Top 10 Alaskan to-do's
 

Okay, you experts. What are the top 10-15 places you would go with 2 weeks in Alaska? With all of the sample itineraries posted, I'm thoroughly confused! Also, when is the best time to go? Thanks!

I'm not as experienced as most - have just been to Alaska once on a cruise. But my favorite spots/experiences were:

1. Juneau - helicopter ride to glacier
2. Ketchikan - sea kayaking
3. Skagway - rental car and drive out of town

A flightseeing. We just did a short one over a glacier returning to Homer from an overnight in Seldovia. No, second thought is the Kenai Fjords boat trip out of Seward. We lucked out with perfect weather and calm seas. I loved watching the orcas. Independence Mine was fascinating, so was the Pratt Museum in Homer and the visitors center near Portage Glacier.
Our last trip was 3 weeks spanning mid-June to just after 4th of July. The wildflowers were beautiful and everyone was excited about the beginning of salmon season. We went to the Forest Fair in Girdwood and saw the 4th of July parade in Kenai.

As a sample routing-

One way cruise, better routing into Seward. Kenai Fjords boat tour, overnight in Seward, train to Anchorage, overnight. Talkeetna 1 night, Denali Park 2 nights.
Depending on interests, add Fairbanks, Homer, Valdez? Time is necessary and don't rush your attractions. Less is more here. Distances are vast, be certain to factor in plenty of added stops, it shouldn't be a marathon trip. :)

Thank you! That is just what I needed!

The Alaska Marine Highway. A state run system of ferry ships which serve primarily the port towns in the Alaska panhandle.

Budgetqueen, What do you think is the best time of year to visit Alaska?

There isn't a bad time, I've also made 2 winter trips. :) However if taking a cruise, after the first week of Sept. has the worse potential weather.

Overall early has more snow views, possible bears on the Inside Passage- will require costly tours other times. Full salmon runs end of July- Aug.

Go fully prepared for weather and pick a timeframe that fits your schedule best. I go mid-late August the most since peak bears via tours and salmon.

Dress for rain! Ketchikan for example gets twelve feet of rain per year.

Denali - take the earliest bus trip you can in late summer or early fall and you'll see the big 5 animals in Alaska. The Kenai Penisula is also pretty spectacular - Seward and a boat ride to glaciers and the sea life center. Hiking with bear bells anywhere on posted trails-climb next to a glacier. Valdez for the histroy of the oil spill and watching salmon fishing in the fall.
We took two weeks and flew to Ancorage, rented a vehicle and drove on every paved road (hah - loved the frost heaves) possible. We'd do it again in a minute.

We decided to go towards the end of May several years ago and that timing had several advantages, not the least of which included avoiding peak prices, crowds and mosquitoes. We also were able to drive into Denali as it was before the buses began running and we enjoyed the freedom of not being constrained to a bus schedule.
We flew into Anchorage, took a day-trip to Seward taking in Exit Glacier on the way returning for a second night in Anchorage before heading out to Denali. Stayed at the Denali River Cabins www.denalirivercabins.com and had a new, rustic cabin (#3) with beautiful walk-out deck to the Nenana river, about 6 miles from the entrance to Denali NP (very friendly staff, hearty, simple food in the lodge at that time. We also ate at the Overlook Bar and Grill which had splendid views and great, casual dining. I so loved the chili that I wrote to the staff after returning home to request the recipe and they graciously sent it to me.
After a couple of days exploring Denali, we hopped the Alaskan Railroad train at Denali (easy to park and leave car) and rode to Fairbanks where we overnighted at the Captain Bartlett Inn before the return train trip which was awesome. From Denali we drove to Talkeetna (don't miss this charming town) and stayed at the beautiful Talkeetna Lodge before returning to Anchorage to drop the car and overnight. The next morning we began our cruise portion of the trip on CruiseWest's, Spirit of Glacier Bay. We highly recommend the small ship cruises like this. We did the 3 nights, 4 days Prince William Sound RT from Whittier (motorcoach leaves from Anchorage), through Valdez and Columbia Glacier. It was a 50 passenger ship with highly attentive staff, great food and the huge benefit that it could travel in many places the larger ships were unable to go to get up close and person with glaciers and critters. We had a lower deck cabin (very small and no frills), but I would strongly consider an upgrade to the better category cabins on the main or upper decks. At Valdez we did a shore excursion with ERA Helicopters for the Columbia Glacier trip which was incredible. After we debarked in Whitter, Cruise West took us back to Anchorage where we overnighted at the Sheraton before the CW included transfer to the airport. After several large ship cruises, we really encourage you to explore the small ship cruises in Alaska for an unforgetable experience as was the Alaskan RR. Our next trip will include Ketchikan, Skagway

I get asked these two questions all the time, so I took the time to write up my best answers to both questions in a very detailed way on the website, www.alaska.org.

Here's when I think the best time to go is: http://www.alaska.org/when-to-visit.jsp

Having lived and traveled in Alaska for the past 15 years, here's my take on the best spots: http://www.alaska.org/best-of-alaska.jsp

However, you still need to put together an itinerary that works. That's probably the hardest thing about planning an Alaska trip, and I think budgetqueen's advice on that is very good.

BQ's generic list is pretty good.

If you're looking for a real top 10 list, here's mine -- for what it's worth. Obviously, because they include all seasons, it's not a list for one trip, but I thought I'd throw it out for discussion:

Bear viewing – McNeil River or Brooks Camp (budget alternative: bear watch from the road in Denali)

Denali flight seeing

Kenai Fjords boat trip

Sunset drive Turnagain Arm on a clear night

Hike Chilkoot Pass (budget alternative: Hike Cross Pass)

Bristol Bay drainage fishing trip (budget alternative: Upper Kenai float or lower Kenai king fishing))

PWS kayak/sailing trip.

Ruth Glacier spring skiing (budget alternative: alpine at Alyeska or Nordic on the Ski Train)

Follow Iditarod into the Bush or at finish line in Nome (budget alternative: Fur Rondy race in Anchorage or World Championships in Fairbanks)

McCarthy/Kennicott trip

Honorable mention: Homer halibut outing, Mendenhall helicopter flightseeing, Bush visit, i.e. Nome/Kotzebue trip
Glacier Bay, Glissading back down from Flattop Mt.; Running Mount Marathon, Canoeing Wood-Tikchik, Rafting the Charley, Gates of the Arctic tundra hike, Chena Hot Springs Northern Lights trip, St. Paul Island birding.
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As for the weather questions, I[ve got to chuckle at them. It’s a crapshoot and the odds are flaky. You can’t go by averages in Alaska. Weather systems often hover and stall there for much longer than in the Lower 48. If you get good weather be thankful. If you get bad weather, endure and have fun anyway.

Repete's list is a great one. I would make a few comments about it.

First, when I go bear viewing, I don't like a "controlled environment" or having lots of other people around. That's why I favor the Katmai Coast over either McNeil or Brooks. Also, the bears are down 25% at McNeil, and it will never feel the same now that Larry Aumiller, the visionary behind it all, resigned last year in protest over Fish & Game's hunting policies on the border of McNeil. But you can't go wrong with any of these places. Any will blow you away.

Second, you need to know that some of the things repete is recommending require a fair level of outdoor skill, such as Ruth Glacier spring skiing (requires being roped and knowledge of crevasse rescue techniques), or Gates of the Arctic tundra hike (requires camping out), or rafting the Charley (requires river skills).

Repete is right about the weather. It's completely unpredictable. Still, mathematical averages do mean something, and it does get rainer over the course of the summer. But like repete says, you gotta know how to enjoy yourself no matter the weather.

I agree with Repete's list, too, for sheer Wow factor. Some will take major resources and time from your two weeks to do.

A few "quickie" top vote-getters on my list are: Alaska Native Heritage Museum (Anchorage), SeaLife Center (Seward), Independence Mine and Hatcher Pass (Palmer). Do hike on a glacier (Matanuska, north of Palmer; Exit, outside Seward, the one just north of Valdez, or any other you happen upon. Always walk in someone else's tracks or get a guide for safety). These choices are a little more "regular" but still provide outstanding information to help you understand this place without eating up whole days of your itinerary.

AlaskaBob,
That's bad news about Larry A. I'd missed it because I live far away these days. He is responsible for some much public awarness of the bears, it's hard to fathom the state without him.

Yup, some of the items are too much for many of the general tourism population but I thought I'd throw them out as a ``buffet'' so thanks for clarifying.

I know I forgot some good things as well but I wanted to kick up the discussion. The Musk Ox Farm (although I haven't been there for years) is another consideration.

One of my favorite trips was watching the silvers stream into the creekmouth with the tide on Kodiak -- and then wrestling a few of them on an undersized flyrod.

Might also add a Haines river float during peak eagle season ... the list just grows.

Alaskabob and repete, I am too aware about hunting policies. There are others in Alaska who have similar views on hunting policies on the border of McNeil. Think about the owners of the Emerald Air Service in Homer. Their vision is just like Aumille's. Talk to them.

As to those special places in Alaska for me the number 1 is always Katmai National Park and Preserve with a small group (maximum 9 people)watching bears. The end of July is the best time, IMHO

ttt

We did a cruise the first week of August 06 and the salmon were running - awesome to see them jumping out of the water and so thick you couldn't miss them. Some folks in our group saw a bear lumber to the edge of the water, pick one up, then turn around and go back into the woods.

ProudMom, in August 2006?
Anyway, what boat, where?

I see on weather.com that April and June are the driest months, yet most travelers prefer August. Is this because of the animal viewing?

Well April is not a great time, it's ``breakup'' time in many parts of the state. June's unpredictable and not nearly as pretty as August.

Plus some years, the road deep into Denali isn't open until the second week of June.

Thank you all SO MUCH!You all are THE BEST!

The highlight of our Alaskan Road trip (there were many) was when we took a fourseater plan into Wrangell St. elias National Park to McCarthy-kennecott and hired a guide to take us out on the glacier for a day. We had our two young children with us at the time ages 11 and 9 and it was the experience of a lifetime.

Wow! What great lists!

Repete, you have a way of stirring a longing to see Alaska! Everytime I read one of your posts, and especially your lists, I am ready to go back!

Budget Queen, your succinct information always gets to the heart of what we're all truly asking without even knowing the right questions!

You two, and so many others, are such a blessing for anyone interested in seeing Alaska! No matter what kind of trip I am planning, I always stop at the Alaska board and anxiously read through your postings. Thank you so much for the time you take to help all of us!

At the suggestion of a frequent visitor to Alaska, we flew to Anchorage and rented a car toward the end of May. That's just before the high prices, families and hoards of cruise ship people start pouring in. We stayed at a Princess hotel (not just for cruise people) in McKinley Village, toured the park on the bus (only way you can get past the first 13 or so miles, other than on foot.) Also drove our car in as far as we could and hiked, saw lots of wildlife. Toured the husky kennels at the NP (wonderful dogs!) Also visited iditarod champion Jeff King's kennel. I love the dogs!

Drove to Talkeetna, a charming small town, where the Denali climbers usually start out. Flew to Denali base camp and over the Alaska range in a flightseeing plane. Stayed at the Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge (spectacular place!). Stopped for pictures at "Wal-Bobs," which is part of the charm of Alaska--lots of real individuals.

Drove back through Anchorage, checked out the earthquake park area, had several awesome dinners at Marx Brothers Cafe (wine lovers take note, this is a great place for you!) Did some shopping, headed to Kenai Peninsula around Turnagan (?) Arm, stopped at a bird sanctuary and walked the boardwalk, ate fresh strawberry pie at a nice log cabin style inn, visited the tourist center at Portage glacier, took the boat ride, had a picnic.

Headed to Seward, took a day cruise to Kenai Fjords, toured the Sealife Center, took a picture of the start of the Iditarod Trail, visited and climbed on Exit glacier, ate some wonderful fresh seafood, read the news that an experienced bush pilot and passengers heading to Denali base camp were killed just hours after we were there! Makes you think how fragile life is.

Couldn't get to Seward on the train, they had the tunnel closed for some reason, so that didn't work for us. However, this whole trip was done in a week, plenty of time to see and do all this. I am so glad my friend recommended seeing part of Alaska this way. We weren't herded around with a thousand cruise ship passengers, and got to see and do a little more that was close to the land and soft adventure. We don't like to rough it unless we are camping, so we stayed at some nice hotels and ate great meals.

For boat excursions on Gulf of Alaska, recommend using meclazine before boarding your boat--my husband got very seasick and the water can be rough. I loved that boat tour and would not have missed it for anything--we saw lots of sea life, whales, dolphins, birds, and calving Bear glacier.

Traveling to Alaska this way is not inexpensive however, and we stayed at some fairly inexpensive hotels in Anchorage. We aimed for $ 100 a night average over the trip (not possible in summer, when rates climb astronomically.) Weather in May was variable, sunny at times but can also be cold, windy and damp. Pack accordingly with softshell jacket or windbreaker and fleece layers, gloves, earcoverings and sturdy shoes or short boots that can take the walking and short climbs.

We are going back again in September to the inside passage area. Alaska is one of the last real wildernesses in the world, and I rate it's ability to take your breath away as equal to the Grand Canyon--two of the really spectacular places on earth.

The best time of year for comfort, warmth and beauty is May 15 to September 15. Denali National Park, Kenai Fjords, Kachemak Bay (especially Halibut Cove, Seldovia and Tutka Bay are exceptional), and the many facets of the Inside Passsage are all some of the most beautiful places anyone could want to see.
I also found the the Great Alaskan TourSaver to be one of the best resources for saving money while traveling to Alaska's top 10 or 15 places. All of the tours and attractions in this 2-for-1 coupon book are listed at www.toursaver.com. You hear it mentioned many times in Alaska travel forums for good reason.

ttt for sanddogmd

Wow, these are some great lists I will print out for future trips.
I would also attest for Katmai coast bear viewing, but would consider staying one night there in wilderness camp. I would also like to do Brooks Falls just once for the shear number of bears at one time. We didn't see nearly that many although we had quality time with one or two for 4-5hrs.

Denali will always be on our list, summit flt is fantastic from Talkeetna, Seward glacier cruises will always be a must on every trip. Misty Fjords np and Juneau and Hoonah whalewatching are hard to beat.

Bayougal...help??? what is your "ttt"???

ttt means "to the top." Fodorites use this in order to bring the thread to the top of the menu on the left where those seeking such information might easily find it.

BTW, visormom, enjoy your upcoming trip to Kauai. Please post a trip report when you get back home! Have fun! ;;)

thanks for all the help, you all have given me some great ideas!!
what is the best place to stay in denali national park? or would you recommend staying just outside the park?

This is OT but Repete's list and others got me to thinking about my top 10, based on years of living in Alaska and working all over the place. They're more "top ten experiences - only in Alaska" rather than recommendations for visitors. So personal and self-indulgent, forgive me. But maybe visitors can get a little sense of what makes it such a special place.

1. Flying from Anchorage to Cantwell (native village just south of Mt McKinley) in a Bonanza in the dead of winter (it was around -20° at Cantwell when we landed.) The mountain just got bigger and bigger until it filled the windshield of the plane. The whole sky was mountain.

2. (a) Getting nudged by a Bowhead whale while we were fishing in a 14 foot Smokercraft with a 20hp JohnRude outboard a mile off the rocks at St George Island in the Pribilofs. Like having a submarine come up to say howdy. (b) Getting nudged through the tent wall by a brown bear while we were camping on Upper Russian Lake on a fly-in fishing trip. In the morning we looked around and found paw prints the size of dinner plates. I believe my digestive system returned to normal about a week later.

3. Having dinner with a bunch of native folk in Noorvik up the Kobuk - Caribou jerky, lots of talk, and just enough beer.

4. Taking the Matanuska (state ferry) up the Inside Passage in January. State of grace sliding past the silent mountains and snowy cedars.

5. Watching the Aurora from a friend's house overlooking Turnagain Arm near Indian. Did you know that the Gaelic words for the Northern Lights translate as "the dancing men?"

6. Sitting on the "beach" of the Arctic Ocean in Kotzebue, watching the sun not set. At all.

7. Boating a 12-pound Rainbow (really) on the Kenai somewhere below Skilak. Turned him (her?) loose to go make more mutant Rainbows.

8. Miners and Trappers Ball at Fur Rondy, Anchorage.

9. Discovering a hidden cache of 120-year old dual language (Aleut-Slavonic) prayer book/hymnals in a locked closet in the beautiful Orthodox church in Unalaska in the Aleutians. The books contained a dedication by Bishop Veniaminoff, who was later Sainted by the church. Stopped our hearts.

10. Panning gold at an acquaintance's claim on the El Dorado Creek just up the Klondike from Dawson. About an ounce per pan. OMG, now I know what "gold fever" is.

By all means see the natural wonders, the wildlife, the scenery. But don't forget the people part of the picture - the history, the cultures, the remarkable stories of survival and adaptation that are also on offer.

Great post Gardylou! While visiting the Pratt Museum in Homer I overheard another visitor telling a museum volunteer that he had planned to move to Alaska in the 60s but didn't and has always wondered what his life would have been like. Sounds like he might have missed a whole lot.

Oh, wow, Gardyloo! You could write a great book based on your experiences. Thank you for sharing!

ttt for ljv

ttt for Nutty

topping for those planning 07 & 08 trips

I don't understand why anyone would ttt a year-old post. If someone wants to find this info they can do a fodors search.