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Memorable, magnificent Morocco!
I spent 3 weeks, as a solo woman, in Morocco in October 2024 – and I couldn’t have had a more delightfully memorable experience in this magnificent country!
In this trip report, I’ll present my itinerary and a few notes about my preprarations. I'll then describe what I liked least, what surprised me most, and what I liked most about my experiences there. Questions are welcome at any time! My itinerary: · Overnight flight from DC to Casablanca; immediate private transfer to El Jadida (1 night) · Bus to Essaouira (2 nights) · Bus to Marrakesh (4 nights) · From Marrakesh, I had a private driver take me through Tizi n’Tichka, Télouet, and the Ounila Valley to just outside Ait Ben Haddou in Tamdaght (1 night) · Through Tizerzit and Foum Zguid to the desert at Erg Chigaga (2 nights) · Through Tamegroute, Kasbah Cheikh Arabi, & the Dras Valley to Tinghir (1 night) · Through the Todra Gorge and Azrou to Meknes (2 nights), with a day trip to Volubilis from Meknes · Train to Fez (4 nights) · Train to Rabat (2 nights) · Train to Casablanca (1 night) · Flight from Casablanca to DC Planning: I used multiple guidebooks to plan this trip. For my purposes, the Moon Guide was most useful, with the Rough Guide coming in second. This trip was my first experience with the Lonely Planet’s new format. I must admit that I’m not enamored of the new organization, but I did find enough useful information to be willing to try another. In comparison to these three, the guidebooks from Eyewitness, Fodor’s, and Insight Guides held fewer unique bits of useful information, IMO. Language: As is my habit, I began Pimsleur’s Arabic lessons a few months before my trip. Unfortunately, life intervened; I discontinued my studies. By the time I reached Morocco, I knew a few essential Arabic pleasantries; no more. And I didn't know any words of any of the Berber languages spoken in Morocco,. IME, quite a few people engaged in the tourism industry in Morocco spoke English, but French is much more common. (How I wished I knew more than a bit of French!) I had booked lodgings where I could expect English to be spoken (and it was), so I can’t say that language was a problem for me – except that I prefer to be able to interact with people to at least some extent, and my opportunities for that were more limited that I’d have liked. I found Morocco visually stunning, so I may post a few too many photos. You can always set your preferences to hide them! As an introduction, I found Morocco to be a land of exquisite Moorish architecture, Here's an example for Meknes's Dar Jamai Museum: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da8386290.jpeg In contrast, there were also once beautiful lanes in great need of attention. For example, here's a view of a street in El Jadida's “Cite Portuguese,” a UNESCO World Heritage Site (WHS). https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b0cef4fc3.jpeg Morocco is a land vibrating with color, like these pomegranates at a market in Essaouira: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...afc98502e.jpeg And also of ruggedly barren mountains, as seen here in the Atlas mountains between Ait Ben Haddou and Tizerzit: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6f8713d6b.jpeg And I found it to be a land of contrasts -- amazing contrasts! Take a look (a close look!) at this view of a market / alley in Marrakesh: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2e629f82b.jpeg And even with so much of a person's life in public view, it seemed to me a country where much is hidden, not unlike the pomegranate seeds shown above. To give just another hint of what I mean by that, here's a door to the Kairaouine Mosque and University in Fez: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...430e49620.jpeg Perhaps that’s given you a sense of what I experienced…. Next up: What I liked least |
Thanks kja. I'm looking forward to your report.
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Yo Kja, great to see that you had a successful trip to Le Maroc. Those shots of el Jadida and the pomegranates are top-shelf.
It was also important for us all to read that comparison of guidebooks. Moon has just released some new editions to various countries. Did you try any Reddit online sources? They can be useful. I'm with TP--time now to read more from your report. I am done. the solo woman in the land of contrasts |
Overall, my experience in Morocco was extremely positive, but I’ll start with the few things that I found less to my liking. Let’s get these (few) things out of the way! This post deals with some regional or national issues.
Evidence of the earthquake that struck the area near Marrakesh in 2023. I don’t mean unsightly rubble (though there was, of course, some of that, if less than I expected) – I mean the evidence of the hardships local people have suffered as a result. As just one example, the once magnificent Kasbah of Telouet was severely damaged in that earthquake. As a result, tourists can only visit the exterior (and many people skip it entirely) and a once-vibrant community supported by tourists is now struggling. Here’s a glimpse of what remains of the Kasbah of Telouet. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8500c350a.jpeg Evidence of drought in parts of Morocco. An area south of Casablanca to Essaouira (and beyond) had been suffering a multi-year drought. Roads were lined by parched fields and dying trees. Even drought-resistant eucalyptus were clearly failing and crops had been badly affected. I took this picture from the bus from El Jadida to Essaouira. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...114d1ae7b.jpeg Evidence of the hardship of life for many Moroccans. For example, a stop at a pottery cooperative in Tamegroute seemed to me to give glimpses into how hard it is to earn a living in parts of this country. I can’t imagine that OSHA would approve of this work site! BTW, the structures with arched entries are kilns. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0826b5190.jpeg Vanishing arts. Morocco is a place with centuries of artistic traditions, and many of these traditions are, to my delight, being maintained. But not all. While in Fez, I took a fascinating half-day tour during which I was introduced to several artisans. (Arranged with Culture Vultures, I highly recommend this tour!) A few of the men I met (yes, they were all men) were, quite literally, the last in Fez – or even in all of Morocco – to practice certain crafts. The last man to adorn saddlery using traditional techniques, the last maker of damascene, the last man to weave brocade without the advantage of a Jacquard loom…. Of course, some of these changes are a mark of progress: the children of several of these artisans, who might have taken over their traditional family endeavors, have gone to college and so have chosen other careers. But conversations with these artisans had a bittersweet quality: Even the proudest of them acknowledged sadness about the impending loss of their traditions. Here's the last weaver of brocade in Morocco, Abdelkader Ouazzani. The masses of knotted strings are what control the placement of the warp threads. One can see why most weavers switched to a Jacquard loom! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...26e7920be.jpeg Next up: Some things that made tourism in Morocco a bit irritating from my perspective…. |
Oops! I missed some text:
@ tripplanner001: I'm glad to know you're reading along! @ zebec: I'm glad you enjoyed those pictures! Do I recall correctly that you have an interest in traditional musical instruments? If so, you might enjoy (or perhaps already did enjoy) the Dar Jamai Museum in Meknes, shown in my first picture. It holds an amazing collection of such instruments and has looping videos of musicians, projected in several side rooms, all in a beautifully restored palace. I have not used Reddits to help plan any of my trips. For that matter, I use almost no online resources other than booking.com or the websites of specific museums or restaurants, etc. What have you found useful about the Reddits? |
Reddit can put a traveler in direct contact with a local culture. So one can get caught up instantly with (municipal) news. In addition, you can always post your queries there for locals to answer. We recently did that with Santa Barbara and got lots of useful info straight from the horse's mouth. I find Reddit's norm of approval-rating to be little more than a junior high school popularity contest, but looking beyond that silliness can say that it ranks as a good new addition to the research tool box.
Thank you for that Meknes musical tip. We were in that town but had to rush through without seeing that museum. I am done. The upcoming irritants |
@ zebec: Thanks for that insight into the value of Reddit for trip planning!
- - Continuing my comments on the things I liked least about traveling in Morocco, I turn to things that were really just mild irritants: Gate closures in ancient cities. In age-old pedestrian city cores (or medinas), such as those of Fez and Marrakesh, some “neighborhood” gates close at certain times, and golly gosh, can you believe that google maps doesn’t always show these closures? So, while I was generally awed by the accuracy of google maps in these labyrinthine areas, I admit that I found it frustrating to come upon a closed gate. (Especially when I ended up at the SAME closed gate again later. Sometimes, again and again. Sigh.) In many cases, teenage boys stood outside these closed gates, ready to guide one to one’s destination. At least one of my guidebooks had warned against relying upon them. I’m not sure if that’s good advice or not, as I was generally able to find my way on my own: After all, roaming the medinas was one of my goals! But I did accept help twice when I had a reservation that didn’t allow a more leisurely meander. In the first case, in Marrakesh, a group of young men quickly guided me to my destination and refused to accept a tip for doing so. In the other case, in Fez, two young men guided me and then berated me, vociferously, for offering what they considered insufficient recompense. Taxis. I found it challenging to learn how to deal with “petit” taxis – the ones that cost less, are shared, and are usually flagged down streetside. As I understood it, one negotiates the price to a particular location before entering. As I was to learn, the driver might decline your request because they have already committed to going a different direction or because you offer too little or whatever. And I always found it hard to know what to offer. I often asked people at restaurants or museums (etc.) what I should expect to pay; I appreciated that input, but wasn’t always able to negotiate a price in the specified range. But hey, the prices were less than the “grand taxi” prices, they weren’t at all unreasonable (actually, quite cheap by DC standards), and really, it was up to me to decide what to pay. Not a bad “problem”! Crowds in Marrakesh. It seems that Marrakesh is now firmly on the path of many tourists, often visiting with tour groups and so worried that they might lose sight of their guide that they will march over anyone or anything that seems in the way. Argh. Yogi Berra’s words come to mind … but I went anyway and was glad I did! This shot, in the Palais de la Bahia, was taken in a rare small gap in the crowds. Yikes! (I blurred the faces in this photo, and others, unless the person was performing or otherwise identifiable.) https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ec439a183.jpeg Wine. I like to have a glass of wine with my meals. and as a break now and again, too. I knew that wine would not be available at all restaurants or hotels in Morocco, particularly in the medinas, and so I had researched my options in advance. As a rule, my research was successful. Nonetheless, it was a challenge that merits mention on this, my “least liked” list. (I found it ironic that Meknes is near one of Morocco’s main wine producing areas, but it was the place where I had the hardest time finding any.) Here’s one example of an enjoyable glass of wine; as was common in Morocco, wine was served with a bit of something tasty. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...10eb03c1d.jpeg That rounds out my list of ‘least liked” aspects of Morocco. Not a long list, IMO, or a list that would suggest skipping a visit to this magnificent country! Next, I’ll turn to some surprises, |
Yikes on the crowds in Marrakesh. I hope you enjoyed parts of the city without crowds. We had the opposite experience as we arrived in Marrakesh in December 2021 when Morocco closed its borders due to the omicron variant; other than some locals, everywhere was quiet and we wouldn't have mind a few more folks, in nothing so everyone was not on us when we walked through the souks.
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@ tripplanner001:
Wow, what an experience you must have had! Marrakesh without crowds … but under COVID restrictions. I hope you were able to take advantage of the upside, while avoiding the worst of the downsides of that time. How long did you have to stay before being able to move on? Did you run into any problems with your lodging or meals? Were museums and palaces (etc.) open? When I was there, parts of Marrakesh seemed a crush of crowds. And I don’t like crowds! Some of the more popular souks were almost unbearable … but it was easy to step into another alley where I was soon roaming fascinating, if less visited, souks. I timed my visit to the Majorelle Garden (described below) to avoid the worst of the tour groups (though it was still crowded), and to my surprise, some glorious places in Marrakesh – like the stunning Dar el Bacha or the impressive Almoravid Koubba – were nearly empty. Next installment later today…. |
I expected glorious Moorish architecture and extraordinary crafts and wonderful food … and I encountered and savored each of these things. But before I comment on those eagerly anticipated delights, let me turn to the things that most surprised me:
The colors! I definitely had not expected such a brilliant palette! The intense blue of the fishing boats in the harbor of Essaouira: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3812e0866.jpeg Striking blues were evident in many locations in Morocco, including Rabat’s medina: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6399ce5ef.jpeg “Majorelle Blue” was inspired by these blues and is contrasted with other bold colors in the glorious Majorelle Garden in Marrakesh. (The name of this particular shade of blue is actually trademarked!) https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1df73df7b.jpeg And then there were the contrasts of deep green foliage against russet and ochre and golden sandstone under a bright blue sky, typical of vistas I encountered through many parts of the Atlas mountains, particularly on the Atlantic side. Stunning! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c1a4d06fc.jpeg There were also amazing fruits and other foods in just about every produce market (like the pomegranates shown above) and glorious blooms in various gardens and peacocks at Chellah and tiny shops entirely devoted to vividly colored spools of thread in Meknes (a center of for traditional Moroccan embroidered linens, which IMO can be quite beautiful) and so many other encounters with vivid, unexpected color. Photos available on request! Next, a few more surprises. |
We began our Moroccan journey in Casablanca and ended in Marrakesh. The country decided to close when we were at the Todra Gorge. While foreigners were not allowed to enter Morocco, they were allowed to leave. We left when planned although because the flight from Casablanca to DC was cancelled, we had to fly to Paris and return home from there. On the ground, there weren't restrictions at all and all the sites were open. Other than locals and other tourists we could count with our fingers, we mostly had the museums and palaces to ourselves. The only place we saw any real gathering of people was at Jemaa al Fna Square. We missed having other tourists to interact with; the atmosphere was most notable in the souks in Marrakesh, especially when compared to what we experienced in Fez just a few days earlier.
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@ tripplanner001: So you were able to see much of what you hoped to see before the limits were imposed? I hope so! But even if that's the case, it’s unfortunate that you weren’t able to experience some places with a more lively atmosphere. I’m not surprised that Jemaa el Fnaa still had gatherings of people – it’s so central to the life of many residents of Marrakesh (as I understand it) that I can’t imagine it would ever be truly abandonded. And as a vast open space, I’m sure it seemed safer than just about anywhere else in the medina. But it must have seemed strange without crowds. Actually, the whole experience must have been rather odd!
- - - Now, for some more surprises: As one of the last photos I posted shows, the landscapes of Morocco were often breathtaking. More generally, I was gob-smacked by the variety and beauty of the natural scenery. In many ways, it makes no sense at all that I consider this diversity a surprise – I had planned my trip to include Atlantic beaches and Atlas mountains and Saharan deserts. Even so, I was not prepared for how magnificent I would find these diverse ecosystems. Here are just a few other examples: The Atlantic, from Essaouira's Skala de la Kasbah: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a08ae9f26.jpeg Another section of the Atlas Mountains, near Tinghir: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e3d033d1.jpeg The desert at sunset: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f7ac064a.jpeg Speaking of the desert, I had no idea of how much it varied from place to place; how much vegetation there was in hidden corners, and most of all, how spectacularly beautiful I found it or the areas near deserts. TOTALLY unexpected! Here's a view from near Ait Ben Haddou: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2e2d29ef2.jpeg Next up: a few more surprises. |
Wow. Absolutely gorgeous photos - that blue!
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The closure of the country to incoming visitors did not impact the attractions. Everything was open but before and after. Definitely unusual in many respects.
I am in total agreement with you on the variety. Of the cities, I most enjoyed Fez, but the varied scenery between Fez and Marrakesh was what wowed me the most - Todra Gorge, Erg Chebbi, Mount Toubkal, Ait Ben Haddou... |
@ Travel-Nerd:
Isn’t that blue glorious? @ tripplanner001:Thanks for praising my photos, but I really can’t take much credit: The combination of an iPhone and gorgeous vistas did most of the work. :) I’m so glad the attractions were open to you! It seems that our routes didn’t fully overlap: I went to Erg Chigaga rather than Erg Chebbi and I missed Mount Toubkal … but we crossed paths enough to know, I think, that we each saw some amazing places, and we each have much more to see should we ever return. Next installment in a bit…. |
A few more things surprised me so much about my experiences in Morocco that they merit mention:
Water in the desert! By complete chance, I came to the desert just after an extremely rare rainfall. (Tragically, a few people died in the initial downpours and associated flooding before I got there.) Lake Iriqui had been dry for about 50 years – literally! But there it was, shimmering and rippling with the breezes. How fortunate I was to see it! People throughout the region were thrilled and awed by it. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...700e2f87e.jpeg Storks! Astoundingly extensive flocks of storks! Countless numbers flew over Meknes at sunset and Chellah didn’t seem to have space for even one more of those immense nests. A sign there indicated that more than 70 nesting white storks who live there most of the year. Who knew? (Not I, obviously.) Here’s a shot of Chellah’s minaret. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5da175283.jpeg Cats! Lots of well-fed, well-cared for cats. I saw them sitting quietly next to all sorts of things I’m sure they would have loved to eat – but I never saw one indulge. And every evening, I saw dishes left out for them. It would seem that the people of Morocco have determined that it’s better to have happy rodent-capturing critters than hungry strays. Here’s one example from the fish market in Essaouira. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c0d00348d.jpeg Next up: What I liked most. |
Unexpected surprises, at least of the memorably wonderful kind, are among the things I enjoy most about travel in general. That said, I plan my trips to ensure that I see and experience things I expect to enjoy, and it is to some of those amazing aspects of this trip that I now turn.
What I liked most: My desire to see Moorish architecture and ornamentation was a driving force behind my decision to make Morocco a priority, and I was not disappointed! Palaces, riads, medersas (aka madrasas ... there are various spellings for Islamic schools), tombs… There were stunning mosaics and stucco work and woodwork and paint, all with exquisite attention to detail. I’ve already shown a photo of Meknes’s Dar Jamai and just a bit of Marrakesh’s Bahia Palace; now I’ll offer just a few more examples. (Oh, it has been hard to choose! I hope I'm not posting too many pictures.) Here's a view of the Ben Yousef Madrasa in Marrakesh: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6a016914f.jpeg And the detail of the ornamentation around its mihrab: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...55cc6ccf3.jpeg Also in Marrakesh, Dar el Bacha was richly ornamented: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...949ed2355.jpeg Here's a door frame from that same palace / museum: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...629c67323.jpeg Ceilings were often magnificent; here’s one in Fe's Palais el Glaoui: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fd2580a3e.jpeg Incredible workmanship was evident even when roaming Fez’s medina – this canopy was over a doorway that wasn’t even marked! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eb0b82ebb.jpeg And in Rabat, the interior of the Mausoleum of Mohammed V – built in a traditional style, but with modern materials -- is IMO utterly, breathtakingly glorious! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fc7dc7d1d.jpeg Next up … more of what I liked most…. |
What I liked most, continued:
While traditional Moorish architecture held sway with my heart, I was delighted by the other architectural styles I encountered in Morocco. In addition to some striking very modern buildings in Rabat, my favorites included: The Almoravid Koubba in Marrakech is IMO a magnificent example of early Almoravid architecture. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af2df6630.jpeg There are also some wonderful examples of Almohad architecture in Marrakech. Here’s a view of the Koutoubia Mosque: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fbb34d1ec.jpeg Any number of cities had districts filled with Art Deco or Art Deco influenced buildings, some quite beautiful. As I understand it, that was often the result of expansion of cities during the time when the French controlled the area, which happened to include the years of Art Deco’s greatest popularity. A fan of Art Deco, I was happy to see them! And Morocco’s Art Deco buildings often include elements of traditional Moorish design, resulting in a style sometimes termed “Mauresque.” Here’s one in Casablanca: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...607b7c981.jpeg Next: What I liked most, continued…. |
I can see that the number of views of this thread consistently increases, day by day. I hope that means that someone, or perhaps several people, are finding value in it. I hope so!
- - - What I liked most, continued: In addition to Islamic-influenced and later buildings, Morocco holds some amazing remnants of ancient civilizations. The Roman city of Volubilis was extensive. Its mosaics (in particular) caught my eye. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5bf2e3d34.jpeg Chellah, in Rabat, mixes Roman ruins with Marinid ones, with gardens and peacocks and the aforementioned storks in delightful abundance. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...25672f8b9.jpeg I found the earthen fortifications built by the Berbers impressive. I’ve already shown an image of the earthquake damaged kasbah at Telouet; here’s an image of a restored one, the Kasbah Ellouze. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...02311090c.jpeg Next up, if I continue … more of what I liked most…. |
Still following along and enjoying.
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@ tripplanner001: Thanks for continuing to read and for letting me know! I hope this TR is bringing back some good memories for you.
- - - What I liked most, continued: Whatever the style of architecture, one of the things I found most fascinating about Morocco was how many structures create spaces that are hidden from public view. Some of the photos I’ve already shared include glimpses of interior courtyards and the rich ornamentation of inner spaces. I came to think of Morocco as a place where much is hidden, and so I got a small geode while in the mountains – its gorgeous, hidden crystals seemed an epitome of Morocco. Riads (traditional homes, generally in medinas and now often offering lodging) are a great example: From the narrow lanes of the medina, all one typically sees is an outer wall, broken only by a strong door – and that outer alleyway might be far from attractive. Once admitted, an entry way leads (sometimes via a long unadorned passageway and/or other foyer-type space) to a courtyard, typically featuring greenery and a fountain and glorious architectural detail; rooms, often on several stories, are arrayed around this courtyard. Many of those I saw were utterly stunning! Here’s a photo of the riad in which I stayed in Fez, the El Yacout. Originally built in 1347, it was restored about 10 years ago. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fa977bd37.jpeg Harems, of course, were hidden from public view, and I found it interesting to see spaces that had once been reserved for them. Women often entered them when quite young, so I couldn’t help wondering what it would be like to know that this space – these few rooms around a courtyard – would probably be one’s home for the rest of one’s life. Although currently in a sad state of disrepair, the Palais El Gloaui in Fez offers one example of a two-storied harem arrayed around a courtyard. Perhaps a bit less sobering was the sunken garden established for the harem at Marrakesh’s Palais Badia; it offered the women a relatively large area where they could roam, unseen. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e597d4564.jpeg As a relevant aside: In the days when women could not be seen in public unless properly robed and escorted, what was she to do when someone came to her door? The solution: A tiny projecting alcove surrounded by carved wood that would allow her to see out without being seen. If she saw someone who she could safely admit, she could drop the keys through a hole in the base of this tiny alcove. There are a few remaining examples in Rabat and Fez, where I saw this one, shown from about where one would stand to be seen. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b5af60b5.jpeg Next up … more of what I liked most…. |
Number of views since I last posted: 238.
Number of comments since I last posted: 0. I guess my report is leaving people speechless! - - - What I liked most, continued: I just mentioned some of Morocco’s hidden gardens, but of course, Morocco has many gardens that are not hidden, and I thoroughly them, not to mention the flowers outside of gardens! The aforementioned Jardin Majorelle in Marrakesh is a gem. I can fully understand why so many people choose to visit it – and truly, MANY tourists flock to this garden. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ec929d80.jpeg The Jardin Jnane Sbil in Fez is, IMO, well worth a visit. This very pleasant green space is just outside Fez’s medina, so there were couples out for a moment together and friends laughing at shared stories and adolescents finding ways to entertain themselves (and each other) and mothers pushing strollers – all adding to the joy of being there. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9bbda1a07.jpeg Another favorite -- the Andalusian Gardens of Rabat. Truly lovely, IMO. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef3100048.jpeg And flowers in various expected and unexpected places, including the desert, where arugula was blooming. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7e126a7d5.jpeg Next up … more of what I liked most…. |
Kja, desert rocket, who knew? I love it when folks include a floral component to their TR.
You've depicted so many beautiful things. Waiting for next... I am done. The Maghreb |
@ zebec: I was surprised by the arugula (rocket), too – there was a LOT of it and it was very tasty --- and apparently, camels love to chomp on it, too. Who knew?
- - - What I liked most, continued:: In addition to public gardens, I found many other public spaces that were a delight to see. Each of the medinas I visited has a least one public square, and each was particularly lively in the evening when people came out to stroll or to visit to one another or to listen to whatever performers were performing or whatever! IIUC, Marrakesh’s Jemaa el-Fnaa (mentioned upthread) is among the world’s largest public squares, if not THE largest. And what a fascinating place it is! There are rows of stalls selling fruit drinks or grilled foods or mint leaves; musicians set up rings of chairs where people can sit to listen; families roam; costumed “water sellers” pose for tourist cameras; youngsters run around their older siblings who are trying to catch a moment with their friends; tourists stroll…. It’s quite a lively place! This lousy shot might give some sense of what it’s like. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...707e91b7c.jpeg On the darker side (and something that really belongs on my “least liked” list), there are still a few snake charmers and monkey handlers in Jemaa el-Fnaa – not many, but a few. The monkeys are generally Barbary macaques -- an endangered species; they cannot be transformed into “pets” without disruption to their lives and their families. (I was glad to see a few wild macaques in the cedar forests near Azrou, though I must wonder if tourism is endangering them, too.) And as I understand it, the mouths of the cobras have generally been sewn shut to prevent them from biting … but that also means that they can’t eat, so they ultimately starve to death. If you go to Marrakesh, I encourage you to avoid engaging with these performers. On a much more positive note: Many public spaces in Morocco feature fountains. Those in the medinas often date from the time when there was no indoor plumbing, and so a local fountain was the main source of water for residents. I was told that a medina neighborhood in Fez had to have five things: a mosque; a school (madrassa); an oven (used for communal cooking of breads and tajines); an hammam (heated by the oven), and a fountain. Some fountains still work and are still used -- including the Nejjarine Fountain in Fez. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f3fe87d48.jpeg Of course, not all Moroccan fountains are in medinas or are for providing water. One of my favorite fountains was in Casablanca, in the Mohammed V Square. Here, couples stole a few discreet moments with one another and children fed pigeons and men dressed in the costumes of traditional water bearers sought business. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4ec7df52a.jpeg Next up … more of what I liked most…. |
What I liked most, continued:
I’ve offered several comments about the medinas I explored in Morocco, but I haven’t said how greatly I enjoyed roaming these mazes of narrow alleys and their souks and markets! (At least when not competing for space with a tour group.) Whether marketing produce or spices or copperware or fish or trotters or whatever ... so much to see and appreciate! And the lanes themselves, if not always beguiling, at least often enticing. At the risk of presenting too many photos: Here’s an image from my first moments in Morocco, a market in El Jadida: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a6e6bb22c.jpeg and some images from Essaouira: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a5a91b38.jpeg and https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6baf5136e.jpeg This one is from Marrakesh: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...46b70486b.jpeg Here’s one from the wonderful covered market et El Hedim Square in Meknes: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6413f18aa.jpeg And here are several from Fez: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bff0ffd68.jpeg and https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af281bbca.jpeg and https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6316e0cda.jpeg and one more, this one from the Al Andalous district: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a31edf87.jpeg Next up … more of what I liked most…. |
Kja, this above foodic imagery is special. The back-to-back shots of Essaouira, and then that seafood mélange, especially catch the eye.
Hope that you plan to matt-and-frame some of these. I am done. the imagery |
@ zebec: Thanks for your kind words about my pictures! I’m fortunate to have seen these things and am glad if you are enjoying them.
- - - What I liked most, continued: Having just written about markets, turning to the delights of Moroccan food seems a logical transition, and ohh! I did eat well in Morocco! And that included a very tasty camel burger at Café Clock in Fez. :) Breakfasts at my riads generally included more sweet items than I might have preferred, but the ridiculously generous servings of breads and fruits and olives and yogurt and other items (sometimes including eggs) were more than enough to satisfy! Here’s a shot of a breakfast at the Riad El Yacout in Fez: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1fa738570.jpeg As I was to learn, ordering a selection of small salads – an option on many menus – didn’t mean getting a plate with a few vegetables: It meant getting anywhere from 5 to 16 amazing little dishes. The spread at Marrakech’s Al Fassia Gueliz was particularly memorable: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c6f433a8.jpeg I enjoyed fresh seafood by the coast, including one of the best octopus dishes I’ve ever tasted, served at La Cle de Voute in Essaouira: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...abc4fa5a3.jpeg And then there were the tagines and tanjias – so flavorful! Here’s one example from the Dar Bab Todra: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3551ba110.jpeg I thoroughly enjoyed a cooking class at Café Clock in Fez (highly recommended!), where – by my choice – I learned to prepare pastilla. I also made a beet salad and traditional soup called harisa, shown here with some local breads. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...154f5061b.jpeg BTW: Several restaurants I patronized in Marrakesh offer a free escort service to accompany one upon return to one’s lodging. I was told that they provide these guides because navigating the maze of alleys can be particularly hard at night, when all the shops and stalls are shut, so they look so different than during the day. I took advantage of that service a few times. Nice! Next up … more of what I liked most…. |
What I liked most, continued:
Several of the restaurants I visited featured musicians, and I was very glad that I saw several Moroccan performing arts during my time in this fascinating country. I enjoyed live music at several places. Among the best: A performance at the Mouassine Music Museum in Marrakesh. Awesome music, awesome venue! But my photos of the event were lousy, so instead, here’s one of a musician playing at the Odette Rooftop Bar. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5ccef1165.jpeg Morocco has a long tradition of storytelling; unfortunately, it is another dying art. The Café Clock in Marrakesh is trying to keep it alive. I thoroughly enjoyed an hour or so being spellbound by a talented young storyteller. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9fc7eb052.jpeg Another traditional performing art: Belly dancing. While in Marrakesh, I dined at La Tanjia, which features belly dancers. Unlike the delightfully memorable performance I saw in Istanbul – which was staged and clearly choreographed – this restaurant has a number of belly dancers who circulate through the tables as they perform. To be honest, I found one of them WAY too interested in getting men to stuff money into her bra. My favorite was a young woman who fully engaged the youngsters among the patrons. She was a skilled belly dancer, and she was such fun to watch, whether fully engaged in her art or whether interacting with members of the audience. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40d4fbdc4.jpeg Next up … more of what I liked most…. |
The number of views keeps going up. I hope that means that someone is finding value in this report!
- - - What I liked most, continued: It seems I’ve brought us back to traditional Moroccan arts, and OMG, the range of Moroccan crafts is extensive! I’ve already spoken to some of the dying arts; fortunately, many Moroccan arts remain vibrant. Textiles (carpets, in particular) are, I believe, among the best known of Moroccan arts. As a cat owner, I opted against getting what I believe would have become another cat scratcher (sigh), but I did purchase a small pillowcase. And I thoroughly enjoyed seeing many extraordinary examples of incredible craftsmanship. These were at the Cooperative Tizerzit: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...52df603ad.jpeg Ceramics (I've already shown a photo of a cooperative), leather tooling, and copper work are among the most vibrant of the crafts I observed – deservedly so! Here’s a coppersmith in Fez: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6204a611f.jpeg And a view of the Chouara Tannery in Fez: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ead575f74.jpeg Traditionally, jewelry has been a focus of Moroccan craftsmanship, and I was awed by several collections of these items -- in the Musee Berbere within the Jardin Majorelle and the Monde des Arts de la Parure, both in Marrakesh, and in the National Museum of Adornment in Rabat all glorious stuff! This photo is from the museum in Rabat. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ac108fa6.jpeg Traditional dress was also featured in many museums and there were some glorious examples! This caftan was on display in the Monde des Arts de la Parure in Marrakech: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e8cdaecf.jpeg Next up … more of what I liked most…. |
Wow, I thought the cat would merit at least one comment.
- - - What I liked most, continued: In addition to performing arts and an amazing array of crafts, I was happy to indulge in some fine arts and to learn more about some Moroccan photographers and painters. Examples of prehistoric art always fascinate me, as they speak to the creativity of ancient peoples. This example is from Rabat's Musee de l'Histoire et des Civilisations. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2eed8f22d.jpeg Several photographers caught my eye, in particular, I loved this shot by Sarah Smahane, which was on display at the Musee de la Femme in Marrakech. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3dbb7f7d7.jpeg I had not known the work of any Moroccan artists before my trip -- or at least, I didn’t know them as such. During my travels, I saw several paintings by Rachid Hanbali, whose work I enjoyed. Here’s one example from the Museum of Intangible Heritage in Marrakech – a painting of Bab Agneou, which is a beautiful (to my eye) Almohad city gate in that city. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...959aa6c4f.jpeg I greatly appreciated a painting at the lovely Villa des Arts in Rabat. I wish I could tell you more about it! My photo of the label says “Almolouk” and identifies it as from 2023, but I’ve been unable to learn more about it. If any of you can provide further information, please do! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...12caf100a.jpeg Next up … more of what I liked most…. |
What I liked most, continued:
I mentioned in the first post of this thread that I found Morocco to be a land of contrasts, and that was another aspect of my experiences that I most enjoyed: juxtapositions! The medinas of Marrakech and Fez were full of them -- women wearing hijabs riding motorcycles through souks and heavily laden donkeys passing shops catering to Westerners and displays of cheap Western goods next to gorgeous Moorish entryways. Here’s just one example, from Marrakech: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c6e8ed82f.jpeg I loved watching two traditionally attired women walk by a sculpture by Nikki de Saint Phalle outside the Mohamed VI Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art in Rabat. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6c93695a2.jpeg And electric guitars in the desert! I had expected to hear some live Berber-influenced music around my camp’s evening fire; I didn’t expect electric guitars. But then I realized it made sense – who would risk getting sand in an acoustic guitar? https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...efd46fca1.jpeg Next up … more of what I liked most and, I expect, the last post of this trip report…. |
What I liked most, continued … and the end of this trip report.
I saw some amazing things, and I experienced some memorable moments while in Morocco! Some of my favorites are ones I can’t show you: You should be grateful that I’m not offering a picture of me on a camel. Or of me in a hammam. And I don’t have a picture that conveys the glorious night sky, seen from the desert, once the musicians and my campmates had left and after all signs of man-made light had been extinguished. That night sky – utterly unbelievable! They were wonderful experiences that I hope others will make part of their time in Morocco. And none of the photos I’ve shared can begin to capture the hospitality or generosity of the people I encountered during this trip. Their welcome is certainly among the things I treasured most and that I found among the most rewarding of my experiences in magnificent Morocco. I’ll leave you with a few glimpses into the lives of some Moroccans I encountered: Teenagers enjoying the Hassan Tower in Rabat: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...10855a548.jpeg People in a market in the medina of Marrakech: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9dc901e2c.jpeg And an enduring memory of the desert: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9a6d96f3b.jpeg I hope this report proves of use to people. My thanks to tripplanner001, zebec, and Travel_Nerd for their comments. |
Thanks for taking time to share your trip with us, kja. I enjoyed reliving some of my own moments in Morocco and seeing new bits of it through you.
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Fabulous photos kja! OMG, was all of that food meant for one person?
I love that they take such good care of the cats:cat: |
@ tripplanner001: Thanks again!
@ Melnq8: Weren't those servings ridiculous? I was assured the food would not be wasted; I hope not! And I agree about the cats -- they were clearly well cared for. I enjoyed seeing that. :) |
Hey, any recommendation for a reliable tour guide?
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Originally Posted by sheebs
(Post 17677511)
any recommendation for a reliable tour guide?
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KJA, I’ve just stumbled across your wonderful Trip Report and savoured it like fresh dates & a ripe cheese. Thank you so much for your fascinating insights - lovely writing & such evocative pictures.
Morocco has been on my radar for a while & seeing how & what you did in 3 weeks has rejuvenated it for me. We had a group of 6 trip for my niece’s birthday in 2021 planned but you know what happened to that. I notice you were there during Covid, Tripplanner and am glad it worked out for you. Thanks again, Kja! |
@Bokhara2: If you like fresh dates and ripe cheese as much as I do, then you’ve given me a great compliment! Many thanks. :) Let me know if you have any questions as you plan (re-plan) a visit to this wonderful destination.
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Thanks KJA- will do. 🤗
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