating and impressive, and unintentionally fun, as it affords many opportunities for "bonding" with other tourists, in the form of rolled eyes at one more bit of docent discipline. Her strong accent made it difficult to understand her English--there were French and Italian tourists who were totally lost. At the end of the tour, Mistress pulled out a guest book and ordered "Write your name. Say how you feel." I wanted to write, "I feel hot and tired!" Learning I was American, the Italians asked "You like trampa?" Is that a type of food, I asked. After several attempts, i understood: Trump! My facial expression said it all, and they sympathetically told me to hang in there, as they did with Berlusconi. Fortunately, this was the last such enquiry I had until a week later.

There was a group of local design students on the tour (they too were alternately fascinated, amused, and put off). I figured they, being college age, would know a decent place for good cold coffee. Alas, it was not to be. The place they recommended, Shubas, started as a small university-area stand and now had several shops; it was not what i expected. It was nescafe and sickenly sweet ice cream mixed. Oh Vietnamese cold coffee, where are you?? (The search for proper coffee in Gujarat was futile, until reaching Bhuj House days later, where the owner had fresh-ground South Indian coffee beans served French press style---bliss!).

After the above stop, we headed for the Gandhi Ashram. This is where Gandhi-ji and followers lived for many years, on the banks of the Sabarmati River. Although filled with tourists (I, as usual on this trip except for The Calico Museum, was the rare "westerner") it's a peaceful ,garden like, filled with trees. There's a small museum with some of the implements he used. A true must-see place, very moving.

The day was uncomfortably hot--about 100F-- for this Bay Area person, especially after our recent cold and damp weather. Last stop was in a nearby village, Adalaj, home of a spectacular 500 yr old stepwell. You descend down many many levels (Sartoric, thoughts of you and your dislike of steep downhill walks!). A widowed queen had this built in memory of her dead husband. The ruler who built is did so only on condition she would marry him upon its completion. But after it was built, she killed herself by jumping into the well.

I noticed a wedding party and asked if I could take a few photos. The, bride, groom, and immediate family of siblings and parents smilingly agreed, and invited me to watch as the sister of the groom cut his thread bracelet--apparently a custom, once nice the marriage has taken place. Yatendra told me many wedding parties come to Adalaj Stepwell, although considering its tragic story, it seems a strange place for celebration.

Then, a bit of shopping. In these temps, I needed a cooler blouse! Fabindia had poor selection and bewildered looking staff (which for some reason, i find at nearly every Fabindia i've ben to) Next stop- the adjacent Westside which has inexpensive fixed price clothes --target-like---and friendly helpful employees. After finding the perfect item, we headed for Swati Snacks. It's well known in the city, and the New Delhi lady the night before had raved about Panki--rice pancakes cooked between banana laves.This was sooo delicious! Also got a sauce and grain dish that was very, very heavy. This was but the first of many Gujarati dishes I would describe this way. Finally, back "home" to the blissfully air-conditioned room at the haveli. I sat outside on the terrace attached to my room, sipping masala chai, and watching the local world go by. Later, there were fireworks from a nearby wedding, and music from the small Jain Temple across the alley.

Fantastic stuff CaliNurse, I'll be prompting DH to read your report. The time between our first and second trip to India was 5 years, I don't want to wait that long for a third.

Your eye for details makes me feel like I'm there with you. The French Haveli looks like a find. I made a note of that one. Nice to be in a quieter street, but still right near the turmoil!

"You like trampa?"!!

Such a sad story about the stepwell. And it has become a romantic wedding spot? Made me think of how so many couples make pilgrimages to Verona to have their pictures taken under "Juliet's" balcony. I have to wonder how many of them even know that was fiction?

Swati Snacks! That name jumped out at me, and then I remembered why... there is a branch in Mumbai that we nearly went to, but we ran out of time that day.

<i>music from the small Jain Temple across the alley</i> - was it exotically wafting, assertively blaring or maddeningly pummeling?

Amazing experience at every step!
Enjoying the trip through your eyes.

TY. I will look into that website. The 100K miles deal expires in 3 days I think, then goes to 60K so just be aware. You can also choose cash as well so while the 100k deal is available you can also get 1K cash back or #600.00 cash back when it expires.

I had no idea Gujarat was so different from the usual hustle and bustle of most of India.

That guide sounded like a piece of work. I can just see her say "no samosa for you.!" :D. I would have said no tip for you either. :). Sorry but I am big on being polite, especially if you are in the service profession and I do tip very well if the guide is such. She reminds me of the Russian women sitting all over the Hermitage whose one phrase in English seemed to be "Don't touch!" Grrr! Our guide Anna said they all used to be wives of big shots in the party who were forced to work after the collapse of the Soviet Union. No wonder they are grumpy. :D.

I would have loved to try French pressed south Indian coffee!! We had so. Indian neighbors and she would have some for us. Really good!

Still following and glad you are having such a good time. :).

@Sartoric, glad you're enjoying and that this brings back good memories. Re:the five yr break...it's funny about India. It's intense in a way that no other place is, at least for me. Despite great trips, I require major emotional recovery time! If you had a chance to read 'til the end of Indianpanorama's pre-trip brochure attachment (long but very informative) when you confirmed the trip, you'll have seen the beautifully expressed paragraph about this mixed-feelings state of mind, which I've always found to be accurate.

@Ileen, when do you leave for your adventure?

@rje, the name of the Swati Snacks dish was Fada ni Kichni "cracked wheat pulao served with curd." (I just downloaded pix, including one of the menu.) Sounds harmless, but while flavorful, it was heavy and salty. Yatendra later told me I'd eaten it incorrectly--it should be primarily lots of curd, adding smaller bits of the pulao, instead of how I did it, in reverse order amounts. The temple music--while I experienced variations on all the above at different places during the trip, this particular serenade lasted only about half an hour, and was fairly brief, somewhere between blaring and wafting! The wedding fireworks, however, had me wondering where, in assorted bags, I'd put the airline ear plugs! re: Verona pilgrimages and the movie "Letters to Juliet"!here's one story:
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worl...s-balcony.html

@jacketwatch , speaking of South Indian coffee, if you ever get to Karnataka's Coorg region, you pass through coffee plantations. One of my best India travel memories of all time is of the beautiful semi-open coffee lounge at Orange Country Coorg. The resort overall is ok (long story) but the coffee lounge is amazing!! All the beans are straight from their plantation, and the barista makes wonderful espresso drinks. Put it on your list!

Second morning in Ahmedabad. I woke again to the smokey scent of wood fires, opened the door to the terrace, watched the neighborhood wake up: people cooking on the roof; a guy saddling up his donkey;people taking bucket baths just outside their doors.
Still a bit queasy from the heavy dish the night before. The lovely caretaker of French Haveli advised toast only, plus black tea with lemon and honey. That became my morning drink du jour on this trip, even though future "unsettled" moments were rare. He brewed a pot of strong tea leaves so black it looked like coffee, served with local farm honey.

As I leave French Haveli, here are some thoughts. If staying, you're very much IN the neighborhood. One review on tripadvisor bemoaned the cow dung in the lane. Yup, that's part of the local street (not just here, but in India). There are three floors of rooms, although the ground floor room is rarely used. The stairways are steep, but have sturdy banisters. The top (third floor American) floor has two rooms, each with attached terraces. I was in Agaashi, which was lovely, and would be perfect for two friends traveling, It has two twin (single) beds (the website mistakenly says both twin and queen size) and a modern bathroom with enclosed shower. No spraying all over the room--hurray! The attached private terrace looks onto the pol's main street. On the other side of the haveli, on the same floor, is a beautiful large suite The Mahajan room. I got to see it when the guests left. It has a king sized bed in a big room, and huge terrace which faces a quieter are of the neighborhood.

The city of Ahmedabad sponsors a daily early morning walk through the old city. However, since i stayed in that area, and had seen the marvelous old buildings and lanes, Yatendra suggested that he guide me on a slightly different tour of the markets, mosque, and cenotaphs area of the city. We arrived early, as the market stalls were being set up, and walked to the huge, nearly 600 yr old Jama Masjid, where I spent time among the columns. On then to the Manek Chowk, a wonderful old square, with a bustling market whose nature changes with different times of the day. There were the usual colors and aromas of bins of spices. We got a dried berry sugar coated snack there which was fantastic. At night this becomes a famed street food market, but Id missed it from lack of energy last night...and also knowing I'd best avoid the tempting street food. Every night in this area, drums beat at an old gate,as they have for 600 years. (This tradition reminded me of the ongoing, not-to-be-missed imho, Ceremony of the Keys at the Tower of London. ) House of MG gives a night walk tour to this area. Nearby are the tombs were Muslim royalty are buried. The queens' tombs are covered with beautiful fabrics.
After a few hours of walking in increasing heat, we took a tuk tuk (say fast three times!)to House of MG for a pit stop and (I hoped) decent iced coffee,. The lobby there is beautiful and quirky, with a mosaic portrait of the original owner. This was the home of two Mangaldas brothers, who later turned it into a hotel. There are pictures everywhere of the large family. The lobby bathroom has a strange drawing of a young woman on the toilet, with the label "Drama Queen." The open air restaurant in front of the hotel is called "The Green House; a waterfall along a glass wall makes it feel fresh. With time, it'd be a lovely place to sit. Service is very slow (by US standards)--learning that the coffee was not fresh brewed from beans, I ordered a lassi. The noise of the main street cannot be muffled. A guest at House of MG will immediately experience "noise immersion" once outside the lobby.
Time to leave Ahmedabad for a long drive to Palitana, with a stop en route at a fantastic archaeological site..to be continued.

And your adventures continue as we are along for the ride. :).

Thanks, Jacketwatch. Say I just got the name! Did you keep your work watch your RN jacket??

Leaving Ahmedabad, first stop was Lothal. Over 4,000 yrs old, it means "City of the Dead." Guide Yatendra told me, "First, we'll see the museum." That idea often makes me yawn, or groan, but this museum was great!!! It was small, with good but not lengthy explanatory signs, and had wonderful exhibits of artifacts from the site's archaaelogical surveys. Lothal was s city and trading port, known for its beads and gems, sent on ships across the water to Africa, and on land to the north. One of the exhibit cases shows a tiny gorilla figurine. I loved imagining one of the traders getting it in Africa to bring home as a toy to his child!! We went outside to see the actual remains of the city, but within minutes, the heat --100F by then --addled my brain and energy to where even a short walk up to the burial mound was exhausting. Although I saw no evidence of it, the site is reportedly not well-maintained. Very sad, because it is fantastic.
Just outside under a tree, there was a table with beautiful polished stone jewelry done by a guy fromnearly village. It was "such a deal" i couldn't resist!

We continued on the excellent highway. Next stop was for fuel, and a meal. There were the usual chain restaurant places you see in rest stops all over the world--this one had Dominos pizza, a restaurant called Gallops (where we ate) and a truly disgusting public toilet. I skipped it for the Cafe Coffee Day toilet . Tip---the loos in this omnipresent chain are better than many public ones. For the price of a cuppa, you even get toilet paper!! Forget the coffee drinks though. They had something called "mango shot" for 29 rupees. Hmmm... could it be like a "jello shot"? In a dry state, this could not be. Nevertheless, intrigued, I bought one, consuming about 1/10th of it. Imagine imitation mango flavor, in a sickly sweet concoction of Dream Whip with dry Cremora Creamer for extra thickening, and you've got the mango shot. I got the taste out of my mouth a bit later with a real masala chai in a little paper cup from a nearby roadside stand!

The other fun part of the rest stop was seeing crowds of local families, out for a Sunday drive and meal. There was something universal and wonderful about it.

Speaking of coffee shops and chai... in Mumbai at trip's end, I noted humongous billboards advertising the latest addition to Indian cuisine: instant masala chai. Just add boiling water to a packet! I've had this in the USA. Oy! Long live big vats of masala milk chai at roadside dhabas!!

You're so descriptive that you make the scenes of Ahmedabad come alive for me! Great that you got to stay in the old section. I looked at some photos and the French Haveli looks inviting. Speaking of photos, you'd better have taken one of the "Drama Queen" or we're all sending you back!

I wonder what the reaction was in Lothal to the gorilla figurine way back then. I like to imagine how people reacted when hearing about exotic animals for the first time from explorers and traders returning home back in ancient times. Some of the art created by people who never even saw the animals, but worked by descriptions, can be pretty humorous.

<i>a restaurant called Gallops</i>...
Hopefully the name doesn't describe the pace at which one will need to visit the loo after eating their food.

Actually not quite. I love watches. Have around 50+ and yes I love jackets too. Almost got another one yesterday at Eddie Bauer but I already have a super great travelers jacket with like a gazillion pockets from LL Bean.

Instant masala,chai? No Way! Better takes time.:).

Yes people and family watching is universal.

I forgot to add that its encouraging to hear from the Italian tourists to hang in there. I forgot about the Berlusconi mess. Sigh.

Calinurse--

Ahmedabad sounds fascinating. You had two days there. Right, or did I get it wrong? Was this sufficient? Do you think you would have been okay on your own just wandering about (here and during the rest of your Gujarat trip)? We typically like to just do some wandering and exploring on our own, and we are not big on hiring guides very often and I read your comments about needing both a driver and a guide.

When you describe the lack of hawkers and people hassling you in Gujarat, it sounds like most of the trips we have taken to India. Perhaps that is because our time (nearly four months total) was not spend in the big attraction places most typical tourists visit; we have not visited Jaipur or the Taj Mahal.

The French couple we met who had not enjoyed Gujarat compared to their other trips we about 60 years old maybe.

ileen--Thanks for the tip that I can get my old India visa put in a new passport. Whether or now we'll go through the hassle and expense of just travel with two passports like Calinurse is another story.

JulieS, wandering on your own is certainly do-able! Do not, however, that you will encounter fewer English-spekaing or understanding local people, which may present challenged. In Bhuj, at the wonderful homestay where I was, I met one couple --Americans (the only other Americans i met on the trip) who'd been traveling around Gujarat for I think 4-5 weeks, taking trains and busses. That said, I did not have the luxury (or frankly, the desire) to be on a trip of that length. Two weeks was both all I had, and all I wanted, for a variety of reasons--which would take a whole separate thread! So for me, having a guide and driver was the best way to maximize limited time.
In Ahmedabad, three nights would have been ideal I suppose, but two was sufficient, especially because staying whereI did was "immediate intense immersion."

Continuing with the trip....somewhere on this day after leaving Ahmedabad, while on the highway, we drove by a large empty field, where workers were spreading out newly dyed saris to dry in the sun. The driver made a u turn so i could get right on the field. The colors were spectacular oranges and reds. I later learned their brilliance was a sign of synthetic rather than natural dyes, but in any case, they were beautiful, almost sparking in contrast to the beige sandy field and industrial surroundings. I took loads of pix, which the young men workers thought quite amusing. They later gladly posed for pix, and asked me to do the same.

The last stop before reaching Palitana was at a huge Jain Temple complex. From a distance, these look like one huge temple, but are actually far more than that, all in the same enclosure. There were busloads of pilgrims/devotees. With all due respect, I find the liberal use of large, real gems (diamonds, rubies, etc) in the statues at these temples off-putting and ostentatious. It "feels" showy rather than spiritual This is how I experienced nearly all the numerous Jain temples I saw during this trip.

Palitana had not been part of my original itinerary, until a traveler friend with a great eye for the unique sent me a web link about Palitana's Shatrunjaya Hill and the nearby heritage homestay called Vijay Vilas. (Note--there are three Vijay Vilas heritage stays in Gujurat --rather confusing.) Intrigued, I asked Tim (tour planner from Indianpanorama) if it was conveniently do-able to make a detour in the planned route. It was! In retrospect, I am so glad for my friend's suggestion, as Palitana town was one of the great highlights of Gujarat!!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palitana_temples

Palitana is the holiest spot in India for Jains. You ascend 3500 steps to the top of a hill (which from a distance, looked more in the "mountain" category). To do this requires a near-dawn start, so that the heat of the day is avoided. I don't think i've yet said that virtually every day of this trip, temps were at or near 100 F...and I do not thrive in this temperature! I also learned of an alternative to walking--being carried. More later, in a following segment, about my decision the next morning.

Meanwhile, we reach Palitana, end up in a wonderful small village of narrow lanes , waving people, and farm animals, so that I could see the "back" entrance to the steps and get a sense of the steps' rise. Then, with a typical rusty old sign pointing the way, we headed down a lovely country road bordered by numerous trees and beautiful farmland, and reached the marvelous Vijay Vilas.
https://www.indianholiday.com/hotels...-palitana.html
Now owned by descendants of the local rajput family, it's more than 100 years old. I had a choice of room, and picked an enormous one in the main house.(There are additional blocks of lovely rooms outside.) Huge bedroom, sitting room, and bathroom, two king sized beds pushed together, and great air conditioning (which, thank heaven, was in every place save one during this trip). The house is filled with antiques, including framed photos of Lord Mountbatten, thanking the original owner for his help with polo! Dinner was excellent --fresh veg from the garden. There is an enormous wrap-around verandah, lovely gardens.The owners are welcoming and down to earth. They've inherited this place from the grandmother and decided to make a go of it as a lodging. India there are old palaces/heritage properties which show their age but retain their charm, and old palaces which are newly and completely remodeled, immaculate and far more costly to stay in. Vijay Vilas is in the former category. Pleasantly knackered after an interesting but long travel day, and still somewhat jet lagged, I decided not to wake super--early in the morning for the climb up 3500 steps.

p.s.JulieS, apologies for typos--above shoud say "Do note"--not "do not." Your question refreshed my memory of mtg the couple who traveled on public transportation. However, they were if i recall right, part of an NGO or textile- oriented business trip, so they had in-country local "connections"along the way. I also met the young Japanese woman mentioned earlier at the Ahmedabad haveli, and later a young English woman, who were traveling on their own--true backpackers, not flash packers, (-: . So yes, it is doable if you have enough time and desire to sort through assorted travel logistics and potential snafus. (Speaking for myself only, traveling solo, and on limited time, that particular part of an India trip is now tedious rather than fun and interesting.) All the above folks asked questions/help of the guide with me.YOu you can, as you know, always find help somewhere!

Test photos:
OK, gang, i have just spend an hour fiddling with mac photos and flickr, and don't know if this will work, but here goes! if it does, the first three pix are at the Adalaj Stepwell; the bride and groom were on the terrace there. The remaining pix are inside, and views from, the first two days French Haveli. Fingers crossed this works, because there are lots more where these came from!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...57677838956563

Part Two Ahmedabad. Still hoping this works--comments added here as my tech confidences increases (-:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...7679327680661/

Gorgeous, amazing pictures. My favorite is the tea tray. You are a colorful, vivid writer as well. Maybe a second career in journalism?

Love the photos, what a great family shot. Keep em coming !

Your photographs are beautiful. So you have a great eye for photos and a great ear for dialogue. Not sure what part of you to credit for your great writing: your mind for the thoughts, your mouth for the words or your fingers for the typing? ;) But really, the photos add a whole other dimension to your trip report, so I'm glad you're posting them. Now I want to see the ones of the colorful saris drying in the field!

Palitana looks amazing! But no one will blame you for demurring to 3500 steps! In the heat! And possibly barefoot, too?

I notice that some of the Wikipedia photos are views of the tops of the temples, from a higher vantage point, highlighting the tops. I wonder if they were taken from a hill above, or from the roof or terrace of a taller adjacent building?

I agree your pictures are wonderful. They seem like something done by a pro!

When was that Jain temple with the real gems built? This was common to use real gems in temples and palaces hundreds of years ago. I remember seeing some of the wives houses in Agra Fort or Fatehpur Sikri and the walls were basically full of pits from where the gems used to be. The largest house was for his favorite wife BTW at least so we were told. :S-.

Wow! I never even heard of Palitana so to see how holy it is and has hundreds of temples is an amazing fact. And I hope you did not walk 3500 stairs!! And if so how did you get down. :D.

In the first pic is that you with the wedding couple?

Still following your amazing TR!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...57681182154566

A bit behind the written narrative. Apologies. These were taken the day I left, and include the morning market set-up, the Jama Masjid Mosque, and the tomb of Sultan Ahmed which includes him, his son, and grandson.
Huge thanks for everyone's encouragement and interest--especially as I just spent an hour recalling how on earth to get these on an album in Flickr!! Grrrr!! More specific answers to comments later. Again, many thank yous.

Well, I am now ready to return to India! But, not when it is 100 degrees.

Love, love, love the photos, CaliNurse! And am looking forward to reading your trip report as soon as I have time to relax (off to Rome tonight for a short break!).

You were touring in 100F heat? You have my sympathy and congratulations - definitely a trip for an AC car and driver.

WRT the jewels at Palitana. Presumably the same thinking as that behind all the gold leaf on the Buddha statues in SEA. Or the decidedly ostentatious medieval cathedrals in Europe (they're impressive now, imagine them in the 13th century). When I first saw the gold leaf my thought was that the money would be better spent on better housing, but it's not my decision.

@ JulieS and Thursdaysd, indeed, in my pre-trip posts above, I was concerned with the forecast temperatures. Was pleasantly surprised that even 100F didnt feel that bad, most day , ...IFlimited the time in it. It became a game, with me guessing the temp, and Yatendra checking his smartphone to see what it actually was. I guessed 100 in Lothal--it was in fact 98.6, and rising! Still, itwas nothing like the draining misery of heat plus humidity experienced in Vietnam in late September 2015. At end of this trip, the temperture got to me in Mumbai, because of its combination with humidity. Julie, I recall your TR, when you were so hot you could hardly move from the beach at Kannur. I had a few moments like that later in this trip.

@ rje, lol Gallops restaurant!! I ate lightly there and was ok! Sari pix upcoming.

@ jacketwatch, the name of that Jain Temple is Ayodhyapuram Temple. IF I recall correctly, it is not old, but recent.. built y2K.
http://www.templeadvisor.com/temples...am-jain-temple
Not me in the wedding photo--although if the beaming grandma had been in the photos, you'd have seen someone my age!!

@progol, enjoy Rome!!!!!

@all...continued thanks for the interest and comments. It being my first tr in a decade, I need the feedback!!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...57678954830202

A few more pix: saris drying, weird bathroom drawing at house of MG.

More later

The sound of gentle chopping awakened me. The owner's wife was preparing garden veggies for the day's meals. After a masala omelet (including some of those veggies) toast and black tea with lemon and honey, i had a stroll 'round the property. There are loads of birds there, including peacocks, and a variety of buildings, including a small Hindu temple, in addition to the main residence. This place and its countryside surroundings are so peaceful! Had I chosen the itinerary differently, I"d have spent two nights here...with adequate time for rest after an early ascent up to the mountaintop. This is what other guests did, leaving after a 6 am breakfast.

As we left Vijay Vilas, Yatendra warned me, "Madam, when we approach the steps leafing to the temples, you will see many men waving sticks. Please, do not be afraid. They want your business. There are hundreds of them, trying to get you to take their dholi up the hill. Do not open the door or get out of the car until I guide you."

We approached the steps in the Innova. Suddenly, an enormous crowd of shouting men appeared, waving sticks--in the form of thick bamboo poles!! Reminiscent of the scene in "Empire of the Sun" when the family attempts the frantic drive thorough Shanghai to get to the pier, or scenes of camera-flashing paparazzi sticking flashing bulb cameras in the face of celebrities, they surrounded the vehicle. Ok, ok... not nearly quite as dramatic, but nevertheless intense. Yatendra opened the door, cleared a path, speaking in Gujurati to, I suspect, tell these guys that we didnt need their service and to leave Madam the hell alone. This was the only time in Gujarat when I had that feeling of running the gauntlet---like what you have in the lane on the way to the Taj Mahal entrance gate. But this is different--pure business. No smiling pretense at "Namaste, you buy?" Everywhere I heard, "Dholi, dholi!! 600 rupees, 500 steps!!!! 500 rupees, 300 steps!" etc. There are 2000 dholi carriers in Palitana, and the season is winding down. So there is urgency to their shouted offers. Here's a youtube--although the day I was there, there were far fewer pilgrims.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dgW4NwO7wc

Yatendra showed me 'round some of the lower level Jain temples. Then I wanted to walk up a bit on my own. Again, I am accompanied by "the mend with sticks" but by a smaller group, calling out the number of steps and the price for that. Yatendra told me what happens: you are carried up part way, then set on the ground...unless you pay more for additional steps, whether up or down. By the time you've finished paying in increments, it is no bargain,. It;s better and much, much calmer, to have it prearranged. $90 for up and down, a total of 7,000 steps.

I walked up to Step 300 (steps are marked at intervals). That was less than 10% of the way up! The higher I went, the fewer dholi carriers were there. When they insisted, ignoring "Na!" they were shooed away by Jain devotees. A few times I went into a crazy old lady routine, which worked like magic. Really, the entire experience was great fun, once used to it.

When first hearing about being carried up, I imagined one of those big palanquins, me royally peaking out from curtains. Ha! the reality is much more mundane. Picture a folding lawn chair with plastic woven braided seat, on four big poles.
Even with this, and the growing heat, the walk up and down was amazingly peaceful . The steps are lined with trees; there was a lovely if warm breeze, there are hills in the distance, and temples below. Serenity and chaos co-existing: that is Palitana--one of the highlights in an overall fabulous trip.

Last afternoon in Ahmedabad, before heading out of town for Lothal and Palitana. Images lag behind writing:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...57681306327405

I've finally caught up with your report and it is every bit as engaging as I'd hoped. Looking forward to more.

Thats a strange BR picture all right!

"Serenity and chaos co-existing" This is India too. :).

"Yatendra told me what happens: you are carried up part way, then set on the ground...unless you pay more for additional steps, whether up or down. By the time you've finished paying in increments, it is no bargain."

This pay as you go system reminds me of the hospitals there. My Indian nieces dad was admitted some yrs. ago for a GI bleed. Day to day they make sure you are paid up. This the way it is. But thats another story. :).

Again great pictures. Being in those chairs looks bad enough. Quite bumpy so walking, no way! :).

Jacketwatch, I hope they don't interrupt during surgery, threatening to stop pending payment due!
Kathie, thank you!! Glad you're enjoying.

Correction: Searching through photos' order, I realized the saris in the field were a couple days later, near Jetpur city, which is indeed known for fabric dyeing.

Here are two more sets of pix. The first is from the archaeological site at Lothal and along the Ahmedabad-Palitana Highway--there are comments under the photos. The next group are all at the marvelous heritage Vijay Vilas Palace in Palitana (not to be confused with Vijay Vilas on the Arabian seacoast at Mandvi, visited later in the trip).

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...57681347802635

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...57677875314554

Your photographs are worth a 1000 words!
Great shots and amazing description in your writing.Enjoying very much.
Would love to know what wonderful shopping you enjoyed.Did you buy any necklaces from the photographed necklace seller.
Thanks for sharing.

I'm enjoying this very much CaliNurse, your descriptions and photos take me right back there, even though I've never been "there" ie Gujarat.
Quick question about Flickr, is there a way to upload only select photos ? It keeps wanting to upload my entire photo library, over 5000 shots and will take forever !

I'm curious about the food served at the heritage places you stayed. On our previous trips we stayed in many different heritage/palace hotels that were a package deal--room and board included in the price. Most places served pretty much a variation on the same theme, and we got sick of those menus. Did you find this to be the case on your trip to Gujarat?

Soem scenes of Palitana and the steps up toward the mountaintop:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...57677911154094

@Sartoric, when you open Flickr... on the Home Page, next to where it says "Flickr" there's a black bar across the top. Click on "You: Then on the drop down menu, click on the last choice, "Organize."
When yo do that, do you see the thumbnail sized "strip" of ll the photos you've taken? If YES, let me know, and i'll tell you what i do from that point. I'm not expert, and flickr drives me NUTS!!! There has to be an easier way,. I don't think I'm doing it correctly, as the links above have other information that doesnt appear on galleries of other Fodorites who've used it.

Yes, that's one of the things about India ---no matter what part you're in, there are evocative colorful reminders of all the other places you've been. That's probable true anywhere, butfor some reason,seems more notable and colorful in India. And no matter who modern it is, there are constant reminders of the old. New glass fronted malls... but just in front, chai wallahs and pakora vendors and sugar cane juicers!!

@ ileen, Thank you! Indeed I bought some of those necklaces, and a few loose polished stones. I can't recall the exact price, but it was truly a deal compared to USA or even in-city India prices. Gujarat is known for its fabric crafts,including natural=dye block printing and Rogan art, and in future "installments" of this, will post photos

@JulieS, there was a lot of variation in the "home cooking"--from delicious and unique at Vijay Vilas and Bhavani Vilas, delicous and varied buffets at Rann Riders (a hotel, not heritage inn), to mediocre and repetitive at OrchardPalace to almost inedible at Shaam e Sarhad. Based on this trip, I'm not a "fan" of Gujarati food, although I had two very good hotel meals (not places I was staying) discovered some interesting "new" dishes :
kadhi, shriakhand, and a sort of grain dish served at breakfast called boha (spelling?)

Poha I think it is. Just saw a package at the Indian grocery store yesterday.
:).

Thanks for trying CaliNurse, my Flickr looks nothing like what you describe, probably because I'm using an iPad. Don't worry, one of these days I'll figure it out.