Fabulous photos Calinurse. keep them coming.India is a riot of colors and the food,I'd risk anything for it.

Gujarat cuisine is unique. Jacketwatch you are right about Poha, its popular breakfast food in Maharastra too.Its flattened/beaten rice soaked and stirred fried with potatoes and onions, seasoned with chillies and curry leaves.Probably the one you saw in the Indian store is the 'instant' version of it,where all one does is pour a measure of boiling hot water into the pre-prepared poha,set it aside and its ready to eat.

Shrikhand on the other hand is sweetish sour hung/strained yoghurt ( dahi) garnished with saffron (kesar) and pista. Mango being the favorite flavor.

Kadhi (curry) in Gujarat(and most of N.India),primarily vegetarian,is mildly spiced dahi and gram (chickpea) flour often served with Phulkas ( thin chappatis) and of course the Dhoklas, made of soaked ground lentils poured into flat casts,steamed,cut into cubes and served with mint chutney.

A Gujarati thali,a standard fare at a neighborhood Patel restaurant would have all the above.

We had poha pretty much as you described for breakfast at a hotel in Ajmer actually. Good stuff!

Before leaving the Palitana segment of this narrative, a cautionary tale for anyone who wants to climb the steps and take photos of the 900 temples.
At one time, you could take photos of temple exteriors, but that's now forbidden. Past a certain point on the climb, all photography is a strictly enforced no-no. Why? According to the guide, someone took photos not just of the exteriors, but also the interiors, then posted them online. Jain authorities found out, and banned any photography at all.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...57679758526960

As in previous albums, I've added brief descriptive notes as "comments."

@Jacketwtch, how's your nearly-spring Chicago weather?? (-: Sorry, tha's hitting below the belt! On the above photo gallery link, perhaps Mrs Jacketwatch can translate the text accompanying the gruesome drawings of life if you smoke and drink!
Yes---poha!!!! that's it!! Here's a good photo and recipe:
http://recipes.timesofindia.com/reci...rs54676741.cms

@Inquest, thank you for food information! I'm very glad you're enjoying pix. Your "riot of colors" describes India perfectly.
I had a Gujarati thali at Hotel Ilark in Bhuj (future photo) --250 rupees(less than $4 USD) for way too much to eat!!!

@Sartoric, please don't give up!! Have you added your photos on the"Photos" app of your iPad? if so, there is a way to get them to Flickr. Hey, this isn't me just being helpful. I've an ulterior motive: wanting to see your images of South India!!!

Actually its my wife who is Indian. I am a Chicago boy so I can't help you with any translation and I doubt my wife can either as she speaks Hindi and I think that text is probably Gujarati. There seems to be big differences:http://www.differencebetween.net/lan...-and-gujarati/

The one about the weird look on the guys face emerging from an egg with a chick on a plate looking at him is, well different. :). Is this trying to say something about not letting life happen because you don't let the egg develop into a living thing?

As for our beloved weather :S- all I can say is we got lucky being in the burbs as this was a lake effect storm so Chicago proper got it as well as the more eastern suburbs. There were two separate accidents during the morning rush hr. inbound on the Kennedy that resulted in 35 car mess up!

Again great pics and I'm still following!!

More great photos, even the advertising hoardings are colourful and stylish in that special indian way.

There's food, kitchen and market photos here CaliNurse, I'll work on Flickr/photos app for the rest...

http://verify.egullet.org/f/a/IrHKu_...5kaWEvRwJ7fRM~

Thank you, Sartorial. Your great photos confirm it; i prefer the food in the South!!
JW, I knew from your postings that your wife is Indian--which is why, above, asked about Mrs. Jacketwatch as possible interpreter. thanks for the link Indeed, I noticed the difference in language, even with little phrases. "How are you?" in Hindi sounds like "Kai say ho?" (right?) but in Gujarati it sounds like "Kem cho?" This is how I started each day, asking the guide and driver "Kem cho?" to which they replied something which rhymed with"pajama" but s "m" (although that is not what's in the online phrasebook).

Great possible interpretation of the chicken and the egg! Like, empathize with the unborn life which will be extinguished if you crack and eat the egg?

More pix, the from Gondal town, where i stayed at Orchard Palace Hotel, and a few from a day trip to the fabulous town of Junagadh!! As previously, see "comments" for brief photo explanations.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...h/33347205331/

Ooops, apologies for that typo due to darned autocorrect. Should be SARTORIC!! Maybe Sartorial fits you!!

OK Cali. I did not know you meant my wife. As you can see its quite different. The language Malyalam ? spoken in the south is completely different too and has like 55 letters in its alphabet.

Auto correct gets me too. Got to be careful. Sometimes tis rather weird if not X-rated.

And what a car!! I searched for caddy and as near as I can figure that is a 1946-47 model based on what I could find. Thats major cool!

Kem Cho would invite a more formal Saru Che(all good), rather formal. While majama (good fun)is in a casual context. Either way your TR is Majama !! More holi please.

Lol Cali. Heavens. The nuances of language. Hopefully Kem Cho didn't culminate in 'pyjama' as a response. It would probably read as-
Q How are you?
A-In pyjamas.

You have me in splits!! ��

Some of my Hindi friends told me this phrase to say when "appropriate." I once used it on a Hindi med resident as she seemed to think over talking is winning. Phonetically of course "day maag karab mut karoe." :S-.

Left her speechless. :D.

JW, well- researched; yes, that's a 1947 Caddy. The small red box behind it , though very hard to read, says "1947." The vehicles --35 i think--are in amazingly great shape. The Maharajah employs a team of mechanics to keep the cars in running order and spiffy appearance. The family has numerous collections, not just the vintage cars at Orchard Palace, but also at the town center's Gondal Palace (future link). http://www.heritagepalacesgondal.com...collection.htm

LOL inquest--"pyjamas" as a response. So true, the subleties of language.

JW (or Mrs JW)--what's the exact interpretation of the phrase to the med resident?

More photos from the fascinating own of Junagadh. I hope they convey some of its appeal: intriguing and attractive intricately beautiful old buildings--many empty-- that have seen better days, but are still standing!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...7681496915905/

It means you talk so much I became dizzy. :D.

The Gondals are known for their collection of cars.Orchard Palace looks a fantastic property. I've stayed at their palace property in Bangalore. Its little known but its fantastic, presently owned by the grandson of Maharaja Bhojrajji of Gondal.

http://www.jayamahalpalace.in/

As history has it,Junagadh were ruled by the Nawabs from 1700s AD till India's independence in 1947. The Nawabs opted for accession to Pakistan. The Indian Government held a referendum and the people asked to be a part of India. This apparently did not go well with the Nawab, who is suppose to have been exiled to Pakistan and settled in Karachi.

jacketwatch,the literal translation would be

Dimaag - Mind/ Brain
Kharaab - Bad / ruin
mut - don't
Karo - do

Figure it out :)

Close enough. :D.

JW, you said this to a medical resident at the hospostal where you worked as RN? No wonder wonder she was speechless!
Inquest, thank you much for the history lesson. The Gondal Royal Family also own the Mumbai Opera House. When others called for it to be torn down, they insisted on restoring it to its former grandeur--with current acoustic updates.
http://www.hindustantimes.com/mumbai...7ry7pQOaL.html
The people of Gondal town hold the current and past family in huge affection and admiration.

Yes. Probably first time in her life. But after that she listened too. :S-.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...h/33454024036/

My only photographic faux-pas (sat least, of which i'm aware) was in Junagadh. See the photos of the family? When the smiling woman posed alone and I started to take her picture, her husband was not amused, and came rushing over to stand by her.
I always asked when wanting to photograph particular people. Yatendra (the side) grew impatient with this, saying most people would not mind, and he would let me know when I should not take photos (temple interiors, certain of the villagers we met later in the trip). But, I continued to ask, usually via sign language and pointing at the camera.
I was amused many times during the trip when spotting people taking my photo!
Yatendra told me amusing/infuriating stories of people ( especially professional photographers) he'd accompanied, offering enormous amounts of money to people (usually the tribal villages) for a photo, and also of rude insensitive pushy people who had not sense of boundaries.

On a trip out of the country right now, but good wifi is enabling me to rejoin your marvelous trip! And as before, your engaging prose is enhanced by your highly evocative photos. I'm happily drinking in the textures, the colors, the patterns that are your India. Now if you can also please figure out a way to include the actual sounds and fragrances and tastes?

@rje, Danyavad. Thank you--particularly because I was and am a huge fan of your last year's India trip report words accompanied by amazing, unique photos. मैं सम्मानित महसूस कर रहा हूँ

Sounds: unfortunately, during some amazing auditory occurrences (a wonderful festival, coming soon in pix) I couldnt figure out the camera's "video" setting. Grrrr!! Even worse than embarrassing typos! But I made a brief, if shakey, film of a morning temple song from the terrace in Danta, toward end of trip. Do you know rje if posted videos "work" on Fodors?

Fragrances: forme, the most typically Indian takes-me-right-back one is the aroma of smoke fires in the morning...despite their addition to the early day haze/air pollution omnipresent in India and other countries.

Below, photos from the trip through the Great Rann salt desert in what is known as the Kutch or Khacch area, into Dhamadka village known for its intricate block print fabrics, and on to the city of Bhuj.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...h/32700649803/

This area experienced a horribly devastating earthquake in early 2001. Two minutes of intense shaking killed thousands, injured many thousands more, and destroyed towns for miles around. Anyone recall hearing of it? I didn't. (How insulated we are!)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2001_Gujarat_earthquake

Here's an article about the ajarakh style of block writing. The dyes I saw in the workshop were naturally derived--the family gave very interesting explanations of the sources and mixing of the colors, which are relatively subdued. Very brightly colored fabrics are synthetic dyes.

http://travelsintextiles.com/the-pro...tri-ajrakhpur/

We have similar tastes CaliNurse. I dropped some substantial dough on an Ajarakh block printed shawl at Fabindia in Varanasi. It's silk with wool backing and in muted blues and greens.

I don't specifically recall the Gujarat earthquake, there's too many natural disasters. I do recall when we were in India in 2012 there was a TV campaign selling the tourist delights of the region. It was replayed so many times I can still recall the main actor and scenery.

As usual, your photos are superb. Thanks for writing !

Sartoric, don't remind me--I'm still paying for this trip after dropping substantial dough." (-: Purchasing the beautiful hand made items directly from the artisans was still a lot more than I'd expected. And many are "fixed price." The difference from buying in a shop, vs their homes, was having the opportunity to appreciate the incredible time and effort involved in the creation printed fabrics, painted fabrics, woven fabrics, embroideries, so that paying for them was, for lack of a better word, much more meaningful and easier to do...even while I was having second thoughts after converting the rupees into USD! Still, the things I bought have a huge meaning, as they are tied up with memories of the people i bought from.
Anyway, i'll bet your shawl is, beautiful unique, and was worth every rupee!!! Interesting you found it at Fabindia, as the guide told me many of the natural dyed block print fabrics are available at nation-wide stores like Fabindia and Anokhi.

You must've seen the ads starring actor Amitabh Bacchan, who apparently refused to be paid for them. I saw some of these via youtube before going. one of the most intriguing was about a town called Siddhpur, which we stopped at. But what interested me in the ad---a temple where people ay homage and pray to their mothers' spirits--in not open to tourists! The city had other charms , such as a neighborhood of old deserted havelis. My photos of them are in an upcoming flickr album, but meanwhile, here's a sneak preview.

https://sudhagee.com/2015/03/06/trav...ds-of-sidhpur/

Back to the trip. After driving through the desert area, we reached Bhuj. This entire area gets its water via irrigation pipes--in fact, as you enter the town, there's a wonderful pipe sculpture with a recycled water fountain, seemingly floating in air. The town itself, as stated above, had large areas destroyed in the 2001 earthquake. there are entire rebuilt new villages around it. Some of the old parts remain, and are fascinating intuit decaying way. There is a fantastic old courtyard with two palaces, one from the 1700s, one from the 1800s, in entirely different architectural styles. Although one is open, Yatendra said he advises clients (including me) not to enter--they are still structurally unsound enough to make him cautious, despite being officially opened to the public. On one building,there are huge cracks all along the tower walls. One look at those, and I didnt argue!

A big arched gate leads from the place compound to the Bhuj market, with colorful crowds, shopping and wandering through the narrow streets. In hot weather, it's quiet in midday, but comes alive in the evening. Again, as at Junagadh, I thought of Chaucer's Canterbury pilgrims, riding through the arched gate! There 's also a market around Hamirsar Lake, which i saw in the day but not at night. Bhuj House, the lodging for two days in the town, was an oasis of relaxed quiet atmosphere, so welcome after a hot, busy day that I didnt want to leave again once settled in for the evening.

Bhuj House is a wonderful inn/homestay--a 150 yr old home which has been lovingly updated to modern standards (great bathroom!!!!) while keeping the feel of family and local history alive. It's one of the best places I've ever had the good fortune to stay in while in India--so much that should l ever again be in Mumbai, I'd take the local flight from there to Bhuj just to return to this place!

http://www.outlookindia.com/outlookt...-past-perfect/

Ok 'nuff words for now. Here are images of a warm evening walk in Bhuj:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...57681622064235

Next: a daytrip to the Arabian Sea beachside town of Mandvi. For days after visiting, I hummed "Wooden ships on the water, very free" (Crosby Stills Nash and Jerffeson Airplane, for those of my generation!). After seeing these photos, you'll understand why.

Descriptions are below pix. Feel free to comment and/or ask for elaboration, if explantations are inadequate.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...57681561919756

CalinNurse, we are just back from a short trip to Rome, so have not had time to read much of your wonderful TR yet, but I've been loving the photos that I've seen so far! You capture the sense of "amazing India" so well!

I look forward to having more time to fully absorb myself in your words and photos.

As Inquest said above--India is a riot of colors!! While it's an every day/every minute occurrence, at festival time it seems there's even more color than usual. I was in Gujarat during the Mahashivaratri Festival. My guide said it 's sometimes celebrated with a marijuana-infused drink, sipped all night, but at the three different celebrations I saw, that wasnt evident.

Mahashivaratri is a Hindu all-night festival honoring Shiva. The photos below, at Bhuj's Swaminarayan Temple, are the first of three very different events I saw. This is Bhuj's Swaminarayan Temple celebration. What a production!:Bollywood meets Bhuj!! A TV team filmed the dancing and music.( A few days later, I saw the broadcast on a village home's television.)
Troupes of dancers and musicians appeared in the temple courtyard and proceeded into a huge, brightly illuminated and colorfully decorated tent, revving up the already excited crowd of devotees watching huge screens of leaders and priests. The setting, the pulsating atmosphere, the "real time" personalities, reminded me of televangelists' revival meetings--or political rallies. The energy was phenomenal.

The crowds outside the temple grew larger and larger, and by the time we left, streets were packed, with numerous police directing traffic. A sign pointed to "The Biting Spot." What?? I imagined a holding area for misbehaving children (or adults), but Yatendra laughingly explained, "It's just a place where you can get something to eat." Oh, the oddity of the same language in different countries!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...h/33453329761/

How cool that you saw. smelt, felt that festival...
Lucky you, gorgeous photos too !

Loving the photos! How exciting to see this -- and to see 3 different ones? Wow!

The photos are great -- the colors are so vibrant! I love the magenta, blue and gold combination of one set of costumes, and the orange and yellow-gold of another! I can *almost* hear and smell the festival while looking at your photos. You were so lucky to get that!

"A sign pointed to "The Biting Spot." What?? I imagined a holding area for misbehaving children (or adults), but Yatendra laughingly explained, "It's just a place where you can get something to eat." "

Love those types of signs -- I used to "collect" these funny signs; I remember once seeing a menu with "pancakes muchroom" and I wondered, "does it leave you empty when you're done?"

@Sartoric, the first photo in the Flickr album below is in honor of your Tamil Nadu ATM experiences in the early days of "demonetization." I thought, "A-ha! So finally I understand what others experienced! " But it turned out to be a three months old sign. I asked Yatendra why, if it didnt apply, it was still there. Stupid question. "Well Madam, because no one has bothered to remove it!"

@Progol, so glad you are loving these! I'm havIng a difficult time editing--even though I know what to expect, having taken them, the colors are still "mind-blowing." Lol,signs!! The much room pancake! I also liked the ones in the "Mandvi" album, from the Vijay Vilas Palace. "Environ mentally friendly." Like, you have to really think about it! On a p last trip, a menu item in Coimbatore: "Tit bits." One of the family at Bhuj House had recently seen a hill station honeymoon-oriented inn, called "Come Fart Hotel."

Remaining photos were taken at two celebrations that day. The first was a small procession in a residential area of Bhuj. We were there in search of artisan famed for his bandhani tie-and-dye creations. (More about this in a future post/picture "gallery.") Earlier in the day, from the homestay, I'd heard drumming and singing. This sounded like the same group, as they travailed through the town.
Additional photos are at Drang (or Dhrang?) village in the dry dusty boondocks. Yatendra learned of that celebration via local acquaintances. (He seemed to know people everywhere with all sorts of interesting info --the result of guiding exclusively in Gujarat for nine years.) This celebration, near the entrance to the local Shiva temple, was like a huge county fair attracting hundreds of people from outlying villages. The women's dress is typical of the local tribe.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...h/33461969592/

Loving your mix of descriptions and photos. Those celebrations so joyous, exuberant, vibrant! And the light, oh that India light!

As much as Bhuj calls to me, I've been reading about the high likelihood of more devastating earthquakes, and that gives me pause. I know, I know ... bad things can happen anywhere, and the odds are very small of being there at the exact moment that the tectonic plates shift again. Much more dangerous for full-time residents.

But maps like this do seem a bit alarming for the future prospects of that part of India.
http://www.indiaspend.com/wp-content...map_en_620.jpg
It puts Bhuj right in one of the highest risk areas in India, a country with many cities with a high risk of major earthquakes.

Here's the story that came with the map, but I've seen a number of them:
http://www.indiaspend.com/cover-stor...ic-zones-17989

So, very happy you were able to enjoy that wonderful region safely!

Gee, thanks A LOT , rje!! I live in the SF Bay Area, almost literally on top of a major fault line!!!

Jacketwatch, if you're still following.. when visiting my former place of work yesterday, I thought of your Hindi comment to the MD at your job. Wish I'd have known that one a few yrs ago!

Just downloaded my last 600 photos from the Gujuat trip. there are some interesting ones of villages, including he "bootlegger" one. Leaving for brief mini trip to USVI tomorrow, but will continue this thread after returning. One thing's for sure...the Caribbean's lots more relaxing than(most of) India.

Yes I am following, great TR.

I know a sililar meaning Tagalog phrase too taught to me by my Filipino gals too. :D.

Have a great time in USVI, it sounds so exotic and far away to me !

@ JW, lol the "huge grin" emoji on your post! I'm guessing the expression is quite, ahem.."earthy"...as only Tagolog can be!! Please save the exact wording for a possible one-of-these-days gtg in Chicago or SF area.

Speaking of jokes, one of the funnier moments on this trip was when Yatendra (the excellent Ahmedabad-based guide) translated from a joke, the punchline of which is "Today I would have been released." Ring any bells, y'all?

Sartoric, the US "Virgin" I'm going to is St John--to its quieter, more 'country' village Coral Bay. Beaches are stunning; the island is relatively (compared to neighboring St Thomas USVI) unspoilt and uncomercialized, especially on the East side. Getting there from California takes two planes, a local taxi-van, and a ferry. Distance and direction-wise, it's kind of like you flying from Brisbane to Tahiti.

Actually it is not earthy but is rather sarcastic, as if to "whatever" with and :S-.

Sarcasm works--and is necessary!!-- for inpatient hospital RNs!! (-:

The last photos of the first "memory card: are below.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142254...57678690418443

These are all at a place called Shaam e Sarhad. By end of the two night stay, I called it "Shame Is So-bad." thesis the place that, had it been available, would have driven me to drink. The village's name is Hodka...rhymes with vodka!! Will write more a bit later to describe these few photos, but suffice it to say for now, the place looked lots better than it actually was!

CaliNurse,
I'm gradually finishing your trip report and am so thoroughly loving it that you're definitely tempting me with adding Gujarat to the many places I'd like to visit, rje's earthquake warning, notwithstanding (and that last word, 'notwithstanding', has multiple meanings here!).

Your descriptions are so vivid that you 'ALMOST' don't need any photos - but with your wonderful photos, your trip comes very much alive and I feel like I'm there.

Thank you for taking the time to post this!

By the way, the photos of "Shame Is So-bad" (!) don't look nearly as bad as you suggest -- just very, very empty, which is probably a clear sign!

I continue to marvel at your TR and love your pics. The ones at the Mahashivarati festival were especially colorful. Thanks for taking the time to assemble this TR.

As for "Sarcasm works--and is necessary!!-- for inpatient hospital RNs!" There is truth to that but times have changed a lot too. There was over my 24+ yrs. at the U of I in Chicago a high level of professionalism and mutual respect and our CVICU always ranked #1 in the system from our surveys. Our residents, attendings and fellows were very good. We got on very well actually but I think at academic institutions its just better in this regard. However there are always a few. Your learn to deal with them. Ha Ha. :S-.

Still following!

@ Progol,, thank you! Glad you ,as a past visitor to india, are enjoying. I hope it brings back lots of vivid and good memories, as well as providing ideas for future visits.
Indeed, that desert "resort" looks ok. And physically, it wasmostl bearable (although i didnt take photos of the bathroom drain--yuck!) . The thick walls make those mud huts surprisingly cool in 105 degree heat. It was the staff and food that were appalling. Will leave you with that thought 'til I resume the report next week.. Haha the "notwithstanding" double entendre !! Good one!!

@Jacvketwatch, Thank you! This means a lot, as you (via sharing India's life/culture knowledge with your "other half" and travels with her) are very familiar with India, and so, I think, appreciate the "feel" I tried to capture in photos. धन्यवाद !!
I've heard pf the fantastic UIC hospital! Part of the history of "Circle"--right? We'll have to meet up some day and share battle stories.

Will resume photos and report in a week, after r & r on St John.
Appreciative and glad for for all encouragement!!!