Scarlett goes to Savannah
 

The Yankee and I thought we would take advantage of a pup sitter and take off for a couple of days.
We decided on Savannah.
Would anyone like to recommend restaurants? I saw a Bistro that looked good, but I would prefer personal recommendations.
I am making lists of museums and historic homes, etc..if anyone wants to add a favorite, please do!
Thanks a lot ((F))

Oh Scarlett, maybe I will run into you there. We are going there next week. When are you going?
I too would love additional names of reccomedned restaurants!! For me it would be just lunch as we are just there for the day!!!
Hope you have a Fabulous time!!!

The Pink House!

My sister and I, and our families, love River House, the Shrimp Factory, and especially Lady & Sons. But she just tried Telford's.......... where she had the grits cakes to die for, and now she can't wait to go back!

I have been told to have a praline as soon as I get there :)

Scarlett, eat your praline from the samples poured out on the counter for you to try! They're never as good again as they are when they're just cooling on that counter! Eat one for "moi.":-)

bonnie- I think before the weekend is over, I will have tasted a praline for all of my friends ~
Should we take a tour of the homes or just wander on our own? We have so little time, I want to see as much as possible.

Scarlett, you must go out to Bonaventure Cemetery........... do a carriage ride around the squares............ It's all so neat. I have toured all the historic homes, I believe. This last time we did the Mercer House (from *Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil*)... I enjoyed all of them, so just pick a couple that sound interesting and save the others for another trip. If you truly love old-fashioned Southern cooking, you want to go to Lady & Sons for lunch. We always eat at the River House, right on the water, one night (have that Chatham Artillery Punch) and then do the walkway along the water looking at the lights. There are neat shops along the riverfront so check'em out! If I think of something else, I will post more....... I'm jealous!:-)

Scarlett, you will love Savannah! Bring lots of film for your camera. You will need it because there is so much lovliness in that city you will want to capture it all.

Where are you staying? We've stayed at the Old Harbour Inn on Factor's Walk and liked it very much. Breakfast in the morning and cocktail hour in the evening--wonderful!

Here's a website for you to look at for basic information about finding a tour you like. We always go on a tour when we're new to a city. It orients us and gives us a good idea of what we want to get a second look at afterwards. The website is http://savannahgeorgia.com. You're spoiled for choice in Savannah when it comes to tours.

Our favorite museum (don't miss this one!) is the house museum Owens-Thomas House on Abercorn Street. The house is very grand and there's a nice courtyard garden tucked away behind it, as well as a gift shop.

If you want to sample some real Southern food, you know what kind I mean--adds ten pounds to your body just by looking at it and makes your cholesterol rise before you take a bite, and is so delicious you can hardly stand it--then visit the famous Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room on Jones Street. If you take a look at the website (www.mrswilkes.com) you will see the menu. Will you be in Savannah on Friday? Mrs. Wilkes is closed on Saturday and Sunday. The food is served "boarding house" style so you'll be seated at a long table with lots of other people. It is so much fun talking to other visitors! The atmosphere is really homey and friendly.

Have you read Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil? The statue on the cover of the book, The Bird Girl, is now at the Telfair Museum of Art on Barnard Street if you want to visit.

Our two favorite squares (hard choice to make) are Forsyth Park with its beautiful fountain, and Monterey Square. But try to see them all!

You will love, love, love Savannah. I wish I were there this weekend!!

We are staying at the Hyatt.
I don't know if we will be there for Friday dinner, but we will try to go to Mrs Wilkes if we do.
The museum will be one of our first stops.
I thought we might book one of the Carriage tours.
City Market galleries and shops.
So much to see, I bet the Yank will want to move there :)

One more thing, Scarlett....... we have stayed at the Gastonian (amazing), and the Hyatt Regency right on the water, (and a Comfort Inn this last time because they would accept the pooch).

My sister's favorite place is the Mulberry Inn, one street back from the water, I believe, where they have afternoon tea for the guests, and I think, cocktails and snackies in the evening before dinner.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh... Savannah - how sweet it is!:-)

Scarlett, when are you going?
I, too, loved that book, )a true story)
I read the house draws oogling tourists.
Have a great time and hope to see pictures.
I'm glad you didn't title this ,
Scarlett does Savannah :)

Hi Scarlett...I only have a couple of seconds this morning, but will start with some ideas.

Yes, do a trolley tour to get the broad picture and a bit of the history first, then go back and walk on your own. I drew up a walking tour for someone a few months back which you might be able to find by clicking on my name. That really is the best way to get a feel for the city. Although you'll want to see River St...spend the least amount of time there. The essence of the city is in the squares back from the river.

There is one art museum, the Telfair, which is pretty nice, if small. There isn't much in the line of art galleries despite SCAD, but the house museums are great. dln's favorite is mine also, Owens-Thomas. The renovation wasn't complete while we were there, but that made it better for me...you could see what they had to bring it back from, what time, heat and humidity had done, and it was pretty amazing! Green Meldrim is also a good tour, but that house is all perfection.

Mrs Wilkes is only open for breakfast and lunch and closed weekends so I'm afraid you'll miss that this trip..but you are only two hours away...you can go again, and again. Lady and Sons is good for lunch though. Elizabeth's or Pink House for evening dining $$$$. Saphire Grill is good too. Elizabeths you'll have to drive to...in an old mansion with the dining room in the various rooms (Pink House is also like that), but it's not in a good area. Still...if you can get in, that's where I'd go. It's only about 1.5-2 miles from the Hyatt and easy to find, just south of Forsyth Park on 37th St (natch). That is the best in town still. Pink House has the same ambience. Il Pasticcio is only a few blocks from the hotel down Bull St--if they are still doing lunch...it's a good place for it. If you are in the mood for very casual, then the Crab Shack which I've described numerous times before. It's been found, so not as great as it once was. It's grown and now even has need for those dratted flashing coasters that call you when your table is ready. :( Some of the feel is gone with that and it is a haul out there (on the way to Tybee) when you only have a couple of days anyway.

Out of time...more later...

Hi Miz Scarlett 8-) On our one night in Savannah on the way to Fla., we happened in on Bistro Savannah. It was good and felt a little like a Soho NYC restaurant (if you're feelin' homesick). High ceilings, big space, red and red brick walls and lots of art hanging. It was even in an area of town that was reclaimed warehouses (at least that's what it looked like). Good but not IMO great.

Found this website that might be helpful.
http://www.ourcoast.com/attractions/

Have a fun time.

Scarlett-if you haven't read it already, do get a copy of "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil" to read while you are there.

OliveOyl, I agree with you that the essence of Savannah is in the squares......... but you need that dash of River Street for a little bit of (slightly) tacky, seedy waterfront experience while you're there! We usually reserve one night while we're there to eat at River House, checking out the shops before hand, then walk and look at the lights on the water afterward.

We canceled our reservations at Elizabeth's on 37th years ago, when they'd had two murders in the parking lot in a month...... and the Gastonian didn't bother to tell us about this, when they recommended the restaurant and made reservations for us. That was a long time ago, and I imagine the neighborhood has improved since then, because everybody goes there and raves about it. We must try again......

I think it's good to go to the Visitor's Center, and see the film about Savannah when you first arrive........ I find I always enjoy and appreciate a city more if I do that! I predict you'll go back many times, Miz Scarlett...........:-)

One of my favorite areas is Forsysthe Park........ we were there when the Snapple guy's daughter was married there. WOW! What a show............:-) Everything looked so beautiful!

Hi Scarlet...I think you and your Yankee will love Savannah! I went about 10 years ago with the girlfriends and we loved it, still talk about it, and are even threatening a return visit!

Here's what I recall as highlights of that trip:
We stayed at the Mulberry Inn (I recall it used to be a Coca-Cola plant). As another poster mentioned, tea in the afternoons and a pianist too. Good location, great concierge.

We all read "The Book" (Midnight in the Garden of Good & Evil) prior to our visit then did The Book tour which included Bonaventure Cemetery & Telfair Museum and other locales from the book.

We ate at Mrs. Wilkes for lunch and the Pink House (I believe for dinner)both of which I recommend. We also ate at a wonderful seafood place but can't remember the name of it...happens often at my age!

I've since discovered The Lady & Sons(addicted to her show & cookbooks) and a meal there will be a must when we return.

We also did an historic bus tour and saw some lovely homes. But after 10 years, my favorite memory remains just wandering around the squares and the wonderful ambiance of that lovely city.

Hope you all have a great time!

... Elizabeth's on 37th, and you must make a reservation. It is the best in Savannah. And ignore any remarks about safety - it's fine.

... Sapphire at 110 West Congress (easy walk from Hyatt) is nice as well, and when you call to reserve, ask to be seated on the first floor, but not too near the bar. 912-443-9962.

... another to consider, Bistro Savannah at 309 West Congress - 912-233-6266. Very frinedly, great service and very nice food.

... the cemetery suggested is a must, as is simply walking around the historic area. It is safe. Certainly see SCAD's gallery, a very fine art school. Forsyth Park is a must as well.

... and you'll want to avoid a drive to Tybee Island, you don't want to waste your brief hours in a jam!!!

... and take your humidity pills, LOL.

When you get to the Hyatt (if not before) definitely tell them you would prefer a CORNER room which will give you a head-on view of the river as well as an either upriver or downriver view...believe me, these rooms are worth it and usually don't cost any extra.

Scarlett,

We have had fun lunches twice at a little seafood-and-beer place called Bernie's. (There is a picture of a Saint Bernard outside--I guess that's Bernie).

It's a good place for peel-your-own shrimp, etc., and is located on the river.

Byrd

Bonnie...I was there for that wedding too. Not an invited guest..ha ha, but neither was John Berendt who was standing near us on Whittaker St as we watched the drama unfold in the park. I asked him if this might be the theme for his next book. :) The set-up for the wedding was almost unbelievable, wasn't it? It took weeks for them to do (that was part of my running route and it was closed off after a certain point). Some people have musicians play in their ceremony--they had the Savannah Symphony Orchestra, and that was just the beginning.

Re Elizabeths...there weren't any murders there while we lived there (we moved here 7 years ago and lived there 4), so I'm wondering if this is something recent? There was a shooting in their parking lot while we lived there--a guest was shot in the stomach, but he didn't die (small comfort). After that episode they put security in the parking lot. We normally parked on the street and were vigilant. It's an institution there, as Commanders Palace is to New Orleans...unfortunately both restaurants in less than stellar settings, but both have survived despite because they are excellent. The building is a beautiful old mansion (where they also live) and the herbs used in the food preparation are growing as part of the landscaping all around their home/restaurant. Cool place.

I agree too, you have to see River St., but some never get much beyond it and that is not where you get to experience the beauty of the city. The buildings, although many house tacky tourist shops now, are genuine and historic--old cotton warehouses etc. I think it's best to walk the other side of the street, riverside rather than shop-side and cross over if you see something of interest. It's less crowded and the buildings are pretty, but you can't see much of them walking the sidewalk alongside them. I think because I lived right there and had seen it, it was an area that I then avoided. Our roof top patio overlooked it, and although it was fun to watch from a distance, that was usually about as close as I went! I did like the Greek restaurant next to the back of the hotel there..Olympic House or something, and when the Summer Olympics (yachting events) came to town, they tried to make them change the name of the restaurant...a name they'd had for years!

OK...more stuff...you MUST go to E. Shavers bookstore in Madison Square just behind the Hilton, northeast corner of Harris and Bull. It's a neat bookstore...the lower level of their house so small little rooms filled with the most interesting books, including of course, plenty on Savannah. That is also the place for all the latest in gossip...browse near the cash register and you'll hear it all. E Shaver is a big player in downtown politics and maintaining integrity of the historic district. She was instrumental in getting the big tour buses out of the historic district...very positive, but was at times considered a bit "too too". She hadn't changed an iota last time we were there, same black hair severely pulled back into a bun. Her DH looks like Colonel Sanders...always in a coat and tie. Anway...if there's any good dirt to be had in town, that's the place to pick it up. We looked at the townhouse to the right of E Shavers when we first moved there and thought we would be buying. It looks old, but was a teardown and rebuild (by E Shaver's husband) so you had the benefit of appearing old, but all the new plumbing and wiring and materials. It was a mere $300,000+ then...another real estate deal passed up! :(

There is an antique store at the southwest corner of Monterey Square...in an old house that sides on Bull St and Gordon. You usually have to ring to get in and he's very loosey goosey with his hours, but it's worth a look because a lot of the shop IS his house. Forgotten the name of the shop now...his name...Alex something-or-other..Raskin maybe. The other good antique shops are tucked inconspicuously in various squares and some large but (then) so-so ones on Broughton St.

How many days do you have?? :D After you've done this, you'll have to do Charleston, only two hours further up the road, then come back and tell us which you like better.

Scarlett, that's an excellent suggestion to get a room with a view! We always like sitting outside on Factor's Walk and watching the big freighters go by. I've always wanted to go on a freighter cruise and since the dear husband laughs at the very suggestion, watching them trawl by in Savannah is about as close as I'll get. It really is something to see.

The more I think about it, the more I think the Olympic Committee <i>was</i> successful in making them change their name--they were/are pretty powerful and we were such a small town and in such awe of what was happening. They painted over the c in Olympic and made it an a, Olympia Cafe. Not that that's important, lol, just a bit of local trivia.

We've been to Savannah on our own, but the last time I was there with 200 eighth graders! We did have a great time, but one place that stood out was the First African Baptist Church. There is a woman there who will do a tour, and she is incredibly passionate about the church and very interesting. I wish I had more detail for you, such as her name, but I wasn't involved in the planning. Have a great time!!

... additional thoughts: if you'll be there only 1-2 days, residents would advise you bypass the touristy regions along the river (instead look down from your room), unless you wish to join the tourists, in which case, flat soles to deal with the cobble stones ... and instead head a few blocks down Bay and step down to Congress Street. Great for a Saturday afternoon stroll, some time in their galleries and a nice, relaxed lunch featuring a glass of merlot, and just a sense of relaxed, satisfying ambience.

Now, if Lady Chablis is or isn't in town, hit her club (near Congress naturally) for a truly amazing show, but dress glamarously, the competition is rather awesome, lol, and fun, for the more liberated. And afterward, downstairs they host a great place to demonstrate those dance moves you've been dying to show off!! Don't be surpirsed if you end up doing a slow hustle with someone in briefs and combat boots. It's the Savannah way, and will add some pizzazz to that posting upon your return.

In any event, do have a ball!

Scarlett, you will love the Hyatt! The location is stellar and I've walked all over Savannah from there.

Even though it's touristy, I agree with going to see Lady Chablis at either Club One or Club Zero. I can never remember the name but it is only 5 or 6 blocks to the hotel.

I've taken both my husband and my gay boyfriend there and my husband enjoyed it and my gay boyfriend thought Lady Chablis was trashy. Jealous maybe?

Another fun thing that sticks out in my mind was the time we did the Haunted Pub Tour at night. Really neat old bars.

OK, lists are piling up, you all are SO GREAT!
Thank you, bonnie, mclaurie,Byrd,TopMan,anne,Cassandra,1scs1,GoTravel , ((L))
Chatham Artillery Punch, sounds good..
The Yankee is rolling his eyes every time I tell him about sightseeing at a Cemetary..sigh..sometimes Yankees just don't get it LOL
Bernies sounds good..
OO, you should work for the Savannah Visitors Assoc..you are GOOD~
dln, thank you too!
I will try to see every single square, it sounds so wonderfully genteel :) all those squares and the water and lovely homes.

Thank you Blacktie, for the phone numbers with the recommendations!
I am not sure if we will get to see Lady Chablis but I will do my best to do something worthy of a travel report~

My daughter tells me that this will just make me want to go to Charleston~

OliveOyl, I think you are probably right........ maybe it was two SHOOTINGS, not two murders. (Scary as h***, either way.) And it would have been while you were there, not recently. I think what happened was that there had been a shooting IN THEIR PARKING LOT a couple of weeks before we got there, then a couple of days before we arrived, there was a shooting in a yard RIGHT NEXT to their parking lot. Anyway, it all added up to a very unsavory area to park in/leave from in the dark. We talked to local people in the shops who said, while the restaurant was outstanding, the area was BAD, and they wouldn't go there after dark. I'm sure it must have vastly improved, safety-wise, by now or else you'd hear about it. But at that time, it was dicey......... I'll try it next time we go....

Yes, we always walk on the street right beside the water, my DH takes pictures of the Westin lights on the water, etc. You know, there's just nothing about Savannah that I don't like, is the thing!:-)

Now, Scarlett, DO GO to The Lady &amp; Sons....... it rocks!!! I've stood right beside Paula at the buffet, and her sons, if they're there, are dolls! Have a blast!

LOL, cigale, Scarlett does Savannah should be the title of the Trip Report :D


I called the hotel, there is an additional charge to have a river view room, since it is over $400, I will be content to walk over to the view.

Thanks to all above posters - read every word since son will be student at SCAD starting in September - maybe I will have something to add to Savannah inquiries after a few trips.

How many nights Scarlett? There are a few room types--one looks toward Bay Street, one looks toward the river and the other looks into the atrium with no exterior windows other than sliders onto a small balcony overlooking the atrium. I'd try to avoid those.

If you won't be in your room much, Bay St view (actually, all you see are the tops of the big oak trees) is OK, though being able to see the river while you are in the room would be wonderful. The river traffic is something to behold--ocean going ships steaming past, so tall their bridges passed our windows on the top floor.

I just looked at their website and gosh those rates are high for this time of year. I wonder if something is going on? Perhaps, because you said that other places were booked.

I can show you on that website where we lived too. The very top left side of the hotel has 5 windows in a row, all brightly lit. That was our suite...and our roof top patio extends out from that, the roof of the floor below. That picture was one they did while we were still there so if you can blow it up, you'll see us happily playing at home, mixing a mean batch of margaritas perhaps! :)

The hotel got new owners around the first of the year or so. They plan a major renovation and I hope it's been done, although I doubt there has been time. Those are normally long protracted ordeals from planning to implementation.

Bonnie, I doubt it has improved too much--it had a long way to go, but it didn't stop us. Yup, dicey, but it was an isolated incident and people went day in day out without a problem--don't let it stop you on your next visit. It is a terrific restaurant.

Lady Chablis...lol...I have to agree with GoTravel's bf!! She's a something!! (Club One). It used to be separated...upstairs was mixed couples, downstairs was gay. Don't know if it still holds. Lady Chablis was only there about once a month. We were glad we saw the show, but once you've seen it...no need to do that again! :)

Sapphire Grill that Blacktie mentions, it was usstairs you wanted to reserve if possible, not down. We've made our plans too late so have never made it upstairs, but down was nice, if loud.

OO..we got a B&amp;B package, breakfast,valet parking,free phone calls and tax (12% included..we are going to be there tomorrow evening..so 2 nights..
I will now go look at the site and see where you lived :)
Thank you all~

Scarlett, you will love Savannah! We followed OliveOyls' recommendations and had a wonderful time. Our favourite house to tour was Owens-Thomas House . We loved it.
We ate dinner at the Pink House, Make sure you reserve well ahead of time.
Do the trolley tour first , to get a feel for the lay of the land. We also did a haunted ghost walk in the evening and really enjoyed it... well, we really enjoyed everything!
Hope you do too!!!

The Pink House.
Period.
It's my favorite restaurant in Savannah and one of my favorites ever. I've entertained there a lot (on expense accounts) and everyone has raved afterwards. The bisque is to die for. So are the crab cakes. Ditto the shrimp and grits. When I go on my own $$$ I've often just ordered several appetizers to share - all are fabulous. The entrees are all delicious, but save room for the praline basket thingamagig - even if you have to share!
The walking tour that meets in Monterey Square is fabulous (can't remember the name). The trolley and horse-cart tours are good...just like the sound of the clip-clop in Savannah and Charleston. The pralines on River Street are fabulous (although I've been disappointed in the River Street shops in recent years).
Enjoy Savannah...I'm jealous!

Scarlett, I can't wait to hear about your trip;
I've never been to Savannah but I did spend 2 days in Charleston; heavenly shopping, I'm trying to remember this lovely boutique on a street corner, also a fab shoe store. We ate at a Relais and Chateau hotel's restaurant, Peninsula Grill so maybe there is a R&amp;C hotel in Savannah, in which case their restaurant would be fantastic, so check it out....
I almost consider you an honorary montrealer now, Scarlett..., lol......

Scarlett, there is a nice terrace off one of the ballrooms that has a great view of the city and the river.

If you are facing the hotel and the river is behind the hotel, this terrace is on the right.

Also, there is some sort of terrace open to the public that is nice and large and has great views of the river than the Westin across the river.

Have tons of fun! I love Savannah and would love to live there!

You are ALL the BEST !!!

Thank you SO MUCH!

Mitch-I would be honored to be any kind of Montrealer :D

I will take photos and notes and tell you all about it next week. I will try to shop and eat everywhere, for the sake of you all..la, what I do for my friends~
TTFN ((F))

TTT for &quot;mcfarm&quot;

I visited Savannah &amp; Charleston in November of 2002 and fell in love with both cities. Am going back to visit in September. Only thing: am I the only one totally freaked out by the sheer number of cockroaches that run the streets of Savannah at night? My husband and I were on one og the &quot;Ghost Tours&quot; and the tour guide mentioned something about breeding season in November. Is it just a seasonal thing?

sharonmb, I saw the dead roaches or waterbugs along River St. I figured it was because of the water and garbage from all the restaurants.
But yes, it does freak one out :(