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Paris at Christmas

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Old May 11th, 2024, 02:30 PM
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Paris at Christmas

DH and I have been to Paris six times -- we start there for 4-7 days, then explore another area of France. However, we have never been there in winter, or more specifically at Christmas. Find myself pining over those windows! So, looking for some tips from those of you who live there (Kerouac, et al) or who've travelled then. We may be accompanied by daughter & husband and their two teens (15 & 17) who are great travellers. Realize that we will probably not be clocking 10-12,000 steps/day as we normally do, will use the Metro or bus (love line 63 thru St.Germain) if weather cold or wet. We live here in the NYC Metro area and are skiers, so all have the baselayers, down jkts, Smartwool sox, and waterproof lined boots needed for wet/slushy days, no problem.

Looks light we'd fly out Christmas night, and stay 5 days only, back in time for New Years. Daughter & husband have been to Paris, but not the girls. Shortest ever, but ok with that. Sights over four non-travel days would be: Notre Dame, Christmas service at Eglise St. G de P (on 12/26) , Shakespeare & Co (girls are readers), Angelina on Rivoli (every visit) , Orangerie (Louvre as a maybe if tix available), view atop Arch de T, the Passages, especially Vivienne, more if inclement, up to Montmartre, and D'Orsay if tix can be reserved. St. Chapelle if possible. And of course Champs du Mars will have the Village de Noel. And being the shopper I am, Le Bon Marche & G-L are musts, probably Laduree for treats, and dinners at our fave bistros in the 6th & 7th arr. No problem.

Our issue is choice of hotel locale: our fave in 6th arr on Rue Jacob, OR through a just-discovered group travel trip which puts us at a 4* in the 14th arr in Montparnasse. We have explored Montparnasse somewhat on some former trip -- the Cartier, the tower, the Brittany cafes. Didnt find it my fave area. Hotel is the Drawer House, and maps out as a 30 minute walk due north to Rue de Sevres. Question: is it a bit too far off the beaten path or highlights along the Seine?? The travel trip totals air & hotel at less than the hotel in St. G de P, not surprisingly.

As always, all opinions welcome, Fodorites!

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Old May 11th, 2024, 03:27 PM
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Don’t know if this will help. We were in Paris just before Christmas last December. This was our 2nd December visit, but we had visited the city many other times in the last.

We lucked out with weather in the 50’s with sun, but the weeks before and after had lots of rain. We have stayed in Montparnasse area but prefer closer to the Seine if possible.
What we did do this last Dec. was use a lot of taxis, not that expensive all in all.
Check out my TR for some ideas.

Another fantastic December Paris adventure
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Old May 11th, 2024, 04:42 PM
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We've visited Paris 4 times at Christmas. But all trips have been 10 night to 15 night stays just before Christmas. Stunning. One time it snowed. We were there December 2021 - just as Covid test requirements were in flux. We walked as many steps as we do normally when we visit Paris in Sept or Oct. On our first trip, kerouac gave us a very detailed descriptions of which streets had significant lights on them.

We dined at many restaurants in this book.
The Brasseries of Paris
Amazon Amazon

We spent several days exploring the dozen or so passages in Paris.

We visited London for Christmas in about 2014, and did not find it to be nearly as interesting as Paris.

Stu Dudley
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Old May 11th, 2024, 08:26 PM
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Have been in Paris in winter, over New Year/ la Saint-Sylvestre but not Christmas itself. One year we visited Versailles - the town, not the chateau - and loved it despite an ice storm, especially how the merchants got together and coordinated their holiday decor. The captivating Parisian department store windows will still be on display and there will be some Marchés de Noël still open . With your wardrobe at the ready weather should not be a concern, layers are always the best strategy.

For such a short trip, I'd stay with your fave on rue Jacob so you don;t have to get oriented to a new locale. It's pretty well located to get to the places on your list. We stayed nearby on rue de l'Université and liked the location. There are cheaper locations but if that's not an issue then enjoy.
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Old May 13th, 2024, 03:55 AM
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Thanks all, at this point daughter is looking up the location in Montparnasse (she dormed in the 14th for semester abroad 20 years ago) and we'll make a decision in coming months. Regardless, think we'll opt for the UA EWR-CDG flight Christmas night at 9:30p, we've found the later flights help us get to sleep (well at least me, DH is out before off the runway). Stu, thx for tip on the brasseries, for $6, why not, but I have a library of books on France, my latest fave is 'Paris: The Collected Traveller' which gives deeper and broader insight on a multitude of topics, not the most handy at 700 pp but wonderful reading.
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Old May 13th, 2024, 09:08 PM
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hard to go wrong, alice!
If you get into UA's Premium Plus seats, go for it. t's sort of like reverting to the old days of Business Class between coach and first. We did it into LHR and back to EWR and really enjoyed it. I usually don't sleep well on planes, even in the Polaris seats I find to be coffinlike, but sawed logs for hours!
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Old May 14th, 2024, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Seamus

For such a short trip, I'd stay with your fave on rue Jacob so you don;t have to get oriented to a new locale.
I would too.
I switched hotels last week to return to my favorite in the 6th and am returning again in December. I love staying in the 6th and I love staying at my favorite hotel, especially when it's decorated for Christmas. I vote for "familiar".

Paris at Christmas is magical!
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Old May 14th, 2024, 02:41 PM
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Five nights on Rue Jacob is running $1810 while four nights in Montparnasse is at $3120 -- are you kidding???? Don't understand why so many people go with travel groups (although this would be independent). But then my background is research so no intimidation there. St. Germain it is! Thanks everyone! Now if those airfares can just come down....
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