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lenlu Oct 6th, 2006 10:03 AM

Relocation to Miami..Where to live?
 
Hi,
We are relocating to Miami but not for a few months and I'm doing some research on finding good areas in which to live for my family. We have two small boys so we'll need a good preschool, a safe neighborhood, possibly gated, not too far from downtown (within half an hour). Do people mostly go to private grade schools down there or are there some decent public schools outside the city? I'm honestly afraid to move from the Pacific NW I've been here so long. I'm having a hard time picturing my life in Florida, much less the Miami area. We are very family oriented and not much into the party scene now that we're older. I'm picturing thunderstorms, too hot, kids can't play outside because of the fire ants in the grass. Can someone give me some good news? Also, how much is your gas, milk, dry cleaning for ten shirts? I'm not kidding, I want the basics. Thank you!

GoTravel Oct 6th, 2006 10:09 AM

No, no children at all in Miami play outside because of fire ants in the grass.

Seriously, fire ants have massive ant hills that you stay away from and they aren't even an issue.

What is your budget for a home?

Coral Gables is a nice family neighborhood very close to downtown.

Your kids will play outside year around and will do different things. They'll surf, swim, play sports, and all the things other kids do except in the heat of the summer, they'll play on the beach instead of in your back yard.

Thunderstorms are wonderful, what is wrong with them? The rain usually cools it off for a few minutes.

Miami is a wonderfully diverse city and is said to be the northernmost Latin American City or the capitol of Latin America.

lenlu Oct 6th, 2006 01:48 PM

Thanks for your reply, I appreciate your help! I think we're trying to keep the house price under 400,000 if possible. Have any thoughts? I looked around Pembroke Pines and it seems there are some properties. Mainly I'm concerned about schools.

amcc Oct 6th, 2006 02:35 PM

I live in Miami, and I have 3 small boys, so maybe I can help you feel better. I understand your concern about schools, it's a big issue with kids. The website for the public school system in Miami-Dade is: http://www2.dadeschools.net/index.htm. Schools are graded based on standardized test scores, if you send to public, you'll want an A school. This is the link to the school grades: http://oada.dadeschools.net/DQM/06gradesElem.pdf. Surfing around their website, you can see what school would serve a potential residence.

Public schools don't generally start until Pre-K4, most until kindergarten, so before then, you send your kids to a private preschool. There are many, some associated with churches, some not. Whatever neighborhood you live in will have many to choose from.

I went to private school my whole life, but I will send my children to a public school at the corner of my house that is fantastic through elementary, after that I will switch them to a private Catholic school. There are many private schools around, I would say that Catholic schools are the most numerous, but that may just be because I am most familiar with those. There are excellent public schools, excellent magnet programs available, so the decision of public vs private is not as cut and dried as it might be in other school districts.

I can't imagine that any area of Broward County (like Pembroke Pines) is within half an hour of downtown Miami, particularly during rush hour. Great areas to live with kids are Coral Gables, South Miami, Pinecrest. I have no knowledge of what real estate prices are in your hometown, but it might be difficult to find something around $400k in these areas. A good realtor will be your best friend.

A huge benefit of these areas is that you can take the Metrorail downtown in about half an hour. My husband did that for quite a while, and it was convenient and safe.

I love living here. My kids play outside all the time, I've never even considered fire ants. The beach is great, we go to parks all the time. While summer is so hot and humid, you get used to it, and winter (Nov-April/May) is amazing. We don't do the party scene anymore either, but there is so much more to enjoy here than that.

Nature here is different than what you are used to, but it is beautiful and unique.

From friends who have moved here, I've found that the ones who most loved it are those who have embraced Miami's unique qualities, it's vibe, and the melting pot of cultures and peoples that it encompasses.

As for prices:

Gas is about $2.45/gallon (regular)
Milk (we are experts due to our children) is $2.49-$2.99/gallon (cheapest drugstore), $3.49-$3.99 more common at supermarket.

I can imagine how nerve wracking it must be to move like this and I hope it is something that will end up being a huge positive for your family.

rncheryl Oct 6th, 2006 02:47 PM

Wow, culture shock, for sure.
We live in Pembroke Pines and it is closer to an hour to downtown Miami. Iffy about schools, elementary much better than high schools. Good neighborhood to evaluate if you are ok with the drive is Weston in Broward County. Good access to I-75, upscale,family oriented town with numerous gated communities, lots of parks and open spaces. Miramar is a growning in Broward County further south, quite ethnically diverse.

321go Oct 6th, 2006 03:32 PM

Can I give you some good news? Certainly!

If your boys enjoy sports, soccer and softball are nearly year-round sports in Florida.

There are plenty of parks with great activities for kids: http://www.miamidade.gov/parks/

Miami Metrozoo is an excellent zoo with lots of children's programs. http://www.miamimetrozoo.com/

The beaches are great. The water is warm and you can swim nearly year-round. The Gulf coast beaches are particularly beautiful.

You'll experience cuisines that are difficult to find in other parts of the country: Haitian, Dominican, Cuban, etc.

You'll meet many other families who have moved here from other places. It's not the kind of place where you don't "belong" unless you great-grandmother was born there.

Thunderstorms are exciting; just stay inside and enjoy the show.

amcc's advice: "I've found that the ones who most loved it are those who have embraced Miami's unique qualities, it's vibe, and the melting pot of cultures and peoples that it encompasses." is so true. I hope that you will look upon your move as an amazing adventure and enjoy every minute of it.


Judyrem Oct 7th, 2006 05:15 AM

321 and amcc, very good and thoughtful advice, I am sure you have made lenlu feel much better about the move!

GoTravel Oct 7th, 2006 09:15 AM

lenlu, one thing you will find by moving to such a tropical area that is surrounded by water is that your family as a whole will start doing more and more water related activities.

Boating is an activity we enjoy year around.

lenlu Oct 7th, 2006 10:06 AM

Guys,
This is all very helpful information for which I am grateful. I'm totally into new cuisine and cultures (here primarily Asian) so moving to another will be fun. An hour commute is not okay for us so we'll have to look closer to Miami. My husband's work is off-commute hours but still...I'd hoped to live slightly less expensively than Seattle but it doesn't sound like it. Sounds pretty equal actually. Last question, is everyone's home damp from all the rain and do most homes have ants/bugs inside? I really don't want roaches in my house, it's enough to make me halt the move. Can I have hardwood floors or do they have to be tile? Thanks guys. Strange questions but I've gotta know.

AustinTraveler Oct 7th, 2006 10:27 AM

Your house will have air conditioning so you don't have to worry about dampness. You can have wood floors too, no problem.

You will probably see a roach or two but you won't be overrun with them unless you're a total slob (which I doubt!).

I grew up in Florida and I can tell you that the heat certainly never kept us inside. My nieces play soccer year round in Florida and they're doing just fine. Just keep drinking water!

And good for you for wanting to keep your husband's commute short. I hope you find a great neighborhood close to his job. Sorry I can't help with the specifics but I didn't grow up in that area of Florida.

Lastly, your questions aren't strange at all!!


GoTravel Oct 7th, 2006 10:34 AM

We have palmetto bugs and they are basically large flying cockroaches. They are not a sign of dirtyness, everyone has them but routine and regular pest control will keep them at bay.

It is the tropics, we do have lots of bugs but you really don't see them.

I'm not understanding why bugs would halt your move?

No, it isn't damp as someone said, AC takes care of that.

One thing to remember, the humidity makes your skin look and feel better!

321go Oct 7th, 2006 11:07 AM

Lenlu, it's not the same kind of damp as the PNW experiences. And as others have pointed out, A/C keeps it at bay in your home.

Yes, palmetto bugs exist here, but no they won't be flying all over your house. Your realtor or new neighbors should be able to give you recommendations for what is known here as "the bug man." The bug man will make sure that the only bugs you will ever see (and that will be rare) will be dead ones. Think of it this way: there are no slugs here!

It sounds as though you're planning on buying, so do be sure to check on how much your homeowners insurance will cost before you buy your new home. The cost can vary quite a lot depending on the specific location and type of building. Then be sure to find out what your property taxes will be - if someone gives you the figure the current owners are paying, that won't help. Due to Florida's unusual property tax laws, your taxes will be different. Your realtor will be able to explain it to you.

Some other Florida advantages: take the words "overcast" and "drizzle" out of your vocabulary. You won't need them. And say goodbye to going to work in the dark and coming home in the dark. Even in winter, daylight lasts much longer than it does in Seattle.

amcc Oct 7th, 2006 12:05 PM

Don't worry about the bugs, I don't like them either and they aren't an issue generally. As someone mentioned, a good exterminator will take care of them. I haven't seen a roach in a while.

I have wood floors in my house as do many, many houses. The A/C is on practically everywhere, practically all the time so dampness is much less of a problem than you would think. Actually, getting used to the A/C (if you aren't) will probably be a bigger deal.

The neighborhoods I mentioned are within your commute time to downtown, so I would suggest you stick to areas in Miami-Dade County, probably south of downtown. Housing is expensive here, but prices are stabilizing after a couple of crazy years, so you will be coming in to the market at a better moment. There are thousands of new condos all over, but with kids, maybe you aren't interested. Other relocation threads here have mentioned that you might want to rent for a little while until you get your bearings and see the lay of the land, what neighborhoods appeal to you, traffic, older houses vs newer houses. It's a good idea worth considering.

Ask as many questions as you want, it is a big event you are doing.

Cimbrone Oct 7th, 2006 12:45 PM

The nice neighborhoods in Miami-Dade county are Coral Gables, parts of Miami Beach, and Pinecrest. But you will be paying top dollar for the square foot in these historic neighborhoods. Your other options are further out in places like Miami Lakes and Doral. I would avoid Kendal unless you love sitting in traffic. Do be careful about the neighborhood you choose as it would not be hard to find areas where you would be one of VERY few English speakers. (I grew up in Miami and have lived in So. Florida all my life, so I know what I'm talking about.)

My mom lives in Pembroke Pines and commuting from this area is very popular. Personally, I hate it there. It's far from everything worth going to, especially the beach. And it's plastic, with cookie cutter houses and increasingly run down commercial areas.

Aventura is a nice area in north Miami-Dade County with high rise condos in your price range. You'll be paying a lot for maitenance though, and the congestion around Aventura is a nightmare.

I'm a high school teacher (in an A school), and I would suggest you put your kids in private schools if you can afford it. I've gone to and taught in public schools all of my life, and I think that the education kids get there is a joke. Yes, an A school is probably safer and the kids more economically advantaged, but they're the same holding pens as any other public school I've encountered. You can do better.

I don't mean to sound negative, but having lived in South Florida for 35 years, I am still not used to the Summers. In August, you can barely breathe.

Have you visited yet? It's a very strange place. I hope you end up liking it.


SoBchBud1 Oct 8th, 2006 07:48 AM

i just want to congratulate everyone who's contributed this thread. I've lived in the Miami area for the last twenty years, and can say all the responses have been right on the money. You might want to check out the up and coming neighborhoods just north of downtown ie: Miami Shores, Belle Meade, Bay Point, El Portal, etc. just do searches in the 33138, 33137, and 33161 area codes, three of the hottest real estate areas in the country. Although the real estate prices might seem a little high, the proximity to the central city can't be beat, and there are excellent private schools in the area like the Cushman School and Miami Country Day School. The vibe in this uppper eastide area of Miami is palpable as tons of new restaurants, stores, and young upscale families with kids move back into the area.

I don't want to scare you, but there are also little gecko lizards by the millions living right outside your house in all the tropical foliage. Its sometimes a challenge not to step on them as they scurry across your path.
;)

lenlu Oct 8th, 2006 08:19 AM

Can I just put you all on my direct dial list for moral support! Kidding. Okay, I'm going to check out all the links, zip codes, real estate brokers (I've been checking remax since I don't know the main local shop in Miami). To be clear, I'm completely wigged out about these said Palmetto bugs. Oh my GOSH. We have a few small spiders here and nothing else, not even mosquitoes. I think I saw one in Greece once on the sea wall in Mykonos. Gigantic roach. I'll never forget my shock. Seriously, I dread that. Perhaps the bug man can come twice a month? I moved out of an apartment once when I saw a smashable German roach. The little lizards are okay. Maybe living in a highrise condo will make this roach problem non existant? Do most people pay for private grade/high school? I ask because I hope to pay for college for my kids but paying their schooling from preschool through college? Thing is, my husband makes a pretty respectable income...I guess it's just inflation and life these days. Anyway, I'll be checking back. Many thanks.

Stephanie Oct 8th, 2006 10:52 AM

If you like salsa music you'll love south florida. it was hard to find a radio station that had announcers speaking English. Maybe that is a good thing your children may become bilingual.

321go Oct 8th, 2006 01:35 PM

Let's deal in facts. Of the 80+ radio stations listed here, 17 were listed as Spanish. That would appear to leave plenty of English-language stations.

http://www.ontheradio.net/metro/Miami_FL.aspx

No_name Oct 8th, 2006 01:52 PM

I think Miami also has some of the best newscaster around. The NBC station has some of the best.
To find a "lizard" in you house is considered good luck, plus they eat the ants that can invade your kitchen.

Cimbrone Oct 8th, 2006 05:11 PM

Stop worrying about the bugs. I can't remember the last time I saw a cockroach or palmetto bug in my house. I've been having a harder time with lizards lately. They're very hard to catch, and, unlike with bugs, I feel bad about it because I end up finding their dried up carcasses a few weeks later.

As far as schools are concerned, lots of people have their kids in public schools. I'm very unusual in my cynicism about public schools.

Have you considered homeschooling? There's a great network of homeschoolers out there who have coordinated field trips, get togethers, etc. It's not that the system is worse here than anywhere else (although, come to think of it, Florida does always fall at the bottom of the list in education). But do you really want strangers who are burdened with a ton of other students teaching your kids, when you and the right materials could do it better?

I've been to Seattle, and I love it, by the way. It's earthy and moody and poetic. Florida is spacey and polarized and frenetic. But it's not all bad. The weather has cooled off in the past couple of days, I went for a jog on the beach this morning, and the sunset tonight was spectacular.

Judyrem Oct 8th, 2006 06:15 PM

Good thread! Yes, the weather has been gorgeous here lately! I defy anyone to say the 86* with 85* water temps is not ideal!!! Just imagine taking the kids to the beach every weekend, yes? I live in FLL and Bayview elementary(right down the street) is one of the top schools in Fla, but it is way too far from Miami. BTW, your children will love the lizards, they are cute IMO.

lenlu Oct 8th, 2006 06:26 PM

Hi all,
Just discovered the exact location of the job (address) it's in Miramar. So, looks like some of the N. suburbs are perhaps closer than living in Miami. Thoughts on places with the same criteria of good schools, cool environment, etc? Can't home school or I'd go insane. I guess I'll pay for school. I appreciate the thoughts though. I guess I'll need to rent first and scour the area.

Cimbrone Oct 8th, 2006 06:45 PM

Well Miramar is a whole other kettle of fish. You definitely don't want to live in Miami-Dade county. Your options for good neighborhoods have just widened a great deal. Davie, Coral Springs, Parkland and Plantation are nice suburbs out west (more home for your dollar). In the eastern county, near the beach, are historic neighborhoods in Hollywood and Ft. Lauderdale. Less square footage, more charm, and a quick drive to the beach. You also have the option of high-rise condos on the beach. I'm not sure what you could get in your price range in that department.

If your husband doesn't mind a bit of a commute (not bad, really), you might consider Boca Raton, in Palm Beach County. It's where I live. Somewhat upscale. Pretty Mediterranean architecture with a lot of prisitine beaches. There are posh, gated communities if you want them. Relatively good public schools.

The public school to go to in Broward is Nova--it goes K through 12--but I believe there is a waiting list. That's a school I could, perhaps, be persuaded to send my kid to. (Don't confuse it with Nova private school. That's something altogether different.) The "fancier" private schools are Pinecrest, North Broward Prep, and St. Andrews School (in Boca Raton).

RedRock Oct 8th, 2006 07:07 PM

We lived in the Miami area [Dade County, now Miami-Dade] for many years, it is slowly becoming a third world non-English speaking area of our country. Many people that have lived there are moving out of the area. The school system must teach, or should I say try to teach in many different languages. I have known second and third generation people that lived in the South Florida area that spoke little or no English. In all reality it is not really a necessity or requirement to speak English. Their kids start school and that is, in many cases, the first time they are exposed to a day to day English language situation. Enjoy your South Florida experience.

keli22o Oct 9th, 2006 05:18 AM

Hello,
I'd have to say to move into the Coral Gables or South Miami areas both which are about no more than 30 minutes to downtown. In South Miami try to stay up to 62 ave and between 40 street and 56 street. There is also Schenley Park right outside of Coral Gables. All of these areas have great schools. Coral Gables Elementary, West Lab, David Fairchild all of which are good schools. Pembroke Pines is much more than a 1/2 hour drive.

keli22o Oct 9th, 2006 05:23 AM

Wow RedRock I have never met a 2nd or 3rd generation that didn't speak English. I guess you must have found the only one in your few years here. Third world huh? I wonder if that is why major companies have their satellite offices here or why downtown Miami is full of companies with their headquarters here?

RedRock Oct 9th, 2006 05:31 AM

keli -- I have seen kids raised in homes where the language is not English and its not spoken in the home. The first time the kids get a dose of English is when they start to school. The school system then must compensate for this lack of mastery and it can be difficult for the children not to mention the teachers. Major companies are headquartered and have offices all over the world.

GoTravel Oct 9th, 2006 05:44 AM

keli, Miami is full of companies from other countries that have headquartered there. Most are from Spanish speaking countries.

My sister and brother in law are both pediatricians in Miami and it is common for second generation Miami residents to only speak Spanish.

starrsville Oct 9th, 2006 06:23 AM

keli, my experiences are similar to RedRock's as well.

Winkz40 Oct 9th, 2006 09:17 AM

Hi Lenlu!

Congrats on the relocate! If your company is located in Miramar, then you could choose to live in either Dade or Broward County. There are some great neighborhoods in the area.

Go to the Miami-Dade and Broward County Chamber of commerce websites for more information on relocating to the area.

My suggestion would be for you to rent close your jobs and then over the course of your lease, figure out where you would like to be.

There's no doubt South Florida is culturally diverse and like everywhere else, it has its pros and its cons.

I'm a little confused as to the talk of 2nd and 3rd generation "Miamians" not speaking English. I am proud to say that even my grandmother who migrated to this country over 30 years speaks English.

Best of luck to you!





GoTravel Oct 9th, 2006 09:35 AM

Wink, the reason being is because so many people in Miami speak Spanish as a first langauge, many never need to learn English at all.

Entire neighborhoods are Spanish speaking; doctors, lawyers, city services, grocery, etc.

starrsville Oct 9th, 2006 09:39 AM

I've been in stores where clerks did not speak any English - or at least claimed they did not.

espinach1 Oct 9th, 2006 09:43 AM

Just a word on raising kids in South Florida - I asked my kids if they think being raised here (Boca Raton) was a good experience or would they have rather been raised in a place like NY. The answer was an unconditional YES to Florida. They love it here and they are 18 and 22. Come on down.

Winkz40 Oct 9th, 2006 10:45 AM

Hey GoTravel!

I consider myself a native-Miamian and am aware that there are neighborhoods where Spanish, Portuguese and Creole are the norm. But, wouldn't go as far as calling Miami a third-world country with such generalizations.

I for one love living in Miami. One of my biggest gripes isn't its cultural diversity, it's the traffic.

GoTravel Oct 9th, 2006 11:18 AM

Oh no! Please don't think I called Miami a third world country, far from it! Not at all just the primary language spoken in many cases is not English.

Tons of money in Miami.

I personally love Miami and it is one of my favorite cities in the world.

lenlu Oct 11th, 2006 01:59 PM

Well,
I must say I feel better about the relocation after getting so much guidance all of you. I have always felt like getting things from locals is the best way to learn about a place. I do not speak Spanish (French) but perhaps I should learn! It doesn't really worry me in that I wouldn't live in an area that's only Spanish speaking, since this is America. However, I'd encourage all of us to learn because I see languages as a huge benefit to one's character. This has given me much to ponder on. I agree renting is wisest first. Wow. Next I'll have to ply all of you for restaurant and food info! Thank yoU!

321go Oct 11th, 2006 02:18 PM

lenlu, for food info, search for the "favorite cuban food" thread. Mouth-watering good stuff! And I agree, there is lot of good from knowing more than one language.

fontmn Oct 14th, 2006 06:08 AM

Last week, I spent the night at my elderly father's house in Pembroke Pines and took my first commute to Coral Gables from there at around 7:50 am. It took me an hour and a half to get there! I can't imagine doing that every day, though I suppose you learn the loops once you're there.
We live in Miami Springs, 7 miles to Coral Gables, 7 miles to the beach and pretty much in the center of the county. We have our own police department, a lovely golf course. This town is definately a step back in time and an oasis in the center of this sprawling city. Miami Springs is a Tree City USA. We have a lovely 4th of July parade culminating into fireworks at the end of the night, where you will find families gathered in rows and rows, blankets and lawn chairs strewn on the golf course. There are parks and sports activities for the children, bike trails and even a doggie park! A new ice-cream shop has opened at the "Circle" and there is a buzz about a possible contract with Starbucks (imagine that, a Starbucks, right in the center of town!).
Depending on what you are looking for, houses are old and relatively old - so you pay more for what you get. But prices are lower than Coral Gables and Pinecrest. Certainly, though, it looks nothing like the gated communities you will find in Broward.
As for schooling, my daughters attending the public elementary school (there are two, here). During the middle school years, they attended the Catholic School (there is one). For high school, one child attended a Catholic school in Miami, a magnet program in Coral Gables is where the other one went. I cannot say that I recommend public middle or senior high schools, for the most part. But that's just me. One exception are the magnet programs, which I highly recommend.
Best of luck.

RedRock Oct 14th, 2006 08:28 AM

I will second Miami Springs, we lived there for a number of years, on Glen Way one block off Curtis Parkway. It is a true oasis in that part of the county.

Brookside Oct 16th, 2006 06:49 PM

Lenlu - consider your self lucky! My cousin lives in Boca Raton and it's a lovely place - despite the ocassional palmetto bug!

She is from Dallas, and, like you, had a fear of six legged critters, felt they reflected on her housekeeping, etc. She got over that quickly, and says that with a little boric acid (a safe pesticide) they are under control.

The one thing she said that made a HUGE difference in her enjoyment of life in the tropics? A swimming pool! Most houses in the area have them, and it makes a huge difference to be be able to relax and cool off in your own backyard. And needless to say, winters are a delight - sunny, balmy, and usually dry.

Good luck on your move -- it's overwhelming of course -- but it's a beautiful area. Congratulations!


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