NeoPatrick's month in Manhattan
 

Some of you are aware that I am currently in New York City for a month – as a stopover on our way to Europe. My partner has Alzheimer’s, so our travel style is altered a bit from what it has always been in the past, but he LOVES to travel and seems to do even better when we’re traveling than when he is at home in familiar surroundings (contrary to what all the experts say).

In any case here is WEEK ONE:

We flew from Miami to LaGuardia on Sunday, May 13, going first class on American as part of our FF Business Class to Europe freebie flight. The flight was nice – how could it not be in First Class? A light lunch was served. Arrival at LaGuardia was smooth and we got our luggage quicker than usual. We got an “instant” taxi right outside luggage pickup for American, and just 25 or 30 minutes later we arrived at 8th Avenue and West 50th at the apartment we are renting for a month. Taxi fare – just $27 plus $5 tip. I’ve decided Sunday afternoon is the BEST time to fly into New York as everything was so easy and there was so little traffic.

The owner of the apartment had stepped out (well, we did arrive about 45 minutes earlier than we had anticipated), but he alerted the concierge to let us into the apartment and we were already unpacked and half settled when he arrived. He showed us the electronics – a bank of stereo, TV, DVD, Fax, Printer, complete set up computer (but he helped me hook up my laptop instead, and multi phone lines with unlimited free calls in the US or Canada. We are on the 33rd floor with spectacular views to the north and west, and from the sort of bay in the living room, we can look east to Radio City Music Hall. The apartment is new, clean, and very comfortable, furnished in just so-so Ikea and similar furnishings. The kitchen has everything – right down to an espresso maker – none of which we’ll use, probably.

Sunday night’s dinner (this was Mother’s Day) was booked at our old favorite, Roberto Passon, just a block away and it didn’t disappoint. It was packed due to the crowd of Mom’s and kids, but service held up and the food was great as always.

At home, I am used to getting Lee up at about 8 AM, and then he spends two and a half to three hours showering, shaving, and obsessing about things like which was items on his vanity are facing, and polishing, then repolishing the shower when he gets out of it. So I was surprised to wake up at 7 AM to the sound of running water. Lee was in the shower. By 7:45 he was shaved, dressed, and anxious to go to breakfast. See what I mean about how he travels better? Although we plan to mainly eat breakfast in, we hadn’t yet been to the market (there is a great Food Emporium right in our building below us, and I love the Amish Market which is a block away on 9th). But this morning we went up the street to the simple Cosmic Diner, for standard basic breakfast – cheap and good. When I ordered my eggs and toast and the waitress asked “what kinda meat do you want with that?” and I said “none” she replied “why not?” Ah yes, we’re back in New York!

Our first order of business was to head to South Ferry then walk to the MTA office to get Lee’s senior reduced fare card. This is free to anyone over 65. I bought a one month unlimited MTA pass for $76. His would be $38. I expected this would be a zoo and we would be there for hours in lines. WRONG! Although we had taken a passport style photo for them to use, they insisted on taking another one as it would be easier to imprint on his card. We were there about 15 minutes total and left with his pass. The only “bad” part was the clerk asking if I wanted one too, and I informed her it would be 5 years before I could come back to get one – to which she quickly (but not quickly enough) replied “not that you look old enough to get one”. We walked the Wall Street area, visiting Trinity Church and the fascinating cemetery for the first time ever. We found ourselves drawn to Ground Zero, and walked around a bit. We’ve been there several times, but it still overwhelms one with emotion, just being there by that giant hole in the ground.

Lunch was inside the huge and antique basement safe deposit vault at Bobby Van’s Grill, just opposite the New York Stock Exhange. Wonderful hamburger for Lee, and an even better sliced steak open faced sandwich for me. I asked for “no fries, but a side of sautéed spinach” and got a huge mount of the wonderful garlicky stuff, and was surprised there was no charge to do so.

We were going to take the subway back to midtown from South Ferry, but it was a beautiful day and there we were, so we hopped onto the Staten Island Ferry instead, to do the round trip past the Statue of Liberty. After returning, we headed back to the apartment.

At 6 PM we met Fodorite Mclaurie and a friend at the bar at Abbocato in the Blakely Hotel. We had discovered online we both had tickets to City Center tonight for the Encores production of Stairway to Paradise, right across the street. The show was wonderful – how could it not be, starring Kristen Chenoweth? After the show, we couldn’t find Mclaurie, but knew they were headed back to Long Island, so we went off to have a late dinner at Matt’s Grill, a “neighborhood” place on 8th that was highly recommended. What a disappointment. I had a chicken Caesar and I think the sliced chicken breast had been cooked for a few hours about a week before – almost too dried out to eat. Lee had a pasta that was beyond bland. Oh well, we’re determined to make this our only “bad” meal of the trip – how’s that for optimism?

Tuesday morning we walked to the special Monet exhibition at the Wildenstein Gallery at 64th and Madison. Loved the small but wonderful collection – about half from private collections, never or rarely seen before. Again a beautiful day, so we hopped on a subway and went to Coney Island just to sit outside on the boardwalk and eat Nathan chili dogs, fries, and lemonade. Of course, not much is open there before Memorial Day, but it was a beautiful day to walk along the beach – reaching 85 degrees today!!

Dinner on Tuesday was at Nero in the Meatpacking district. We loved this little place – brick walls, rustic wood tables, and bare lightbulbs hanging over the tables. Super food, and the bartender gained points by serving my usual dry Robroy with onions instead of a twist – a first ever for me, and believe me I’ve had dry Robroy’s everywhere!

Wednesday morning was a nice midtown walk after breakfast, including stopping to get super shoeshines at Eddy’s in the basement of Rock Center – the best shoeshines. Lunch at the little Daniela Taverna on 8th and 45th, which was very nice – an old favorite for really inexpensive but good Italian food. We then saw the matinee of A Year of Magical Thinking – the one woman interpretation of the book by Vanessa Redgrave. What an actress. I was transfixed by her every word and even more by every tiny gesture. When she holds out her arm to show the bracelet she bought her daughter before she died, a little twist of her arm breaks your heart. She is amazing. But my biggest job was to nudge Lee whenever he started to snore. A little too ethereal and not enough action?
A huge storm came up just after we got out of the show and we raced to the apartment, just making it before the sky opened up.

It was still raining this evening when we went to Bistecca Fiorentina on 46th. The plan was to get their “famous” Florentine steaks, but they had a special of roasted baby goat which I couldn’t pass up, and Lee opted for a spinach ravioli with tons of crabmeat on top. When they brought the dessert tray and placed it on the table, Lee could not comprehend that he had to choose just ONE. He kept asking for a fork so he could dig in – and he wasn’t kidding, but we finally picked out the cheesecake and he scarfed it down.

Thursday, we took a morning walk and got some future theatre tickets, and then headed out to the Bronx Zoo (free in May with a Bank of America card). We had light lunch there first, and were a bit frightened by the MOBS of school kids, but by 1 PM they started clearing out and by 2 or so they were all gone and the zoo was delightfully quiet.
What a spread out zoo. What it lacks in quantity and variety of animals, it makes up for in the huge open cageless settings. The monorail through the woods and the Gorilla rainforest both cost extra, but are clearly the highlights of the entire zoo.

When the zoo closed at 5, we walked the 10 or 15 minutes to Arthur Avenue (the Little Italy of the Bronx). Had a great dinner at Mario’s. I opted for the Zuppa di Pesce, clams, scallops, shrimp, mussels, calamari, and who knows what else in a spicy and garlicky red sauce over linguini. Lee ordered a wonderful veal saltimbocca with a side of spaghetti. The waiter insisted we had ordered his two favorites. It was a great meal and we drank a fantastic bottle of a “young Super Tuscan” at a bargain price of $21. Again we had a repeat of Lee wanting the entire dessert tray, but he finally agreed to have just one – cheesecake again.

Friday morning was COLD. I think it was 42 when we got up. Took the subway to the New York Historic Society for an exhibit of Tiffany lamps and shades and some other glass all by a female Tiffany designer. Had never been there before, and we also enjoyed the Audubon exhibit – lots of original drawings and paintings of birds.

We had a cheap and good lunch at Ollie’s Noodle House on Broadway near Lincoln Center, then saw the French movie, The Valet, across from Lincoln Center. This evening we saw a fun new play called West Moon Street which is done in the style and dress of an Oscar Wilde comedy. Very good cast. Dinner followed at the Red Cat, 10th and 23rd. This is a great place and an old favorite we haven’t been to in ages, but was close to our play.

Saturday was still cold, and now we had rain off and on to add to it. We had lunch at Danny Meyer’s Blue Smoke – really great barbeque (and tremendous Applewood smoked half chicken). We got caught up afterwards at Union Square in the “dance” parade, apparently a protest of the anti-dance laws for cabarets in the city. There were all kinds of dancers – Belly, tap, step-dancers, tango, break – you name it. At 3 we saw a one man play called American Fiesta. A man becomes obsessed with buying Fiesta Ware on Ebay and elsewhere – which is sort of inspired by his parent’s unwillingness to accept his impending gay marriage in Canada.

Tonight we had dinner at Kellari Taverna on 44th near 5th. This place was wonderful. I love eating dinner at 8:30 in the theatre district when all the pre-theatre people have gone. We had wonderful service and two fish dishes that bordered on extraordinary. We’ll be back.

That wraps up the first week. More to come.

Patrick, sounds like you're having a great time.
I hope you and Lee have a great time traveling this summer.
Looking forward to reading more chapters.

I really enjoyed your report patrick!! It makes me want to hop the next flight up to NYC...

Thanks and look forward to the next report!!!

I'm not sure which is better-your writing style or your amazing itineraries and choices. Looking forward to your next installment.

Ouch. I just realized that if you compose on Word and then paste and copy, you can't edit your posts here. So hope you all get through the couple of typos.

Patrick;

I am so enjoying your NY report. Seem's as though you've been there more than once;) I am going to try some of the restaurants you have told us about. But, I'll have to pass on the baby goat, it's all greek to me.

Can't wait till the next post.

Theresa in Detroit.

Your trip sounds amazing, it makes me want to be in New York right now (iffy weather and all!)

Thank you so much for this - I'm saving all the restaurant suggestions:)

Glad that you and Lee are having such a good time, wonderful that he still enjoys travel as I realize that it has been a big part of your lives. Your first week sounds great and I'm looking forward to reading more. I've made note of your restaurant selections, thanks for the details!

Enjoy week #2!

mariasch, said it nicely! What a delight this report is. Waiting for more, Patrick.

Glad you are enjoying your stay but I have a feeling you enjoy most palces you visit.

It sounds like you're both having a great time. I can't believe that Lee really qualifies for that senior reduced fare card!

God love you...some of us know the horror of having to fend for oneself or being institutionalized.

BUT...do all you can to keep that "caregiver burnout" at bay, OK?

Hi Patrick. Glad to hear that you and Lee are having a great time in New York and glad to hear that Lee still loves to travel. I am with Barbara-can't believe Lee qualifies for the senior discount!!

Have a wonderful time. I am looking forward to your next post. I will be in NYC in August so will be interested in the shows you recommend.

LOL, Lee reminds me of one of my brothers. We're from a military family so it's amazing that any of us takes that much timwe getting ready!
Sounds like you are having a great time. My daughter and I decided we are going to NYC for a week in the fall of 2009. I wish it was sooner!

Patrick,

Thanks so much for your report. Spending a month in NYC is on my list of things to do so I am very envious. Please continue to keep us posted.

Kathy in Tennessee

Welcome to NY (again) Patrick! After all the times you've mentioned Roberto Passon, I am *really* going to have to try it! Just had a look at Citysearch... are there really such issues with service?

I too, envy your "month in Manhattan" Patrick. My friend lives one block up from where you are staying so I am very familiar with the area. So many restaurants...so little time. Enjoy!

Patrick,
Lee is SO blessed to have you in his life. I teared up (must be emotional this morning!) reading your trip report. Enjoy your stay and I look forward to reading more.

I'm glad to see that you are making the most of it!

Im bookmarking for the next trip to the city. Thanks so much for sharing, Patrick!

Sure, the theater and the restaurants are great, but what really makes New York fun are the things like the dance parade you stumbled into. All this and the Staten Island Ferry, the Bronx Zoo and Coney Island in one week! Let the good times roll.

SO glad to see this up today !

I love it when I hear things like "contrary to what the experts say" regarding caring for a loved one - - no one, not even the experts, knows exactly what will and won't work for each person b/c each person is different and unique and when a loved one is lucky enough to have a caretaker like you, no one can read that loved one better or give better care - you have no idea how many people I see in my work who follow many of the generalizations and categorizations of people with certain issues
b/c the 'experts think' and never even try - say traveling, eating out, vacations, going to a new place...... I'm so glad you are both enjoying it !

You know how much I love reading your adventures and suggestions -
of course, I am, as you can imagine, drooling that you were at Roberto Passon, I can taste my favorite mouth watering, wafer thin veal as I type this....

I will likely print out your entire month in NYC for my folders! - I am helping my daughter move into her new apt late May and maybe we can try some new restaurants from your list - keep 'em coming!
Or maybe if you are still there I can have the pleasure of meeting you for a cup of coffee -

Great report, I am envious that you can spend one month in New York City, something I am hoping to do someday when I retire.

I had to chuckle when you described Lee having to choose just one dessert. Before my mom went into a long term care nursing facility for Alzheimer's, we used to take her out to some of her favorite restaurants. One night we ordered some beautiful, fresh sashimi as an appetizer, a favorite of hers, served family style. The waiter placed it down and I turned to my wife to ask her a question about the menu. When I turned back, the plate was empty and my mom was sitting there with the most angelic smile you can imagine. Everyone laughed, no way we could get angry about that.

Enjoy the rest of your visit.

Patrick,
What a wonderful report. I'm so glad you and Lee are enjoying your stay so far.
I agree, Lee is so lucky to have such a caring, patient partner.
I really don't think there's anything wrong with wanting the entire dessert tray. Isn't that normal!!??

I am truly enjoying your report, Patrick :)

Thank you, Patrick, for sharing your adventures with us. I'm so glad you & Lee are having a wonderful trip. Looking forward to the next installment ... :-)

Wow. Thanks for all the comments. We had a busy day (but you'll have to wait till next week to hear about it). To those who have met Lee and are surprised he qualifies for a 65 year old discount -- he's qualified for almost 12 years now, but we've never bothered to get one before in NYC.
And escargot, you are so right about ignoring the "experts". I went to only one support group meeting and one thing everyone was firm about -- never give them any choices as it will frustrate them. Nonsense. Lee sometimes needs a little nudging to make up his mind, but I believe it's very good for him to still decide which entree he wants or what he wants to do today. He doesn't seem to get frustrated or angry at anything -- and for that I'm extremely lucky and thankful.

Escargot, let me know if you have some free time and sure, we'll do coffee.
My email is patash2atearthlinkdotnet -- you know what to do with that.

Hi, Patrick! Thx for Week One. Happy to hear that you & Lee are having a great time. Looking fwd to your Week Two report!

What a pleasure to read! I wish you both a grand time together. Looks like you are in for some great weather. :)

Enjoy!

NeoPatrick: How lovely to come home from work and find you have started your NYC trip report.

The next time we visit our son and he says what would you like to do this time - I'll say 'hop on a subway to Coney Island, sit outside and eat a Nathan chili dog, fries and drink lemonade'. Can not wait.

My mum who lives in the UK is in the early stages of Alzheimer's so very much relate to what you are sharing about Lee. I am so glad you are both having a wonderful time.

Take care and thank you for sharing all the details.

Sandy

Neo, I think there should be a remake of the film It's A Wonderful Life starring you and Lee--you both are an inspiration to me.

As an aside, I'm currently reading an interesting book entitled, "Mindfulness" that speaks to the mind of the elderly and how, when given choices to make for themselves, as opposed to having everything done and decided for them, they live longer, healthier lives. While the book does not reference alzheimer's your assesment of Lee's behaviour is in line with everything I've read.

I look forward to reading more about your trip(s!). :-)

"he LOVES to travel and seems to do even better when we’re traveling" I cannot help but think that the travelling you two are doing will in some way alleviate the Alzheimers Lee is experiencing. Keeping an active mind and body must surely help. I wish you both a wonderful trip and look forward to hearing more.

The trip sounds wonderful so far. Best to you and Lee - and kudos for spending the money to take this dream trip!

Great report. Can't wait to hear about the French onion soup and crepes. :)

What a wondrful active trip. It's been so long since I've been in Manhattan, you make me miss it. Happy all is going well.

Hello Patrick, I just came on to Fodor's tonight and what a joy to read your report of your and Lee's first week in NYC. I love the fact that dear Lee wants all of the desserts, lol, smart fellow our Lee. Thank you for sharing your delightful and fun week with us..your post was such a joy to read. I send a hug to you and to dear Lee.

Lovely Trip Report..
It's wonderful to hear about you and your partner, Lee's adventures in NYC..
Can't wait for Europe.

Best to you Patrick!

Great report and thanks so much for sharing!

Blue Smoke is one of my marathon favorites because it is right behind the Park South where I stay.

Wonderful as usual Patrick. So looking forward to next week.

Thanks for the report Patrick. Love to hear your many insights.