Pavie’s take on the classic, and banned, ortolan dish. The staff covered our heads with linen and instructed us how to eat it. It was surprisingly intimate. From the Wine Spectator: For centuries, a rite of passage for French gourmets was the eating of the Ortolan. These tiny birds—captured alive, force-fed, then drowned in Armagnac—were roasted whole and eaten that way, bones and all, while the diner draped his head with a linen napkin to preserve the precious aromas and, some believe, to hid