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SamInLondon Sep 20th, 2005 12:54 PM

over-excited about SF/CA
 
Hi there

My first post, so please forgive any mistakes. I'm planning my first trip to CA (my first to the US, in fact) and am absolutely wetting myself with anticipation :-) Arrive in SF on 5 November for 6 nights, thereafter looking to travel down for Highway 1 before taking a sharp left towards Bakersfield and Death Valley, eventually flying back from LV. We're on a relatively modest budget (about $100 per night for accommodation), and I was wondering about US motels. Are they generally OK? Are some chains better than others? Of course, any other recommendations about where to say in that prince range (e.g. B&Bs) would be very welcome. Thanks for helping out! Sam

SamInLondon Sep 20th, 2005 01:08 PM

Me again. Just to make things clearer, we have about 8 days to go down the coast and from LV back up to SF. I wouldn't mind spending a day or two in the Gold Country too, but only if we can squeeze it in.

iamq Sep 20th, 2005 01:28 PM

I hate it when I wet myself.

Do you have any idea of the things that you want to see or what interests you? There is plenty to see and do between S.F. and the south on #1.

Carmel? Big Sur? Hearst Castle? Wine Country? Palm Springs?

Are you wanting to spend some time in Death Valley?

How many days do you want to stay in Vegas.

Are you interested in seeing Yosemite?

Are you flying from Vegas back to S.F.?

I could make some motel reccomedations if I knew where you were going to be staying.

Sounds like the bones to a great trip though.

-Bill

SamInLondon Sep 20th, 2005 01:41 PM

Hi there. I was thinking one night in Monterey, one night in Cambria - to take in Hearst Castle. I'm very keen to see the coast and the famous redwoods, but all from the comfort of a decent bolt-hole. Yosemite would be amazing but I'm hesitating on account of the weather (rain and snow doesn't appeal - I get enough of that here :-) ), which is why I was thinking of desert. I don't think we want to spend long on Las Vegas - maybe just one night. We're both about 35 and looking forward to experiencing some extreme American culture! But really, any advice would be invaluable.

SamInLondon Sep 20th, 2005 01:42 PM

Yes, we're flying back from Vegas to Oakland.

FainaAgain Sep 20th, 2005 01:48 PM

If the weather is nice, go to the Valley of Fire out of Las Vegas.

Michael Sep 20th, 2005 02:11 PM

This might change our mind about Yosemite in the winter:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/pgMessa...p;tid=34614008

sequoia370 Sep 20th, 2005 02:12 PM

See the redwoods at Big Basin, biggest trees within 100 miles of SF, and on your way south. Tent cabins available there (with wood burning stoves) or stay about 10 miles south at the Brookdale Lodge. funky old resort with a creek running through the dining room.

starrsville Sep 20th, 2005 02:14 PM

Hampton Inns are very consistant in my experience. Moderate hotel rooms with a nice continental breakfast. They have a 100% satisfaction guarantee and I've always been very satisfied with cleanliness, etc.

If you choose from the Holiday Inn group, the Holiday Inn Express or Select hotels are usually newer and offer a continental breakfast as well.

www.hamptoninn.com
www.ichotelgroup.com

SamInLondon Sep 20th, 2005 02:48 PM

Thanks for all your help so far - much appreciated. In your experience, can we realy on just turning up at motels, or do they also require booking ahead? Since we're travelling in November, I was sort of hoping that we wouldn't have to tie ourselves down to fixed dates, but I have a hunch that there's a public holiday around the 11th. Is that right?

Yosemite does look wonderful (-sigh-), but we'd have to get snow chains on the hire car, and I'd have to twist Partner's arm (he comes from sunny Sardinia and doesn't cope well with the cold. Poor thing).

Are there good places within Death Valley? I'm guessing not much within our price range ($100 ish).

Thanks once again for helping out.

Michael Sep 20th, 2005 04:06 PM

Somehow the "y" drop out of "your" in my original message.

trypgyrl Sep 21st, 2005 02:01 AM

Hi SamInLondon,
I'm excited for you, this is a great trip. I took my family on this trip 2 years ago. Everyone here on this post has given you great advice. Hotel shopping is the greatest hurdle. I would probably reserve ahead of time while in San Fran, due to driving around in the city, there are good areas and not so good. The rest of your trip you will probably be good to drop in when you find a place you want to stay. November is not high season, (Veterans Day is Nov. 11th not a big deal for travel) except for Death Valley area, due to cooler temps, most places around 50-60 dollars. You might have to pay more(closer to your limit in SanFran and along coast). Average temps in Calif. 40,s low and 60's high, 70's in death valley. My advice is to get a good travel book, such as Fodor's or Frommer's for California, to help plan your itinerary,(as well as web sites like this). Lots of things to do in SanFran (and culture),Golden Gate Bridge, The Japanese tea garden in Golden Gate Park,Twin Peaks, Height-Ashbury area, and Fisherman's Wharf for the more touristy stuff and good seafood, also in Las Vegas, interesting hotel/casino decors, the fountains at the Bellagio, shows, Valley of Fire for a quick trip just outside the city, The Fremont street experience downtown. There are redwoods just over the golden gate bridge in Muir woods, but bigger ones in Big Basin. The highway 1 is awesome. Hearst castle is nice, San Louis Obisbo nearby has a great farmer's market on Thursday nites, (great eats). Nice hotel in Cambria, Castle Inn by the Sea, Call for off season rates 1-805-927-8605. The Grand Canyon is spectacular if you have a chance while in Las Vegas, temps a little cooler, 25 low-50's high. Yosemite is gorgeous but better for warmer weather if that is what you like. Death Valley is warmer, but not as scenic, it's a long drive through the desert and the starkness gets to be a bit much for me anyway, but a must drive through, some good hikes if that is what you like. OK I guess I've rambled on enough, have a great time.
Carrie

andiamo Sep 21st, 2005 02:52 AM

Hi Sam,
I second (third) the idea of "Valley of Fire". It's about a one hour drive just outside Vegas. It's breathtaking, almost a spiritual experience. No matter how much stress you have in your life, you will lose it all here. I highly recommend it. I took many photos when I was there and yet, they don't live up to actually seeing it in person.

Have a great trip!
Andiamo

bardo1 Sep 21st, 2005 04:23 AM

Sam,

Your general plan looks great don't go for less than 6 nights in SF.

Expect accomodations in SF to cost about double what they will will be for the rest of your trip.

Reservations for SF they are essential, but outside of SF you can just get something when you arrive which will give you some flexibility.

The Cow Hollow Motor Inn gets recommended on lot on this board and is within your budget - http://www.cowhollowmotorinn.com

Some other budget SF places you can research:

Alisa Hotel

Hotel Beresford Arms

The Andrews Hotel

The Cornell Hotel de France

King George Hotel

Grant Plaza Hotel

The Sheehan Hotel

The San Remo Hotel

The Hotel Majestic

The Willows Inn

The Castillo Inn

Beck's Motor Lodge

The Marina Inn

Hostelling International San Francisco

Edward II Inn & Suites

The Cartwright Hotel

York Hotel

Halcyon Hotel

Hotel Bijou

24 Henry

The Golden Gate Hotel

The Savoy Hotel

The Fitzgerald

Hotel Beresford


SamInLondon Sep 21st, 2005 05:19 AM

Thanks for your positive and enthusiastic responses. I'm so excited I had trouble sleeping last night (time to lock the guide books away, I suspect).

I've booked 6 nights at the San Remo in San Francisco, which looks ideal (fingers crossed). It's encouraging to know that accommodation elsewhere will be affordable - I had a look at some places along the coast and was slgihtly shocked both by the prices and the two nights minimum that some of them impose at the weekends.

Perhaps I'm being a real tourist, but I kind of feel that if I'm coming all this way, I'd want to see the hottest, lowest, most famous desert. Is it just the bleakness that puts people off, or is the size, or a combination of both?

Also, would you recommend spending a night in Santa Cruz on the way down so that we can take in Big Basin? Sounds like a typically Californian place, and I'd try and organize things so that we can hit the Big Dipper before lunch ... or maybe not.

I have to just say that I find this forum amazing. Strangers taking time to help someone they will probably never even meet! But I guess everyone here finds travel absolutely intoxicating. We may be tapping away at our PCs at home or in the office, but our minds are obviously fixed on the great blue yonder.

tovarich Sep 21st, 2005 06:12 AM

If you want to safe some money along the way try Motel 6. Nice clean rooms.When you're touring you only need a clean room with decent bathroom, most of them have a swimming pool.Will only cost you between 40 and 6O $. If I were you I would prefer to go to Yosemite from SF for a couple of days and then cross the Tioga pass and drive to Stovepipe Wells( Death valley). And from there to LV.When you're in SF dont forget to see Muir woods not far over the Golden gate bridge. Beautiful redwoods.And visit Alcatraz.Paul

trypgyrl Sep 21st, 2005 07:24 AM

Hi again,
As you can see, it's a very individual thing: traveling. Everyone has different tastes. The desert area of California is huge, and remember you won't be there during the "hot" time. The vastness of the landscape is beautiful in it's own way, sparsley populated, mostly by poorer folk in trashy trailers, no green here, just lots of dirt and scattered cacti and tumbleweeds, if just traveling through. So depending on what you want out of the desert, it would be easier to guide you. Remember Las Vegas is in a desert and the Valley of Fire and Red Rock Canyon both nearby offer beautiful desert scenery vs. the bleakness of the drive through the Mojave. If Death Valley is your route then you will see great sunsets and sunrises, salt flats and sand dunes. This is all a great contrast to the coastline. Use your books and decide what you like to do, you have alot of ground to cover in your trip and whatever you decide you should not be disappointed, except that you will have to come back to see the rest.
Carrie

andiamo Sep 23rd, 2005 01:07 AM

Sam,
You've received some great advice. Wishing you a wonderful trip! You have some great plans, so I'm sure you will enjoy it.

With 6 days in SF, you will be able to see so much in the City! Even squeeze in a day to the wine country, if that a desire. Hope you enjoy SF, it's my home!

You mentioned how nice Fodorites are. I fully agree. They have helped me on my trip plans, and I try to offer help with others. My best experience was this spring, when I met some Fodorites in person. They, too, were from the UK, and were looking to get a birthday cake delivered to their hotel as a surprise for their Mum. I wound up picking up the cake (they pre-ordered) and delivered it myself. They invited me to stay and join them in the celebration. That was in May. I have been in touch with them via email ever since, and have been invited to their wedding next year! I know I have made friends for life.

Glad you are enjoying the posts and advice you have been given. It's true, everyone has their own travel ideas....so read what everyone has written, read your travel books, and plan your fun itineary! I know you will have a fabulous time!

Best wishes to you!
Andiamo

andiamo Sep 23rd, 2005 01:08 AM

Sam,
Forgot to mention, please post back with your travel tips/experience when you return. We enjoy reading it, and you will also provide others with an idea of things to see and do!

Andiamo

bbqboy Sep 23rd, 2005 06:50 AM

consider Angel Island instead of Alcatraz, depending on your love of nature vs. historic prisons.
I may be throwing you off, but having seen both many times, for a first time trip I would much prefer the Grand Canyon to Death Valley. That might not be doable. Maybe I lived in the desert to long. Check out this thread from someone's similar trip:
http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=69063

andiamo Sep 25th, 2005 02:53 AM

If you've never been to Alcatraz, don't miss it. Esp. the audio tour. It's an amazing tour, and incredible experience of our history. (as far as admissions go, it's also very inexpensive!) The view of SF and Marin alone, are worth the trip. I understand bbqboy's thoughts, but he has been there several times. If you are in the area and have the opportunity, don't miss it.
Have a great trip!
Andiamo

donco Sep 25th, 2005 06:03 AM

Hi Sam, I recently posted a trip report of our 3.5 days. If a search doesn't find it, just click on 'donco'. Hub and I loved Alcatraz-it really depends on your tastes though. I'd go to it. Do buy a Muni pass-the Cable Car fare just increased to, gulp, $5 a shot! Enjoy!

donco Sep 26th, 2005 05:31 AM

p.s.-If you decide to go, order Alcatraz tickets in advance on internet. That advice might apply to other places of interest. Local Fodorites can let you know specific things.

hilda Sep 26th, 2005 04:00 PM

Regarding the motels, check Marriott.com, an American chain with a broad range of brands. Their budget hotel is Fairfield Inn, nice and more amenities than Motel 6. In Las Vegas, we've gotten rooms under $100 without much difficulty at strip hotels like New York New York, occasionally MGM or Mirage. In San Francisco another option is the Columbus Motor inn, sister property to the Cow Hollow Motel. La Quinta is a popular US motel chain in California. I agree with previous posts on Hampton Inn or Holiday Inn Express, the budget line of Holiday Inn. We've been to California Gold country, its OK but not worth driving way out of your way. I have a friend who goes to the Yosemite Valley year round. The most stunning scenery is in the Valley, the high country roads would be closed. . I would suggest a separate post about Yosemite in November and ask for advice. I dont like to walk into hotels wihtout reservations, you wont get the best deal. Look at hotel web sites, many chains including Marriott are fighting other discounters and offer the best rates on their own web sites. In San Francisco, my suggestion is buy the day cable car pass and ride to your hearts content. Also do lots of walking, its a gorgeous city. Enjoy your trip to the US

SamInLondon Sep 27th, 2005 03:55 AM

Thanks once again, everyone, for all your help. I am almost - almost - on the point of making a few reservations, and your advice has been extremely useful.

I had arrived at the same conclusion about the Gold Country - nice enough, but perhaps not if we're trying to limit ourselves to highlights.

We have about two nights free after coming back from Vegas, so I was thinking we could fit in a short trip to the wine country - or Yosemite, if I can find out about the weather in November and accommodation.

Thanks once again. Sam

J_Correa Sep 27th, 2005 07:37 AM

I scanned the responses and I didn't see any answers to your question about Santa Cruz, so here is some info.

I think Santa Cruz is definitely worth a stop. Big Basin is exellent and Santa Cruz itself is fun. The high season is in the summer, so some things will be closed, but it is still a good time to visit. It will just be a little more subdued with mostly locals rather than bunches of tourists so you will get a different feeling for the town than if you came in the summer.

You mentioned the Giant Dipper, which is my favorite roller coaster of all time - sentimental favorite, but it is also a lot of fun. In November the Boardwalk has really limited hours because it is the low season. If you can schedule your time in Santa Cruz on a weekend, you will be in luck. Check out this link for hours of operation:

http://www.beachboardwalk.com/calendar/november.html


bear900 Sep 29th, 2005 08:33 AM

Hi Sam,
As usual, there is some great advice on this board, and great choices to make. I see one major aspect of your trip where you seem uncertain, and feel it in your best interest to close the gap.

You mentioned after Cambria, heading towards Bakersfield, then into Death Valley. Some have recommended seeing Yosemite if you go this route. I routinely visit my brother and sister up in Oakhurst just below Yosemite in late November. The fall colors are nice and Yosemite is usually doable that time of the year. It is one of the sight-seeing wonders of the world and I recommend it over Death Valley.

Or, you can also see some desert-like volcanic rock formations at The Western Pinnacles National Monument off Hiway 101 near Soledad, or the Eastern Pinnacles National Monument off Hiway 156 heading into the San Joaquin Valley. Many Death Valley enthusiasts also enjoy these two spots.

Generally, The San Joaquin Valley gets fogged up in the winter, but may not be too bad in early November. In either case, it’s best to decide whether to make the un-scenic SJ valley your route, or stay along Hiway 101 South past San Luis Obispo along the coast, and then head east to Las Vegas.

You may already be thinking that, and planning the Hiway 166 East route to Bakersfield from Hiway 101, just south of Nipomo? I have taken that route once. In any case, plan on the second half of the drive to Vegas to be a relentlessly long drive with plenty of desert scenery along the way.

Enjoy!

SamInLondon Oct 1st, 2005 06:29 AM

Thanks for all your suggestions.

Have finally taken the plunge and booked 2 nights at Stovepipe Wells. Seems to have a more 'desert feel' than the golf courses and the like in Furnace Creek. I know some might say that 2 nights is too long, but I've looked at the pictures and I know I won't be able to drag myself away from those amazing vistas.

Will probably come up from SLO via Ridgecrest (will be staying there rather than Cambria, I decided). One thought occurs to me. Would it be feasible to overnight somewhere near the Sequoia National Forest, or would it adding too much time to the next day's journey to Death Valley? We'll see coastal redwoods somewhere up north, but I really yearn to see those big boys in the SNF. Not sure how far south the groves extend (more research required). Does this seem like an OK plan? Does anyone know if the Walker Pass (178) would be open mid-November and if that would make the journey easier?

Thanks for your help once again - you're a marvel.

It's sunny in London. Really ought to be outside ...

Saraho Oct 2nd, 2005 07:56 AM

Santa Cruz is lovely, interesting, and well worth a visit. It's just a short drive from San F.

bodi Oct 2nd, 2005 12:19 PM

Lots of fun ideas here! May I suggest checking hostels? That can save you a lot of money and some are in unique locations. My personal favorite is the Montera Lighthouse Hostel. Do you like to camp? Costanoa on Hwy 1 is another option for lodging. I gasped at 6 days in SF with a car, please know exactly what it will cost to park. You could go broke in a shocking flash between gas and parking! Is your heart set on 6 days in SF? May I ask what activities you both enjoy? We could fine tune your trip to what would be most memorable for you. Are you interested in CA history? In the Gold Country, Columbia State Park is a quick walk through the past. Near by is Moaning Caverns if you'd like to try the thrill of repelling the length of the Statue of Liberty? Love cars? Blackhawk Auto Museum. Surfing? Half Moon Bay Mavericks & Santa Cruz. Mountain top views? Mt. Diablo & Mt. Tam. Photography? Wildlife? What would you most like?

SamInLondon Oct 2nd, 2005 01:07 PM

Hi bodie

We're without car in SF, only picking it up on the way out (after 5 days) before driving down Highway 1. I think we're pretty much decided on stopping -off points - except for the end of the trip, when I can't decide on 2 days in Russian River or 2 days in Yosemite. I know how gob-smacking Yosemite is supposed to be, but we would come away feeling frustrated? It could be that a gentle drive through Sonoma up to Guerneville and then a couple of days canoeing or horseriding might be more relaxing - but any thoughts on this most welcome ! Sam

Suki Oct 2nd, 2005 02:22 PM

Well, it's probably not as helpful to you for me to reply since I've never been to Yosemite. But, I would hate for you to miss the beautiful wine country of California. I remember thinking "This is heaven on earth" as I sat outside sipping wine at Chateau St. Jean. Nothing else really comes close for me if you want peaceful beauty.

mlgb Oct 2nd, 2005 05:13 PM

The Wine country is nice, but Yosemite is gob-smacking for sure. A few Londoners that have visited me in California have rated Yosemite as their favorite sight, together with Big-Sur. Since you can go to the French Wine Country, I would put Yosemite over that.

bodi Oct 3rd, 2005 01:26 AM

I'm delighted to know you won't have the car to worry about in SF! May I ask what your planned stops & routes are at this time and what is your "must see" list in the SF area? I'm stuck working at home for a while, so your trip is relief dreaming for me. I love our California land and all it's options and diverse beauty, and sincerely want the best experence possible for you. Really looking forward to your trip report too!

SamInLondon Oct 3rd, 2005 11:23 AM

To be honest, I haven't got fixed plans for our time in SF. We'll take in Alcatraz, ride a few trams and the rest, but I'm really looking forward to just walking around the city and absorbing the atmosphere - with lots of stops for food and refreshment along the way, of course! It's my first time in the US, so everything will be very new.

Current routes are:

SF - 5 nights
Monterey - 2 nights
San Luis Obispo - 1 night
somewhere on the way to the desert (Ridgecrest?) - 1 night
Death Valley - 2 nights
Las Vegas - 1 night ...
Last night will be back in SF, in a different district from North Beach, where we start ... still thinking about that one ... which leaves ...

2 free nights. Still can't decide between Yosemite and the Wine Country. Yosemite is stunning, I know, but I'm worried (i) about the weather in mid-Nov, and (ii) that I'll spend all my time worrying about must-sees that we can't see. Lots of worrying. Option B (a couple of days near Sonoma, maybe Guerneville) might be more relaxing. Any idea what the weather might be like? And where are you writing from?!


bodi Oct 3rd, 2005 01:03 PM

Greetings again! I live here in N CA in the East Bay, across from San Francisco. Today is very windy, leaves and pine needles quickly dropping. I don't know if that means an early winter or not but that's how it feels. This has been an odd year, our weather so unpredictable. Yosemite is spectacular and if clear, I would also like you to see Tioga pass too Mono Lake,Bodi Ghost town is probably closed, but then you could drive through Big Trees and the historic Gold Country and on to the Wine Country and Russian River,Jenner, Bodega Bay, on down Hwy 1 to Point Reyes, Stinson, Sausalito, and back to San Francisco. Do you already have reservation for a flight out of Las Vegas?

mlgb Oct 3rd, 2005 01:35 PM

Hi Sam, I live in So Cal but have family in the Bay Area. Weather in early November can be very good, often sunny although nights can be cold. Yosemite Valley itself is not at a high elevation, and you can definitely see the main sites, with a few hikes, in one full day. Check the park service website for reservations, road conditions and weather. Two great short hikes are Vernal Falls (not necessary to go all the way to the top unless you are extremely fit) and my favorite, Sentinel Dome, with a 360-degree view.

http://www.nps.gov/yose/now/conditions.htm

I would consider making a reservation within in Yosemite Valley, as opposed to one of the outlying areas. Availability should be very good at the time of year you are going.

I don't know if Tioga Pass Road will be open, as they will close it at first snowfall. If it is open, it's a great way to get between San Francisco and US 395 on the way to Death Valley. Although it can be nervewracking, if you are not used to windy mountain roads with steep drop off.

SamInLondon Oct 3rd, 2005 01:55 PM

Thanks to both of you for your helpful comments. We are flying back from Vegas, but haven't made a reservation yet - which is why I'm trying to decide where to go. For Yosemite, I was considering Fresno or Merced. I have already deleted the Tioga Pass from the equation simply because I can't rely on it. BUT those sheer drops sound amazing. I still remember a trip I did up in the mountains of Crete - poop-my-pants scary!

We'd be in Yosemite 17 and 18 Nov. I've checked accommodation: apart from tent cabins (I'm guessing not such a good idea in November), there are only rooms without bath in Wawona Hotel. Looks nice on the website and I would have signed up, but most people on Tripadvisor gave it a big thumbs down. So I was considering a motel or B&B just outside the boundary - maybe Mariposa. Ahwahnee, needless to say, is out of my budget.


mlgb Oct 3rd, 2005 02:50 PM

The heated tent cabins are not really that bad, although it is group showers. However if you can back up your dates by a day, you might get into Yosemite Lodge. I think you are running into the weekend before Thanksgving with those dates.

Carrabella Oct 3rd, 2005 08:47 PM

Have a look at www.roomsaver.com under California, to see what motels you can get along the road, if you are able to drive around on spec. Coupon books can be had from the airport, McDonalds and service stations.
On our first trip, we found them useful not only to save money, but also to have a goal to aim for, instead of wondering on the road where to go, if you know what I mean. That was before the internet, however!


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