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Bangkok, here I come... AGAIN!
I'm on my way to BKK right now. This is trip #20, since my first time in BKK during the summer of 2001. Guess I really like the place, eh?
LAX Red Carpet Club is my current location. I don't usually fly this route, because I start at ORD. My usual route is ORD to NRT to BKK. But I got a cheaper ticket by routing thru LAX this time. It's taking me about 4 hours longer to get to BKK... ugh... but I'm in biz class in the upper deck from LAX all the way to BKK, so that's not so bad. And I was in first class from ORD to LAX. I've got a new crossword puzzle book, and a new sudoku book, plus the IVOD movies might be worth watching. And then, of course, there's SLEEP, which I always PLAN to do, but sometimes my plans don't work out quite so well. I'm heading back to my favorite "home away from home" once again, at the Adelphi Suites on Suk soi 8. I am booked there for 13 nights, but if things heat up in BKK (red shirts that is) I will get out of town and head to Chiang Mai or Phuket or Samui for a few days. No problem. DS and a few of his friends, plus Maeng, will also get away with me. I plan to do lots of shopping, once again. I hope I can get to Chatuchak, maybe Suan Lum Night Bazaar... have not been there in several years... plus Pahurat, Platinum, Pratunam, and maybe China Town. Ken, don't forget about Quiz Night on Thursday at the Pickled Liver. Any other fodorites who might be in BKK and would like to help out "our" team, please join us! We do have a great time at the PL. The big birthday bash is this Friday night at Tawandang. The list of people attending is growning! Anyone else? Michaelbkk, hanuman? I would need to know at least a day or two ahead, as we will need to make a reservation for our large group on a Friday night. The food is excellent, the beer is cold and really tastes great after being in the BKK heat, and the show on the stage is always worth viewing. DS's birthday... I won't say how many years because that ages ME!!! haha Anyway, come on along with me to BKK. I welcome your comments, your questions, your suggestions, and your time reading my ramblings. Carol |
...that should be "The list of attendees if GROWING..."
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Have a great trip Carol, and stay safe... I am counting the days until I go in July, who knows I might meet you there again???
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Let us know about the red coats...I guess I mean red shirts (It is patriots day here and we just had the red coats in Lexington)..Stay safe
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Have a wonderful time, Carol. I am again looking forward to your live reports!
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For kerouac: I'm not sure Carol has even been to the Grand Palace yet (well, maybe she really has...) We all have our priorities.
Carol, enjoy your time in Thailand wherever you might have to go to cope with the current unrest - I know you will be just fine but stay safe none-the-less. Looking forward to your (always) frequent updates... |
Have a safe trip over Carol. Will try to be there at Brad's birthday bash and will confirm a day before. Bangkok is tense, especially the area where you normally like to go to so just avoid the crowds and should be OK.
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Have a wonderful time - I am headed also to Bangkok next week through LA also.
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have fun and let us know how brad and ken together solve the bkk crisis that hanuman has been unable to resolve thus far...
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I'm in Tokyo at the Red Carpet Club. I have to say, I can highly recommend the showers here! In all my trips via NRT (and many of them with time spent in the RCC) I never tried the showers. Never really KNEW about the showers until fairly recently. Well... it's a joy. It's refreshing. It's a nice break after that lang haul coming from the US, and especially when you go the long way, via LAX.
Craig, I saw the GP on my 11th and 13th trips to BKK (smile). Evelyne, you just might see me here in July. I'm not sure yet when I'll be coming over this summer, but for sure, I'll make a trip in July or Aug or Sept. Kerouac, thanks for that link. Interesting. I loved the first couple of paragraphs. It really sums up my feelings about BKK as well. And yes, there is lots more than shopping. I know that everyone thinks that shopping occupies the biggest share of my time, but that's not really true. I spend lots of time just visiting with friends over a cold beer or glass of wine, or maybe a salad or pizza. There are so many great places to just sit and hang out! And when it's so hot in BKK (April is the hottest month, you know) then AC is needed. And often! I really never understood the idea of hotel rooms without windows! I can't imagine! But DS is staying at one right now! He's at On 8. Not my sort of choice, I can tell you. I need to look outside. I need to see the sunshine and the thunderstorms and the rain as it approaches the city! I need visual proof that 3:00 on the clock is daylight or nighttime! Give me a large picture window. Sunshinememphis... if we are in BKK at the same time, we could maybe meet up somewhere. Stay tuned to this thread, as I will be posting everyday. There's a chance I'll slip out of the city for a few days in Chiang Mai or Samui. Don't know yet. Hanuman, would love it if you could make it to the birthday bash. Please invite Dang and your daughter to come along as well. I promise you a fun group of people. Thais, Danish, expats, Americans, tourists, military, etc! You already know Maeng and Ken and Brad (and me, of course) and MichaelBKK if he is coming. Michael? Are you in BKK right now? And I think you met our Danish friend who designs/sells barware and dinnerware. I promise to stay safe. I will avoid the red shirts, even at the expense of my shopping! I don't plan to get myself into any troublesome spots. And I'll check in everyday to let you know what I've seen!! Carol |
Eat some sashimi at Narita for me Carol! I like chu torro with some cold sake to wash it down....
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I took a shower at Narita on our first trip. It really reinvigorated me. Of course, I was not in Biz class, so I had to use the facilities for us deadbeats. It was still wonderful, even though I had to wash my own back.
I'm sure Carol will be careful and avoid any problem areas. I's also sure she will provide on the ground reports of the goings on. What color tops will you wear? |
This trouble makes one think a bit about the colores in your travel wardrobe...Red shirts/blouses might end you up on the wrong side of some barricade. Neutral earth tones the way to go!
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Hi Carol,
Hoping the rest of your travels go well and that you manage to calm things down once you arrive, perhaps wearing a red and yellow patterned shirt! You may recall that we almost met up in Bangkok Jan of 2008 but my dh picked up the nasty norovirus that attacked me on the flight over and I wasn't quite sure how to get to the PL on my own. I have to say that that flight over was THE WORST I've ever had and spent several hours in the loo at 35,000 ft after splurging on Bz tickets. UGH We'll be looking forward to your reports from the ground and I'm fondly anticipating arriving at Bob's fav place the Riverside Marriott and Spa Jan 2011. Sue |
Come on Carol ,it is time to get out of bed and give us your first impressions. Like everyone else I am distressed at what is happening in Bangkok . Having been to my second home even more times than you { who is counting !} the situation there has concerned me very much. I unfortunately stay right in the middle of Ratchaprasong as most of the business I do is around my hotel.With all places closed around me I have been waiting, reading and speaking to friends on a daily basis and have been kept well up to date. They all tell me this time nothing will be resolved quickly, be very careful about where I am going and perhaps go elsewhere as many hotels have now closed also,including mine. Have stayed at all the usual places down by the river, all very fine but this time I may just leave and go to Chang Mai, although I see grenades were thrown into two branches of the Bangkok Bank there last nite. No one hurt.
Indonesia [ Sanur and Ubud ] are calling and I am thinking of going there first and see how Bangkok develops. Have been to Bangkok during periods of military coups,bloodshed and violence and seen enough.Many of my Thai friends have no work and are worried. Hanuman I feel for you and hope you and your family are safe, Carol, do be careful if you are out and about away from your " home " away from home. |
Hi Carol -
I leave for Bangkok on the 28th of April thru May 5th on business. I honestly am not sure if I will have time. I have meetings in the morning of the 1st and then heading to the GP & Wat Pho with my vendor. Sunday I am looking at an all day tour. I am debating on doing the floating market, Thai show and shopping or Death Railway, Bridge on the River Kwai, etc..... I will let you know. |
Sawasdee kah, everyone. It's 9:10am in BKK. I've had my breakfast and am just sitting in my AC for now, posting here on fodors.
I arrived last night at 11pm. By 11:30 I was sitting in a taxi, ready to head into Sukhumvit. I think I had the slowest taxi driver in BKK!! I kept wanting to say, speed it up a bit! Anyway, made it into the Adelphi without problems. Got checked in, dropped my bags, and headed to the Pickled Liver. DS was there, waiting for me to arrive. Maeng was happy to see me, as I was happy to see her again. On my flight(s) from the US, I watched an episode of "Cheers" and I thought to myself, the PL is a bit like Cheers bar. Everyone knows your name, everyone is friendly. Everyone is happy to see you when you come back again. Maeng fixed a plate of garlic shrimp... I think it was even better than I remembered! That, plus a couple of small cold beers, helped me chill out (in this heat) and unwind. I have to tell you a true story that DS told me last night. DS has yet another BKK newbie with him here this time, but the friend is only here for about one week. They have been to the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, etc. They went by BTS to MBK yesterday late afternoon (dear friend thought it was the greatest place on earth!). The friend saw the sea of red shirt protesters, and wanted to WALK THRU THEM!!! So they did!!! Nothing happened. They were not beaten, they were not kidnapped, nothing happened. Obviously they were the only falongs in that sea of red. One man asked DS, in Thai, "What are you doing here?" and DS answered, in Thai, "We just want to know." In other words, we want to see for ourselves and find out what is happening. They bought red t-shirts as souvenirs. "Been there, done that, bought the t-shirt." DS says, mom if you want to go there, we can do that. I passed on that idea!!! But I wanted to report what DS and his friend did... call them crazy, I guess. Called Ken on the phone this morning. We will meet at PL at about 5:30 and go to dinner "somewhere"... to be determined. Maeng will pick me up at noon and we will venture out to JJ Mall for some retail therapy. JJ Mall is next to Chatuchak, but is open everyday, not just the weekends. I do like this mall alot. Everything is closed from Siam Discovery all the way to Gaysorn Plaza, says DS. I've not been out and about yet, so I cannot confirm that. Maeng also says that red shirts have set up a tent camp in Lumpini Park. I asked about going to Suan Lum Night Bazaar, and Maeng sort of swayed me against it, since the tent camp is right nearby. What color is MY wardrobe? I'm like Maeng. I don't want to be a color. I just want to be ME. I have lots of light weight white tops and light color light weight pants to wear. It's really HOT HOT HOT in BKK, so thin fabric is the best. Bkklover, are you here right now? Your reply makes it sound as if you are in the city. If you want to relocate to a quieter area, move down to Sukhumvit soi 8! Everything is just as usual here. sunshine.. no problem. I understand a packed schedule in BKK. Been there, done that. Now, I just come and chill out and shop. But if you see time in your schedule, let me know! You said you are also flying via LAX. For me, that was an unusual routing, as that is the l-o-n-g way to BKK from ORD. Have a good and safe flight! Looks like we may head to Chiang Mai on Monday to stay for a couple of days, returning to BKK sometime on Wednesday. No tickets yet. We're still just talking about it right now. suehuml, yes, I remember you! Maybe January 2011 will be the right time to meet. I will be in BKK once again for the holidays, I would imagine. I will probably be here until about the second Monday or Tuesday after the new year. I don't have a calendar in front of me right now, and we have no reservations just yet, but if we do what we've now been doing for the last two years, that will be about the time I head back home. BKK is calling me. Time to head out the door. My apartment building will have service work done on the AC system today, so it will be toasty in the apartment most of the day. A good excuse to be out and about, I'd say. I'll check back in later! Carol |
Welcome back Carol.
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Welcome back Carol. It was even hotter here last week, believe it or not. I agree about avoiding Suan Lum, at least for now. Maybe next week...
Does Maeng know about the market behind Thai Airways HQ? That would probably be a good alternative to your favorite Silom market. |
Good to hear from you Carol.
No I am not in Bangkok though hope to be very soon. Will let you know. It is possible I might be in Chiang Mai next week then head down to Bangkok. Will see how things work out. Used to visit the Thai Airways market that MichaelBkk refers to and found it more expensive than other places though the jewellery was often stunning and worth that little bit extra . Have not been there for a few years so cannot tell you what its like these days. It is only small though, similiar size to Secretaries Market in Silom which is close to Chong Nonsi BTS. Am eager to hear about your thoughts re the general mood of the city centre and what you are finding open [ if anything] I believe Central Chidlom is still opening for shorter hours though and of course MBK!! Hope you are managing to stay cool and your AC is working full time again. |
AC is working just fine! Thank goodness. I needed a second shower this afternoon in order to stay awake and to stay fresh enough to meet up with Ken (and other friends and DS) for dinner. We met up at Pickled Liver, and then Maeng joined us for dinner at Via Vai. Too much to eat! I have some pizza for my fridge.
Saw DS's windowless room at On 8 Hotel. It was small but looked quite adequate for about 1500baht per night. I prefer my 1-bedroom apt at Adelphi Suites. I like to spread out a bit. I showed off my digs to Ken and to DS's friend. They were surprised, I think, at how much space I have for just over $100 per night, including breakfast every morning. Maeng came at noon today, with a friend in a car, and we drove out to JJ Mall for some retail therapy. I found some very colorful simple cotton tote bags. They remind me of Jim Thompson prints, but not nearly so expensive. I opted to keep one of these bags for myself, and quickly filled it up before heading to dinner tonight. Nice cotton. Nice lining. Very well made. And COLORFUL! Makes me think of summertime. I will ride the BTS tomorrow, as I want to see the red shirts for myself. The front page of the Nation newspaper shows a rather menacing-looking barrier around the red shirt compound. DS and his friend think it was a little over the top. Bangkok Post has a red shirt photo too, but not nearly so menacing looking. Oh, the printing company office is at a building near Phloenchit BTS station... the building is called Wave Place. Wave Place was vacated today, as the red shirts expanded their territory by a little bit. When DS and friend walked thru the sea of red yesterday, they commented that the red shirts were smiling and talking with them. They indicated that they themselves were not dangerous people. But...... if the military decides to remove them from their compound so that the malls and hotels can open up once again, it's hard to say what will happen. I'm afraid that will light a spark that could become pretty crazy and dangerous. We plan to leave BKK probably on Monday, and go to Chiang Mai for a couple of nights, and then off the Samui for 3 more nights. I need to try to get some (serious) shopping done before Samui!! I think we will be shipping some things from CM again, so I will take all my purchases along with me and send many of them home rather than stuff my usual 3 suitcases full. Tomorrow is quiz night. Michaelbkk, we could use your help! You can tell me more about this shopping suggestion you gave in a previous post here. I'm really tired and jetlagged, but managed to stay up until nearly 10pm. It's time to get some real sleep now. Good night! |
What is happening over there? Reports on MSNBC says that hotels are asking guests to leave. The Four Seasons has closed all restaurants and 2 hotels have asked guests to leave. Gee, this is making me worried at what will happen. I haven't heard anything from my vendors about it. I am at the Oriental so I am hoping that I get to go.
Keep me updated, Kari |
Kari, keep up on what is happening in Bangkok via the various threads about it, Kuranosuke in Bangkok and Bangkok Protest Escalation as well as this one. The hotels right at the demonstration are closing for now. There has not been any disruption in the area of the Oriental.
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I just updated my report about a minor clash that just happened.
Carol, It's no longer the government vs the red-shirts. Now there are several group of people who are fed up with them and are confronting them. Some minor brawls for now but things could heat up. |
Good morning. Bangkok is sunny and hot once again. There is a nice breeze rustling the trees outside my window.
I'm up early, doing a couple of loads of laundry this morning. I want to have plenty of clean duds to take to Chiang Mai and Samui. I've decided to cut my long-ish hair today. I don't really know yet what it will look like. I need to find a picture of a hairdo I like... I just want something "easy"... longer hair takes more time, like it or not. This is Maeng's fault. She has me convinced that I need to do this... haha I'm going to hop on the BTS and ride down to MBK sometime today. That will give me a good look at the red shirt compound which is just below the skytrain track. I want to see for myself, especially after seeing the front page of yesterday's Nation newspaper, as I noted before. Hanuman, I do agree with you that the local people are getting fed up with the red shirts. I feel sorry for the people who used to work at the malls and hotels and office buildings that have had to be closed. Time for breakfast! Carol |
Carol
The restaurant at the place you are staying is superb. |
vinovino... yes, I know. It is really good. I thought about having lunch there today, but then didn't do it. This is the third restaurant to try this location at Adelphi lobby. This is the first one that has had any sort of good business. I'm glad they are successful!
I got my haircut today, and I got face threading once again. I did it back in 2009, in the fall I think. Decided to do it again. An interesting technique for removing facial hair! I had it done at Tub Tim (haircut there too) on soi 8. Local place. 600bt for hair and threading. Can't beat the price. My hair is perky looking again!! It gets kind of draggy when it's longer. I think this will be an easy hairdo to take care of. Time will tell. If I decide I don't like it, I'll blame Maeng... haha. I rode the BTS down to MBK today. I wanted to see the red shirt compound and do some shopping. Didn't buy much (yet). I think I'll pick up more things at Chatuchak on Saturday. The red shirts do not look menacing at all. Why does the media have to post photos that, now that I've seen the area, look more staged than anything! It's like the photographer told the protesters to "look mean" for the camera ... when they really are not! It is just so sad to see this situation unfolding. I honestly think I could have walked thru the compound, just like DS and friend did. I would not have been harmed. What is going on is more like a rock concert, street party, or the like. There are people speaking thru megaphones, people sleeping on blankets and padding, people selling t-shirts and caps and clappers, and there are food vendors. I did not see a sea of red, but then, I did not see the area in front of Central World, where I think the large group has gathered. I wanted to walk along the skybridge walkway that is just under the BTS line, but parts of it appeared to be closed, probably for security purposes. The red shirts are occupying a very small portion of the city, but it just happens to be a vital area. The malls, the hotels, the restaurants, the small shops, they are all suffering because their businesses cannot be open right now. Sad. Wave Place on the corner of Phloenchit/Wireless is open again. I think they must have closed just for the afternoon on the day that the red shirts were expanding their territory. They maybe thought the expansion would make it difficult to do business in this big office building/Home Pro store, so they sent everyone home for their own safety. But the red shirts stopped just before the intersection of Phloenchit and Wireless. Traffic on Wireless is heavy as usual. Once you are beyond the compound, life goes on as normal!! Motorcycle traffic appeared to be making its way along the single traffic lanes between MBK and Paragon Mall, right thru the compound. There were no cars or taxis driving thru that I could see. Thais and tourists alike had cameras in hand, taking photos from the parts of the skybridge that were accessible. Several Thais came up to me and started talking to me. They were not trying to promote any "side" of the issue. They just seemed unhappy with the situation. The Thais, for the most part, do not want to associate with a color. They just want to get on with their lives. It's too bad the red shirts are preventing a lot of people from doing their normal everyday work! It's just sad, sad, sad. I don't know how else to feel about it. I am not taking sides on this whole issue. I just wish everyone would go home and go on with their normal lives. Bangkok is very hot again today. No rain. I think a nice rain shower or thunderstorm might cool things down a bit. We could use a cool down. I'm looking forward quiz night at the P.L. tonight. Fodorite teams don't seem to do too well, but we sure have a great time! We need some fodorites from the UK to help us out. There always seem to be questions about rugby or soccer or British politics. PL is a British-style pub. DS and friend had executive physicals at Bumrungrad today. I'm curious to see how "friend" feels about his phys. He's a doctor! I have to go show Maeng my new haircut. DS doesn't know about it, so he will be surprised! So will DH when I get home (but he asked me about a haircut before I came over, so I think he was hinting that it might be a good idea...). Enjoy your day. Carol |
Carol,
The red-shirts are normal people who are not really out to hurt pedestrian but it's their agenda which is bothering a lot of people. IMO they have no right to "hijack" a commercial area and they this so that they will have international coverage and awareness at the expense of hard working people. What you saw are probably the people that the government are trying to pursuade to go home but the hard core reds, the "guards", are the one manning the strategic barricades and the central stage area outside of Central World. Yes they will smile but if you disagree with their political agenda then they will not be so friendly. The red-shirts that you saw might look like go happy partying people but you have to realise that there are many more who are suffering at their joyful expense. It is estimated that the loss of revenues from the closure of the Rajaprasong district has run into the billions and that up to 20,000 people might be laid off if this is prolonged. At the end of the day you have to realise that the motive for the red-shirt protest is to collapse the country as we know it and bring back a billionaire convicted felon. |
I feel for the Thais that are loosing income that they can't aford to loose. Hunuman you said there is a deadline for they to move?
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Carol, I'm sure you could have walked through the red shirts unharmed. There was no confrontation going on. The instruction to avoid the crowds of protesters isn't because they are "mean" dangerous or bad, but because this is where the confrontations happen.
I posted a while back about a guy who was shot over at KSR during a violent confrontation between the red shirts and the police. Perhaps he'd been to Bangkok before and thought of the Thai people he's encountered and felt it was safe to mingle with the red shirts. When the violence came, of course, it became very unsafe. He was shot in the arm (apparently by one of the red shirts) not because he was targeted in any way but because he was in the way of a bullet. No doubt the news photographers watch for the dramatic to photograph. And the confrontations are what is dramatic. While there is usually a period (however brief) when the crowd becomes restless and there is verbal threat before violence breaks out, there isn't always a lot of warning. As long as you have the red shirts and an opposing force (pro-government demonstrators, army, police) in the same place, the potential for violence is there. That's why the best instruction for safety is to stay away from the demonstrations. |
It has been an interesting evening. Our group of fodorites is safe and sound, and staying in Sukhumvit. We were at the PL tonight for quiz night. The news of the 3 grenades (bombs) going off in Silom came at about 9pm.
Brad and his/our Dr friend (no, not Dr Jack) were in Silom this afternoon taking photographs around the red shirt 'wall' where the military and police were standing guard. Brad was spotted on Thai TV! Pook called him when he saw him. Brad and his Dr friend could sense that something was brewing, and things obviously came to a boil later on this evening. We're planning to stick pretty close to Sukhumvit now, other than traveling down to Tawandang for the birthday bash tomorrow night. Tawandang isn't anywhere near the activity. Sukhumvit is closer to it than Tawandang is. The plan is to go to Chiang mai on Monday. No reservations yet, so not sure if we will stay 2 nights or maybe 3. No Koh Samui as we have other things going on in BKK so we don't want to be gone that long. I ate too much at Maeng's tonight. She fixed a Thai meal for our group. Our Dr friend likes Thai food, so we told him he needed to have the real thing. He really enjoyed it. Maeng is such a great cook. We also had mango and sticky rice! Yum! I'm stuffed!! And then, out came the PL birthday cake for Brad! Chocolate... rich chocolate. I could not eat a whole piece... no way. I shared one small piece with our Dr friend. I am in serious need of sleep now... but I'm rather wound up so it may take a while before sleep comes. I've called home to let DH know that we are safe and sound. He had not heard the news yet. The satellite radio is usually on a work, but he may not have been listening to the news. Anyway, good night all. Carol |
I'm traveling along Carol. All the best for your B.B.B. [Big Birthday Bash] tomorrow. I wish I was there. With the combination of you, Ken and Pook reporting, I almost feel like I am.
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Good morning, dogster. Wish you could be here with us. (I doubt you'd be staying at the Arnoma or Centara right now) I miss my sundae fix at Haagen Dazs at Central World!
I think it will be a quiet day, just putzing around Sukhumvit. It's too hot to try to do too much outside. Planning on a table for about 30 people at Tawandang, arriving anytime from 6:30ish to 7:30 and staying until closing and beyond. The reservation is in DS's name. Our group will leave Suk (PL) at 6pm. Traffic will be an issue. Sunday should be a REALLY quiet day... :) Maybe I'll do lunch at Monsoon today. That's the Adelphi restaurant. Vinovino, I like the caprese salad. What do you recommend? Carol |
Mos Burger.
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You know, I've never tried a Mos Burger, but I hear it's a great burger... but it's another one that's at the now closed Central World! What's a girl to do!
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The soups were all great. Liked my all pasta dish picks so far. Watermelon cooler was a big hit.
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Yum... watermelon cooler sounds fantastic! I've never tried one of theirs. That's a must-do before I go home! I love watermelon... I always fill a small plate of it for b'fast. Vinovino, are you in the neighborhood (soi 8) somewhere?
Hey, dog, I found a Mos Burger at the Central Chidlom Dept store, which is open limited hours. Wow... great ch burger! I love that sauce they use! Now that I know just how good it is, I'm sure I'll be there again sometime. Thanks for the suggestion. bkklover, I found Od's salon!! You were right. It's exactly where you said. And the staff appears to be a lot of the same people from the old location inside the Central Chidlom store. They do have a nice salon now, but I'm not so sure the location is quite as good as before. A lot fewer walk-ins because this isn't a place you would just naturally walk past and then think.. oh I need a shampoo. Anyway, Od is on holiday now so I did not get to say hello. I'll look him up again though, now that I know where he is. Carol |
Next time Carol, try the hot dog combo, a fave of the Hanuman family and the Dog. It was, indeed, during our conversation about said hot dog that I realised that Hanuman was my secret love child, product of an accidental moment with an attractive Thai lady in 1962. Go here for a picture:
http://thedogster.wordpress.com Soon, a new post on fine dining in BKK. |
That's cannibalism...
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