On the advice of locals, I chose the stately, fin-de-siecle spa 'Bains de Rocher'. We all had to wait outside before opening. The river was raging and the deluge was coooold!! The spa had an ancient tree outside, an indoor-outdoor pool, various water jets throughout plus a few unexpected features. So relaxing. After chatting with lovely Leah at Cauterets Tourism, I then shopped at the Belle Epoque Les Halles. Shown in yellow above: a competitor spa. Taxi driver David Serano later took me home.