Villa Rufolo is the setting of a summer classical/opera festival. Travelers can almost have the place to themselves if they arrive as we did, right for opening time. Tropical terraced gardens cascade down the steep property, with pergolas framing fine views of the precipitous coastline. Fountains, towers, belvederes and romantic nooks round out the scene. Off-season, one needs to be prepared for a pared-down appearance, devoid of many floral beds. But the incredible panoramas are year-round.