Utah experts to help with itinerary please
 

I have just began to plan for a Sept or Oct 2011 trip and would appreciate any advice you have on our itinerary and time spent in each destination. We are retired so we have the time we need. We are walkers, not hikers so easy 1-2 mile walks are great.

We plan to fly into Las Vegas for one or two nights, rent a car and drive to the south rim of the Grand Canyon (140 miles)

From the GC we plan on driving to Page, Arizona and renting a boat on Lake Powell to go to the Rainbow Bridge (140 mile)

From Page we plan on driving to Arches National Park (stay in Moab?) (273 miles)

From Arches we plan to drive to Canyonlands (stay in Moab?)

From Canyonlands to Capitol Reef (156 miles, stay in Torrey?)

From CR to Bryce (115 miles)

Bryce to Zion(115miles)

Zion back to Los Vegas (168miles)

Knowing that we like to walk, explore and view scenery, how long do you recommend to spend in each destination? Is there anything along the way that you loved and that we should not miss? Is there anything we should change? And are there hotels, b&b's that you can recommend? Thanks!

Sounds like a good start so far. There are tons of threads here that have lots of advice on the places you would like to visit. I've done a couple of trip reports on the area if you care to look, just click on my name and scroll to the trip reports.

Grand Canyon I'd spend at least two nights to have one full day, more if you can. Walking along the rim is one of my favorite things to do. It's pretty easy walking and you can always pick up the free shuttle buses to ride to the next stop or back if you get tired. Plan on spending time stopping at the over looks as you exit the park at Desert View.

If you decide to rent a boat to go to Rainbow Bridge on your own, make sure you purchase the detailed lake maps you can get at Glen Canyon. This is an all day excursion and if you're not boaters then I'd recommend taking the boat tour out of Wahweap Marina to Rainbow Bridge. http://www.lakepowell.com/tours/scenic-boat-tours.aspx The last time we took this tour the lake was high enough to see Rainbow Bridge from where they docked the boat so I've never had to do the 1 1/2 mile hike so I can't say how hard or easy it is.

While at Lake Powell you might enjoy the Upper Antelope Slot Canyon tour just outside of Page. It's an easy, easy walk. Also the 3/4 mile hike to Horse Shoe Bend just south of Page. http://www.travelsw.com/southwest-tr.../horseshoe.htm Another favorite is the 1/2 day float trip on the Colorado River outside of Page. The float trip takes you pass what you view on the Horse Shoe Bend hike.
For Page if you are just doing the boat tour then two nights will work. Add another day for the slot canyon and float trip. Horse Shoe Bend could be worked in the day of arrival.

Easy Arches hikes are Double Arch, Windows, Park Avenue, Landscape arch. If you can muster up enough to do a 3 mile hike, then Delicate Arch is a must see. If not, you can see it from a distance at the Delicate Arch overlook.

Canyonlands Island in the Sky district, make sure you see the Green River overlook which is just a short walk. The Grandview hike is an pretty easy walk and you can just go as far as you want and back. Mesa Arch is short and pretty easy and the view there is seen in many photographs of the area.

While in Moab try to make time to drive the Potash Road Hwy 279 along the Colorado River and watch for petroglyphs. Also drive scenic Hwy 128 to Fisher Towers and back. This is a beautiful drive. If you have time you might also like driving Kane Creek Blvd which is on the opposite side of the road from the Potash Road. There are many more petroglyphs there too.

One full day at Arches, one day for Canyonlands and one day to explore and maybe do another hike in Arches. Arches is only 5 miles from Moab.

Capitol Reef is one of my favorite undiscovered areas. Capitol Gorge is an easy walk in a canyon where you will see the Pioneer Register. Grand Wash is one of my favorites but it's a 2 1/4 mile hike one way. You can just go in as far as you want and then come back. Two nights in Torrey should be enough for one full day to explore the park.

Plan on taking scenic Hwy 12 from Torrey to Bryce and plan on the day site seeing. Lots to do on Hwy 12! The Burr trail is an easy drive on the paved part, just turn around and go back once it turns to dirt.

If you don't want to do any real hiking in Bryce then I'd suggest walking along the rim from Sunset Point to Sunrise point and back. Make sure you see Bryce Point and drive the scenic drive. Two nights and one full day in Bryce should work.

The two mile round trip Riverside Walk in Zion is a must! You probably won't have any problem doing the Weeping Rock trail and the Lower Emerald pools. Might even try the Middle Emerald Pools but the Upper Pools is a hike. The Pa'rus trail is very easy walk and you can do it one way and then pick up the free shuttle bus. I'd spend at least 3 nights in Zion because it's so relaxing.

I've given the basic amount of time, if you want to plan easy days, I'd add as much more time as you can allow for each area.


Sept. & Oct. is our favorite time to be in this area! We are also retired and I just turned 60 and do all the walk/hikes mentioned above.

Utahtea

Not sure about renting the boat for that distance. You could be in for a rude surprise when you fill up on the return.
In November My DW and I got off the train in Salt Lake City, rented a car and drove to Green River. In the week we stayed in Green River we visited Arches, Canyonlands (Island in the Sky), Moab, Goblin Valley and Capitol Reef. Be sure to take the walk out to see Delicate Arch. We spent 2.5 days in Arches. 1 long day to see Capitol Reef and Goblin Valley SP. There some condos etc. in Moab. We decided to save some money staying at the Robber's Roost motel in Green River.

cd,

Like Utahtea and tomfuller, I would NOT recommend renting a boat to go to Rainbow Bridge. Lake Powell is gigantic, remote, and potentially very dangerous for small boats. Even if you are boaters, you need to take special precautions and make special preparations, plus the COST involved. All the gas at Powell has to be brought in by tanker from long distances + captive tourist market + gas-guzzeling houseboats & water toys of all types = 3 X normal prices.....

Wholy COW...I had no idea how expensive it was to rent a boat at Lake Powel http://www.lakepowell.com/powerboats-jetskis.aspx If there are just two people going, it's going to be a lot cheaper to take the tour!

My BIL and SIL brought their ski boat to Lake Powell and we didn't have any problems finding the canyon that lead to Rainbow Bridge but we didn't go down it because we knew we would have to do the hike and BIL had a bad knee. It wasn't that hard to find with the detailed map of the lake we bought at the marina.

Utahtea

I'll just add to the others.

Being of retirement age I know there's a big difference in capabilities depending upon physical condition. So being retired may not cause much to be omitted.

In Arches. Delicate Arch is a bit of a walk and it's mostly uphill going. However, there's nothing difficult. If you've been in the area for a day or two the elevation shouldn't be an issue. I would definitely try to do this hike as opposed to seeing Delicate Arch from the very distant viewpoint.

Stop and rest as required and drink water. Get there a couple of hours before sunset for an amazing view. The walk back is much easier.

When in Capitol Reef also go to Dead Horse Point and do the very short hike/walk to Mesa Arch. This is the only arch I've seen where you're at the top.

In Bryce I would at least hike a couple of hundred yards down Navajo Loop just to get down into the hoodoos. Then walk back up slowly and stop often as the elevation is 8,000 feet.

Forgot. On the way from Moab toward plan on a stop at Goblin Valley.

If you would wait until Mid-October you can catch some really nice fall foliage.

What great postings! Thanks so much! They have alredy been printed!

emalloy: I enjoyed reading your trip reports and yes, there is a lot of info here but sometimes that becomes overwhelming. :-)

Utahtea: What can I say, thanks for all your knowledge of this area and your time in writing it all down. The timeline and recommendations you gave are very valuable.

Tomfuller: I checked and what I could find out was that Green River is 50 some miles away from Moab. Did you make that drive every day to sites around there?

Dayle: Thanks for confirming what the others have said about no renting a power boat on Lake Powell...did not know it was dangerous.

Myer: What is hoodoos?

Spirobulldog: Would there be a possibility of snow in October?

Utahtea:
We are comparing the cost between renting an RV or renting a car and paying hotel. I know you have an RV, could you tell me how much per night for RV Sites?

53 miles from Green River to Moab downtown to downtown in 50 minutes. We had beautiful weather the first week of November.
No threat of snow. $11 worth of gas everyday was worth it to save over $20 more in Moab.
There was a campground near the trailhead for Landscape Arch.
There were campers there in November.
Google Goblin Valley and find out what hodoos are.

cd,

Hoodoos are the vertical spires of orange (or is it red) rocks that are all over Bryce Canyon.

Going down even part way is the only way to really get a feel for the place. Unless you are physically unable, do at least some of this.

Also, for a spectacular sight go to Bryce Point very early in the morning for sunrise (you'll get there in the dark). You will not be alone. Just wear some warm clothes as it's cool and windy there.

If you want to see my photos of most of these places you can see them at:

www.travelwalks.com

There are several trips that included the Utah and northern Arizona sights.

I don't know if anybody mentioned. At 62 years of age you qualify for a lifetime National Parks pass for just $10.00 available at the entrance to any park.

cd,

It's not that renting a boat at Powell is dangerous, it's just that it's a BIG, deep lake at high altitude and storms can be severe. You don't want to be caught out in the main channel during one of these.

I know Myer meant to say "while in Canyonlands" hike to Mesa Arch, and Dead Horse Point is actually a UT St park in the same area. Does require it's own entrance fee, but it's worth it! DHP - A few years ago, they put in a very nice new Visitor's Center and a wonderful loop trail for hiking/mtn biking. The route offers 3 different distances for your choice.

Moab is a very unique, fun and funky little town. To me visiting the national parks there and staying up in Green River (which is NOT very appealing) is like going to Venice, Italy and staying in Maestre (mainland). You kind of miss the whole point.

Obviously Dayle is correct. My brain said Canyonlands and my fingers typed Capitol Reef.

Also, what I wrote is a little misleading. Mesa Arch is a very easy, short hike near the beginning of Canyonlands. It's not in Dead Horse Point.

But still, Dead Horse Point is worth the stop when in the area.

Some beautiful scenery sirectly behing the visitors' center and some great views of a 180 degree turn of the Colorado river.

DH Point reminded me of the Grand Canyon, but prettier. The turn that Myer describes is really pretty.

You won't need to worry about snow. The trees in Capitol, Reef, Zion, and other areas are very nice on our 2 October trips(2nd and 3rd weeks in Oct). Be sure and drive the area around Timpanogos Cave area near Salt Lake for some great Fall Foliage.

cd, If you or your DH are age 62 you can get the Senior National Park Pass and that will also get you some camping at half price! WOOT...DH just got his!

Grand Canyon: Mather Campground no hook ups but showers nearby and 30ft limit is $18.00 per night and senior discount $9.00. Nice wooded area. Grand Canyon Trailer Village has hook ups and is $34.50 per night. I don't know if they give discounts at Trailer Village. It's also a very crowded type of campground, but has hook ups if you need them.

Lake Powell: Wahweap no hook ups $23 and Full hook ups $38.00 Because this is though ARAMARK I don't know if they give the senior discount. Full hook up sites don't have as much shade but great views of the lake.

Devils Garden in Arches has beautiful scenery but no hookups. If you decided to spend the night here, then make reservations! We've gotten spoiled and usually camp in Moab to have full hook ups since we usually spend a week in town. http://www.discovermoab.com/campgrounds.htm RV campgrounds can run from $30 - $40. They've gone up! Devils Garden is quite a drive when you need to go to town or want to go to Canyonlands. Since we have a tow vehicle we don't need to move the RV every day so that's another reason we opt for the full hook up. There are plenty of nice BLM campgrounds along the Colorado River on Hwy 128 and Potash Road. I don't know the fees but I'm sure it's reasonable. These are usually no hook up sites.

Goblin State Park has a nice first come, first serve campground if you decide to stop there for the night. no hook ups is $16.00 per nite and they have showers.

Capitol Reef: Fruit Campground in Capitol Reef is one of my favorites! No hook ups but plenty of shade trees and views and at $10 a night ($5.00 senior rate) its a great bargin! It's a first come, first serve campground so you need to get there early in the day. If it's full, there are private campground in Torry. Figure $30 - $35 per nite.

We haven't stayed in Bryce Canyon campgrounds in a long time, we've been staying at Ruby's Inn. We're getting spoiled...LOL! Both North and Sunset Campgrounds are $15.00 per night and $7.50 with senior discount, no hook ups but showers nearby. Both are in wooded settings and we found it hard to find a level site for our 30ft motor home. Ruby's Inn Campground runs $35 - $40 with hook ups. You can catch the free Bryce Shuttle from the campground as long as you are there before Oct. 9th.

Zion: We love Watchman campground which has electrical hook ups. Price is $18.00 ($9.00 senior) for regular campsite and $20.00 ($10.00 senior) for River site. Make reservations as soon as you have dates because this park now fills up fast even at this time of the year! South Campground in on a first come, first serve basis and is also very nice but no electrical it's $16.00 ($8.00 senior). There are a couple of RV parks just outside the park in or near Springdale. The Zion Canyon Campground in Springdale, UT across the river from Zion is not my favorite and around $35 per night. There is a nice looking resort campground in Virgin and it is not only expensive, but you don't see views of Zion there.

Hope this helps and let me know if you have more questions.

Utahtea

If we rented a RV, and knowing the places we plan on visiting, could we get away without having another vehicle?

Yes. Let me say that when I visit each of the places you list, I have done them usually on seperate occasions taking 3-5 days to give each area the time it needs. Don't just go through each place to check them off your list. Especially when camping in an RV, part of the enjoyment is not rushing through thing. Perhaps you should give us an updated ITEN. There certainly are many places in between you could see.

The places that are our priority are the ones listed and we are just trying to determine which is the most economical, renting an RV or renting a car and using motels. If we go the motel route, do we have to have advanced reservations? I would really like to wing it so we could stay longer if we wanted but according to Utahtea there are campsites that I should make reservations for...

cd, I'm not a Utah expert but we used to go out that way a lot and didn't make reservations a lot of the time. In Oct/Nov I'd be comfortable with winging it with hotel rooms AFTER the Grand Canyon stop. I'd go the hotel route too, considering how much moving around you plan to do. There are a lot more hotels in the area then there were when we first starting going out there.

I'd definitely make a reservation IN the park at the Grand Canyon. I've added Gouldings in Monument Valley to my wish list. Here's an interesting article to read -

http://www.vanityfair.com/culture/fe...t-valley200903

Enjoy the trip. Seeing Delicate Arch for the first time, after seeing it in textbooks and calendars for years, was a thrill for me. It's just gorgeous out there.

Thanks starrs.

cd,

We had a 24 foot motorhome for 13 years and visited all these parks with out a tow vehicle so you should be fine as far as driving around. Just keep in mind the larger the RV you get, the hard it can be to find a place to park. The great thing about the Grand Canyon, Bryce and Zion is you can ride the free shuttle buses and leave your RV at the campground.

The two main places to make reservations would be your first stop at the Grand Canyon and your last stop at Zion, so you should be able to get a pretty good idea for dates at those places. If you want to be free to make changes, then maybe skip camping in Arches. Or you can always make reservations for when you think you will be there and then cancel. I think it will cost $10 to do the cancellation. If you don't mind staying in private campgrounds, you shouldn't have a problem getting RV spaces.

It wasn't to many years ago that we could do your trip and not make any reservations, but times have really changed and Zion's Watchman campground is one of the worst places to try and get in on last minute. BUT if you do wait, keep checking online if you can and sites do open up! I know!!!

One more thing, make sure you start your trip AFTER Labor Day. I think it's Sept. 5th year.

Utahtea

I think you would be wise if you made reservations at hotel/motel or campsites. You would probably be able to find lodging, but it might not be the one you want. I really enjoy the historic lodges myself. I think you will for sure spend more money with an RV. If it were me. I would drive from Las Vegas to North Rim of Grand Canyon. It closes on Oct 15. So you would want to be there a day or two before it closes.
So heres my suggestion--
Oct 10 North Rim of Grand Canyon
Oct 11 North Rim
Oct 12&13 Lake Powell, Best Dam View, Antelope Canyon Tour
Oct 14&15 Bryce
Oct 16&17 Hwy 12, Calf Creek Falls, Capitol Reef
Oct 18 Goblin Valley, Little Wildhorse Canyon, drive on to Moab
Oct 19-23 Moab, Arches, Canyonlands
Oct 24-26 Zion
then back to Vegas

I was trying to arrange this so it would give you good Fall Foliage. You could stay in the lodges and Moab, or you could stay in the campgrounds.
I haven't stayed at any of the campgrounds, but they all look good. Capitol Reef and Arches do not have hookups or showers. Goblin Valley, Deadhorse Point do have showers. The reason I mention this, is that most RV's without hookups are pretty useless for showers. It think the smaller rentals only have like a 6 gallon hot water tank. That isn't going to be a very long shower. And those smaller types the shower is in the same spot as the toilet. The RV rental has always looked interesting and I am for sure going to try it someday. Probably though not on a trip as long as you need. I think I'll give it a go on a long weekend to somewhere that you really can't find lodging. I have always wanted to do it at Great Basin National Park. or somewhere similar.

How adventurous and strenuous do you like your hikes to be?
I love stuff like Angels Landing in Zion, but didn't know what kind of hiking or how much to suggest. There is plenty of variety for everyone.

You could start out with the South Rim if thats the side you really want to see, but don't expect fall foliage there as there really aren't many trees on that side. And you can expect much smaller crowds on the North. I have been to the South 3 times, but never to the North, but I know that they are different but similar. It is high on my list of places to see. The Wave and Lake Powell are also high on my list. You'll have a good time however you end up doing it.

I happily defer to UtahTea in all things western. She has helped me plan several trips and I consider her the SW USA expert :-)

If you have time to add in the North Rim of the Grand Canyon before it closes for the season, do so. I LOVE it! But in addition to the South Rim, not in place of it. The South Rim has spectacular views. The North Rim feels more like what I always imagined a NP to be like. I adore it. We stayed in a cabin not far from the rim and enjoyed it and the restaurant at the lodge.

Starrs the reason we wanted the south rim is because we have been to the north rim but it's been so long ago either rim would be just fine

spirobulldog, I'm confused with your order for us. From Lake Powell, on the map, I chose north to Moab to include Arches and Canyonland and as starrs recommended Monument valley, maybe I could include that, then on to Capital Reef at Torrey then hwy 12 to Bryce and then on to Zion. Kinda like a circle. Was there a reason that I am overlooking that you recommended Bryce after Lake Powell? And we are adventurous but not in hiking, we are walkers and lookers :)

Utahtea, thanks for the AFTER Labor Day tip!

Oh, I was thinking more in terms of fall foliage and doing a little bit on the way and on the return. Circle would probably be better logistically.

Don't miss the hike to Delicate Arch. It will take you about 2 hours to get to it and then only an hour on the return. Getting to it is all uphill, so it is easy going back. Just take your time and a couple of bottles of water.

cd,

For most of these areas, you will find them still quite busy up until mid-Oct! Retirees and Europeans travel after Labor Day, plus the weather in southern UT is wonderful in Sept.

Do all your math and calculations before you decide on RV vs. car/motels. Even small RVs suck down at LOT of gas (consider today's prices) and have BIG gas tanks to fill. It's really very painful.....plus they charge you for miles driven.....plus you need to bring or rent a "kit" from them if you fly in.....things to cook with, clean with, then go buy your food. You can't pick it up until after 1pm and have to bring it back before 11am (depending on company and location), so really you can't count on actually using it for 2 of the days you are paying for. RVing is not cheap!

I'll be the first to admit that RV's are expensive to rent and plan on only getting 8 to 10 miles per gal. OUCH!

That said a 23-25ft RV is pretty comfortable for two. http://www.cruiseamerica.com/rent/ou...andard_rv.aspx Water heaters are small but you can take water conservation showers every day. Six gallons of hot water goes a long way because you mix cold water into it. Hot water heats quickly. Since the RV will be driven almost daily, you can fill and dump often. We rented the standard RV 25 ft size from Cruise America back in 1993 and had plenty of room and there was DH, myself and two teenage sons.

With an RV's you only have to pack and unpack once. You can save money by fixing your own meals.

When you look at renting make sure you figure in all costs like check to see if they charge for generator hours. Do they charge for miles?

Your itinerary is part of our 2010 trip, but the other way round.
- 2 nights Las Vegas
- 2 nights Bryce Canyon
- 2 nights Moab
- 1 night Monument Valley / Kayenta
- 3 nights Lake Powell
- 2 nights Grand Canyon / Tusayan
We did some small hikes, but nothing 'substantial'.
I would have appreciated one night more in Bryce, Moab and Grand Canyon.
We mainly stayed in 3-star hotels such as the BW and Holiday Inn.
One recommendation for Bryce Canyon, a B&B in Tropic named B&B Brycetrails. Nice and clean rooms, very quiet setting with a back entrance in the park, and a huge and excellent breakfast at 8am sharp!

Spirobulldog, as much as I would like to see Delicate Arch up close and personal, I don't think I'm up to 2hrs UPHILL but I will view it from the car which I do understand is not halfway as good.

Dayle and Utahtea - after careful examination and all your helpful tips, and for all the reasons given, we have decided to rent a car and stay in motels/hotels

baldrick, why one more day in Grand Canyon? What would you have liked to do that you did not do? Thanks for the b&b recommendation, it looks awesome.

My DW had her knee replaced 6 months before we made the hike out to Delicate Arch. She carried a golfseat/cane all the way. She sat about 5 minutes twice on the way out. It really was worth it. Be sure to walk out through the slot canyon out to Landscape Arch.

A total knee ummmmmmm When you all say uphill, how much of an incline is it?

I remember several stretches of about 15% which were less than 100 yards long. There are also several places where the trail goes slightly downhill for a short distance.
Unless the temperature is over 85 degrees you should make it if you carry at least a litre of water each.

If you don't make it to Delicate, you can easily make it to Double Arch. Double Arch(not to be confused with double O) is my very favorite arch. It looks pretty cool from the parking lot, but take the 1/4 mile short walk to it and sit under it for a while. Maybe have a sandwich or a snack under it. It has a some shade depending on the angle of the sun.

Delicate Arch hike -
description -
http://www.climb-utah.com/Moab/delicate.htm
video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heyJFFdH4Wk

We were there over spring break one year (and it snowed at the Grand Canyon). There was snow/ice in the crevices on the last part of the trail that worried me a bit. Coming around and seeing Delicate Arch literally takes your breath away. I didn't realize how lucky we were to be the only ones there that day.

starrs,

My last visit to Arches a year ago, was predicted to be the first 60 degree weekend in March. Saturday tee shirt and sunscreen hiking weather. That night it snowed and Sunday morning I got to visit the windows section of Arches with no visitors, running water and snow! What a TREAT!

cd

When you do the calculations to make the decision on if you will do the rv or car/motel thing, do look into hotel/motel rates in the wider area where you are staying. We've found that staying in Moab for Arches/Canyonlands can be expensive compared to Green River for example. That means a drive to/from the parks and of course some fuel costs. Sometimes we wing it, sometimes use the discount coupons from the roomsaver magazines, sometimes stop early to be sure of a bed, but if you know where you will be on a specific day making a reservation that you can cancel is a good idea.

We'll be out there in a couple of weeks and I did make a reservation for a couple of nights in Moab at the only motel that had a room last week. We want to do a tour that leaves early in the morning, so Green River would mean getting up before 5 am, not my idea of a good time.

Otherwise when winging it in the shoulder seasons, if all fails head for an interstate and look for an exit with lots of lodging choices, there will be a place to sleep.

starrs, I could not bring up the video but the link was informative. It did not say anything about the hike being uphill. I wonder why.

emolloy, thanks for the interstate tip

cd,

I mentioned it's uphill all the way. That wasn't intended to gauge difficulty. Rather, while not as high as Bryce, you are still in elevation.

I hiked it twice and saw people of all sizes and shapes doing it. It's just a matter of how often and for how long you may decide to rest.

People were stopping all the way. The good part is that it's downhill coming back.

There's nothing steep. It's not canyoneering or anything like that.

I had a full hip replacement two years ago. While the Delicate Arch hike was done prior to that event, I've since been on trips of various length and hiked all day.

Last September I was in Utah with my daughter and we hiked Angel's Landing to Scouts Lookout.

As others have written, don't let something relatively small stop you from an amazing sight.