Fodor's Travel Talk Forums

Fodor's Travel Talk Forums (https://www.fodors.com/community/)
-   United States (https://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/)
-   -   San Francisco as a base for Yosemite? (https://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/san-francisco-as-a-base-for-yosemite-1084193/)

bobbiegregg Jan 17th, 2016 07:39 PM

San Francisco as a base for Yosemite?
 
Planning a trip to San Francisco with just my husband. If I only have 3 days is a day trip to Yosemite worth it. We are going to go to sequoia National Park for 3 nights then to Hearst castle and up the cost to San Francisco. We only have 2-3 nights in San Francisco and want to see Alcatraz. We chose sequoia national over Yosemite since the sequoia groves in Yosemite are closed until 2017. It is likely to be our one and only trip to California. What are the must sees in San Francisco and is a rental car heading to Yosemite to tiring. I have points for hotels and the closest one to Yosemite in the one I can choose from are in Modesto. I could spend one night there go to Yosemite and then to SanFrancisco for the next 2 nights but that is a lot of Road time. Is that route scenic. We do like car rides. Any views?

marvelousmouse Jan 17th, 2016 09:17 PM

I'd say unless you can stay in the park skip Yosemite. And even then, I might say skip Yosemite. Alcatraz pretty much wipes out half a day. The drive between SF and Yosemite is not very quick- a day trip would not be worth it at all to me. The last bit of road is windy and narrow. I found the trip tiring. I did 3 nights at Yosemite- if I did that drive again, I'd probably do minimum 4.


A possibility (maybe) would be to skip sequoia and substitute in Yosemite. Go to the Muir Woods as a day trip from SF (home to coastal redwoods- related to sequoias, just taller and skinnier). Mostly suggesting this because there is just so much more to Yosemite than the sequoias, and I hate recommending to anyone to skip it:)

marvelousmouse Jan 17th, 2016 09:20 PM

Forgot to say- SF is worth at least 3 nights. I did 5 and still didn't get to see everything I had planned. So I don't know about must sees- but I'd divide your time equally between city and park.

janisj Jan 17th, 2016 09:56 PM

>>We chose sequoia national over Yosemite since the sequoia groves in Yosemite are closed until 2017.<<

IMO (having been to YNP at least 10 times and SNP 3 times) I would definitely 100% choose Yosemite over Sequoia. And since you need to base in the SF area Yosemite makes a LOT more sense than Sequoia/Kings Canyon. Sequoia is great -- but Yosemite is absolutely iconic and one of the most famous natural wonders in the world.

>> I have points for hotels and the closest one to Yosemite in the one I can choose from are in Modesto.<<

Absolutely <B><red>HORRIBLE</B></red> idea. Modesto is an arm pit. And Modesto to Yosemite Valley is a three hour drive each way.

In your short time frame I;d do 2 nights in Yosemite (or in El Portal if you can't get into YNP), 2 nights on the coast divided between Cambria and Carmel/Monterey, and whatever time you have left - in San Francisco.

soccertribe Jan 18th, 2016 07:31 AM

I used to live in SF (man I miss it!). There is so much to do in and around SF and you have only a few days. I would recommend making Yosemite a separate trip. The place is truly magical and requires a few days to soak it all in. Most of the drive from SF is boring and you'd lose so much of your trip in the car. If you're more interested in nature do some trips like Muir Woods, hike the Marin headlands, lots of beaches, etc. Bike riding in wine country is fun too but don't do it on the weekends when it is very congested. Skip the touristy city sites like Union and Ghiradelli Squares, the warf, etc. If you feel the need to take a cable car grab it on California street instead of the main tourist route down by Union Sq. Pacific Heights is a gorgeous neighborhood, Filmore St has cool shops and restaurants...the Presidio....so much to do!

tomfuller Jan 18th, 2016 08:58 AM

If and only if I could get a room at the Yosemite Lodge I would use Amtrak to avoid driving all the way to Yosemite from San Francisco.
How to do it: Amtrak bus #6612 leaves Fisherman's Wharf at 6:50AM. Bus takes about 40 minutes to the Emeryville station where you transfer to the #712 San Joaquin to Merced arriving about 10:33AM. The YARTS bus leaves at 11AM (designated as Amtrak 8412). You arrive at the Yosemite Lodge about 1:25PM. The price for 2 adults one way as about $76. The YARTS bus stops at El Portal if you can only get a room there. You can pay the YARTS bus driver when you get on the bus for the ride.
I agree with janisj about Modesto. If you are on that tight a lodging budget, don't spend much time in San Francisco.

bobbiegregg Jan 18th, 2016 09:32 AM

Thank you all for your replies. Would a east coast southern girl be impressed with Muir Redwoods? Our Number one reason for choosing California is the redwoods, but then after looking at the state there is so much more to awe anyone. Big Sur slowly topped my must dos. But then the fog. I saw pictures with the fog and it still looks amazing. June is the month I will be coming and I'll pray the fog lifts for part of the day we travel Hwy 1. I have 7 nights in all and was planning on sequoia for half but it is sounding like I would have a better trip planning the entire time in or near San Francisco. But still Muir? don't know much about it?

tomfuller Jan 18th, 2016 10:08 AM

If you're going across the Golden Gate bridge anyway, go to see Muir Woods. You may find too many people for your liking but they are amazing Coast Redwoods. With only 7 days, I would not spend the time to go inland to See the Giant Sequoias in the Sierras.
There are large Coast Redwoods south of San Francisco. Check out Butano State Park and others.
By all means, see Big Sur and the town of Monterey.
Cannery Row and the Aquarium are the big attractions in Monterey.

marvelousmouse Jan 18th, 2016 10:22 AM

Well, if you are driving Big Sur, that does change things. Skip Yosemite entirely. It takes more than one day to drive Big Sur. Do 3 nights on the coast in different spots, 4 nights SF, and yes, I think you'd enjoy Muir Woods. Coastal redwoods are amazing- Muir Woods are old growth redwoods that have amazingly been left not far at all from SF. Where are you flying in? If possible, consider flying into LAX and doing the trip one way- LA to SF.

There are so many amazing things in CA, but you're not accounting for driving times and you just don't have enough days for everything.

For Yosemite- SF- Coast- I think that's about 10 days, and that's pretty rushed.

janisj Jan 18th, 2016 10:35 AM

Coastal redwoods - the REALLY tall ones, and Giant Sequoias - the REALLY Big/'fat' ones . . . are different species and grow in entirely different regions/climates.

Trust me, an east coast southern girl would be VERY impressed by either. But I would not bother w/ Muir Woods. There are Redwoods in Big Sur and in the Santa Cruz mountains that are nicer stands in parks that don't get a fraction the crowds of Muir Woods.

IMO/IME you do not have enough time to even consider Sequoia/Kings Canyon. If you can stretch the trip by a day or two then you <i>could</i> fit in Yosemite, Carmel/Big Sur/Coastal Redwoods, and San Francisco. But if you are limited to 7 nights I'd just do SF and Carmel/Big Sur and do some walking/hiking at Point Lobos and the two 'Pfeiffer parks' in Big Sur, and maybe squeeze in an afternoon at Big Basin.

bobbiegregg Jan 18th, 2016 10:43 AM

Thank you so much I think I will change my plans to include the coastal Redwoods and San Francisco. I plan to fly into LA and out of SF. My Husband and I plan to rent a car in LA and then drive to Hearst castle spend and night nearby. The next day we plan to head up the coast. How long should I allow for the drive up Hwy 1 to Big Sur and should we stay on Hwy 1 all the way to SF? If so How long for that and where to stop for the night if needed? Can you drive from Hearst up Hwy 1 to SF in a day? Our trip is in June/fog, so is the drive doable and worthy. Pictures look amazing with or without fog.

janisj Jan 18th, 2016 10:48 AM

>>My Husband and I plan to rent a car in LA and then drive to Hearst castle spend and night nearby. <<

Not after a cross country flight I hope. You'd want to break up that drive -- It is over 5 hours from LAX to San Simeon.

It sounds like you haven't booked the flights yet - right? If so, I'd fly in and out of SFO and forget LAX.

bobbiegregg Jan 18th, 2016 10:57 AM

Janisj, I haven't booked the flight. And the distance vs time here is very different from there (at least that's the impression i'm getting. Isn't it closer from LAS to San Simeon? What route would you take from SF to Hearst? Would you drive Hwy 1 twice? Help, I'm out of my comfort zone on this.

marvelousmouse Jan 18th, 2016 11:06 AM

Don't do the drive in one day. It's really a pull over every few miles for a view point and there's so much to see.


Sample itinerary:
I'd stay the 1st night in Santa Barbara- depending on when you fly in, I think you'll want some "just in case" time for traffic or other delays, and Santa Barbara Mission is definitely on my must see list.

Then get an early start. Stop at Hearst Castle, see the elephant seals. Drive to Big Sur- go to Pfeiffer state park. At that point it'll be night time. You don't want to drive further in the dark. Stay somewhere on big sur- I stayed at Ragged Point Inn, which may not be far enough for you, but has amazing views. Ragged Point Inn is about where the road gets really windy, and although I'm used to windy- in the fog and dark it was just too risky. Also- ragged point was my only unplanned stop for the night on the month long trip and it's one of my best memories- seeing big Sur in the early morning was just amazing.

Third night Carmel. Even if you have no interest in aquariums, the town, cypress trees and 17 mile drive are worth at least a half day. (But go to the aquarium anyway- it's very good).

Finish driving to SF. Santa Cruz boardwalk is a fun stop. Devils Slide is a good hike.

janisj Jan 18th, 2016 11:16 AM

>>(at least that's the impression i'm getting. Isn't it closer from LAS to San Simeon? <<


Assuming you mean LA<B>X</B> -- no. Using 101 it is about 3.5 hours from SFO to San Simeon (and only about 3 hours to Cambria where there are good places to stay for San Simeon/Hearst Castle) . . . Then for the rest of your itinerary you could drive back north via hwy 1 through Big Sur, Carmel, Monterey and to SF.

janisj Jan 18th, 2016 11:18 AM

Re marvelousmouse's itinerary - it would work . . . I'd just personally avoid the whole LAX/LA basin/southern coast looooooong haul and fly in/out of SFO

marvelousmouse Jan 18th, 2016 11:28 AM

Should also say that my post is assuming hwy 1 is something you want to experience. If not- then I'd encourage you to just skip Hearst entirely. It's pretty cool- but I really don't think it's "10 hour detour" cool.

To answer your question-

Google maps says 4 h 51 minutes if you go Lax to Hearst castle. That's the coastal route. 4 and half in land. And that's not accounting for traffic or getting the rental or grabbing food or bathroom breaks. So let's say easily 7 hours from touchdown to Hearst. It could be more- no one knows with la traffic. That doesn't sound fun after a flight.

Then google say 4 hours from SFO (inland) to Hearst Castle. People moan a lot about LA traffic but I actually spent more time waiting in traffic in the Bay Area. I think it's about the same amount of time, and you'd want to go down 101 south and back up north on 1. I don't think you'd make Hearst on the first day ( I don't see how) and you really need a a full day to drive Big Sur. I think no matter if you go in one airport and out the other, or if you go in and out only SFO- the trip is still at least 2 nights however you slice it. Flying into LAX and out of SFO just gives you more time to sightsee.

marvelousmouse Jan 18th, 2016 11:38 AM

Now I see what you are getting at janisj! I was thinking since they haven't been to CA they'd enjoy the whole stretch. And Santa Barbara was one of my favorite stops. But I liked the missions more than Hearst.

I don't know, if it were up to me, I'd bag it entirely for Yosemite. Big Sur is beautiful, but Hearst Castle isn't worth the 8 hour trip in my opinion. I want to return to a lot of the places, but I'd settle for just Yosemite in California.

janisj Jan 18th, 2016 11:42 AM

>>Flying into LAX and out of SFO just gives you more time to sightsee.<<

I don't understand that (at all)

I avoid google maps for drive times. But yes -- there can be bad congestion in the South Bay/Silicon Valley just like in LA. SFO to Cambria is typically about 3 or 3.5 hours.

LAX to Cambria would take 4-5 hours via fast/butt ugly I-5 and about 5 hours via 101 (one should allow for traffic through the LA basin, San Fernando Valley, Oxnard/Ventura and Santa Barbara).

marvelousmouse Jan 18th, 2016 12:00 PM

What I mean is: you are driving more on the coast going one way. More chances to see new stuff. If you do it round trip- half your driving time is boring. (It probably only makes sense in my head. Never mind.)

I was really lucky traffic wise before Hearst castle. North of Hearst Castle, I encountered several delays, and that's probably coloring my impressions. But if you're a tourist in a new place, you're not usually driving straight through anyway. Unless the OP has more self restraint than I do- I have no self restraint whatsoever when it comes to stopping at every interesting spot.

Christina Jan 18th, 2016 12:02 PM

When I did a similar trip, I flew into Burbank, not LAX. It was cheaper to rent a car there, also, than LAX. Then I drove to Santa Barbara from the airport, that's not bad at all if you get there at a reasonable time of day. It's only about a two hour drive. So I'd check your options for Burbank.

For the drive up the coast, I stopped in Cambria in-between Santa Barbara and Monterey, where I stayed a few days. I did visit Hearst Castle while I was staying in Cambria, I think I was there 2 days.

jamie99 Jan 18th, 2016 12:04 PM

I'd take the 1 from LAX up through Malibu then cut over to the 101 around Oxnard, through Santa Barbara which I also love a lot and then Cambria. It is better to have two overnights on Highway 1, one night is doable but you would have to choose your stops carefully. Cannery Row is a big tourist trap but the Aquarium is worthwhile.

isabel Jan 21st, 2016 04:58 AM

I've done a couple trips to SF in the last few years. I did the Pacific Coast Highway/Hearst Castle and Yosemite on different trips but I did other things as well (visiting family) but you could do what I think would be a decent week long trip and do both. But even two extra days would help a lot if you could get it.

I would fly into SF and drive to Santa Cruz (about an hour) for the first night since you will be tired from the cross country flight. The next day drive the Pacific Coast Highway/Big Sur to Hearst Castle (lots of places to stop but reasonably done in a day). See Hearst Castle late in the afternoon (but make a reservation).

The next day drive to Yosemite (4-5 hours). Spend two nights there. The afternoon of the third day drive to SF (4 hours to the airport to drop car) and spend last 3 nights there.

With two extra days I'd put one in Yosemite and one in SF. Even then that's kind of the minimum but you would get a reasonable trip to those three great places.

Here's my trip reports. Might be something useful in them and there are links to the photos.

http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...oma-and-sf.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...-the-coast.cfm

scdreamer Jan 21st, 2016 01:50 PM

If you decide to head to Santa Cruz, it's about six (winding) miles up Hwy 9 to Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park, which is in Felton. Beautiful and huge redwood trees on the loop trail, and a very nice visitors' center. Much easier to get to than Big Basin State Park.

janisj Jan 21st, 2016 01:56 PM

That's true - I love Big Basin, but Henry Cowell is an easier 'get' for many visitors since it is so near Santa Cruz.

bobbiegregg Jan 22nd, 2016 05:45 PM

I found a lodging deal in Santa Cruz. If I based my trip from Santa Cruz is seeing Hearst and Big Sur doable. I could fly into San Francisco. Is it possible from Santa Cruz to have a day in San Francisco as well as see the coastal Red Woods.

janisj Jan 22nd, 2016 07:50 PM

I was posting when the site went down again . . . so I'll try again and paraphrase . . .

No you can't really use Santa Cruz as a base for Hearst Castle and Big Sur. Santa Cruz to San Simeon takes 3.5 to 4 hours down the coast through Big Sur and about 3 hours on 101 avoiding the coast. So driving one way on Hwy 1 and the other on 101 would take about 7 hours RT plus any tours at Hearst Castle and any stops in Big Sur . . . so a VERY long 12-15 hour days all together.

isabel Jan 23rd, 2016 04:24 AM

What do you mean a "lodging deal". There are plenty of lodging options in Santa Cruz, near Hearst Castle and in San Francisco. Why would you want to keep driving back and forth to the same place, wasting time on a trip that is already too short to really accomplish what you said you wanted to. If you just want to stay at a nice resort and enjoy the place then do that, but what you were asking was how to see several places (Big Sur, Hearst Castle, Yosemite and SF) in one trip. That is doable, but certainly not from one base. Look at a map. (or look at the responses above).

bobbiegregg Jan 23rd, 2016 05:21 AM

Thank you for all of your help. The lodging deal I referred to is that I have been given free lodging (X number of points) with one chain of hotels. If I stay in one location I the 5th night is no more points. To get the most from this gift, I need to stay in one location. I can move from hotel to hotel within this chain but the chain is limited along the coast and costly in san francisco. I am just trying to decide which is best. My husband an I both enjoy scenic rides, but no one likes congested traffic. So it is a hunch that maybe basing 1 1/2 hr from San Francisco is doable. Before researching for this trip I didn't realize I wanted to see San Francisco. I have always wanted to see the Redwoods but long hikes are not possible as my husband has a bad knee. Short easy 1 mile hikes are great. When I looked at Santa Cruz it seemed like they have a lot to do near there and maybe I could stay in San Francisco "out of pocket" for a night to fit in a few sites there. I'm not sure Hearst is doable round trip from santa cruz in a day, But seeing the coast and redwoods is my main goal. We own property on the Gulf of Mexico and would love to see the beaches on the Pacific. Still the Redwoods are our top must see. I have even thought of just going to see the northern most forrest and coast. It, however, seems like San Francisco and Big Sur may be the best choice. We have 8 children (one with special needs) and have this opportunity to take a trip alone. The decision is big, as the opportunity to leave the east coast area may not arise again. All of your information has been very helpful. I hope this clears up what I mean by "lodging deal".

janisj Jan 23rd, 2016 08:10 AM

Free is always good -- but free doesn't work if it isn't convenient to the places you want to go.

Having said that -- you can have a great few days just concentrating on the Santa Cruz area.

Big Sur is 'possible' from Santa Cruz -- it will take about an hour to Point Lobos (a must IMO) and about another hour to Julia Pfeiffer Burns SP. So that would be a long-ish but doable day trip. You'd be driving through Monterey -- but really wouldn't have time to stop, so another day trip could be Monterey/Carmel which is about an hour from Santa Cruz. Then you have Henry Cowell State Park right outside SC. And places like Aptos/Seacliff beach and Capitola which are just minutes from SC.

So of budget is an issue -- definitely take the free accommodations . . . but you will have to stay a night in SF to see the city. Or for your SF night consider staying in Millbrae -- it is near SFO, has several inexpensive hotels/motels, and is on BART so you can pop into the city. Staying IN San Francisco is better if you can afford it, but staying near SFO is definitely doable.

And enjoy your rare time alone . . .

jamie99 Jan 23rd, 2016 11:49 AM

You can easily see Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park near Santa Cruz. However I would not try and visit Hearst Castle from a base in Santa Cruz, too much driving on a very windy road. You will have to decide which is most important to you.

janisj Jan 23rd, 2016 11:58 AM

Oh - I hope my post was clear . . . yes, you <i>could</i> manage the Big Sur area as a day trip from SC, but squeezing in San Simeon really isn't doable.

bobbiegregg Jan 23rd, 2016 02:34 PM

Thank you janisj. I am thinking I will fly into Oakland (flight is $150 cheeper) rent a car and head into Santa Cruz for 5 nights. From there we will try to see Big Sur and other mentioned attractions. Then for nights 6-7 we will be in San Francisco where I plan to book an Alcatraz tour with Muir Woods & Sausalito. I am excited and think missing Hearst is sad but not wise on this trip. After all relaxing some would be nice. Thank you so much

janisj Jan 23rd, 2016 02:56 PM

That is a good plan . . . However -- I'd forget about Muir Woods. You will see much better stands of redwoods @ Henry Cowell and also some down in Big Sur. Muir Woods gets VERY crowded (they frequently have to close the parking area) and is over used. The main reason it is so busy isn't because it is the best park -- but because it is the closest to San Francisco.

So concentrate on redwoods while you are staying (for FREE :) ) in Santa Cruz, and use your limited San Francisco time for Alcatraz, maybe take the ferry to Tiburon or Sausalito and then to Angel Island. And exploring other bits of SF.

Just book your own tickets to Alcatraz -- don't combine it w/ a tour to Muir Woods. Big waste of time.

NorCalif Jan 24th, 2016 09:25 AM

Hi Bobbie -

Welcome to California! (when you get here)

I live in San Francisco and have a place in Santa Cruz, so go frequently between the 2 places. Just want to let you know that traffic on the normal route "over the hill" on Hwy. 17 can be very bad at rush hour on weekdays and also during the day on nice summer weekends. People live in Santa Cruz and commute to San Jose/Silicon Valley, so on week days rush hour traffic is from Santa Cruz in the mornings and towards Santa Cruz in the afternoon/evenings. The traffic on nice summer weekends is the opposite - it is towards Santa Cruz in the morning/lunchtime and then from Santa Cruz in the evening on Saturday/Sunday. When I say traffic can be bad at those times I mean it can add an hour or two or more to the normal 1 1/2 hours from Santa Cruz to SF - although at least you can be looking at thousands of redwood trees covering the Santa Cruz mountains and redwoods right next to the road while you sit there. ;-> Anyway it may make sense to take traffic-timing into consideration when you head to SF.

But enough of the traffic-downer talk, on to the sight-seeing!


Both Big Basin State Park and Henry Cowell State Park have taller trees than Muir Woods, with Big Basin having taller trees than Henry Cowell. Since you say redwoods are a primary interest, you could go to both Big Basin and Henry Cowell pretty easily. They are only half-an-hour drive apart on Hwy 9/236.

When you do the Big Sur drive, I would recommend driving as far south as Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. There is a short easy trail from a parking lot there to a beautiful overlook of a waterfall onto a beach. Stop at Nepenthe either on the way down or way back.

I would probably do Carmel/Monterey on a different day. The Monterey Aquarium is very worth seeing, IMO.

Hope you have a wonderful time!

howefortunate Jan 24th, 2016 07:40 PM

My opinion - Yosemite is the place you do NOT want to miss. It is truly spectacular. Make reservations well in advance to spend at least a night or two inside the park. It's over a 3 hour drive one way from San Francisco to Yosemite.

I would stay a few days in San Francisco, a few days in Yosemite, and if time head south to the Central Coast visiting Monterey and Carmel.

StuDudley Jan 24th, 2016 09:07 PM

Janisj

Your opinion would be welcome here:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...m#last-comment

See the last comments

Stu Dudley

janisj Jan 25th, 2016 07:41 AM

OMG Stu :)

I'd say 'unbelievable' - but it isn't considering the source.

I avoid responding to most of you know who's posts - she is a psycho.

StuDudley Jan 25th, 2016 07:57 AM

I agree. I'm not responding to her latest nonsense & contradictions.

Stu Dudley


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:14 AM.