Yosemite to Tonopah.
 

Hi, a question that I am hoping the locals in the area might be able to answer for me. We are travelling from Australia to the US to be there for the month of January. Weather permitting, we are booked into the Tenaya Lodge in Fish Camp, near Yosemite for 2 nights in early January. Weather permitting because I know we may not actually be able to get there given the conditions at the time. But, it the weather gods are smiling on us, that is the plan.
My question: I want to get from there, to Tonopah at the top of Death Valley. Given weather conditions, can anyone offer some routes, alternative routes, for getting there from Fish Camp. We will have an AWD, with snow chains.
Thanks once again.
** To the wonderful folk who have contributed to my questions already, you have made such a difference to the planning of our 'trip of a lifetime'.xx

Kym

If Tioga Pass were open you would have a 3-hour, 150 mile drive. However, since the pass will be closed, your only alternative is to go the long way through Bakersfield, which is 500+ miles and takes 9-10 hours of driving.

HTtY

PS Tonopah is about 130 miles from Furnace Creek Ranch, which is where we stay when we visit Death Valley.

The smaller passes over the Sierras, including Tioga Pass, the eastern entrance to Yosemite, close in the winter. So, as far as I know, you must go around, either south over the Tehachapi Pass (58) or north to I-80 through Reno. Give yourself plenty of wiggle room as snow can close those routes too, although I-80 is open except during a heavy storm. There can also be snow & ice on the eastern side of the Sierras so just have plenty of time, should you need it.

Plan on going south via Midpines, Oakhurst, Fresno, Bakersfield Tehachipi and Barstow. Plan on spending the night in Barstow and heading out in the morning via Baker and Rt. 127 north from Baker. Do NOT spend a night in Baker. Barstow is an armpit but I have an even lower opinion of Baker.
Barstow has one hotel with interior corridors-find it.
Tonopah has the infamous Clown Motel (next to the cemetery).
You don't really want to stay there.

Okkkk... your replies were not what I was expecting. I thought there would be a quicker route, but hadn't factored in the long way to get to Tonopah. I may have to rethink the itinerary. We were going to Tonopah to be able to drive through Death Valley to LV. but maybe, we'll just have to give Tonopah a miss. Would you guys recommend seeing Death Valley? I know, it is not exactly scenic, but i thought that in winter, it would be another type of landscape to experience.

Just looked at a map. Would it be possible to go up through Lone Pne, Big Pine and Bishop? These do look very close to the mountain range on the map... but are they an option?

My last trip up 395 through Bishop I had to stop for a day to let a storm pass. Driving in and around the Sierras you must always be aware of any weather coming that way. 395 is a beautiful route but has high points of 7,000', if I recall correctly, so can have bad spots on occasion. Again, it all depends.

To get to lone pine you need to go over a mountain pass which are not open in winter ( nor much of Fall or Spring either)

Maybe lay out your whole plan and we can help you rearrange things. For instance in winter, DV and LV are much easier to reach from LA than from anywhere in Northern California. So say you are hitting SF/LA and the coast plus Yosemite, it would make sense to do them in a different order.

<i>Would you guys recommend seeing Death Valley? I know, it is not exactly scenic...</i>

Yes. We like to visit Death Valley every two or three years. I think it is scenic, be if it isn't, the views are at the least impressive, striking, and panoramic. The night skies are spectacular.

We stay at Furnace Creek Ranch, and one of our favorite drives is nearby Artist's Drive.

HTtY

PS If you tell us where your start your trip, where you end it, and how many days you have, we can give you better suggestions.

Thank you . We are in the US for a month, basically driving from Seattle to LA, but side- tripping to Yosemite and Vegas. With much excellent advice a few months ago , our itinerary was worked out. The flaw in my plan though , was that I was going from Yosemite to Tonopah to Vegas. I just didn't realize that the route I had looked at on a map would be closed. So it then became clear I would need to do a big loop DOWN from Yosemite to go UP to Tonoph, and Tonopah was never really a destination in itself, just a way to get from Yosemite to Vegas. So now I am trying to decide whether to still do that . We are doing all of this in January. I have booked my accomm in Yosemite and Vegas, so the question now is ... Where to spend the night in between.

What do you think of the idea of going Yosemite, north to Sacramento, Reno, through Coaldale? to Tonopaph. How long do you estimate this might take ? We will be covering the coast between San Francisco and San Louis Obispo later in the trip. I hadn't thought of going inland through Rena. Is it an interesting trip?

Interesting and beautiful, but I would not do it in winter. Long way to get to LV. Plus going over to Reno and south on 395 may still get you into winter storms. Your best bet is just heading south, out of Yosemite thru Fresno, Bakersfield, Tehachapi over to LV. I would just drive straight thru, Yosemite to LV.

"...best bet is just heading south, out of Yosemite thru...Tehachapi over to LV."

Keeping in mind Tehachapi is high and also subject to winter weather.

<i>We are in the US for a month, basically driving from Seattle to LA, but side- tripping to Yosemite and Vegas.</i>

I agree that in January it is best to be closer to the coast and the southern part of California.

If you plan to skip Highway 1 from Carmel south to LA, you will miss one of the most scenic drives in the USA.

Las Vegas is a good base for visiting Death Valley, Valley of Fire State Park, and Zion National Park. Zion is a place of extreme beauty; I don't know the weather conditions there in January, but I would imagine snow is likely.

HTtY

Hi. No, we totally plan to do the coastal trip from San Fran down to San Louis Obisopo, but from there we actually head up to Yosemite ( we are back-tracking there a little bit, but it just worked out better that way for us). However, I might still need to do a rethink, i think! You have been most helpful, and my thanks.

Is your booking in Vegas changeable/refundable. It should be. If so, and IF you really want to see Las Vegas, then I'd continue down the coast to the LA area. Then you can drive over to Vegas for a couple of days or even easier fly over and back.

This will let you see more of the glorious coast plus skip the horribleness of Yosemite to LV through Bakersfield.

Also, how are you getting through Oregon into California? If the coast, may be wey but OK. If down I-5, then you also might face snow and winter driving conditions.

Yes, I have ecome more aware of what the weather may hold for us. We are actually staying at a cabin in Leavenworth for the 5 days over Christmas and then making a slow drive to SF to be there for New Year's. If the weather does hold out and we can handle it we'd like to hang around in Seattle for a day or so to see the Boeing Flight Centre (the upside? of travelling with 3 males!), then we will dow a drive down the coastal road to SF, stopping at the things that take our fancy along the way. We will not be taking large freeways if i can help it, I love the little roads and towns much better. Plus we are not experienced snow drivers (but we do ski so we drive up our snowy slopes each year), so i would rather handle wet than snowy/icy. So this means sticking to the coastline anyway. But if the weather is just too dreadful, then we will make our way more quickly down the coast to better conditions hopefully. It's funny.... i have driven the SF to Big Sur coast 3 years ago for my sister's wedding, the whole reason to take my family there again. I loved it!! BUT, the drive out to Vegas is also going to be interesting as we are VERY used to long, desolate drives living in Australia. And it will all be new to us, so it doesn't bother me at all. Our kids are seasoned car travellers.

I was initially going SF down to San Louis Obispo (to see the Monarch butterflies hopefully) then up to Yosemite and across to Tonopah to start the drive through Death Valley to Vegas. But from the conversations above, the ACROSS part just isn't going to be possible. So, i am now thinking SF to Yosemite, to SLO to Vegas. We are ending out month with 8 days in LA, so that part is sort of locked in.

I'd do SF to Yosemite to Monterey / Carmel and then down the coast. You can jog over to Las Vegas (if you must) much easier from Southern California than from either Yosemite or San Luis Obispo.

Thanks, I think I'll do that.
When foreigners visit the west coast of the US, Vegas is a must!! We want to see the bright lights and it is just so over the top out there, that it just has to be experienced. Not that I have been there yet, but we are looking forward to it all. Plus, I have heard that that is where some great shopping can be had in the outlets etc for me. It will be my day to myself! Away from 'MUUUMMMM! Are we stopping at more trees and beaches! Do we have to... and How far is it now?'

I agree with Janisj's route. There are butterfly groves in Santa Cruz and Pacific Grove and also by SLO near Pismo Beach. December is prime for butterfly viewing in the groves. We have been to PG a couple of times around Christmas. One year was great and a few years later, not so much. The viewing in Pismo was great when we were there about 4 years ago. So amazing to see them in clusters.

Not sure if staying in Fish Camp will be the best for this routing. Janisj or others can give better directions.

Many times we have gone in search of butterflies in all the places mentioned here, and most of those attempts have been a wild goose chase. Most of the butterflies we have seen have been huddled in clusters which look like big sacks high up in trees. Bring high powered binoculars if you plan to go in search of butterflies. They are not likely to be fluttering around and landing on your shoulder.

<i>We are VERY used to long, desolate drives living in Australia.</i>

There you can't avoid them; here you can!

However, if that's what you like that is what you are going to have driving from Las Vegas to the Grand Canyon and from the Grand Canyon to Los Angeles. It's not the way I like to spend my sightseeing time, but you're from Down Under and I'm from Up Over.

HTtY

PS The Las Vegas Strip is one of the most unusual and eye-popping places in the USA. It is a spectacular place. Enjoy!

We are not going to do the drive to the Grand Canyon - we have decided to lash out and do it as a helicopter day trip, which includes landing there. It will be quite the experience for our 9 and 10 year olds! I see your point re the butterflies, and if their numbers just aren't there then we'll simply enjoy the sights of that part of the coast . I will make enquiries when over there about where best to try and see the clusters.
I am in the process of changing our reservations at Yosemite to go straight there from SF.

I know people who have done the helicopter ride and LOVED the whole experience. But just so you know, the helicopters can't fly over the main (National Park) parts of the canyon. They fly over/land at west GC. But still quite a thrill.

As for Yosemite, try for Yosemite Lodge at the Falls (in Yosemite Valley). It will likely be booked up but there are frequent cancellations so keep trying. As a fall back booking (and cancellable) Yosemite View Lodge in El Portal is your best bet. It is much nearer the Valley than anyplace else.

I'd book Yosemite View Lodge and then keep trying for Yosemite Lodge - even after you are in the States if necessary.

That's intersting Janisj. I have done a bit of research into Yosemite and from what I can gather, much of it is inaccessible in winter. Our best bet, i thought?, was to go from Fresno up Highway/Road 41, to Fish Camp, where we have booked into Tenaya Lodge. I know it is not actually in the park, but we would be nervous about driving conditions in the park in winter and we most definitely DON'T want the risk of getting snowed in. So we thought Tenaya Lodge sounded viable. Once there, we can always put ourselves in the hands of those more capable than us and do day trip into the park if it's open. Are you familiar with Tenaya Lodge at all? The idea of staying at Fish Camp came from other Fodor Folk earlier in the year when i was really in full planning mode.

We've stayed at the Tenaya Lodge, it is very nice. We also stayed at what are now their cottage rooms but were then a separate property, and walked over to eat at Tenaya's restaurant - also very nice.

As I recall, it was about an hour's drive to Yosemite valley floor, in a season without much traffic and no snow (late Sept/early Oct). I would certainly recommend you call them now to arrange for that day trip, so you are assured of your spots.

The helicopter does not go to Grand Canyon National Park but to tourist trap Grand Canyon West. I still recommend trying to stay overnight in the park, but if you cannot fit it in, there is a fixed wing tour from Vegas to GCNP.

If you are coming from SF, Hwy 41 and Tenaya Lodge is out of the way and not the direction you are coming from. El Portal is a more direct route from your direction and closer to the Yosemite Valley.
I agree with Janisj's advice

All of Yosemite valley will be accessible and that's all you'd have time for inI your short stay even if more was accessible.

You will want to enter at El Portal - you'll go vis Merced and the road hugs the river for much of the route so a lower elevation.

Last December I was in Yosemite over Christmas and since I have a Mini Cooper roadster and don't want to use chains, that's the route I took. IF there had been snow on the road I could park at Yosemite View Lodge and taken YARTS ( the Yosemite area local bus system ) right to the middle of Yosemite Village. On the actual dat the road was clear and I drove on to Yosemite Lodge no problem. But YARTS was my plan B.

You should do something like that . . . You don't want to stay in Fish Camp or use hwy 41

We just stayed at Yosemite View Lodge in El Portal. We had a lovely river view room with private patio,fireplace, kitchen and a spa bath, which we didn't use because of the drought. We really liked it, and actually were glad to leave the valley in the evening for the relative peace of El Portal.
Even if Tioga pass is open when you are visiting nothing will be open in the park, and very little along the 395, or across to Tenopah. Many places are already closed for the winter and a lot more close by the end of October.

It can get snowy up in Washington state, and any route involving mountain passes could be closed even to vehicles with chains.

Do you know how to fit chains and how to drive with them?

Hi all. Now i REALLY do need help! I must have read somewhere/been told/thought that I would not be able to get into Yosemite NP in January, and therefore to stay just outside the park. So, (again from a source that I can't place) I was told to enter via the south entrance at Arch Rock?? and from looking at maps etc, i figured Tenaya Lodge at Fish Camp was the safest bet for being able to get as near to the NP as possible. Of course, this entrance MAY be closed but I was assured by the Lodge that this is unusual.
From what you have posted above, it seems you're suggesting El Portal and the Yosemite view Lodge there. Is this inside the park, will we be able to get there in our AWD? I get to El Portal via Merced, is that right? but isn't Fish Camp just around the corner from there anyway? I thought we would go via Fresno to Fish Camp where the Tenaya Lodge is.

I can still cancel my Tenaya Lodge accomm, but is El Portal really any different?

I am sorry if I am confusing you... I am confusing myself!!

Hmmm....Kym

My husband is able to fit chains and we have once-a-year experience with fitting them and driving with them. Hardly seasoned at it, but hopefully, sufficiently competent?!

From Fish Camp to Yosemite valley requires ~30mi drive from the South entrance on Rt41, up and over some higher elevation - several thousand feet higher.

That means that Rt41 is subject to chain restrictions and/or closure when Rt140 through El Portal may be clear. Rt140 follows the Merced River and does not go over any higher elevations points before it reaches Yosemite Valley.

Yosemite is a huge park and the higher elevations, over 7000' and Tioga Pass are closed because of snow. Yosemite Valley is not and will be where you are going.

You DO NOT want to stay in Fish Camp nor use hwy 41. Simply does not make sense - weather/distance/altitude/drive time-wise.

Please listen to us. Some of us posting on your thread actually live in northern/central California and can go to Yosemite any time. Stay at either Yosemite Lodge - or - Yosemite View Lodge (Yosemite Lodge would be better if you can get in)

El Portal is ENTIRELY different and MUCH. More convenient than Fish Camp.

Yosemite national park is the size of some countries - the part you will be visiting is a tiny % of the total, mainly Yosemite Valley but also possibly Badger Pass if you want to ski. Being near the south entrance has you many miles and a loooooong drive from where you will be sightseeing. So take Hwy 140 and stay at one of the two 'Yosemite Lodges' -- at the Falls (1) or View (2nd choice)
Trust us . . .

I trust you all totally , I was just unaware of the difference or the terrain challenges. I will cancel my booking for Tenay Lodge and try for Yosemite view Lodge or Falls. I have tried the website for Yosemite View but they aren't showing any bookings for next year. I wonder if they're going to be closed for reno or something?? You are all an invaluable help and I greatly appreciate your advice.

I suggest you call any possible accommodations that interest you that you're not able to book online now, in case you can possibly get a leg up on a confirmed booking, or at least find out exactly when you'll be able to book online. The good places go early.

http://www.yosemitepark.com/yosemite-lodge.aspx

http://www.stayyosemiteviewlodge.com

I looked at Yosemite View's site showing no availabilty in January. So, I called. The guy said they have plenty of rooms available and will check online to see what the problem is. Check in park first, Yosemite Lodge at the Falls. It may be more but you will be in the valley. Yosemite View is your fall back plan.

Hope this works out well for you.