Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Trip Report OSB's Big Island Trip Report #1

Someone suggested I keep my TR's together, so here is the 2nd installment:

***Now that everyone reading this knows we are 'OK', I'll make a small diversion about an event that happened just prior to the trip.

This was the plan: Attend DH's meeting in Perdido, AL for a few days during the week. On Saturday, attend the niece's graduation from USA in Mobile at 2PM and the shrimp boil party that evening at 5:30PM .

Thursday was mom's BD so I sent her card, early and I'll deliver her gift at the graduation shrimp boil.

Sunday is DS # 1's BD and we will celebrate at Mimi's house where we are all staying. DS#2 has offered to 'cook steaks' so we purchased those at a nice little shop in Mobile and ordered the cake from Polman's – our family's favorite, which I was to pick up on Saturday.

WELL, around 6AM on Saturday morning, the phone rings. It's DS#1 informing us that DS#2 (who is scheduled to go on vacation to HI with me ) has been in an accident.
Flipped and TOTALED his car

He is in the hospital ER and we aren't sure but reportedly fine. No comprehensive insurance, only liability. Thank God, there were no other injured parties.
He took a taxi to his apartment.

Of course, we hit the floor running, as he was still in the ER when we left Mobile for MS, where he lives. He did sustain some contusions, abrasions. Still having some shoulder pain, which he plans to get checked out since returning.

We drove there, packed him up and brought him to Mimi's. He was too bummed to make it to the graduation party – his favorite cousin's, but DH & I did, though we were 'fashionably late'. I don't think I've ever gotten presentable so quickly before in my life – 1 hr flat!

Anyway, though he occasionally c/o of his shoulder, he was basically OK enough to make the trip. Whew! I thank God for that!

__________________________________________________ _________________________________

05/12/07 : The day we've planned for for months. It's the day we have reservations with Dive Makai to do two scuba dives – an afternoon and a night dive to see the Manta Rays! I've dreamed of this for at least 3 years. We both got certified just two weeks prior, in order to be able to do this dive!

Well, around 6:15AM the eye's are beginning to wake, but the body's not out of bed yet. Suddenly, from the next bed I hear: ' MOM! I don't think I'm gonna be able to go diving today!...I think I have an ear infection.'

We discuss the symptoms, I determine it's probably his TMJ, maybe aggravated by the wreck. But, no, he think's it's his ear.
So, instead of going snorkeling at Two Step as planned this AM, we find ourselves at a private Clinic. It's Saturday. No one else is there.

They want $140 cash up front. But wait, a phone call confirms that the ER at the hospital in Kona will accept insurance with no co-pay up front. So off we go to Kona Community Hospital to see nurse Diane and Dr. 'Z'.

After the examination, Dr. 'Z' confirms, the ear is completely clear –“ it's probably your TMJ, son.”

Afternoon Dive (3:30PM) & Manta Ray Night Dive - Dive Makai (329-2025).
We meet at Honokohau Small Boat Harbor – Boat is 31 ft long, name is LIO KAI lll. Means Sea Horse.

Our Dive Master was Dave and our Dive instructor was Lydia. She is from Athens, GA and has been there on the Big Island for 1 yr. They are obviously an item – well, not so obvious at 1st, but it becomes apparent in conversation. They are very good at what they do.

I informed Lydia that I was a beginner and would appreciate her keeping a close eye on us/ me – especially during the night dive.
She did and it was great! However, Dave was the night guy, and I felt alittle less certain about his supervision.

[I was somewhat put-off because we were told all along that we were the only two people signed up to go on the dives this date. Even the morning 'of' when I called with some questions, I was told we were the only ones.

They usually take as many as 6, but they would take only 2 ( though initially I was told they require at least 3 ). Granted, Tom, who is the original owner, and now makes no dives but handles all the 'set up' by phone or e-mail, is aged - around 80, I think.

Anyway, when we got there, 4 others showed up to go. They indicated they had dived with this company the previous night and was going again the next day. When I asked if they had this set up in advance, they said yes, for over a week!

I really am a friendly sort and usually like company, so the only reason I can figure that I feel this way is that I was misled. I had actually been 'sweating it' that they would cancel the trip since it was just the two of us – but really all along, there were more.

That, and the people that went seemed politically 'friendly' yet somewhat clickish and aloof.
One was a writer for Women's World magazine.]

Another little caveat was that the boat had been in the shop – which I learned when we called to let them know we were on island, as they requested.

Well, when they put her in the water, they had trouble getting her going. We all stood around for about an hour waiting for them to determine whether this trip was a 'go' or a 'bust'. It was hot, asphalt, etc.

Other than those things, we enjoyed the actual trip immensely! We drove to Garden Eel Bay to make the dive. They use steel tanks – heavier than the aluminum ones I was used to, but they have you sit on the back of the boat and they bring you all your gear & give you any assistance you need.

Prior to the dive, Lydia outlined the plan and showed us pictures and hand signals for the different types of things we'd expect to see.

We saw hundreds of garden eels, several other types of eels of various colors, spiny lobster, as well as the different species of fishes and types of coral. But no Manta Rays.

There was only one other boat there, prior to us, and they had the huge lights all in a circle waiting for the Mantas. However, I later learned the Mantas had not been seen for the last several days. Oh well, it was still very worth the trip!

Between the dives, they had snacks and drinks for us. It was a bit cold afterwards so the special brew of tea Lydia had made was especially welcomed! It was green tea with some spices and a touch of soy milk, which gave it some substance.

***If you dive, make sure you mark your gear – all of it – in conspicuous places. One girl picked up my mask and snorkel (clearly marked, mind you) and was making her way to the back of the boat to dive when I spotted her.

Then, after the dive, we were told to leave all our gear on board and they would rinse it and bring it to us. Well, she left early and took one of my booties with her! UGH!

Since she was diving with them the next day, they agreed to get it from her and leave it in the truck – door unlocked so we could retrieve it. We DID, but again, time wasted traveling in a direction we were not planning to go that day.

I know it sounds like I've done nothing but complain about this particular dive tour. But, I have to state that DS says this is THE most memorable thing he did on either island – though he did not enjoy the company of the other guests.

And, I have to say it was quite remarkable and great fun! I'd never have thought I'd have done it, and many of my friends and family are surprised that we did also!

05/13/07: Up early again. Today we go to Green Sand Beach. Went by Long's Drug Store to pick up some underwater film we'd dropped off the day before – I can't believe it – they aren't ready! Got some good shave ice though and bentos at a stand in front of Longs. We put the bentos in a cooler for a picnic later.

Further up the road, we stopped at the South Kona Fruitstand for some snacks & fresh fruit : strawberry papaya, apple bannanas, tried a plam nut (not my fav – somewhat persimmony mouth feel), rose apple, and zucchini bread and DS got a Peanut Butter smoothie of some sort.

Plan was to go to Punalu'u Black Sand Beach, South Point, Green Sand Beach and, time permitting, snorkeling at Two Step working our way back towards Keahou.

We didn't make the snorkeling, but did do the 1st three things. The Black Sand Beach was really large and there was a fisherman there. I love to take pictures of the fishermen. There was a refreshment stand, but we had our own. Facilities.

We had our picnic there at some tables, the wind blowing fairly strongly. Some guy in the parking lot was pulling out his ukelele just as we were leaving. Guess we missed the free entertainment!

On to South Point and the road that runs over a cliff into the ocean. I expected to hear the windmills, but I could not hear them. Some are dilapidated and others in good, working order. No facilities.

We had to kind of guess where to park and walk toward Green Sand Beach. There is a sign and an old lot across from a foreboding looking house saying to park there, but we drove a bit futher and parked. We lugged our snorkeling gear since we'd brought it with us and knew better than to leave it in the car due to all the reports of break-ins. (Do-over, I would not have brought it.)

It was getting near sundown when we finally made the 2 ¼ mile trek to GSB. The way down looks ominous & is steep, but there are 'steps' of a fashion, dug into the rocks/ ground so the footing is pretty sure.

DS made friends with a beach another lounger who offered us a ride back in their 4 wheel drive. I wasn't too sure about this guy at 1st, and it was getting late, so we started the walk back with promises from John, that they'd pick us up on the road if they saw us going back.

Trouble is there are at least 3 different pathways out there, all intermingling with one another at different points.

We had taken the 'low road' nearest the water (and easiest to walk) on the way down, but the 4 wheel drivers prefer the higher road, so we started back on that one. It wasn't exactly easy walking, but not nearly as strenuous as Kalalau Trail on Napili Coast of Kauai, we'd find out the next week.

About 2/3rd's of the way back, we spotted their red SUV. John & Randy, it turns out are archeologists who barely make ends meet on the BI due to the high expenses, “but you don't live here to get rich - you do it for the lifestyle”. We found this to be a resounding theme as we queried various people living there.

We returned around 7:45 PM to the hotel, stopping to take a few pics of the Mac Nut groves on the way back, dirty and tired!!!

05/14/07: Slept alittle later today. Packed up and checked out of the Keahou Resort, with plans to meet at Matnikstym's house in Pahao.

Stopped again at our favorite fruit stand. Beth, who owns it with her DH had thought they'd have a new chicken sandwich offering today. They've recently added a small menu of good sandwiches to there smoothies and fruit and pastries. They also have salads and vegetarian options.

She is the picture of good health with her peaches and cream complextion and pretty blue eyes. Originally from CA, they have had the stand for about 3 yrs.

I have the avacado with extra lettuce ( out of sprouts today and didn't have time to make the chicken salad option due to increased business the previous day). DS has the turkey. Both are good!

We fight Noni to meet Dennis (just joking – but she is a fierce protector). I change into my swimsuit and we're off to use what little time we have to see as many sites as we can fit in.

We start at Star of the Sea Church--Kalapana Painted Church which was a Catholic church that was moved in 1990 to avoid being consumed by the lava flow.
It has a brightly painted, scenic interior.

Next, we stop at the place where the lava actually coverd the road. We walked from there to near the edge of the lava where it meets the ocean. It is strange to see the imprints of the breadfruits and coconuts premanently embeded into the lava.

From there, we turn and in the distance we can see the Steam from the Pu'u 'O'o Vent.

We went to an overlook at Kapahola Black Sand Beach, which is a new black sand beach and a clothing optional beach. Yes, some had opted out. :o. Then, an embarrassing thing happened. No, I didn't remove any clothing, nor did any in my party!

The path down from the road is steep and in my hast to take pictures while trying to 'catch up' with DS & Matnikstym, I fell, scraping my left knee a bit and jamming my left hip area, OUCH!

So I tell everyone I was running away from the nudie beach, being the genteel Southerner that I am and all.... I hope you'll notice that the picture of this area is in good taste.

I sucked it up and continued on, as I was not about to let alittle scrape or jammed hip put a damper on my personally escorted tour by Mr. Matnikstym! The best was yet to come!

Next, to the Tidepools. He had heard reports that an eagle ray had been hanging aroung lately.

Though we didn't see him, we did see some remarkably huge schools of fish – yellow & black butterflies (among others) of 50 or more hanging motionless just in front of me! These were the largest groups of fish we saw of the places we snorkeled or dived on both the Big Island and Kauai.

Also saw some purple coral that I've never seen before, and some I'd describe as Snow White's Dwarf's Hat's. Very interesting! Time's up. We have to go.

I gave Noni a big hug :^o (lie) and thanked Matnikstym for an exciting afternoon. He will join us later for dinner at Kilauea Lodge.

Checked in to the Kilauea Lodge Hale Maluna room “Paina” . They had Antelope on the menu but I couldn't bring myself to order it, knowing of Matnikstym's love of African animals.

We had Brie with apples and papaya salsa and bread as an appetizer. I had the Veal with tomatoes & onions and Asian rice & veggies of carrots & broccoli with a Gewürztraminer wine.

Matnikstym had the Beef rolls & red wine and DS had the Ahi with 2 different sauces served on the side, since they both sounded ( and were) good, along with a dark beer.

We chatted and M says I should check Scarlett's new posts when I get back, among other subjects. DS is quizzing him about life and making ends meet while living the good island life.

I find it interesting that he expresses some of the same opinions I have about certain posters.

We were all too stuffed to have dessert, and since everyone else had left, we decided we should too...I've never 'closed' a place in my life before! How fun today has been!!!

05/15/07: Breakfast is included with the Lodge fee. DS orders the scrambled eggs, bacon and whole wheat toast, while I get the cinnamon pancakes with coconut syrup and maple syrup. Actually, we share all.

I mostly go for the ½ of papaya – so delish! But the pancakes are good too!

We have online reservations with Blue Hawaiian for the Circle of Fire Volcano Tour from Hilo (ITH). We saved $$$ by booking this online, but it's still, not surprisingly, quite pricey.

We get weighed ( I'm surprised I've not gained weight – maybe a pound). Finally, we board.
I get the front seat next to the pilot and DS sits next to the window up front, as we had requested.
The Pilot, Chris asks where we are from, then he tells us he received his training near us at Ft. Rucker!

Neither of us felt any motion sickness ( we had taken dramamine just in case), and it was really fascinating! We flew over the Pu'u 'O'o Vent and Kilauea Crater.

There was a lot of sulphur pouring out of the vent and Kilauea, which the pilot was adept at avoiding.

We saw people doing the lava hike from the road covered in black lava and the place where the lava was flowing into the ocean, causing steam – though, in the daylight, the lava is extremely diffidult to see.

Also, he points out the area that 23 acres of lava field had collapsed into the ocean just a week or so ago.

He tells us that, over the years, 20 some odd people have lost their lives when hiking. They unknowing step on a lava tube which collapses and they are toast!

We had planned to do that very lava hike, but what the hay, we've seen it all now, from the sky!- - - - - You remember my jammed hip - - - somehow it's not much better, and DS agrees to take it easy this evening.

Lunch in Hilo @ one of Matnikstym's recommendations: Harrington's on the ice pond.
DS had the Mac nut encrusted Salmon ($18.95) with a beer while I had the Cajun Shrimp wrap ($10.95) with a Mai Tai followed by a cup of Kona coffee. Very good!

We could see small crabs on a rock beneath us and fish in the pond.
Some local school boys obviously took advantage of a good thing at lunch and came and jumped/dove into the pond from the street side fence.

The watier rolled his eyes and says it's 'much worse' in the summer - they fill the pond up. We found it quite entertaining. They were gone in 45 min. to an hr.

DS has a mission to buy the ugliest Hawaiian shirt he can find for a friend of his who is going to a mainland luau in honor of one of his previous professors ( and friend). We stop 1st at an outlet, but then spot the Goodwill store, and BINGO, we found it!!!

We go back to Kilaeau to the Thurston Lava Tubes and Kilauea Iki and the Crater Rim Drive. Stop at the Volcano House to shop and check the view, but, but this time, it has filled with clouds.

Dinner at the Kiawe Restaurant next to the volcano store - near the lodge. The Mai Tai's here are good, but pack a wallop, so watch out! I was really happy when I left there!

DS had a Pipeline Porter (limited release) and found it to be alittle bitter.
He ate the oven roasted swordfish with roasted asparsgus, while I had the clam chowder & eggplant napoleons. All of it was delicious!

......tomorrow we leave the BI for Kauai.......Continued.....((r))((r))((r))

Devonmcj: Yes, I'm very blessed, but Matnikstym will gladly escort you as well! All ya gotta do is ask!
Mahalo!

Shanghainese: No, I was so embarrassed I'm sure I didn't stay down but a second - besides he was way up there and I was down here (Did cha get that visual??;) )

Kauai Trip Report
Wednesday – Sunday, May 16-20th

05/16/07: 2 Breakfast's at Kilauea Lodge for DS and he brought me the papaya as requested – I had to pack for the Hellhole!
I had pineapple & Ka'u orange ( I must be missing something here, as it tasted, well, like any orange) left over from the fruitstand.

On to Hilo to catch the 10:50AM Aloha Flight to HNL and then, on to LIH, Kauai!!!!

We had a most enjoyable ride from HNL to LIH, as a sweet woman named Shauna sat beside me/us.

We got to talking, her first admiring my fav bracelet ( Cruzan). When we discovered she lives on Kauai, DS began firing the usual questions.

Turns out, she works for Princeville Stables and is one of their guides for the tour. She took a look at my printed itinerary and helped us combine some things into one day (so much for the lounging time, oh well!).
That opened up a day so we could do the horse tour. She would not be able to be our guide :( ( we did just love her – she was that kind of person ). And her son's name was the same as mine – thought that was a neat co-incidence!

She also gave us suggestions as to restaurants (like I needed more – I had a long list from Auntimaria, Kal and Iceeu2 , Bill and others already!) But she recommended some of the same ones, so we knew we could not go wrong with them.

Yes, the roosters and chickens lining the airport road was a welcomed, if not unexpected sight. We picked up our Sebring from Alamo – green with black top – just like the one we'd had on the BI.

Swan checked us into Islander On the Beach. Kal's room – he was generous enough to share the info with me but it's top secret, unless he gives the signal! It is right on the beach and has a lanai, frig, what passes for A/C and a regular size coffee pot & some dishes. I missed my pillows from home here (too hard), but otherwise it WAS A GREAT PLACE TO STAY! I am forever indebted to Kal & Mrs. Kal.

Pono Market : We were too late for the plate lunch, but ordered a hodge podge of dishes to feast on; Lomi Lomi, Poke, Scallop Salad & Greens with Chicken Salad, and some Custard bread and Chocolate bread for tomorrow's breakfast. Took it back and ate on Kal's lanai – a beautiful day, the surf just a few yards away.

Coconuts for dinner. This is the only place that we ate at that I was somewhat disappointed.
The hostess was poor – slouched, didn't care attitude and took way to long seating us told us 20 minutes but it was closer to an hour. Making the most of it, we had drinks.

One of the bartender's (who wasn't even ours) timed my rounding the corner so he could come and apologize for the long wait. (I thought that was nice of him – at least he noticed!)

Add to that the two cock roaches that were 'at home' in the Wahine room and I guess I was just non-plused. When, after the 2nd visit and they were still there, I mentioned it to one of the bus boys, who looked at me wide eyed “ Yeah, right, so you want me to go in there and kill 'em?” No DA!!

BUT we had a cute and very competent (female) bartender who DS enjoyed and the weather was perfect for the lanai seating (despite the hostess suggesting it looked like rain).

We got into a long conversation with our waitress, Chelsea, who seemed to have an eye for DS, about life on Kauai and making the transition. Her day job was as a Zip Line tour guide.

We both got fish dishes. I can't remember exactly what, though I have a picture of the dishes.
They were good, but not the best we'd had or would have.

05/17/07: Breakfast of eggs & mac nut pancakes for DS and a very generous fruit cup and Kona coffee for me at Ono Family Restaurant. ((Y)) ((Y))

Blue Hawaiian ECOHelicopter Tour : Saved over $30/pp by booking online. It was fantastic!!!
Saw the Napali Coast, all the beaches and lots of mountains and waterfalls as well as Waimea Canyon, to name just a few things. Chad was our pilot. We shared the trip with a couple of Writer/Photographers for a New Zealand travel magazine. Again, we were weighed in – I lost 4 # since the last weigh in on the BI! Yeah!!!

There was alittle snaf-foo here. We assumed, because the BI helicopter tour began at the airport, that this would be the case here as well. We didn't read the instructions, as we had on the BI.

As result, we drove to the airport, walked about ¼ mile and BACK (had to run) to our car, as we found out they required us to report in at the harbortown (I can't remember it's name)1st, then they shuttled us to the airport. We were just in the nick of time to make it, and it helped that we'd just done the BI tour two days prior, 'cause they didn't make us sit through the orientation again.
It was a good thing we had a cell phone!

After the flight, I got shave ice at the harbortown, got the DVD, then on to Waimeal Brewing Company at Waimea Plantaion Cottages.
This is a VERY nice place – the cottages & grounds, I mean. Though we enjoyed the brewery as well. DS got the Ono Sandwich and Black Sand Porter (Starrsville's recommendation) and I got the Kahlua Pork Wrap & H20.

We stocked up on water here for the drive/hike of Waimea Canyon. By the end of it, DS was wishing we'd brought extra snacks as well.

We missed the 1st turn, so went up Hwy 552 & came back down 560. Stopped at the overlooks and pull-outs for lot of pics. Then to the top to park at Kalalau Lookout and walk to Pu'u o Kila Lookout. Though hilly, the road was completely freshly paved and paint striped. They are still working on the restroom facility, so I guess that's why they have not re-opened the road as yet.

On the way up & down we saw a couple post graduate students catching bugs. They said they were looking for the state leaf hopper. When asked if they'd had any success, one proudly showed me a few tiny bugs in a very tiny vial.
I told them if they want to see bugs, they need to come to Alabama! They could fill up a pint jar in just a couple of hours! 'cept they wouldn't speak Hawaiian.

Jo-Jo's Shave Ice was closed, so we stopped in Waimea for a slice of Lilikoi and Mac Nut pies. We were starving and stopped at the first place we came to which was Grinds diner. I had the BBQ salad & DS had the Italian Chicken Salad with a side order of Mahi.
For a dump of a place, and VERY slow service ( only two tables occupied), they had good food. We bought some raisin oatmeal bars for breakfast the next day.
Leave the wine alone here.

05/18/07: Up at 6AM. Breakfast: Drank our Peaberry Kona coffee we'd bought from Greenwell Farms on BI (Da BEST!!) and ate our rolls from Pono Market and Raisin bar from Grind's.
Hit the road toward Princeville for our Princeville Stables Horse Tour.
It's just after the 27 mile marker on the left.

These people are all great! They know what they are doing, give clear instructions and we had a blast. The last and only time I've ever been on a horse was when I was 8-10 yrs. old and the thing ran away with me. Somehow, I wasn't really afraid.

In our group of 6 we had an 2 RN's, a RT a PT (me) and a military police person. All of them had more experience than us, but I think I was one of the most calm ones ( the MP was the most )

I rode Peek-a-Boo and DS got Dudley. We rode awhile, looked at the beautiful landscape and watered the horses after awhile. Then, tied up the horses and hiked to a beautiful private little waterfall where we picnicked on turkey pitas with sprouts, carrot sticks, orange slices and mac nut cookies & lemonade (we pretended Lemon-rita's – Hey, you're never too old to enjoy pretending once in awhile!) or H20.
We were warned to keep the chickens a goodly distance away, as they will even snatch your food away from you if you let them get too close!

Hiked some more – forded the top of the water fall, with a zip-line type cord attached for safety; Climbed straight up about 10 -15 ' of rocks with harness attached for safety, then on back to the horses. Along the way, Eileen, our very experienced haole paniolo guide pointed out various vegetation along the way – giving us a few interesting facts about them.

On the way back, we passed a landing strip for the rich & famous – I guess Julia and Pierce flew in here. In the distance, we could see the light house and the water.

Eileen pointed out on the way back that their ranch is being 'taken over' by a foreign invasive Polynesian Jet berry. It was all over the place. It gets stuck in the horses hooves, causing pain.
They have gotten the AG Dept. on it, but to date, there's nothing that can be done to eradicate it.
It's just another example of the well intentioned bringing in a plant that is not good for the island.

One little funny: Getting near the return point, when a helicopter flew over us. A few seconds later, Eileen (who has a dry sense of humor) was within ear shot of me and I heard a bird call of some sort. I asked her if she knew what kind of bird that was she just heard?
She thought for a moment and said....”a helicopter???” Well, guess you had to be there.

Well, on to Princeville. and stopped at the 1st shave ice place we came to (in front of Kayak Kauai). The MP and her friend were already there. Passionfruit, Coconut with Mac nut icecream on the bottom ($4). Serves 2 easily!

By this time, it's misty raining – in fact, it began just as we were dismounting the horses. But, not too bad kinda off & on.

Snorkeled Ke'e . Saw lots of fishes and coral. DS was wiped, so he napped while I snorkeled. When I returned, he went out. Though I had a dry box, it was not large enough for both our wallets and my glasses, & his cell phone, so I was glad it worked this way.

It began to get really cloudy/rainy so we left. Drove for a look-see at a cave on the road & Hanalei Bay Pier & Black Pot Beach but by that time it was raining pretty steadily, so not exactly the best time for beach going.

I had to talk DS into going to the Princeville Resort as he was still pretty wiped – but I at least wanted to see it if not eat dinner there. (I had such fun running that young man 'til his tongue was hanging out – me the 'old lady') We had no reservations but knew we could have a drink at the bar in any event.

The valet parking is free. The place pretty ostentasious. Reminded us of Las Vegas, which is not a fav of DS, but I enjoy seeing such extravagance on occasion.

We checked out the Hanalei Cafe menu – what luck! It was the Friday night Seafood Buffet I'd read so much about! $65 + drinks (Ouch!). DS also hates buffets, but he did agree to this one. We didn't have reservations, just took a chance and, in 15 – 20 minutes, we were seated. We didn't get outside seating, but not a problem as the glass walls allow viewing of 'Bali Hai' (an incorrect term, aunti recently informed us of, but none the less beautiful!)

I completely avoided the bread & salad, but tried to taste most everything else.
Whoa Nellie! I just couldn't get around to everything! It was just too much! In addition to all manner of seafood, there was Prime Rib and some other meats and I think over a dozen desserts as well as a chocolate fountain!

Mai Tai was good. DS had his dark beer. I'm not sure if this is where he had the coconut beer or if that was at Dolphins the next night, but he looked all over for some to ship home, with no luck.

As we were leaving, DS noticed the sun was about to set, so we went out on the lanai in front of the bar. There was quite a crowd out there watching. Got some gorgeous shots & looked close, but no one saw the green flash.
Scanned a couple of their shops, then called for the convertible ( I like saying that :) ).

Stopped briefly on the way back at Safeway (looking for that coconut beer – did find the Huli Huli sauce DS's friend had requested & H20 for the next day - and ABC store for some POG & rum.

05/19/07: A mission of mine this vacation was to try to find someone to lengthen an unusual Tahitian style fish hook necklace I had bought on Maui 2 years ago for DS #1.

I had asked all over as we went along on this trip, but no'takers' of the craftsmen (women) we'd come across thus far. Lori – the Mgr. At Princeville Stables had taken it home to see if her DH could/would do it, and we'd agreed I'd pick it up today on the way to do the Kalalau Trail hike.
They open at 7AM. No luck. He is involved in a huge project of carving a dead tree in front of a (rich) woman's home.
...On to the trail!

Kalalau Trail was everything you all had said it would be! DS was again saying he was 'tired' we'd been pushing it pretty much the whole vacation – “Do we really want to hike 2 miles this morning?” I used my therapist's approach - which had already worked a time or two before on this trip - and told him we'd do whatever he felt he could do. Start with 100-200 yards and if you want to turn around, we will.
Of course, once he got started, there was no turning back ( his choice :) ).

The trail is difficult, but at least it was NOT muddy for us – in spite of the fact that it had rained the previous night – must not have accumulated much.

We walked all the way to the beach and back. We were pretty proud of ourselves and were almost back to the start, but then, there she was. About 500 yards into the hike up, was a lady – she had to be at least 75 yrs. on a crutch – her grayed haired little husband helping her climb the rocks!!!

Got cleaned up in the park's facilities, then, on to Princeville shopping area (name??) DS ran off to the rest room before I could even get out of the car, so I went shopping.

I finally found a craftsman for the necklace! I bought a beautiful Ni'ihau necklace and set of earrings from Steve, and he thought I was heavenly guided to him to fix the necklace---''Cause that's what I do!!!” He exclaimed. Maybe so.
Anyway, I've trusted him to send it back to me. He surely seemed honest and trustworthy, so we'll see. Says I should have in in about 3 weeks. Yay!!!!!

I had wanted to get to the Hawaiian Trading Post the day we did Waimea, but it was too late by the time we returned and I was afraid we might not make it back....we did the last day, but it was Sunday, and they were closed, so good thing I got the Ni'ihau set when I could!

When I came out of the shop (Steve likes to talk as much as I do), DS was already finishing up his Mac Nut crusted Ahi & veggie meal at the Polynesian Cafe'. Though I was hungry, I'd rather shop than eat, so that was OK.

By this time, DS was really fatigued. He had set himself up with reservations for surf lessons for 2PM ( I knew better) and Kayak Kauai was going to charge $50 whether or not he actually got the lesson, so I used my previous ploy.

Just go, listen and if you don't feel like it, say no, I'm outta here.
Of course, by the time he met Justin, the 17 yr. old instructor, he was hooked. They had to call all over to find enough surf to learn on, but decided on Rock Quarry.
And, before too long, DS had his certificate!

By this time, I'm famished. The trail mix I'd subsisted on until now was long gone. We went to Dolphins.
It was a little early – as they were not serving dinner until 5:30PM and it was about quarter 'til. So I ordered a couple of appy's and a Mai Tai ( I DO love a good Mai Tai!) on the lanai.

Though the stuffed mushroom's were a little burned, the service slow, the ceviche was plentious and delicious and the Mai Tai was the BEST I've had this trip!!! DS just had his dark beer, as he wanted to eat later.

Went back to the Princeville shopping area, but found most stores closing or closed. We did make it into one where I finally found the Lilikoi Butter I'd been searching for for souvenirs for friends – it would make a nice accompaniment to the packs of Kona Coffee.

Well, Stella, the shopkeeper was a friendly sort. She was just finishing up with some large gentleman customer who was bragging on his friendship with her . When I complimented his lei, he said Stella leied him every year – that it lasted about a year. I (having had the previous mai tai at Dolphin's), remarked with a smile, “Well, I guess that means you won't have to get leied anytime soon!” Which brought a chuckle from all around and a pretty lady came up, wearing another beautiful lei – this one of multi colored plumeria.

Come to find out, she was an author doing a book signing for the mystery Death Game – her first. They were serving champagne (which I'd initially missed, so they brought me some as I talked with the author). She was a retired dentist from CA having lived on the island only about 3 years. I bought a copy, but haven't had time to read it as yet.

Having been asked what all we'd done, I was reciting a few things when Stella says “ Well, did you see Julia Roberts?!” - We hadn't – but She had. She had been there just a couple hours prior and was 'very pregnant' per Stella.

Since all the shops seemed to be closing, we went back up to Dolphin'ss for dinner. Indoor seating this time. Better service and delicious food and drink! I had the Haole chicken and DS had the -big surprise here ;) Ahi - $28.50 for the Ahi and $18.95 for the chicken raised on-island. The Mango marguarita was really tasty!

Back to the IBR for some shut eye before our last day on-island. :(

05/20/07: Up early again 6AM – gotta make it to the Kipu ATV TOUR by 7AM but we're dragging and arrive about 20 minutes late. It's really hard to 'rush' on island, but I was trying my darn-dest!

Brian was our guide - a youngish hippie type islander. He was a good instructor and we had a blast.
Though my DH has a 4 wheeler and has had for many years, I've never really driven it, and only rode double a time or two.
We each had our own and rode down some really treaherous looking stretches – but it was all fun!

We came to an area where a scene from Indiana Jones was shot. It was the scene where he slides down a hill and swings out over and into a river to get away from da bad guys. You could see several black bass in there.
We got to swing, not on the original rope , due to it's age but on one right beside it. We didn't drop into the water, just back onto the land. I was hesitant for just a minute, but gave it a shot and I did it!!!

There were other movie scenes shot around here 'Outbreak' and 'Mighty Joe Young' to name a few.

On the way back we passed a Mongolian Goose, some Nene's and a Hawaiian Cardinal who posed for a photo Op – our male Cardinals are solid red all over, but their's are red headed with a gray body and a white collar – much like a woodpecker in color.

Then, Brian stopped to feed the 'wild pigs & wild peacocks' – not much wild to them except they are allowed to roam anywhere they want. He kept insisting they were wild, but anything that comes running to feed because it hears the ATV coming is not my definition of 'wild'.
One of the peacock's gave me a really good full strut picture.

Once we were all 'pigged out' (his joke not mine), we were on our way back. A section of the road here was lined with Cook's trees (Norfolk Island Pines) that were so huge they reminded me of our Live Oaks that line some of our streets in the Deep South. These trees were brought in centuries ago to be used for ship's masts.

After the ATV ride, we drove back down to Hanapepe to the Red Dirt Factory for some gifts. We tried Hawaiian Trading Company, but it was closed.

We returned back to the room and I walked over to the Coconut Marketplace to shop a little and got some Mahi Mahi wraps from a little stand in the courtyard there. I brought them back to eat on the beach in front of the room – they were quite good!
The shave ice I saw other's getting from the same place were huge and were also said to be good.

I mixed up our POG/rum drinks and they went down easy too! The wind had picked up significantly today, making the surf kick up. It was Sunday and people were everywhere, when there had been few during the week.

The main thing I went to shop for was a battery operated crower. Does anyone else have one??? I love it!

We enjoyed seeing some wind surfer's right in front of our lounge chairs. Looked to be a father & son team close by and some other's further off.

Just as I was prying myself out of the chaise lounge to get myself in gear to pack, a couple walking by asked if I'd seen the Monk Seal just down the beach? I had not, so DS & I went down and snapped a couple pics of the sandy faced, resting seal.

We were maybe 30 minutes later than stated returning the car, but had also picked it up a few minutes later initially. In the haste to get to the airport, I forgot to remind DS to stop and 'top off' the gas tank. Actually, I had reminded him twice that day, but forgot to do it just prior to the return. I'd had a station all picked out $3.37/gal. The cheapest we'd seen and it was on the left just before the last right turn to the airport. We'd seen as much as $3.57 and mostly $3.51.

We hadn't even gotten out of the car when two obviously uptight men (dad & son) came up to us and asked if we were returning the convertible and was anything wrong with it? We were not expecting customers to be approaching us, but I thought DS got it right when he replied, “It drove fine, just burst into flames a few times!”

Anyway, they didn't charge anything extra for being an 1/8th of a tank low nor the 30 minutes late. I was surprised about this, given what I've heard and read & experienced in the past about car rentals really taking for all you've got! So it was $173 and some change for the 5 days (with $25 ET coupon and Sam's Club extra driver free).

We arrive at the BUSY airport. Patience required. Go back through the Agricultural Line for clearance, then line after line. I'm keeping my cool, as I've just had the trip of a lifetime.

The license/ticket screener scrutinizes my E-ticket-----” Are your middle initials 'MR?' he inquires??---NO, The ticket was issued to MR olesouthernbelle (instead of MRS.) and he is the 1st to catch it or care. It alarmed me until I saw him half smile, and was letting me pass, so I told him my DH used to call me 'General' so maybe that was why --- he said that could do it and laughed!

Well, I had on two watches, my regular metal one with AL time on it and my cheapo dive watch that was mostly rubber or plastic with HI time. With all the distraction of the crowd, I guess I was thinking the plastic wouldn't set off the alarm, so I didn't remove that one. Also, had on my zip off hiking shorts with several pockets which I had worn on the flight over.

I had forgotten a foil pouch inside one of the pockets.

When I was told to go through the 2nd time and did NOT CLEAR, suddenly, a TSA Officer came over telling me “Ma'am, step over here!” Do NOT have contact with any of your personal belongings or your travel party or YOU WILL BE ARRESTED!!! Now, that kinda got my attention! I never realized there was a limit of one non-buzzing times you could go through there without being searched big time!

DS seemed to be unaware his dear 'ole Mom was about to be arrested, so I asked nervously if I could let him know. “Yes – but do not have ANY physical contact with him or you BOTH will be arrested!
DS was totally unconcerned mom was possibly going to jail. His response was “ Well, hey, I'm gonna go find something to eat and I'll meet ya at the gate!”

He disappeared as this in your face TSA officer was constantly informing me of my rights and that this area buzzed with the wand “Do you have anything in there?!” Now turn your waistband out....now, I've got to pat this area.” I

I'm really not exaggerating, but I wasn't really too nervous either, as I know I'm a straight up kind of person and if she wants to arrest me for drinking a Mai Tai or jay walking, that was going to be about the limit of what I'd done wrong on HI.

My biggest concern was missing my flight, as the lines were long everywhere, so I reassured her: “Lady, I'm 55 years old, I'm a PT and the mom of two grown boys, so I'm not nearly as modest or shy as I once was. You do whatever you gotta do.”
I was finally cleared and made it on the long flight home. There was a vacant seat between us on that flight, that suddenly got occupied by a Continental employee right before take off. I've probably watched too many movies, but I kinda wonder if he wasn't there for my benefit (meaning I was still a suspect).

After getting back to MOB, you guessed it, we stood there until all the luggage was gone. Ours was not among them – UGH! I had been traveling for many hours (about 13 by that time) and I was tired. Had to walk to the opposite end of the airport ( it's not a large one, but STILL) back to the Continental counter to inquire as to the luggage. The guy checked in the back, and low and behold, it was there!!!...So why didn't they throw it onto the baggage claim??? He couldn't tell me. I then had to walk BACK to the other end of the AP to get a luggage cart, and come back for the luggage. Double UGHHH and welcome back to the mainland, OSB!

Souvenirs: Greenwell Farms Kona Coffee, Lilikoi butter, red dirt shirts & hat & earrings, jewelry [koa wood necklace and a couple of koa wood bracelets], Ni'ihau necklace and earrings, chocolate covered coffee beans, HI islands seasoning, Huli Huli Sauce, Crowing Rooster, Coconut-Mango Soap, book: Death Game by Cheryl Swanson, VNP bookmarks and VNP booklet, Vinyl maps of each Island with points of interest marked.